Proving Grounds Opinion Corner: Worth it to buy a Losi Lasernut? Also, long winded ranting!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2022
- And some really ugly lawn-darting. Excuse one: I haven't jumped anything in awhile; excuse two: the Lasernut's RTR suspension is NOT helping me.
I don't apologize for that pseudo-pun. At all. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Awesome review. You went into so much detail about the Losi and held my attention throughout. It seems like a great buggy mainly because it looks great and preforms well. I don't really think it's set up for jumps but it's just an all around driver. I honestly think it would be great for the sand dunes.
New SUB! Great insight on Lasernut. Gorgeous presentation. Lackluster performance. I really wanted to like it. You had me at SC8 😂. Wish they brought back 1/8 again
I think you & the other guy are 2 of the best narrators o YT or in at least the vids I tend to watch. I really enjoy your videos. When I 1st saw the Lasernut it reminded me of a Twin Hammers but I see it isn’t even close. Watching that makes me want to get out my Redcat Shredder & bash it around but it’s just to cold & me & plastic don’t like cold.
Crawlers are definitely better suited to the cold... not that I really much know what that is. Round these parts, anything below 40º and we just stay inside. But when the mercury goes the other way? No problem. Not uncommon to temp the rig coming off the course and the tires are 120º.
cool rc and awesome information,great video
Sweet video! I run factory motor 6s through a Typhon esc. Naturally, spur gear went. While installing the Vitavon spur I jammed 20 million in the center diff. Whole new beast. Honestly, I don't know how it stays together. But it's been a champ.
There's something to be said for 50/50 torque split. I've been tinkering with a Limitless, which essentially has a giant pinion gear for a spur-- no differential action at all-- and it's easier to get into and out of a drift than anything I've driven previously.
@@CrawlerCanyon Stiff/ locked center diffs really even out the power distribution. Now I will say there are trade offs with both. While my driving style favors locked diffs, it's not what's going to help you on a track.
Not gonna lie. That first dirt jump with the commentary and slow-mo had me dying 😂💀
Why do people buy a vehicle designed for one application, use it for a completely different application, then bash it because it doesn't perform as they want? Does Losi (Horizon) market this as a basher? This is a scale rock racer, not a basher designed for big air jumps. If you want an indestructible basher, buy an Arrma. Stiffening the suspension up to handle big air makes it uncompliant enough for what it was designed to do; rock race. Suspension setup for the task it's meant to do is paramount in any vehicle. Would you buy a Corvette and complain that is sucked at rock crawling? Pick the right tool for the job at hand, THEN review accordingly... Not to say the Lasernut is perfect, but let's keep its design intent in mind when we do reviews, please.
I think I was reasonable in my "review" of the Lasernut-- which is to say that it's overpriced for what it is, nowhere near durable enough to serve as a proper rock racer, and doesn't do very well as a basher either. The RTR electronics don't match the pricepoint (including active stability management on this vehicle makes zero sense) and oh-- most notably-- while it exists some 7-8 years after, Associated sold the SC8e for LESS than what Horizon charges for the Lasernut. The SC8 was a stubby-armed truggy, with the durability to match. The Lasernut is a long-WB Tenacity Pro with a buggy body on it-- which is how the front end got play in it before it ever went off a single jump. The Lasernut's failings aside, no one is qualified to tell me what to do with my Lasernut that I bought with my money. If I want to do speed runs in it or race it on an oval, it's a toy car, I can do whatever I want with it.
Which is not to say you're at all wrong-- the Lasernut only ended up in my hands because it showed up on Woot! at a steep discount. Had I to do it again, I'd have bought a Typhon.
@@CrawlerCanyon I agree 100% with Michael on this...No-One telling you what you can't do with Your RC. But. Then again you doing a "Review" on a Rock Racer, not a basher. So your "Review" is so far from what this RC intended use is its just stupid. In regard to the Typhon, I really hope you waste the $449+ on it, in hopes of thinking it's a basher, cause well...It's not, it's a buggy...Awaiting your review of that for sure.
If your "rock racer" can't handle a little bashing, it's not going to handle rock racing either. The Losi Lasernut is a stretched Tenacity Pro. It's doesn't get to be a rock racer just because Losi says so. End of. I'm curious as to what you gentlemen think I should be doing with the Lasenut to "test it properly." Because I can all but guarantee that any --proper-- testing would end up with the remaining usable parts being shoveled into a bag.
All anyone really needs to know about the Losi Lasernut is that Google Auto-fill brings back "Losi Lasernut Upgrades" and "Losi Lasernut Problems" in the top five. Oh, and just as any car on four wheels is a racecar if you use it to go racing, any R/C under the sun is a basher if you, you know... bash with it. The notion that someone can "use their toy car wrong" is fantastically elitist. So good on ya.
I know this is an older video, but maybe you’ll read this. I have this RC , I never jump it because I don’t think it’s meant to be a basher. Works killer just running it on wide dirt trail. IMO.
A Losi Lasernut could survive about 10% of what an actual Ultra 4 buggy does in a typical event. th-cam.com/video/5nQGfoHj79g/w-d-xo.html
I still don't understand why everyone is so protective of a long-armed, stretched Tenacity Pro.
Mine I have had for about a year. The loose front tires on mine were caused by loosened wheel nuts. Also, the servo replacement did not fix my steering issues since the root cause of the steering is the weak servo saver spring. I absolutely love this truck.
I've looked it over a few times, and it really just seems to come down to cumulative slop-- there's just a little bit of play in every point along the steering chain. Some in the hollow balls, some in the rod ends, some in the kingpins. It seems floppy from the factory.
Mines pretty sloppy as well, but still drives and handles great. Just switched over to a Protek servo and it made a world of difference in terms of steering. Took me a while to get it all figured out and recalibrated ( this is my first RC car) but man, I love this thing. I naturally like to upgrade parts In things I buy, so this truck and its issues will serve well.
Did you change the servo saver spring? If so, to what spring?
RTR = ...Ready To Replace. AWESOME VIDEO!!!
This is a big part of my general avoidance of RTRs. I know the included electronics are gonna be junk (the ESC from the Lasernut is the only bit of electronics still in use) but the Lasernut was surprising in that it basically needs "upgrades" right out of the box... like, they aren't optional. Still has the sloppiest front end I think I've ever seen. Probably half an inch of play to either side.
Great commentary
Best bang 4 the buck.hello from v&b speed a new rc community channel ✌
It feels wrong to have no reciever box but all late model spektrum recievers are waterproof and have "reliakote" coating. I have ran them in the wet and wet them while hosing off and cleaning and never had issues... comprehensive look at this vehicle though covering pretty much everything.
Cheers mate 👍
Cheers mate 👍
It raised an eyebrow from me for sure, as I thought that for AVC to work, the RX had to be sitting flat. That may still be the case, because the 2 minutes I tried to use AVC (on flat ground) I rolled the thing about 5 times.
@@CrawlerCanyon you can recalibrate the reciever in any position you like... spektrum have an easy to follow youtube video..
Cheers 👍
Can you please make a video on how to pull the center diff out, and how to put more grease in it? Thanks.
Why they don't do something like a Lasernut on their 1/8 truggy platform in both nitro and electric is beyond me. Great video.
I genuinely have no idea, as that's what the SC8 essentially was-- a truggy with little A-arms and SC tires. So everything was overbuilt. But the Lasernut has miraculously not broken yet, so I dunno. Engineers likely know more than I do.
Am I right in thinking the “sweet jump” line is from napoleon dynamite? Because that is just frosting on the cake of a great video. Always like the honest no bull shit way you present your content 👍
No matter how many times I see it, when he takes that bike off of that 4" high "jump" and just top-bars himself right in the crotch, I laugh. Every time. Forever.
Wow that “sweet” dirt jump landing looked horrible. So impressed it didn’t break.
I've been surprised by it as well. The driveshafts are tiny, I thought one would let go for sure. The front end is exceptionally sloppy (particularly after a few "landings" ), but stays in one piece somehow.
RTR Rule of thumb:
1. Always be prepared to spend 1/2 the cost in upgrades. Being honest!
2. Never had a good RTR servo...Ever
3. 12mm Hex, lol, go 17mm asap
4. IF run 4S, consider BELTED tires
5. A Arms wear quick, if used on rough terrain
Summary:
Savox Servo $92
17mm Hot Racing Hex Upgrade $28
Pro Line Wheels / Tires $90
Tekno / RPM arms $35 all around
1 million Diff Fluid ASAP $9
50k Diff Fluid $8
I can't think of a more ringing endorsement for a vehicle than, "just put this $300 into it to make it workable."
I'll take a HARD pass on the ProLine one way or the other.
Did changing the center diff fluid to 500,000 produce the results you were looking for? I’m new to this game so I am wondering what performance gains you experienced with that mod. Also, would adding heavier oil to the shocks help the rig handle better in any way? Thanks for the great review!
I would say 500k is probably the starting point, depending on your surface. I've read about most people just going straight to 1M, and I'm generally considering just silly putty locking my center diff. The shocks absolutely need thicker oil, and really need stiffer springs as well. I still have no idea why Losi chose to build this out of a Tenacity and not an 8ight. If they had built the Lasernut the was AE did the SC8e, this would be an absolute monster.
@@CrawlerCanyon You aware this was designed off a Rock Racer right? Wasn't by any means designed to JUMP. I agree with needing a fan, and better Servo. Shocks weren't designed for jumps man.
I was hoping you got this with year end sale. That does help a little. Anymore you need $500 to get an RTR and $100 to finish. You mentioned the sc8 did you get the sc8.1 kit or rtr with castle electronics?
The Woot sale on it combined with Prime put the Lasernut on my doorstep for $419. So I'm still feeling pretty good about it. As to the Associated, I've got the SC8.2e-- which came with the Reedy-badged stuff, which I never looked into what it was rebadges of. It's unquestionably the burliest rig I've ever owned-- I've never broken a single part on that truck, save for bodies, which I've utterly destroyed two of. I've changed nothing but the tires, steering servo, and radio in all the years I've owned it. That Reedy 1515-SL after blasting through a 5000mah 4S pack will be like 130ºF.
But now that the parts for it are 80% discontinued (god help me if I ever needed a chassis) I'm afraid of putting it into a wall and rendering it a shelfer.
@CrawlerCanyon I bought a used Lasernut with a 3s battery. And a spektrum s2100 charger for $150. Now I'm trying to figure out the best upgrades.
Heard the center diff is trash 😔🗑️. Now on sale at Horizon, most likely close out.
👍💯
You got like 3 feet of air that time. Can I try it really quick?
th-cam.com/video/V9zrfcmDVH4/w-d-xo.html
The spektrum servos are weak I don't know why they even put them in anything bigger than 1/10 at best
I've been consistently amazed at the weakness of Spektrum servos that come in RTRs. I mean, Traxxas is kinda renowned for the "expensive cheap" servo, but the 2075 that comes in a TRX-4 is at least usable. I've yet to meet a Spektrum servo that stayed in the rig for even an hour. The servo that came in the Arrma Kraton literally could not turn the wheels while the truck was standing still.
I replaced the supposedly 201oz S614 with a 192oz (ancient) Airtronics, and the torque felt like it doubled.
@CrawlerCanyon are you still running the 192oz?
Good ol slapper! 😂
Btw your channel is amazing , you provided the best review of the losi laserturd I've seen on YT! Would love to be "bored" with your upgrades to see how it improves and if you are able to address the reliability issues.
How do you think the fusion pro 2300 would do in this rig ?
😬 I wouldn't classify the Lasenut as a "Fusion application." There's only a 40A ESC in the Pro, and 2300kv is gonna be a bit slow when limited to 3S.
I would absolutely recommend in it's place something like this: amzn.to/3sAv012 as the G2 version of the 10BL120 is 4S-capable. I run mine on 3S on a non-G2 ESC, and it is such a radical improvement over the RTR Spektrum electronics that it's kind of difficult to express.
@@CrawlerCanyon so bc the hw is sensored what happens at those slow crawling speeds up a few rocks ? It shouldn't cog bc of the sensor but does it have any power to climb ? Was trying to find that mix of speed with crawl ability in a sensored motor , but wasn't thinking the amperage til u mentioned it. I have a u4 type of terrain where the truck can go fast and then hit some mild crawling zones.
@@jerseyscaler445 The Fusion is just too limited here, I think. The 2300 could be serviceable on 4S, but it can't do that. I still think that ~3000kv on 3S, or something much bigger and somewhat lower KV on 4S is the way to go. I have a 1900kv in mine, but it's a loooong 3674 can running off of a 10BL120, so far more torque than a Fusion has to offer.
@@CrawlerCanyon u da man, Mr canyon 🤟
@CrawlerCanyon why the non-g2 version?
Put 2mil in that center diff. And add a few ear plugs lol...edit... 2cmil or 20 mil. Whatever Traxxas uses in Maxx 4s center diff
I bet this would be a beast with stronger (6s suitable) motor, drive shafts and servo.
Many moons ago, when Associated wanted to make a "properly scaled" short course truck, they took the RC8T truggy, put short arms on it, and fitted it with a full cage and truck body-- that's the SC8e. It's built like a tank. They later, for a VERY short time made a buggy version, the Nomad DB8.
Losi had every opportunity to take the 8ight or the 8ight T and do the exact same thing-- which would have made the Lasernut an absolute beast. Losi could have had their very own SC8/DB8. But I guess Horizon would rather leave the "hardcore" stuff to Arrma, and we get a stretched Tenacity Pro. I don't think anything inside the Lasernut would survive 6S. Even the wheel hexes are shallow engagement.
@@CrawlerCanyon I see. ☹ So you don't think a Lazernut can be upgraded in every way necessary to make it durable, really fast and easier to handle!?
Your advice would then be? To buy a Nomad DB8 instead? But even on 4s that wouldn't drive much faster than +-40mph or am i wrong? And i don't like it's design as much as the Lazernut's. Returning to having upgrade thoughts again. 😁 I would prefer 55-60mph.
The SC8 will easily do 40mph on 4S, about the same as the Lasernut will do. If you're looking for a 60mph buggy that can stand up to it, take a look at the Arrma Fireteam, which is still on Cyber Week pricing as of this posting-- $399. So $140 less than a Lasernut, and literally everything about it is beefier. That price is absolutely killer, and if I actually drove my Kraton more than once a financial quarter, I would have considered getting one. I already have enough dust collectors.
@@CrawlerCanyonUnfortunately that special isn't available in the region i'm located in but thanks for the advice. 👍I was considering the Fireteam as well but i'm still not sure which car to chose exactly. 😁☹
Were could i find that motor?
You can still find the Turnigy 4-pole 3674 motors on Hobbyking or eBay, like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/273329192381
Looks different on the can, still the same motor. I think Rocket and Surpass both have similar offerings, probably the same exact cans, just different graphics.
@@CrawlerCanyon thank you ill look into it.
Shame they don’t offer this with more 1/8 scale steering, drive shafts, rod ends. That wasn’t particularly hard abuse so pretty sad to see. Everything points towards sacrificing looks & size and getting a DB Pro…
Absolutely agreed. Were the Lasernut based on the 8ight and not the Tenacity, it would be an absolute beast... and EASILY worth the pricetag.
@@CrawlerCanyon Annoyingly I’m the UK a DB Pro is £500/$650 so big bucks… the Lasernut I can get for about $550. Talk about a predicament- so difficult to decide on lying that for the older and supposed lesser (blatantly isn’t lesser in reality) model that I might not get either 😢
I was super stoked when i saw this release, after watching a few reviews I realized it was terrible. This is one rc model that needs detuned to boredom out of the box to survive. Because its junk.
I see it as bizarro-world cousin to the SC8, which was a truck built out of a stretched RC8 buggy-- the Lasernut is a buggy built out of a stretched Tenacity SCT. I don't expect the level of bombproof that came with the RC8/SC8, but I also don't think that any of the rig's issues aren't correctable. I mean, at least that's how I feel today. Had I spent $120 more on it I might feel differently... but a few months ago I foolishly bought a Wendigo (after watching reviews nothing short of glowing) and that thing is a dumpster fire. Unsalvageable.
Wtf makes a 3674?
The 3674 is a fairly common brushless motor size, along with 3670. They've been around for years.
The steering play is pretty abysmal. Poop if you will......
I mean, it's not Wendigo bad, but it's certainly not great. I think it's somewhat easily fixable-- which is again, unlike the Wendigo. I think it's mostly setup rather than geometry.
They basically took a great car (Tenacity DB Pro), added big tires, longer arms and extra weight to pretend its a U4..... and ruined it. Convert it to a DB Pro and use it on 2S or 3S with the RIGHT pinion, you'll be MUCH happier.
I can't find anything to argue with there. The Tenacity fully got Horizon'd.
@@CrawlerCanyon Yep, Horizon’d 🤙
I don't think anyone has made a proper Baja style of vehicle with the proper chassis that is durable.
Some are using the same buggy/truggy chassis, some have a tubular design with massive flaws, some just have subpar axles that give out when you put too much power down the drive train.
I could have gotten the Losernut real cheap, then read all the issues.
Went for a 2nd hand barely used Dementor instead, then will move the ESC over to the MT2+ in a few weeks. Both seem to be proven RCs, whilst not being Baja heritage, wont be money pits like the Losernut...
Losi, Arrma and Traxxas ask too much and have very little support in my country.
Team Corally and Hobao both supported locally, and that's what matters imo.
@@dankeplace Another problem is people thinking every RC is meant to be a basher. I have 2 Losi DB pros and 1 TT pro. I use them strictly on loose dirt and sand as intended, and don’t launch them to the moon. They all stay on 2S and occasionally 3S. When used as intended they are durable and fun.
I have Arrma stuff that I use for bashing and hooning around.
Could I bash my Losi’s…yes….if I don’t mind spending more time on parts and labor. Out of all my RC’s, I have the most fun with my 3S Arrma vehicles…they are inexpensive, durable, and plenty of bang for the buck. I like my 6S Arrmas, but tend to run my 3S/4S Arrmas more carefree.
@@i4nic256 Team Corally has the best electrics, rebranded Hobbywing, that's the strength of these cars, they have a power train to drive the car within specs.
I have read horror stories of Spektrum and Venilon ESCs burning up, whether user error or not. it tends to be more that these stories exist.
I never read anything bad about the HW gear, only that people upgrade from the aforementioned to HW.
I would never bash my cars, I am not into jumping or ballooning tires.
I am only going to run a 4S battery on a 6S system. I don't need that extra uncontrollable power.
I am more interested in keep all 4 wheels on the ground, but my point would be more that the Losernut shreds axles, from what I have read.
Everything has a weak point, but Losi allowing this to be 1 is just not on, specifically when it happens when using 4S.
I have no bias towards any manufacturer, but I find the same issues with 3 main brands, all 3 seem to have no parts available here in my country.
So all 3 brands I avoid like a plague.
If you cannot replace a part, doesn't matter if the RC has a weak point or not.
You've missed the point. It's for scale rc drivers. Not bashers who send there cars to the moon.
Maybe. I personally have no idea who it's for, as it is a rig that absolutely does not pass the Kondo test. My 15-year-old SC8e is immeasurably more fun to drive, because it can you know... actually do things, like go around corners or actually jump. The Lasernut is a long Tenacity Pro, so it's effectively under-spec'd in every way.
Why would you want to bath with this?
Why would you bath before sending a car to the moon?