Thanks For posting this. I changed my '06 TL's rack in my garage, on jackstands. Your tip about using the pry bar to get torque on the flare wrench worked great. No idea how I would have accomplished it otherwise.
Thanks for the great video. It was a TON of help on my nieces 2003. Not exact;y the same but at least gave me the steps. Anyone using this for the previous generation TL. Here's some hints: The steering column does not telescope, drop the rack to undo the U joint at the firewall. You have to remove the rear cradle bolts, and drop the middle and front bolts almost all the way out. And STILL have to pry it down. Crow foot wrenches are a MUST for the lines on the rack. BTW: I did this without a lift. It was a realm PITA, but it can be done without a lift.
FYI, if you disconnect the motor mounts from the frame (one near P/S pump, one above transmission - NOT the ones that attach motor to subframe) the whole motor/trans will drop with subframe. Just make sure the subframe is supported in the back. In my case I used floor jacks on both sides. No fighting the motor mounts or using pry bars... and screwing up the rigid powersteering lines on the rack itself - coming out or going in. Drop the subframe just enough and the rack comes right out. Also, if you take the air breather and strut tower brace (both quick and easy removals) assemblies out you can get to the power steering connections from the top. I used the Gearwrench (17mm and 19mm) flex flare nut wrenches and was able to loosen the nuts without too much fuss... they were very tight. Be careful. The shorty wrenches mentioned in this video are really worth the buy if you don't have any...
Hello, I enjoyed learning from this video, it really help me in replacing my rack and pinion on my 2007 Honda Accord. The removal of the both rear sub-frame bracket bolts, and using a pry bar to pry down on the sub-frame, then loosening of the front sub-frame bolts worked like a charm. Thank you very much, keep up the good work.
Could you check the condition of the rack and pinion etc while doing a power steering hose/ pump? Nicely done video, love the lighting and shots are so clear
the passenger side engine mount is what's holding up the engine to strut tower + the 2x middle cradle mounts. Rack gets destroyed by (exhaust high heat +) failed serpentine TENSIONER that surges the pump output pressure regulator.
the front and rear engine mounts are connected to the subframe. So you if you are trying to leave the engine in place while the subframe is dropped, then I would loosen the front and rear engine mounts and give the engine some support while you try to separate the engine from the subframe. If you do not support the engine when loosening the front and rear engine mounts, you can break the passenger side engine mount.. So, in general, if you want to separate the engine from the subframe, you have to think about where all the mounts are located and how the engine and trans gets it's support, and what you need to loosen to get the subframe to drop down from the engine without putting additional strain on 1 or another engine or trans mounts
STEVE ROB REVIEWS + so if you have no access to a hoist you will just give up then , a hoist make the job way easier and maybe safer but is not necessary is just about been lazy and we like to use the lack of a hoise as a excuse.
I have a quick question. I have a power steering leak, hose's are good but the leak is coming from the middle like middle of the subframe. Is that the power steering rack?
Do you have to or does it help to have a motor jack or whatever like do you need to mess with the motor mounts to drop this wondering if a mechanic is screwing with me
thanks for sharing. i have a question though for the tie rod on my tsx has a clip. should i remove the clip first then loosen or continue to turn it with it on?
How long did it take you guys? I'm doing it on the floor in my garage. I'm a 3rd year apprentice. So I know my way around. Took me 2 hours to take out and put back a rack in a 09 envoy. But that was on a hoist
Hello Brian, Thank you for posting this. I'm looking into this issue myself for my 05 TL. Hissing noise showed up when I turned my wheel all the way to the left or right. Besides replacing steering rack and pinion, any other places should i check before tackling this work?
Tam Duc Vu yes at the power steering pump The high-pressure hose going into the pump tends to get a bad oring and will suck air in the line making the Pump make noise. The funny thing is it does not leak fluid. The pump is very easy to get to it on top and it's only two 10mm bolts holding the hose into the pump, pot that out change out the oring filled it with Honda power steering fluid and go for a test drive.
thanks for your reply i had another question is the rack and pinion inner tie rods suppose to be stiff, then when you had the fluid they will move smoothly?, and do thr o rings go inside the fluid and pressure lines or on the piece that they connect to
I have this exact car, and I am getting a sort of creaking/ grinding sound when I turn the wheel. CV axle and tie rod end is new, the ball joints seem good, and the pop seems like its coming from more towards the center of the car, so I think it has to be the steering rack. I don't have the money to fork out for a shop, and want to to it myself, the only issue is not having a lift. Is this a job that is possible just using jack stands???
I have a new rack & pinion coming in this Thursday. Debating between attempting it with a friend or taking it to my mechanic who quoted me ~$500.. My friend and I are not mechanics but do some work on our cars (nothing super complicated though). My friend and I don't have access to a lift but have all the other tools. What do you think I should do?
Hello Joseph. What I would do is call some shops in your area and get a quote. Shop labor rates very here in San Diego. Rates go from 85 to 125 an hour. Online it looks like the parts are around $250 that includes the rack in the fluids. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Brian, I know it's been a while since you did this video, but do you remember having to remove the PS heat baffle plate located on the passenger side of the rack? It's listed in the repair manual, but didn't see it as one of the steps you followed and I'd gladly avoid it since it's a major PITA to get at the bolts holding it in. Thx!!
Spam Cop I believe I worked around it. It's one of those things if you think it would make you life easier by removing it then remove it. There no right or wrong way to do it.
@@HowtoAutomotive it seems like the leaking is come from the left side inner rod boot, so definitely I will check tomorrow, cause it's really dropping fluid on my pavement, which I hate lol, anyways thank you so much for your video sir...
Just replaced it on my 07 acura tsx. Now the SRS light and Red airbag light come on. The Cruise control and computer trip buttons on steering wheel are not working! Anyone know why? Thanks
It sounds like you possibly have a broken clock spring in the steering wheel. Or something came unplugged under the dash. I would start by having the codes pulled and going back over your work.
I recently hit a curb in the snow with my 2005 Acura TL. Turned right into a small road at 15-20km/h and all the impact slammed into my left driver wheel. I need to get the entire suspension replaced on the left driver side but something strange also happened with my Power steering pump. I jacked up the car when I got home and turned the steering from one side to the other. I can hear gushing sounds from my car and my brother told me that fluid was leaking out the top of the cap. (With the cap ON) After a while, the liquid stopped leaking and when I checked the levels, it was exactly on the "upper" mark with the steering straight. What exactly happened here? My steering feels a bit looser. Easier to turn the wheel. Feels like a new hyundai santa fe in comfort steering mode but I know it should be like that lol. Thanks in advance,
Yu Studios sorry to hear you banged up your Acura . It's possible the steering rack was damaged. Most likely there's bent parts on the drivers side and the alignment is way off giving it that loose feeling. I would repair the bent parts first and recheck how it feels.
Thanks dude, I replaced the entire suspension on the bumped side. It's driving much better. There hasn't been any leaks in the power steering pump. Just the gushing out of the cap when i first bumped it. Good news is, the steering is good! Steering is now a little bit slanted compared to a lot before replacing the suspension. Bad news is, we found out my subframe has a small crack...May have to replace my subframe. $$$$$$$$$
How to Automotive Yeah, I had a question also. I changed all 4 of my rims to my second set of all seasons since one of the rims on my last set were bent. I'm planning to replace the tires on the second set rims. Should I do the alignment now? (With the old tires on) or should I wait until I get my new winter tires installed? My car's steering is much better now. I can whip the car into corners and I feel pretty confident. It's just the car is ever so slightly steering to the right. (I need to turn the steering at about 10 degrees left to go straight compared to 70-80 degrees before the suspension replacement.
Could you check the condition of the rack and pinion etc while doing a power steering hose/ pump? Nicely done video, love the lighting and shots are so clear
Thanks For posting this. I changed my '06 TL's rack in my garage, on jackstands. Your tip about using the pry bar to get torque on the flare wrench worked great. No idea how I would have accomplished it otherwise.
WrenchingPilot that's awesome! That's A tough job on jackstands. Glad the video helped. Thank you for watching and writing!
WrenchingPilot what did you use to support the transmission when you did this on jack stands?
@@spumonicapicola8333 you can use a pump jack.
Thanks for the great video. It was a TON of help on my nieces 2003. Not exact;y the same but at least gave me the steps.
Anyone using this for the previous generation TL. Here's some hints:
The steering column does not telescope, drop the rack to undo the U joint at the firewall.
You have to remove the rear cradle bolts, and drop the middle and front bolts almost all the way out. And STILL have to pry it down.
Crow foot wrenches are a MUST for the lines on the rack.
BTW: I did this without a lift. It was a realm PITA, but it can be done without a lift.
mike g glad the video helped. Thank you for the tips and thank you for watching!
FYI, if you disconnect the motor mounts from the frame (one near P/S pump, one above transmission - NOT the ones that attach motor to subframe) the whole motor/trans will drop with subframe. Just make sure the subframe is supported in the back. In my case I used floor jacks on both sides. No fighting the motor mounts or using pry bars... and screwing up the rigid powersteering lines on the rack itself - coming out or going in. Drop the subframe just enough and the rack comes right out. Also, if you take the air breather and strut tower brace (both quick and easy removals) assemblies out you can get to the power steering connections from the top. I used the Gearwrench (17mm and 19mm) flex flare nut wrenches and was able to loosen the nuts without too much fuss... they were very tight. Be careful. The shorty wrenches mentioned in this video are really worth the buy if you don't have any...
This is a 100% more logical and sensible way to do this job rather than what is shown in this video.
Thanks or this video. It just confirms my original idea that I'll be bringing this insane job to my local repair shop!
I got quoted $1200 to get mine done 😭😭😭
It's a mongo pain in the ass but it can be done. I'm too broke to take my car in so I do everything myself.
Hahahaha I had the same reaction watching this... beyond my home-garage pay grade for sure lmao
Yes, Hondas are sooo easy to work on, & so reliable that these racks fail on 3rd gen TL's with less than 100k mi. Cool.
Hello, I enjoyed learning from this video, it really help me in replacing my rack and pinion on my 2007 Honda Accord. The removal of the both rear sub-frame bracket bolts, and using a pry bar to pry down on the sub-frame, then loosening of the
front sub-frame bolts worked like a charm. Thank you very much, keep up the good work.
Just got rack out 5 min ago. It wasn't that bad. Thanks for precise instructions FTW!
1trucavalier Glad to help. Thank you for watching!!
Thanks for sharing and adding value to TH-cam! I need mine replaced In my 07 tl.
Thank you!
Looks like a common problem on those cars, good thing I bought a warranty that coverd it
Could you check the condition of the rack and pinion etc while doing a power steering hose/ pump? Nicely done video, love the lighting and shots are so clear
the passenger side engine mount is what's holding up the engine to strut tower + the 2x middle cradle mounts.
Rack gets destroyed by (exhaust high heat +) failed serpentine TENSIONER that surges the pump output pressure regulator.
Indeed, the heat soak in these cars is laughable. The design architecture of these 3rd gens is face-slapping stupid.
Thanks for the posting, easy to follow along with your instructions. How long did it take for you pros to do this?
the front and rear engine mounts are connected to the subframe. So you if you are trying to leave the engine in place while the subframe is dropped, then I would loosen the front and rear engine mounts and give the engine some support while you try to separate the engine from the subframe. If you do not support the engine when loosening the front and rear engine mounts, you can break the passenger side engine mount.. So, in general, if you want to separate the engine from the subframe, you have to think about where all the mounts are located and how the engine and trans gets it's support, and what you need to loosen to get the subframe to drop down from the engine without putting additional strain on 1 or another engine or trans mounts
Doing this now ugh stuck doing it alone for now. Having issues with the flare nut on the pressure line of the steering gear. And one mounting bolt
Now that's a job for a hoist, not sure I'd want to do it on Jack stands. 👍👍
Yeah doing it on jackstands will be really tough.
STEVE ROB REVIEWS + so if you have no access to a hoist you will just give up then , a hoist make the job way easier and maybe safer but is not necessary is just about been lazy and we like to use the lack of a hoise as a excuse.
I have a quick question. I have a power steering leak, hose's are good but the leak is coming from the middle like middle of the subframe. Is that the power steering rack?
is the power steering rack the same for v6 6 speed transmission?
Yes
Do you have to or does it help to have a motor jack or whatever like do you need to mess with the motor mounts to drop this wondering if a mechanic is screwing with me
thanks for sharing. i have a question though for the tie rod on my tsx has a clip. should i remove the clip first then loosen or continue to turn it with it on?
Joel Elizondo it's hard to say without seeing your clip you're talking about. But you can always remove it and put it back on just to be safe.
How long did it take you guys? I'm doing it on the floor in my garage. I'm a 3rd year apprentice. So I know my way around. Took me 2 hours to take out and put back a rack in a 09 envoy. But that was on a hoist
Hello Brian, Thank you for posting this. I'm looking into this issue myself for my 05 TL. Hissing noise showed up when I turned my wheel all the way to the left or right. Besides replacing steering rack and pinion, any other places should i check before tackling this work?
Tam Duc Vu yes at the power steering pump The high-pressure hose going into the pump tends to get a bad oring and will suck air in the line making the Pump make noise. The funny thing is it does not leak fluid. The pump is very easy to get to it on top and it's only two 10mm bolts holding the hose into the pump, pot that out change out the oring filled it with Honda power steering fluid and go for a test drive.
Thank you Brian. I'll go ahead and buy the O-Ring. Will update you on how this will go.
Tam Duc Vu that be cool if it fixes it on the cheap.
Hello did it work?
Brian, thanks for the video, just wondering if this is the same rack on my 2000 RL?
Novel X not sure if the parts are the same but The procedure is pretty much the same.
thanks for your reply i had another question is the rack and pinion inner tie rods suppose to be stiff, then when you had the fluid they will move smoothly?, and do thr o rings go inside the fluid and pressure lines or on the piece that they connect to
Joel Elizondo The O-rings go on the lines. And the stiffer tie rods is normal.
How to Automotive awesome thanks man! you cleared up all the issues i had.
I'm having trouble screwing the powersteering hydraulic lines back on... :( any suggestions? 06 TSX
James Ferguson some times it easier to get them from the top of the engine.
I have this exact car, and I am getting a sort of creaking/ grinding sound when I turn the wheel. CV axle and tie rod end is new, the ball joints seem good, and the pop seems like its coming from more towards the center of the car, so I think it has to be the steering rack. I don't have the money to fork out for a shop, and want to to it myself, the only issue is not having a lift. Is this a job that is possible just using jack stands???
beefcake3131 this would be a very difficult job to do without a rack.
Damn, okay thanks for the reply.
Is aftermarket good for this repair? Or should I purchase the part from a dealer?
Our shop has had good luck with aftermarket rack and pinion‘s.
is this the same setup for a tsx? asking because of the rear motor mount not sure if that has to be loosened.
It will be very similar. I would try to remove it without loosening the mail first but if you can't get it out and losing it.
I have a new rack & pinion coming in this Thursday. Debating between attempting it with a friend or taking it to my mechanic who quoted me ~$500.. My friend and I are not mechanics but do some work on our cars (nothing super complicated though). My friend and I don't have access to a lift but have all the other tools. What do you think I should do?
Jason Kim with two of you I think you guys can handle it.
how much for this type of job i need this done
Hello Joseph. What I would do is call some shops in your area and get a quote. Shop labor rates very here in San Diego. Rates go from 85 to 125 an hour. Online it looks like the parts are around $250 that includes the rack in the fluids. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Thanks
How much does this repair cost?
Brian, I know it's been a while since you did this video, but do you remember having to remove the PS heat baffle plate located on the passenger side of the rack? It's listed in the repair manual, but didn't see it as one of the steps you followed and I'd gladly avoid it since it's a major PITA to get at the bolts holding it in. Thx!!
Spam Cop I believe I worked around it. It's one of those things if you think it would make you life easier by removing it then remove it. There no right or wrong way to do it.
Thank you 🙏🏾.
very good video thank you so much,
Mine is leaking also, that means the only way to fix to replace it right???
GSHeverything _27 unless it’s a hose. Then you can replace it separately
@@HowtoAutomotive it seems like the leaking is come from the left side inner rod boot, so definitely I will check tomorrow, cause it's really dropping fluid on my pavement, which I hate lol, anyways thank you so much for your video sir...
GSHeverything _27 sorry your car is leaking. Hopefully you get it fixed up soon. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive you're welcome sir
Just replaced it on my 07 acura tsx. Now the SRS light and Red airbag light come on. The Cruise control and computer trip buttons on steering wheel are not working! Anyone know why? Thanks
It sounds like you possibly have a broken clock spring in the steering wheel. Or something came unplugged under the dash. I would start by having the codes pulled and going back over your work.
+How to Automotive thanks. the horn does not work neither. More likely its the clockspring.
+Troy Truong Troy it sounds like the clockspring
SO PAY SOMEONE ON THIS ONE....
YoLoui I’ll do it for you if you in the Encinitas California area
I recently hit a curb in the snow with my 2005 Acura TL. Turned right into a small road at 15-20km/h and all the impact slammed into my left driver wheel. I need to get the entire suspension replaced on the left driver side but something strange also happened with my Power steering pump.
I jacked up the car when I got home and turned the steering from one side to the other. I can hear gushing sounds from my car and my brother told me that fluid was leaking out the top of the cap. (With the cap ON)
After a while, the liquid stopped leaking and when I checked the levels, it was exactly on the "upper" mark with the steering straight. What exactly happened here? My steering feels a bit looser. Easier to turn the wheel. Feels like a new hyundai santa fe in comfort steering mode but I know it should be like that lol.
Thanks in advance,
Yu Studios sorry to hear you banged up your Acura . It's possible the steering rack was damaged. Most likely there's bent parts on the drivers side and the alignment is way off giving it that loose feeling. I would repair the bent parts first and recheck how it feels.
Thanks dude, I replaced the entire suspension on the bumped side. It's driving much better. There hasn't been any leaks in the power steering pump. Just the gushing out of the cap when i first bumped it.
Good news is, the steering is good! Steering is now a little bit slanted compared to a lot before replacing the suspension.
Bad news is, we found out my subframe has a small crack...May have to replace my subframe. $$$$$$$$$
Yu Studios wow sorry to hear about the subframe. But I'm glad it's running better. Thank you for updating me with the progress that's very cool.
Yu Studios now you can probably take it to a shop and have the alignment done.
How to Automotive Yeah, I had a question also. I changed all 4 of my rims to my second set of all seasons since one of the rims on my last set were bent.
I'm planning to replace the tires on the second set rims. Should I do the alignment now? (With the old tires on) or should I wait until I get my new winter tires installed?
My car's steering is much better now. I can whip the car into corners and I feel pretty confident. It's just the car is ever so slightly steering to the right. (I need to turn the steering at about 10 degrees left to go straight compared to 70-80 degrees before the suspension replacement.
This is rong idea i think
Could you check the condition of the rack and pinion etc while doing a power steering hose/ pump? Nicely done video, love the lighting and shots are so clear