As others have pointed out, Muriatic acid is no joke.... It gets rid of rust, but it will also eat the metal if you leave it in there too long. You will also need to rinse it off well and oil it immediately or the rust will come back quickly. The fumes off the acid will eat everything around / cause corrosion, so you want to use it in a well ventilated area or outside. It also reacts violently with aluminum, so if you are trying to remove rust from something that is attached to aluminum, that's good to know. I have used it for removing rust, and while it does work, I don't consider it a good enough solution to keep it around. Great video, I'm shocked it doesn't have more views. Keep it up.
I see people using acid based rust removers in ultrasonics. If the unit has a drain valve, please don’t do that if you’re going to fill the tank directly with the acid. Yes, the tank likely is high quality enough so that it won’t be a problem. But the valve body is brass with usually, a stainless valve and a teflon seal. Some cheap valves use a brass ball (these are ball valves, after all). Any brass will dissolve in acid. Even relatively weak acid. At some point the valve will begin to leak. It’s not worth it as acid rust removing damages the good metal as well as the rust. Muriatic acid is mostly used for cleaning concrete and old dirty wood. I really don’t recommend it for anything else. The Evaporust does the least damage to unrusted metal. That’s what I’ve been using for years. There’s really no reason to try to rush any of this. Five minutes is fine for very light surface rust, but for real rust, just leave it in for the full 30 minutes. Normally, it takes a full day without ultrasonics. And remember to rinse all of them with water immediately after removing them from the baths. Then spray with WD-40 to remove the water so it doesn’t flash rust.
Thanks for this video! Very helpful to know the difference between each solution. And i never would've thought to put the rusty parts in another container inside the cleaner, so thanks for helping with cleanup! 😅
After cleaning with any of these products (except the muriatic acid), you need to thoroughly rinse off the part with water and then either protect it with a coating of oil or paint it. The part cleaned with muriatic acid needs to be immediately soaked in a solution of water and baking soda after cleaning to neutralize the acid, then rinsed off with plain water, before oiling or painting. Without neutralization, the acid will continue to erode the metal and could damage it beyond repair. Muriatic acid works the fastest and best because it doesn't actually discriminate between the rust and the underlying metal. It just starts attacking the exposed surface of the metal until you either take it out and neutralize it or the metal is completely gone. You have to remain vigilant to remove the part from the muriatic acid just after the rust has been removed, but before the underlying metal is damaged. A tricky balancing act. The other rust removal products you tested may be slower, but are much safer to use, both for the part being cleaned and yourself.
The muriatic acid does a good job but it will rust everything in your garage. You better do it outside. I use it before i zinc plate to get the old zinc off.
one thing.. dont put chrome in the ultrasonic you may be OK but they will remove chrome. if you look up chrome removal it will say the two main ways are acid and.... with an ultrasonic cleaner
Rust kutter is also a very good brand. I’d say it’s almost as good as Krud Kutter based on the results I saw from Repair Geeks video, but you get a lot more product for less cost. Maybe try that if you do another test like this again.
Another guy on you tube did it in a Ultrasonic, He found Acidic based Toilet bowl cleaner was WAY faster than all those other things this guy tested..... FYI
You have the link to that video? Picked up a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and need something for getting rust off of fastners and was gonna just go with evaporust but something cheaper that actually works would be nice.
Especially with the plastic cups stacked inside empty plastic cups, there was no meaningful vibration getting to the fluid the bolts were in. The Ultrasonic Cleaner was set decoration and a timer for this video, not a tool.
As others have pointed out, Muriatic acid is no joke....
It gets rid of rust, but it will also eat the metal if you leave it in there too long. You will also need to rinse it off well and oil it immediately or the rust will come back quickly.
The fumes off the acid will eat everything around / cause corrosion, so you want to use it in a well ventilated area or outside. It also reacts violently with aluminum, so if you are trying to remove rust from something that is attached to aluminum, that's good to know. I have used it for removing rust, and while it does work, I don't consider it a good enough solution to keep it around.
Great video, I'm shocked it doesn't have more views. Keep it up.
I see people using acid based rust removers in ultrasonics. If the unit has a drain valve, please don’t do that if you’re going to fill the tank directly with the acid. Yes, the tank likely is high quality enough so that it won’t be a problem. But the valve body is brass with usually, a stainless valve and a teflon seal. Some cheap valves use a brass ball (these are ball valves, after all). Any brass will dissolve in acid. Even relatively weak acid. At some point the valve will begin to leak. It’s not worth it as acid rust removing damages the good metal as well as the rust.
Muriatic acid is mostly used for cleaning concrete and old dirty wood. I really don’t recommend it for anything else. The Evaporust does the least damage to unrusted metal. That’s what I’ve been using for years. There’s really no reason to try to rush any of this. Five minutes is fine for very light surface rust, but for real rust, just leave it in for the full 30 minutes. Normally, it takes a full day without ultrasonics. And remember to rinse all of them with water immediately after removing them from the baths. Then spray with WD-40 to remove the water so it doesn’t flash rust.
I bet he's the kind of guy that opens the oven door every 5 minutes to see if the cookies are done.
Thanks for this video! Very helpful to know the difference between each solution. And i never would've thought to put the rusty parts in another container inside the cleaner, so thanks for helping with cleanup! 😅
After cleaning with any of these products (except the muriatic acid), you need to thoroughly rinse off the part with water and then either protect it with a coating of oil or paint it. The part cleaned with muriatic acid needs to be immediately soaked in a solution of water and baking soda after cleaning to neutralize the acid, then rinsed off with plain water, before oiling or painting. Without neutralization, the acid will continue to erode the metal and could damage it beyond repair.
Muriatic acid works the fastest and best because it doesn't actually discriminate between the rust and the underlying metal. It just starts attacking the exposed surface of the metal until you either take it out and neutralize it or the metal is completely gone. You have to remain vigilant to remove the part from the muriatic acid just after the rust has been removed, but before the underlying metal is damaged. A tricky balancing act. The other rust removal products you tested may be slower, but are much safer to use, both for the part being cleaned and yourself.
The muriatic acid does a good job but it will rust everything in your garage. You better do it outside. I use it before i zinc plate to get the old zinc off.
one thing.. dont put chrome in the ultrasonic you may be OK but they will remove chrome. if you look up chrome removal it will say the two main ways are acid and.... with an ultrasonic cleaner
Your vid sure answered my question. Thanks man.
Are any if the of the products non-toxic? Obviously not the muriatic acid...
What brand and size is that Ultrasonic cleaner?
Rust kutter is also a very good brand. I’d say it’s almost as good as Krud Kutter based on the results I saw from Repair Geeks video, but you get a lot more product for less cost. Maybe try that if you do another test like this again.
This test would of been better if you took old rusted bolts instead of fresh rust. Everyone knows it harder to take off OLD rust
My thoughts exactly. It’s absolutely no shortage of rusty parts on this earth.😂
Another guy on you tube did it in a Ultrasonic, He found Acidic based Toilet bowl cleaner was WAY faster than all those other things this guy tested..... FYI
You have the link to that video? Picked up a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and need something for getting rust off of fastners and was gonna just go with evaporust but something cheaper that actually works would be nice.
@@jonathangaliano2617
th-cam.com/video/AbLrN9PWsbA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Steve%27sSmallEngineSaloon
Muriatic acid will remove zinc coating On bolts and nuts in a couple of minutes
You should use glass containers instead of plastic in an ultrasonic cleaner. Plastic soaks up the vibrations.
Especially with the plastic cups stacked inside empty plastic cups, there was no meaningful vibration getting to the fluid the bolts were in. The Ultrasonic Cleaner was set decoration and a timer for this video, not a tool.
That’s not really true. Plastic cups are fine.
in the tub is it tap water
just saw your hack for per steering line. Man! great hack and N. VA is really pretty.
Any new videos in the works it’s been a while?
your machine is so quiet! mine makes a loud buzzing noise ... is that normal?
Buzzing is the sound of the ultrasonic and the resulting vibration. It’s normal.
Thanks bro!
I wonder what happens when you blend vinegar with citric acid. Anyone who knows?
Not much different than either alone. Citric acid is weaker.
why dont you get something 75 years old and rusty for a test, new bolts with surface rust can be wiped off with a baby wipe
Good job in sharing
Yesirrrrr
Good video but please don't move around so much. I'm getting seasick.
I wouldn't use muriatic acid since it causes hydrogen embrittlement in steel.