I'm a 15+ year tech in Canada/Ontario. It's great watching a skilled technician like yourself work on even this basic problem. Just ordered the hard copy of your book a few days ago, looking forward to reading/referencing it. This wasn't a normal video for you, but I particularly enjoyed watching a start to finish repair. Thanks for the video!
its nice to see your mobile shop and the field conditions that play into our work. its obvious that pete could have got that but he knows and appreciates time and continues that on going relationship. i'm glad i don't work in cold climates like that anymore
That was great "Real World" troubleshooting. The truth of dealing with the weather, most certainly cold weather, is quick and accurate diagnostics. Follow through to the end, check all points, and ask "Why". Even if it means laying in the snow with frozen fingers. This video shows the less comfortable side of this trade. Great work.
Hey Paul, Good info and procedure, I appreciate it. I know you don't do much in the way of repair but for those of you who might read this I have a few pointers on R&Ring this pump. The procedure would be the same for R&Ring the whole assembly, but in my experience it is very difficult to get to the electrical connector and to get it out of the factory position, which is why I just replace the pump and sock. 1. Remove the filler neck, and pump or siphon the fuel to less than a half tank. ( I have done dozens of these in my fleet of CVPI's and they never fail without a full or nearly full tank) It can be a bit difficult to get the neck out, you will have to rotate and pull down. The vent line will get slightly bent but can be easily straightened when you reinstall. 2. Jack and support the car on the frame so the wheels are at least the wheels are off the ground (or use a lift) it is important to get the suspension fully extended and the axle as low, relative to the frame, as possible. 3. use something to pull and hold the passenger side exhaust pipe to the left as far as you can without bending. 4. Disconnect the fuel lines. 5. Remove the bolts that hold the pump assembly in the tank (8 - 8mm bolts) 6. Cut the piece of tape on the wire loom that protects the wires as they go into the pump assembly. This will allow some extra slack in the wiring to maneuver the pump out of the tank, and around the axle. 7. Be careful to not damage the float while removing the pump. Just take your time and gently remove it. You should be able to get it down below the tank and easily R&R the pump or the entire assembly. 7. Reassemble in the reverse order. 8. I like to notch, you can even peen it over with a ball-peen, the hole where the filler neck goes through the inner part of the quarter panel, it makes getting it back in (and out again if necessary) much much easier. Like I said I have done dozens of these exact pumps, for most it won't matter but with a little experience the whole process can be done in 30 to 45 minutes. Hope this helps! Oh P.S. for Joe Yoone - they went to the returnless system in 2003 (R&R is the same just one less fuel line). I didn't hear Paul mention the year on this.
I know you are a "do it right" type of person but your content greatly out weighs the need for video quality. Thanks for sharing your knowlege & skill.
Awesome video Paul!! Last night my wife made me choose between watching the Bachelor with her or watching "that scanner danner guy" by myself down in the basement. like I said awesome video.
The real world! Dead battery, outside, cold, snow covered car and a boot full of crap . but didn't cut any corners in the diagnosis. A lesson there in its self, one of your best videos. PS no snow yet in England.
This brings back memories Paul, of my time fighting on these Miami streets. Imagine when it's 90+ outside blazing sun. It made me a more efficient tech, that's for sure. I'm grateful, but happy those days are over, and ppl can just bring me cars now.
Very helpful video, I'm about to dig into learning this procedure for myself soon---thanks for sharing your time and knowledge! I do chuckle just a bit at your walking back and forth getting tools---I do the same thing daily in my windshield business. I swear half my time on any job is retrieving forgotten or dropped tools. :)
We definitely appreciate it my man! I got a 02 ford E350 crank no start. Wiring is confusing as shit and I don't have any fancy tools. But I got no fuel pressure. The more videos I watch the dumber I get. Thanks anyway
@@ScannerDanner Oh wow! Yes spark for sure 100%. So i might as tell you, the key will not crank. So what i did was turn key to on a shot of ether and a rag with gasoline right in front of the throttle body and jumped the the solenoid next to the battery and it ran and sounded good. I tried to jump fuel pump relay and got a tiny squirt out of the shrader on fuel rail but it didn't start and it only did it once. Now back to no pressure.
@@ScannerDanner Thank you for all your time you put into your videos and comments. They really do make life better for the whole world. I know you are busy. I'll keep studying your videos until I understand and can fix my Van. Dude I'm the same way as you with the thought process and listening to myself talk out loud so I can see what I'm saying except I'm just talking to myself lol. Direction would be great.
Hey Paul. Be cool to make yourself a wireless relay. Think it wouldnt be too hard and you could crank over the engine, etc, in the field alone. It'll probably change your plan of attack if you could smell the exhaust, etc. Maybe an old remote controlled RC car with its servos etc could be used for parts. Love your vids brother. Also, I made a simple transducer like the one you made that was attached to the fuel regulator. Those pulses I saw look almost the same as the one I made using a piezo transducer at Radioshack. Just wired it directly to the scope with some shielded line and used double sided tape to attach it to a battery clip. Produced oscillations almost same as yours. I always learn something new to add to my bag of tricks watching your vids. Thank you so much Paul. I wish I had you as a teacher 15 years ago.
This was a great video and I learned a lot! Crown Vic (and many Fords) do throw a code if there is a problem with the fuel pump. This even goes back to EEC IV. The PCM monitors voltage to the pump. It is simply spliced into the secondary side of the relay and into a pin on the PCM. I think the codes are P0231, P0232. Had one in memory the other day because I took out the relay to relieve fuel pressure.... Definitely worth to connect the scanner first on a Ford and read codes if there is a no start. Last Ford I dealt with had a bad CCRM relay- just .4V off at the fuel pump (unloaded) but couldn't deliver current to turn the pump. Pump was stuck because of the low voltage but after freeing it up it works fine now for months. Just an owner and serious DIYer but find your vids awesome.
What is your technique for applying heat shrink on wire that is connected on both ends? I am only familiar with tubular heat shrink that you slip over cut wires.
Come on scanner you know, I hope is first thing to check on Ford no start is the inertia switch. I love the response from owners when ya hit that switch and it fires up. My ole Merc is sensitive to shutting the trunk or back doors.
Another excellent video Paul. Up here in Canada its been -35 with the windchill some days and we often have to go out on service calls today to get trucks running. Of course the batteries are normally dead when we arrive too. I think a few of us would love to know a little more of your work background, where and how u started out and how u got into the mobile diagnostics business. I'm hoping one day to go down a similar path. A ScannerDanner history video would be awesome. Again man well done and thanks for all you give us!
I will need to do that for you guys. With every new class, I always give my students my work background. I will record it next time and put it up here. It won't be until April though but I will do it.
I can't imagine working in that cold. We had our coldest day here in over 20 years a few weeks ago. It was -11F with a -35 to -40 windchill. They actually closed our school for it. We've been getting our share of Canadian air this winter for sure. It will be 0F tonight. Glad I have a wood stove! Love it so much
Watching this in July... 105 deg here in Texas today... that snow looked pretty good... haha. The tank in these Crown Vics is hard to get to. Thanks for videoing; I know it isn't easy and it doubles the time to do something...
Paul, one day can you give us a walk through of the tools you bring with you when you work in the field? It gets to the essential tools one would use for initial diagnostics. Today I was a little surprised you had a fuel pressure gauge, ha ha.
good idea. but it never fails youll forget something that would make life easier. but with good essentials you can make due. paperclips are your friends lol
Nice of you to plug Latorres Auto, it's hard to find good honest shops these days anywhere. And anyone watching you knows, if they are employing Paul to make a call that they don't have the time or knowledge to be 100%, they care about their customers and reputation.
Sucks to work on it with a dead battery and pack but if you have battery voltage to the pump and there's no fuel pressure it's time to drop the tank (unless you have an access port which this car did not). I've actually had to do these tests too. They are a lot of fun playing detective. Great job. Love the slim head-mounted camera it worked out pretty well.
Paul, get a big 1000 CCA high reserve traditional lead acid car battery to keep in the back of your truck. About $100. Get a long (10 foot or longer) pair of heavy gauge high quality jumper cables. You'll be able to run a car off that for a long time, with lots of reserve for multiple cranking sessions. Along with your new jump pack that you just got recently, you'll be covered for everything.
Great video Paul! Camera was great. I use video sunglasses while working (for my TH-cam channel). Your setup allows for better tilting, but mine is less obvious to customers.
In the conditions your working the camera shots came out great in my opinion. Great work as always. I guess I'm lucky living in Florida, never have to deal with snow at my shop. If that battery had been charged you probably would have cut your diag time in half. I tell all of my techs to watch your videos. Keep them coming!
Nice video, it reminds me of the first shop that i work for, full of cars and working on them out in the snow (sucks). It wasn't your fancy clean floors, nice waiting area shop but if you walk inside the shop you could find anything from your 80k mercedez to your crappy daily honda and everything in between. I know a lot of people don't like the old looking shops but its not the looks is the people that work there and do quality job. I find it funny when they take their cars to the dealership and they just throw parts at it and can't fixt it, then bring to the shop and magically the shop is nice.
Great video I got the feeling I was out there with you I could feel the stiff fingers out there. I am working outside to as a carpenter in 22F (-30C) I think you did a great job out in the snow. You do a great video job also. . Nice to have outdoors view at the landscape since I am from Europe.
Camera work was great, very watchable. Great video, I really like your field videos, your earlier ones were great too but I saw you struggle having to hold the camera! Nice work.
Radio shack number is 273-073. At fist it didn't strike me as a true piezo device. i had expected a more crystal like unit but this one truly does work and produce voltage on its own, so no op amps, etc, are needed. I think you could use a buzzer like the ones found in your multi meter because they look exactly the same and it makes sense that it would seeing that most transducers go both ways in that they can self emit voltage and have voltage applied to them and produce a waveform. i got a few of these little buzzers but haven't made a unit from one yet, but the Radio shack unit does work, and if you could provide a simple band pass filter I imagine you could isolate any stable frequency based emissions such as engine noises, exhaust, harmonics, etc, and use your FFT on your scope or a Spectrum Analyzer to correlate engine harmonics to the cycle of the engine. this has the potential to know the rate at which the event occurred during the engine cycle. IE, easily detect more complex engine mechanical noises such as wrist pin and other noises of a cyclic nature.
Hi Paul, that looked pretty cold there, brought back some memories of working in the cold, you must be a tough cookie, lose all strength and feeling in your fingers, lucky not to slip over the edge there, I thought it might have halped if Pete had charged the battery for you before you got there and chaged the power pack up, just make it a bit easier, anyway looks like you found the problem ok, pity people cant break down in the middle of summer...best wishes, great video thanks...Fred uk.
Excellent video, thanks. My car - 98 Crown Vic - 37k miles - bought this winter at auction. This winter it always started when cold, if hot I'd have to let it cool down then it will start. Warmer weather now it runs half hour - 34# fuel pressure - pressure drops to 0 - engine dies - voltage at FP relay drops to 0 in that order. Fuel pump? Today I'll check the wires in the trunk. Only tools I have is pressure gauge, volt meter and 12V tester light. Thanks !!
This video may help you too. It is an older EECIV system but they didn't change the fuel pump circuit much on your 98 th-cam.com/video/Tq1m3vzdVjo/w-d-xo.html
Joined your forum, look under Oriley - 98 Crown Vic Fuel Pump for today's test. Fuel pressure drops to 0 then dies and when cranking it stays at 0 Thanks so much, without this video I wouldn't have a clue where to even begin.
Camera work is kl, get to see it from first hand on the job perspective. Keep up the good work. Just got your book which saids a lot cause i hate reading lol.
great camera work, nice ** note about the ford pacific check engine light, I have seen like on later models such as gm Chrysler when fuel pumps are going out I would get fuel pump circuit A high of some sort..
Man check the inertia switch if it is not popped, take that engine cover off put a pocket screwdriver in the Schrader valve, or disconnect the fuel line from the rail. Crank it over, if no fuel comes out, tell the customer they need a fuel pump. Sell it for 4 hours. Order the pump, while it is on its way, rack the vehicle up and have an assistant hop in. Check the power and ground wires right before the pump underneath the vehicle by having the assistant crank the engine over while using a headlight bulb between those two power and ground wires. Make sure the bulb illuminated 3-5 seconds while cranking, if It does throw the pump in. 9 times out of 10 if not more, it is going to be the pump on an old crown vic like this. In the rare case it is not the pump, use the 4 hours you sold the pump for to diagnose and find or overlay the bad wire. Customer wont be upset because wire is free so they will now pay less because they are not paying for a pump if it ends up being wiring. Yes it could be a fuse, relay, CMP sensor or CKP sensor but those are all cheaper than the pump as well. Now the customer is happy because they got a quick response, and YOU are not wasting your time with this nonsense. Always start from the component and work your way back with electrical. Otherwise you are wasting time which equates to wasting money. BTW Yes it could be a PCM driver, but in the real world, the time you save by doing it my way is worth the risk.
And we finally get a rare glimpse of the coveted scannerdanner fuel pressure test kit (the whole kit, not just the guage). But why does this kit come with two separate guages?
No kidding. There's no middle ground either, in regards to price and quality. I had an $89 harbor freight fuel pressure kit that was a total.... well lets just say I couldn't trust it. at all. I ended up replacing it with a $500 OTC kit. Probably overkill for me but at least I can trust it. No one can stop me know......
Thanks for difficult weather conditions car testing. Was not to clear what the relay adapter and control you used to check amps under hood. What tool is this? Also, just did a check on my fuel pump on F-150 truck and all manuals seemed to say start at fuse and work to pump. I tested at inertia switch wire to pump and verified voltage like you did in trunk. Good voltage then I know fuse, relay and inertia switch good. Then jumped to wiring at pump to verify still good voltage. My thought was if no voltage between pump and inertia switch I would then start at the fuse on back again. This saved me a few steps.
You should get a Lisle prop rod for hoods. They're dirt cheap I find myself using it all the time. Almost elbowing off a prop rod in my way once sold me on one.
I still have so much to learn! I think the best attitude to have is to stay humble. If you are not, these cars will find a way to humble you real quick. Right? Keep at it my friend. You will get better and better the more you do this. I am in my 22nd year or so of focusing primarily on this subject.
Roberto. Yes a power probe is nice bu you can't get current measurments with it which is what he was doing. Voltage readings on pumps are only half the story. But i do love my power probe. Comes in handy a lot....just not here.
In the late 90's there was a old man with a car like this one and in the trunk way up near the back seats there was a big tank. A cylinder tank that was for propane I believe and it was from Ford. The car had been sold with that. It would run on petrol but if there was propane in the tank it would mix it. With all my experience today I cant make any sense of that memory but its real.
Well done Paul. The camera work was great. Latorre's Auto had you diagnose the problem - "HUM" - this was not a real hard one to figure out. Seems odd to me. C'est la vie
Steve. The garages that I work for, at times will not even look at these cars before I come it. It is smart business to handle all your other customers needs and let someone else do the troubleshooting for you. You know as well as I that if you do not do electrical and electronic troubleshooting ALL the time, that you will get your butt kicked and it will take you 10 times longer to figure out. Not to mention the equipment investment. It is easier to call me, they mark-up my fees, so they make a little on the diagnostics and get to do the repair and be 100% confident that it will be right when they are done.
That’s what jumper cables for you should I head to hook up your truck with a set of jumper cables? That way you would’ve been charging the battery the same time you’re doing a test or you would’ve had a full battery
Was wondering where Latore’s is. I have friends down that way. I’ll steer them there since you do work for them SD. I’m out the Allegheny a ways and learning a lot from you man.
In spite of where the tank is on those, fuel pumps on those cars are actually pretty easy to replace. Get it up on a rack and it'll be obvious why. The only 2 problems you'll really run into is getting the fuel tank pressure sensor unplugged, and if they've got a bunch of gas in the car.
LOL!!! That's funny that you mistook me for him cause I do actually shoot the shit with him online on a somewhat semi-regular basis. I got family that's kinda-sorta close to where he's at, so one of these days I'm gonna meet the man in person.
Fuel pump went out on my 2003 Grand Marquis back in 2012. Shop charged $950 to drop the tank, drain the fuel, replace the pump, and put everything back together. There was 5 hours labor charged. How is that "pretty easy to replace"?
You must be the best diagnostic teacher on this planet.One question what type of camera are you using to film this video. You remind me of my step son in Wanblee South Dakota working outside every day sub degree minus temperatures to support his family Between 1985 and 1996 I lived there also
Was this the one where I had a camera on my head? I don't remember but I hated the way this came out. Made me dizzy watching. Too much head movement and camera movement
I certainly and sincerely hope Pete has tech's that work for him. To me, it is not acceptable to allow an older man to work alone while the youths go out and get in trouble. If they are getting paid, they need to work.....hard. I was a god sent to my uncle and unfortunately a lot of these smaller shops are suffering, simply because the numbers of vehicles in need of repair far outweigh the number of credible techs. On another note, crown vics, sables, grand marquis, they universally share this set up on fuel pump circuitry for the most part. This is as real as it gets folks, I love it.
I'm only getting audio out of the left channel. Either a stereo mic only recorded the left channel or whatever you are using to mix down in post production messed up the stereo stream. You can mix down a mono track to stereo and vice versa in most editing software to prevent this from happening again.
ScannerDanner Just letting you know it can be fixed in post production. Simply duplicate the audio track and flip the channels from left to right, then export audio as stereo. OR turn the left channel only stereo track into mono.
Great video, watching your videos are like being back in trade school. Always learning new things and being reminded of things I have forgotten . I have become a huge fan of yours along with etcg, realfixesrealfast, and briansmobile1. For electrical stuff I definitely come to your channel first
Great post ScannerDanner. Have a general question that might help my fellow Chrysler Cirrus owners. Having an engine misfire and have changed pretty much all the ignitions components because it had been awhile since they had been done. Fixed oil leaking into spark plug wells by replacing rubber seals. Have changed crank sensor, distributor, spark wires, plugs and cleaned IAC, and; although, it is running better, it is still misfiring. My question is, how should an intermittent failure be tracked down when, by its nature will not always lend itself to be found so easily?
Oh, and the price is like 4 bucks! and if u feel up to it buy the Mosfet version of the 555 timer. With this u can make a universal driver with adjustable pules width and frequency. I use mine to do injector drops, or basically run any PWM actuator. It's easy to make and costs almost nothing. use an old 5 volt reg like the ones use you use to charge your phones in the car as your Vref. Because its part of the vehicle's circuit u can then use the car battery's to get the gain needed for the actuators. I saw your vid where u had the injector driver. I've bought thousands in tools when i was younger, and since applying more advanced electronics into my diag program I began making my own test equipment and now i cant believe how cheap and easy it is to do and how much i want to punch myself for not doing it much earlier. Im not going to comment on our tool guys either, but man I have ideas about what they think about us. try this and then let me know your reaction. Next time you pull out your Weize wand or whatever it's called, instead grab a long folded strip of tin foil and double foam tape it across a set of coils. try a four cylinder set up and make sure the foil doesnt touch ground. Then simply clip your probe tip to the foil and the other to your favorite ground. U can start with an attenuator just for safety and then take it out if it isnt needed. Dont forget to ground your scope chassis. Next time you hop on the tool truck you just might find yourself in a different state of mind.
Nice Work Dan,Warmer Weather would have made it easier to check for power at the pump, 1080p High Definition Safety Glasses Might Be of interest to you.
![Toyota Camry - Intermittent No Start, Backfiring, Runs Good When it Starts [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Tro9M12LoQw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Danner for taking the time and all your effort shooting this video. No need to apologize for anything. Keep up the great work.
I'm a 15+ year tech in Canada/Ontario. It's great watching a skilled technician like yourself work on even this basic problem. Just ordered the hard copy of your book a few days ago, looking forward to reading/referencing it. This wasn't a normal video for you, but I particularly enjoyed watching a start to finish repair. Thanks for the video!
Never get bored wit a teacher like Mr Danner. Thanks again.
its nice to see your mobile shop and the field conditions that play into our work. its obvious that pete could have got that but he knows and appreciates time and continues that on going relationship. i'm glad i don't work in cold climates like that anymore
That was great "Real World" troubleshooting. The truth of dealing with the weather, most certainly cold weather, is quick and accurate diagnostics. Follow through to the end, check all points, and ask "Why". Even if it means laying in the snow with frozen fingers. This video shows the less comfortable side of this trade. Great work.
Thanks Jeremy!
Mr Paul Danner = The Chuck Norris of automotive diagnostics.
I am a huge huge huge fan!
No mechanic, in the USA work as hard as you do, in these conditions snow, and very cold weather, I watch this video every time I like it thanks
Hey Paul, Good info and procedure, I appreciate it. I know you don't do much in the way of repair but for those of you who might read this I have a few pointers on R&Ring this pump. The procedure would be the same for R&Ring the whole assembly, but in my experience it is very difficult to get to the electrical connector and to get it out of the factory position, which is why I just replace the pump and sock.
1. Remove the filler neck, and pump or siphon the fuel to less than a half tank. ( I have done dozens of these in my fleet of CVPI's and they never fail without a full or nearly full tank) It can be a bit difficult to get the neck out, you will have to rotate and pull down. The vent line will get slightly bent but can be easily straightened when you reinstall.
2. Jack and support the car on the frame so the wheels are at least the wheels are off the ground (or use a lift) it is important to get the suspension fully extended and the axle as low, relative to the frame, as possible.
3. use something to pull and hold the passenger side exhaust pipe to the left as far as you can without bending.
4. Disconnect the fuel lines.
5. Remove the bolts that hold the pump assembly in the tank (8 - 8mm bolts)
6. Cut the piece of tape on the wire loom that protects the wires as they go into the pump assembly. This will allow some extra slack in the wiring to maneuver the pump out of the tank, and around the axle.
7. Be careful to not damage the float while removing the pump. Just take your time and gently remove it. You should be able to get it down below the tank and easily R&R the pump or the entire assembly.
7. Reassemble in the reverse order.
8. I like to notch, you can even peen it over with a ball-peen, the hole where the filler neck goes through the inner part of the quarter panel, it makes getting it back in (and out again if necessary) much much easier.
Like I said I have done dozens of these exact pumps, for most it won't matter but with a little experience the whole process can be done in 30 to 45 minutes.
Hope this helps!
Oh P.S. for Joe Yoone - they went to the returnless system in 2003 (R&R is the same just one less fuel line). I didn't hear Paul mention the year on this.
Thanks for the tips T.J.!
Good job paul
Paul, Your live videos are the best. Hope to see more of these live diagnostic videos from start to finish in the future.
I know you are a "do it right" type of person but your content greatly out weighs the need for video quality. Thanks for sharing your knowlege & skill.
thank you! I like to think that too but the more video I do the more nit picky I become :)
Awesome video Paul!! Last night my wife made me choose between watching the Bachelor with her or watching "that scanner danner guy" by myself down in the basement. like I said awesome video.
The real world! Dead battery, outside, cold, snow covered car and a boot full of crap . but didn't cut any corners in the diagnosis. A lesson there in its self, one of your best videos. PS no snow yet in England.
Thanks man! No snow yet? That sucks, love the snow.
This brings back memories Paul, of my time fighting on these Miami streets. Imagine when it's 90+ outside blazing sun. It made me a more efficient tech, that's for sure. I'm grateful, but happy those days are over, and ppl can just bring me cars now.
It’s currently 15deg C where I am and I’m already cold. Watching your video made me feel so much colder. Love your videos.
Very helpful video, I'm about to dig into learning this procedure for myself soon---thanks for sharing your time and knowledge! I do chuckle just a bit at your walking back and forth getting tools---I do the same thing daily in my windshield business. I swear half my time on any job is retrieving forgotten or dropped tools. :)
turn the truck around
I really liked this video. The camera was just fine and I didn't think it was shakey. I really enjoy your videos, Paul.
Intresting to see a professional out in the elements. I enjoyed following along to see the end result.
We definitely appreciate it my man! I got a 02 ford E350 crank no start. Wiring is confusing as shit and I don't have any fancy tools. But I got no fuel pressure. The more videos I watch the dumber I get. Thanks anyway
Quit being a dumbass, dumbass! You sitting around watching youtube videos ain't gonna fix your van dumbass. You're fired!
Do you have spark? This will guide me on where to tell you to start with your no fuel psi issue
@@ScannerDanner Oh wow! Yes spark for sure 100%. So i might as tell you, the key will not crank. So what i did was turn key to on a shot of ether and a rag with gasoline right in front of the throttle body and jumped the the solenoid next to the battery and it ran and sounded good. I tried to jump fuel pump relay and got a tiny squirt out of the shrader on fuel rail but it didn't start and it only did it once. Now back to no pressure.
Good job failing to test everything properly you jerk. You heard the man, we are not in the guessing game. Get your shit together man geeez!
@@ScannerDanner Thank you for all your time you put into your videos and comments. They really do make life better for the whole world. I know you are busy. I'll keep studying your videos until I understand and can fix my Van. Dude I'm the same way as you with the thought process and listening to myself talk out loud so I can see what I'm saying except I'm just talking to myself lol. Direction would be great.
Once again great video. Good to see it from start to finish and the thought process. Thank you
I learn a lot from you scanner iam from mexico but i always watch your videos you give a lot to learn
Man I really liked this video Paul, thanks for all you do.
Hey Paul. Be cool to make yourself a wireless relay. Think it wouldnt be too hard and you could crank over the engine, etc, in the field alone. It'll probably change your plan of attack if you could smell the exhaust, etc. Maybe an old remote controlled RC car with its servos etc could be used for parts. Love your vids brother. Also, I made a simple transducer like the one you made that was attached to the fuel regulator. Those pulses I saw look almost the same as the one I made using a piezo transducer at Radioshack. Just wired it directly to the scope with some shielded line and used double sided tape to attach it to a battery clip. Produced oscillations almost same as yours. I always learn something new to add to my bag of tricks watching your vids. Thank you so much Paul. I wish I had you as a teacher 15 years ago.
Great tip! I had another guy telling me the same thing. I am going to go buy one for sure. Do you have a part# from Radio Shack for me?
I’m a ASE Mastertech and didn’t know about the cel going out while cranking indicates a crank signal. Learn something new every day.
This was a Ford thing only my friend. Just an FYI
Thanks!
Fantastic video Paul! We need more of these!
One of your best videos yet. The camera shots look great better than a GoPro which is a little bit too wide-angle for this type of work.
Excellent video in a tough situation! Shaking situation not bad enough to cause motion sickness.
That's my kind of reality show! Keep up the great work.
I like watching your videos because they’re interesting helps me find what’s going
This was a great video and I learned a lot! Crown Vic (and many Fords) do throw a code if there is a problem with the fuel pump. This even goes back to EEC IV. The PCM monitors voltage to the pump. It is simply spliced into the secondary side of the relay and into a pin on the PCM. I think the codes are P0231, P0232. Had one in memory the other day because I took out the relay to relieve fuel pressure.... Definitely worth to connect the scanner first on a Ford and read codes if there is a no start. Last Ford I dealt with had a bad CCRM relay- just .4V off at the fuel pump (unloaded) but couldn't deliver current to turn the pump. Pump was stuck because of the low voltage but after freeing it up it works fine now for months.
Just an owner and serious DIYer but find your vids awesome.
Wow! I just learned a lot here! Thank you for posting and thank you for having pride and accuracy in your work!
That was a great video as usual! Seeing actual field work from you is amazing :)
awesome, I'll do more like this then. Thanks!
Poking holes in wires isn't a worry at all, just tape/heat shrink it up after and all is good. Great video as always.
What is your technique for applying heat shrink on wire that is connected on both ends? I am only familiar with tubular heat shrink that you slip over cut wires.
Thomas Semich was speaking in general of poking a given wire, that's why "TAPE/HEAT SHRINK" was typed.
Nice work paul, have a great instructor like you is fun to learn. Thanks.
Come on scanner you know, I hope is first thing to check on Ford no start is the inertia switch. I love the response from owners when ya hit that switch and it fires up. My ole Merc is sensitive to shutting the trunk or back doors.
Another excellent video Paul. Up here in Canada its been -35 with the windchill some days and we often have to go out on service calls today to get trucks running. Of course the batteries are normally dead when we arrive too. I think a few of us would love to know a little more of your work background, where and how u started out and how u got into the mobile diagnostics business. I'm hoping one day to go down a similar path. A ScannerDanner history video would be awesome. Again man well done and thanks for all you give us!
I will need to do that for you guys. With every new class, I always give my students my work background. I will record it next time and put it up here.
It won't be until April though but I will do it.
I can't imagine working in that cold. We had our coldest day here in over 20 years a few weeks ago. It was -11F with a -35 to -40 windchill. They actually closed our school for it. We've been getting our share of Canadian air this winter for sure. It will be 0F tonight. Glad I have a wood stove! Love it so much
Watching this in July... 105 deg here in Texas today... that snow looked pretty good... haha. The tank in these Crown Vics is hard to get to. Thanks for videoing; I know it isn't easy and it doubles the time to do something...
Paul, one day can you give us a walk through of the tools you bring with you when you work in the field? It gets to the essential tools one would use for initial diagnostics. Today I was a little surprised you had a fuel pressure gauge, ha ha.
haha will do when I get a chance. Great suggestion.
good idea. but it never fails youll forget something that would make life easier. but with good essentials you can make due. paperclips are your friends lol
well done, love real world videos like these thanks danner
+Mark Von Achen thanks brother
I laughed pretty good when you went looking for the gas tank. Hidden up in there. Love your vids
Nice of you to plug Latorres Auto, it's hard to find good honest shops these days anywhere. And anyone watching you knows, if they are employing Paul to make a call that they don't have the time or knowledge to be 100%, they care about their customers and reputation.
the camera work was great i really liked it! Hope to see more of these first person views!
Sucks to work on it with a dead battery and pack but if you have battery voltage to the pump and there's no fuel pressure it's time to drop the tank (unless you have an access port which this car did not). I've actually had to do these tests too. They are a lot of fun playing detective. Great job. Love the slim head-mounted camera it worked out pretty well.
Paul, get a big 1000 CCA high reserve traditional lead acid car battery to keep in the back of your truck. About $100. Get a long (10 foot or longer) pair of heavy gauge high quality jumper cables. You'll be able to run a car off that for a long time, with lots of reserve for multiple cranking sessions. Along with your new jump pack that you just got recently, you'll be covered for everything.
+douglas “The flame is dead” lee lol, sure would
ScannerDanner I didn't see you thump tank to see if any gas first
Very good video paul,liked the constant live filming
Nice truck you have and great job detailing the no start problem
Great video Paul! Camera was great. I use video sunglasses while working (for my TH-cam channel). Your setup allows for better tilting, but mine is less obvious to customers.
Enjoyed your video. Keep them coming. No harm editing out the trudging about however.
agree. thanks
In the conditions your working the camera shots came out great in my opinion. Great work as always. I guess I'm lucky living in Florida, never have to deal with snow at my shop. If that battery had been charged you probably would have cut your diag time in half. I tell all of my techs to watch your videos. Keep them coming!
Thank you Brian!
Nice video, it reminds me of the first shop that i work for, full of cars and working on them out in the snow (sucks). It wasn't your fancy clean floors, nice waiting area shop but if you walk inside the shop you could find anything from your 80k mercedez
to your crappy daily honda and everything in between. I know a lot of people don't like the old looking shops but its not the looks is the people that work there and do quality job. I find it funny when they take their cars to the dealership and they just throw parts at it and can't fixt it, then bring to the shop and magically the shop is nice.
Dude you just blew my mind when you put the vice grips on the hood hinge!
tricks of the trade my friend. Thanks for watching
Great video Paul. Nice thought process.
Great video I got the feeling I was out there with you I could feel the stiff fingers out there. I am working outside to as a carpenter in 22F (-30C) I think you did a great job out in the snow. You do a great video job also. . Nice to have outdoors view at the landscape since I am from Europe.
cool, man thanks. I'll do some more of these for sure.
Camera work was great, very watchable. Great video, I really like your field videos, your earlier ones were great too but I saw you struggle having to hold the camera! Nice work.
cool, I will do more like this for sure. I am getting lots of positive feedback.
Glad to see you diagnosed the problem with 100% certainty, and that you didn't tumble down that hill. That would've been funny though.
You are very inspiring and I like you saying about being sure for 100 % what you are doing is outstanding
Radio shack number is 273-073. At fist it didn't strike me as a true piezo device. i had expected a more crystal like unit but this one truly does work and produce voltage on its own, so no op amps, etc, are needed. I think you could use a buzzer like the ones found in your multi meter because they look exactly the same and it makes sense that it would seeing that most transducers go both ways in that they can self emit voltage and have voltage applied to them and produce a waveform. i got a few of these little buzzers but haven't made a unit from one yet, but the Radio shack unit does work, and if you could provide a simple band pass filter I imagine you could isolate any stable frequency based emissions such as engine noises, exhaust, harmonics, etc, and use your FFT on your scope or a Spectrum Analyzer to correlate engine harmonics to the cycle of the engine. this has the potential to know the rate at which the event occurred during the engine cycle. IE, easily detect more complex engine mechanical noises such as wrist pin and other noises of a cyclic nature.
That Plug in the trunk is the rear air suspension diagnostic. It, at one point, had air suspension.
Hi Paul, that looked pretty cold there, brought back some memories of working in the cold, you must be a tough cookie, lose all strength and feeling in your fingers, lucky not to slip over the edge there, I thought it might have halped if Pete had charged the battery for you before you got there and chaged the power pack up, just make it a bit easier, anyway looks like you found the problem ok, pity people cant break down in the middle of summer...best wishes, great video thanks...Fred uk.
For sure and I usually make him charge the battery in these cases.
Great video camera work was just fine
Excellent video, thanks. My car - 98 Crown Vic - 37k miles - bought this winter at auction.
This winter it always started when cold, if hot I'd have to let it cool down then it will start.
Warmer weather now it runs half hour - 34# fuel pressure - pressure drops to 0 - engine dies -
voltage at FP relay drops to 0 in that order. Fuel pump? Today I'll check the wires in the trunk.
Only tools I have is pressure gauge, volt meter and 12V tester light. Thanks !!
One more thing: yesterday I ran it for 1 minute to back out of garage, wouldn't start again
till the next day. ????? I'm lost.
Bob, when it is not starting, what is your fuel pressure? (while you are cranking?)
This video may help you too. It is an older EECIV system but they didn't change the fuel pump circuit much on your 98 th-cam.com/video/Tq1m3vzdVjo/w-d-xo.html
Joined your forum, look under Oriley - 98 Crown Vic Fuel Pump for today's test.
Fuel pressure drops to 0 then dies and when cranking it stays at 0
Thanks so much, without this video I wouldn't have a clue where to even begin.
Camera work is kl, get to see it from first hand on the job perspective. Keep up the good work. Just got your book which saids a lot cause i hate reading lol.
variablethrust haha for sure. thank you!
You are in luck though, it was never meant to me "read", it is a field manual
great camera work, nice ** note about the ford pacific check engine light, I have seen like on later models such as gm Chrysler when fuel pumps are going out I would get fuel pump circuit A high of some sort..
great video, great effort and informative as always, Paul
Thanks for your explanations sir, I've learned alot from you.
Greetings from Boise ID. Sweet truck! Awesome work. I Like this tag along format. Can't wait for the next one:)
Good view with the head cam!
Man love this live video keep them coming
Man check the inertia switch if it is not popped, take that engine cover off put a pocket screwdriver in the Schrader valve, or disconnect the fuel line from the rail. Crank it over, if no fuel comes out, tell the customer they need a fuel pump. Sell it for 4 hours. Order the pump, while it is on its way, rack the vehicle up and have an assistant hop in.
Check the power and ground wires right before the pump underneath the vehicle by having the assistant crank the engine over while using a headlight bulb between those two power and ground wires. Make sure the bulb illuminated 3-5 seconds while cranking, if It does throw the pump in. 9 times out of 10 if not more, it is going to be the pump on an old crown vic like this.
In the rare case it is not the pump, use the 4 hours you sold the pump for to diagnose and find or overlay the bad wire. Customer wont be upset because wire is free so they will now pay less because they are not paying for a pump if it ends up being wiring. Yes it could be a fuse, relay, CMP sensor or CKP sensor but those are all cheaper than the pump as well.
Now the customer is happy because they got a quick response, and YOU are not wasting your time with this nonsense. Always start from the component and work your way back with electrical. Otherwise you are wasting time which equates to wasting money. BTW Yes it could be a PCM driver, but in the real world, the time you save by doing it my way is worth the risk.
And we finally get a rare glimpse of the coveted scannerdanner fuel pressure test kit (the whole kit, not just the guage). But why does this kit come with two separate guages?
One is a low pressure gauge I never use. These kits are not cheap that's for sure.
No kidding. There's no middle ground either, in regards to price and quality. I had an $89 harbor freight fuel pressure kit that was a total.... well lets just say I couldn't trust it. at all. I ended up replacing it with a $500 OTC kit. Probably overkill for me but at least I can trust it. No one can stop me know......
Thanks for difficult weather conditions car testing. Was not to clear what the relay adapter and control you used to check amps under hood. What tool is this? Also, just did a check on my fuel pump on F-150 truck and all manuals seemed to say start at fuse and work to pump. I tested at inertia switch wire to pump and verified voltage like you did in trunk. Good voltage then I know fuse, relay and inertia switch good. Then jumped to wiring at pump to verify still good voltage. My thought was if no voltage between pump and inertia switch I would then start at the fuse on back again. This saved me a few steps.
Hahah I enjoyed it I thought it was halarious. You should move to Miami you'll never have to deal with those conditions. Awesome video!
You should get a Lisle prop rod for hoods. They're dirt cheap I find myself using it all the time. Almost elbowing off a prop rod in my way once sold me on one.
i like my vise grips ;-)
G'day Paul. Very genuine and informative video. Keep up the great work.
Good on you, Bill, Australia.
Good job Paul. Hopefully i can become as good as you are someday.
I still have so much to learn! I think the best attitude to have is to stay humble. If you are not, these cars will find a way to humble you real quick. Right?
Keep at it my friend. You will get better and better the more you do this. I am in my 22nd year or so of focusing primarily on this subject.
You have access to the pump circuit from the top, measure resistance to see if the pump is in circuit from the top..
I already looked in to it, can't wait to get it,and Ty Paul 😀👍
Was fine scanner thanks for the effort.
Great video Paul!!! As usual!!
Roberto. Yes a power probe is nice bu you can't get current measurments with it which is what he was doing. Voltage readings on pumps are only half the story. But i do love my power probe. Comes in handy a lot....just not here.
In the late 90's there was a old man with a car like this one and in the trunk way up near the back seats there was a big tank. A cylinder tank that was for propane I believe and it was from Ford. The car had been sold with that. It would run on petrol but if there was propane in the tank it would mix it. With all my experience today I cant make any sense of that memory but its real.
Paul, correct me if I'm wrong; on this year/make/model of returnless fuel pump design, I believe there is a fuel pressure PID.
Well done Paul. The camera work was great. Latorre's Auto had you diagnose the problem - "HUM" - this was not a real hard one to figure out. Seems odd to me. C'est la vie
Steve. The garages that I work for, at times will not even look at these cars before I come it. It is smart business to handle all your other customers needs and let someone else do the troubleshooting for you. You know as well as I that if you do not do electrical and electronic troubleshooting ALL the time, that you will get your butt kicked and it will take you 10 times longer to figure out. Not to mention the equipment investment.
It is easier to call me, they mark-up my fees, so they make a little on the diagnostics and get to do the repair and be 100% confident that it will be right when they are done.
The check engine lights goes off when cranking and receiving RPM signal. Good to know. I was wondering if the RPM needle would move, but I guess not.
camera shots i think were good, and as always great video sir, thanks alot for sharing ur expertise, again thanks.
That’s what jumper cables for you should I head to hook up your truck with a set of jumper cables? That way you would’ve been charging the battery the same time you’re doing a test or you would’ve had a full battery
Dana you’re a pro
Was wondering where Latore’s is. I have friends down that way. I’ll steer them there since you do work for them SD. I’m out the Allegheny a ways and learning a lot from you man.
In spite of where the tank is on those, fuel pumps on those cars are actually pretty easy to replace. Get it up on a rack and it'll be obvious why. The only 2 problems you'll really run into is getting the fuel tank pressure sensor unplugged, and if they've got a bunch of gas in the car.
Thanks dmorley100 love your videos also!
I didn't know I had any videos, but thanks anyway!
Sorry i saw your posts on REAL FIXES REAL FAST and I thought you were the guy on those videos.
LOL!!! That's funny that you mistook me for him cause I do actually shoot the shit with him online on a somewhat semi-regular basis. I got family that's kinda-sorta close to where he's at, so one of these days I'm gonna meet the man in person.
Fuel pump went out on my 2003 Grand Marquis back in 2012. Shop charged $950 to drop the tank, drain the fuel, replace the pump, and put everything back together. There was 5 hours labor charged. How is that "pretty easy to replace"?
It’s usually alwyas relay two, well for all the ones I’ve worked with
love these kinds of videos!
You must be the best diagnostic teacher on this planet.One question what type of camera are you using to film this video. You remind me of my step son in Wanblee South Dakota working outside every day sub degree minus temperatures to support his family Between 1985 and 1996 I lived there also
Was this the one where I had a camera on my head? I don't remember but I hated the way this came out. Made me dizzy watching. Too much head movement and camera movement
I certainly and sincerely hope Pete has tech's that work for him. To me, it is not acceptable to allow an older man to work alone while the youths go out and get in trouble. If they are getting paid, they need to work.....hard. I was a god sent to my uncle and unfortunately a lot of these smaller shops are suffering, simply because the numbers of vehicles in need of repair far outweigh the number of credible techs. On another note, crown vics, sables, grand marquis, they universally share this set up on fuel pump circuitry for the most part. This is as real as it gets folks, I love it.
He has a lot of guys that help him out. Thanks Jarin!
I'm only getting audio out of the left channel. Either a stereo mic only recorded the left channel or whatever you are using to mix down in post production messed up the stereo stream. You can mix down a mono track to stereo and vice versa in most editing software to prevent this from happening again.
It was the audio jack of my phone. I use a mic connected to my phone and my audio jack is screwed up. Sorry about that.
ScannerDanner Just letting you know it can be fixed in post production. Simply duplicate the audio track and flip the channels from left to right, then export audio as stereo. OR turn the left channel only stereo track into mono.
Great video, watching your videos are like being back in trade school. Always learning new things and being reminded of things I have forgotten . I have become a huge fan of yours along with etcg, realfixesrealfast, and briansmobile1. For electrical stuff I definitely come to your channel first
Thank you my friend.
Great job, thanks again.
Thanks for teaching
Great post ScannerDanner. Have a general question that might help my fellow Chrysler Cirrus owners. Having an engine misfire and have changed pretty much all the ignitions components because it had been awhile since they had been done. Fixed oil leaking into spark plug wells by replacing rubber seals. Have changed crank sensor, distributor, spark wires, plugs and cleaned IAC, and; although, it is running better, it is still misfiring. My question is, how should an intermittent failure be tracked down when, by its nature will not always lend itself to be found so easily?
Oh, and the price is like 4 bucks! and if u feel up to it buy the Mosfet version of the 555 timer. With this u can make a universal driver with adjustable pules width and frequency. I use mine to do injector drops, or basically run any PWM actuator. It's easy to make and costs almost nothing. use an old 5 volt reg like the ones use you use to charge your phones in the car as your Vref. Because its part of the vehicle's circuit u can then use the car battery's to get the gain needed for the actuators. I saw your vid where u had the injector driver. I've bought thousands in tools when i was younger, and since applying more advanced electronics into my diag program I began making my own test equipment and now i cant believe how cheap and easy it is to do and how much i want to punch myself for not doing it much earlier. Im not going to comment on our tool guys either, but man I have ideas about what they think about us. try this and then let me know your reaction. Next time you pull out your Weize wand or whatever it's called, instead grab a long folded strip of tin foil and double foam tape it across a set of coils. try a four cylinder set up and make sure the foil doesnt touch ground. Then simply clip your probe tip to the foil and the other to your favorite ground. U can start with an attenuator just for safety and then take it out if it isnt needed. Dont forget to ground your scope chassis. Next time you hop on the tool truck you just might find yourself in a different state of mind.
Nice Work Dan,Warmer Weather would have made it easier to check for power at the pump, 1080p High Definition Safety Glasses Might Be of interest to you.
thanks!
I like this kind of video.