Grind vise part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2024
- Putting the DoAll 14 inch to work on Kurt Vises.. Part 2 will be out on Sunday April 28, 2024
I learned everything I Know by watching this guy work :) • Surface Grinder Basics... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Steve, to get the wheel off the grinder you're going to need two pairs of Pin Spanners, one pair for the outer holes to hold the wheel in place, and another pair for the inner holes/nut.
Technically speaking if you could hold the wheel still with your hand you could get away with only needing one Pin Spanner for the inner holes/nut, but using 2 pairs would make things easier.
As far as the 4 cap head screws you were talking about go, their only purpose is to clamp the two halves of the hub together around the grinding wheel. 👍👍
Edited for spelling
I have an old DoAll and I had to make a spanner the right side and made it fit to a socket so I could use an impact. I could not budge the thing. Also, it is all left hand thread.
Take smaller bites, I know it goes back and forth like a planer but it isn't a planer. That middle knob on down wheel is a fine adjust. They work great. Wish the old Okamoto at work had one.
Been my experience that cast iron grinds easy, garden variety white aluminum oxide wheel works great.
Probably should have dressed wheel again after that first too heavy a cut. Dress and redress sometimes is the norm when grinding.
The 4 bolts should get the wheel off, center nut and puller will remove adapter, should be threaded, should see threads when center nut removed.
Good luck. Remember center knob is fine adjust, easier to sneak up.
Steve, I have to say, just love the shirt, you had on at the start of the video.👍👍
Thanks 👍
the middle knob on the wheel down feed is a fine feed. I would have re dressed the wheel for a finish cut.
Great video Steve. That DoAll was sure dancing on the floor. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
Next time you grind cast iron, use a silicon carbide (green) wheel. I've had good success with those.
Regards,
Duck
Thanks for the tip!
Steve,
The inner small center is a hub nut that keeps the wheel flange hub onto the spindle, it is a left hand thread ( take off/loosen in opposite direction of rotation of the wheel ),
Once that is off/unthreaded from the spindle, usually a threaded hub puller is threaded back into that vacated thread and the inner screw of the hub puller is turned which exerts force and pulls the flange/hub free of the spindle.
( the flange/hub is the female taper, where the spindle is the male taper, it is also called a wheel adapter. the inner nut secures the female taper onto the spindle taper and locks it there)
With the wheel and hub now free of the machine, the 4 recessed bolts act as a 4 point clamp, clamping opposite faces of the hub onto the wheel.
Hope this helps.
Suggestion: Look at SOPKO wheel adapters for their catalog of parts
Don ( not YOUR Don....lol)
lol thanks
Sorry to be nit picking, but from the operators position the wheel rotates in a clockwise direction, if the hub nut rotates anticlockwise to loosen, it has to be a right hand thread?
@@Bobs-Wrigles5555 typo sorry it is a left hand thread, tighten to left loosen to rt...duhhhh not enuf coffee this am...
@@donteeple6124 Thanks for the clarification, we wouldn't want Steve busting a gut trying to turn it the wrong way😉😁
My father taught me (for a right hand thread) -"righty tighty, lefty loosey, unless you're on the wrong side of a Leyland truck" 👍
Best wheel advice I have been given is use a 46 grit for pretty much everything. I use the same alox j bond for steel & cast iron. Can’t recommend the Practical Machinist Abrasive machining forum enough for sound advice.
Thanks for sharing
The wheel your using lookes to be a fairly hard and course general purpose good for rough clean up on steel. The wheel for cast iron are silicon carbide ( green or black) or diamond ( which are expensive) something in the 180 to 240 grit range will make good finish . For finish dress fine slow cross feed .0005 depth of diamond then only .0002 depth of cut on part per pass with spark out will make a true surface. Good luck
Looks like you may be taking too big a bite. Even with a mister, a heavy bite will be putting enough heat into your work to cause it to swell. Low travel speed will also do the same to the work.
The heaviest bite was .005 I watch a lot of the Suburban Tool Videos with Don... He said if you need to remove metal take it off :) I've got to find that video again...
Great to see it in action 👍.. although your attempt to use a soft stop for the table at 37:40 did widen my eye's a little!
Sorry about that
Now.that you've got them the same height, they should be turned over on the surface plate and checked with an indicator for rock and flatness of the bottoms. If there is rock; shim and dust the bottoms then flip and dust the tops again.
The owner did not want the bottoms done, I asked and want to do it but..... There is a lot more interaction with the owner in part 2 this sunday.,..
If the bottoms aren't flat, there is probably some amount of twist/ bow in the ground surface.
Speaking of Vintage Machinery, you should go there and grab the manual for your grinder. It has all the control info and wheel mounting instructions. I put a link, but it errored out.
You keep putting the selector into wheel dressing mode where the speed is set by the other knob, and it looks like it's cranked to the max.
I'm guessing part two will be grinding the bottoms?
Will you be checking this on a granite plate in part two, or will that be part three?
Plus one on too big a bite for a grinder, especially without flood.
I have all the manuals... thing that was throwing me was the middle line on the right lever was worn off and I forgot it was there :)
Oh and Steve if your grinder is model D 1030-14 as i suspect it is....the proper wheel for it is a 14x1x3....
SERIAL ....................... XXXXXXXXXX
MODEL ........................ D 1030-14
TABLE DIMENTIONS ............. 30" X 10" X 3"
LONGITUDINAL TABLE TRAVEL .... 32"
CROSS TABLE TRAVEL ........... 12"
MAXIMUM UNDER WHEEL .......... 10-1/2"
GRINDING WHEEL DIAMETER ...... 14" X 1" X 3"
CHUCK MAGNALOCK FINE LINE .... 10" X 30" X 3"
MAGNETIC CHUCK CONTROL ....... VARIABLE
AUTOMATIC LUBE ............... BIJUR
LONGITUDIAL TABLE SPEEDS ..... 5 TO 50 FPM
AUTO TRANSVERSE FEEDS ........ .005 TO .1875 IPM
VERTICAL HAND WHEEL ADJ ...... .0001"
POWER ELEVATION .............. YES
COOLANT ...................... YES
OVERHEAD WHEEL DRESSER ....... YES
SPINDLE MOTOR ................ 5 HORSEPOWER
HYDRAULIC MOTOR .............. 1-1/2 HORSEPOWER
good job steve
Cool machine
Might contact Steve Summers. He has a grinder about like yours. Anyways great video and thanks for sharing.
Cool, thanks
I have a DoAll D-8, I have to let the table run for over an hour before it gets up to temp and stabilizes. Until then it keeps floating the table higher as more oil gets to the ways.
I never gave that a thought but I will take that into account in the future! Im thinking all of the machines that glide on flat oiled ways like my Boyers should be the same. Do you recommend a particular way oil on those machines?
That's a lot of warm up! I let this one run for only about 10 minutes. Thanks for the tip!
@@10swatkins
There may well be something not right with the grinder. Manual says 30 minutes, also says there is an optional heater you could put in the hydraulic oil tank to keep it at 110F when not in use to shorten up the warm up time.
@@ClanChapman
I believe it is just an iso32 hydraulic oil.
Nice to see it in action. A far cry from the old manual machines we had in the old days. We used to use those pink wheels for everything back then. You did a pretty good job of operating it. Could the stepover be adjusted, and does it have auto down feed?
The step over is controlled by the long knob in the center of the levers... I was playing with it trying to get the largest step over in the video... It's far smaller than I would have though.... It does have auto down feed also...
Why not grind the bothem of the vise to come even? Insted of a super grind surface.
Owner did not want me to.... More in part 2... Sunday
I don't get it, Steve saw the knee going up while I saw the column go down. Ron W4BIN
thanks for reminding me abut the center knob.... !
Less is More...Light Cuts are Best...
You should really grind the bottoms first to get them even and then you won't have to take so much off the tops to make them the exact same.
Just doing what the owner wanted :) More in part 2 Sunday..
Thanks for another educational video. For best results on cast iron use an open structure wheel, a full flow of coolant and much faster reciprocal speed than you’re using. Radiac makes an open structure wheel with grains that completely fracture and break off during dressing leaving the wheel surface very sharp.
We stoned the Bottoms. They were not too bad. I bought these at an auction many years ago. They had had a hard life.
My main goal was to get them the same height so we could gang them on our high school robotics mill. Also, the fixed and movable jaw holders had been hammered to death. In then end I just want to make them better. We are not making NASA parts. If we hit 5 thou tolerance, we are doing well. The robots the students build don't require high tolerances at all.
There are some parts, like the wheel mechanisms, that have tighter tolerances, but we buy those instead of build them. The kids only have 6 weeks to design and build their robot.
Ja damit kannst du recht haben, Also warten wir bis er das nächste Teil in Bearbeitung hat??
I have all the tools.... The thing I was trying to do was split the hub so I could make sure it was not a 5 inch hole for the wheel .. The 4 bolts removed does not let me take off the outer flange of the hub, it will not turn or even move with soft blows from a dead blow... It's like the outer flange is not clamping the wheel.... Thanks for the suggestions!
I like your duct tape shirt! Where can one get it?
Ordered it online... took about two weeks...
If TH-cam allows, can you give a hint where? That will make a great camping shirt
You need a pin spanner and it’s a left hand thread
I have 4 :) Spanners did not bulge the flange after taking out the 4 screws...
I think I would have just ground the bottoms.
The owner did not want to do that.... JUst do what I'm told :)
Super wie du mit der Maschine umgehst, nur du vergisst da wichtigste bei der Verarbeitung mit der Maschine, du solltest auch Wasser dazu verwenden, da sonst alles zu warm wird und schneller der Gebrauch der Schleife schneller abgenutzt wird, also bitte verwende viel Flüssigkeit?
Das Schleifrad berührt das Material nur einen Sekundenbruchteil während es sich bewegt
Dann werden auch nur ein paar Hunderstel ? abgetragen
Es sind große Metallteile .. Hitze ist denke ich nicht das Problem zumal er einen "Nebler" benutzt
Wasser ? .. ehr Kühlmittel oder Öl .. ja nach dem was man bearbeitet
Und ich denke auch wenn er kein "Spezialist" ist an dieser Maschine er weiss immer noch mehr als die meisten hier !
I was using the mist and coolant, that's why I kept telling Andy to turn on or up the air :) I watch a lot of Suburban Tool's Don on how to grind things... He says they only use the misters and no flood cooling in their shop.... So I bought one :)
Way too much depth of cut using mist coolant. I don't like mist on a grinder anyway, flood cool it, messy but get better results. Much lighter cut say 0.001 and run faster traverse and step over. Doing what you are destroys the wheel dress so you get poor finish and bad flatness
Just taking the advice of Don at Suburban tools... Seems like a good source of info... th-cam.com/video/7FwL55ErfDI/w-d-xo.html