It shouldn't even be legal to sell a grinder with stamped steel washers. Considering that balance issues also create a major safety hazard. Those stamped steel washers should have been outlawed.
A balance washer can improve wheel imbalance. Make the washer about 3mm thick, and 70-80mm in diameter. Drill the shaft hole 1-2mm off center. Mark the wheel and washer. Try the washer rotated in various directions until the imbalance is gone.
Better make two washers (with centered shaft holes), clamp them together, (add index marks), drill multiple holes along 180 degrees of each washer's outer circumference. This way, rotating the washers relative to each other, it's possible to adjust the amount of weight correction from zero (index marks 180 degrees to each other) to the total weight of material drilled out from the lightening holes (index marks aligned).
I just learned about two years of metalwork class in one video. I am reasonably smart, done a bit of metalwork, and know a few things. Its been a long while since I sat down and watched a video that school me. Excellent work.
@@xvbvcv A ty myślisz, że ta szlifierka, choć jest obrandowana jako niemiecka firma, to skąd jest? Wbij sobie do głowy, że większość silników elektrycznych na świecie ma gdzieś we wnętrzu chińskie krzaki... I tak jak kiedyś w Europie, tak i w obecnie w Chinach: są marki badziewne, za grosze i są marki bardzo dobre za niewiele większe pieniądze. Cud? Nie, prawdziwie wolna konkurencja. Więc kupuj szwabskiego Boscha z chińskim silnikiem i pchaj szwabom kasiorę w dupy... Ja kupię za trzecią cześć ceny chiński oryginał!!! :))))
Damn, I love the Russians! Every technical detail and sheer artistry of wheel balancing covered. Like everything they do, it is first class. Art, Mathematics, Physics, Space Flights, Lacquer Paintings of Fedoskina and Palekh, the Hermitage treasures, the Kremlin treasures, Rostov Finift, their gymnasts, the Bolshoi Ballet, Chekov, Pushkin, Dostoyevsky, the music of Prokofiev, Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninoff ... such an incredible drive for excellence. Keep up the good work. Subscribed. Greetings from California! Dying to visit Moskva and Sankt Peterburg again. Thank you! Большое спасибо!
Пару лет назад проделывал практически всю описанную работу. В качестве балансировочного груза я использовал термоклей, нагревал камень феном и пропитывал боковую поверхность. В любом случае при работе нужно обезопасить себя от искр и вероятного отрыва балансировочного груза. Радиальное биение убирал закрепленной "болгаркой" с установленным алмазным диском. Подводил этот диск к точильному камню и медленно вращая камень рукой убирал его радиальное биение. Пыли много - нужно использовать маску, желательно и пылесос.
Thank you very much for this video. I will have to try this out on my bench grinder, which has really bad vibration, like yours at the beginning! I was not aware of the reasons for the vibrations and how it can be fixed. I thought it was just a „not so good quality machine“ and I had to live with it. You have shown that this is not the case and how it can be improved a lot. 👍
Excellent video! The epoxy wire on the side of the wheel is a genius solution! Although Americans are very afraid of modifying tools, and they get nervous about making their own modifications that require a wildly unique solution. A couple notes: 1.) The inside flange washer must be the same size as the outside flange washer, or at least very close in O.D. diameter, otherwise you risk cracking the grinding wheel. 2.) Use a block of wood and tap around the periphery very gently to align and center the grinding wheel, while it's only hand tight, before torquing down the arbor nuts. 3.) A 1/4" impact driver can easily tighten the grinding nuts on the bench grinder threaded arbor, one click or two clicks of your battery powered screw impact driver, or as close to 10 ft lbs of torque (as recommended by Norton official chart for 1/2" diameter thread) or 15 ft lbs for 5/8" diameter shaft. Hold the opposite side shaft, not the grinding wheels, when tightening, to maintain alignment. 4.) If your paper discs are not in good condition, then make new ones, or throw the whole grinding wheel away. 6.) There is a balancing system available in the U.S., but it's $95 per side, which apparently removes 100% of the vibration, and it's called "Oneway 2272" grinding wheel alignment system. 7.) People do say that the easiest way to balance a bench grinder is merely to tighten one side, then dress that side with your diamond dresser, then on the opposite side, mount, and then dismount and re-mount the grinding wheel over and over, turning it in small increments. Test, and repeat, until smooth. This process apparently removes about 90% of the vibration.
Thank you for such valuable advice! 👍 Regarding point 7, my remark. After leveling only with a diamond pencil, vibration will appear when the rotation slows down. The reason is the rotation of the disk around the center of gravity, which does not coincide with the geometric center. The solution for this method is to screw the sharpener to a hard steel table or a hard steel stand screwed into the wall. As a last resort, put the sharpener on a hard stone floor, step on the body with your foot with all your weight and level it with a diamond in this position. 😃 And I also just thought that perhaps you can print a balancing washer on a 3D printer. You just need to make the outer sides thicker so that the counterweights with centrifugal force do not tear the washer.
I turned an aluminium bush as you recommend and it works perfectly. The hole bored accurately and a very close fit on the spindle and the bush shoulder is turned perfectly true to the the hole. The 31.75mm for the grind wheel is turned very slightly slack to allow the grind wheel to register on the face of the bush. So the register for true running is the shoulder not the inside of the wheel. Thank you,
In my opinion, plastic is easier for a sharpener and better for a tight fit. In my experience, you can even use a seal with adhesive tape and this will not affect the final result. The main thing is that the inner and outer diameter sit without play. And also that the bearing does not knock. The final part is adjusting the balance and aligning with a diamond pencil.
WHAT A GREAT VIDEO... Sir, you must have been a GREAT ENGINEER!!! I'm in COMPLETE AGREEMENT. That Makita grinder is available in my country (Mexico), but all of them are unbalanced, misaligned and lack Variable Speed (needed for slower speeds for some materials) THANKS SO MUCH for all the content of this video. As we do not have any grinder sold here that comes with solid washers or flanges, I will wait for your next video on how to solve the problem without a turner or having to use a lathe. Meanwhile, you have my full admiration and professional respect. Cheers from Mexico!
That Makita grinder is still leagues better than most cheap-ish grinders out there. I have the exact same one in the video (the square red one, not Einhell) and it's a piece of crap.
This is a wonderful video. I have exactly this problem too. A little tip for balancing: According to gravity and when the grinding wheel is stationary, the heaviest point is always at the bottom. Do not drill deep into the grinding wheel with a few radial holes with a masonry drill. This also helps with balancing.😃
Adding weight on the light side is better than removing material from the heavy side. Removing material might compromise (specially drilling) the integrity of the grinding disc. The disc could explode during use.
I was wondering how much it could effect the stability of the wheel. Only once I've seen one shatter during use and somehow the dude didn't have a scratch but at least 1/4 of that wheel went flying across the shop. I saw he super glued some solder onto the wheel and that's pretty smart. If it has lead in it that would make a good weight. I was going to try using that epoxy that's used to balance electric motor rotors. It's usually by the commutator grey or black color.
Never, EVER risk the structural integrity of a grinding disk by "drilling holes" in it! Attacking a disk with a blunt masonry bit is about the worst possible advice in a place where amateurs are around. Any drilling operation with a "crushing" tip geometry is generating stress zones, increasing the risk for funny disk explosions. In case you never sat through a "BG" (Berufsgenossenschaft) training session, here is an update for you: th-cam.com/video/dU5Qf3W30-w/w-d-xo.html
Argh! No, no no! Stupid idea. Deadly even! Never, ever, drill holes in grinding wheel. By a high quality - yup, expensive - one and it will come correctly balanced. Research quality manufacturers. Still check it though, also do the gentle tap ring test for cracks. Any doubts? Destroy the wheel so no one else can use it.
I had the same problem, I solved it a little differently. Corrected the motor shaft with a lathe and made an adapter flange for the inside and outside. High quality disc used.
Usually the motor shaft does not hit. Even this purebred Chinese has no problems with the shaft. Quality disc? No imbalance? This doesn't happen. Have you checked it for balance? It is possible without balancing, the easiest way: if you straightened it with a diamond pencil and the disk rotates perfectly, what do you say when it stops - vibrations appear? If so, then the disk is not balanced. By the way, the video uses German discs, pay attention to what is written in German. All discs require imbalance correction, even professional ones. To do this, they are supplied with special washers with three weights on a circular offset groove. Type in the search for YUT "removing the imbalance of the abrasive disc." For example - th-cam.com/video/RJVn-G2nZaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@grain-diose my (china) shaft was very imprecise. With the two flanges (inside and outside) - they interlock - I prevented the tumbling. Thanks for the tip about the discs, I'll check have a nice day
@@leonhardulbrich32 I forgot to say, the vibrations are checked when the machine is just standing on the table (loose). If it is rigidly attached to the wall, slight vibrations may not be noticed.
Always a great idea to have any spinning power tool balanced. I have a buffing grinder as well and with any buffing disk it walks all over the floor with the pedestal stand. I have yet to go through it and balance everything... Thumbs Up!
Everything is fine. To simplify the actions, I can recommend Elitech CT 300. It has ready-made, fairly accurate mandrels that fully correspond to the drawing given in the video. Not an advertisement. And yes, when working metal with a drill at speed, safety glasses are strictly recommended. To avoid! My apologies for the crooked Google translation.
This is a great video. I've seen some crazy videos with people drilling holes in wheelss and other really dangerous stuff. I've just bought a really nice Jones and Shipman wheel balancing jig at auction for next to nothing and will use your technique to sort my horrible wheels
Yes, I have seen a video with balancing discs for professional large machines, but I don't know if there is one for a home grinder, where to buy it and it's probably expensive. My method can be repeated by everyone at home without buying anything and without spending a lot of time. And I think I forgot to say that epoxy can also be used to glue the balance.
If you were trying to tear off that glue, you wouldn't say that. If you don't have Somafix use epoxy, what's the problem? You are not gluing a smooth surface, you are gluing on an abrasive disc, nothing can be better, because the epoxy goes through the pores.
i have an extra one, a small one that i use occasionally for carbide bits; it is not bolted down, and if i don't hold it down, it goes all over the floor; and it scares me, so that i keep turning it off and on to keep the speed low, afraid one disk will explode!!! i will check it tomorrow as per your video; i may also try a 80mm washer in which i can remove (drill or grind off) chunks at the perimeter,marking the wheel and said washer, not a perfect way, but may improve some; *Thanks for your time, just great*
If you use your sharpener with a protective casing, then there is no need to worry. By the way, if a poorly glued balancer comes off, it will fly down the movement of the circle; the protective casing will not allow it to go higher.
Friends, if you don't have Somafix, use epoxy glue, it's even stronger. Epoxy gets into the pores of the abrasive disc and it's a stranglehold. They write to me here in the comments that it will fly off and gouge out the eye. They did not see and did not try to tear off Somafix, especially from a rough surface. Yes, I needed to show epoxy bonding, but I was sorry for the time, I'm sorry. I do not recommend any other glue except for CA Somafix and epoxy, it can really be dangerous. Two Ways to Make a Faceplate for Bench Grinder (No Lathe) - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html 00:00 Beginning 00:37 Key points 01:08 For some theory 01:23 End-face runouts 01:28 The motor shaft 01:44 Thin forged washers 02:21 Faceplates on Makita GB602 02:49 Faceplates on Einhell TH-BG 150 03:11 Discs with a hole of 12.7 mm and 32 mm 03:28 Faceplate 3D projection 03:44 Plan for the next video 04:09 Faceplate seal when mounted on a shaft 04:34 Grinding the faceplate 04:53 Correction of the radial geometry of the disc 05:40 Disc balancing 06:53 First disk test 08:15 Final test of both disks By the way, the less vibration, the longer the bearings in your grinder will last.
I was taught those things by my Dad 60 years ago and never failed to tame a nasty grinder! I can't stand unnecessary vibrations anyway but on a grinder it results in a poor finish. I've never seen glued on weight correction and I would not recommend it. The next step with that grinder is to change to a better grade of ball bearing. Those sound horrible!
@@dpeter6396 A good bearing is the basis, it is not even discussed. And discs all require balance correction, even professional ones. But professional ones have a special washer with three weights and a groove for moving them. There are many videos on TH-cam about it.
@@abcxyz2927 And what do you say to those who drill an abrasive disc to remove its imbalance? In fact, the disk has a protective casing. And you first try to tear off the CA Somafix glue or epoxy from the abrasive disc. And the disc can scatter itself also from constant vibration when it is unbalanced, have you thought about this? If everything is dangerous for you, do not buy any devices and machines - any of them are life-threatening. People manage to die in the bath with a cell phone and a cheap Chinese charger, do you want to save all the idiots?
By the way, I also recently found out, naively believing that abrasive discs are uniform in weight. I checked and immediately decided to share. It's really like a miracle, for so many years I suffered! If you don't have Somafix, use epoxy, it's even stronger. They write to me here in the comments that it will fly off and gouge out the eye. They did not see and did not try to tear off Somafix, especially from a rough surface. Yes, it was necessary to show gluing with epoxy, but I was sorry for the time, sorry.
Thanks Grain for you ideas. Starting with a proper face washer and bushing. Only thing I do not like is the glued balance weight. We got to imagine that it COULD come off! How about drilling some weight out on the heavy side? Will this weaken the grinding wheel? Another thing, not to simply press the dresser against the wheel, but hold it firmly against the tool rest so it's only cutting on the high part of the circumference. Even better - I think - I got a cheap single-point diamond dresser and am making an adjustable holder for this to slide across the edge of the tool rest. See Mr Pete #798 and #799. Overall it is a lengthy job to get a vibration-free grinder starting even with a quality machine. Everyone, please be careful!
Work with the protective cover and you will save yourself from any injury even if the balancer comes off. Because the balancer will fly down in the direction of rotation of the disk.
Thank you for the detailed guide. I bought an expensive brand grinder especially to not have these issues, but that didn't help, unfortunately I have to do all the things shown in the video. but at least i know how to do it.
You don't need an angle grinder to align the wheel geometry (not to be confused with unbalance removal), use this diamond tool - aliexpress.com/item/4001285335409.html
@@grain-diose Thank you, some time ago I already bought that inexpensive diamond tool on eBay for €1-2. My grinder is a Bosch GBG 35-15 it has two 150 mm discs. One disc was OK, but I had to remove the other one, it was so unbalanced, purchased a replacement disc hoping it will solve it, but it makes the same imbalanced run. So I got stick with one operational disc now, with the problem waiting to be resolved. I think it will be washer issues, but will do all your routine. Thanks again.
@@nick066hu, Quick query: Have you tried the "Good" grinding wheel (a.k.a. "Disk") on the other side where you have had two bad disks? It could be shaft run-out or a bad bearing and not the grinding wheel/disk/whatever that is the problem. If you swap sides and your machine runs w/o vibration, then you bought two bad wheels. If the opposite happens, then you need a machinist.
It's a super video. Thanks for your effort. I also do scissors sharpening, I have 4 of the same machine. We have done similar works, but there are also some things I learned from you. Thank you so much.
Gracias por el excelente video, muy didáctico y práctico. Nos muestra la importancia de tener un disco bien balanceado tanto para realizar un buen afilado de las herramientas, duración de los rodamientos como la seguridad personal pues una piedra desbalanceada nos puede arrebatar la herramienta. Gracias
Maestro, excelentes analisis de mecánica....sus enseñanzas muy valiosas...gracias.... abundancia, prosperidad, salud, alegría, armonía...para ud y su familia...hare krishna
The plastic bushings for the grinder wheels are junk. Metal ones are available, and are far more accurate. I do dress the sides of the wheels to true them up as well. Any stamped washer is also junk, but finding machined washers is not easy. You can also buy CBN wheels which come spin and bubble balanced, and last far more longer than standard wheels. They are not made for grinding carbon steels though, only hardened metals.
I machined pressed on flanges and adaptors for the wheels then made machined balancing washers and thought it was all great. Then the wheels wore after some time and became unbalanced. Too much of a hassle the wheels had a lot of life left. I put on a machined cbn and a diamond wheel. The machined washers I had made were still needed to prevent side to side wobble ( I held +-.04mm at the periphery of an 8” wheel) and radially fit the shafts with no perceptible play or skipping while cutting. All in all setup was 10x less than abrasive wheels and they cut faster. I can’t be making stuff to make stuff sometimes. Got to just get on with it.
Everything you said is absolutely correct. Of course, when grinding the abrasive wheel, the imbalance occurs again, because the diameter has decreased and the material of the abrasive disc remains uneven. The diamond disc is made of metal, so it does not have such problems, but it also needs precise alignment.
@@grain-diose and all the info you gave is good advice for people setting up vitrified wheels. I wish I had your video 15 years ago when I set mine up the first time Every problem you solve in that video I spent hours figuring out on my own.
@@TKC_ You will laugh, but I also struggled with the vibration of the abrasive disk for many years, and as soon as I found out about the need to remove the imbalance, I immediately made a video about it.
@@grain-diose the influence is significant.. Rigid metal wheels (like CBN) will not rotate co-axially , causing bounce and making it difficult to use, especially on the sides of the wheel.
@@executive Sorry, I misunderstood you. Yes, you are right, the clamping plane of the nut is not ideal. That is why the clamp is made through a cardboard gasket of about 0.5 mm, so for an abrasive disc the plane of the faceplate is the basis, which is desirable to be milled directly on the shaft. Watch my other video about it - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html
Hi folks. Fitting grinding wheels in industry is treated as a highly killed operation reserved to specialist trained fitters. There's a good reason for that. Don't mess with cheap grinders, buy a quality product. Yes, it's more expensive. Much nicer to use and much safer. Incidentally, those paper washers are important, do not leave them out. Check the wheel for cracks before fitting, a light tap with a small hammer and it should ring like a bell, if not, break it and dispose of it. Do not stand in the line of fire. Buy a machine with heavy duty guards and tool rests. Do not grind on the side of the wheel. Have a good read up about 'Grinding wheel safety' before ever using one. Wear safety glasses. Misused these things can kill and blind. The surface speed of a hobby grinding wheel can approach 60 mph, around 100 kph.
I was impressed with this video and have book marked it for future use. You have earnt yourself a like and another subscriber. Good luck with your channel and I look forward to following you to future enlightenment. Thank you kindly.
thank you. really nice video and some very helpful information. i was also a bit worried about the glue coming off but there are other methods like a balancing washer that do the same job so no big worries.
As you can see, my set up grinder just sits on the table and that's how I use it. Yes, if I had a permanent workshop, maybe after setting it up I would fix it on the table. But if you firmly mount the grinder on a table or wall just to reduce vibration, then this will definitely accelerate the wear of the bearings. If the grinder is set up perfectly and doesn't vibrate even after braking (check it out!), then you can do as you please, I think it doesn't matter.
Зачем 2 раза править диск, сказал этот парень и обточил его 2 раза… А если серьезно, то я думаю, начинать надо не с замены штампованной шайбы (хотя это тоже важно и нужно), а с проверки люфта в китайских подшипниках и ровности самого вала мотора. Бессмысленно точить новую упорную шайбу, если вал кривой, а шарики в подшипниках квадратные. Но вообще все остальное по делу. Лайк заслужил. Одно маленькое замечание для тех, кто будет повторять: если уж вы будете заказывать у токаря новые прижимные шайбы, то имеет смысл заказать и вторую большую шайбу с канавкой для грузиков, чтобы можно было балансировать камни прямо на устройстве. Если пойти в своем безумии еще дальше, то самым идеальным вариантом было бы изготовление конусной насадки на вал двигателя, заказ новых камней с посадочным отверстием 50 или 76 мм и изготовление прижимных шайб с очень плотной посадкой на камень, которые бы оставались на камне до момента его смерти. Иначе получится, что при каждой переустановке камня его заново надо центрировать, балансировать и подгонять. Посмотрите на устройство больших заточных и шлифовальных станков - там это реализовано с завода.
Подшипники это само собой, это по умолчанию, поэтому я и показал сперва биения вала. Это обсуживание и ремонт, видео не про это. Кстати, у чистокровного китайца Worcraft подшипники не менял, а издевался я над ним много, в частности много токарил на нем, т.е. сильные боковые нагрузки. А вот в немецком Einhell вскоре пришлось, хотя использовался в штатном режиме и совсем мало. Насчет 2 раза править диск, видимо это проблемы перевода. Я имел ввиду лучше 2 раза выправить геометрию алмазом, чем 2 раза корректировать дисбаланс. И если быть до конца честным, то по мере стачивания диска небольшой дисбаланс снова появится - чисто по законам физики. Поэтому можно грузик чуть меньше ставить или по мере стачиваният чуть снять. А вариант цельной шайбы со втулкой (что в следующем видео) показал еще лучший результат даже на "китайце". Разумеется, если он и на вал плотно садится, и диск на него.
Пока вам ответил, вы дополнили свой коммент. :) Спасибо за такие развернутые советы, но боюсь, те, кто шарит в инструменталке, и сами всё понимают и знают, а для простого любителя здесь возникает еще больше вопросов. Про подшипники сказано на 0:45. Да и на слух уже будет понятно - стук будет и при проверке рукой в выключенном будет люфтить. Но это уже как сказал, про обслуживание.
@@grain-diose остается изначально кривой вал на моторе. Увы, но явление довольно частое. А вы из России? Текст ответа уж больно отличается от машинного перевода.
@@grain-diose значит повезло. На чипмейкере русскоязычном то и дело всплывают темы про кривые китайские точила и методы их приведения в более-менее потребный вид.
Это временный, пока не обзавелся жестким. Впрочем и этот достаточно жесткий. Фанера 10мм Х2, стеклотекстолит 3 мм тоже в два слоя. Барашки из эпоксидки - th-cam.com/video/DIXbL_DKO-8/w-d-xo.html
Great job !!! There are commerical wheel balancing tools such as the one from one way .. but your trick of using lead solder seems great !! What glue did you use please ?
Thank you. I used Somafix S663 cyanoacrylate glue, it comes with a fixative, it is very convenient, I have been using it for several years. Now I see S667 on their website, but I think this is not important, I used to use small S661 containers, it made a fundamental difference. www.somafix.com.tr/SOMAFIX-UNIVERSAL-FAST-ADHESIVE-S667-EN.html This adhesive has good strength and sticks even to smooth surfaces. If there is no such glue, I allow the use of epoxy, this is also reliable.
Man thank you for making this! Every abrasive wheel I buy is so out of balance I'm terrified the wheel might come off. Nearly every video of "how to balance a grinder wheel" is some idiot rambling and trying to figure it out. After nearly ten minutes most say throw it in the trash and buy a new one. Bench grinders not exactly a precision tool no one makes disks with options to add different screws for weights. Anyways thanks my guy!
Interesting I checked my recently bough grinder it has a proper base plate but the disc is new and not balanced. I never knew to check that when purchasing just went to 1 200mm machine from reputable machine shop worked out great.
I don't know how to feel about gluing a piece of solder to the wheel. Usually when balancing a wheel like this you get an old drill and drill some material out of the side that's too heavy
Ha majd a fordító (program) tud különbséget tenni a daráló és a köszörű között, lenne mit mesélni. Most csak annyit, hogy a felragasztott egyensúlyozó nem túl biztonságos és a korong kopásával lehet, hogy a pozíciója csak ront a helyzeten. Az 1mm körüli váll a tengelyen soha nem lesz biztos támasztó bázis a tengely és a belső szorító perem között. Ha a köszörűkorongon fennmaradt a gyári papírkorong, fölösleges másikat ráhelyezni.
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Well done. All grinders should come from the factory like that.
Then they would cost twice as much.
It shouldn't even be legal to sell a grinder with stamped steel washers. Considering that balance issues also create a major safety hazard. Those stamped steel washers should have been outlawed.
A balance washer can improve wheel imbalance. Make the washer about 3mm thick, and 70-80mm in diameter. Drill the shaft hole 1-2mm off center. Mark the wheel and washer. Try the washer rotated in various directions until the imbalance is gone.
Sounds safer than being hit by a flying 5g lump of solder.
Better make two washers (with centered shaft holes), clamp them together, (add index marks), drill multiple holes along 180 degrees of each washer's outer circumference. This way, rotating the washers relative to each other, it's possible to adjust the amount of weight correction from zero (index marks 180 degrees to each other) to the total weight of material drilled out from the lightening holes (index marks aligned).
@@mikem6549 lol, yeah that's what I thought
How many pounds is 3 mm?
@@daleolson3506 Depends. Is it centigrade, or kelvin?
I just learned about two years of metalwork class in one video.
I am reasonably smart, done a bit of metalwork, and know a few things. Its been a long while since I sat down and watched a video that school me. Excellent work.
Doskonale wykonana robota, której się nikomu innemu nie będzie chciało wykonać.
A wystarczy nie kupować chińskiego gówna. :D
@@xvbvcv A ty myślisz, że ta szlifierka, choć jest obrandowana jako niemiecka firma, to skąd jest?
Wbij sobie do głowy, że większość silników elektrycznych na świecie ma gdzieś we wnętrzu chińskie krzaki... I tak jak kiedyś w Europie, tak i w obecnie w Chinach: są marki badziewne, za grosze i są marki bardzo dobre za niewiele większe pieniądze. Cud? Nie, prawdziwie wolna konkurencja.
Więc kupuj szwabskiego Boscha z chińskim silnikiem i pchaj szwabom kasiorę w dupy...
Ja kupię za trzecią cześć ceny chiński oryginał!!! :))))
This must be the *best* video on bench grinders on YT. Awesome work!
Damn, I love the Russians! Every technical detail and sheer artistry of wheel balancing covered. Like everything they do, it is first class. Art, Mathematics, Physics, Space Flights, Lacquer Paintings of Fedoskina and Palekh, the Hermitage treasures, the Kremlin treasures, Rostov Finift, their gymnasts, the Bolshoi Ballet, Chekov, Pushkin, Dostoyevsky, the music of Prokofiev, Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninoff ... such an incredible drive for excellence. Keep up the good work. Subscribed.
Greetings from California! Dying to visit Moskva and Sankt Peterburg again.
Thank you! Большое спасибо!
Derp
dont forget the Vodka... LOL
Пару лет назад проделывал практически всю описанную работу. В качестве балансировочного груза я использовал термоклей, нагревал камень феном и пропитывал боковую поверхность. В любом случае при работе нужно обезопасить себя от искр и вероятного отрыва балансировочного груза.
Радиальное биение убирал закрепленной "болгаркой" с установленным алмазным диском. Подводил этот диск к точильному камню и медленно вращая камень рукой убирал его радиальное биение. Пыли много - нужно использовать маску, желательно и пылесос.
Thank you very much for this video. I will have to try this out on my bench grinder, which has really bad vibration, like yours at the beginning! I was not aware of the reasons for the vibrations and how it can be fixed. I thought it was just a „not so good quality machine“ and I had to live with it. You have shown that this is not the case and how it can be improved a lot. 👍
Excellent video! The epoxy wire on the side of the wheel is a genius solution! Although Americans are very afraid of modifying tools, and they get nervous about making their own modifications that require a wildly unique solution.
A couple notes:
1.) The inside flange washer must be the same size as the outside flange washer, or at least very close in O.D. diameter, otherwise you risk cracking the grinding wheel.
2.) Use a block of wood and tap around the periphery very gently to align and center the grinding wheel, while it's only hand tight, before torquing down the arbor nuts.
3.) A 1/4" impact driver can easily tighten the grinding nuts on the bench grinder threaded arbor, one click or two clicks of your battery powered screw impact driver, or as close to 10 ft lbs of torque (as recommended by Norton official chart for 1/2" diameter thread) or 15 ft lbs for 5/8" diameter shaft. Hold the opposite side shaft, not the grinding wheels, when tightening, to maintain alignment.
4.) If your paper discs are not in good condition, then make new ones, or throw the whole grinding wheel away.
6.) There is a balancing system available in the U.S., but it's $95 per side, which apparently removes 100% of the vibration, and it's called "Oneway 2272" grinding wheel alignment system.
7.) People do say that the easiest way to balance a bench grinder is merely to tighten one side, then dress that side with your diamond dresser, then on the opposite side, mount, and then dismount and re-mount the grinding wheel over and over, turning it in small increments. Test, and repeat, until smooth. This process apparently removes about 90% of the vibration.
Thank you for such valuable advice! 👍
Regarding point 7, my remark. After leveling only with a diamond pencil, vibration will appear when the rotation slows down. The reason is the rotation of the disk around the center of gravity, which does not coincide with the geometric center. The solution for this method is to screw the sharpener to a hard steel table or a hard steel stand screwed into the wall. As a last resort, put the sharpener on a hard stone floor, step on the body with your foot with all your weight and level it with a diamond in this position. 😃
And I also just thought that perhaps you can print a balancing washer on a 3D printer. You just need to make the outer sides thicker so that the counterweights with centrifugal force do not tear the washer.
I turned an aluminium bush as you recommend and it works perfectly. The hole bored accurately and a very close fit on the spindle and the bush shoulder is turned perfectly true to the the hole. The 31.75mm for the grind wheel is turned very slightly slack to allow the grind wheel to register on the face of the bush. So the register for true running is the shoulder not the inside of the wheel.
Thank you,
In my opinion, plastic is easier for a sharpener and better for a tight fit. In my experience, you can even use a seal with adhesive tape and this will not affect the final result. The main thing is that the inner and outer diameter sit without play. And also that the bearing does not knock. The final part is adjusting the balance and aligning with a diamond pencil.
My next video is about faceplates for a sharpening machine - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html
Good video. Covers things most home users don't know.
WHAT A GREAT VIDEO... Sir, you must have been a GREAT ENGINEER!!! I'm in COMPLETE AGREEMENT. That Makita grinder is available in my country (Mexico), but all of them are unbalanced, misaligned and lack Variable Speed (needed for slower speeds for some materials) THANKS SO MUCH for all the content of this video. As we do not have any grinder sold here that comes with solid washers or flanges, I will wait for your next video on how to solve the problem without a turner or having to use a lathe. Meanwhile, you have my full admiration and professional respect. Cheers from Mexico!
Thanks for your feedback and greetings from Moldova.
That Makita grinder is still leagues better than most cheap-ish grinders out there. I have the exact same one in the video (the square red one, not Einhell) and it's a piece of crap.
Real good information. We all learn from this one and it's well, worth knowing and applying.
This is a wonderful video. I have exactly this problem too. A little tip for balancing: According to gravity and when the grinding wheel is stationary, the heaviest point is always at the bottom. Do not drill deep into the grinding wheel with a few radial holes with a masonry drill. This also helps with balancing.😃
Adding weight on the light side is better than removing material from the heavy side.
Removing material might compromise (specially drilling) the integrity of the grinding disc. The disc could explode during use.
@@joeylegaspi3515 agree, also think an exploding disk would be far more dangerous than a weight flying off.
I was wondering how much it could effect the stability of the wheel. Only once I've seen one shatter during use and somehow the dude didn't have a scratch but at least 1/4 of that wheel went flying across the shop. I saw he super glued some solder onto the wheel and that's pretty smart. If it has lead in it that would make a good weight. I was going to try using that epoxy that's used to balance electric motor rotors. It's usually by the commutator grey or black color.
Never, EVER risk the structural integrity of a grinding disk by "drilling holes" in it! Attacking a disk with a blunt masonry bit is about the worst possible advice in a place where amateurs are around. Any drilling operation with a "crushing" tip geometry is generating stress zones, increasing the risk for funny disk explosions. In case you never sat through a "BG" (Berufsgenossenschaft) training session, here is an update for you: th-cam.com/video/dU5Qf3W30-w/w-d-xo.html
Argh! No, no no! Stupid idea. Deadly even! Never, ever, drill holes in grinding wheel. By a high quality - yup, expensive - one and it will come correctly balanced. Research quality manufacturers. Still check it though, also do the gentle tap ring test for cracks. Any doubts? Destroy the wheel so no one else can use it.
I had the same problem, I solved it a little differently. Corrected the motor shaft with a lathe and made an adapter flange for the inside and outside. High quality disc used.
Usually the motor shaft does not hit. Even this purebred Chinese has no problems with the shaft. Quality disc? No imbalance? This doesn't happen. Have you checked it for balance? It is possible without balancing, the easiest way: if you straightened it with a diamond pencil and the disk rotates perfectly, what do you say when it stops - vibrations appear? If so, then the disk is not balanced.
By the way, the video uses German discs, pay attention to what is written in German. All discs require imbalance correction, even professional ones. To do this, they are supplied with special washers with three weights on a circular offset groove. Type in the search for YUT "removing the imbalance of the abrasive disc." For example - th-cam.com/video/RJVn-G2nZaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@grain-diose my (china) shaft was very imprecise. With the two flanges (inside and outside) - they interlock - I prevented the tumbling.
Thanks for the tip about the discs, I'll check
have a nice day
@@leonhardulbrich32 I forgot to say, the vibrations are checked when the machine is just standing on the table (loose). If it is rigidly attached to the wall, slight vibrations may not be noticed.
@@grain-diose ok I understand
Always a great idea to have any spinning power tool balanced. I have a buffing grinder as well and with any buffing disk it walks all over the floor with the pedestal stand. I have yet to go through it and balance everything... Thumbs Up!
Thanks for a good video. Didn't know these grinders to have such problems and can be further adjusted.
Everything is fine.
To simplify the actions, I can recommend Elitech CT 300. It has ready-made, fairly accurate mandrels that fully correspond to the drawing given in the video.
Not an advertisement.
And yes, when working metal with a drill at speed, safety glasses are strictly recommended. To avoid! My apologies for the crooked Google translation.
This is a great video. I've seen some crazy videos with people drilling holes in wheelss and other really dangerous stuff. I've just bought a really nice Jones and Shipman wheel balancing jig at auction for next to nothing and will use your technique to sort my horrible wheels
Yes, I have seen a video with balancing discs for professional large machines, but I don't know if there is one for a home grinder, where to buy it and it's probably expensive. My method can be repeated by everyone at home without buying anything and without spending a lot of time. And I think I forgot to say that epoxy can also be used to glue the balance.
Excellent video . Well done indicating the use of card washers on the flanges .
I've been looking for this for a long time, thank you!
Your balancing method is a great way to lose an eye , or a lot worse !!!
If you were trying to tear off that glue, you wouldn't say that. If you don't have Somafix use epoxy, what's the problem? You are not gluing a smooth surface, you are gluing on an abrasive disc, nothing can be better, because the epoxy goes through the pores.
I love it when a plan comes together!💪😜
Has to be the best video I have seen. Great advice and result, thanks for sharing. :-)
Thank you greatly.
Now I am back on the right path with my old faithful. Thor, the best bench grinder in the world is no longer vibrating. :-)
Good wrench is the half of the work! Thank You very much for share this great experience. There is very helpfull to understand the troubles.👍❤
i have an extra one, a small one that i use occasionally for carbide bits; it is not bolted down, and if i don't hold it down, it goes all over the floor; and it scares me, so that i keep turning it off and on to keep the speed low, afraid one disk will explode!!!
i will check it tomorrow as per your video; i may also try a 80mm washer in which i can remove (drill or grind off) chunks at the perimeter,marking the wheel and said washer, not a perfect way, but may improve some;
*Thanks for your time, just great*
If you use your sharpener with a protective casing, then there is no need to worry. By the way, if a poorly glued balancer comes off, it will fly down the movement of the circle; the protective casing will not allow it to go higher.
Friends, if you don't have Somafix, use epoxy glue, it's even stronger. Epoxy gets into the pores of the abrasive disc and it's a stranglehold.
They write to me here in the comments that it will fly off and gouge out the eye. They did not see and did not try to tear off Somafix, especially from a rough surface. Yes, I needed to show epoxy bonding, but I was sorry for the time, I'm sorry. I do not recommend any other glue except for CA Somafix and epoxy, it can really be dangerous.
Two Ways to Make a Faceplate for Bench Grinder (No Lathe) - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html
00:00 Beginning
00:37 Key points
01:08 For some theory
01:23 End-face runouts
01:28 The motor shaft
01:44 Thin forged washers
02:21 Faceplates on Makita GB602
02:49 Faceplates on Einhell TH-BG 150
03:11 Discs with a hole of 12.7 mm and 32 mm
03:28 Faceplate 3D projection
03:44 Plan for the next video
04:09 Faceplate seal when mounted on a shaft
04:34 Grinding the faceplate
04:53 Correction of the radial geometry of the disc
05:40 Disc balancing
06:53 First disk test
08:15 Final test of both disks
By the way, the less vibration, the longer the bearings in your grinder will last.
7777777766@
I was taught those things by my Dad 60 years ago and never failed to tame a nasty grinder! I can't stand unnecessary vibrations anyway but on a grinder it results in a poor finish. I've never seen glued on weight correction and I would not recommend it. The next step with that grinder is to change to a better grade of ball bearing. Those sound horrible!
@@dpeter6396 A good bearing is the basis, it is not even discussed. And discs all require balance correction, even professional ones. But professional ones have a special washer with three weights and a groove for moving them. There are many videos on TH-cam about it.
@@abcxyz2927 And what do you say to those who drill an abrasive disc to remove its imbalance? In fact, the disk has a protective casing. And you first try to tear off the CA Somafix glue or epoxy from the abrasive disc. And the disc can scatter itself also from constant vibration when it is unbalanced, have you thought about this? If everything is dangerous for you, do not buy any devices and machines - any of them are life-threatening. People manage to die in the bath with a cell phone and a cheap Chinese charger, do you want to save all the idiots?
paint it black and it will start rapping, then it will make kid and run away hehe
Thank you so much. It is enlightening indeed. Was never aware of the need to correct the imbalances.
By the way, I also recently found out, naively believing that abrasive discs are uniform in weight. I checked and immediately decided to share. It's really like a miracle, for so many years I suffered!
If you don't have Somafix, use epoxy, it's even stronger. They write to me here in the comments that it will fly off and gouge out the eye. They did not see and did not try to tear off Somafix, especially from a rough surface. Yes, it was necessary to show gluing with epoxy, but I was sorry for the time, sorry.
Thanks Grain for you ideas. Starting with a proper face washer and bushing. Only thing I do not like is the glued balance weight. We got to imagine that it COULD come off! How about drilling some weight out on the heavy side? Will this weaken the grinding wheel? Another thing, not to simply press the dresser against the wheel, but hold it firmly against the tool rest so it's only cutting on the high part of the circumference. Even better - I think - I got a cheap single-point diamond dresser and am making an adjustable holder for this to slide across the edge of the tool rest. See Mr Pete #798 and #799. Overall it is a lengthy job to get a vibration-free grinder starting even with a quality machine. Everyone, please be careful!
Work with the protective cover and you will save yourself from any injury even if the balancer comes off. Because the balancer will fly down in the direction of rotation of the disk.
Brilliant technic & perfectly executed, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the detailed guide. I bought an expensive brand grinder especially to not have these issues, but that didn't help, unfortunately I have to do all the things shown in the video. but at least i know how to do it.
You don't need an angle grinder to align the wheel geometry (not to be confused with unbalance removal), use this diamond tool - aliexpress.com/item/4001285335409.html
@@grain-diose Thank you, some time ago I already bought that inexpensive diamond tool on eBay for €1-2. My grinder is a Bosch GBG 35-15 it has two 150 mm discs. One disc was OK, but I had to remove the other one, it was so unbalanced, purchased a replacement disc hoping it will solve it, but it makes the same imbalanced run. So I got stick with one operational disc now, with the problem waiting to be resolved. I think it will be washer issues, but will do all your routine. Thanks again.
@@nick066hu OK, I thought you were leveling the abrasive wheel with an angle grinder. 😆
@@nick066hu, Quick query: Have you tried the "Good" grinding wheel (a.k.a. "Disk") on the other side where you have had two bad disks? It could be shaft run-out or a bad bearing and not the grinding wheel/disk/whatever that is the problem. If you swap sides and your machine runs w/o vibration, then you bought two bad wheels. If the opposite happens, then you need a machinist.
@@johnbesharian9965 Thank you for the good idea, I'll try that.
The metal weight should be a ring around the shaft, so it can't fly into your face. Otherwise, awesome tips!
It's a super video. Thanks for your effort. I also do scissors sharpening, I have 4 of the same machine. We have done similar works, but there are also some things I learned from you. Thank you so much.
Gracias por el excelente video, muy didáctico y práctico. Nos muestra la importancia de tener un disco bien balanceado tanto para realizar un buen afilado de las herramientas, duración de los rodamientos como la seguridad personal pues una piedra desbalanceada nos puede arrebatar la herramienta. Gracias
Great job.. really learned a lot here
Bravó,ezt nagyon jól csináltad!👍🕊
Maestro, excelentes analisis de mecánica....sus enseñanzas muy valiosas...gracias.... abundancia, prosperidad, salud, alegría, armonía...para ud y su familia...hare krishna
Vyzera to jednoducho, ale najst spravne množstvo proti zavažia nieje tak jednoduche. Mne to trvalo tridsat minut.
It's best to use thin solder for this, that's what I used.
PERFEKT ! ! ! THANK YOU. 1 * Slovakia.
The plastic bushings for the grinder wheels are junk. Metal ones are available, and are far more accurate. I do dress the sides of the wheels to true them up as well. Any stamped washer is also junk, but finding machined washers is not easy. You can also buy CBN wheels which come spin and bubble balanced, and last far more longer than standard wheels. They are not made for grinding carbon steels though, only hardened metals.
très bien expliqué et de plus ont n'en apprend tous les jours
Прекрасное видео. From Russia with love.
I machined pressed on flanges and adaptors for the wheels then made machined balancing washers and thought it was all great. Then the wheels wore after some time and became unbalanced. Too much of a hassle the wheels had a lot of life left. I put on a machined cbn and a diamond wheel. The machined washers I had made were still needed to prevent side to side wobble ( I held +-.04mm at the periphery of an 8” wheel) and radially fit the shafts with no perceptible play or skipping while cutting. All in all setup was 10x less than abrasive wheels and they cut faster. I can’t be making stuff to make stuff sometimes. Got to just get on with it.
Everything you said is absolutely correct. Of course, when grinding the abrasive wheel, the imbalance occurs again, because the diameter has decreased and the material of the abrasive disc remains uneven. The diamond disc is made of metal, so it does not have such problems, but it also needs precise alignment.
@@grain-diose and all the info you gave is good advice for people setting up vitrified wheels. I wish I had your video 15 years ago when I set mine up the first time Every problem you solve in that video I spent hours figuring out on my own.
@@TKC_ You will laugh, but I also struggled with the vibration of the abrasive disk for many years, and as soon as I found out about the need to remove the imbalance, I immediately made a video about it.
Very interesting and informative. I am surprised that there is no mention of CBN wheels.
Thanks, the goal was to talk about balancing the disk and the faceplate. By the way, there is already a video about two ways to make a faceplate.
the nut on the end of the shaft is also not perfectly square and applies uneven pressure. This can be corrected using spherical washers.
In such close proximity to the center, such influence is minimal. But checking the balance of the motor rotor is a good thing.
@@grain-diose the influence is significant.. Rigid metal wheels (like CBN) will not rotate co-axially , causing bounce and making it difficult to use, especially on the sides of the wheel.
@@executive Sorry, I misunderstood you. Yes, you are right, the clamping plane of the nut is not ideal. That is why the clamp is made through a cardboard gasket of about 0.5 mm, so for an abrasive disc the plane of the faceplate is the basis, which is desirable to be milled directly on the shaft. Watch my other video about it - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html
Spot on realy enjoyed that video subscribed
Espectacular video muchas gracias y saludos desde Argentina
по мере изнашивания диска его надо опять балансировать? отковырять грузик и приклеить новый???
Amazing work Dude, thanks for sharing.
This is a very informative video. I have same problem to. Now I can resolve this issue.
Not listening to a computerized "voice" when this just as easily be narrated by a real human
Sorry, I don't speak English.
Very professional work
Hi folks. Fitting grinding wheels in industry is treated as a highly killed operation reserved to specialist trained fitters. There's a good reason for that. Don't mess with cheap grinders, buy a quality product. Yes, it's more expensive. Much nicer to use and much safer. Incidentally, those paper washers are important, do not leave them out. Check the wheel for cracks before fitting, a light tap with a small hammer and it should ring like a bell, if not, break it and dispose of it. Do not stand in the line of fire. Buy a machine with heavy duty guards and tool rests. Do not grind on the side of the wheel. Have a good read up about 'Grinding wheel safety' before ever using one. Wear safety glasses. Misused these things can kill and blind. The surface speed of a hobby grinding wheel can approach 60 mph, around 100 kph.
merci pour tout ces précieux conseils.
Brilliant video once again. Thankyou
I was impressed with this video and have book marked it for future use. You have earnt yourself a like and another subscriber. Good luck with your channel and I look forward to following you to future enlightenment. Thank you kindly.
I'm glad it was helpful to you!
Great work! May I ask what CAD software you used?
Thank you! КОМПАС-3D - kompas.ru/
damn this man seems to know his stuff
thank you. really nice video and some very helpful information. i was also a bit worried about the glue coming off but there are other methods like a balancing washer that do the same job so no big worries.
The best replacement for CA Somafix glue is epoxy.
is it better to bolt grinder to the table or leave free standing with rubber feet?
As you can see, my set up grinder just sits on the table and that's how I use it. Yes, if I had a permanent workshop, maybe after setting it up I would fix it on the table.
But if you firmly mount the grinder on a table or wall just to reduce vibration, then this will definitely accelerate the wear of the bearings.
If the grinder is set up perfectly and doesn't vibrate even after braking (check it out!), then you can do as you please, I think it doesn't matter.
@@grain-diose thanks for the answer, i plan on balancing first as i prefer not to drill bolt holes in bench.
Thank you Sir.🎉
very smart and optionally, you will save your bearings too 🤓👍
My 1HP Rikon grinder came with a milled cast iron faceplate
Excellent, thank you .👍
Awesome video, thanks 👍🙌👌😊
Such a beautiful video ⭐️ Thank you very much for all this important information. 🪚🛠👍🏻
Зачем 2 раза править диск, сказал этот парень и обточил его 2 раза…
А если серьезно, то я думаю, начинать надо не с замены штампованной шайбы (хотя это тоже важно и нужно), а с проверки люфта в китайских подшипниках и ровности самого вала мотора. Бессмысленно точить новую упорную шайбу, если вал кривой, а шарики в подшипниках квадратные.
Но вообще все остальное по делу. Лайк заслужил.
Одно маленькое замечание для тех, кто будет повторять: если уж вы будете заказывать у токаря новые прижимные шайбы, то имеет смысл заказать и вторую большую шайбу с канавкой для грузиков, чтобы можно было балансировать камни прямо на устройстве.
Если пойти в своем безумии еще дальше, то самым идеальным вариантом было бы изготовление конусной насадки на вал двигателя, заказ новых камней с посадочным отверстием 50 или 76 мм и изготовление прижимных шайб с очень плотной посадкой на камень, которые бы оставались на камне до момента его смерти. Иначе получится, что при каждой переустановке камня его заново надо центрировать, балансировать и подгонять.
Посмотрите на устройство больших заточных и шлифовальных станков - там это реализовано с завода.
Подшипники это само собой, это по умолчанию, поэтому я и показал сперва биения вала. Это обсуживание и ремонт, видео не про это. Кстати, у чистокровного китайца Worcraft подшипники не менял, а издевался я над ним много, в частности много токарил на нем, т.е. сильные боковые нагрузки. А вот в немецком Einhell вскоре пришлось, хотя использовался в штатном режиме и совсем мало.
Насчет 2 раза править диск, видимо это проблемы перевода. Я имел ввиду лучше 2 раза выправить геометрию алмазом, чем 2 раза корректировать дисбаланс. И если быть до конца честным, то по мере стачивания диска небольшой дисбаланс снова появится - чисто по законам физики. Поэтому можно грузик чуть меньше ставить или по мере стачиваният чуть снять.
А вариант цельной шайбы со втулкой (что в следующем видео) показал еще лучший результат даже на "китайце". Разумеется, если он и на вал плотно садится, и диск на него.
Пока вам ответил, вы дополнили свой коммент. :) Спасибо за такие развернутые советы, но боюсь, те, кто шарит в инструменталке, и сами всё понимают и знают, а для простого любителя здесь возникает еще больше вопросов.
Про подшипники сказано на 0:45. Да и на слух уже будет понятно - стук будет и при проверке рукой в выключенном будет люфтить. Но это уже как сказал, про обслуживание.
@@grain-diose остается изначально кривой вал на моторе. Увы, но явление довольно частое.
А вы из России? Текст ответа уж больно отличается от машинного перевода.
@@Feanor2 Мной три точила было куплено: два Einhell и один китаец. Ни у одного проблем с валом не было. Я из Молдовы, русскоязычный.
@@grain-diose значит повезло. На чипмейкере русскоязычном то и дело всплывают темы про кривые китайские точила и методы их приведения в более-менее потребный вид.
When I finish sorting my socks ,brushing the dogs teeth and washing my goldfish, I will do this right away.
0:44 штатив из постапокалипсиса...
из фанеры или текстолита? Барашки из крышек от пэт-бутылок?
Это временный, пока не обзавелся жестким. Впрочем и этот достаточно жесткий. Фанера 10мм Х2, стеклотекстолит 3 мм тоже в два слоя. Барашки из эпоксидки - th-cam.com/video/DIXbL_DKO-8/w-d-xo.html
Молодец! Всё подробно рассказано.
но много излишней работы, которая не влияет на результат.
Колхоз. Больше от качества самого точила зависит.
Great job !!! There are commerical wheel balancing tools such as the one from one way .. but your trick of using lead solder seems great !! What glue did you use please ?
Thank you. I used Somafix S663 cyanoacrylate glue, it comes with a fixative, it is very convenient, I have been using it for several years. Now I see S667 on their website, but I think this is not important, I used to use small S661 containers, it made a fundamental difference.
www.somafix.com.tr/SOMAFIX-UNIVERSAL-FAST-ADHESIVE-S667-EN.html
This adhesive has good strength and sticks even to smooth surfaces. If there is no such glue, I allow the use of epoxy, this is also reliable.
Great explanation!
Very, very good. TNX
Ilmu sangat luar biasa saya akan mencobanya
Man thank you for making this! Every abrasive wheel I buy is so out of balance I'm terrified the wheel might come off. Nearly every video of "how to balance a grinder wheel" is some idiot rambling and trying to figure it out. After nearly ten minutes most say throw it in the trash and buy a new one. Bench grinders not exactly a precision tool no one makes disks with options to add different screws for weights. Anyways thanks my guy!
I also advise you to watch a video about creating a faceplate, this will further reduce vibrations - th-cam.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/w-d-xo.html
Nice work ,sir !
Thank you for video.
bardzo ciekawy film, dziękuję!
nice work , thanks for shear
عملك راقي👍👍👏👏👏👏
What about the unbalanced rotor?
You are right, this is also desirable to check.
Interesting I checked my recently bough grinder it has a proper base plate but the disc is new and not balanced. I never knew to check that when purchasing just went to 1 200mm machine from reputable machine shop worked out great.
I don't know how to feel about gluing a piece of solder to the wheel. Usually when balancing a wheel like this you get an old drill and drill some material out of the side that's too heavy
Drilling a disk is a bad idea; this can cause microcracks, with understandable consequences.
Impresive !
Great instruction, thanks 🙂
Nice video, thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for sharing
👌👍👍👍 Superbement bien expliqué
Great video, thanks..
This was awesome thanks
Really helpful 👍
Excellent
Very useful stuff thx. That voice sounds familiar - you’re not perhaps related to the late Stephen hawking??
this is the voice of a robot
Geil !!!thanks allot for that vid 😊
Nice! 👏
Buen video saludos desde México.
Ha majd a fordító (program) tud különbséget tenni a daráló és a köszörű között, lenne mit mesélni. Most csak annyit, hogy a felragasztott egyensúlyozó nem túl biztonságos és a korong kopásával lehet, hogy a pozíciója csak ront a helyzeten. Az 1mm körüli váll a tengelyen soha nem lesz biztos támasztó bázis a tengely és a belső szorító perem között. Ha a köszörűkorongon fennmaradt a gyári papírkorong, fölösleges másikat ráhelyezni.
I never felt so many regrets as after i bought this grinder, it's soooo weak i can prevent it from running with 2 fingers.