This is absolutely one of the best videos of product service I've ever seen. So detailed and the additional information about a part really clears up any confusion for a do-it-yourselfer.
The fact that you actually explained what the part is, what it does, where it's located, how it works, why it doesn't work PLUS you actually explain the overall functionality of the system AND your video was stable and didn't shake and focused well. PLUS, you showed us close-up stuff too and what it should look like, what it shouldn't look like, with ALL the details. I LIKE DETAILS! Matter of fact, it's okay to show us how you take the part off by just unscrewing it or however. Because most of the time it's not as simple as it looks and by actually showing us how YOU do it and not fast-forwarding that part, it makes me more confident in my work when I see someone else ( that's more experienced) having the same exact trouble as I did trying to get those darn screws out. If such the case. But you know what I mean! So thank you very much for this video and I can't wait to see more of your work. Plus the fact that you seem very knowledgeable too helps.
I’m constantly looking at TH-cam videos on maintenance and building. As a tradesman it’s not often you get someone who not only knows his stuff, is thorough, sincere and is able to clearly articulate his experiential wisdom! Even happier that the heater on my (recently purchased second hand) RV is the same model and unfortunately in similar state of disrepair. Thanks.
This is what I went thru when purchasing our 2000 Monaco Windsor back in 2015. The water just wouldn't get hot, so I replaced the DC tstat, the anode and heating element, the blow off valve, flushed the tank (only white stuff came out...and lots of it!) and all of the LP piping/flue items. WOW! He's right....talk about a massive difference! And, it was very rewarding to be able to do it yourself, especially for those of us who are mechanically challenged. It just takes some time and patience. 👍
Currently have my water heater out to replace the water connections, and looking at all this as I have it out. So much detail and what a great video! I also learned some good info at store about PEX connections. But after watching a video that didn't show detail like this, I was about to spend more money than necessary. Thankfully another shopper showed me a better solution, and less expensive. The PEX crimper is very expensive tool for a 1 time use. Hopefully I will have your water tomorrow for Thanksgiving day! Thank you again. Anxious to watch your other videos!
For all those different Plumbing connections, here's a video we put out demonstrating some options you may find useful. th-cam.com/video/fUkEDqlwCao/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Llf298JMOO0g1hBD
You’re teaching videos are excellent. We are retired and are about four months into owning our first RV. We are learning a tremendous amount from you. Mel & Linda
Amazing how a leaky pop off valve, caused so much, but like you say, a neglected water heater. Just going through this on my recent purchase of a travel trailer, which during the back flush a lot of calcium material came out, and because the anode rod was almost at the wire, I'll have to check more things. Thanks for the video. Learned more.
I am finding these videos to be incredibly helpful. After watching them, I feel like I can successfully tackle whatever repair it was that you highlighted. Thanks! Subbed
Again EXCELLENT video and evident if you let a small leak continue it eventually $$COST$$ a lot more in the long run. A $13.00 pressure relief valve failure and customer EXTENDED neglect resulted in a +$300 repair. Darren Thank You !
I would refuse to repair this one, 10 min. inspection is enough to see multiple issues that need R&R. Not very cost effective to fix, Darren says several times that it needs to be replaced, but often people without sufficient resources ($) live in older RV's. They cannot afford to replace the old damaged unit. That's when it's challenging to be a field repair tech. Do you take money from customers without putting yourself in their tight spot. Some tech's do when the shop manager wants $250,000 this month from his 6 tech's. You know who you are. My experience is mobile tech's rarely do that. Thank Darren for being one of the good guys and showing you this challenging profession in a positive light. It's hard, but satisfying work. Viva Terlingua!
What you call the pop off valve I call a pressure relief valve. Either way, I've heard that you shouldn't flip the lever as you might not be able to seal it again. My position has always been that if it doesn't seal after you've flipped the lever then the valve needs to be replaced. If the valve isn't working properly then you can blow up your whole (cold water heater- I love that) water heater tank from being over pressurized. Very good video. Thanks for all your explanations.
Outstanding video. I’m new to my RV (2019 Rockwood 2104s). Your service video takes a lot of the mystery out of my water heater system. I understand what I am seeing back there now, how they operate & work together as well as the specs needed. Please know that your channel is helping people. Thanks 👍🏻🇺🇸
What a great and informative video. You are doing a great public service. I'm fairly handy, but you don't know what you don't know, and often you just need someone with knowledge to walk you through this stuff
great job! I've been through mine and you hit _all_ of the spots so very thoroughly. One thing you missed and is not a problem on good/proper water heater installations is the seal at the bottom between the inner metal backing plate of the water heater and the outer door flange. My trailer had no sealant at all between those so water from rain or drips from that OP valve would run down to the bottom, behind the door flange and into the trailer. it seeped to the front of the trailer in the forward corner and It was there for so long it rotted wood at the front lower section of the trailer. I found this and fixed it but later found the corner molding/siding screws rusted and loosened. I had to remove the front lower siding panel and replace a bunch of wood. It was never seen by the original owner and I only saw it as I started maintaining the trailer and got to the water heater.
Dealing with the exact same issue now. My floor is rotted from corner of sink over to leather recliner and under sink feels very thin. Water heater had crack on exterior seem needing welded. Going to try minwax wood hardner to soak the rotting wood and reharden after seeing good results on other videos, than patch up n seal
iv been watching your videos this week and was amble to fix my water heater and my converter.i did as you said and tightened all the lugs on the neutral bar and ground bar and breakers. I was surprised on how loose some of the lugs were. I found a short under the trailer by the battery where the battery wire connects to the rv wiring. you are so helpful on explaining how stuff works and how to repair it. THANKYOU SO MUCH
I too have watched several of these. This is THE BEST video of this. THANK YOU! Great camera work. Great explanation. Covered everything perfectly in detail.
Very helpful video, thanks. Some suggestions for your viewers, to improve their safety: 1. If you're depending upon the position of a remote switch to de-energize a high voltage circuit that you're going to work on, then the switch should be either Locked Out, i.e. physically locked to prevent someone from accessing it, or Tagged Out, i.e. affixing an unavoidable sign on the switch indicating it must be left as is. (If no one else is around, then this step is often omitted, but at your own peril.) 2. Always, always test that a circuit is indeed de-energized before touching it. Early in my career I lost a colleague to a faulty circuit breaker that had failed closed, in the open position. This is so important that, if I'm using an NCVT (non-contact voltage tester, which to my way of thinking are not totally reliable) I first test the NCVT on a known live circuit before I will trust my life on what otherwise could result from a false negative indication.
You'll note on that pop-off-valve it's threaded to accept a drain pipe. You can't cap/plug this or reduced the pipe diameter! but you can install a drain pipe to direct any drain water away from the water heater components. You might want to install a short pipe directing drain water out of the water heater area through the exterior cover. That would eliminate all the damage caused by water draining directly onto these components in the future. IMPORTANT: Match the pipe size of this outlet to the new drain pipe. If it's a 3/4" thread connection, the drain pipe must be 3/4" diameter for its entire length - NO REDUCTION ALLOWED. NO CAP OR PLUG ALLOWED on the end of this new drain. Leave the drain pipe wide open to allow water to discharge as needed.
Great video! I'm a newbie RVer, so I appreciate your videos! Plumbers I've worked with will use a couple wraps of teflon tape and then use some teflon paste. I've started doing that and it seems to work very well. Also, you can check your source voltage at the panel and compare that to the voltage across the heating element. Voltages should be the same. If not, then you can check backwards to see where you are losing voltage; old wiring, thermostat, switches, connectors, breakers, etc.
Darren, glad I caught this video as my wife and I are planning a trip to the Olympic peninsula and the gas part of my "cold" water heater isn't working. If we don't get it fixed before we leave we will call you when we get close. Great teaching video.
Thanks to your video and of course your expertise I was able to by the grace of God fix my hot water heater. We didn't have hot water since we bought it several months ago
Perfect storm fro the owner equals the perfect lesson, top to bottom. Your are no slouuch of a teacher to..Thanks!!! This was even my exact heater on the new first ever 14 OY Trailer we just got. I fell like I hit the YT lottery. Heck yeah I liked, subscribed and set for notifications.
The high limit thermostat 180f or so, is there to kill the power, or propane before it gets to 200f, & opens the pop off valve. If both fail....BOOM! injury or death at the worst. Severe vehicle /home damage at best. That's why it's resettable. So you can fix the problem. Most likely the low limit thermostat has failed. At 140f, the water can cause 3rd degree burns in 6 seconds. At 130f, in 30 seconds, according to the warning on my tank less water heater. I've watched many of your videos. They're very good, & helpful. I live at the Mt. Baker RV Park in Glacier, Washington. Many people have water heater problems here, & there's a variety of different makes & models. I'm not sure why one is resettable, when the replacement kits include both. Maybe you can but just the low limit thermostat. It's good to keep the pop off valve from sticking, by manually opening it, & replace it like you did if at all questionable. Nice work. Thanks again for all the great videos.
Great video. If I followed correctly - the anode rod is installed in what is also the drain hole - and can be removed when draining the tank for winterization.
Great video. Just a tip-- coat all your terminals with something like liquid electrical tape or battery terminal spray. Really helps extend the time on terminal connections maintaining good continuity in an environment exposed to moisture.
WOW, this was a "Master Class" lesson and I learned a lot. Thank you for your knowledge and the time you took to show me all of the different systems in there. I just ordered a new anode rod and flush wand to service my water heater on my 2 year old trailer and this will help me. I also want to let you know that I did like and subscribe. I will be looking at your other videos for more "Master Class" level learning... Have a Blessed Day !!
Hey Darrin..... I cannot tell you how impressed I was with this video... You have saved me a handful of money... I can at least return the favor By purchasing my parts from you... Thank you for doing this video and the others that I look forward to seeing....
I always turn pump off and open hot water tap to prevent pressure on the tank and that valve, close taps and turn pump on when im going to have a shower or do dishes. Some tanks dont have anoids or room to put one in. good idea for backflush! No one does for their home tanks for sure!
Uh...Bob, it (T-stat) tells the heater that the water is too cool or cold...time to heat the cold water again and to turn off the HEATer when the water is hot. Now if it were heating hot water, then either the thermostat is not working..or maybe you're actually working on a boiler unit. I get it... The water feels hot.. so hence "hot water heater" but it's function is to heat cold water. It's the little things huh? GREAT VIDEO!!
I am glad I found you. I am planning on purchasing a used RV. I may need to go to your website to to make sure I do maintenance work. Appreciate your insight and vlog.
Hi Mary, I am glad you found us too! I will keep making these service video's and you keep watching - in no time your 'new' RV will be in great shape! Good luck on your pending purchase and Happy Camping! Cheers, Darren Koepp
Mary you might want to consider having your RV inspected by a Certified NRVIA inspector. I purchased a used MH about 5 years ago but paid to have it inspected. My report is 32 pages long. It gives you peace of mine.
Great PM tips. I learned a lot by watching the instructions. I would have liked to seen how you checked the gas flow on the gas tube side. Nice job and look forward to watching more of your instructions.
Fantastic video with just the right content and explanation. Just like a heater at the house, maintenance is key. Job well done! Makes perfect sense to place the pop-off valve right over all the other components, just to make sure it all gets destroyed over a $20 dollar leaky part...lazy engineering. I would definitely add a hose to that and let it go all the way down
Dont blame the engineer. Blame the bean counters. You can only engineer so much with whatever budget. When the design money stops and the production money starts forward you go no matter any incomplete engineering.
Great video and thanks for being so thorough and making it simple. One question. In the burner tube/tunnel I have water at times that accumulates inside that tube and then drips out and down the side of my RV. It this another problem I should be addressing?
Typically that might be an indication that the pressure temperature relief valve, up above with the lever on it, is leaking. It's around a $26 part. So you may want to actively back flush your water heater, to get all the sediment out of the tank, and put on a new pop off valve.
Excellent tutorial. Just picked up a 2006 Keystone rv with a Suburban SW6DE Direct Vent Gas water heater. I will be using your video as a guide to do a checkup. Q: where do you refill water in the tank? I think the video skipped that. And the switch is only if you want to use electric to heat the water, not gas? Thanks. Hugh
My practice is - When I am going to park my motorhome for a spell, I pull the anode rod & drain the tank. I let it sit like that until I prepare for my next trip. I then re install or replace the anode & go camping! !
Very informative. Appreciated an overview of the components in a no nonsense manner. Also explained the functions of the components. Favorite part? Telling the service interval frequency! Could've included that on my walk around after purchasing my RV. Great job.
This was a great vid. I’ve always wondered if it ok to run the gas burner and electric element at the same time in order to both heat water faster and also possibly extend shower time. Thanks!!!
It's a cold water heater initially, and when it is running non-stop it is a hot water heater! lol Also, you are amazing...even though Steve Kiemele has a Dometic. lol
These people that say "it drives me crazy when people call it a hot water heater " drive me crazy, because they can't grasp the concept of a thermostat.
Wow! Great video on everything you did, how you did it and what to expect along the way fo doing it! Really appreciate you taking the time to make the video and talk an owner through the process along the way! Keep up the great work!
Excellent instructional video. I will be checking my rv water heater next week. Where can I find your resource sheets? I would like to print them out and keep with my rv to remind me what I need to do each season. Wonderful job! Please keep on doing your excellent work!
Got them. Thank you so much for your excellent videos; best I had seen. Do you have one for a propane tank - I have a 2016 Winnebago view 24V ib a spinner chassis. Also, relevant to this video, do all water heaters have an anode rod?
Awesome video, thanks to you I'm learning things any rver should learn to help themselves troubleshoot with more confidence and tackle much needed maintenance...God bless...
Another great video ! Very informative and probably the best tech in my opinion - your a great teacher/ trainer ! Do you ever do repairs on the RV leveling jack system ?
I was able to fix my furnace by watching your videos, now my next project is the water heater, doing maintenance on it, thank you very much I live in my 06 wildcat 5th wheel
Not really. No more than putting a pan in an oven and expecting that heat transfer mastic to be more effective in heating your pizza. That whole thermostat is touching the metal. It could be argued that the transfer mastic will help transfer heat but when you're dealing with the water heater you're only going to get maybe an extra degree or two of resolution out of it.
The inside of the pressure relief valve is threaded. Why not add a drainage hose or tube to direct the water away from the items you discussed and repaired?
You and I are the only ones that I know of that use the term Water Heater instead of Hot water heater. Hot water tank is also acceptable . Great Job. How often do you get people offering to work for you for free.
This is absolutely one of the best videos of product service I've ever seen. So detailed and the additional information about a part really clears up any confusion for a do-it-yourselfer.
Right!!!❤
The fact that you actually explained what the part is, what it does, where it's located, how it works, why it doesn't work PLUS you actually explain the overall functionality of the system AND your video was stable and didn't shake and focused well. PLUS, you showed us close-up stuff too and what it should look like, what it shouldn't look like, with ALL the details. I LIKE DETAILS! Matter of fact, it's okay to show us how you take the part off by just unscrewing it or however. Because most of the time it's not as simple as it looks and by actually showing us how YOU do it and not fast-forwarding that part, it makes me more confident in my work when I see someone else ( that's more experienced) having the same exact trouble as I did trying to get those darn screws out. If such the case. But you know what I mean! So thank you very much for this video and I can't wait to see more of your work. Plus the fact that you seem very knowledgeable too helps.
WOW..you should get a medal for getting that mess fixed and cleaned up ..another fine job/video !
I’m constantly looking at TH-cam videos on maintenance and building. As a tradesman it’s not often you get someone who not only knows his stuff, is thorough, sincere and is able to clearly articulate his experiential wisdom! Even happier that the heater on my (recently purchased second hand) RV is the same model and unfortunately in similar state of disrepair. Thanks.
This is what I went thru when purchasing our 2000 Monaco Windsor back in 2015. The water just wouldn't get hot, so I replaced the DC tstat, the anode and heating element, the blow off valve, flushed the tank (only white stuff came out...and lots of it!) and all of the LP piping/flue items. WOW! He's right....talk about a massive difference! And, it was very rewarding to be able to do it yourself, especially for those of us who are mechanically challenged. It just takes some time and patience. 👍
Currently have my water heater out to replace the water connections, and looking at all this as I have it out. So much detail and what a great video! I also learned some good info at store about PEX connections. But after watching a video that didn't show detail like this, I was about to spend more money than necessary. Thankfully another shopper showed me a better solution, and less expensive. The PEX crimper is very expensive tool for a 1 time use. Hopefully I will have your water tomorrow for Thanksgiving day! Thank you again. Anxious to watch your other videos!
For all those different Plumbing connections, here's a video we put out demonstrating some options you may find useful.
th-cam.com/video/fUkEDqlwCao/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Llf298JMOO0g1hBD
You’re teaching videos are excellent. We are retired and are about four months into owning our first RV. We are learning a tremendous amount from you.
Mel & Linda
Amazing how a leaky pop off valve, caused so much, but like you say, a neglected water heater. Just going through this on my recent purchase of a travel trailer, which during the back flush a lot of calcium material came out, and because the anode rod was almost at the wire, I'll have to check more things. Thanks for the video. Learned more.
I am finding these videos to be incredibly helpful. After watching them, I feel like I can successfully tackle whatever repair it was that you highlighted. Thanks! Subbed
Again EXCELLENT video and evident if you let a small leak continue it eventually $$COST$$ a lot more in the long run. A $13.00 pressure relief valve failure and customer EXTENDED neglect resulted in a +$300 repair. Darren Thank You !
I would refuse to repair this one, 10 min. inspection is enough to see multiple issues that need R&R. Not very cost effective to fix, Darren says several times that it needs to be replaced, but often people without sufficient resources ($) live in older RV's. They cannot afford to replace the old damaged unit. That's when it's challenging to be a field repair tech. Do you take money from customers without putting yourself in their tight spot. Some tech's do when the shop manager wants $250,000 this month from his 6 tech's. You know who you are. My experience is mobile tech's rarely do that. Thank Darren for being one of the good guys and showing you this challenging profession in a positive light. It's hard, but satisfying work. Viva Terlingua!
What you call the pop off valve I call a pressure relief valve. Either way, I've heard that you shouldn't flip the lever as you might not be able to seal it again. My position has always been that if it doesn't seal after you've flipped the lever then the valve needs to be replaced. If the valve isn't working properly then you can blow up your whole (cold water heater- I love that) water heater tank from being over pressurized. Very good video. Thanks for all your explanations.
Outstanding video. I’m new to my RV (2019 Rockwood 2104s). Your service video takes a lot of the mystery out of my water heater system. I understand what I am seeing back there now, how they operate & work together as well as the specs needed. Please know that your channel is helping people. Thanks 👍🏻🇺🇸
What a great and informative video. You are doing a great public service. I'm fairly handy, but you don't know what you don't know, and often you just need someone with knowledge to walk you through this stuff
great job! I've been through mine and you hit _all_ of the spots so very thoroughly. One thing you missed and is not a problem on good/proper water heater installations is the seal at the bottom between the inner metal backing plate of the water heater and the outer door flange. My trailer had no sealant at all between those so water from rain or drips from that OP valve would run down to the bottom, behind the door flange and into the trailer. it seeped to the front of the trailer in the forward corner and It was there for so long it rotted wood at the front lower section of the trailer. I found this and fixed it but later found the corner molding/siding screws rusted and loosened. I had to remove the front lower siding panel and replace a bunch of wood. It was never seen by the original owner and I only saw it as I started maintaining the trailer and got to the water heater.
Dealing with the exact same issue now. My floor is rotted from corner of sink over to leather recliner and under sink feels very thin. Water heater had crack on exterior seem needing welded. Going to try minwax wood hardner to soak the rotting wood and reharden after seeing good results on other videos, than patch up n seal
Kick ass service work, I am impressed whit your ability to do a complete job.
Thankyou so much from Australia. I needed this information so bad 🙂👍
iv been watching your videos this week and was amble to fix my water heater and my converter.i did as you said and tightened all the lugs on the neutral bar and ground bar and breakers. I was surprised on how loose some of the lugs were. I found a short under the trailer by the battery where the battery wire connects to the rv wiring. you are so helpful on explaining how stuff works and how to repair it. THANKYOU SO MUCH
Thank you for making these videos. I have been trying to get my water heater to work right and this video helped 10000%!
Glad to help
I too have watched several of these. This is THE BEST video of this. THANK YOU! Great camera work. Great explanation. Covered everything perfectly in detail.
Blessing! Da way u broke it down, im sure 2fix my water heater! Thanx again! Peace.
Oh..and just so ya know...I posted this video on the IRV2 forums just to show them what a great job you did! Thanks again for sharing this!
Thank you for the shout out. Hopefully it will help folks keep their water heater operating well and everyone could be a happy camper.
Your a good man for all that you do for us RV owners…….Thank You.
Good job troubleshooting and repairing and explaining why and how
Very helpful video, thanks. Some suggestions for your viewers, to improve their safety:
1. If you're depending upon the position of a remote switch to de-energize a high voltage circuit that you're going to work on, then the switch should be either Locked Out, i.e. physically locked to prevent someone from accessing it, or Tagged Out, i.e. affixing an unavoidable sign on the switch indicating it must be left as is. (If no one else is around, then this step is often omitted, but at your own peril.)
2. Always, always test that a circuit is indeed de-energized before touching it. Early in my career I lost a colleague to a faulty circuit breaker that had failed closed, in the open position. This is so important that, if I'm using an NCVT (non-contact voltage tester, which to my way of thinking are not totally reliable) I first test the NCVT on a known live circuit before I will trust my life on what otherwise could result from a false negative indication.
That's the best advice, that there ever was.
You'll note on that pop-off-valve it's threaded to accept a drain pipe. You can't cap/plug this or reduced the pipe diameter! but you can install a drain pipe to direct any drain water away from the water heater components. You might want to install a short pipe directing drain water out of the water heater area through the exterior cover. That would eliminate all the damage caused by water draining directly onto these components in the future. IMPORTANT: Match the pipe size of this outlet to the new drain pipe. If it's a 3/4" thread connection, the drain pipe must be 3/4" diameter for its entire length - NO REDUCTION ALLOWED. NO CAP OR PLUG ALLOWED on the end of this new drain. Leave the drain pipe wide open to allow water to discharge as needed.
I would add a insect screen to prevent mud daubers from building a nest in your outlet pipe
I do that for my water heater it's piped to drain under the van just in case
@@ericgundersen545 ]
Great video! I'm a newbie RVer, so I appreciate your videos! Plumbers I've worked with will use a couple wraps of teflon tape and then use some teflon paste. I've started doing that and it seems to work very well. Also, you can check your source voltage at the panel and compare that to the voltage across the heating element. Voltages should be the same. If not, then you can check backwards to see where you are losing voltage; old wiring, thermostat, switches, connectors, breakers, etc.
Darren, glad I caught this video as my wife and I are planning a trip to the Olympic peninsula and the gas part of my "cold" water heater isn't working. If we don't get it fixed before we leave we will call you when we get close. Great teaching video.
You can use PAM to remove that paste from your fingers if you get it on your skin.....it works on many things such as caulk etc.
Another great video. Thanks for sharing with us DIY'ers. Calling it a hot water heater is also one of my pet pieves.
Great video covering just about every component of the water heater. Thanks for sharing this.
Everest Keystone 2005 applicable. Thank you for the info!
Thanks!
Thank you for your sacrifice to help us understand the possible limitations. Now, aren't you glad the test is over?
Best learning videos I’ve found from prevention to repair.. thank you so much
Thanks to your video and of course your expertise I was able to by the grace of God fix my hot water heater.
We didn't have hot water since we bought it several months ago
Excellent video and explanation. Bookmarked your site and I’m sure there is plenty of help to be found. Thanks for what you do.
You really helped me alit. This has been my problem and your the first one of many that showed and explained. Thx. Your awesome.
I haver watched a lot of these and that was a very good job, in fact I'm gonna give you an A+. you covered every thing.
everything but new gas valve
Just a great video on how to prevent issues for yourself!
Very helpful video exactly what I needed to find the problem with my water heater
Another great video. I hope to continue to learn so I can do my own preventive maintenance and check ups. Thank you!
Perfect storm fro the owner equals the perfect lesson, top to bottom. Your are no slouuch of a teacher to..Thanks!!! This was even my exact heater on the new first ever 14 OY Trailer we just got. I fell like I hit the YT lottery. Heck yeah I liked, subscribed and set for notifications.
The high limit thermostat 180f or so, is there to kill the power, or propane before it gets to 200f, & opens the pop off valve. If both fail....BOOM! injury or death at the worst. Severe vehicle /home damage at best.
That's why it's resettable. So you can fix the problem. Most likely the low limit thermostat has failed.
At 140f, the water can cause 3rd degree burns in 6 seconds.
At 130f, in 30 seconds, according to the warning on my tank less water heater.
I've watched many of your videos. They're very good, & helpful. I live at the Mt. Baker RV Park in Glacier, Washington. Many people have water heater problems here, & there's a variety of different makes & models.
I'm not sure why one is resettable, when the replacement kits include both.
Maybe you can but just the low limit thermostat.
It's good to keep the pop off valve from sticking, by manually opening it, & replace it like you did if at all questionable.
Nice work.
Thanks again for all the great videos.
Running the pop off out of the units door is a good idea also. That way you can see a leak and this doesn't go on for too long
Thanks for all your help with our Rv maintenance.
Great video. If I followed correctly - the anode rod is installed in what is also the drain hole - and can be removed when draining the tank for winterization.
Great video. Very through and detailed. I have learned a lot. Restoring a 1982 Apollo 3000rb motorhome. Thanks very much. You are a lifesaver!
Thank you for all your help on Suburban water heater, My question is where can I a new pop off valve and thermostats ?
Great video. Just a tip-- coat all your terminals with something like liquid electrical tape or battery terminal spray. Really helps extend the time on terminal connections maintaining good continuity in an environment exposed to moisture.
HB you have to go home
WOW, this was a "Master Class" lesson and I learned a lot. Thank you for your knowledge and the time you took to show me all of the different systems in there. I just ordered a new anode rod and flush wand to service my water heater on my 2 year old trailer and this will help me. I also want to let you know that I did like and subscribe. I will be looking at your other videos for more "Master Class" level learning... Have a Blessed Day !!
Hey Darrin..... I cannot tell you how impressed I was with this video... You have saved me a handful of money... I can at least return the favor By purchasing my parts from you... Thank you for doing this video and the others that I look forward to seeing....
Excellent Job! I learned a lot about the water heater and will be able to maintenance myself.
Glad to hear! Happy Camping!
I always turn pump off and open hot water tap to prevent pressure on the tank and that valve, close taps and turn pump on when im going to have a shower or do dishes. Some tanks dont have anoids or room to put one in. good idea for backflush! No one does for their home tanks for sure!
Nice job-I know how much time and work goes into these videos and this is a real winner-thanks again.
so many parts failed.... at this point, I'd just put a completely new utin in there... But I've got to admin
Sir I give you a thumbs up just for correcting the "hot water heater" thing! Drives me crazy!
So it only heats cold water? That's interesting. What's the point in having a thermostat then?
Uh...Bob, it (T-stat) tells the heater that the water is too cool or cold...time to heat the cold water again and to turn off the HEATer when the water is hot. Now if it were heating hot water, then either the thermostat is not working..or maybe you're actually working on a boiler unit. I get it... The water feels hot.. so hence "hot water heater" but it's function is to heat cold water. It's the little things huh? GREAT VIDEO!!
Every time an RV tech says "water heater" instead of "hot water heater," an angel gets its wings. 😉
Great Tutorial. I appreciate you sharing your expertise.
I am glad I found you. I am planning on purchasing a used RV. I may need to go to your website to to make sure I do maintenance work. Appreciate your insight and vlog.
Hi Mary,
I am glad you found us too! I will keep making these service video's and you keep watching - in no time your 'new' RV will be in great shape!
Good luck on your pending purchase and Happy Camping!
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
@@DarrenKoepp360 great I will keep learning about what to look for and what to do. I will also share your channel to. Hope your day is good.
Mary you might want to consider having your RV inspected by a Certified NRVIA inspector. I purchased a used MH about 5 years ago but paid to have it inspected. My report is 32 pages long. It gives you peace of mine.
@@bobr6078 I do appreciate your insight I was wondering about having it done. Thank you very much. 🙂👍
Great PM tips. I learned a lot by watching the instructions. I would have liked to seen how you checked the gas flow on the gas tube side. Nice job and look forward to watching more of your instructions.
Fantastic video with just the right content and explanation. Just like a heater at the house, maintenance is key. Job well done!
Makes perfect sense to place the pop-off valve right over all the other components, just to make sure it all gets destroyed over a $20 dollar leaky part...lazy engineering.
I would definitely add a hose to that and let it go all the way down
Dont blame the engineer.
Blame the bean counters.
You can only engineer so much with whatever budget.
When the design money stops and the production money starts forward you go no matter any incomplete engineering.
great video, thanks!! i just wish they had put that ac power switch in a better location, i had to replace mine recently, a real pita!
Nicely done and explained. I'm about to replace the same type.
Great video and thanks for being so thorough and making it simple. One question. In the burner tube/tunnel I have water at times that accumulates inside that tube and then drips out and down the side of my RV. It this another problem I should be addressing?
Typically that might be an indication that the pressure temperature relief valve, up above with the lever on it, is leaking. It's around a $26 part. So you may want to actively back flush your water heater, to get all the sediment out of the tank, and put on a new pop off valve.
Excellent tutorial. Just picked up a 2006 Keystone rv with a Suburban SW6DE Direct Vent Gas water heater. I will be using your video as a guide to do a checkup. Q: where do you refill water in the tank? I think the video skipped that. And the switch is only if you want to use electric to heat the water, not gas? Thanks.
Hugh
This has been so very helpful, thanks for the education
Great in-depth videos. Why not add a short piece of pipe to the pop off valve to stop damage?
Excellent explanation. Time to inspect mine.
My practice is - When I am going to park my motorhome for a spell, I pull the
anode rod & drain the tank. I let it sit like that until I prepare for my next trip.
I then re install or replace the anode & go camping!
!
Cold water heater info gold mine
Very informative. Appreciated an overview of the components in a no nonsense manner. Also explained the functions of the components. Favorite part? Telling the service interval frequency! Could've included that on my walk around after purchasing my RV. Great job.
Thanks for the comment. It's hard to know how much to cover in these videos. I want to keep them short concise, but also want them to have value.
Look at the RV, the owner is a class act!
You are awesome with this teaching
This was a great vid. I’ve always wondered if it ok to run the gas burner and electric element at the same time in order to both heat water faster and also possibly extend shower time. Thanks!!!
It's a cold water heater initially, and when it is running non-stop it is a hot water heater! lol Also, you are amazing...even though Steve Kiemele has a Dometic. lol
These people that say "it drives me crazy when people call it a hot water heater " drive me crazy, because they can't grasp the concept of a thermostat.
You explain these systems very well..Thank you!
Second time I watched this. Still good.
Good job. Might help me some day thanks
Wow! Great video on everything you did, how you did it and what to expect along the way fo doing it! Really appreciate you taking the time to make the video and talk an owner through the process along the way! Keep up the great work!
Excellent instructional video. I will be checking my rv water heater next week. Where can I find your resource sheets? I would like to print them out and keep with my rv to remind me what I need to do each season. Wonderful job! Please keep on doing your excellent work!
Here is a link to our website where we have those sheets available for you.
myrvworks.com/resources/annual-service-worksheets/
Got them. Thank you so much for your excellent videos; best I had seen. Do you have one for a propane tank - I have a 2016 Winnebago view 24V ib a spinner chassis. Also, relevant to this video, do all water heaters have an anode rod?
WOW...Thank you very good information ! you helped me diagnose a issue. Thank you!!!
Awesome video, thanks to you I'm learning things any rver should learn to help themselves troubleshoot with more confidence and tackle much needed maintenance...God bless...
Very well put together video! Thank you so much for the info! I’m highly impressed.
Very informative and educational thank you for sharing 👏🏻
Yes, as the previous commenter mentioned, A+ and you covered everything! Super job!
Thanks for that. We do the best we can with what we have.
Another great video ! Very informative and probably the best tech in my opinion - your a great teacher/ trainer ! Do you ever do repairs on the RV leveling jack system ?
Yes we do, we've got a few videos of those as well. You'll find them under our playlist, that's how we organized them.
Very good video, where I got lost is with wiring, why just no pass the cables from one water pump to the new one?
Thank you for this!
Good job, step by step, and this rookie got it!
Great video!
Great video, Keep putting out the Vids!
I was able to fix my furnace by watching your videos, now my next project is the water heater, doing maintenance on it, thank you very much I live in my 06 wildcat 5th wheel
Thank you for the video Darren. I learned a lot. Question: Would a heat sink compound paste help transfer heat from the tank to the DC thermostat?
Not really. No more than putting a pan in an oven and expecting that heat transfer mastic to be more effective in heating your pizza. That whole thermostat is touching the metal. It could be argued that the transfer mastic will help transfer heat but when you're dealing with the water heater you're only going to get maybe an extra degree or two of resolution out of it.
The inside of the pressure relief valve is threaded. Why not add a drainage hose or tube to direct the water away from the items you discussed and repaired?
You're awesome. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great job, very thorough and informative. Liked and subscribed!
EXCELLENT VIDEO AND NARRATION !!!! GOOD JOB !!! INFORMATIVE !!!!
You and I are the only ones that I know of that use the term Water Heater instead of Hot water heater. Hot water tank is also acceptable . Great Job. How often do you get people offering to work for you for free.
Hi Darren - you mentioned a circuit board diagnostic checker; however, I was unable to locate in your diagnostics list.