Serviced mine 2017 f250 at 100K and the fluid was reddish pouring out but looked muddy in the catcher. I put 8 quarts in ran it for about 30 minutes, drained and put 8 new quarts in. That was 2000 miles ago. I still think about draining one more time.
You should change it again after like 1k miles. Let that first change free up the shit in the back gears and then clean it out with a second change. And don’t listen to the factory recommendations, change it ever 50k.
totaly i have a 2019 f 350 get hard 5-6 after every 40-45k miles i change filter and fluid and its gone till i get back that high mind you i have 194,966 miles, just traded it in . still running strong.
@@15Jeep did this at 80k miles worked fairly well for a while . i think its the filters get so bad that it starts making things not work like they should,
I am a career Ford diesel tech. I spent the last 8 years of my tech career in the Permian basin oil patch. I now teach local technicians. I have never recommended the filter/fluid refill strategy the way you did it. I have performed probably close to 1,000 transmission services. I have always told costumers to disregard factory guidelines and flush the trans every 30-40k. But the important thing is to replace the filter at 100k miles and flush it first. Only changing the filter and refilling is a fools gamble. That replaces less than half of the fluid. Flush properly with 16 quarts and the fluid will look like brand new. At 100k, flush as usual, then replace the filter AFTER flushing. The trucks I've used this strategy never have trans problems. My personal 6.7 has almost 300,000 road miles + over 12,500 idle hours. My trans fluid looks like new and the trans performs flawlessly. And it's power level is about 600hp, so not stock. I absolutely hate BG equipment, I've seen several transmissions destroyed while using that equipment. Find a shop that uses a Wynn's TransServeIII, and request a 16qt service. Yes it's expensive, but do it right or gtfo is my opinion. I personally own one of these machines and have 2 extra for parts. I drive the truck to get trans warmed to operating temp, then asap begin the flush so the thermostat is open allowing a proper flush. While flushing go through all possible gears while holding and brake torquing slightly in each to maintain heat in the trans keeping the t-stat open. By the time 16qts goes through it, your good to go. Turn off flush machine and allow fluid to circulate for 5 minutes to allow trans to cool a bit before shutting engine off. If you need to change the filter, this is the time. Save the drained fluid(new) to put back in. Go for another drive to reach operating temp, and then check level.
You are CORRECT.....the FLUSH method is the BEST way to maintain and service a transmission. The "drain and fill" method is not good...dirty ATF from the torque converter mixes with the clean ATF.....not good. The flush method also works great on other components and systems...coolant, power steering fluid, etc. I have had my Ford Super Duty trucks maintained and serviced with BG equipment for years...including Air Fuel Induction service every 15,000 miles. I have all systems flushed every 30,000 miles. What exactly and precisely are the reasons you prefer the Wynn Equipment - the Wynn Trans Serve III????? The 6R140 is an excellent transmission. So is the 4R100 if built with quality aftermarket parts. BTS in Arkansas has built thousands of 4R100 for towing, racing and truck pulling...and 5R110 for towing.
@@15Jeep the BG trans flush machine is not a user friendly device and 1 wrong move and trans is toast. It has a horrible bladder tank that theoretically you have to empty the bladder from previous flush, then fill the bladder with new fluid. As it runs the service the theory is that the bladder emptying pulls the old fluid into the opposite side with the assumption that it guarantees equal drain/fill ratio. In practice you can't add enough fluid to do a proper trans service on a Super Duty, and draining/filling is a PITA, so Technicians will intentionally service your truck with a lesser amount which on my opinion is no better than a standard drain and fill. I've had the BG rep demonstrate on a vehicle and even he fought to get it to operate properly. I refused to let him finish demonstrating and told him that if he couldn't properly operate the equipment that I dam sure was not going to trust an idiot lube tech to do it. After a few senior techs had problems with the machine, the service manager started steering all the trans flushes to me where I used the Wynn's machine and never had problems. The Wynn's machine doesn't use any stupid fancy difficult to use bladder tank. It has a reservoir you add the new fluid to that hills enough to flush any vehicle on the world. I think it holds about 45 qts. It has an integrated pump to assist in bypassing the thermostat that most vehicles now have. And the old fluid dragons into a bucket or oil drain tote. I can visually watch the level on the fill tank to know the fluid is flowing or when it's about done. And I could see the bucket. The machine had a fire indicator wheel that gave a nice visual to know how good the flow was, that helped me regulate trans temp while brake torquing. Only enough brake torquing to keep it flowing smooth, but not too much where the wheel spin so fast that I knew the trans was overheating. Lots of experience helps. After I left that dealer the trans services are no longer sold. Now they only offer filter drain and fill. Coincidentally a friend of mine manages a small independent shop and BG came to do a demo for the techs on the new equipment and he let the BG guy use his 2 year old GMC truck. Long story short he needed a new trans within a week. I don't personally think the BG machine caused the failure, but I think it's overly complicated causing user error and that's when you get problems.
Mr. HGFFrank: love your transmission service explanation. Attention to detail. Quick question, please, please: have you ever heard of a Ford super duty truck transmission making a buzzing, not clicking, but more like a continuous chopping or grinding. 190k on an 2015 F450 with a dump body, 6.7 diesel. Trying to figure out the noise. Truck starts cold, sounds beautiful. In a few minutes, very quickly, a noise almost like fan blades scraping a thin metal staccato comes alive. Does not go up and down with engine revs. Seems to go away and some speeds while driving. Confident it's not the engine, but it does change tone when put in gear and neutral, but not much. Also sounds like a loose nut or grille plate or bracket with a vibration that is just plain loud outside underneath. Just got this truck, driving me out of what is left of the mind that God gave me. Any thoughts appreciated.
Bro I bought a used 2015 eco boost F150 and 2days after bringing it home from the dealers I noticed the same problems. After spending hours in forums and changing some least expensive parts trying to figure out what was wrong, I eventually did exactly what you did and drained and changed my transmission fluid and filter and my truck has been running amazing ever since.
As others have commented, recommend another drop and fill within 1k miles. On my '17, I'm shy of 35k and plan to do a drop and fill, with filter change. Will follow 35k intervals, which worked well with my 2006 6.0. Thanks for sharing "What not to do" regarding servicing the transmission.
Actually best to perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush. Check out BG Products and Equipment - Wichita Kansas.
A couple years ago we bought a used 2017 F-350 PS with ~75k from a general used car dealer (not a Ford dealer) with what we later found was a busted 6R140. It was either caused by the original owner, or it was a lemon transmission when new because a Ford dealer did a substantial rebuild on it at 20k miles, within year 1 off the lot. The trans was probably the reason he got rid it after 3 years. Problem is the shifts were and are so imperceptible above 15 MPH that nothing ever felt wrong even when towing with up to 4000 lbs attached. The problem didn't first appear until we were towing a 42' 5W up AZ mountains and the truck started overheating. I may be wrong but if we took it to just any repair place before buying it I have doubts the problem would have been caught because no dash lights/warnings were on nor did any appear during driving. Initially it seemed like an engine issue, then it was always the transmission overheating first. While on the road we got the transmission fluid done at a Ford dealer. They said there might be a problem but couldn't confirm and could not get us in for weeks. Week and a half later we're headed back home partly due to the truck malfunctioning, and it stranded us in desert heat for a couple hours waiting for things to cool back down partly because it would not shift above 4th gear. We limped it home, took the trailer off, and it immediately acted like nothing was wrong again. Got it to a Ford dealer with a Ford-cert'd trans tech immediately, and within hours the tech said 1) complete rebuild or 2) full replacement with #2 being preferred. We went with #2. We waited 5 weeks to drop $11k, and the truck was performing like new. The extended warranty service we got had told us to F off, hiding behind their determination we caused it when the tech showed their adjuster it couldn't have been us. The truck has been fine ever since and tows the 42' perfectly fine. Whatever the original owner did either through service neglect or beating on the thing somehow, he passed a 5-figure issue on to us. But without a Ford cert'd tech and Ford equipment, let alone scheduling an appt at a Ford dealer to get it checked out when they were all backed up for weeks while diesel trucks were selling out almost faster than we could find one that could tow the weight, I don't know that any shop would've found the problem.
Btw, yeah your trans is shifting better since it's not trying to pump sludge... but replacing the fluid isn't going to replace the massive amounts of metal that were removed from the clutch surfaces and internal parts. Why do think your ATF looked like 15W40 with 15k on it? It was filled with metal particles that were eroded away from the inside of the trans, and the only way to fix that is with a full rebuild.
For the past year, I usually watch your videos. Two reasons, 1 I am a Ford man and 2 I am from the same area. I visited SWP back in November since one of my brothers was terminal. I drove past Burgettstown Ford a few times which you featured in your video from earlier. I think on the 14th of November my brother and I were driving up 79 in the construction zone for the south beltway and I think we passed you pulling a small trailer. I remember it was a Ford Superduty 4wd with a black trailer. We were heading north. I spent time in Burgettstown, 84, and Bethel Park.
2000 Ford F-350 crew cab. V-10 6.8 20 valve. Bombproof with after market. Approximately, 300 horse power with after market improvements to cure design and manufacturing shortcomings and defects in the V-10. October 2020: Certified Transmission out of Omaha, Nebraska, Road Ripper 3000 (stage 3), 4R100 automatic transmission. DieselSite external transmission filter. Shift is firm, not harsh. Overbuilt for the V-10 but my chance of wearing it out in the 6 year/300,000 mile warranty is a low probability. It is a good match for your power output. Both front and rear axles rebuilt, Yukon TrueTrac in both axles, reduced in town use of 4wd for snow covered parking. Your transmission is done, get building.
Well here is my take on this, No one correctly realizes how important maintenance is, whether it’s stock or has some stuff done to it like this one you have to maintain your vehicle if you so that it will take care of you 86k is a long time to go with no trans fluid change that was your truck telling you it needs a change. Hopefully it holds up for you
Mercon LV is known to darken, but not to that level under normal circumstances. 6R140 is a tough transmission. I have a 1st run (early 2010 build date) that needed some solenoids replaced for a horrible 3-4 shift when cold, but was right back to 100% after that. Check your "band numbers" before changing solenoids.
That trans is shot. If you have enough material in the filter to clog it its game over. Now you might be able to limp it along but I doubt it's got much time left. The whine you were hearing was from the pump struggling to pull fluid through the filter.
Same issue I had with tunes I bought from you. Hard shifting, clutch slippage. Had to put it in stock. Reached out to the tuner and was told to just keep driving.
I've installed many tunes and I refuse to change the stock trans tune to aftermarket. None of these people know that trans better than Ford. I personally know the man who created the training content for the 6r140 that is taught around the world. The guy was absolutely brilliant. I wish he were still alive. When I first tuned my truck I called him and he said "tune the engine, not the trans" I trust his opinion, and have never had a problem. He was the smartest Ford trainer I ever met, and most of my training was in Dearborn, MI
@@hgffrank I agree however the tune I was sent was a hot tune for both trans and engine. I tried to get them to send me just engine but they never replied, still haven’t
@@hgffrank This is the main reason I have not tuned my 2015 6.7. If I could find a tune that did not mess with the transmission I would do it for sure. Can you recommend one?
@@martinsteflik1329 You can get one from Corey. But keep in mind these transmissions need a bit of time to learn. But after 300 miles, if it acts up ask for a revision
In general this is recommendation from me if you are driving your truck hard or if you are pushing your truck with heavy load transportation every week I recommend changing your transmission oil and filter if it has any also clean the transmission oil pan magnetic plate if it has any to maximize the transmission life. Do not go over 50k per service.
Yep as already mentioned always do a 2nd drain and refill especially it the fluid was that bad. Can't get all of it out draining like that so needs a 2nd. I change at like 30k
Just changed my transmission fluid, and filter + both rear ends and transfer case at 78000, on the 2017 F350. Trans fluid was blackish red, I thought my fluid was dirty.
There is no reason at all that that transmission is still working HOW!!!! Thanks for the update I was planning on changing my transmission fluid at 75,000 but I’m gonna go ahead and do it at 60,000
If you are starting to think you should really have that service done, it means you're 5-10k past the time the service is needed. Double that if it's towing regularly.
Low reverse clutch pack is smoked, I think that pack is engaged bellow 5mph and 3-4 if I remember right. I was running gdp banana smoothie tune and it smoothied the clutches right out of the truck in 14,000 miles
That magnet looked dirty but not bad. My 2011 with the gas engine had a little metal on it at the first service at 125k. New fluid and filter made it run 10 degrees cooler and shift a little better. But it's all stock and only makes 370hp.
I did service my own transmission at home once I lost warranty and I like doing stuff my self. So my transmission fluid came out red but also blackish red. Not bad if it’s got a little black to it but it should also be red. Your transmission was running in the red zone. The magnet for the metal debris is supposed to be less dirty than that.
fudge ford recommended anything lol great job , service it every 40k miles due to your high hp your beating the 6r140 its supposed to be smart but that thing is not the brightest apple. i do all my on services ,5k oil+filter change rottela t6 , 10k diff fluid change rear gets opened blasted with 6/7 bottles of brake cleaner and put back together and filled Valvoline gear fluid + ford friction modifier , swap intake manifold @ 50k thing gets crusty , grease u-joints every 5k green grease ,tranny fluid change + filter every 50k mottorcraft, i can keep going lol i just traded in my dually with 194.966 miles and that things was working amazing annoying hard shifts every 40k miles from 5/6 just did the change and gone for 40k miles .
That "weird sound" is cavitation in the pump due to thinned out (burnt) fluid. The reason it was slipping/delayed shifting is due to lack of conistant pressure on holding devices caused by the cavitating pump from thinned out/aerated fluid. The new fluid has now restored this, but the damage is done to the clutches. Slipping is slipping. Material has been lost...
Mine started doing that supercharger whine sound after I had a fluid changed at 40,000. It seems to only do it above half throttle and in the lower gears. Transmission shifts great if it’s driven carefully but any hard acceleration and it slips like a sumbish
I had bad tuning from a reputable shop “that everyone” uses and burned up a 2016 trans after 40,000 miles had to completely rebuild it. Also ive learned with these 6r140s theyre built really strong and very well but......the moment they start downshifting hard its a WRAP JACK...... yeah after tcm tunes they will upshift kinda ruff while youre on it but thats because of line pressures stuff like that once they start downshifting hard coming to a stop you need new frictions because yours are burnt to shit or just gone.... i went with warren diesels billet 6r140 with billet flexplate and its badass
We had a 2016 at regular power in an f550 at about 45000 miles the fluid was burnt and it delays going into reverse. All our other 2012 and 2011’s are fine. Don’t know why this one has developed a problem. Once ours shifts to reverse it’s fine just delayed. Tried reprogramming and resetting the adaptive learning. Helped a little but still there. Could you have had a restricted filter? If it was whining I would think restriction.
Just when I thought we were going to see some good transmission rebuild content. I hope it still happens. Your possibly lucky or just bought some time to order a complete rebuild kit.
Yes...you have a lot of that dirty fluid left throughout that transmission and the torque converter. Drive it around for a week or so and do another fluid and filter change.
I serviced my transmission myself at home. The magnet is not supposed to be that dirty and the fluid is supposed to be semi dirty. Not black like yours. Needs to have some red. U are very lucky it just needed some fluid.
Changling Trans fluid is not like a engine oil change, there are many different factors that your dealing with in a transmission, friction confident, detergents and viscosity of the fluid , then the ware of the components manly the friction rings and steels in the clutch packs that control the power transfer inside the transmission, these clutches will ware out over time and leave materials in the transmission fluid that change the color and smell of the trans fluid. The transclutches on the truck my need to be checked they may start slipping. The fluid chang is just going to be a patch that will get you down the road for a time.
I have a 19” f350. Had the same issue. I didn’t have as much as you have done. But I lost 3-4 th gear. Ford wouldn’t warranty the work. Truck only had 48k miles on it
F'n A. Same exact gears as ours (2017). Ours would still drive, but the 3-4 shift was always different after someone pointed it out to us. Ours crapped at ~76k (actually before that but it didn't show up as a problem until it was too late), and that was after a Ford-performed rebuild at 20k during someone else's ownership. Our aftermarket warranty company screwed us. Ford wouldn't cover a thing. $11k to get it back working normally.
Sorry but the factory transmissions are set for factory HP! When you up the HP in the truck your transmission also needs to be beefed up. It’s only a very logical scenario.
I highly suggest this guy puts some hotshots secret transmission additive. If you can't properly maintain your diesels, you shouldn't own one!!! People like this don't clearly maintain their vehicles and then if it blew out, they will blame the brand.
Perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain and fill. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. WARNING: High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush.
Hello , I have a 2015 Ford f350 6.7 engine , and have a problems with a transmission every morning when the truck is cold , wnen I put Drive dont do nothing , I need wait like 10 minutes and then works I not sure if my trnsmission going?
If you save the old fluid that would send it off to get it burnt at Blackstone labs. I'm curious if you have any metal particles in there or it was just bad fluid
I do it about every 30k on my f150 since I tow often with it. Spending $100-$200 every 30k is worth it if you get more life out of the trans in my opinion
I have had similar issues with mine. Slams into P/R/N/D. Takes a while to shift into gear and shifts hard or late. Taken it to Ford multiple times and they have done nothing to fix it. Not sure what to do. Truck only gas 72k miles
Shocker. What did you expect to find ? Looks like more than 650 hp on stock Trans is bad !!! If you are smart you best change it again because you left a lot of bad fluid in the transmission. But it's your truck.
Exactly Correct! Change it again...again...again...again...and again....but still dirty ATF mixing with clean ATF. Actually best to perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush.
Question on my 13’ 66mm non vgt did my last service about 28-30k miles ago starting to have a delay shift at wot driving around 60-65 smash on it on 2 lane highway to get around someone drops to 4th wont shift past until I let out? Was thinking it may be valve body but also used vavoline fluid? Herd bad things you think if I service filter and fluid with mercon lv it will correct the issue or you think valve body is bad? Or trans is going out?
The best way to maintain and service an automatic transmission is to perform a BG flush.....removes all of the dirty ATF, including the torque converter. The Drain and Fill method...not good because it leaves the dirty ATF in the torque converter to mix with the clean ATF. CHECK OUT ------. BG Products and Equipment - Wichita Kansas. The company has been in business several decades and has a stellar reputation for products and equipment to properly maintain and service a vehicle.
So I got a 2019 f250 powerstroke about a week ago with 33k miles on it, it was a one owner. And when I put it into drive from park it lounges forward a bit but not hard, same thing with reverse but lounges backwards. It also seems a little sluggish on the shifts and you can feel the shifts, does the same thing when it downshifts while coasting to a stop, but I wouldn’t go so far as to say they are jerky. I was wondering if this is normal or if I need to have it looked at.
Correct.......the "drain and fill" method mixes the dirty ATF from the torque converter with the clean ATF. The best way to maintain and service an automatic transmission is to perform a flush...removes all the dirty ATF.
Change via "drain and fill....5 times within 3,000 to 5,000 miles....there will still be some dirty ATF mixed in with clean ATF. Granted the more times the ATF is changed, the more diluted the dirty ATF will be...small ratio with the clean ATF. The best method -------> Perfrom a BG flush....removes ALL of the dirty ATF from the transmission...including the torque converter. FLUSH every 30,000 miles.....clean ATF equals no thermal energy (heat energy). Heat is the death and destruction of engines, transmissions, tires, etc.
So i have a 2018 6.7. jus picked up fluid and filter to do my trans. Wanted to verify the guys at napa sold me the correct fluid so watched this video. They sold me Mercron V. is that correct or should i have Mercron LV? Thanks!
When I worked at Ford we recommend what the service manager said,120k highway miles or 90-100k mixed off-road/highway but if I knew someone had anything done to their rig where they made decent power I always recommended 70-80k. It’s cheap reassurance really.
And I’m talking for a full flush with filter. I’d drop the pan and put a new filter in every 40k personally. But definitely full flush every 80k but that’s my personal opinion
He beat the living daylights out of that truck and hotshotted it . I think it’s held up well. A Dodge 68RFE 2would have failed years ago , and Allison would have limped years ago and needed beefing up
@@JohnDiMartino my buddys got a 2012 ram 3500 380k miles with bigger turbo, bigger injectors hot tunes,trans tunes and it hotshot heavy loads the first 150k of its life, the rest is racing,daily and playing on the street. Trans dont miss a beat!
@Garrett Sheehan yeah but will depend on which sensitivity setting u put it on. On the highest setting a little gas and u will be smoking ur tires! I don’t like the turbo lag because I’m always pulling trailers so it was frustrating when going up hills and u give a little gas and nothing happened until u smashed the pedal to the floor.
@@brianrezarch7477 If you have a 6.7L...press on the accelerator.....gives more fuel...diesel fuel...NOT gasoline. Another good one....mechanics do not rebuild motors...they rebuild engines......because motors run on electricity and engines run on a combustible fuel...ignited by spark or heat.
Question for everyone, I got a 15' with 65k miles that's never been done and I wanna change the trans filter also but should I just do a drain and refill then drive it for about 100 miles or so.. THEN drop the pan completely and the filter..? That way I can get as much as the old fluid out ? Am I right ?? T.I.A
Probably because he beats the shit out of that truck. I've seen hundreds of Super Duties come to the shop that have huge service beds with Cranes and many had less that 30k and the fluid was garbage. Mileage has little to do with it. Operating temp is the primary destroyer of trans fluid.
I have MPD compound turbo on my 2017 6.7 powerstroke. I am getting the 3rd to 4th gear chirp in the transmission. I am looking for a good tuner to see if this will correct the issues. Anyone else having this problem? help!
As bad as your fluid was, know that you left about half of it in there. That trans holds almost 14qts and you got 8 of them. The rest of that poison is hiding in there... GET IT OUT by doing AT LEAST one more swap of fluid. Better yet consider using a really good fluid like a Redline D6 or the like on your next swap then drive with confidence.
I'll tell you what you did wrong when you built the truck an if any of you all out there want to build a truck do what I did mine has everything done to it but a chip or tuner I have 01 Ford f250 Xlt 4x4 off road powerstroke diesel quad cab here is what I did I bought the truck with 86500 on it #8 piston was broke so I bought it an smoked really bad so I had it picked up an hauled home then did some research an found it had the piston problem well I couldn't get a new 7.3 an didn't want a used one so I had it rebuilt bored it 30 over bigger values an injectors then bigger fan in my turbo turned the pump up an put 355 pos gears front an back then changed speed sensor so it wouldn't burn yrans up oh itll fly but like I said everything's been done to it an the only step left is to chip or tune it but I think its just fine started in -10 not plugged in an it still only has 88700 on it clean no rust or tears in seats I passed up $36000.00 cash for it don't drive it in snow or salt love my fords I drive my 85 Ford f250 xl 4x4 351 Windsor an new trans with new trans cooler Hyden 10000 pound towing an shift kit its awesome strait pipes from mans to rear no collectors or converters either don't want to stand on it after 9 pm in town its loud but ill never buy a 6.0 6.4 or 6.7 to much an takes a lot to delete them you can delete a 6.7 Cummings cheaper an you can get up to a 1000 hp out of it look it up much better you can build a Duramax to check out Ivan's on Utube it smokes all over Dodge Viper .....but if you have a problem with you Powerstroke lok up Bill Hewitt Powerstroke Help . COM
The factory has a shifty cooler i recommend installing a heavy duty remote cooler. On stock tunes and normal driving the temp will run around 230. Way too high for any trans to live.
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Transmissions don’t heal themselves. You just bought a little more time.
I would perform the fluid change at least one more time,as you still have not emptied the torque converter ✌️
Serviced mine 2017 f250 at 100K and the fluid was reddish pouring out but looked muddy in the catcher. I put 8 quarts in ran it for about 30 minutes, drained and put 8 new quarts in. That was 2000 miles ago. I still think about draining one more time.
You should change it again after like 1k miles. Let that first change free up the shit in the back gears and then clean it out with a second change. And don’t listen to the factory recommendations, change it ever 50k.
Sell it and get a civic, wayyyy less bullshit
matthew anderson pos
totaly i have a 2019 f 350 get hard 5-6 after every 40-45k miles i change filter and fluid and its gone till i get back that high mind you i have 194,966 miles, just traded it in . still running strong.
Perform BG flush every 30,000 miles.....will greatly increase the durability and reliability of the transmission
@@15Jeep did this at 80k miles worked fairly well for a while . i think its the filters get so bad that it starts making things not work like they should,
We recommend 60k on trans service... I service these regularly and I’ve never seen one that bad. You got lucky lol
I definitely would not wait until 60,000 miles. Perform a BG flush service every 30,000 miles.
UPDATET ! _______
That doody takes a bitch slap daily.
I do mine every 25-30 k. Cheap insurance. Not a full drain but dump and fill till clean
I am a career Ford diesel tech. I spent the last 8 years of my tech career in the Permian basin oil patch. I now teach local technicians. I have never recommended the filter/fluid refill strategy the way you did it. I have performed probably close to 1,000 transmission services. I have always told costumers to disregard factory guidelines and flush the trans every 30-40k. But the important thing is to replace the filter at 100k miles and flush it first. Only changing the filter and refilling is a fools gamble. That replaces less than half of the fluid.
Flush properly with 16 quarts and the fluid will look like brand new. At 100k, flush as usual, then replace the filter AFTER flushing. The trucks I've used this strategy never have trans problems. My personal 6.7 has almost 300,000 road miles + over 12,500 idle hours. My trans fluid looks like new and the trans performs flawlessly. And it's power level is about 600hp, so not stock. I absolutely hate BG equipment, I've seen several transmissions destroyed while using that equipment. Find a shop that uses a Wynn's TransServeIII, and request a 16qt service. Yes it's expensive, but do it right or gtfo is my opinion. I personally own one of these machines and have 2 extra for parts.
I drive the truck to get trans warmed to operating temp, then asap begin the flush so the thermostat is open allowing a proper flush. While flushing go through all possible gears while holding and brake torquing slightly in each to maintain heat in the trans keeping the t-stat open. By the time 16qts goes through it, your good to go. Turn off flush machine and allow fluid to circulate for 5 minutes to allow trans to cool a bit before shutting engine off. If you need to change the filter, this is the time. Save the drained fluid(new) to put back in. Go for another drive to reach operating temp, and then check level.
I’m in your area. Thanks for the words of wisdom. Do you know of any shops in the Permian that use that wynns machine?
You are CORRECT.....the FLUSH method is the BEST way to maintain and service a transmission. The "drain and fill" method is not good...dirty ATF from the torque converter mixes with the clean ATF.....not good. The flush method also works great on other components and systems...coolant, power steering fluid, etc. I have had my Ford Super Duty trucks maintained and serviced with BG equipment for years...including Air Fuel Induction service every 15,000 miles. I have all systems flushed every 30,000 miles. What exactly and precisely are the reasons you prefer the Wynn Equipment - the Wynn Trans Serve III????? The 6R140 is an excellent transmission. So is the 4R100 if built with quality aftermarket parts. BTS in Arkansas has built thousands of 4R100 for towing, racing and truck pulling...and 5R110 for towing.
@@15Jeep the BG trans flush machine is not a user friendly device and 1 wrong move and trans is toast. It has a horrible bladder tank that theoretically you have to empty the bladder from previous flush, then fill the bladder with new fluid. As it runs the service the theory is that the bladder emptying pulls the old fluid into the opposite side with the assumption that it guarantees equal drain/fill ratio. In practice you can't add enough fluid to do a proper trans service on a Super Duty, and draining/filling is a PITA, so Technicians will intentionally service your truck with a lesser amount which on my opinion is no better than a standard drain and fill. I've had the BG rep demonstrate on a vehicle and even he fought to get it to operate properly. I refused to let him finish demonstrating and told him that if he couldn't properly operate the equipment that I dam sure was not going to trust an idiot lube tech to do it. After a few senior techs had problems with the machine, the service manager started steering all the trans flushes to me where I used the Wynn's machine and never had problems. The Wynn's machine doesn't use any stupid fancy difficult to use bladder tank. It has a reservoir you add the new fluid to that hills enough to flush any vehicle on the world. I think it holds about 45 qts. It has an integrated pump to assist in bypassing the thermostat that most vehicles now have. And the old fluid dragons into a bucket or oil drain tote. I can visually watch the level on the fill tank to know the fluid is flowing or when it's about done. And I could see the bucket. The machine had a fire indicator wheel that gave a nice visual to know how good the flow was, that helped me regulate trans temp while brake torquing. Only enough brake torquing to keep it flowing smooth, but not too much where the wheel spin so fast that I knew the trans was overheating. Lots of experience helps. After I left that dealer the trans services are no longer sold. Now they only offer filter drain and fill. Coincidentally a friend of mine manages a small independent shop and BG came to do a demo for the techs on the new equipment and he let the BG guy use his 2 year old GMC truck. Long story short he needed a new trans within a week. I don't personally think the BG machine caused the failure, but I think it's overly complicated causing user error and that's when you get problems.
@@dylandelarosa9856 TX or NM?
Mr. HGFFrank: love your transmission service explanation. Attention to detail. Quick question, please, please:
have you ever heard of a Ford super duty truck transmission making a buzzing, not clicking, but more like a continuous chopping or grinding. 190k on an 2015 F450 with a dump body, 6.7 diesel. Trying to figure out the noise. Truck starts cold, sounds beautiful. In a few minutes, very quickly, a noise almost like fan blades scraping a thin metal staccato comes alive. Does not go up and down with engine revs. Seems to go away and some speeds while driving. Confident it's not the engine, but it does change tone when put in gear and neutral, but not much. Also sounds like a loose nut or grille plate or bracket with a vibration that is just plain loud outside underneath. Just got this truck, driving me out of what is left of the mind that God gave me. Any thoughts appreciated.
Impressed with those torque shifts. Damn near bullet proof
Bro I bought a used 2015 eco boost F150 and 2days after bringing it home from the dealers I noticed the same problems. After spending hours in forums and changing some least expensive parts trying to figure out what was wrong, I eventually did exactly what you did and drained and changed my transmission fluid and filter and my truck has been running amazing ever since.
The 1st time I've listened to him, and I enjoyed it, you'll never hear me say that about anything. Thanks for your advice and how funny you are,
As others have commented, recommend another drop and fill within 1k miles. On my '17, I'm shy of 35k and plan to do a drop and fill, with filter change. Will follow 35k intervals, which worked well with my 2006 6.0. Thanks for sharing "What not to do" regarding servicing the transmission.
Actually best to perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush. Check out BG Products and Equipment - Wichita Kansas.
A couple years ago we bought a used 2017 F-350 PS with ~75k from a general used car dealer (not a Ford dealer) with what we later found was a busted 6R140. It was either caused by the original owner, or it was a lemon transmission when new because a Ford dealer did a substantial rebuild on it at 20k miles, within year 1 off the lot. The trans was probably the reason he got rid it after 3 years.
Problem is the shifts were and are so imperceptible above 15 MPH that nothing ever felt wrong even when towing with up to 4000 lbs attached. The problem didn't first appear until we were towing a 42' 5W up AZ mountains and the truck started overheating. I may be wrong but if we took it to just any repair place before buying it I have doubts the problem would have been caught because no dash lights/warnings were on nor did any appear during driving. Initially it seemed like an engine issue, then it was always the transmission overheating first. While on the road we got the transmission fluid done at a Ford dealer. They said there might be a problem but couldn't confirm and could not get us in for weeks. Week and a half later we're headed back home partly due to the truck malfunctioning, and it stranded us in desert heat for a couple hours waiting for things to cool back down partly because it would not shift above 4th gear. We limped it home, took the trailer off, and it immediately acted like nothing was wrong again. Got it to a Ford dealer with a Ford-cert'd trans tech immediately, and within hours the tech said 1) complete rebuild or 2) full replacement with #2 being preferred. We went with #2.
We waited 5 weeks to drop $11k, and the truck was performing like new. The extended warranty service we got had told us to F off, hiding behind their determination we caused it when the tech showed their adjuster it couldn't have been us. The truck has been fine ever since and tows the 42' perfectly fine. Whatever the original owner did either through service neglect or beating on the thing somehow, he passed a 5-figure issue on to us.
But without a Ford cert'd tech and Ford equipment, let alone scheduling an appt at a Ford dealer to get it checked out when they were all backed up for weeks while diesel trucks were selling out almost faster than we could find one that could tow the weight, I don't know that any shop would've found the problem.
Btw, yeah your trans is shifting better since it's not trying to pump sludge... but replacing the fluid isn't going to replace the massive amounts of metal that were removed from the clutch surfaces and internal parts. Why do think your ATF looked like 15W40 with 15k on it? It was filled with metal particles that were eroded away from the inside of the trans, and the only way to fix that is with a full rebuild.
For the past year, I usually watch your videos. Two reasons, 1 I am a Ford man and 2 I am from the same area. I visited SWP back in November since one of my brothers was terminal. I drove past Burgettstown Ford a few times which you featured in your video from earlier. I think on the 14th of November my brother and I were driving up 79 in the construction zone for the south beltway and I think we passed you pulling a small trailer. I remember it was a Ford Superduty 4wd with a black trailer. We were heading north. I spent time in Burgettstown, 84, and Bethel Park.
After changing the fluid and filter, you need to do it again. I know that it cost a lot, but it will save the trans.
2000 Ford F-350 crew cab. V-10 6.8 20 valve. Bombproof with after market. Approximately, 300 horse power with after market improvements to cure design and manufacturing shortcomings and defects in the V-10. October 2020: Certified Transmission out of Omaha, Nebraska, Road Ripper 3000 (stage 3), 4R100 automatic transmission. DieselSite external transmission filter. Shift is firm, not harsh. Overbuilt for the V-10 but my chance of wearing it out in the 6 year/300,000 mile warranty is a low probability. It is a good match for your power output. Both front and rear axles rebuilt, Yukon TrueTrac in both axles, reduced in town use of 4wd for snow covered parking. Your transmission is done, get building.
Well here is my take on this, No one correctly realizes how important maintenance is, whether it’s stock or has some stuff done to it like this one you have to maintain your vehicle if you so that it will take care of you 86k is a long time to go with no trans fluid change that was your truck telling you it needs a change. Hopefully it holds up for you
Mercon LV is known to darken, but not to that level under normal circumstances.
6R140 is a tough transmission. I have a 1st run (early 2010 build date) that needed some solenoids replaced for a horrible 3-4 shift when cold, but was right back to 100% after that. Check your "band numbers" before changing solenoids.
The 80’s aerobics music was cracking me UP I’m the beginning 😆😆😆😆🤘🏻
Hmmm… now was it more 80’s aerobics or Miami Vice?🤔……
That trans is shot. If you have enough material in the filter to clog it its game over. Now you might be able to limp it along but I doubt it's got much time left. The whine you were hearing was from the pump struggling to pull fluid through the filter.
Don't forget you still have 8 or more quarts of that burnt fluid in there.
My 600 hp 2015 never had a hiccup. However my TCM tunes are awesome and I service the fluids every 25k. Just saying
Same issue I had with tunes I bought from you. Hard shifting, clutch slippage. Had to put it in stock. Reached out to the tuner and was told to just keep driving.
I've installed many tunes and I refuse to change the stock trans tune to aftermarket. None of these people know that trans better than Ford. I personally know the man who created the training content for the 6r140 that is taught around the world. The guy was absolutely brilliant. I wish he were still alive. When I first tuned my truck I called him and he said "tune the engine, not the trans" I trust his opinion, and have never had a problem. He was the smartest Ford trainer I ever met, and most of my training was in Dearborn, MI
@@hgffrank I agree however the tune I was sent was a hot tune for both trans and engine. I tried to get them to send me just engine but they never replied, still haven’t
@@hgffrank This is the main reason I have not tuned my 2015 6.7. If I could find a tune that did not mess with the transmission I would do it for sure. Can you recommend one?
@@martinsteflik1329 You can get one from Corey. But keep in mind these transmissions need a bit of time to learn. But after 300 miles, if it acts up ask for a revision
Did you try the transmission re-learn when you tuned the truck?
Literally just had this start happening on my 2017 F250, 75,000 miles. Getting the fluid changed tomorrow 😅
In general this is recommendation from me if you are driving your truck hard or if you are pushing your truck with heavy load transportation every week I recommend changing your transmission oil and filter if it has any also clean the transmission oil pan magnetic plate if it has any to maximize the transmission life. Do not go over 50k per service.
Believe it’s 150k under normal duty and 60k under severe duty. I could be wrong though.
Yep as already mentioned always do a 2nd drain and refill especially it the fluid was that bad. Can't get all of it out draining like that so needs a 2nd. I change at like 30k
Just changed my transmission fluid, and filter + both rear ends and transfer case at 78000, on the 2017 F350. Trans fluid was blackish red, I thought my fluid was dirty.
what are people doing to beef up their stock transmission after the deleted their diesel motors and adding tuners to increase horse power?
All car companies GIVE US BACK MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS!!!!
Zf6 please
Need a full fluid replacement along with the cooler and lines.
Then... do it again
There is no reason at all that that transmission is still working HOW!!!! Thanks for the update I was planning on changing my transmission fluid at 75,000 but I’m gonna go ahead and do it at 60,000
If you are starting to think you should really have that service done, it means you're 5-10k past the time the service is needed. Double that if it's towing regularly.
Low reverse clutch pack is smoked, I think that pack is engaged bellow 5mph and 3-4 if I remember right. I was running gdp banana smoothie tune and it smoothied the clutches right out of the truck in 14,000 miles
I would also change the rear diff fluid and make sure everything is good. Prob needs servicing anyways on your truck.
That magnet looked dirty but not bad. My 2011 with the gas engine had a little metal on it at the first service at 125k. New fluid and filter made it run 10 degrees cooler and shift a little better. But it's all stock and only makes 370hp.
Thanks for the video. I have the same truck, same hp, and same problem... Hopefully my problem goes away too. 🤞
I did service my own transmission at home once I lost warranty and I like doing stuff my self. So my transmission fluid came out red but also blackish red. Not bad if it’s got a little black to it but it should also be red. Your transmission was running in the red zone. The magnet for the metal debris is supposed to be less dirty than that.
fudge ford recommended anything lol great job , service it every 40k miles due to your high hp your beating the 6r140 its supposed to be smart but that thing is not the brightest apple. i do all my on services ,5k oil+filter change rottela t6 , 10k diff fluid change rear gets opened blasted with 6/7 bottles of brake cleaner and put back together and filled Valvoline gear fluid + ford friction modifier , swap intake manifold @ 50k thing gets crusty , grease u-joints every 5k green grease ,tranny fluid change + filter every 50k mottorcraft, i can keep going lol i just traded in my dually with 194.966 miles and that things was working amazing annoying hard shifts every 40k miles from 5/6 just did the change and gone for 40k miles .
That "weird sound" is cavitation in the pump due to thinned out (burnt) fluid. The reason it was slipping/delayed shifting is due to lack of conistant pressure on holding devices caused by the cavitating pump from thinned out/aerated fluid. The new fluid has now restored this, but the damage is done to the clutches. Slipping is slipping. Material has been lost...
Mine started doing that supercharger whine sound after I had a fluid changed at 40,000. It seems to only do it above half throttle and in the lower gears. Transmission shifts great if it’s driven carefully but any hard acceleration and it slips like a sumbish
I had bad tuning from a reputable shop “that everyone” uses and burned up a 2016 trans after 40,000 miles had to completely rebuild it. Also ive learned with these 6r140s theyre built really strong and very well but......the moment they start downshifting hard its a WRAP JACK...... yeah after tcm tunes they will upshift kinda ruff while youre on it but thats because of line pressures stuff like that once they start downshifting hard coming to a stop you need new frictions because yours are burnt to shit or just gone.... i went with warren diesels billet 6r140 with billet flexplate and its badass
We had a 2016 at regular power in an f550 at about 45000 miles the fluid was burnt and it delays going into reverse. All our other 2012 and 2011’s are fine. Don’t know why this one has developed a problem. Once ours shifts to reverse it’s fine just delayed. Tried reprogramming and resetting the adaptive learning. Helped a little but still there. Could you have had a restricted filter? If it was whining I would think restriction.
Pump was straining to move that fluid, he probably has a year left in her before it blows.
just bought a 2012 6.7 powerstroke, 152k miles, never had the transmission serviced and my fluid was no where close to that color
Just when I thought we were going to see some good transmission rebuild content. I hope it still happens. Your possibly lucky or just bought some time to order a complete rebuild kit.
Yes...you have a lot of that dirty fluid left throughout that transmission and the torque converter. Drive it around for a week or so and do another fluid and filter change.
I serviced my transmission myself at home. The magnet is not supposed to be that dirty and the fluid is supposed to be semi dirty. Not black like yours. Needs to have some red. U are very lucky it just needed some fluid.
I have exact same truck except it’s silver w/90 K miles and doing the same. Guess it’s time to change some fluid. Did pan gasket come with filter?
The Fluid should be Red , if not still not clean , can take 3 changes to get all the contamination out of the Transmission.
Changling Trans fluid is not like a engine oil change, there are many different factors that your dealing with in a transmission, friction confident, detergents and viscosity of the fluid , then the ware of the components manly the friction rings and steels in the clutch packs that control the power transfer inside the transmission, these clutches will ware out over time and leave materials in the transmission fluid that change the color and smell of the trans fluid. The transclutches on the truck my need to be checked they may start slipping. The fluid chang is just going to be a patch that will get you down the road for a time.
I have a 19” f350. Had the same issue. I didn’t have as much as you have done. But I lost 3-4 th gear. Ford wouldn’t warranty the work. Truck only had 48k miles on it
F'n A. Same exact gears as ours (2017). Ours would still drive, but the 3-4 shift was always different after someone pointed it out to us.
Ours crapped at ~76k (actually before that but it didn't show up as a problem until it was too late), and that was after a Ford-performed rebuild at 20k during someone else's ownership. Our aftermarket warranty company screwed us. Ford wouldn't cover a thing. $11k to get it back working normally.
Do the trans flush and avoid a rebuild. The dirty fluid still in trans and torque converter will mix and cause trouble in a couple months.
Sorry but the factory transmissions are set for factory HP! When you up the HP in the truck your transmission also needs to be beefed up. It’s only a very logical scenario.
Yes, but would you not use up the transmission first, then rebuild (stronger) when necessary? Of course hot rodding will shorten the life.
Our 2016 says 150K for the trans oil R&R I took it to Ford at 100K the tech said the oil was not even dirty. stock we tow 10K 2-3 times a yr
Right?? Everyone here seems to overdue everything service wise. Ford recommends 150k on 6 speeds 17+
Transmission pan magnet it’s normal to get that fine dust. Anything bigger is no bueno
Thanks man…. Guess im changing tm oil next week haha
I highly suggest this guy puts some hotshots secret transmission additive. If you can't properly maintain your diesels, you shouldn't own one!!! People like this don't clearly maintain their vehicles and then if it blew out, they will blame the brand.
Might want to replace rear diff fluid too. Just did mine after 77K. Pretty dark. 2017 F250 Deleted!
Fluid change (pan drain) every 30k and filter every 60k.
Perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain and fill. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. WARNING: High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush.
You said that already. No thanks.
Hello , I have a 2015 Ford f350 6.7 engine , and have a problems with a transmission every morning when the truck is cold , wnen I put Drive dont do nothing , I need wait like 10 minutes and then works I not sure if my trnsmission going?
If you save the old fluid that would send it off to get it burnt at Blackstone labs. I'm curious if you have any metal particles in there or it was just bad fluid
Did mine at 78k after buying the truck, will do another filter fluid service and 125k most likely
I do it about every 30k on my f150 since I tow often with it. Spending $100-$200 every 30k is worth it if you get more life out of the trans in my opinion
I have had similar issues with mine. Slams into P/R/N/D. Takes a while to shift into gear and shifts hard or late. Taken it to Ford multiple times and they have done nothing to fix it. Not sure what to do. Truck only gas 72k miles
Shocker. What did you expect to find ? Looks like more than 650 hp on stock Trans is bad !!! If you are smart you best change it again because you left a lot of bad fluid in the transmission. But it's your truck.
Exactly Correct! Change it again...again...again...again...and again....but still dirty ATF mixing with clean ATF. Actually best to perform a BG FLUSH on the transmission...that way all of the dirty ATF is removed from the transmission...pan, valve body and the torque converter and not mixing with the clean ATF after a simple drain. An ATF flush works great...if done early ...at 30,000 miles...then again at 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, etc. High Mileage transmissions can seize up within a few days after a flush.
What year did they stop putting drain plugs in the pan? 2019 and I don't have one... that's some bull.
Question on my 13’ 66mm non vgt did my last service about 28-30k miles ago starting to have a delay shift at wot driving around 60-65 smash on it on 2 lane highway to get around someone drops to 4th wont shift past until I let out? Was thinking it may be valve body but also used vavoline fluid? Herd bad things you think if I service filter and fluid with mercon lv it will correct the issue or you think valve body is bad? Or trans is going out?
WHAT DID YOU DOOOOOOO, that face 😭😭😭
Haha frank from revmax was just on diesel podcast saying how great the 10spd is on stock power BUT DO NOT ADD POWER!!!
I have revmax gear in my 6R it's great!
All auto transmissions i replace fluid and filter if equipped every 30k miles
The best way to maintain and service an automatic transmission is to perform a BG flush.....removes all of the dirty ATF, including the torque converter. The Drain and Fill method...not good because it leaves the dirty ATF in the torque converter to mix with the clean ATF.
CHECK OUT ------. BG Products and Equipment - Wichita Kansas. The company has been in business several decades and has a stellar reputation for products and equipment to properly maintain and service a vehicle.
So I got a 2019 f250 powerstroke about a week ago with 33k miles on it, it was a one owner. And when I put it into drive from park it lounges forward a bit but not hard, same thing with reverse but lounges backwards. It also seems a little sluggish on the shifts and you can feel the shifts, does the same thing when it downshifts while coasting to a stop, but I wouldn’t go so far as to say they are jerky. I was wondering if this is normal or if I need to have it looked at.
You just thinned the bad fluid with new fluid. Need to drain the transmission cooler and lines too.
Correct.......the "drain and fill" method mixes the dirty ATF from the torque converter with the clean ATF. The best way to maintain and service an automatic transmission is to perform a flush...removes all the dirty ATF.
Please change it again, just 1 change won't get everything out so do it again with the filter too
Change via "drain and fill....5 times within 3,000 to 5,000 miles....there will still be some dirty ATF mixed in with clean ATF. Granted the more times the ATF is changed, the more diluted the dirty ATF will be...small ratio with the clean ATF. The best method -------> Perfrom a BG flush....removes ALL of the dirty ATF from the transmission...including the torque converter. FLUSH every 30,000 miles.....clean ATF equals no thermal energy (heat energy). Heat is the death and destruction of engines, transmissions, tires, etc.
Any feedback on the 2020 ten speed transmission reliability?
Maybe you got lucky. But I would expect more problems. Especially when you put a load behind it. Good luck!
This had me laughing seriously!! I love the Ford Torque Shift Transmission
Is there any way to check the fluid level in the 2019 f250? Where is the dipstick?
So i have a 2018 6.7.
jus picked up fluid and filter to do my trans.
Wanted to verify the guys at napa sold me the correct fluid so watched this video.
They sold me Mercron V.
is that correct or should i have Mercron LV?
Thanks!
When I worked at Ford we recommend what the service manager said,120k highway miles or 90-100k mixed off-road/highway but if I knew someone had anything done to their rig where they made decent power I always recommended 70-80k. It’s cheap reassurance really.
And I’m talking for a full flush with filter. I’d drop the pan and put a new filter in every 40k personally. But definitely full flush every 80k but that’s my personal opinion
I change my 6r80 oil every 30,000 km,ford say 250000km till change the oil here in Australia
Built Ford Tough!! 😎🇺🇸🇺🇸
He beat the living daylights out of that truck and hotshotted it . I think it’s held up well. A Dodge 68RFE 2would have failed years ago , and Allison would have limped years ago and needed beefing up
🙄🙄
@@JohnDiMartino it doesn't matter everybody talks about these trans like they can handle 800hp all day long when really they cant.
@@JohnDiMartino my buddys got a 2012 ram 3500 380k miles with bigger turbo, bigger injectors hot tunes,trans tunes and it hotshot heavy loads the first 150k of its life, the rest is racing,daily and playing on the street. Trans dont miss a beat!
@@JohnDiMartino Exactly Correct. The Ford 6R140 is a better and stronger transmission than the Allison 1000 in Chevrolet and GMC trucks.
So the stock trans disnt handle 700+hp, wow cant imagine that.
It did tho
For some hard, hot rodded miles, too!
Should also change transfer case
Quick question, you running the tow/race tmc tune from SPE?
Have you ever heard or used pedal commander? i recently put one on my ford 2019 6.7 diesel and took out all the turbo lag
@Garrett Sheehan yeah but will depend on which sensitivity setting u put it on. On the highest setting a little gas and u will be smoking ur tires! I don’t like the turbo lag because I’m always pulling trailers so it was frustrating when going up hills and u give a little gas and nothing happened until u smashed the pedal to the floor.
@@brianrezarch7477 If you have a 6.7L...press on the accelerator.....gives more fuel...diesel fuel...NOT gasoline. Another good one....mechanics do not rebuild motors...they rebuild engines......because motors run on electricity and engines run on a combustible fuel...ignited by spark or heat.
@@15Jeep thanks for correcting my statement i don't know what we would do without youtube trolls like you....
Question for everyone, I got a 15' with 65k miles that's never been done and I wanna change the trans filter also but should I just do a drain and refill then drive it for about 100 miles or so.. THEN drop the pan completely and the filter..? That way I can get as much as the old fluid out ? Am I right ?? T.I.A
I have not watched the entire video. But are you running Dans transmission proprietary solenoid?
60k - fluid change
120k - fluid/ filter change
Then filter/ fluid change every 60k after that
When did FaZe Jev get into Diesel trucks?
Nice video man 💪
That's why I wouldn't add more horsepower to a truck if it wasn't designed from the factory to have it
I would change it one more time to get the rest of the gunk out.
Is this a 6 speed or 10 speed
My question is why was the fluid that dark after only 85-90k miles?
Probably because he beats the shit out of that truck. I've seen hundreds of Super Duties come to the shop that have huge service beds with Cranes and many had less that 30k and the fluid was garbage. Mileage has little to do with it. Operating temp is the primary destroyer of trans fluid.
@@hgffrank ok thanks for the info. That makes a lot of sense.
I would definitely flush again after 1000 miles and throw a bottle of Lucas trans oil in.
He did not flush......he did the "drain and fill".
I have MPD compound turbo on my 2017 6.7 powerstroke. I am getting the 3rd to 4th gear chirp in the transmission. I am looking for a good tuner to see if this will correct the issues. Anyone else having this problem? help!
As bad as your fluid was, know that you left about half of it in there. That trans holds almost 14qts and you got 8 of them. The rest of that poison is hiding in there... GET IT OUT by doing AT LEAST one more swap of fluid.
Better yet consider using a really good fluid like a Redline D6 or the like on your next swap then drive with confidence.
I have mine set to 35hp no restrictions
Woot woot 👍🏼🇺🇸
I'll tell you what you did wrong when you built the truck an if any of you all out there want to build a truck do what I did mine has everything done to it but a chip or tuner I have 01 Ford f250 Xlt 4x4 off road powerstroke diesel quad cab here is what I did I bought the truck with 86500 on it #8 piston was broke so I bought it an smoked really bad so I had it picked up an hauled home then did some research an found it had the piston problem well I couldn't get a new 7.3 an didn't want a used one so I had it rebuilt bored it 30 over bigger values an injectors then bigger fan in my turbo turned the pump up an put 355 pos gears front an back then changed speed sensor so it wouldn't burn yrans up oh itll fly but like I said everything's been done to it an the only step left is to chip or tune it but I think its just fine started in -10 not plugged in an it still only has 88700 on it clean no rust or tears in seats I passed up $36000.00 cash for it don't drive it in snow or salt love my fords I drive my 85 Ford f250 xl 4x4 351 Windsor an new trans with new trans cooler Hyden 10000 pound towing an shift kit its awesome strait pipes from mans to rear no collectors or converters either don't want to stand on it after 9 pm in town its loud but ill never buy a 6.0 6.4 or 6.7 to much an takes a lot to delete them you can delete a 6.7 Cummings cheaper an you can get up to a 1000 hp out of it look it up much better you can build a Duramax to check out Ivan's on Utube it smokes all over Dodge Viper .....but if you have a problem with you Powerstroke lok up Bill Hewitt Powerstroke Help . COM
Do it again in 1000 miles!!
Damn you got lucky 👌🏻. 150k on transmission service. It's says extreme conditions 60k hmm.
Hey, are you still filling orders on your website????
The factory has a shifty cooler i recommend installing a heavy duty remote cooler. On stock tunes and normal driving the temp will run around 230. Way too high for any trans to live.