Here is a good trick for keeping the rotor from seizing to the wheel bearing. On the backside of the rotor (old or new) between the lug holes brush on some anti-seize. Do the same between the lugs on the wheel bearing. I also apply anti-seize to the front of the rotor between the lug holes and the backside of the tire rim between the lug holes. Both anti-seize technique prevents the opposing surface from adhering to each other. No more banging on the tire to loosen it from the rotor and no more hammering, putting in screws or placing a pulley on the rotor to remove it from the wheel bearing. I have been doing this for years with great success.
Great video. Thanks. 2 things: 1. For me, Using a punch to free the crimped axle nut just resulted in that distorted part mangling the threads of the axle as i took it off. I was more careful on the other axle, but still stripped the threads from that hangnail on the nut. 2. To free the hub I just put a punch through the 14mm bolt holes from the backside and took turns smacking the punch against the lug stud plate. It broke loose pretty quickly.
Great video, very helpful and straightforward. I had to use a puller to get the hub off of the spindle though. Between the road salt up north and the salty air down here in SoFlo, this truck has lived a hard life.
I gotta laugh at the condition of this one. Absolutely perfect and flawless bolt removal every time. Try doing this on a 10-15 year old car in the North Atlantic!
Did you utilize OEM bearings? If not, is there an aftermarket I can trust to be as good or better than genuine Toyota? 2011 Venza AWD. Also, love to know the brand/model of that slam hammer. Thanks
Thanks for the video! I want to replace the CV axle at the same time. Would you have to follow this procedure then do the axle or do the axle first or neither (another way)?
Great video, however I can not get on those 14mm bolts on the back side. Maybe my sockets are fat or something but there is not enough room back there to let the socket seat on the bolt head. This is why I looked up a video, of course he just puts his socket on no prob... ugh!!! Thanks tho, the bolt in the rotor was a nice tip!
I have yet to find a non-OEM rotor that didn’t warp very quickly vs Toyota OEM that seem to last for many years, warp free. Can you comment on close to OEM or better rotor brand(s)?
I just watched another vid on the same job and thought nope that's too hard. Watched this vid and think not a problem. Great vid. My Rav is 2014 in Australia, Will it be the same do you think?
I like your videos, very knowledgeable, However i noticed in your video you suggested not to get anti seize on your pads and then when you installed the hub your anti seized covered gloves touched the pads anyway... Might be good next time to wipe of thy gloves to prevent contamination.. Otherwise great vid :)
+backcountry amateur radio Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
+BarnAgain1 Thanks for checking us out! Yes, this video is specific for the 4WD applications however we do carry the correct bearings for your 2WD application, the part number for these is 1ASHS00954. You can follow this link to find them on the website www.1aauto.com/search?q=1ASHS00954
+Peter Pan Sometimes we video a repair or replacement to show our customers how to do it even if it isn't necessary in that specific vehicle at the time. Thanks for watching.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Here is a good trick for keeping the rotor from seizing to the wheel bearing. On the backside of the rotor (old or new) between the lug holes brush on some anti-seize. Do the same between the lugs on the wheel bearing. I also apply anti-seize to the front of the rotor between the lug holes and the backside of the tire rim between the lug holes. Both anti-seize technique prevents the opposing surface from adhering to each other. No more banging on the tire to loosen it from the rotor and no more hammering, putting in screws or placing a pulley on the rotor to remove it from the wheel bearing. I have been doing this for years with great success.
+teddymac Thanks for the tip!
Class act great mechanic impressive to watch, I was a mechanic for 45 years and appreciate watching a good mechanic work
Great video. Thanks. 2 things:
1. For me, Using a punch to free the crimped axle nut just resulted in that distorted part mangling the threads of the axle as i took it off. I was more careful on the other axle, but still stripped the threads from that hangnail on the nut.
2. To free the hub I just put a punch through the 14mm bolt holes from the backside and took turns smacking the punch against the lug stud plate. It broke loose pretty quickly.
Great video, very helpful and straightforward. I had to use a puller to get the hub off of the spindle though. Between the road salt up north and the salty air down here in SoFlo, this truck has lived a hard life.
You guys have the best how to videos around. The step by step and instructions are fantastic. Thanks for the video
+Blondie The Builder Thanks for checking us out!
I gotta laugh at the condition of this one. Absolutely perfect and flawless bolt removal every time. Try doing this on a 10-15 year old car in the North Atlantic!
If you ever need another RAV4 to work on and make awesome videos I'll be happy to drive to you
you are amazing , you can easily be a Teacher its really easy to understand the way you explain it, thank you very much.
What’s the size of the threads on the bolt you used to get the rotor off?
4 warning lights came on after this replacement as well as the cruise control now doesnt work. Any ideas? ( ABS, Brake, 4WD and trac lights.)
Did you utilize OEM bearings? If not, is there an aftermarket I can trust to be as good or better than genuine Toyota? 2011 Venza AWD. Also, love to know the brand/model of that slam hammer. Thanks
You had used a screws just for help in remove the first drum, what's the size for this one?
Thanks for not mentioning the bolt thread pitch to remove the brake rotor
So what is the noise you might expect to hear when the bearing is going bad please? Thanks, Brian
An excellent presentation on the works performed. Thank You😊
Thanks for the video! I want to replace the CV axle at the same time. Would you have to follow this procedure then do the axle or do the axle first or neither (another way)?
Wow....amazing video. Great detail and explanation!!! Made the job so easy.
+David Lovisa Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but Why would you need to replace the hub?
The hub/bearings are one assembly.
Nice video I think I can look at this video and change mine thanks for the video!!!!💯
Great video, however I can not get on those 14mm bolts on the back side. Maybe my sockets are fat or something but there is not enough room back there to let the socket seat on the bolt head. This is why I looked up a video, of course he just puts his socket on no prob... ugh!!! Thanks tho, the bolt in the rotor was a nice tip!
Great video! Excellent detailed work👍
I have yet to find a non-OEM rotor that didn’t warp very quickly vs Toyota OEM that seem to last for many years, warp free. Can you comment on close to OEM or better rotor brand(s)?
Excellent… great how to visit. Thanks a million!
How do you get the wire harness off its clipped on can’t find the release?
Excellent video!
how much time does this job take?
This is only relevant for 4WD models, rear wheel bearing for the FWD model will be a little different.
Very professional work excellent job i lake the way you work tyvm
Excellent video.. Lakewood NJ Toyota wants 1K. to do just 1 rear side bearing.... smh.
how did you know the bearings needed to be replace??....did you hear a particular sound??
I just watched another vid on the same job and thought nope that's too hard. Watched this vid and think not a problem. Great vid. My Rav is 2014 in Australia, Will it be the same do you think?
I like your videos, very knowledgeable, However i noticed in your video you suggested not to get anti seize on your pads and then when you installed the hub your anti seized covered gloves touched the pads anyway... Might be good next time to wipe of thy gloves to prevent contamination.. Otherwise great vid :)
+@rusty7445 Thanks for the feedback!
With a vehicle like this I feel it would be a good idea to change both sides. This is just my opinion.
Nice job
Thanks!
Excellent guide. Thank you.
+Sean Collier Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very good video. Thank you. I’ll be ordering some stuff from you guys!
+backcountry amateur radio Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Is this a 4WD Rav4?
Had to look closely to see the drive shaft, yes 4WD. Mine is only 2WD so I need a different part #.
+BarnAgain1 Thanks for checking us out! Yes, this video is specific for the 4WD applications however we do carry the correct bearings for your 2WD application, the part number for these is 1ASHS00954. You can follow this link to find them on the website www.1aauto.com/search?q=1ASHS00954
This video is great.. Although... my new one is not going on so easy!?!!?!?
159 foot-pounds is for the rear, not the front. It is 216 foot-pounds for the front.
Great job!!!!!
thank you
+Tamrat Shaga Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi ok thank 2 you
I had to mute the sound and use closed caption due to the annoying background music. What is the point of the music???
Get a slide hammer, even if you rent one. I tried it without and literally half the time was spent trying to get that hub off.
Looks relatively easy to do. I'm guessing that if I brought it to a shop they would charge me for 1 hour of labor? 😅😅😅
Sensor broke, sick. I love the rust belt, man what the hell🤬
It was a good video but it looked like front bearings to me
There is no axle nut on mine
Why was the brake pads and rotors replaced when they looked alright still?!?
+Peter Pan Sometimes we video a repair or replacement to show our customers how to do it even if it isn't necessary in that specific vehicle at the time. Thanks for watching.
Doing it to my ruv 4 tomorrow ; the cheapest place I found's charging 1300.00 for both rear ones 😳
A lot easier than the front bearings.
+TigerKitty 2 Thanks for the feedback!
Well done great video. Get yourself some knee pads.
+Michael Thanks for the feedback!
I was like #666