A note from a plumber here. There is an error in the installation of the outlet fitting in the diesel tank. The ‘O’ ring should be on the inside of the tank to be sure of a good seal. There’s a significant chance diesel could seep along the threads if installed as shown.
Hi it's far better to fit a stand pipe in the fuel tank , no chance of a leak , also mount pump max 2mr from tank ,pipe size from pump to heater should be hard nylon 2.5 mm Id, good vidio
Good instructional Video, few things you may like to add from my experiance. 1. Fuel line, pump and priming. The fuel pump does produce slight Vacuum to suck the fuel, however the pump only pumps tiny amounts of fuel with each pulse or tick. If the pump is mounted higher than the tank and or you have too long a line between the tank and pump the air in the line will expand when the pump ticks slightly as well as colapsing the hose wall then it expands when it stops preventing fuel from being pumped. To fix shorten the line and mount pump closer to bottom of tank. The pump can push fuel up approx 10 meters of fuel line and 3 meters high above the level of fuel in the tank. 2. The fuel line suplied is rigid plastic and small in diameter. You can replace the line between the pump and tank with a larger rubber line like in this video, but dont replace the line after the Pump. The fuel line after the pump going to heater is exposed and vulnrable to the enviroment and inside the van to being kinked or crushed. I recomend threading the thin fuel line through 6mm or bigger suitable rubber hose or fuel line to protect it. 3. If the pump is lower than the tank it will prime it self. 4. To silence the ticks, use soft EPDM rubber pipe insulation or strips wraped around the pump then use a rubber or PVC pipe saddle clamp, google heater pump rubber mount. I think your box idea was good but the rubber hoses comming in and out of the box where transfering the vibration to the plastic box and because it was mounted to the chassis amplified it through the floor. On a side note the heated exhaust on the heater can get hot upwards of 100-150c, mounting the heater under the bed like that could be a problem. I would place some rated glass wool insulation over the exhaust then some type of cover so the thin aluminum hoses dont get crushed. I think a fire risk to be exteam, more so malfunctions.
Out of all the videos on TH-cam about the installation, you are the best. You did a neat and clean job, you explained everything nicely, and you made it look like it was installed by a professional! Thanks for sharing this video for all of us! The most important thing that you are still doing, is answering questions from your followers after so much time has gone by, and in fact you don’t even own the rigg that it was installed in. Very impressive!
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Here is a tip, put some clear soft pvc hose over the hard white nylon fuel line and then use insulated clamps to mount the fuel line. I hope this helps you. Keep up the good work and stay safe and charged
Just came back to watch this demo again ( because there was something I wanted to check on) and I have to say I think it's one of the best, clearest demos I've seen yet. I've liked and subbed in case you embark on another mission that I want to know about. Cheers from Brisbane.
I have had one in my van for the past 4 years with no problem, something you can do it add a cap of desiel cleaner in you tank, I use a 5L tank ( the type you would put in your van tank ). I also have these for heating the lower floor of my house here in the UK.
Used one in my caravan since start of pandemic. I’ve been using my caravan not only to go on holiday but also as a work from home office. Its sometimes used for up to 12 hours a day through the winter and it’s been fantastic…..no chance of me using the 2000w heater in my caravan at todays energy prices.
@@GetCampingOz Thanks for all the Great info. I am Half way through my installation .Fitting the Exhaust---- When i clamp the pipes to the muffler and to elbow i can not get a tight fit it does not clamp on . only to the outside fitting -- not sure how to fix this... Also the Muffler when you hold your hand over one end and blow through the other the Air escapes out of gaps at each end near the intake and outlet also at drain hole at bottom , As the Muffler is positioned under the van think a lot of exhaust could build up under the Van , Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Joe
@@joemak8629 Hi Joe, No problem at all. Sounds like your kit might vary slightly to mine as I didnt have any of those issues you are experiencing with your install. There is lots of different kits out there with slightly different changes to how they are installed. The exhaust pipe should clamp slide over the neck of the exhaust outlet of the heater and gets secured with a metal hose clamp. The other end of the exhaust pipe should then slide over the muffler end and clamp on. The other side of the muffler can have another extension pipe added if needed. The drain hole on the bottom shouldn't allow too much exhaust gas out providing the muffler is flowing properly. The exhaust should always exit the side of the van so that there is no risk of fumes accumulating underneath. Hope that helps! :)
I bought a £85 5Kw heater for my van and 2 years later it's still going strong. If it only lasts 4 years, I can buy 10 of these for the same price as a Webasto
Love the idea with the flange. Mate I have just installed a heater and in my kit there was a rubber mount for the pump That I’ve mounted straight to the chassis rail and I can hardly hear it. Definitely worth looking at 👍
Just came back in AGAIN to check out the start up process after the install. watched your demo diligently, wrote down the instructions to follow, and hopefully all will go well. have a few trips coming up where I wont have a powered site, and it's going to be cold. Cheers
@@GetCampingOz . A sparky mate of mine came over last night to wire everything up and then he fired it up, works like a dream. He just winged the startup process and he reckons he may have overdone the priming thing, because we could hardly see the house at first 🤣 but it settled down, eventually. there was moisture coming out of the muffler, which I thought was just condensation, but it was diesel, so he must have flooded it on the prime. Anyway, it settled down and on the high temp, you would be ripping your clothes off. turned it down to the lowest setting and it was beautiful. just as a trial run, I fired it up an hour ago and it just went perfectly. I'll be needing this in Stanthorpe at the end of the month.
You’ve got the fuel filter the wrong way around. The thinner bit is the collector chamber and that then feeds fuel through the thicker collar. Basically, the thinner part should face the tank.
FYI I’ve fitted a few of these heaters. My latest one is exactly the same kit as yours. Now re the position of tank/pump etc, I have my tank on rear bumper of caravan. My van is 21’6 and the pump is approximately 5-6 meters away from tank. I’ve used rubber fuel hose instead of the transparent line you get with tank and also a Ryco filter. I’ve run the heater for 4 consecutive nights for approximately 8-10 hours each time without any issues at all. I believe this kit/heater which is the same as yours is the better one out of all I’ve had previously. Great vid by the way.
I seen a comment on another video that somebody made about a top feeder for the fuel by going through the top of the tank and let the hose sit on the bottom because if you need to replace the tank or take it out then having the fuel line at the bottom allows leakage but if it's at the top it won't leak at all. I kind of like that idea more than bottom gravity fed
Yeh that’s a great idea. I am looking at changing the tank over so it is top fed. Mine hasn’t leaked but it has always been in the back of my mind. Cheers Adam
@@GetCampingOz I'm buying a E250 extended van from my boss and I'm going to strip it out then insulate it and do a build on it. That's what I will be living in from now on. I've been living in a pickup truck the last 3 years in the cab which is an extended cab with the seats removed except for the driver seat. The truck hasn't driven in a while since it has a blown head gasket so I have it parked at my boss's shop with an electric line from inside for the last 3 years to provide heat in the winter with a small heater and a fan in the summer to cool me off. My entertainment is a flat screen TV and an Xbox One. I have no ambition to ever live in an apartment and unless I win the lotto I won't be buying a house cuz I'm not doing a mortgage. The whole real estate industry is crooked as the Mississippi River. These Super Rich bastards keep buying property for more than what it's worth so they don't have to pay taxes and it has driven up the price of Real Estate and rent throughout the country. That's why I hate the rich greedy bastards just can't get enough
Hi great video I mounted our pump in the supplied mount and then onto a small mount from Bunnings The pump is under the Van directly below our bed. We can’t hear it at all. This works a treat and easy to do
I got it from Bunnings It is Goliath Goliath 30 x 40mm Dome Cylindrical Rubber Isolator If you like give me am email and I’ll send you a photo of how I used it
Right, mate- I've just come upon your video on my 'HOME' page. Probably due to me very recently ordering a 2KW VEVOR diesel heater. This is a brilliant video, liked and subscribed. I'm in Ohio USA and have an old Ford truck with a tall camper top. I plan to build an extension from the cap over my tailgate (this is legal). I'm thinking of trying to install the heater inside a compartment at one end of the tailgate inside the 'new addition' and the fuel tank beside it in a separate area that is plastic lined with a tray under it as suggested. If I mount the heater on brackets raised up from the compartment floor I thought that the air intake tube would be unnecessary. I could utilise air from inside the interior of my tall truck cap if a few (2 inch- 5 cm?) holes are drilled into the interior side of the camping truck cap area. Ta, mate- right champion!
I’m thinking of a similar noise solution but I’m going to line the inside of the box with sound deadening mat and mount the box to the frame via vibration padding used for transformer installation.
you can wrap some sound deadening material around the pump. the more weight you add this way, the less sound from the pump ! I used Alubutyl and that really makes a difference.
I just wish that the installation videos by people spent more time on the wiring. The hardware is easy to understand and follow. But more info on the wiring package would be great. I think that I have it right up the fuse, as there is only one wire from the fuse to go to the batteries JBR
Thanks for feedback. There isn’t much with the wiring, it’s literally a positive and negative to the battery. Nothing complicated at all. The other end of the loom just plugs into the display. Hope that helps
You might try to install your box into another container like a plastic container and fill around inside with rockwool of fiberglass this will help quiet the noise as well as the sound. let me know what you think.Charlie AKA Dismas
Great video and well thought out install. I mounted the fuel pump on rubber straps (similar to tyre rubber) like you say, the ticking sound will always be there. Thanks for sharing.
Just a couple of points. The pump. It will lift fuel by about 50cm - so no problem with most installations. There is also no pressure involved, so the pump to machine distance will not be important for your installation. Secondly, the pump ducting. The exhaust length is limited to about 2m (and limited to 270 degrees of bends, I believe). Any extension should be of a larger cross sectional area. The combustion air ducting is likewise limited in length (without increases in diameter). These limitations are to ensure the resistance, to gas flow through the system, will not be excessive and will allow complete combustion of the fuel. The warm air ducting is likewise limited in size, length and number of bends. That one fan shaft shifts all the combustion and warm air, so should not be overloaded. Not important for a simple installation, but many ignore these limitations - probably because they don’t know they exist! They are likely the ones who get trouble and blame it on the heater.🙂 BTW, the machine will be using that approx one amp all the time, while running normally (excluding stops and starts). Overall a good video on how simple these machines are to install and use. (Plug that small hole/slot in the base plate if not required). A CO monitor/alarm is only a few dollars (for up to ten years protection) - not a high price to pay for your safety, even though the risk should be low.
I have a 24v model and a 240 to 24v 6amp supply linked into bus electrics for when running on mains... That should be enough to run the unit, including start?
@@winzracingNZ The typical maximum starting power of these heaters is usually around 120W. A 6 amp supply at 24 volts would/should be adequate because that is 144W. However, a 1 or 2 amp power supply, with a battery as buffer, would be far better as a) it would be better matched to the average power used and b) the battery would offer protection in the event of a mains power failure. One amp would likely be adequate (if the heater is generally run on limited output power) and two amps if it is generally run at or close to, full power. Most buses (apart from the ‘mini’ versions) operate on 24 volt systems? I would expect a 6A power supply, connected to the bus electrics might ‘fight’ against the usual battery charging system (from the mains supply). More thought required, perhaps, as it may not need an extra power supply at all!
The unit I am playing with now is an all in one setup. I am planning to install one in my truck. I saw one of many tips I will use and that is to install a standpipe (purchased separately). and drill the holl in the top of the tank then run the stand pipe about 1 inch above the bottom. The benefit of the standpipe is that you don't have a hole in the bottom of your tank that could fail someday and cause problem. in your case the hole is too far from the bottom of the tank when it is mounted at an angle (I think). thanks for the video. I bet your bed stays warm from the heat that bleeds off the warm air ducting.under that bed.
We got our Chinese Thermomate 5kw heater from Edison's and works a treat. We have a 22'6" van so should be able to run it on a lower setting most of the time.
@@GetCampingOz ...Hmmm...I might have bought one that might be too big. I've only got a 17 ft van, so I hope I can turn it down to a usable level 🤔 I got a 5kw.
@@GetCampingOz nobody has measured freezing (below -5c) intake temp, what happens to output. Or what does the heater do in min power, or but it to youtube
Great video with clear instructions thanks mate. My wife put me onto your channel, and I'm glad she did. I am a neat freak with any install - always taking a lot longer to plan a job than to actually do it. As you have said, I also spend a lot of time researching things online, and especially TH-cam. A couple of questions or comments: 1. Was there an o-ring on the inside of the fuel fitting? Couldn't quite see - obviously there was one on the outside. Always best to seal fuel on the fuel side, not the outside (for newer diy enthusiasts). 2. I'd suggest having a tray (bund) under the fuel tank in case of spills. One spill with diesel will mean you'll smell diesel in your van forever after. 3. I'd certainly recommend putting the entire fuel line inside a protective cover - exactly like you would with electrical cable. Seeing it's a soft fuel line, a hard cover like flexible electrical conduit would be perfect. I'd place the filter right at the fuel tank, where you can see it, and inside the bund, in case (when) you need to change the filter on the road. Then you don't get fuel in your van. This also works with the entire soft fuel line being inside a conduit - can't do that if there's a filter in the way 👍. 4. Noise is essentially a mechanical connection. Mount everything on a soft mount, including the pump box. Try soft coil springs rather than rubber, which won't do much to decouple the noise energy.
Thanks Rod. Yes there was an O-ring on the other side of the tank fitting. Great advice about the bund under the tank. I may change the tank to a boat tank with a quick release. That way when the weather gets hot I can remove the tank altogether. I’m also looking at using some exhaust hangers for the pump box as well. Cheers
Great video. You are a talented teacher! Thinking we will now mount ours at the front of the van rather than the back (under the bed). Thank you again.
Saw a sound engineer compair foam and various other sound deadening products and what wone hands down by a country mile.....a beach town folded in three. I've wrapped mine in one and it sounds very faint indeed. Like a heart beat, and that's with it next to the hot air duct right by my head, also make sure the fuel lines don't touch the van anywhere, clamps are unavoidable. Hope that's helpful
I just got on today going to get it installed on Monday or Tuesday that if the weather is dry. My mate have one in his caravan but not this one I pay £160 for it so I will let you know when it is fitted in my caravan
I'm almost about to install, how did the box go for the pump to silence the noise ? Was it worth doing / would you do anything different ? Good video too
I ended up changing it out and suspended the pump and it made it super quiet. Vibrations were being transferred through the chassis rail. Hope that helps
I installed one into my caravan and within a few months the sensor failed and the fan wouldn't turn off without being disconnected from the power supply. If I had to do it again I'd pay more for one of the mid range Russian units. It also put off a plastic smell that my wife hated and it would use surprising amount of battery too.
Oh that’s no good! Ours hasn’t had any issues and it’s been installed for about 18 months now. We have a new van now and just fitted a gas unit which I will have a video out soon!
Helpful hints. I couldn't find a place to install the original plastic fuel tank. So I made a bracket and bought a cheap metal tank. Installed it on the front of the A frame. Please keep the videos coming. Cheers Andy.
Yeh I have tried that but it didnt seem to make any difference. Im still looking for something to make it quieter. I have seen the silent pumps in the UK but cant find out where to buy them. Cheers
Great instructional video. Most TH-cam videos I have seen the diesel heaters have had two pieces of ducting( one for cool air in and one for warm air out). Mine only came with one for the warm air out. My plan is to mount it under the dinette and just put a cabinet vent near the cool air side to allow air in. Hopefully that’s enough. Secondly seems to be alot of talk about the pump being noisy. Thought I might mount the tank in the front tool box and mount the pump under the tank in the tool box. Thinking that will isolate it from the van abit and reduce the noise. All in all everything looks fairly straight forward. Thanks
Thanks mate! Yeh not sure on the two pieces of ducting. I’ve fitted a few to friends vans and all have only had the one. You can only try the pump in that location. If it’s too noisy then you can move it. I’ve actually ditched the box and used just the rubber mount and it’s heaps better. Thanks for watching
Stephen Pitt . That's exactly what I have done, Stephen. I have the fuel tank (not the plastic one supplied, but a stainless steel one I bought on E bay, much better quality and has a fuel gauge.) Mounted in the front boot, then mounted the filter and pump straight under the fuel tank, with the fuel line (proper fuel line) running down through the drain hole in the floor of the boot. I have the fuel pump mounted on the wall of the boot with a screw, as provided, but if it still sounds a bit noisy, I'll have the rubber suspension system as a backup. I'm half deaf, so probably won't hear anything 🤣 But I have some mates who are a bit fragile lol. I would love to hear how yours worked out since My install is probably a carbon copy of yours. Any tips would be appreciated.
This is just a thought I've had...since ever u-tube ticking fuel pump is a concern for a reply on the viewers thoughts.. mount the fuel pump on a pole and put it beside the Unit when parked..Like the way I have done...O and fuel tank. So one day I may put the fuel pump with the rubber tube extensions...... sticking out of the concrete brick in poured around the fuel pump Note do not for get to attach your DC line to the pump before pouring concrete lol... Thanks for the share on a random view I appreciate the people that post. Things of my interest Curtis Off Grid thanks for Solar and Internet I'm out there ,,
Got one for auction looks exactly the same. Win mine at auction for 122 on auction., very ticky pump on low but don't here it much on higher setting. 10lt kept my 2 bedrooms warm for a week on lowest setting on auto 25degress, air comes out at about 60degrees plenty of air flow and cheap as chips to run.
After reading all these comments, I have decided to mount my fuel tank in the front boot of my 17 ft. Oasis pop top van. I will make a little secure shelf for the fuel tank (not the provided one) but maybe a small outboard fuel tank (removable). I will mount it as high as possible and have the fuel pump immediately under the fuel tank giving it a gravity feed to the pump (also mounted inside the front boot) eliminating any priming problems. Would it be a good idea to install another vent plate where the unit inside the van is installed to circulate the air from within the van, instead of just circulating the air that is under the bed ?
Run your fuel pipes and wires through a partitioned re-openable electric conduit, fuel in one, wires in the other or better still, use two separate circular conduits. Protection against rubbing, and stones, and easy to fasten to anything and avoids sharp metal.
Thanks Mike. Great tips! I’ve actually put the fuel line in a clear tube to prevent noise transfer and it seems to work quite well. Thanks for watching
Question, I have a sienna mini van and i kept hearing the 5k would be too hot. so I got a 2kw like yours and now hear you have to run it on high to heat my van. How is the heat output on this and do you have to run it on high to keep warm?
Yeah, I too didn't find a single example of a fire or injury from these. I did find people complaining about poor reliability, but most of those you could put down to poor installation choices and execution. I think this would also be the case if you badly DIY installed a $2500 Eberspaecher. The chinese clones of the Webasto and Eberspaecher are very good. Interestingly, some camping places rebrand the cheapies and sell for upwards of $800. (Although you can assume that there's some better local support and warranty with them) I've got a spare pump and controller stashed for mine, but may never need them.
I agree Neil. The most problems that I hear people complaining about are exactly as you describe. They are very simple in design and not much can go wrong 👍🏻
HI Mary, the wiring I chose not to go through the bottom plate as it looked to close to the exhaust. I drilled a separate hole and fed the wire do it and then silicone it up. The battery connection is just a positive and negative connection.
You mentioned using a bigger power feed wire (s). As the feed is via a plug in connector, surely a larger wire can only be used to the fuse? Great vid👌
My tip of the day, when you tighten your chuck up tight by hand twist it back the opposite way until it clicks, this will lock it and stop things coming loose on the chuck and flying out when the brake engages or when you change direction.
I’ve been running it in the box for about 6 months and never did it heat up. I’ve since removed the box as I found it actually increased the ticking sound. Cheers
I note that diesel heaters are available in different Kw heating capacities. Have you found that 2kw was adequate for your caravan? What size is your caravan?
Hi Phillp. Thanks for the question. Yes 2KW seems to be fairly suitable for our van. Its a 17 foot Jayco Stirling poptop. I recently fitted a 5KW system to a mates van but his van is a 22 foot Jayco. I have heard people complaining about the 5kw systems getting too warm, and they have to open up the windows to let some heat out. Both systems havent Ive fitted, havent experienced getting too hot. Thanks for watching :)
@@olegs_vacija I guess it depends on quite a few things. How large is the space you want to heat? Is it insulated? etc etc. I'm living in The Netherlands and due the energy prices I installed one in a unit besides my home, to heat up my living room. I have a larger one and when it was freezing outside, the temperature inside was 20 degrees celsius and that was at 60%. The living room is 6m x4m and 2,5m high. My house is semi-detached from 1954 and I'm living at the countryside of The Netherlands so you can bet on it that it can be really cold. The price difference between a 2 and 5kw isn't that big (sometimes you can buy a 5kw even cheaper). I have no regrets by buying this, it saves me tons of money already.
Hey Rob, I’ve just checked and the eBay seller no longer sells this heater. I’m pretty certain they are all the same - just check that the fuel hose in the nylon one and the controller is the newer type with the remote. Cheers Adam
Hey mate, 2 years on hows it faired? Stood up to the conditions? Im looking at purchasing one of these. Keen to see how its lasted you. Cheers! Great video by the way!!
Hey Josh, yes no issues at all. We just fired it up last month as we had a cold night and it started straight away. Hadn’t touched it since last winter. Definitely a great option for budget heating! Thanks for watching
Regardless of the brand, your install was informative and pratical. It seems these heaters can be cheap and perhaps nasty ,who knows or expensive and German. ACH made in Der Fatherland. I. Honestly can't see the intrinsic value in a heater for the best part of $2000 but on the other side of the coin the Chinese make things that look good on the outside . Will it last, that is the question. Thanks, I really enjoyed the video
Honestly I could not tell you. All I know is it uses not much. We have been away a heap of times and used it most nights and I still have some fuel left from the first tank. They are very efficient
@joemak .Im about to install in my Jayco Dove Camper .if i look under the floor the exhaust will be underneath the Van enclosed by the underfloor frame also the air intake . Would think its not a good idea ,does the exhaust need to be feed outside somehow. Please Help
The exhaust should be located on the outside of the van with the exhaust exit pipe on the edge of the van so that the fumes dont accumulate underneath the van. The exhaust should have an extension pipe to allow this. Hope that helps
@@GetCampingOz Thanks it does help, Have looked at a few instructions on Y Tube and they all put the Muffler on a short exhaust-pipe under Van. Think it would be easier to fix muffler under van then extension pipe from muffler to outside of van. Does that sound OK
Also i was thinking to put Fuel-tank/ fuel Filter / then fuel pump in front -boot of my Jayco Dove .then running fuel line to the Heater, would this sound ok . i dont think it would make any more noise than underneath van ,all instructions i see have t he fuel pump underneath would this work, Thanks Joe
@@GetCampingOz Hi forgot to ask . I have bought the Black fuel line (icon-series)Fuel and emission hose id-5mm SAEJ30R7 it seems to be the same as the one that is used with the White nylon line .Wouldn't it be better to run this all the way than connecting a short piece to the Tank/filter /pump/heater and using the white line in-between ???
Thanks for the video, Can anyone tell me if the 2kw heaters constantly use the 12v battery whilst running, or is it just used when first firing up. If it does use it constantly then how likely is it that it would flatten the 12v battery.
Yeh they sure do. The battery provides power to the controller, power to heat up the glow plug on the initial start and power to the fan that blows across the body of the heater. Once it’s running, the current draw is around 1-2amps but on initial start up it’s around 10-15 depending on the heater. You will definitely need some ability to replace the charge lost if you are running it at night. A good small solar system will keep up with it. Thanks for watching
Hey mate, Quick question re your video. 1. What was the size of the second holesaw under the bed for the vent? 2. Did you drill a whole in the floor of the boot for the fuel line or was that the drainage hole? 3. What did you use for the sound proof box or what did you buy? 4. What was the size of the hole you drilled on the bed where the face plate went for the display?
Hey Jodi. I think it was about 65mm. I have a few sizes and just matched the vent up. The boot floor hole was just the drain hole 🕳 The box I used was from Bunnings. It’s Deta brand box. In the electrical section near the conduit. The size hole for the controller was about 25mm. I just used a step drill until the plug fitted in the hole. Hope that helps 😀
Hey mate, where did you get the black fuel line from? The supplied clear line for me isn't long enough so was going to go black fuel line from jerry can in back of van, to filter and down to the inlet of the fuel pump like you did. -edit- noticed you wrote it in the video 😂
Fairly common error to locate the fuel pipe on the bottom of the tank. In time, the seal will perish and diesel will spill all over your front trunk.... and that smell can be a bastard to get rid of. A hole in the top of the tank, and a fuel stand pipe fitted is the perfect way. If the seal perishes, no leaks. Simples.
@@paulmaxwell8851 ...Yes. Watching all these comments has made me decide to ditch the provided fuel tank and get maybe a small outboard tank, or one with a stand pipe. wouldn't be too happy smelling diesel continually.
Hey mate, not sure of the make. It was purchased from eBay. Seller no longer sells heaters. It has been brilliant with zero issues. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Hey mate! It would depend on a number of factors such as temp, settings ect but Based on my own experience with the heater, I observed between 150ml-300ml per hour depending on the settings. Hope that helps
The vent is about 300mm from the edge of the bed so it should be fine it would just make the sheet really warm. Any closer then i think it would be a problem. Thanks for watching
You don't have to follow the directions on the fuel pump angle and drill hole on the bottom of the fuel tank. As long as your fuel pump is at 45° or straight vertical, that will lube the pistons. The fuel pump is plenty powerful to suck the diesel from the top down. The O ring will eventually fail. You'll have a huge mess on your hands or fire danger.
I’ve set mine up so it doesn’t protrude past the body of the van. One thing that will always change is the wind. Even if you had it stick out past the van, if the wind is blowing towards the van it will carry the exhaust fumes underneath anyway. Biggest thing to make sure is that it’s way from anything that could get hot. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@GetCampingOz my main issue is the length supplied. Just wondering if it is necessary to extend it away from under van or not critical due to reasons stated?
@@mattsmith2051 the length they supply is fairly short. You can extend the exhaust by adding an extra section to the end of the muffler. IMO as long as you can get it close to the edge it shouldn’t be issue.
Thanks for watching. These are constant output based on the setting. I have heard you can buy a controller that can be set to maintain a temperature. Hope that helps.
You are using a 2 KW heater, winter just finished there did you like the smaller size? I believe that I may of ordered too large of a heater for my Pick-up bed camper. How large is your camper (caravan), sq. meters are OK? How cold did it get while using it, Centigrade is OK, I will convert?........ Thanks
Yeh the 2kw unit was more than enough for our 17ft van. Any bigger it would have been too hot. In saying that our winters aren’t as cold as yours 😀. We get down to about 0c
@@GetCampingOz I think that I need to get a 2 KW. We don't camp much below -8c and then that would be at night time in the Colorado mountains 3000-4000 meters.................Thanks
A note from a plumber here. There is an error in the installation of the outlet fitting in the diesel tank. The ‘O’ ring should be on the inside of the tank to be sure of a good seal. There’s a significant chance diesel could seep along the threads if installed as shown.
Thanks for the tip. I have since changed the it around. Cheers
Mine came with one on each side
Hi it's far better to fit a stand pipe in the fuel tank , no chance of a leak , also mount pump max 2mr from tank ,pipe size from pump to heater should be hard nylon 2.5 mm Id, good vidio
Good instructional Video, few things you may like to add from my experiance.
1. Fuel line, pump and priming.
The fuel pump does produce slight Vacuum to suck the fuel, however the pump only pumps tiny amounts of fuel with each pulse or tick.
If the pump is mounted higher than the tank and or you have too long a line between the tank and pump the air in the line will expand when the pump ticks slightly as well as colapsing the hose wall then it expands when it stops preventing fuel from being pumped.
To fix shorten the line and mount pump closer to bottom of tank.
The pump can push fuel up approx 10 meters of fuel line and 3 meters high above the level of fuel in the tank.
2. The fuel line suplied is rigid plastic and small in diameter.
You can replace the line between the pump and tank with a larger rubber line like in this video, but dont replace the line after the Pump.
The fuel line after the pump going to heater is exposed and vulnrable to the enviroment and inside the van to being kinked or crushed.
I recomend threading the thin fuel line through 6mm or bigger suitable rubber hose or fuel line to protect it.
3. If the pump is lower than the tank it will prime it self.
4. To silence the ticks, use soft EPDM rubber pipe insulation or strips wraped around the pump then use a rubber or PVC pipe saddle clamp, google heater pump rubber mount.
I think your box idea was good but the rubber hoses comming in and out of the box where transfering the vibration to the plastic box and because it was mounted to the chassis amplified it through the floor.
On a side note the heated exhaust on the heater can get hot upwards of 100-150c, mounting the heater under the bed like that could be a problem.
I would place some rated glass wool insulation over the exhaust then some type of cover so the thin aluminum hoses dont get crushed.
I think a fire risk to be exteam, more so malfunctions.
Thanks for the detailed comments! Some awesome tips in there! Sounds like you have installed a few of these 😀
Out of all the videos on TH-cam about the installation, you are the best. You did a neat and clean job, you explained everything nicely, and you made it look like it was installed by a professional! Thanks for sharing this video for all of us! The most important thing that you are still doing, is answering questions from your followers after so much time has gone by, and in fact you don’t even own the rigg that it was installed in. Very impressive!
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Here is a tip, put some clear soft pvc hose over the hard white nylon fuel line and then use insulated clamps to mount the fuel line. I hope this helps you. Keep up the good work and stay safe and charged
Hey mate! Thats a great tip! I will definitely do that :)
Does this aid in eliminating the pulsing sound?
@@brent7344 yes
Just came back to watch this demo again ( because there was something I wanted to check on) and I have to say I think it's one of the best, clearest demos I've seen yet. I've liked and subbed in case you embark on another mission that I want to know about.
Cheers from Brisbane.
Wow, thanks! Glad it helped
I have had one in my van for the past 4 years with no problem, something you can do it add a cap of desiel cleaner in you tank, I use a 5L tank ( the type you would put in your van tank ). I also have these for heating the lower floor of my house here in the UK.
Used one in my caravan since start of pandemic. I’ve been using my caravan not only to go on holiday but also as a work from home office. Its sometimes used for up to 12 hours a day through the winter and it’s been fantastic…..no chance of me using the 2000w heater in my caravan at todays energy prices.
That’s great to hear! No regrets from me either
Awesome video. Just bought one myself and was getting quite nervous about how to install it. You’ve taken some of my nerves away!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks
Oh thank you so much! Its much appreciated! Glad you enjoyed the video! :)
@@GetCampingOz Thanks for all the Great info. I am Half way through my installation .Fitting the Exhaust---- When i clamp the pipes to the muffler and to elbow i can not get a tight fit it does not clamp on . only to the outside fitting -- not sure how to fix this... Also the Muffler when you hold your hand over one end and blow through the other the Air escapes out of gaps at each end near the intake and outlet also at drain hole at bottom , As the Muffler is positioned under the van think a lot of exhaust could build up under the Van ,
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks Joe
@@joemak8629 Hi Joe, No problem at all. Sounds like your kit might vary slightly to mine as I didnt have any of those issues you are experiencing with your install. There is lots of different kits out there with slightly different changes to how they are installed. The exhaust pipe should clamp slide over the neck of the exhaust outlet of the heater and gets secured with a metal hose clamp. The other end of the exhaust pipe should then slide over the muffler end and clamp on. The other side of the muffler can have another extension pipe added if needed. The drain hole on the bottom shouldn't allow too much exhaust gas out providing the muffler is flowing properly. The exhaust should always exit the side of the van so that there is no risk of fumes accumulating underneath. Hope that helps! :)
I bought a £85 5Kw heater for my van and 2 years later it's still going strong. If it only lasts 4 years, I can buy 10 of these for the same price as a Webasto
Yeh they represent good value when you put it like that! :)
Love the idea with the flange. Mate I have just installed a heater and in my kit there was a rubber mount for the pump That I’ve mounted straight to the chassis rail and I can hardly hear it.
Definitely worth looking at 👍
Yeh I’m going to try it - here I was thinking I’d be ahead of the game and be inventive 🤣🤣
Just came back in AGAIN to check out the start up process after the install. watched your demo diligently, wrote down the instructions to follow, and hopefully all will go well. have a few trips coming up where I wont have a powered site, and it's going to be cold.
Cheers
Hope it’s all working out for you? Have you tested your heater yet?
@@GetCampingOz . A sparky mate of mine came over last night to wire everything up and then he fired it up, works like a dream. He just winged the startup process and he reckons he may have overdone the priming thing, because we could hardly see the house at first 🤣 but it settled down, eventually. there was moisture coming out of the muffler, which I thought was just condensation, but it was diesel, so he must have flooded it on the prime. Anyway, it settled down and on the high temp, you would be ripping your clothes off. turned it down to the lowest setting and it was beautiful. just as a trial run, I fired it up an hour ago and it just went perfectly. I'll be needing this in Stanthorpe at the end of the month.
You’ve got the fuel filter the wrong way around. The thinner bit is the collector chamber and that then feeds fuel through the thicker collar. Basically, the thinner part should face the tank.
Haha yes that was swapped over after I made the vid! Good pick up!
worth watching for that handy tip on getting the flange and nut secured onto the fuel tank
Haha thanks!
Great explanation- clear and concise. Well done
Thanks Jeff!
FYI I’ve fitted a few of these heaters. My latest one is exactly the same kit as yours. Now re the position of tank/pump etc, I have my tank on rear bumper of caravan. My van is 21’6 and the pump is approximately 5-6 meters away from tank. I’ve used rubber fuel hose instead of the transparent line you get with tank and also a Ryco filter. I’ve run the heater for 4 consecutive nights for approximately 8-10 hours each time without any issues at all. I believe this kit/heater which is the same as yours is the better one out of all I’ve had previously. Great vid by the way.
That’s really good to hear. I’ve done similar testing to you and run it for long periods and had no issues at all. Thanks for the support 😀
Can you tell me what the level of fuel use is at different heat settings? Nobody seems to cover that.
G'day @@petetimbrell3527, John McK 47 (th-cam.com/users/johnmck1147) covers fuel consumption very thoroughly.
I seen a comment on another video that somebody made about a top feeder for the fuel by going through the top of the tank and let the hose sit on the bottom because if you need to replace the tank or take it out then having the fuel line at the bottom allows leakage but if it's at the top it won't leak at all. I kind of like that idea more than bottom gravity fed
Yeh that’s a great idea. I am looking at changing the tank over so it is top fed. Mine hasn’t leaked but it has always been in the back of my mind. Cheers Adam
@@GetCampingOz I'm buying a E250 extended van from my boss and I'm going to strip it out then insulate it and do a build on it. That's what I will be living in from now on. I've been living in a pickup truck the last 3 years in the cab which is an extended cab with the seats removed except for the driver seat. The truck hasn't driven in a while since it has a blown head gasket so I have it parked at my boss's shop with an electric line from inside for the last 3 years to provide heat in the winter with a small heater and a fan in the summer to cool me off. My entertainment is a flat screen TV and an Xbox One. I have no ambition to ever live in an apartment and unless I win the lotto I won't be buying a house cuz I'm not doing a mortgage. The whole real estate industry is crooked as the Mississippi River. These Super Rich bastards keep buying property for more than what it's worth so they don't have to pay taxes and it has driven up the price of Real Estate and rent throughout the country. That's why I hate the rich greedy bastards just can't get enough
Great video. The fuel pump tick is one thing, but I couldn't sleep with that fan noise ....
Can noise it like white noise. It’s actually nice.
Hi great video
I mounted our pump in the supplied mount and then onto a small mount from Bunnings
The pump is under the Van directly below our bed. We can’t hear it at all. This works a treat and easy to do
Cheers. I’m still playing with ideas to see what the best solution is. What mount did you purchase?
I got it from Bunnings
It is Goliath
Goliath 30 x 40mm Dome Cylindrical Rubber Isolator
If you like give me am email and I’ll send you a photo of how I used it
@@waynekerry2115 great thanks Wayne. I’ll check it out 👍🏻
@@waynekerry2115 Hi Wayne, I would love to see a detail/picture of how you have mounted it
@@joshuabeasley6558 Hi Josh
Not sure how to put a photo up on here
Right, mate- I've just come upon your video on my 'HOME' page. Probably due to me very recently ordering a 2KW VEVOR diesel heater. This is a brilliant video, liked and subscribed. I'm in Ohio USA and have an old Ford truck with a tall camper top. I plan to build an extension from the cap over my tailgate (this is legal). I'm thinking of trying to install the heater inside a compartment at one end of the tailgate inside the 'new addition' and the fuel tank beside it in a separate area that is plastic lined with a tray under it as suggested. If I mount the heater on brackets raised up from the compartment floor I thought that the air intake tube would be unnecessary. I could utilise air from inside the interior of my tall truck cap if a few (2 inch- 5 cm?) holes are drilled into the interior side of the camping truck cap area. Ta, mate- right champion!
Thanks mate! Sounds like you have some plans for your truck! Cheers Adam
@@GetCampingOz Ta, I appreciate the encouragement.
I’m thinking of a similar noise solution but I’m going to line the inside of the box with sound deadening mat and mount the box to the frame via vibration padding used for transformer installation.
Sounds good 👍🏻 let us know if it works!
I’m going to mount my pump in a thermos ( vacuum flask) with the fuel lines running in and out through the cap
Let us know how that goes. Will be interesting to see if it works 👍🏻
you can wrap some sound deadening material around the pump. the more weight you add this way, the less sound from the pump ! I used Alubutyl and that really makes a difference.
Great tip thanks!
you could try hanging some exhaust mounting rubbers from the chassis and hang the pump fuel line either side of the pump from those.
That a great tip! Ive tried something similar but it still could hear the tick.. the search continues :)
I just wish that the installation videos by people spent more time on the wiring. The hardware is easy to understand and follow. But more info on the wiring package would be great. I think that I have it right up the fuse, as there is only one wire from the fuse to go to the batteries JBR
Thanks for feedback. There isn’t much with the wiring, it’s literally a positive and negative to the battery. Nothing complicated at all. The other end of the loom just plugs into the display. Hope that helps
The ticking sound of the pump is actually resonating through the fuel line.
Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out!
You might try to install your box into another container like a plastic container and fill around inside with rockwool of fiberglass this will help quiet the noise as well as the sound. let me know what you think.Charlie AKA Dismas
That’s a great tip. I did try a few versions of the box but found nothing worked that great.
Great video and well thought out install. I mounted the fuel pump on rubber straps (similar to tyre rubber) like you say, the ticking sound will always be there. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael. Yeh I’m going to try another method of mounting it on an exhaust rubber and see it that’s any better. I’ll let you know if it works 👍🏻
Just a couple of points.
The pump. It will lift fuel by about 50cm - so no problem with most installations. There is also no pressure involved, so the pump to machine distance will not be important for your installation.
Secondly, the pump ducting. The exhaust length is limited to about 2m (and limited to 270 degrees of bends, I believe). Any extension should be of a larger cross sectional area. The combustion air ducting is likewise limited in length (without increases in diameter). These limitations are to ensure the resistance, to gas flow through the system, will not be excessive and will allow complete combustion of the fuel. The warm air ducting is likewise limited in size, length and number of bends. That one fan shaft shifts all the combustion and warm air, so should not be overloaded.
Not important for a simple installation, but many ignore these limitations - probably because they don’t know they exist! They are likely the ones who get trouble and blame it on the heater.🙂
BTW, the machine will be using that approx one amp all the time, while running normally (excluding stops and starts).
Overall a good video on how simple these machines are to install and use. (Plug that small hole/slot in the base plate if not required). A CO monitor/alarm is only a few dollars (for up to ten years protection) - not a high price to pay for your safety, even though the risk should be low.
Thanks for the great tips!
I have a 24v model and a 240 to 24v 6amp supply linked into bus electrics for when running on mains...
That should be enough to run the unit, including start?
@@winzracingNZ The typical maximum starting power of these heaters is usually around 120W. A 6 amp supply at 24 volts would/should be adequate because that is 144W. However, a 1 or 2 amp power supply, with a battery as buffer, would be far better as a) it would be better matched to the average power used and b) the battery would offer protection in the event of a mains power failure.
One amp would likely be adequate (if the heater is generally run on limited output power) and two amps if it is generally run at or close to, full power.
Most buses (apart from the ‘mini’ versions) operate on 24 volt systems? I would expect a 6A power supply, connected to the bus electrics might ‘fight’ against the usual battery charging system (from the mains supply). More thought required, perhaps, as it may not need an extra power supply at all!
Hi, very helpful, may I just say that the diesel tank outlet fitting will seal better with the o ring on the inside of the tank.
Good tip!
The unit I am playing with now is an all in one setup. I am planning to install one in my truck. I saw one of many tips I will use and that is to install a standpipe (purchased separately). and drill the holl in the top of the tank then run the stand pipe about 1 inch above the bottom. The benefit of the standpipe is that you don't have a hole in the bottom of your tank that could fail someday and cause problem. in your case the hole is too far from the bottom of the tank when it is mounted at an angle (I think). thanks for the video. I bet your bed stays warm from the heat that bleeds off the warm air ducting.under that bed.
Pump noise tip... Ear plugs... Great video... thanks😎
Noted!
Hello from across the Big Pond in the States.................
Hi there Joe 🙃
If I put one in the new van I’ll likely set it up outside the van and run it for a few weeks to make sure it was ok.
We got our Chinese Thermomate 5kw heater from Edison's and works a treat. We have a 22'6" van so should be able to run it on a lower setting most of the time.
Yeh 2KW is a good size for a 17ft van
@@GetCampingOz ...Hmmm...I might have bought one that might be too big. I've only got a 17 ft van, so I hope I can turn it down to a usable level 🤔 I got a 5kw.
19:23 have you measure intake and outlet air temp in minimun power??
No sorry
@@GetCampingOz nobody has measured freezing (below -5c) intake temp, what happens to output. Or what does the heater do in min power, or but it to youtube
Really informative. Good pro con arguments
Great video with clear instructions thanks mate. My wife put me onto your channel, and I'm glad she did.
I am a neat freak with any install - always taking a lot longer to plan a job than to actually do it. As you have said, I also spend a lot of time researching things online, and especially TH-cam.
A couple of questions or comments:
1. Was there an o-ring on the inside of the fuel fitting? Couldn't quite see - obviously there was one on the outside. Always best to seal fuel on the fuel side, not the outside (for newer diy enthusiasts).
2. I'd suggest having a tray (bund) under the fuel tank in case of spills. One spill with diesel will mean you'll smell diesel in your van forever after.
3. I'd certainly recommend putting the entire fuel line inside a protective cover - exactly like you would with electrical cable. Seeing it's a soft fuel line, a hard cover like flexible electrical conduit would be perfect. I'd place the filter right at the fuel tank, where you can see it, and inside the bund, in case (when) you need to change the filter on the road. Then you don't get fuel in your van. This also works with the entire soft fuel line being inside a conduit - can't do that if there's a filter in the way 👍.
4. Noise is essentially a mechanical connection. Mount everything on a soft mount, including the pump box. Try soft coil springs rather than rubber, which won't do much to decouple the noise energy.
Thanks Rod. Yes there was an O-ring on the other side of the tank fitting. Great advice about the bund under the tank. I may change the tank to a boat tank with a quick release. That way when the weather gets hot I can remove the tank altogether. I’m also looking at using some exhaust hangers for the pump box as well. Cheers
Great video. You are a talented teacher! Thinking we will now mount ours at the front of the van rather than the back (under the bed). Thank you again.
Glad you liked the vid 😀
Nice 80 series in the background when you are fitting the fuel filter
Did you ever find a solution you were happy with for the ticking of the pump ?
I resorted to hanging the fuel pump from the chassis with a rubber strap. Stopped 95% of the last tick heard inside the van.
Thank you for the great instruction video. I just bought the exactly same one for my old campervan. - from NZ
No problems at all! Glad you enjoyed
Saw a sound engineer compair foam and various other sound deadening products and what wone hands down by a country mile.....a beach town folded in three. I've wrapped mine in one and it sounds very faint indeed. Like a heart beat, and that's with it next to the hot air duct right by my head, also make sure the fuel lines don't touch the van anywhere, clamps are unavoidable. Hope that's helpful
Thanks Gramps. That’s a great tip. I might just give that a go! Cheers
I just got on today going to get it installed on Monday or Tuesday that if the weather is dry. My mate have one in his caravan but not this one I pay £160 for it so I will let you know when it is fitted in my caravan
Sounds good mate!
Great informative video, thanks. We've spent a bit longer than a day trying to install ours into our van because nothing ever goes to plan!
Thanks for the comments. It’s so true it never works to plan!
fuel pumps generally push fuel put it near the tank or just buy a good diesel tank with pump inside
Thanks 👍🏻
Mount the pump to the main Chace not cross beams for floor
Thanks for the tip
i like the ticking of the fuel pump... puts me right to sleep. like white noise
Haha that’s one way of looking at it!
I'm almost about to install, how did the box go for the pump to silence the noise ? Was it worth doing / would you do anything different ? Good video too
I ended up changing it out and suspended the pump and it made it super quiet. Vibrations were being transferred through the chassis rail. Hope that helps
Awesome info and sharing of helpful bits and pieces. Thanks. I will definitely be watching this when installing ours, lol.
Thanks mate! Appreciate the comments. Glad it helped
I installed one into my caravan and within a few months the sensor failed and the fan wouldn't turn off without being disconnected from the power supply. If I had to do it again I'd pay more for one of the mid range Russian units.
It also put off a plastic smell that my wife hated and it would use surprising amount of battery too.
Oh that’s no good! Ours hasn’t had any issues and it’s been installed for about 18 months now. We have a new van now and just fitted a gas unit which I will have a video out soon!
Helpful hints.
I couldn't find a place to install the original plastic fuel tank.
So I made a bracket and bought a cheap metal tank.
Installed it on the front of the A frame.
Please keep the videos coming.
Cheers Andy.
Sounds good Andy! I was thinking about changing the tank as well but so far it hasn’t been a problem. Thanks for the support. Cheers Adam
Great video mate I think you box would of worked If you had rubber between the chassis and the box, even sound damping material inside
Yeh I have tried that but it didnt seem to make any difference. Im still looking for something to make it quieter. I have seen the silent pumps in the UK but cant find out where to buy them. Cheers
@@GetCampingOz dam i was going to try that with my heater only just installed it, thanks for your video it really helped me with my install
Great instructional video.
Most TH-cam videos I have seen the diesel heaters have had two pieces of ducting( one for cool air in and one for warm air out). Mine only came with one for the warm air out. My plan is to mount it under the dinette and just put a cabinet vent near the cool air side to allow air in. Hopefully that’s enough.
Secondly seems to be alot of talk about the pump being noisy. Thought I might mount the tank in the front tool box and mount the pump under the tank in the tool box. Thinking that will isolate it from the van abit and reduce the noise. All in all everything looks fairly straight forward. Thanks
Thanks mate! Yeh not sure on the two pieces of ducting. I’ve fitted a few to friends vans and all have only had the one. You can only try the pump in that location. If it’s too noisy then you can move it. I’ve actually ditched the box and used just the rubber mount and it’s heaps better. Thanks for watching
Stephen Pitt
. That's exactly what I have done, Stephen. I have the fuel tank (not the plastic one supplied, but a stainless steel one I bought on E bay, much better quality and has a fuel gauge.) Mounted in the front boot, then mounted the filter and pump straight under the fuel tank, with the fuel line (proper fuel line) running down through the drain hole in the floor of the boot. I have the fuel pump mounted on the wall of the boot with a screw, as provided, but if it still sounds a bit noisy, I'll have the rubber suspension system as a backup. I'm half deaf, so probably won't hear anything 🤣 But I have some mates who are a bit fragile lol. I would love to hear how yours worked out since My install is probably a carbon copy of yours. Any tips would be appreciated.
This is just a thought I've had...since ever u-tube ticking fuel pump is a concern for a reply on the viewers thoughts.. mount the fuel pump on a pole and put it beside the Unit when parked..Like the way I have done...O and fuel tank. So one day I may put the fuel pump with the rubber tube extensions...... sticking out of the concrete brick in poured around the fuel pump Note do not for get to attach your DC line to the pump before pouring concrete lol...
Thanks for the share on a random view I appreciate the people that post. Things of my interest
Curtis Off Grid thanks for Solar and Internet I'm out there ,,
Thanks for the tip
Got one for auction looks exactly the same. Win mine at auction for 122 on auction., very ticky pump on low but don't here it much on higher setting. 10lt kept my 2 bedrooms warm for a week on lowest setting on auto 25degress, air comes out at about 60degrees plenty of air flow and cheap as chips to run.
Yeh they are good value for money
Great video and well explained. I have a Jayco flamingo and will have to find a good location for the fuel tank.
Thanks for the comments! Get little van the flamingos 🦩
bigger box, and insulation rubber backing between the frame and the box. it should work for the pump.
I’ve actually removed it from the box and it’s quieter! Not sure how but it is 🤔
Excellent install video! Nail it!
Thanks! 👍
Its been awhile since the install hows it all performing
I’ve since sold the van but for over two years no issues at all
After reading all these comments, I have decided to mount my fuel tank in the front boot of my 17 ft. Oasis pop top van. I will make a little secure shelf for the fuel tank (not the provided one) but maybe a small outboard fuel tank (removable). I will mount it as high as possible and have the fuel pump immediately under the fuel tank giving it a gravity feed to the pump (also mounted inside the front boot) eliminating any priming problems. Would it be a good idea to install another vent plate where the unit inside the van is installed to circulate the air from within the van, instead of just circulating the air that is under the bed ?
Run your fuel pipes and wires through a partitioned re-openable electric conduit, fuel in one, wires in the other or better still, use two separate circular conduits. Protection against rubbing, and stones, and easy to fasten to anything and avoids sharp metal.
Thanks Mike. Great tips! I’ve actually put the fuel line in a clear tube to prevent noise transfer and it seems to work quite well. Thanks for watching
Big help, Thank you!
Glad it helped 👍🏻
Question, I have a sienna mini van and i kept hearing the 5k would be too hot. so I got a 2kw like yours and now hear you have to run it on high to heat my van. How is the heat output on this and do you have to run it on high to keep warm?
Apparently there is a quieter pump you can buy online and doesn't cost too much. I have see someone doing it on TH-cam.
I have heard but haven’t seen them. If you have a link I’d love to see. Thanks for watching
Yeah, I too didn't find a single example of a fire or injury from these. I did find people complaining about poor reliability, but most of those you could put down to poor installation choices and execution.
I think this would also be the case if you badly DIY installed a $2500 Eberspaecher. The chinese clones of the Webasto and Eberspaecher are very good. Interestingly, some camping places rebrand the cheapies and sell for upwards of $800. (Although you can assume that there's some better local support and warranty with them)
I've got a spare pump and controller stashed for mine, but may never need them.
I agree Neil. The most problems that I hear people complaining about are exactly as you describe. They are very simple in design and not much can go wrong 👍🏻
Good vid but the part I needed was the wiring, and fuel connection is your wiring thru the bottom plate or no?
HI Mary, the wiring I chose not to go through the bottom plate as it looked to close to the exhaust. I drilled a separate hole and fed the wire do it and then silicone it up. The battery connection is just a positive and negative connection.
You mentioned using a bigger power feed wire (s).
As the feed is via a plug in connector, surely a larger wire can only be used to the fuse?
Great vid👌
My tip of the day, when you tighten your chuck up tight by hand twist it back the opposite way until it clicks, this will lock it and stop things coming loose on the chuck and flying out when the brake engages or when you change direction.
Great tip!
Drill manufacturers states its true, chuck manufacturers denies it. For me opposite way is way to loosen it..
Great Video You explained things well thanks
Very welcome
Great Video --- I am considering the same heater --- are you stil happy with the heater
Yes extremely happy with the heater. I’ve since sold the van but would definitely do it again
pump needs cool air to keep cool, put in a box and foam will over heat , stand alone rubber mounts work super quiet,🤫👍
I’ve been running it in the box for about 6 months and never did it heat up. I’ve since removed the box as I found it actually increased the ticking sound. Cheers
Maybe put some Dynamat (sound deadening material) around the pump box
Thanks for the tip!
I note that diesel heaters are available in different Kw heating capacities. Have you found that 2kw was adequate for your caravan? What size is your caravan?
Hi Phillp. Thanks for the question. Yes 2KW seems to be fairly suitable for our van. Its a 17 foot Jayco Stirling poptop. I recently fitted a 5KW system to a mates van but his van is a 22 foot Jayco. I have heard people complaining about the 5kw systems getting too warm, and they have to open up the windows to let some heat out. Both systems havent Ive fitted, havent experienced getting too hot. Thanks for watching :)
Hi! Does 2kw will be enough for UK winter time? In winter here rains a lot. Around 4 degrees celsius
@@olegs_vacija I guess it depends on quite a few things. How large is the space you want to heat? Is it insulated? etc etc. I'm living in The Netherlands and due the energy prices I installed one in a unit besides my home, to heat up my living room. I have a larger one and when it was freezing outside, the temperature inside was 20 degrees celsius and that was at 60%. The living room is 6m x4m and 2,5m high. My house is semi-detached from 1954 and I'm living at the countryside of The Netherlands so you can bet on it that it can be really cold. The price difference between a 2 and 5kw isn't that big (sometimes you can buy a 5kw even cheaper). I have no regrets by buying this, it saves me tons of money already.
Great video, very informative. I've saved it for later referral. Could you provide a link to where you bought the heater?
Hey Rob, I’ve just checked and the eBay seller no longer sells this heater. I’m pretty certain they are all the same - just check that the fuel hose in the nylon one and the controller is the newer type with the remote. Cheers Adam
fuel filter is in backwards
good pickup! I did realise this after I installed it and then swapped it around :)
Hey mate, 2 years on hows it faired? Stood up to the conditions? Im looking at purchasing one of these. Keen to see how its lasted you.
Cheers! Great video by the way!!
Hey Josh, yes no issues at all. We just fired it up last month as we had a cold night and it started straight away. Hadn’t touched it since last winter. Definitely a great option for budget heating! Thanks for watching
try sound deadning foam that people use inside car door panel.
Great tip!
Regardless of the brand, your install was informative and pratical.
It seems these heaters can be cheap and perhaps nasty ,who knows or expensive and German.
ACH made in Der Fatherland.
I. Honestly can't see the intrinsic value in a heater for the best part of $2000 but on the other side of the coin the Chinese make things that look good on the outside .
Will it last, that is the question.
Thanks, I really enjoyed the video
Thanks for comments. I’m glad you like the vid 👍🏻
I have found a good way to dampen that pumps clicking from reverberating into the house would be to just slip it into a pool noodle.
Yes have heard that works well
sir can you give me a honest fuel useage liters per hour on a 2kw at full heat
Honestly I could not tell you. All I know is it uses not much. We have been away a heap of times and used it most nights and I still have some fuel left from the first tank. They are very efficient
See videos produced by John McK 47 (th-cam.com/users/johnmck1147) - lots of discussion about consumption
A very neat install. How loud is the blower unit & fire box when running? Quiet enough to sleep through at night? Thx
Yeh it’s quite enough to sleep. The fan is louder than the burner.
Do you need to connect power to the fuel pump?
Yes power is connect to the harness which supplies power to the fuel pump
@joemak .Im about to install in my Jayco Dove Camper .if i look under the floor the exhaust will be underneath the Van enclosed by the underfloor frame also the air intake . Would think its not a good idea ,does the exhaust need to be feed outside somehow. Please Help
The exhaust should be located on the outside of the van with the exhaust exit pipe on the edge of the van so that the fumes dont accumulate underneath the van. The exhaust should have an extension pipe to allow this. Hope that helps
@@GetCampingOz Thanks it does help, Have looked at a few instructions on Y Tube and they all put the Muffler on a short exhaust-pipe under Van. Think it would be easier to fix muffler under van then extension pipe from muffler to outside of van. Does that sound OK
Also i was thinking to put Fuel-tank/ fuel Filter / then fuel pump in front -boot of my Jayco Dove .then running fuel line to the Heater, would this sound ok . i dont think it would make any more noise than underneath van ,all instructions i see have t he fuel pump underneath would this work,
Thanks Joe
@@GetCampingOz Hi forgot to ask . I have bought the Black fuel line (icon-series)Fuel and emission hose id-5mm SAEJ30R7 it seems to be the same as the one that is used with the White nylon line .Wouldn't it be better to run this all the way than connecting a short piece to the Tank/filter /pump/heater and using the white line in-between ???
@@joemak8629 yeh sounds good. As long as the pipe is not venting under the van
Thanks for the video,
Can anyone tell me if the 2kw heaters constantly use the 12v battery whilst running, or is it just used when first firing up.
If it does use it constantly then how likely is it that it would flatten the 12v battery.
Yeh they sure do. The battery provides power to the controller, power to heat up the glow plug on the initial start and power to the fan that blows across the body of the heater. Once it’s running, the current draw is around 1-2amps but on initial start up it’s around 10-15 depending on the heater. You will definitely need some ability to replace the charge lost if you are running it at night. A good small solar system will keep up with it. Thanks for watching
Great video and informative
Thanks mate!
Hey mate,
Quick question re your video.
1. What was the size of the second holesaw under the bed for the vent?
2. Did you drill a whole in the floor of the boot for the fuel line or was that the drainage hole?
3. What did you use for the sound proof box or what did you buy?
4. What was the size of the hole you drilled on the bed where the face plate went for the display?
Hey Jodi. I think it was about 65mm. I have a few sizes and just matched the vent up.
The boot floor hole was just the drain hole 🕳
The box I used was from Bunnings. It’s Deta brand box. In the electrical section near the conduit.
The size hole for the controller was about 25mm. I just used a step drill until the plug fitted in the hole.
Hope that helps 😀
Hey mate, where did you get the black fuel line from? The supplied clear line for me isn't long enough so was going to go black fuel line from jerry can in back of van, to filter and down to the inlet of the fuel pump like you did.
-edit- noticed you wrote it in the video 😂
haha all good mate!
Thanks for the video. Just wondering if any regrets or issues with the fuel tank in the front boot?
No problems at all. We have no issues at all with it in the front boot. No smell, no leaks, nothing. Thanks for watching
@@GetCampingOz Excellent, thanks for that.
The only way to stop the pump noise is to fit a different type of pump to the system.
Got any recommendation's?
good job but the fuel filter is backwards
Good pickup! I did change it after I did it but wasnt filmed :)
Fairly common error to locate the fuel pipe on the bottom of the tank. In time, the seal will perish and diesel will spill all over your front trunk.... and that smell can be a bastard to get rid of. A hole in the top of the tank, and a fuel stand pipe fitted is the perfect way. If the seal perishes, no leaks. Simples.
good tip!
I was thinking exactly the same thing. I would not drill below the level of the fuel as a leak is going to occur sooner or later.
@@paulmaxwell8851 ...Yes. Watching all these comments has made me decide to ditch the provided fuel tank and get maybe a small outboard tank, or one with a stand pipe. wouldn't be too happy smelling diesel continually.
Hi. Great TH-cam video.
Was the hole saw 100mm or 102mm to fit the bunnings 100mm zinc round down pipe top?
Thanks Trev
Thanks mate! I think it was a 100mm one. It was a nice fit.
Hi, just wondering about make and model of this Chinese diesel heater and where to purchase? Ebay? Thx, Kim.
Hey mate, not sure of the make. It was purchased from eBay. Seller no longer sells heaters. It has been brilliant with zero issues. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Hey mate,
Whats the fuel consumption on these units? Just weighing everything up to see if its practical.
Cheers.
Hey mate! It would depend on a number of factors such as temp, settings ect but Based on my own experience with the heater, I observed between 150ml-300ml per hour depending on the settings. Hope that helps
Gday , awesome vid ill use some of your tips, is the outlet air too hot if a sheet etc drops in front of it 🤔
The vent is about 300mm from the edge of the bed so it should be fine it would just make the sheet really warm. Any closer then i think it would be a problem. Thanks for watching
You don't have to follow the directions on the fuel pump angle and drill hole on the bottom of the fuel tank.
As long as your fuel pump is at 45° or straight vertical, that will lube the pistons.
The fuel pump is plenty powerful to
suck the diesel from the top down.
The O ring will eventually fail. You'll have a huge mess on your hands or fire danger.
Good tip
So exhaust shouldn’t finish under van? Is it critical that it reaches the edge of the body of the van?
I’ve set mine up so it doesn’t protrude past the body of the van. One thing that will always change is the wind. Even if you had it stick out past the van, if the wind is blowing towards the van it will carry the exhaust fumes underneath anyway. Biggest thing to make sure is that it’s way from anything that could get hot. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@GetCampingOz my main issue is the length supplied. Just wondering if it is necessary to extend it away from under van or not critical due to reasons stated?
@@mattsmith2051 the length they supply is fairly short. You can extend the exhaust by adding an extra section to the end of the muffler. IMO as long as you can get it close to the edge it shouldn’t be issue.
Good vid. But are these things thermostatically controlled or just constant output?
Thanks for watching. These are constant output based on the setting. I have heard you can buy a controller that can be set to maintain a temperature. Hope that helps.
You are using a 2 KW heater, winter just finished there did you like the smaller size? I believe that I may of ordered too large of a heater for my Pick-up bed camper. How large is your camper (caravan), sq. meters are OK? How cold did it get while using it, Centigrade is OK, I will convert?........ Thanks
Yeh the 2kw unit was more than enough for our 17ft van. Any bigger it would have been too hot. In saying that our winters aren’t as cold as yours 😀. We get down to about 0c
@@GetCampingOz I think that I need to get a 2 KW. We don't camp much below -8c and then that would be at night time in the Colorado mountains 3000-4000 meters.................Thanks
No problem at all. And thanks for subscribing 😀
There is a silent pump on the market. Just replace it and the noise near desapears.
My little screen won't turn on.. my red wire has power in it... pushing the power button.. nothing comes on
Sorry I cant help! It sounds like it might be faulty
@Get Camping i orderd a 2kw. . I really like it ... the instructions are illegible... so operating it .. is just a guess 😆