Oil Eater Cleaner and Degreaser sold at tractor supply. I used it in parts washer tank, mixed 3 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater and then let parts soak for 12 to 24hrs depending on carbon build up. It did great cleaned all parts of titan 5.6 v8, even got the aluminum block in there lol. Came out looking brand new. It says on the site for ultrasonic parts washers, mix 25 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater. Can't wait for part 3!
I already bought the oil eater for part 3! I’m going to look into the tractor supply degreaser. I also want to try powdered borax but I’m not sure if it’s actually good at degreasing or if it just works for cleaning because it’s so gritty. 😂
Great video #2! Except you tested the wrong simple green!!! If you like the green version, the purple HD one is ALL I use now after testing nearly all the products you have the last 3 years in my ultrasonic cleaner. I like commented on your last video, nothing beats the Simple Green Aircraft cleaner for prized aluminum I don’t want to darken or etch or harm in any way, but everything else get Simple Green Purple HD. Thanks again 👍
BTW, in my own testing you can’t go above 40C or you’ll darken aluminum with most products. I restore vintage aluminum RC airplane engines, and some of them are over 60 years old. I’ve found I have to use lukewarm 38C or lower water or I risk darkening old aluminum.
I did buy the purple simple green, but then figured I’d save it for round 3. Also simple green extreme, which I think is the aircraft you speak of. For some reason high temps increase the ph. I’m not sure why because I’m not smart. But I have been noticing, steel likes high ph and aluminum and other soft metals like low ph. So the best all around will most likely be around 7.
@@DeathTollRacingInteresting, I didn’t realize the steels liked the high pH actually. I actually knock the pH down with vinegar on the simple green purple hd whenever I’m going carbs or ordinary aluminum parts that aren’t critical, but I want super clean. It seems to do a better job when I do, and your findings seem to match that. I used to pH my concoctions but now I just eyeball it. Good to know about the high pH on steel. I’ll have to try a test next time. Thanks for all your work in doing these comparisons!
You should pin a comment that shows the cost per tank like you did on the last one. I started using the dishwasher pods after that video and I think a pod then refilling with simple green may give the best results per dollar, but maybe the turbo clean would be better if it's not too pricey
Not sure of the pricing of the turboklean yet, it will be available soon, but is not yet available as tested. Pricing on the tests is all over the place depending on where you get it, but I will give some ballpark figures
Great testing! I just cleaned an entire Totoyta V6 head in my ultrasonic cleaner and all the valve train components. I was using Oil Eater pretty diluted, I think about 10:1 because I ran out, and it still got almost everything spotless. Worked pretty well on carbon, though I did run it for a few hours total. If you get a chance to try Oil Eater, I suspect it will perform quite similar to Simple Green. I think they are overall comparable products, but Oil Eater tends to be a bit cheaper, smells better, and I think it works slightly better on thick grease and oil, though I have yet to do a direct comparison. I don't think you'd have the same issue with an oily finish, but it's possible. Both are pretty affordable on Zoro and about the same price for 1 or 5 gallon quantities. More expensive elsewhere which is why I mention Zoro. Would be interested to see you try adding some Evapo-Rust along with some of your favorite cleaner in a batch of really rusty parts to see how well they come out. Thanks!
Oil eater will be in round 3 for sure. Almost was in round 2. Round 3 is going to be great. I’m going to try and focus on only products that I’m confident will work, and skip the others. I like the idea of adding evapo rust. I think that may be either round 4 when I start playing scientist and mixing stuff. Also I’d like to try and mix until I get a 7.0 ph. I think that will be the secret to not ruining anything.
@@DeathTollRacing How is the round 3 video coming along? I just picked up my first ultrasonic cleaner a few weeks back as I'm fixing up an old ATV and have been wanting one for a while. As far as Evaporust it made easy work of some pretty rusted hardware I put in there. I didn't dilute it either I just put water in the ultrasonic tank and then put the hardware in a mason jar with straight Evaporust.
@@jonathangaliano2617 right on! I need to go pull an engine so I can do the same test. I’m swamped adding on to my shop right now. I have 8 cleaners though…
@@DeathTollRacing Which ultrasonic cleaners have you had good luck with? I have that Harbor Freight 6l but gonna return it and get a different one from Amazon. I want something a little bigger but not sure which one I wanna get yet even though most of them are made in the same place. Where is your shop btw?
Another great test! I did miss the price per fill as you did last time.........this is good info especially for us with the big ultrasonic cleaners. If cleaner 'A' cleans great but costs $50 bucks per fill, and cleaner 'B' cleans almost as good as cleaner 'A' but only costs $2.00 per fill, guess what I'll use! Hopefully you will bring the cost per fill back for the third test.
Yeah. I didn’t know the price on the turbo clean do it kinda stopped me in my tracks. I should have just skipped it. The cylinder 2 cleaner isn’t on the market yet, but will be soon.
Thanks for sharing the video. If you do another Ultrasonic Cleaner Showdown, could you try the Harbor Freight "Super Heavy Duty Degreaser" Also, in Round 1, you wanted to compare the Cascade pods to the powder detergent. Interested to see that too.👍
Again well made video, i enjoyed watching the test, now you have clear leaders in round one and in round two, maybe a third round of the top three from round one and round two just to see what one is clearly doing the best? or a mixem up video, I heard people using simple green with dawn and vinegar for carbs.
I have another roster of suggestions for round 3. Round 4 will be the best of the best and some back yard science playing with ph levels to try and make the perfect one!
The alkaline solutions will usually have sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide in a certain percentile. Alloys and softer metals hate these chemicals. You can clean them nicely, but the timing to neutralise the caustic effect is super critical and will destroy the outer layer if left too long, not to mention not good for the skin. Been there.🤔 So finding an all round cleaner is very hard. It would be best to have a dedicated alloy tub and iron tub with a specialised premium compound.
I’m not surprised that the dawn dish soap was ineffective, but I like the idea of using it as a presoak. I imagine it would be good at degreasing if nothing else.
Interesting video. If you do a third video on this topic, I might suggest for your consideration: 10-30% isopropyl alcohol / water ; diesel or kerosine (with caution of course); 10-30% household ammonia / water; 100% windex ?; Acetone/ATF (with caution of course); 100% WD40
Excellent suggestions. I was trying to avoid the more dangerous ones for on camera. I’d hate for someone to try it and have an accident. I think I have enough ideas for round 3 already and then I’ll start playing scientist and mixing. All of what you recommended could be done in jars though. Also the windex idea is intriguing. 🤔
@@DeathTollRacing I totally understand not wanting to test the more dangerous materials on camera. I wouldn't want anyone's mishaps on my conscience. One thing to note, ammonia will attack copper and will produce very undesirable waste water. I've subscribed and am looking forward to seeing more of your good work.
Yes Windex is basically brake cleaner and gasoline is by far the best for cleaning anything like carburetors etc (in glass jars with no heat)- all good unless exposed to oxygen and spark
Only just started on the ultrasonic cleaner and wanted to find the best solution for bearings and nuts and bolts from an MTB POV. Have a ‘professional’ and domestic stated standard 43khz 800ml cleaner with an ultrasonic cleaner solution for jewellery (citrus). Obviously, you have zinc and nickel plating, aluminium alloy and steel parts and was interested in your results for corrosion, etching etc and want to find something that doesn’t do. damage. Think I used vinegar years ago that made a nut for seat post porous and disintegrated. So need something for the rust. I’m planning on using my cleaner for the bearings in the hubs and all other nuts screws and bolts. Cheers for vids!
Great videos!! Love you WA wall!! Zep-alum or TNT which should etch aluminum less. Still looking for a good solution for heavy mechanical debris on all sorts of parts and tools.
I suppose the damage wise the closer the PH is to 7 for a mixed bath of materials is the go. For a laugh you should try lacquer thinner maybe even diesel as a medium. That will eliminate any corrosion removal and surface affects introduced by extreme PH levels. Neither will cut rust but dried up hydrocarbons? I have used White/mineral spirit as a preclean prior to electroplating parts with a significant oily residue left from machine coolant. It worked well. But any of these could be quite fumy.
Yes, I think getting a ph of 7 would be ideal. It would need to be 7 hot I think. Hot definitely helps, but it raises the ph for some reason that I’m sure someone could explain. I may throw in some sort of penetrating oil on round 3. It will just be kinda expensive, so I’m not really sure if it’ll be a practical use. Also playing with pretreatments. That dawn loosened the carbon and after I threw the dawn valves in the turbo clean and the intake came out crazy clean. It’s in my latest short.
@@DeathTollRacing Your electronic PH meter is sensitive to temp as it uses temp in its resistance calculation. For accurate readings at different temps you should use test strips. The gauge will work at different temps but it needs to be a specific type that uses a secondary thermocouple and the cheap ones dont.
Try using Krud Kutter de greaser. Available at Home Depot and Lowe's. Best de greaser I know of and I've never seen anyone test it in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I will try to get one for round 3. Both my Lowes and Home Depot don't stock it anymore for some reason. I will check amazon. I have my round 3 list pretty fulfilled, and I'm just waiting on an engine to tear down.
TSP Jason at Fireball Tool recommended Zep Floor Stripper for degreasing, I’ve tried it and it works incredibly well. Would be interesting to see how well it works in an ultrasonic cleaner. Different versions of Simple Green.
Next round will have simple green purple and aircraft. Tsp I tried when I very first got it and I can’t remember if it did good or not. I didn’t video it unfortunately. I actually know Jason, we are both in Spokane. I never even thought of floor stripper. That’s a good idea.
Gasoline! I’m sure you don’t want to fill the tub with it, but you can use a glass container with the parts and gas in it and place the container in the water bath. The ultrasonic waves will penetrate the glass container and still clean the items in the gas solution without contaminating your tub. (Big glass pickle jar)
How about taking the rod off the piston and using the best cleaner for each part. I use muriatic for steal -then dip it and shush it around in water then- alcohol then oil.
In general, I wouldn’t recommend washing aluminum and steel parts together anyway. But for my testing here, it interesting to compare how each do on either surface
i have been wondering about baking soda. I wonder if baking soda with a pod or two of laundry cleaner might be good as well. So I have called simple green myself and found out from them that simple green HD and Simple Green aircraft are of the same formulation. No need to test both products. Recommend 3:1 for heavy duty and to not get hotter than 109 degrees f
@@DeathTollRacing I hope my idea makes the cut. Baking soda is alkaline but a mild abrasive. The cleaning pods are more acidic so it may give a thorough cleaning. Plus everyone generally has both In their house and it is inexpensive. The other thing I did for my 30L unit was buy glass loaf pans. I can put distilled water in the unit itself and the cleaning agent in the glass loaf pan with the parts. Thoughts on that idea because loaf pans have handles to pull out the smaller pan and if you have two dissimilar metals you could run different solutions at once like a double boiler.
Purple power works really well on getting stains off concrete but i have no idea what it would do to metal or carbon buildup. Another thing i would like to see is a something first run with the dawn, then rinsed, then run with one of your better performers such as simple green. For what its worth im here because I currently have a very rusty and grimy break caliper bracket in my ultrasonic cleaner and am looking for a better option solution to get it clean.
@@jeffallen3382 That is very interesting. There's so much going on, so many angles to think about. It's all kinda fun though. Probably not if I needed those pistons. LOL
So funny how many products I’ve never even heard of. I just looked up spray 9 and that’s promising. I love krown, and that would be interesting for sure. Round 3 will be very good either way all these.
@@DeathTollRacing spray9 is huge in the automotive and truck world at least in the state of New York. It’s made by the company ITW which is the parent company of Permatex.
It would probably work great! I was avoiding anything flammable in the testing however. Most these ultrasonic are sketchy at best electronically. (I just had the main on/off switch catch fire on one of them) Easy fix, but it could have been bad if I hadn't been in the shop.
For BEST results… If you suspend the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner the machine works far faster than if the basket or part rests on the sides or bottom of tank . Let the machine run to degass the solution ( especially water ) before immersing parts . Imagine if you put tape on a tuning fork… it’s not going to vibrate properly
I'll have to look into Mean Green. It sounds familiar.... I was really trying to avoid flammable products, but I may break that "rule" for mineral sprits.
@@DeathTollRacing I've been using the Zep Industrial Purple for a few years now with great results...I don't have an ultra sonic cleaner. I'll soak bolts, nuts and hardware and they come out very clean. So for a direct comparison to Super Clean my buddy used either the Super clean or Simple Green to clean up a nasty engine bay on his C6 Vette, we pulled the engine for upgrades. Whichever of the two I mentioned did not work well, he followed up with the Zep and took care of what looked like a 10 year power steering pump leak, made a mess. I've also had great result using a Kleen Strip Concrete and Metal Prep...it'll be harsh on the Pistons but great on the rest. Also, have you tried regular TSP, it's cheap.
@@chestrockwell8328 that’s some good observations. I tried tsp when I very first got one and I honestly can’t remember if it worked good or not. It sucks to have the memory of a peanut
I have been taking Gingko biloba for years and I think that it has helped my memory. I'm 74 and my memory is much better than my wife's and she is 64.
I’m avoiding doing that on camera in case someone duplicates it and has an accident. You know, because that would be my fault. 🤦 I bet it works fantastic though.
@@DeathTollRacing I have seen other videos on here using it in a sealed glass container they just put in water in the ultra sonic. Looks like it works really well. Would love to see how it works on a piston and rod.
Oil Eater Cleaner and Degreaser sold at tractor supply. I used it in parts washer tank, mixed 3 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater and then let parts soak for 12 to 24hrs depending on carbon build up. It did great cleaned all parts of titan 5.6 v8, even got the aluminum block in there lol. Came out looking brand new. It says on the site for ultrasonic parts washers, mix 25 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater. Can't wait for part 3!
I already bought the oil eater for part 3! I’m going to look into the tractor supply degreaser. I also want to try powdered borax but I’m not sure if it’s actually good at degreasing or if it just works for cleaning because it’s so gritty. 😂
Great video #2! Except you tested the wrong simple green!!! If you like the green version, the purple HD one is ALL I use now after testing nearly all the products you have the last 3 years in my ultrasonic cleaner. I like commented on your last video, nothing beats the Simple Green Aircraft cleaner for prized aluminum I don’t want to darken or etch or harm in any way, but everything else get Simple Green Purple HD. Thanks again 👍
BTW, in my own testing you can’t go above 40C or you’ll darken aluminum with most products. I restore vintage aluminum RC airplane engines, and some of them are over 60 years old. I’ve found I have to use lukewarm 38C or lower water or I risk darkening old aluminum.
I did buy the purple simple green, but then figured I’d save it for round 3. Also simple green extreme, which I think is the aircraft you speak of.
For some reason high temps increase the ph. I’m not sure why because I’m not smart. But I have been noticing, steel likes high ph and aluminum and other soft metals like low ph. So the best all around will most likely be around 7.
@@DeathTollRacingInteresting, I didn’t realize the steels liked the high pH actually. I actually knock the pH down with vinegar on the simple green purple hd whenever I’m going carbs or ordinary aluminum parts that aren’t critical, but I want super clean. It seems to do a better job when I do, and your findings seem to match that. I used to pH my concoctions but now I just eyeball it. Good to know about the high pH on steel. I’ll have to try a test next time. Thanks for all your work in doing these comparisons!
@@halflife82 I’m not sure if that’s definite, but it’s a trend so far. Steel high ph, aluminum low ph.
You should pin a comment that shows the cost per tank like you did on the last one. I started using the dishwasher pods after that video and I think a pod then refilling with simple green may give the best results per dollar, but maybe the turbo clean would be better if it's not too pricey
Not sure of the pricing of the turboklean yet, it will be available soon, but is not yet available as tested. Pricing on the tests is all over the place depending on where you get it, but I will give some ballpark figures
Great testing! I just cleaned an entire Totoyta V6 head in my ultrasonic cleaner and all the valve train components. I was using Oil Eater pretty diluted, I think about 10:1 because I ran out, and it still got almost everything spotless. Worked pretty well on carbon, though I did run it for a few hours total. If you get a chance to try Oil Eater, I suspect it will perform quite similar to Simple Green. I think they are overall comparable products, but Oil Eater tends to be a bit cheaper, smells better, and I think it works slightly better on thick grease and oil, though I have yet to do a direct comparison. I don't think you'd have the same issue with an oily finish, but it's possible. Both are pretty affordable on Zoro and about the same price for 1 or 5 gallon quantities. More expensive elsewhere which is why I mention Zoro. Would be interested to see you try adding some Evapo-Rust along with some of your favorite cleaner in a batch of really rusty parts to see how well they come out. Thanks!
Oil eater will be in round 3 for sure. Almost was in round 2. Round 3 is going to be great. I’m going to try and focus on only products that I’m confident will work, and skip the others.
I like the idea of adding evapo rust. I think that may be either round 4 when I start playing scientist and mixing stuff. Also I’d like to try and mix until I get a 7.0 ph. I think that will be the secret to not ruining anything.
@@DeathTollRacing Love it!
@@DeathTollRacing How is the round 3 video coming along? I just picked up my first ultrasonic cleaner a few weeks back as I'm fixing up an old ATV and have been wanting one for a while. As far as Evaporust it made easy work of some pretty rusted hardware I put in there. I didn't dilute it either I just put water in the ultrasonic tank and then put the hardware in a mason jar with straight Evaporust.
@@jonathangaliano2617 right on! I need to go pull an engine so I can do the same test. I’m swamped adding on to my shop right now. I have 8 cleaners though…
@@DeathTollRacing Which ultrasonic cleaners have you had good luck with? I have that Harbor Freight 6l but gonna return it and get a different one from Amazon. I want something a little bigger but not sure which one I wanna get yet even though most of them are made in the same place. Where is your shop btw?
Another great test! I did miss the price per fill as you did last time.........this is good info especially for us with the big ultrasonic cleaners. If cleaner 'A' cleans great but costs $50 bucks per fill, and cleaner 'B' cleans almost as good as cleaner 'A' but only costs $2.00 per fill, guess what I'll use! Hopefully you will bring the cost per fill back for the third test.
Yeah. I didn’t know the price on the turbo clean do it kinda stopped me in my tracks. I should have just skipped it. The cylinder 2 cleaner isn’t on the market yet, but will be soon.
Thanks for sharing the video.
If you do another Ultrasonic Cleaner Showdown, could you try the Harbor Freight "Super Heavy Duty Degreaser"
Also, in Round 1, you wanted to compare the Cascade pods to the powder detergent. Interested to see that too.👍
Yes definitely will be in round 3! I have more products coming already for it. Even have the next victim motor picked out. 😂
Looking forward to round 3 .. Thank You for sharing .. Cheers :)
Thank you!!
Again well made video, i enjoyed watching the test, now you have clear leaders in round one and in round two, maybe a third round of the top three from round one and round two just to see what one is clearly doing the best? or a mixem up video, I heard people using simple green with dawn and vinegar for carbs.
I have another roster of suggestions for round 3. Round 4 will be the best of the best and some back yard science playing with ph levels to try and make the perfect one!
The lower the pH the more acidic the product is , the higher is considered alkaline . Interesting results .
It’s definitely interesting. Pretty fun backyard science.
And aluminum doesn't like alkaline solutions. Ruined a set of carburetors learning this.
The alkaline solutions will usually have sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide in a certain percentile. Alloys and softer metals hate these chemicals. You can clean them nicely, but the timing to neutralise the caustic effect is super critical and will destroy the outer layer if left too long, not to mention not good for the skin. Been there.🤔
So finding an all round cleaner is very hard.
It would be best to have a dedicated alloy tub and iron tub with a specialised premium compound.
I’m not surprised that the dawn dish soap was ineffective, but I like the idea of using it as a presoak. I imagine it would be good at degreasing if nothing else.
Agreed. I like the precook idea on the carbon especially. This has been more interesting than I had originally thought it would be
simple green precision aircraft cleaner. It was recommended to me as a final clean before coating/welding.
I just got some for round 3. I’m excited to try that one
Interesting video. If you do a third video on this topic, I might suggest for your consideration:
10-30% isopropyl alcohol / water ;
diesel or kerosine (with caution of course);
10-30% household ammonia / water;
100% windex ?;
Acetone/ATF (with caution of course);
100% WD40
Excellent suggestions. I was trying to avoid the more dangerous ones for on camera. I’d hate for someone to try it and have an accident. I think I have enough ideas for round 3 already and then I’ll start playing scientist and mixing. All of what you recommended could be done in jars though. Also the windex idea is intriguing. 🤔
@@DeathTollRacing I totally understand not wanting to test the more dangerous materials on camera. I wouldn't want anyone's mishaps on my conscience. One thing to note, ammonia will attack copper and will produce very undesirable waste water. I've subscribed and am looking forward to seeing more of your good work.
Yes Windex is basically brake cleaner and gasoline is by far the best for cleaning anything like carburetors etc (in glass jars with no heat)- all good unless exposed to oxygen and spark
Only just started on the ultrasonic cleaner and wanted to find the best solution for bearings and nuts and bolts from an MTB POV. Have a ‘professional’ and domestic stated standard 43khz 800ml cleaner with an ultrasonic cleaner solution for jewellery (citrus). Obviously, you have zinc and nickel plating, aluminium alloy and steel parts and was interested in your results for corrosion, etching etc and want to find something that doesn’t do. damage. Think I used vinegar years ago that made a nut for seat post porous and disintegrated. So need something for the rust. I’m planning on using my cleaner for the bearings in the hubs and all other nuts screws and bolts. Cheers for vids!
Hope they help! Good luck! I’m planning on a round 3 this winter. I have a few more to try
Well done…organized, fair and interesting. Bravo.
Thank you!
Try it with straight up acetone. It'll need to be in a sealed container though because a lot of it will evaporate.
I would imagine that would work great if it can stay contained. It will definitely try to evaporate quick, but probably a good no heat option.
simple green or mean green and laundry detergent great video
Laundry detergent I have not tried yet. Is mean green a simple green knockoff? I haven’t tried it either.
@@DeathTollRacing No. It's a Rustoleum product, available at Dollar General. It works great.
@@SNELLERIZED odd... Simple green says in the package not to use on aluminum parts.
And you say LA Awesome turned your chainsaw carb black? 🤣
@@jeffallen3382 Have you tried them for yourself?
Great videos!! Love you WA wall!! Zep-alum or TNT which should etch aluminum less. Still looking for a good solution for heavy mechanical debris on all sorts of parts and tools.
Thanks! Next round will have simple green aviation which I think is similar to the zep-alum.
I suppose the damage wise the closer the PH is to 7 for a mixed bath of materials is the go. For a laugh you should try lacquer thinner maybe even diesel as a medium. That will eliminate any corrosion removal and surface affects introduced by extreme PH levels. Neither will cut rust but dried up hydrocarbons? I have used White/mineral spirit as a preclean prior to electroplating parts with a significant oily residue left from machine coolant. It worked well. But any of these could be quite fumy.
Yes, I think getting a ph of 7 would be ideal. It would need to be 7 hot I think. Hot definitely helps, but it raises the ph for some reason that I’m sure someone could explain. I may throw in some sort of penetrating oil on round 3. It will just be kinda expensive, so I’m not really sure if it’ll be a practical use. Also playing with pretreatments. That dawn loosened the carbon and after I threw the dawn valves in the turbo clean and the intake came out crazy clean. It’s in my latest short.
@@DeathTollRacing Your electronic PH meter is sensitive to temp as it uses temp in its resistance calculation. For accurate readings at different temps you should use test strips. The gauge will work at different temps but it needs to be a specific type that uses a secondary thermocouple and the cheap ones dont.
@@dazaspc I discovered that. Mine makes the ph higher the hotter it gets, which I think is actually opposite of the real world if I’m not mistaken.
Try using Krud Kutter de greaser. Available at Home Depot and Lowe's. Best de greaser I know of and I've never seen anyone test it in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I will try to get one for round 3. Both my Lowes and Home Depot don't stock it anymore for some reason. I will check amazon. I have my round 3 list pretty fulfilled, and I'm just waiting on an engine to tear down.
Is it possible to also include a cost per gallon column next time? Just to also get a price / performance comparison. Thanks
Good thinking!
@@DeathTollRacing Great job on the video by the way. Thank you!
TSP
Jason at Fireball Tool recommended Zep Floor Stripper for degreasing, I’ve tried it and it works incredibly well. Would be interesting to see how well it works in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Different versions of Simple Green.
Next round will have simple green purple and aircraft. Tsp I tried when I very first got it and I can’t remember if it did good or not. I didn’t video it unfortunately. I actually know Jason, we are both in Spokane. I never even thought of floor stripper. That’s a good idea.
Gasoline! I’m sure you don’t want to fill the tub with it, but you can use a glass container with the parts and gas in it and place the container in the water bath. The ultrasonic waves will penetrate the glass container and still clean the items in the gas solution without contaminating your tub. (Big glass pickle jar)
The product you're searching for is Mean Green! It will actually brighten aluminum and does great on steel as well.
@@SNELLERIZED and mean green is not recommended for aluminum.
So how did LA Awesome turn your chainsaw carb black? 🤣
@@jeffallen3382 Laugh all you want, but Mean Green works. Don't knock it unless you've tried it.
Excellent!!
Sometimes heat will make a difference on if it’s good or not on aluminum.
@@DeathTollRacing I used the Mean Green with heat.
My submissions:
Tide
OxyClean
Kerosene
Krud Kutter
Would be interesting to see surfactant vs solvent.
Those are great ideas! I’m avoiding flammable for videos. I don’t need someone having an accident on my conscience.
How about taking the rod off the piston and using the best cleaner for each part. I use muriatic for steal -then dip it and shush it around in water then- alcohol then oil.
In general, I wouldn’t recommend washing aluminum and steel parts together anyway. But for my testing here, it interesting to compare how each do on either surface
Try Slip2000 Ultra-Clean. It's specifically made for ultrasonic cleaners.
Great suggestion!
SharperTek’s Shellac Buster for ultrasonic is supposed to be a good one.
definitely worth looking into that!
@@DeathTollRacing ill go half in if you plan on doing this soon.
i have been wondering about baking soda. I wonder if baking soda with a pod or two of laundry cleaner might be good as well. So I have called simple green myself and found out from them that simple green HD and Simple Green aircraft are of the same formulation. No need to test both products. Recommend 3:1 for heavy duty and to not get hotter than 109 degrees f
Those are great ideas!
@@DeathTollRacing I hope my idea makes the cut. Baking soda is alkaline but a mild abrasive. The cleaning pods are more acidic so it may give a thorough cleaning. Plus everyone generally has both In their house and it is inexpensive. The other thing I did for my 30L unit was buy glass loaf pans. I can put distilled water in the unit itself and the cleaning agent in the glass loaf pan with the parts. Thoughts on that idea because loaf pans have handles to pull out the smaller pan and if you have two dissimilar metals you could run different solutions at once like a double boiler.
Purple power works really well on getting stains off concrete but i have no idea what it would do to metal or carbon buildup. Another thing i would like to see is a something first run with the dawn, then rinsed, then run with one of your better performers such as simple green. For what its worth im here because I currently have a very rusty and grimy break caliper bracket in my ultrasonic cleaner and am looking for a better option solution to get it clean.
I did salts gone in round one and it did pretty good on the rust without causing damage
Thats odd the LA Awesome (yellow cleaner) damaged the aluminum. I have never had mine damage aluminum when I've used it.
I believe it’s the heat. Heat increase alkalinity. At least that’s my thinking. I’m probably wrong though
@@DeathTollRacing I warm it up too. But I have always used it full strength... but I don't see how that would change anything.
Thanks for doing this!
@@jeffallen3382 That is very interesting. There's so much going on, so many angles to think about. It's all kinda fun though. Probably not if I needed those pistons. LOL
@@DeathTollRacing The heat raises the PH level of plain water, so you can imagine what it does to solutions...
I've heard that mineral spirits work well.
I bet it would!
I would love to see fabuloso tested
Great suggestion!
Spray 9, spray9 “Grease off”, and Krown Penetrate oil.
So funny how many products I’ve never even heard of. I just looked up spray 9 and that’s promising. I love krown, and that would be interesting for sure. Round 3 will be very good either way all these.
@@DeathTollRacing spray9 is huge in the automotive and truck world at least in the state of New York. It’s made by the company ITW which is the parent company of Permatex.
@@citystars1117 interesting. I found it. Thank you!
Wonder what straight stoddard solvent would do? For car parts. Only place I have found it is tractor supply.
It would probably work great! I was avoiding anything flammable in the testing however. Most these ultrasonic are sketchy at best electronically. (I just had the main on/off switch catch fire on one of them) Easy fix, but it could have been bad if I hadn't been in the shop.
For BEST results…
If you suspend the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner the machine works far faster than if the basket or part rests on the sides or bottom of tank .
Let the machine run to degass the solution ( especially water ) before immersing parts . Imagine if you put tape on a tuning fork… it’s not going to vibrate properly
I’m actually going to do a video on exactly that! I’ve been meaning to for a while now
Can you try Mean Green, also Mineral Sprits.
I'll have to look into Mean Green. It sounds familiar.... I was really trying to avoid flammable products, but I may break that "rule" for mineral sprits.
Look at including Blue Gold cleaner Degreaser.
I'll look it up. That's the first I've heard of it!
Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser.
Do you feel the zep is better than super clean? I always thought they were the same. But I’m just assuming.
@@DeathTollRacing I've been using the Zep Industrial Purple for a few years now with great results...I don't have an ultra sonic cleaner. I'll soak bolts, nuts and hardware and they come out very clean. So for a direct comparison to Super Clean my buddy used either the Super clean or Simple Green to clean up a nasty engine bay on his C6 Vette, we pulled the engine for upgrades. Whichever of the two I mentioned did not work well, he followed up with the Zep and took care of what looked like a 10 year power steering pump leak, made a mess.
I've also had great result using a Kleen Strip Concrete and Metal Prep...it'll be harsh on the Pistons but great on the rest. Also, have you tried regular TSP, it's cheap.
@@chestrockwell8328 that’s some good observations. I tried tsp when I very first got one and I honestly can’t remember if it worked good or not. It sucks to have the memory of a peanut
I have been taking Gingko biloba for years and I think that it has helped my memory. I'm 74 and my memory is much better than my wife's and she is 64.
@@grantdavis5992 interesting. Thank you!
Did you ever try diesel?
I think it would work great, but I trust these machines 0% to not light it on fire. I’m avoiding anything flammable.
Simple green aircraft in the blue bottle please.
That is on its way for round 3. Can’t find it locally for some reason, but it seems common enough!
I'd try Evapo-Rust.
I have some for the next batch! Great idea
Hi there would you use the simple green extreme with like a Table spoon or so of Dawn to see if it would take the oily residue off it?
good idea. I have a round 3 coming up, then I think I may try doing some combo type things like you suggested with the best of the best!
You need another 3+3 Square Body Dually in your life? I know a guy, hell I am the guy lol. I've got a nice one here in Clarkston 2hs south of you.
Ummmmm. Not technically. 😂 4x4?
Meguiar's D10101 All Purpose Cleaner
Good one!
Purple stuff.
I did super clean in round 1. Simple green purple will be in round 3!
Household cleaners outperform ... Simple green, Dawn, Tide.... cleaning with out corrosion is good.
Try 30% vinegar from home depot
I was not aware of that. Hmmm.
Im not quite sure but it may darken metals.
Purple power
Round 1 I did a purple. I think it was super clean. It was rough on the aluminum and made it black if I remember correctly.
The best possible cleaner is gasoline. Put in a glass jar then put the parts in there and set in the cleaner. No heat
I imagine that would be good
has anyone tried using ultrasonic on painted parts? i don't want to damage the paint, just remove the grease and dirt.
It’s hit and miss depending on the quality of the paint.
Zep citrus Heavy Duty degreaser
Round 1 has it. Spoiler, but I don’t think it did great. I could be wrong though.
Round 1; Ultrasonic Cleaner Showdown; Cheap vs Expensive Alternative Solvents / Solutions!
th-cam.com/video/NRP5ub9qycE/w-d-xo.html
Dez Nuts! lol
Alconox
🤔 good idea
Seafoam
Interesting. I wonder what as a base. I don't think would work with water.
@@DeathTollRacing Seafoam, per the current MSDS, is 40-60% Pale Oil (CAS 64742-54-7), 25-35% Naphtha, and 10-20% Isopropyl Alcohol "IPA"
Try gasoline!
I’m avoiding doing that on camera in case someone duplicates it and has an accident. You know, because that would be my fault. 🤦 I bet it works fantastic though.
@@DeathTollRacing I have seen other videos on here using it in a sealed glass container they just put in water in the ultra sonic. Looks like it works really well. Would love to see how it works on a piston and rod.
@@NAS_Performancemaybe I’ll do that on the next one with a huge disclaimer. 😂