This is the best 355 video yet. Lots of important detail provided. Thank you for showing and demystifying the process. Huge asset to the 355 community. Thank you!
Thank you so much, Kenny. This is a brilliant video. And you're right, this is the one aspect of working on these cars that's a little intimidating - well that and threading the short oil line from the oil tank into the aluminum engine block while the engine is in the car :) . You've done a huge service to the Ferrari community. Most appreciated.
It's very technical and they're are so many steps .. but when you break it down to individual steps and then explain it ... it makes it much manageable. Hopefully this video accomplished that
Hey Ken, just skimmed video. What you are referring to is dwell and you explained it well. Friendly suggestion, use an analog indicator, much better than digital. Or, use the Sticky RX dead stop 🤓👍. I’ve measured dwell on my 95 and it was less that yours. IIRC, it was 1/2 or 1 degree.
Great video. Looks like a printed degree wheel on top of a Comp cam degree wheel? Would you add the link to replicate yours? What diameter wheel did you use? Happy to buy one from you. After all you did the work. Thanks
Great video! Excellent technical approach using the digital indicator and the degree wheel. Very intuitive, and easy to follow your instructions and procedures. Looking forward to the completion of this video series. Thanks again for sharing, and have a great day!
Nice video, very concise and clear instruction. I've always used the centrline method, only because thats what I learned as an apprentice mechanic back in the 1980's....But the Ferrari method is defintiely solid, and for those who are not familiar with the centreine method, a lot less chance of screwing it up....Now I'm going to have to go back and look at the rest of the series of videos.
My opinion is you should do both. Lobe centerline I think less prone to error. I found its really sensitive to having your gauge at 90 degrees. On the ferrari method, you have to nail that 2.41/2.29 measurement exact. If something's off, you're going to get erroneous readings. However, with lobe centerline, it doesn't matter as long as your gauge didn't move from the first reading to the next.
Watching this again something occured to me. In your case timing appeared to be right on to start with. Since a new belt should only be tensioned 1 time. If there is any question on if the timing is right, wouldn't you want to verify all of that prior to pulling the old belt? Basically along with the TDC verification. Then if timing is incorrect fix the timing first. Put new belt on last and only tension it 1 time. Of course do a full verification like you show after the belt is on to ensure its all correct and nothing changed. Thoughts or am I over thinking it?
While its edited out of the video, i absolutely checked the timing with both the old and then new belt. IT is necessary? probably not, but i wanted to make sure it was fine before and after. I also used the old belt to torque the cam gears as well.
Question: Once you found the arbitrary number where the piston is at TDC, did you reposition the degree wheel so TDC designation on the degree wheel matched that point?
Yes, I totally realized I didn't mention that, ugh. So yes, put the degree wheel close. Then find TDC, move the wheel closer to the correct position and tighten the nut holding it wheel in place. Then double check it 2 or 3 more times and bend the hanger to point to zero on your wheel
Hi Ken , just wrapping up my 355 engine out service too, I have a quick question if you don’t mind. I use the E manuals as well and I have all my torque specs right on the engine, tensioners , bearings , water pump , but my question is, what are the torque specs for the 20 bolts for the engine cradle? If I’m reading this correct it says “engine bracket fastening “, 53 Newton meters. I just want to make sure. Also I replaced new engine mounts and transmission mounts and the Emanuel says, “ pad to chassis plate fastening “, 50 NM. I am assuming that is the mounts?😂. Thanks for your help, Brad
There's definitely something getting Lost in translation there. I also found the nomenclature confusing however if you look at the size of the bolt it kind of lets you double check if you're actually talking about the right bolt. I use the pad to engine bracket fastening M16 98 newton meters(which I believe is actually the 12 big ones and likely the four rear big ones) the four wheel well engine cradle ones at the very top, I think those likely are in the 50 Newton meter range I didn't do the mounts this time, but I do believe they are the either the engine bracket fastening 53, or the pad to chassis plate fastening 50.
@@maartenrijsdijk7823 I think you are referring to the attachment to the dial indicator? If so, it's literally a thick piece of wire, actual I believe it's a coat hanger with a polished tip as to not scratch the lifter, stiff enough to be rigid for the measurement, but still bendable enough to make a notch for the camshaft
Hello super interesting video. I'm French, sorry for the translation. But are you ok to give me the clues (encrypted data) in writing to successfully match the manufacturer's standards. THANKS.
Can anyone confirm something that’s been bugging me please? I’ve seen YT videos showing an F355 cambelt change without dropping the engine but no one shows replacement of the cambelt tensioners. I can’t see the point of changing the belt without doing the tensioners at the same time so can the CB tensioners be replaced without dropping the engine?
This is the best 355 video yet. Lots of important detail provided. Thank you for showing and demystifying the process. Huge asset to the 355 community. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words! I'm just happy that at least one person watched it LOL
Thank you so much, Kenny. This is a brilliant video. And you're right, this is the one aspect of working on these cars that's a little intimidating - well that and threading the short oil line from the oil tank into the aluminum engine block while the engine is in the car :) . You've done a huge service to the Ferrari community. Most appreciated.
It's very technical and they're are so many steps .. but when you break it down to individual steps and then explain it ... it makes it much manageable. Hopefully this video accomplished that
Read the method many times, but having it demonstrated is so much clearer. Thanks for publishing the video !!
Awesome, hope it helps a lot of owners
The best part in this series is finding-the-TDC procedure. At this point I don't care F355 or BMW S38.
Hey Ken, just skimmed video. What you are referring to is dwell and you explained it well. Friendly suggestion, use an analog indicator, much better than digital. Or, use the Sticky RX dead stop 🤓👍. I’ve measured dwell on my 95 and it was less that yours. IIRC, it was 1/2 or 1 degree.
Great point!
Great video. Looks like a printed degree wheel on top of a Comp cam degree wheel? Would you add the link to replicate yours? What diameter wheel did you use? Happy to buy one from you. After all you did the work. Thanks
355 Crank hub tool: amzn.to/3A4om4c
Timing wheel: amzn.to/39TOMv4
Printable Degree wheel www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx
Great video! Excellent technical approach using the digital indicator and the degree wheel. Very intuitive, and easy to follow your instructions and procedures. Looking forward to the completion of this video series. Thanks again for sharing, and have a great day!
Yup, gotta get this motor back in and running!
Great video It was very informative on my project
Yet again, a very informative and valuable video Kenny. Much appreciated.
I appreciate it, thanks for watching!
Nice video, very concise and clear instruction. I've always used the centrline method, only because thats what I learned as an apprentice mechanic back in the 1980's....But the Ferrari method is defintiely solid, and for those who are not familiar with the centreine method, a lot less chance of screwing it up....Now I'm going to have to go back and look at the rest of the series of videos.
My opinion is you should do both. Lobe centerline I think less prone to error.
I found its really sensitive to having your gauge at 90 degrees. On the ferrari method, you have to nail that 2.41/2.29 measurement exact. If something's off, you're going to get erroneous readings. However, with lobe centerline, it doesn't matter as long as your gauge didn't move from the first reading to the next.
Another great video!
So is setting the timing on bank 2 the same, except you use cylinder 8 as the reference instead of cylinder 1?
Great video!!
Watching this again something occured to me. In your case timing appeared to be right on to start with. Since a new belt should only be tensioned 1 time. If there is any question on if the timing is right, wouldn't you want to verify all of that prior to pulling the old belt? Basically along with the TDC verification. Then if timing is incorrect fix the timing first. Put new belt on last and only tension it 1 time. Of course do a full verification like you show after the belt is on to ensure its all correct and nothing changed. Thoughts or am I over thinking it?
While its edited out of the video, i absolutely checked the timing with both the old and then new belt. IT is necessary? probably not, but i wanted to make sure it was fine before and after.
I also used the old belt to torque the cam gears as well.
Question: Once you found the arbitrary number where the piston is at TDC, did you reposition the degree wheel so TDC designation on the degree wheel matched that point?
Yes, I totally realized I didn't mention that, ugh.
So yes, put the degree wheel close. Then find TDC, move the wheel closer to the correct position and tighten the nut holding it wheel in place.
Then double check it 2 or 3 more times and bend the hanger to point to zero on your wheel
@@ExoticCarDIY Thank you.
Hi Ken , just wrapping up my 355 engine out service too, I have a quick question if you don’t mind. I use the E manuals as well and I have all my torque specs right on the engine, tensioners , bearings , water pump , but my question is, what are the torque specs for the 20 bolts for the engine cradle? If I’m reading this correct it says “engine bracket fastening “, 53 Newton meters. I just want to make sure. Also I replaced new engine mounts and transmission mounts and the Emanuel says, “ pad to chassis plate fastening “, 50 NM. I am assuming that is the mounts?😂. Thanks for your help, Brad
There's definitely something getting Lost in translation there. I also found the nomenclature confusing however if you look at the size of the bolt it kind of lets you double check if you're actually talking about the right bolt.
I use the pad to engine bracket fastening M16 98 newton meters(which I believe is actually the 12 big ones and likely the four rear big ones) the four wheel well engine cradle ones at the very top, I think those likely are in the 50 Newton meter range
I didn't do the mounts this time, but I do believe they are the either the engine bracket fastening 53, or the pad to chassis plate fastening 50.
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks for the help!
20:24 whats the name of that instrument ???
Dial indicator
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks but I mean around the lope? What does that means around the loop??? I'm from Holland so i don't understand that part. 20:28
@@maartenrijsdijk7823 I think you are referring to the attachment to the dial indicator? If so, it's literally a thick piece of wire, actual I believe it's a coat hanger with a polished tip as to not scratch the lifter, stiff enough to be rigid for the measurement, but still bendable enough to make a notch for the camshaft
Hello super interesting video. I'm French, sorry for the translation. But are you ok to give me the clues (encrypted data) in writing to successfully match the manufacturer's standards. THANKS.
Like the Ferrari maintenance manual?
Can anyone confirm something that’s been bugging me please?
I’ve seen YT videos showing an F355 cambelt change without dropping the engine but no one shows replacement of the cambelt tensioners.
I can’t see the point of changing the belt without doing the tensioners at the same time so can the CB tensioners be replaced without dropping the engine?
i believe ratarrossa did replace the tensioners on his engine in belt change.
@@ExoticCarDIY many thanks for confirming!