New Fuel Pump, No Fuel Pressure Diagnosis (Lincoln Towncar comeback)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Is it a comeback? What did I do wrong? Did the new pump fail after only 2 months? Here is the link to the original repair • Ford EEC-IV No Start N...
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Video breakdown:
- fuel pressure test 1:18
- testing for spark 4:46
- fuel pump relay testing 8:30
- relay to pump continuity test using a test light 10:40
- fuel pump tap test 13:29
- causes of new fuel pump repeat failures 15:08
- first check of power and ground at the fuel pump 18:14
- open circuit? must recheck with a known good ground 20:32
- testing the inertia switch 21:16
- direction change, importance of retracing steps 22:55
- known good ground retest of the fuel pump power 25:18
- open circuit identified, missing power to the pump 27:12
- where is the open? where does one start looking? 29:00
- visual inspection of the harness using the test light as a guide 33:17
- how to get paid on a "comeback" 39:00
- faulty connector identified 42:00
- connector terminal removal and tightening 45:16
- I am a dumb-ass 47:33
- pin drag test 49:00
- final thoughts 53:43
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
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I had a Scanner Danner moment today Paul. My son's 03 Envoy would not start many miles away from home immediately after he filled his gas tank. He managed to start it once and brought it to a part time mechanic that his grandfather recommended. The mechanic said it was 100% fuel pump but he didn't have a lift to change it out, I just dropped the tank on my 04 Trailblazer a month ago or so, so I reluctantly told him I'll be there to get AAA to bring it to my garage. In the meantime my son ordered, then picked up a fuel pump and filter for $375. I told him NOT to open any box or lose any receipts until I did more testing.
When we were getting it towed, 4 old timers were around including my in-law, who were adamant it was the pump. I tested for 2 power feeds at the relay, and bi bidirectionally ran the relay- confirming the PCM was doing its job. The old timers laughed and said "we told you it was the pump". I told em I believed them since there was no prime, but still wanted to check the power and ground directly down below. You can image the lectures and stories from the past I got from them for suggesting they might be wrong.
Anyways, today I jacked it up and was preparing to siphon some gas from tank to make it a little easier on me. When i got underneath, i noticed a ground wire on the side just below the drivers door that was located on the rustiest spot I have ever seen. I said to myself, that had to be it. I took out the PP4 and as soon as I tapped the area - the whole piece( the nut , bolt, and wire, metal from car) completely detached from the car. I put the PP4 directly on that and it read from 0.38v-1v.
Long story shorter, I cut the green crusties out, butt connected a 18g wire with new piece on the end. I had to choose a new grounding point so since I already had the crossbar( supports fuel tank) off- I chose those bolt threads. I used a grinder to get the bolts, holes and each side of the crossbar that comes in contact with the bolt and car rust free. I wrapped the connections and added a loom. Reattached everything and squeezed dielectric grease in between for waterproofing., and sprayed Fluid Film on the bolt to inhibit rust and corrosion. Jumped in the truck and what do ya know- It fired right up! Re tested everything....ChaChing- Items returned-money saved!
Thanks Paul, I owe you thanks for my knowledge. I'm now at the point where I just know where and what to test and how to interpret the results sufficiently thanks to studying your book and free/paid videos. Sorry for writing a novel in your comments, but this was a major breakthrough and proud moment for me.
Don't apologize for the long story, it was awesome! Nice job man, seriously cool stuff and I'm proud of you man. You are the one who made this happen for yourself. I just provided the methods and you did all the work. God bless you my friend.
Good job
@@PaulCTownsend If that was for me thanks. I guess Im not the only one doing some late night studying. LOL
a great novel Isshman! thanks for sharing :D
@@ScannerDanner What is that diagnostic tool called and where can I get it?
what a coincidence i have a 1996 lincoln Continental doing this same exact thing and the behavior of the car makes me think its electrical like this car ive learned alot from scanner danner
great fix. highly enjoy your videos great work keep it up boss
thanks for sharing. understand more
Alright man, I've been watchin you for some time. Absolutely love your content. Another rust belt warrior is always good to have in the pocket. And I seriously respect your commit to never quit. Was wondering if you had any old tools you'd be willing to sell cheap to a guy learning the electric/diag side of the trade. NE ohio. I've got 30k im my kit as of now on the hands on repair side. Starting to jump with both feet on the diag side. Apologies for commenting on a 3 year old video... never been one to keep with the times. Thanks for a top quality car diagnostic channel. Plan to purchase your book
all good man, thank you! I don't have any older tools to sell you but I can offer you a grant to shop for some diagnostic tools. Email me at support@scannerdanner.com and send me a screenshot of your comments and my reply and I give you more info. No catch here man, just have something in place to help others is all.
I sent the email.
@@willdavenport529 just replied 😉
Thank you sir. Seriously appreciate it. Any suggestions as what you think would be the best budget scope? Like a starter scope? Or would you recommend just going straight for then 4 channel pico?
@@willdavenport529 the uScope master kit! It's available on AESwave, but wait for Carlos to apply the match and get you that coupon. The master kit runs $400 and I'd be half off for you with that grant
Where did you get that relay tool I have the old type that you put the relay in the top and there's pins on the side I'd love to have 1 of those
You cand find them here www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html
On my AESwave affiliate page. Thanks!
Thanks man
Thanks!
Did you mean to do this twice?
At 57 minutes in, it’s also a regular occurring intermittent supply to the pump. Not good for the pump at all with all that back emf. (Electro Motive Force.). Cheers oh and by the way let the customer see the video to see the struggling that goes on in car repairs. Lol, not that much fun at times. Haha.
can't believe u guys give this thumbs down u guys r jealous haters
15 parts changers who dont have basic auto electrical skills and couldn't keep up
people who want to be shown what fuse to change or button to press to reset fuel pump , when they realise they have to actually learn something troubleshoot and test , thumbs down .
Could have hit inadvertently, I've done it plenty times myself
At 21:00 " Are you sure you know what you're doing?"-- nice one Caleb! These are always the hardest to explain, customer thinks we screwed up, boss thinks we miss diagnosed first time. You mentioned verifying fuel pressure after installing a new pump, it's also good to verify power and ground on new pump to make sure you are not dealing with resistance in wiring.
The twists and turns of diagnostics. I see a video that's almost an hour long and I think, I don't have time to watch the whole thing. But as usual the drama unfolds and sure enough, the time flies by. It's fun to watch the moment when you find the issue. The steps and process were interesting as well.
Even the best techs will have callbacks, and how they treat the customer and deal with it makes all the difference. This is a brilliant case study! Kinda reminds me of the turd cars I drive, ha ha ha. As you found the loose connector pins, I wondered if somehow you could have had an intermittent failure there that was OK when you were testing for power and ground at the pump originally. If the connection was OK when tested, you had no possible way to find it, especially if you tested with a 6 amp load, looking for voltage drops. I suppose one could have fed 12 V to the pump after dropping the tank, but by that point you've already committed to replace the pump. This one is a further reminder that you want to build as much evidence as you can before you replace a part. At a callback your documented evidence will be there to support you when smart-ass students ask questions, ha ha ha.
Great video I found your information really helpful I've been going to the same problem with my 94 Lincoln town car I've had to jump it many many times it cranks over but just didn't have enoughI could have been killing the fuel pump at the same time but probably the fuel pump was going out. Just got done cleaning my own injectors I should have done a continuity test first and check the fuel pump first will be watching your videos in the future.thanks
As a DIY'er who tries to do it himself you've taught me so much through these videos. Big thank you.
Awesome videos i have a question about a 1983 Pontiac Bonneville crank but no start I ensured there was fuel in the tank i have spark vehicle will start by adding a source of fuel in the Carb getting no fuel at the inlet line to mechanical fuel pump not sure if this vehicle has an intank pump it is a 3.8 v6
wow i would have changed the fuel pump, that is because I am a rookie and just learning!! but what a great job diagnosing this issue!!!! just like you told me to firs check the wiring on my o2 sensor before changing it, now I understand why even more!!! awesome work !!!
Someone is paying attention and its awesome
You didn't bring your power probe? WHAAAAT? I thought that you slept with your power probe, showered with your power probe, had it by your side at all times. I thought you had a concealed carry permit for your power probe.... Hey, thanks again for the free video. It was very informative and great to see you working with Caleb. I have two daughters so I never get to share my love of cars with them but at least they know how to check the oil and don't buy cheap gas and do the recommended maintenance.
Fourth cause might be contamination in the tank, rust, sugar, etc...to wipe out a new pump. Seen it on a few cars over the years. Great video ScannerDanner! Keep up the good work man.
yep, debris in the tank/clogged strainer sock is a common one too.
I was thinking the same thing. I just did a Jeep grand cherokee and when I pulled the old pump out i could see all kinds of black debris sloshing around the bottom of the tank. I had to flush it out completely.
Joe's Auto Electric Your absolutely correct about that sugar in the tank diagnosis. In my young and stupid childish days I messed up someone's vehicle with that trick.
Joe's Auto Electric AAx
@@BigD1395 Yeah my brother once dated some psycho bitch that recommended us to do the sugar down the gas tank damage to a neighbor we didn't get a long with. Low and behold, the psycho bitch does it to my brother on his old 1988 Sentra he had 10 years back. This was a grown up 30 year old ho with 3 kids that we took in our house and helped out with her kids. I had my brother junk the shit as a lesson to him. He barely knows how to change a tire and I wasn't going to to all the work for him. Lesson learned, he never dated another psycho bitch again. But if you were young when you did this, at least that's forgivable. But not by that person you did it to I assume.
If you don’t already have one, a non-contact tone generator would have saved you SO MUCH time on a job like this. I have the power probe tone generator. Last year I diagnosed a broken fuel pump wire that was grounded out on the frame. I spent a little while dicking around with a meter, but as soon as I hooked up the tone generator, it took less than 2mins to trace and and identify the fault. For me, it paid for itself on that one job. Nice work finding this one though!
I have experienced super loose things that gave me problems. Turns out it was pink too, just like that power wire. :-) Great job Paul and your son is a terrific camera guy/extra set of eyes.
You sure it wasn't round and brown.
Hey scanner Danner, i gave up before on several can't find a find a ground and made up a aligator clamp wire about 15 feet long and now its no problem on the rusty stuff. A perfect ground every time.
Ground, good battery that doesn't have a bad cell, bright and tight connections is the foundation of the "building".
After 5 min Defiantly the fuel pump wiring harness
Minute 13, he still doesn't seemed to be convinced... no wait, I think he might be .... nope, he was almost there. Don't bother watching the rest. He thinks he's the car whisperer
You must have a magic wand that tells you these things. Typical keyboard champion comment.
All of us here understand why this would be a separate problem and separate charge. However, having done some of this on the side for people, I can see where a customer may not understand it and may feel like you changed the pump in error and this was the problem all along. We all know here because we saw it but without the video evidence, and the failed pump as evidence, it might be hard to keep a happy customer. You may not end up being able to charge for this and keep your happy customer. That car will need more work so you may make more money not charging for the comeback on this and keeping them as a customer when the car, undoubtedly, comes back for something else. Just some food for thought.
On an older car you can expect almost anything. How many heat/cold cycles has that connector pin been through over the years? Very well done video Paul and Caleb.
I figured you charged for all this but wow thank you for your time and knowledge that’s awesome!
Jerry PEAL I did also, Paul is a very good man for blessing his friend Pete for sure!
A GREAT real world diagnostic video. Thank you for sharing, professor.
using an LED is stupid, you have to use a lamp
Great find Paul! You always have interesting case studies! 👍
Nice diagnosis guys! Gotta love it when it comes down to a pin in a connector. Thanks!
Clamp the aligater clip to the tool,then I use the sharp point to scratch a ground.
BUY THE BOOK Engine Diagnostics by Paul Danner
Thank you! www.scannerdanner.com
you can always clip the "test light" clip on to power side and try to get ground with the probe end. it's a bit easier to dig through the rust that way, but it still doesn't work perfectly either.
PAUL, great video and good info as always. thank you and cheeeeeeeers
That was excellent! Caleb and you make a great team :)
Niamh Healy yeah they do, don't they?
Paul, wanted to extend my thanks to you for this excellent video that you and Caleb did. I learned a bit on this one! Sure enough, I would have part cannon on that. But those is something I had problem occurring for quite a while, I had non functioning cruise control. I admit I part cannon on the switch and the control module itself. Didn't fix it. But I remember seeing your early video from years ago. Maybe 2 or 3. The pin on the plug going to the module was bad. I'm ashamed of myself for not checking the continuity or ground, open etc. At least I learned something out of this video. I hope I'll better myself in the future! 😀.
Could you use test light and go to 87 pump side of the relay box and check for ground there without the tool you have? that will determine an open like you fixed or an open pump, correct? Would it have shown the lower voltage at the pump when the open pump was replaced if it had been load tested with a head lamp or equivalent to the pump? could you use a volt meter on both sides of the load to determine if a voltage drop was present. Its understandable if it didn't show up that it was intermittent. Great job Paul and Caleb... Thanks guys..
Ah the real world of rusty cars and working out in the elements. Paul Danner - you're a real world trainer!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Brother. How you are not over 1million subs is a shame. But it’s more quality than quality.
Great video! Love watching the diagnostics and problem solving!
You get to work in Louisiana springtime weather. 80 degrees and 100% humidity.
jdmeaux hahaha!! 80*, 100% humidity, that's late winter in Houston!!
Try Phoenix AZ in the hundred seven Fahrenheit right now working off a dirt driveway. I long for the day when I can pour a slab just to do auto work for my own Vehicles on concrete. LOL
@@sanctealphonse4510 Texas outside in winter...not freezing but just cold enough to make working on vehicles uncomfortable
very brave @ 4:20 I well expected the HV to jump and bite you, while you yelped and squealed getting away form it :))
take the coil to wire off the distributor side and put the tester in that end and "ground the clip lead"! is this where I say "your doing it wrong" =p
This man is best machanic I ever bumped into ! He good
One test I like is an amp test on the load circuit (at the relay) to see if the amps are high meaning the pump is struggling conversely, if low then a poor circuit in or to the pump.
Hey professor it's jason. Thank u once again for a great learning experience. And I agree with u it won't be a comeback and u should get paid for it again. Separate issue. Thank u for ur use on the uactivate tool again. And for the Phil's probe tool. I got one and the first time I used it it broke. Likely defect but aeswave warrantied it and fast shipping. But I was using two hands to use it and seeing u use one hand made me go to a random car in the shop and start poking holes. Lmao. Oopppssss. Nothing liquid electrical tape can't fix 😂😂. Thanks professor and Caleb. Using the uactivate tool for ac compressor relay would it be the same principles. From ur classes on relay testing and understanding the theory and operation I know exactly what to look for nd how it works. By the way u made it seem so simple to understand. But if people buy this tool please don't buy it just to flip the switch. Don't cheat urself. Thank u god bless
Pig Tails......... Just more Junk made without quality Control, MAKE AMERICAN, BUY AMERICAN.....
All your Video's prove the Problems with Junk made out of other Countries!!!
Incidentally I troubleshoot my truck that was a give up on by Pep Boys. Hollywood California. It would have been headed for a junkyard. If I did not fix it myself. Pending a warranty refund.. 1 months into their one-year free parts and labor warranty. it was either the complete in tank unit was not changed. Which clearly it wasn't. rust on the pipes extending out . Which I requested. But was somehow denied.. And they did not. Or reason that very bad ground on black wire that went on frame rail... time money equation disallow them from pursuing further investigation.
“…there tiny little holes. I’m putting liquid electric tape afterwards so get over yourselves.” PRICELESS!!😂😂
inertia switch?
I'm not really far into this video yet but I'm going to say the fuel inertia switch can be a pain. i had an '88 Bronco II. Kept dying. I kept checking that the inertia switch was "engaged." After the 3rd fuel pump i unplugged the switch and checked for continuity. Nothing!!! When it got warm, the contact inside would bend away causing an open condition. SO frustrating, but i was so happy to finally find it. Ok, I'll finish watching the video now 😂
Bro.ur one of the best at trouble shooting that makes a real mechanhic not a parts changer..i got a 96 f150 5.0L fuelpump.the regulater new.used dist.replaced.check.vacum .fixed wires plugs ..want to remove egr.what kind off bypass the plug in????thanks i like the show
A man shud not have to b as smart as you to work on cars...... Ford's SUCK..,...I'm good with fuel pressure..filters & fuel pumps & a fuse swap
great work i love how you handle the issue
Good video. What brand is your relay tester? I'm having hell with a 90 f150 4.9 liter. Starts runs poorly. Fuel pressure at the rail is 0 while running. Removed gauge. Started up and pushed in the valve and my hand got wet but didn't feel like 50 psi wet. Connected gauge using hose manifold in my kit. Plugged one side connected to filter. KoE off little movement. After 10 times had about 20 psi. Best I got was 30 psi. Left key off gauge on for a while. Returned to 20 psi. Can't connect pressure filler due to no adaptor to fit the stab in fuel line connections.
We think it's Cool.. But MOST people could NOT care less!!! .. The owner just wants to know HOW long and HOW much!...It is COOL!! though!
I had brand new fuel pumps go out in a couple days parts are junk these days Nice video
2008 Nissan Titan se king cab knew fuel pump checked all relays fusses are good still no fuel turns over good battery good ???????
51:10 It's funny. You created a short circuit with the pliers when you squeezed the pin. It touched the brake line of the master cylinder. If it was a positive line, we'd be back to the blown fuse😁
I'd like to share an interesting situation I had. Tank was filled to the top, 1st click at pump. 60 odd Kms later car dies. Pump had gone even though it was making the correct sound. so I replaced and thought nothing of it. At next tank fill up car dies again after about 20Kms. A brand new pump and this time it wasn't even turning. Granted it was a generic. So I replaced again and this time I took greater notice of something that seemed odd the first time. A sucking noise coming from the tank when opening. The EVAC filter must be blocked with fuel from over filling. The negative pressure in the tank nuked the pumps. This shouldn't have happened but it didi because the fuel cap was not relieving the negative pressure due to a fault there.
I have an interview this week at a Chevy dealer I’m hoping I get it and will be able to afford your premium channel and as always great content
Good luck Jay
I wish you good providence Jay! Thank you so much!
Now you know what I have to deal with. Cars jacked up wherever they are and I have to roll around beneath them at customers houses etc. Mobile mechanic and scanner danders trainee auto electrician. Hey hang on. If I say that, he might want shares in my company. Ha ha
Great trouble shooter, I have a 1994 ford 460 7.5 L RV class B I can't Find The fuse or relay for fuel pump I just have #,s on fuse cover can you help me. THANKS phil
Ive never ran across a new pump being bad, although I have heard of it. But my first thought after replacing the pump and continuing to have no pressure would have me bench testing my old pump. Then the internal prongs... only because I have ran into that situation many times on my old ford trucks. Lol. New to your channel. Thanks for your video.
Non OEM PUMP? Aftermarket pumps are always a loser. Non OEM pumps almost always have high current draw.
Check codes for fuel pump circuit codes. Check the fuel pump relay test. Use a timing light to check for spark. Check fuses. Replace the relay if it doesn't click. Check for voltage at the pump wire coming from the relay. Jump the pump from the battery to the pump positive wire.
We Diagnostic Mechanics sometimes over think things..... I too do this, and costs me time, it's better to walk away and take a Break?
Thanks for all your Vids.....
LOng story short - Had at least a year old problem 06 Sentra and took it to a couple shops and didn't fix it . It was not revving up no matter if i floored pedal . It was gas pump and I went to junk yard got it for $34 including warranty . That was yesterday now running like a champ like new !! Yeah at very beginning suspected it might be pump but went with shop's recommendation . I trouble shooted it myself
Thanks learned a lot I'll check the video for the fuel pump. But 1 question. That tool took the place of the relay but how do you know it not the relay itself. ? Or am I missing something
Wow, a stuck closed fuel pressure regulator can cause a fuel pump to go bad.
This was one hell of a video, nice job Paul & Son......
sure can, the regulator being stuck closed causes way higher than normal pressure and nearly "deadheads" the pump, which means greatly increased load and very little fuel flow through it. the combination of fuel flowing through it and being submerged is what cools them! some cars will blow the fuse on hot days in that scenario.
also when the tank is low, they're only partially submerged and rely further on the fuel flow for cooling.
on single line systems the regulator is in tank or the pressure is computer controlled by varying pump speed.
throttle bottle
Thanks for your comments, very informative.
Paul.... Can A broken wire (ex..3/4 of the strands broken while still being able to handle minimal circuit completion to make it to or from the pump through the remaining1/4 of the wires) create a large amp draw on the pump cause the pump to burn out?
Any idea why the car has a problem stalling out ? My 1995 Ford Explorer also stalls out while driving at low idle. Thank you for another great and informative video. Best automotive teacher on the Web.
My fuel pump lasted a month. I have the 89 s10 pickup that won't start. What would happen if you removed the in tank fuel pump and put a inline fuel pump outside the tank. A Ford inline pump off a 87 Ford ranger and place a fuel regulator in front of it to decrease the pressure to 15 psi. You put a new pump in and you have to go through replacing it again because of garbage from China.
Тот самый Линкольн из бригады)))
😎
Thanks Paul!
Really good video
And. Good answer about it. Why’s the wires get bad. It’s. 1990 s. Town ✌️✌️✌️😁
The motor spinning slower does not change its resistance. The motor getting lower voltage would make the pump draw more current due to the power formula (P=IE; watts=amps x volts). For the same load (power or watts) the current will increase as voltage decreases.
@scannerdanner i need ur expertise to diagnose why my 96 silverado fuel pump isnt working...now ive tried to do thr test at the relay and jump it from 87 to 30 but i still do not have pressure...its a new pump grounds are good still nothing...where else do u suggest me looking??
Debris in tank, excessive alcohol content in older vehicles not E85 certified, failing to prime a new pump. Sucks to have to come back to same problem.
My 1990 Town Car had a wire problem on this same connector for another circuit. I just bypassed it.
Something up with that weather pack connector supplier?
Great video, enjoyed the logic and workflow.
Would have been faster just to change that wire put the jumper wire in. Since you said you didn't care. But you didn't stop. Because you did care.
I have similar problem with my 89 Mustang 5.0 convertible. Here in Southern California it gets pretty hot in summer. I would drive my mustang and stop somewhere like a liquor store and when I tried turning on the car, I would only crank but would not start. Based on all my testing and reading, viewing videos on you tube, it indicates that the problem may be the overheading of the starter solenoid. Eventually I bought a new starter since I had already replaced other electrical components that could have been the problem. Unfortunately I never got to find out if indeed it was the starter solenoid overheating at maybe over 100 degree farenheit under the hood on a 90 degree or higher summer day. I will be rebuilding the engine and installing the new starter before this coming summer. I'm confident the problem will be that the heat to the starter solenoid made the starter malfunction, not allowing me to turn on the engine. I'll soon find out.
I have a 99 mustang. I have no power to the fuel pump... red button in trunk is good. Fues and relay look good...what could the problem be ?help
Hi! I wonder if you could maybe give me some advice we have a 2003 Lincoln towncar nightmare I bought at a police auction it had no key the prev owners had tried to bipass the anti theft so I towed it to Ford dealer they made 2 keys and programmed them and then told me I had a bad feul pump so 550.00 later I towed it back home we changed fuel pump and fuel pump driver and cleaned the throttle body and cleaned the Iac and it now starts and will idle and you can rev it up from under the hood but if you get in and hit the gas it dies I recently bought a autel scanner but clueless on reading on it so far??? Any ideas
This video is so good for so many reasons. 3 years old, but the two videos in this series about the towncar are probably the best fuel system diagnostics teaching explanation I have ever seen.
Thank you so much!
Ive got to get one of those phil's electrical probes im getting two like you
By the way people i don't look like my profile photo i'm a lot older LOL. I have attempted to troubleshoot my google account in the past to up date it but lost patience rather watch SCANNER DANNER , Don't worry bought your book electronic and paperback Paul its helped me out a lot !! I worked on helicopters for 8 years to try something different now i am running my own shop in germany back on cars where i belong . We got an american community near by so I get a lot of BMW here they love them and they are 10 a penny out here Mercs too !! I work on US spec cars most of the time Jeep GM Ford Chrysler etc.
Im working with this shade tree eastern European Hungarian dude called ZOLLIE (real name ZALTAN) poker face so and so. We communicate in broken German . This guy specialise in BMW and he is good don't get me wrong but he needs to clean up his act a little. Zollie and I fix a lot of vehicles . There is a 2003 BMW 520i E39( M54 motor) Black wagon that nobody can fix its like some flood damage car that never seen water.. Its had about 5000 euros spent on it 2 engines new timing chains vanos injectors hydraulic lifters etc and even ZOLLIE cant fix it ! He has given up on it ... Now i am technician number 3 and i only spend money on this car when i can prove the parts bad. Its my daily driver sometimes i come out and it don't start and i have to be picked up . The car don't like to start after a cold night. This car has been parked for 4 years now ive got the job to fix it . The power supply problem which has left me hanging about six times its the least of my problems its the occasional back fire misfire low power etc the car is 17 years old . I had the PCM checked and it came back bad Zollie gave me another turns out it was for a 3.0 M54 motor apparently they are the same.
I have been watching SD videos for years knowing one day im going to get the night mare vehicle presented to me and its here with the black wagon. BMW 520i E39. I did shot gun one part on it though when it left me hanging one morning even after i tested it and it appeared ok. 35 euro brand new ignition switch was fitted didn't fix the intermittent problem but the sunroof did spring to life it never worked before.
The plus points the car is fully loaded for its time the HVAC works great , brakes steering handling comfort is excellent..
Big shout out to your son K for doing the camera work !!!
Hi I have a 2003 Durango 4.7 new heads gaskets timing chain water pumps all new sensors will not start and run no faults codes please help
thanks
What about a mechanical fuel pump on a Chevy 350 just put a brand new one and I can start the truck it'll start up but once I let off the throttle it dies please answer my question thank you
When working on cars, you can't develop what is called 'tunnel vision'. Just because you worked on one thing doesn't mean it's still that same circuit. It could be the timing chain.
Again, all these Pig Tails are made out of the Cheapest Material Possible, not meant to last, America is tired of being the Suckers!!!
Do you work at all 75 pickup trucks I have a 1975 pickup truck 5 million miles I have electrical problems go Allure
Danner, please cut that pin off both sides and solder in a jumper around the connector.
Possible over heated connector because of the fuel pump ?????
I guarantee you will have a case with my 96 caddy deville. I ran the codes, change parts, and still no start. It cranks, butt no start. Battery keep draining also.
every place there is a connection there is the possibility of a problem. imagine that :)
I’ve learnt so much from this channel. I’ve really stepped up my diagnosis ability. 👍👍👍
I was about to call you on the yellow locking clip but there at the last few seconds of video you replaced it back into the wiring harness clip. LoL
Oh man I've been jonesing for another video from ya. LoL
Brother I'd love to be able to subscribe to your premium channel but at the moment I can't. Ooh by the way thanks to you I bought an snap on ETHOS bi/directional/programmer.
I think I got a steak of ah deal, I believe when it was purchased brand new it cost like over $3,000 to which I purchased it for only $1,800. You think I got a good deal or no? I actually still has about 4 months of updates for it.
Working on mining equipment in Australia, you always seem to leave yourself open for comebacks, regardless of the job. I've had to explain to customers that if your operators stopped attempting repairs, without extensive knowledge, reoccurring issues would be minimal, and new issues would be minimised, and even with photographic proof, the difficulty is recharging for the same repair. Arguments always ensure and you just admit defeat but we will refuse to repair if the issue reoccurs due to operator interference or will repair but the hourly rate triples. Great educational vid. 👍👍
that sounds like a good way to get a bad rep. What you should do is explain what was different.. In this case, the connector could have contributed or caused the first fuel pump to die, however with the new pump showing proper pressure that means it was getting the proper voltage and connection after the first repair.. and being that the car drove for 3 months, suggest that if this connector had a problem back then it would be unknowable with the connector seated properly during the time it was in for repair and the following 3 months. It is indeed a separate issue billing wise.
I agree with you about using a test light vs a muliti meter. Sometimes when you have a high resistance connection, a mulit meter will register 12V but a test light would not. This is because multi meters have a very high input impedance so they don't "stress" the high resistance connection like the test light does.
Wish I had car problems, as this is very interesting. We have ‘99 and ‘04 Nissans and no action....
another good one Paul and Caleb. Just shows how electrical problems can be wiring more often than parts. Good one guys. Plenty of sweat at least there were no mosquitoes. ❤
Arthur Fricchione Yeah that would have made it absolutely miserable for those guys.
Not a comeback. Very lucky though, that connector lasted long enough that there wan't a bunch of ridiculousness with the customer. I had the same problem but the faulty connector was inside the hatch compartment. Part of my clue was that the fuel gauge was wonky too and on the same connector block. Furthermore, with the crappy replacement parts I wouldn't cut one inch of slack if it had been the pump again. Customer's choice to keep an old rust bucket like that. Too friggin bad I say. Pay me.
You should make a longer cable to hook to the battery when looking for a place +- to plug your test light into.
Next time take the wire off the distributor cap and put the spark plug alligator clip to the block. Lol