Go Kart / Crosskart Drivetrain Made for HAYABUSA Power!!! Homebrew part 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
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How to make a simple chain drive rear carrier without a lathe and make it able to handle Hayabusa power. So excited to test this setup and destroy some tires. Lots of builders making good use of the KJ Raycing Homebrew Rear End and no complaints yet! For the full build start here: • How to build an IRS Ch... . I'm always working to improve design, strength and ease of assembly for everything. Thank you to everyone joining in on the KJ Raycing Facebook build group, making it plan holders only has really made for awesome discussions and stellar ideas. Can't wait to have a Crosskart meetup with you guys!
-Kyle
Plans Available Here:
kj-raycing.dpd...
100+hp Build Series Here:
• 100+HP Crosskart Build...
Easy Affordable No Lathe Chain Driven Spool Here: • Making an IRS Center s...
Budget Build Series Here:
• Inexpensive Crosskart ...
2 Seat Crosskart Build Series Here:
• Two Seat Crosskart Bui...
Plans detail and Materials needed
• Crosskart Plans: KJ Ra...
Custom length chassis
• Inexpensive Crosskart ...
Preferred tubing bender and notcher
www.Roguefab.com
Facebook KJ Raycing
Once you have the plans come join the build discussion
Facebook Build Group (KJ Raycing VF-1 and VF-2 Kart Builders) / 905565813954510
Instagram @kjraycing
Storefront kj-raycing.dpdcart.com
DISCLAIMER
Videos are for entertainment only, work performed in the video should only be accomplished by a professional technician. KJ Raycing will not be held liable for ANY personal injuries.
Rear end looks stout but instead of welding the splines, remove the set screws, drill a dimple into the splines, and rosette weld those. It will give more lateral strength. I have always wanted to build a cross cart and your kits look amazing. Keep up the good work and thank you for your service.
Man oh man! Thank you for continuing to update all the goodies for us!
I know right! I was like finally a hayabusa update!!!
no cap
Thanks KJ, this will help a lot with the R1 VF1 im building. Rock on
This is the update people's been asking for like 3 years. 😎 Happy Holidays Kyle! 🎄
awesome stuff man!! can't wait to see what this thing can do!! i'll see ya in the plan builders group soon. i want to build a 4wd version of this vf-2!
Wooooohoooo!!! So excited for this build!!!! Can't wait to see it in action!!!!
This is great! Now I am ready to build a 2nd one to have on hand. So far my original one with 1/4” plate has held up great with Hayabusa power.
I've watched all your videos several times over, and im ready to pull the trigger on a rouge fab bender and notcher. Hopefully, I'll have a crosscart by next spring
Great timing as i am investigating IRS for a high powered electric buggy
After watching C&C, Red Bd., RatherB, I’ve had the dream of a crosscart with a 4cyl mc engine like a honda 550-750 or similar air cooled , don’t wanna mess with radiator or liquids! I just don’t have the benders or cnc to cut complicated parts. Plus a plan! I guess that’s your expertise! I live in western NY so maybe sometime I could have a look at your operation, I saw your collaboration with C&C a couple weeks ago…. Now I’m stoked!
I agree 100%! Simple engines are way easier.
You really are a beast brother man! Thank you for all the efforts you put into sharing every bit of this
Now that's beefy.
After watching you and C+C with the Outlaw build. I've decided to place the ZX-12R motor on the back burner for now
and go with the 60hp Raptor 700 I've got sitting in pieces on the bench. I think that'll do quite nicely.
Hypeeeeeee i was researching this exact thing last night for a potential electric motor build lets gooooo!!!
KJ, you are amazing! I truly appreciate your efforts that keep me inspired, and one day, I'll be building one of these! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Happy New Year.
Very good KJ. 😊
I’d love to see a collab with Calwest or Cagekits to get the frame prebent and laser notched and for sale on your site.
Thanks for all you do sir!
KJ,
Two ideas :
1) Get "Transfer Punches" ...cheap, you'll understand !
2) Weld a tube between the tabs on the bottom of the hub and use a 1/2" or larger bolt through both tabs.
That is all listed in the plans. Great minds think alike… happy new year!
@@KJRaycing Hey ! Happy New Year !!
@KJRaycing I'd love to see you TIG weld one ! Good challenge, new skill :)
@KJRaycing btw...I love what you do and the way you have set this up !
Hopefully I can take advantage of what you have done in the future. Building something like this was always a dream of mine (tho I wanted to be in your position, lol)
In my opinion i would still countersink the hubs, better penetration and easyer to fill with weld.
As always nice video and a super cool project!
You are absolutely right! I was thinking about that during editing but didn’t want to reshoot the whole dog on video. Thank you for bringing this up 👍
As soon as I get my own computer, I’m getting all these blueprints
Thanks
Gonna need an update on this one
Its not just the heat going threw the bearings but the arcing between the rollers too. If you absolutely cant remove the bearings before welding then put the ground clamp as close as possible to the weld spot
That is stellar advice! Thank you so much 👍
This is great!
love your work i plan on building one with 350-400 hp soon
Bro thats wayyyyyyyy too much lol it weighs soo little
@@suntzu6122 I’m going to put 90/11-15 dirt late model tire on it so it will hook way better and pull wheelies hopefully
@@suntzu6122 I’m going to try to make it 1to1 to weight to make it a hyper kart
@@tallstacker bro u youre going to jump your ramp and see god with that horsepower and weight lol
He says it a lot u dont need insane hp it just makes it much harder on many components. Even 200 is insane hp for this. Youre at double that lols
@@suntzu6122 I’m use to race cars 200 hp is nothing look into sprint cars they are about 1.5 weight to hp.. 900 hp and 1500lbs i raced bmod
Oh my God,I insist sir can you adopt me please 😂😂😂😂😅😅
This is gonna be the one, any plans for an aero kit? Active would be amazing
Yes!!
Looks your friend was a victim of chain whip. During acceleration/deceleration your going to have a taught and slack side of your chain. In kart applications it's obviously the low side of chain. I'm an industrial maintenance tech, so I've seen this very thing. There are other factors involved as well. Everything about chain drives come down to cycles. Harmonics, heat cycles, flex cycles, and stretch are major players. Alignment is critical in high speed applications. Also chain guides to help control chain whip will help. Industry standards on spec are generally .002 thousandths. I still love the design, and i believe you'll get to a point where it's bullet proof. One more thing. Get you a good stick welder that'll run 6010 rods for those hubs. They will dig into the thick steel much better. (Hubs) A small wire fed machine is only going to give you lack of fusion and porous welds. I am going to buy your plans because i believe in your design and it's potential. Just some advice from an old hand that's done these processes.
P.S. 6010 rods make rough welds. You can always run a cover pass to pretty it up with your mig. You'll have a strong root weld regardless.
When you're MIG welding steel, use a drag motion, not a push motion. The tip should be pointed slightly opposite the direction of travel.
If you open the side door on your welder you will find info on push, pull and correct angles. Welding fishmouths on a frame can be tricky and you can’t always get the perfect angle, but we do the best we can right?
Not true, you only drag if it's flux core.
Time to build a limited slip for your track kart, it would make turning easier on asphalt. Also, buy some transfer punches, they are much more accurate.
Preheating and prepping the weld area with heavy chamfers would drastically improve the strength of these spools. Using TIG or stick would probably be better too.
MIG isn’t really known for deep weld penetration, especially without preheating.
Plug welds aren’t really that strong either. As long as you’re not relying on them to hold the spool together, it should be fine.
I’m on the same page as you. Great design l, awesome buggies and awesome info but it’s very apparent that they aren’t seasoned fabricators. I’ll be surprised if the life of those bearings hasn’t been reduced by quite a bit too!
Great cart design! Do you think a Honda 650 Nighthawk engine would be a good choice?
yea 😅 got honda cbr fr2 600 in mine
How about a design to go from a 125HP Honda ST1300 shaft drive engine to a differential?
mantap bang
tab and slot would help make boxing those plates
I had a question I seen that your axle kit is for 56" hub to hub mine is about 66" that I am designing how would you go about extending it to get to that number
LMK how many years or decades it takes to break this drivetrain. If it ever breaks at all. I dont think you can break it. Everything else around it Maybe.
Approximately how much would you say your entire cross kart weighs?
Hey man. just wondering if you needed to change the gearing when you used those big tires.
I would love to build a cross kart but the plans are to expensive and I don't have right tool but I love your work good job🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
The plans cost less than a steering wheel and I show you the correct tools to use. I wish you the best.
@@KJRaycing thanks so much I will try to build it the best I can have a good rest of your day 🥰🥰🙏🙏
Has anyone used a shaft drive engine yet? Wondering if there’s a way to build one of these with an LSD for street and track use
Very interesting project! I want to make a tutorial about kart cross designing and making
Unfortunately I live in Italy 😢
Do any of these cross carts have a differential??? I would like to build a street legal one. But I feel it would need a differential. Thanks..Pete
They do not need differentials. I don’t know how to convince you guys. They are light with short wheelbases. Differentials are expensive and really don’t exist for this kind of setup. Check out rpm gearboxes if you really want one.
@@KJRaycing Thank you. I just thought that on hard pavement a differential is a necessity. Again, I thought that the tires would wear a lot. Thanks for the clarification. Pete
How much do you charge for the same 1
Hi KJ Do you have a link where ican buy the other parts to build the spool, I need the Shaft, the 2 hubs, the the 4 beerings, the pipe to hold the 4 beerings , can you help please with a link to pruchase them ..
The part numbers are in the plans so you can google them to find the best prices 👍
Need help on attaching upper front a-arms. I purchased used set from Polaris outlaw. I've mounted lower arms which are wider than the uppers. My question is if your looking down at lower tabs from above, where to position upper tabs in relation? Do I place rear upper tabs directly over rear lower tabs, are line the front upper tabs with front lower tabs? Are split the difference? Like I said the lowers are wider at the attachment pivot. Thanks for any help.
Budget Crosskart Build#5: Front End
th-cam.com/video/sLovxKgyG2w/w-d-xo.html
Hey KJ im in high school, and im planning on building one of your crosskarts in our school shop when I come back from winter break! I bought the plans for the XL chassis and the rear carrier a couple weeks ago. Now I've made the decision that i only want a 3" extension instead of a 6" one. I'm planning on using a 600cc or a 1000cc engine or even if i have the funds a hyabusa engine. I would like to know if you'd be willing to send me the updated plans for the rear carrier, and a way for me to only build that 3" extended chassis and not the 6".
Just a thought. When welding the rear axle it would be a good idea to ground directly to the part being welded. By passing the current through the bearings you are shorting the life of the bearings.
For the updated plans just find your original email from when you made the purchase. And watch this video for information on stretching. All of the frames are customizable without new plans. The XL should not need to be stretched. th-cam.com/video/v-pRDkL7fOE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2u43mOfe8mWWUhJl
Is that like a solid axle in the rear spool you build?
Or does it let one turn?
(sorry I am at a loss for words on how to explain what I mean haha)
It is called a live axle. There is not a differential because I’ve never needed one on any surface I’ve ever driven on.
This sounds so based. 😂 @@KJRaycing
@@KJRaycing
I see stuff like that and keep hoping someone came up with one haha.😂
Sounds more like experience to me…
Of course, just it sounded so absolute that it looked more like a stance. Can't really be saying that differentials are useless, open ones maybe but think of the Torsen it's a genius invention. Didn't mean to be rude, I was sayin' it sounded like a flex, and lookin at your 4 builds, a well deserved one!@@KJRaycing
We're do I go to get the blue prints for the cart and axle?
Check the description for links to everything or check out kjraycing.com 👍
Voce ja tentou esses drive usando junta universal cardan
Obviously not 😁.
You need a lathe. Even a small one 12x24 Bench.
did I read that right is the vf-1 kit $100,000?!?
Nope. That is just to control sales. Click the picture and read the details. They are currently $2k without jigs and $2400 with jigs. I can’t just have them up for grabs as I can’t ship them to Russia, right? I hope you understand. Check out the video I did on the kits to see how to get yours 👍
@@KJRaycing Do you ship to Canada?
@ no
Hey KJ or anyone else. Anyone got KJ engine guys contact info. Think he's in GA. Remember one of the video of him talking about a guy that will package everything together and ship it. I really don't want to buy a good bike and part it out. I'd rather buy a wreck and go from there. I think that's what this guy does. Buys auctions and puts them together. Any info on that contact info would be great. Thanks
He is in the plan holders only Facebook group. Awesome guys and they have helped a lot of guys get their VF’s going 👍
@@KJRaycing Thanks
Hear me out ninja h2
I think we would all love for you to build one 👍