Fixed mine today. Got maulfunction message once a month so i decided today to clean it. *Cleaned everything with alcohol *Sanded contacts with 1200 grit paper *Cleaned again with alcohol *Cleaned plastic and greased with new grea *Bent metal to get better contact Everything is back together and works like a charm People that have problem after assembling key not recognized check if you connected board correctly because there is 2 pins on board that need to slide in properly
Thank you so much for doing this! The other half wanted to buy a new module for the daughters 2008 after it threw up multiple problems. I found your video and wondered what could we loose. I grabbed the old nail varnish remover and a bit of 1000 wet n dry to clean off the grotty contacts. An hour and a half and two fingernails later, the car starts and no silly fault notices - so far. Now to give it time. Thank you again.
Great Video!!! There is a lot of extra information I have not seen before. I have a dead 93 Turbo X right now, and my Tech 2 directs me to the ISM. Definitely going to use all of your tips and tricks!!! THANKS! Keep up the great work :)
Hello friend, I have a question, have you ever had a bug in saab 93 2008, stability control failure contact service goes off everything on the counter and you can't start it
Sounds like you could have the dreaded ABS module failure. Try following this video to bypass the ABS with a wire and see if the car starts:- th-cam.com/video/dXbhtJ0l4Lw/w-d-xo.html
I've changed my ISM loads of times in the past couple of years usually it turns all ignition on but fails to crank. Very hit and miss but a complete pain when it doesn't work. I've taken them apart like this video but always very little evidence of what is wrong but maybe the nylon cam that moves the sliding contacts wears down and eventually gets to a position where it doesn't slide far enough to make contact. Time once again to buy another on ebay! Is Saab the most difficult car to steal?
That's an excellent point regarding the nylon cam! Yes, it certainly could be wearing down although from what I recall, the pads on the PCB are quite large and so should allow a lot of wear before it doesn't make contact anymore.
Hopefully Frank won't mind me jumping in on this issue: Next time it won't crank, try this: th-cam.com/users/shortsKhCPffsia00 instead of using jumper wires try waggling the connector. The solution is linked in the description.
@@CycloneCyd Good call. Its a very irritating issue but now whilst driving I am getting freezing of the speedo ABS light and handrake light flashing at the same time and then when the lights go off the speedo starts working again.
Could be worth checking again that the black ring is properly seated internally. that's the only part that "talks" to the key. Could also be worth pulling the Fuse that powers the steering lock and the one that powers the CIM and the ISM. this is a good way to reset those systems without messing with everything (like pulling the battery out etc...)
@@gioiaquinta3294 m y ism has damaged one of quartz module. Give it to the shop to repair. They have to find out it's working frequency and swap it with new one.
Obvious things to check would be to make sure you haven't lost any thing when opening it up. you can use parts of the video for reference. Another thing to check would be to remove Fuse 2 from the Passenger Compartment Fuse box. It should be 5 Amp. According to the manual, it powers the ISM and the CIM so pulling it out would reset both. Pull it out for a minute or 2 to make sure they both completely power down, then re-insert the fuse and try to start the car.
The red Pen looking thing you're using at 15:15, is it a pencil rubber? I mean like the ones you used in school pencil rubbers? 🤔 I'm thinking of having a go at this tomorrow
Don't know if you're still active here or if you remember, but I have a question. I opened it up and it's clear as day this is my issue. The contacts were very worn. I scuffed them up gently to restore some yellowish sheen to the plates and then used some electronics cleaner spray to rub them down. There was a lot of dirt that came off and the previous silvery color was gone. Not perfect but a lot better looking. However it seems that the lock is now permanently in "unlocked" mode. I can start the car no problem, but the steering lock never engages. Not when I remove it and then ofc it doesnt unlock when i put it in again. I was wondering if you're any better with electronics than me and might know what's going on. I assume the "unlock circuit" is in a constantly closed for some reason.
Yeah, I`m still around - just life getting in the way! Even mine goes through weeks of not engaging the steering lock, then for a few weeks it'll start working again, then stop. Personally, I`d always assumed it was the actual lock in the the steering column that was failing.
@@saabfeverfrank Interesting! I'm happy to let you know i fixed my issue. Seems like the lock doesn't like getting signals it doesnt expect, and then freezes. In my case it was expecting a lock signal, but putting the key in would give it another unlock signal. Since it was already unlocked it would freeze and not accept any actual unlock signals at removal of the key. I found a fix on a 11 year old thread that suggest I reset the ISM via removing the fuse nr1 and 2, putting the key in while unpowered, and waiting a couple minutes before reseating the fuses. Did that and immediately took a drive without removing the key. After a 3 minute drive i stopped, and removed the key and boom, it locked. With the key already being in when the ISM booted up made the first signal a "lock" signal, and it didnt freeze. It now functions normally. I suspect my issue wouldnt have started if i made sure the lock was engaged before disconnecting the battery the first time. I might also start removing the key slower, so the power doesn't cut before things can process. Anyways thanks for the video, it was a great help. Putting the centerconsole back in place was especially frustrating, but saved me a couple hundred bucks!
I'm going to clean mine because I had a drained battery. After replacing it I'm getting a steering lock message and my key will not turn. Thanks for the video.
If possible, it might be worth getting the codes read to find out why. It might be the SCL module (Steering Column Lock) itself, or the CIM, or the ISM, although cleaning the ISM is at least an in-expensive thing to try. Is the steering wheel actually locked?
@@saabfeverfrank Same problem , I've just replaced the battery & steering lock malfunction on dash , Key won't turn , The wheel wasn't locked after last drive , Please help Tia
@@debbiedreg6614 Without proper diagnostics from a Tech2 we're really only guessing. Sounds like the CIM is upset about the position of the steering lock perhaps. Might be worth wiggling the steering wheel with the key out and continue to wiggle it while you insert the key. Might also be worth pressing the key down firmly (not too hard though!!!) and try to turn it immediately on insertion. do this a few times. my steering lock is dead (never locks) and on occasion, I`ve had to do this to get it to start again.
@@debbiedreg6614 Just done some research, it might be worth pulling Fuse 2 from the Passenger Compartment Fuse box. It should be 5 Amp. According to the manual, it powers the ISM and the CIM so pulling it out would reset both. Pull it out for a minute or 2 to make sure they both completely power down, then re-insert the fuse and try to start the car. If that doesn't help, then try the same procedure with Fuse 1 (15 Amp) because that's what powers the actual steering lock.
might be worth disconnecting the battery for a little while. Steering lock malfunction can be caused by a number of things. it it's the CIM, then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can help sometimes.
So ive got major oofs rn My lovely saab has the steering wheel malfunction But... I CAN turn the key for some and if I shove the key hard and turn it hard it works and thr car starts but after that the steering wheel malfunction comes back after the check and all my gauges goes black and dies... But the car us in and works like normal exept the steering wheels lock malfunction thingi Also the actual steering wheel lock clicks so it's fine right? You think it's the ISM?... OR ..... the CIM? I've been looking for a guy w a tech2 and nobody has one close by...
Sounds like both to be honest. The "shoving" the key part definitely sounds like the ISM itself. Although, it could be gummed up pretty bad inside and losing contact as your're driving which is upsetting the CIM. The ISM is definately the first place to start though as it's certainly cheaper than a CIM. Perhaps buy a second-hand one off eBay and clean that first then swap them over, if anything goes wrong, you'll still have your original untouched one as a spare.
@@saabfeverfrank hey again I got some news My dad got the car to one of his buds who has a workshop and they got the tech2 out and found a code leading to the CIM module... so thsts fun😅😂
@@saabfeverfrank update lol cim was swaped. problem got back took some initiation and got a "new" ISM. and now works fine from the looks of it. took apart the old ISM and found the exposed copper was coverd in somthing black. and one of the seperaterd contacts was basicly one thx to the dirt and in the middle of the dirt was a shiny thin path from the prongs. my guess is that THAT was the problem. thx for your help in my troubles
I have a Saab 9-3 03 vector sid is saying key not accepted, have transponder codes key turns but no crank tried to jus a jumper the car cranks but no start gets spark for a few seconds and it stops getting sparks?
getting spark briefly then not could be the immobiliser. Which would also makes sense along with the "key not accepted" message. I think you need to deal with that first. Might be worth cleaning the ISM, if that doesn't help, perhaps then replacing it as the electronics can die. If that still doesn't get rid of the message, you may need to look at a replacement CIM (which will need a Tech2 to program)
Fixed mine today. Got maulfunction message once a month so i decided today to clean it.
*Cleaned everything with alcohol
*Sanded contacts with 1200 grit paper
*Cleaned again with alcohol
*Cleaned plastic and greased with new grea
*Bent metal to get better contact
Everything is back together and works like a charm
People that have problem after assembling key not recognized check if you connected board correctly because there is 2 pins on board that need to slide in properly
Thank you so much for doing this! The other half wanted to buy a new module for the daughters 2008 after it threw up multiple problems. I found your video and wondered what could we loose. I grabbed the old nail varnish remover and a bit of 1000 wet n dry to clean off the grotty contacts. An hour and a half and two fingernails later, the car starts and no silly fault notices - so far. Now to give it time. Thank you again.
Glad it helped mate!
Use 8x wooden coffee stirrers to push down and allow it to open easier
Cool idea, I might give it a go next time I need to do one of these.
thank you for your video! it was very helpful, and no "steering wheel malfunction".. :)
Glad I could help!
Great Video!!! There is a lot of extra information I have not seen before. I have a dead 93 Turbo X right now, and my Tech 2 directs me to the ISM. Definitely going to use all of your tips and tricks!!! THANKS!
Keep up the great work :)
Glad I could be of service!
Hello friend, I have a question, have you ever had a bug in saab 93 2008, stability control failure contact service goes off everything on the counter and you can't start it
Sounds like you could have the dreaded ABS module failure. Try following this video to bypass the ABS with a wire and see if the car starts:- th-cam.com/video/dXbhtJ0l4Lw/w-d-xo.html
I've changed my ISM loads of times in the past couple of years usually it turns all ignition on but fails to crank. Very hit and miss but a complete pain when it doesn't work. I've taken them apart like this video but always very little evidence of what is wrong but maybe the nylon cam that moves the sliding contacts wears down and eventually gets to a position where it doesn't slide far enough to make contact. Time once again to buy another on ebay! Is Saab the most difficult car to steal?
That's an excellent point regarding the nylon cam! Yes, it certainly could be wearing down although from what I recall, the pads on the PCB are quite large and so should allow a lot of wear before it doesn't make contact anymore.
Hopefully Frank won't mind me jumping in on this issue: Next time it won't crank, try this: th-cam.com/users/shortsKhCPffsia00 instead of using jumper wires try waggling the connector. The solution is linked in the description.
@@CycloneCyd How very dare you Cyd! Nah, only joking - no problem at all. Frank.
@@CycloneCyd Good call. Its a very irritating issue but now whilst driving I am getting freezing of the speedo ABS light and handrake light flashing at the same time and then when the lights go off the speedo starts working again.
@@davejohnston5158 ABS/ESP module, replace module. Done 10+.
Hi. Did the same after steering lock malfunction. And after cleaning have both: steering lock and key not accepted. What could go wrong?
Could be worth checking again that the black ring is properly seated internally. that's the only part that "talks" to the key. Could also be worth pulling the Fuse that powers the steering lock and the one that powers the CIM and the ISM. this is a good way to reset those systems without messing with everything (like pulling the battery out etc...)
Hi I'm having the same problem, did you manage to resolve this .not sure if I should replace with used one from ebay...
@@gioiaquinta3294 If any of you are in the UK and are willing to send the ISM to me, I`ll happily take a look at it for you.
@@gioiaquinta3294 m y ism has damaged one of quartz module. Give it to the shop to repair. They have to find out it's working frequency and swap it with new one.
Hey! I cleaned my ism but now the key is not accepted any idea?
Obvious things to check would be to make sure you haven't lost any thing when opening it up. you can use parts of the video for reference. Another thing to check would be to remove Fuse 2 from the Passenger Compartment Fuse box. It should be 5 Amp. According to the manual, it powers the ISM and the CIM so pulling it out would reset both. Pull it out for a minute or 2 to make sure they both completely power down, then re-insert the fuse and try to start the car.
The red Pen looking thing you're using at 15:15, is it a pencil rubber? I mean like the ones you used in school pencil rubbers? 🤔 I'm thinking of having a go at this tomorrow
No, it's a fibreglass pencil. There is an ebay link in the description.
@@saabfeverfrank okay, thank ya for ya help.
@@JohnnyCage4Real no problem, let us know how you get on with it.
@@saabfeverfrank it didn't work for me but I'm suspecting the CIM is not working properly. Or something else
Can you clean without opening? just spray somewhere till in gets inside
I very much doubt it, no.
Milyen szerencsétlen tervezés ! Nem lehetne négy csavarral rögzíteni a talpat ?Feszegetni csavarhúzokkal?!
Don't know if you're still active here or if you remember, but I have a question. I opened it up and it's clear as day this is my issue. The contacts were very worn. I scuffed them up gently to restore some yellowish sheen to the plates and then used some electronics cleaner spray to rub them down. There was a lot of dirt that came off and the previous silvery color was gone. Not perfect but a lot better looking.
However it seems that the lock is now permanently in "unlocked" mode. I can start the car no problem, but the steering lock never engages. Not when I remove it and then ofc it doesnt unlock when i put it in again.
I was wondering if you're any better with electronics than me and might know what's going on. I assume the "unlock circuit" is in a constantly closed for some reason.
Yeah, I`m still around - just life getting in the way! Even mine goes through weeks of not engaging the steering lock, then for a few weeks it'll start working again, then stop. Personally, I`d always assumed it was the actual lock in the the steering column that was failing.
@@saabfeverfrank Interesting! I'm happy to let you know i fixed my issue. Seems like the lock doesn't like getting signals it doesnt expect, and then freezes. In my case it was expecting a lock signal, but putting the key in would give it another unlock signal. Since it was already unlocked it would freeze and not accept any actual unlock signals at removal of the key.
I found a fix on a 11 year old thread that suggest I reset the ISM via removing the fuse nr1 and 2, putting the key in while unpowered, and waiting a couple minutes before reseating the fuses. Did that and immediately took a drive without removing the key. After a 3 minute drive i stopped, and removed the key and boom, it locked. With the key already being in when the ISM booted up made the first signal a "lock" signal, and it didnt freeze. It now functions normally.
I suspect my issue wouldnt have started if i made sure the lock was engaged before disconnecting the battery the first time. I might also start removing the key slower, so the power doesn't cut before things can process.
Anyways thanks for the video, it was a great help. Putting the centerconsole back in place was especially frustrating, but saved me a couple hundred bucks!
@@luuhax well done mate!
A pencil eraser is excellent for cleaning contacts
Good tip although I think the fibre pens I used are probably a little harsher.
Great 👍
I'm going to clean mine because I had a drained battery. After replacing it I'm getting a steering lock message and my key will not turn. Thanks for the video.
If possible, it might be worth getting the codes read to find out why. It might be the SCL module (Steering Column Lock) itself, or the CIM, or the ISM, although cleaning the ISM is at least an in-expensive thing to try. Is the steering wheel actually locked?
@@saabfeverfrank Same problem , I've just replaced the battery & steering lock malfunction on dash , Key won't turn , The wheel wasn't locked after last drive , Please help
Tia
@@debbiedreg6614 Without proper diagnostics from a Tech2 we're really only guessing. Sounds like the CIM is upset about the position of the steering lock perhaps. Might be worth wiggling the steering wheel with the key out and continue to wiggle it while you insert the key. Might also be worth pressing the key down firmly (not too hard though!!!) and try to turn it immediately on insertion. do this a few times. my steering lock is dead (never locks) and on occasion, I`ve had to do this to get it to start again.
@@debbiedreg6614 Just done some research, it might be worth pulling Fuse 2 from the Passenger Compartment Fuse box. It should be 5 Amp. According to the manual, it powers the ISM and the CIM so pulling it out would reset both. Pull it out for a minute or 2 to make sure they both completely power down, then re-insert the fuse and try to start the car. If that doesn't help, then try the same procedure with Fuse 1 (15 Amp) because that's what powers the actual steering lock.
I got a Saab and don't won't to start says steering wheel malfunction
might be worth disconnecting the battery for a little while. Steering lock malfunction can be caused by a number of things. it it's the CIM, then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can help sometimes.
The penn u use to rubber the coppar where can I find it?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122420587078
So ive got major oofs rn
My lovely saab has the steering wheel malfunction
But... I CAN turn the key for some and if I shove the key hard and turn it hard it works and thr car starts but after that the steering wheel malfunction comes back after the check and all my gauges goes black and dies...
But the car us in and works like normal exept the steering wheels lock malfunction thingi
Also the actual steering wheel lock clicks so it's fine right?
You think it's the ISM?... OR ..... the CIM?
I've been looking for a guy w a tech2 and nobody has one close by...
Sounds like both to be honest. The "shoving" the key part definitely sounds like the ISM itself. Although, it could be gummed up pretty bad inside and losing contact as your're driving which is upsetting the CIM. The ISM is definately the first place to start though as it's certainly cheaper than a CIM. Perhaps buy a second-hand one off eBay and clean that first then swap them over, if anything goes wrong, you'll still have your original untouched one as a spare.
@@saabfeverfrank thx a lot ill prob do that seems best way to do it.
ill update you when i have more info
@@saabfeverfrank hey again I got some news
My dad got the car to one of his buds who has a workshop and they got the tech2 out and found a code leading to the CIM module... so thsts fun😅😂
@@eliasstarborg4381 oh dear...
@@saabfeverfrank update lol
cim was swaped. problem got back
took some initiation and got a "new" ISM. and now works fine from the looks of it.
took apart the old ISM and found the exposed copper was coverd in somthing black. and one of the seperaterd contacts was basicly one thx to the dirt and in the middle of the dirt was a shiny thin path from the prongs. my guess is that THAT was the problem.
thx for your help in my troubles
I have a Saab 9-3 03 vector sid is saying key not accepted, have transponder codes key turns but no crank tried to jus a jumper the car cranks but no start gets spark for a few seconds and it stops getting sparks?
getting spark briefly then not could be the immobiliser. Which would also makes sense along with the "key not accepted" message. I think you need to deal with that first. Might be worth cleaning the ISM, if that doesn't help, perhaps then replacing it as the electronics can die. If that still doesn't get rid of the message, you may need to look at a replacement CIM (which will need a Tech2 to program)
@@saabfeverfrank Thanks for your help ill try it tomorrow :)