If anybody wants a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store rockhill-farm.creator-spring.com/listing/rockhill-farm-logo Thanks for watching and check out our other John Deere 2038R compact tractor videos at th-cam.com/video/G9ccCrIRsgY/w-d-xo.html And subscribe to our channel at th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm
Man I love your sense of adventure and willingness to do and learn new things! Like you and I have said quite often you need to have a plan a, b, c, and d! And... every now and then you need a plan E or F! Another great episode looking forward to the next one, have a great evening!
Life is strange. When we've finally perfected a skill, we no longer have any use for it. That's because life is about the learning. Anything beyond that is misdirected effort. Oh, and maybe when you start putting up the wall bases, slap down a little regular mortar as you do. That will solidify and provide firm support for the wall, not just occasional contact. Keep up the good work!
Nice job Brock! I like the choice of mortar over concrete for that application. you shouldn't have any trouble with it bonding to the blocks, especially with the dowels and primer you used. Once the hut is on there, I think you'll be really happy with the end results.
Thanks for the feedback. It’s been a little bit stressful figuring out how to get it set properly but I really enjoy a challenge and looking forward to seeing the building standing Thanks for watching
The grinding wheel is from bad dog tools and I got it at the Tulsa farm show. Phenomenal grinding and cut off wheel because it is both. I’ve cut a lot of rebar and everything else with it and it’s still holding up. The drillbits were OK but not as impressive
This was how the salesman at the trade show told me to do it. I considered other options but the final decision was Mainly just the cost. This is a very expensive project as it is. I originally dug footings and got quotes to have footings and stem walls put up and it was going to be $10,000. I paid $600 for these blocks and they weigh 3800 pounds So even though these aren’t tied into the ground they do weigh a total of 38,000 pounds per side and it’s 2 foot thick concrete instead of the 8 inch thick stem wall I was quoted I considered building my own forms and pouring the concrete myself for the whole thing but I felt like it would’ve been more difficult to build a quality form that big And probably spent a lot on lumber I’m going to build the ground level up around these blocks to help anchor them in better as well. I’ve got a bunch of extra dirt left over from the pond dig
hi Brock, it looks really good you could have used 10 ft long 3/8 rebar and run it horizontal use tie wire to attach it to your rebar stubs suspended up about an inch and a half above the concrete blocks. but that might be a little Overkill since your mortar is only 3 in thick, Plus it might have gotten in the way of your anchor bolts, eventually the motor will get cracks between each block from expansion and contraction, but that's not going to hurt anything.
Couldn't the top of the angled form board be set at the same elevation as the top of the other form board? Then you could have just screeded across the top of them.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m pouring the other side today and was just thinking through that same idea. We couldn’t do it that way because the blocks were not level. Leveling up the entire thing was one of my two reasons for doing this I suppose if we ground the top of the concrete ridge until they were level and then got the boards cut exactly right it would be possible But the imperfections in that ridge on the other side would transfer into the new concrete
I’m definitely a do it yourself guy, but even if I had bought a pole barn I still would’ve had to pay someone to excavate the site and to do the concrete work. My bids for excavating and a full concrete pad we’re close to $20,000 I’m under $20,000 for the excavating the stem wall and the building purchase
I am. But it’s probably gonna be a few days still because I want to finish those drain lines. We are kind of working in a mud puddle Thanks for watching
If anybody wants a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store
rockhill-farm.creator-spring.com/listing/rockhill-farm-logo
Thanks for watching and check out our other John Deere 2038R compact tractor videos at th-cam.com/video/G9ccCrIRsgY/w-d-xo.html
And subscribe to our channel at th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes
Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm
All the hard work is showing
Nicely done, Brock! Great 🤔 on your part!! 👍
Thanks a lot
I'm excited to come back in 8 years and rewatch for ideas for my farm! So cool, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching
Man I love your sense of adventure and willingness to do and learn new things! Like you and I have said quite often you need to have a plan a, b, c, and d! And... every now and then you need a plan E or F! Another great episode looking forward to the next one, have a great evening!
Thank you sir
Looking Good Brock, one step closer
Thank you sir
You certainly do think outside the box, which I find is the best way to go through life. Creative minds are beautiful minds Ü
Thanks
Looks excellent! Also a neat approach to solve the problem.
Thanks
Great job. Looks nice.
Thanks
It looks very good. Just a thought. Maybe you could use a small 2X4 to get it close the final level.
Thanks for the suggestion. We finished pouring the other side about 30 minutes ago
Life is strange. When we've finally perfected a skill, we no longer have any use for it. That's because life is about the learning. Anything beyond that is misdirected effort. Oh, and maybe when you start putting up the wall bases, slap down a little regular mortar as you do. That will solidify and provide firm support for the wall, not just occasional contact. Keep up the good work!
Nothing I love more than learning a new skill.
Thanks for watching
Nice job Brock! I like the choice of mortar over concrete for that application. you shouldn't have any trouble with it bonding to the blocks, especially with the dowels and primer you used. Once the hut is on there, I think you'll be really happy with the end results.
Thanks for the feedback. It’s been a little bit stressful figuring out how to get it set properly but I really enjoy a challenge and looking forward to seeing the building standing
Thanks for watching
Are you using toe new cutting blade you bought at the show?
The grinding wheel is from bad dog tools and I got it at the Tulsa farm show.
Phenomenal grinding and cut off wheel because it is both. I’ve cut a lot of rebar and everything else with it and it’s still holding up.
The drillbits were OK but not as impressive
Maybe I missed it, but why did you choose the blocks instead of just pouring a low wall?
This was how the salesman at the trade show told me to do it. I considered other options but the final decision was Mainly just the cost.
This is a very expensive project as it is. I originally dug footings and got quotes to have footings and stem walls put up and it was going to be $10,000. I paid $600 for these blocks and they weigh 3800 pounds
So even though these aren’t tied into the ground they do weigh a total of 38,000 pounds per side and it’s 2 foot thick concrete instead of the 8 inch thick stem wall I was quoted
I considered building my own forms and pouring the concrete myself for the whole thing but I felt like it would’ve been more difficult to build a quality form that big And probably spent a lot on lumber
I’m going to build the ground level up around these blocks to help anchor them in better as well. I’ve got a bunch of extra dirt left over from the pond dig
hi Brock, it looks really good you could have used 10 ft long 3/8 rebar and run it horizontal use tie wire to attach it to your rebar stubs suspended up about an inch and a half above the concrete blocks. but that might be a little Overkill since your mortar is only 3 in thick, Plus it might have gotten in the way of your anchor bolts, eventually the motor will get cracks between each block from expansion and contraction, but that's not going to hurt anything.
Thanks for the feedback. Once that wall is bolted to it All the way down it shouldn’t make as big of difference if it did crack
Couldn't the top of the angled form board be set at the same elevation as the top of the other form board? Then you could have just screeded across the top of them.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m pouring the other side today and was just thinking through that same idea.
We couldn’t do it that way because the blocks were not level. Leveling up the entire thing was one of my two reasons for doing this
I suppose if we ground the top of the concrete ridge until they were level and then got the boards cut exactly right it would be possible But the imperfections in that ridge on the other side would transfer into the new concrete
You’re quite a go-getter but if it would’ve been me I would’ve just made a few calls and had someone else put up a pole barn For me
I’m definitely a do it yourself guy, but even if I had bought a pole barn I still would’ve had to pay someone to excavate the site and to do the concrete work.
My bids for excavating and a full concrete pad we’re close to $20,000
I’m under $20,000 for the excavating the stem wall and the building purchase
I'd bet you're getting antsy to start construction and be done with all of the prep work.
I am. But it’s probably gonna be a few days still because I want to finish those drain lines. We are kind of working in a mud puddle
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT Is there any kind of membrane or gasket that goes between the metal and the concrete?
Caulking is the only thing recommended in the book