Heads up guys, the updated composite or teflon seals will still wear out the cam ledges. This happened on my clients 2011 1M with 117k miles. He was having intake VANOS faults and we found both the intake and exhaust cam ledges with deep grooves and he had the updated seals from the factory. The teflon seals do lessen the wear but it'll take some time for that to happen.
One test to do is put the seal in place with out the cam and mimic the pressure with c clamp. The seal should be snug with some pressure, if not the groove in the tray is no good.
@@dirtykurty92 I tried it like 3 times on some builds and they all turned out good. Single turbo levels. Just put the new upgraded seals so it won’t dig anymore.
How many km on this engine? Am about to pull mine apart and replace a leaking valve stem seal and wondering If I should do new cams new cam caps new composite cam ledges new valve springs new lifters and rollers and retainers and retaining clips aswell while I'm at it. Mine has 150,000km on it and its unknown how much wear is all of it....
My engine has around 127,000 miles so over 204,000km. It really depends if you have wear on the cam ledges weather you should replace them or not, your looking at around 1100$ usd to replace both with new off fcp euro. 1000$ EACH for new cams.. I would say same goes for the lifters and roller rockers, inspected for damage and replace as needed. For 24 lifters your going to spend almost 300$ and for 24 rocker arms your going to spend almost 400$, for 24 springs almost another 400$... I’m a fan of if it isn’t broken don’t fix it. Between tools and bolts and seals your going to be in almost 5000$ if you replace everything with new and to me that’s not really justified if nothing is wrong with the parts now
I would replace all the valve seals, replace the cam seals with the composite ones(need 4), new cam gear bolt(need 2), intake manifold gasket, and valve cover and oil filter housing gasket if it has not been done recently. Timing chain tensioner comes out so can be replaced at this time too. New oil, filter and coolant.
@@dirtykurty92it's worth noting the oil cooler line o-rings (assuming one has an oil cooler) should be replaced when doing the OFHG, as well as the oil cooler thermostat housing gasket (all of this comes in the OFHG Kit from FCP Euro). Also worth mentioning in case a real newbie is about to go shopping online ahead of doing this work: the intake manifold gasket is actually 6 gaskets; removing it means removing the throttle body, in which case one should replace the throttle body gasket as well. That all said, none of this is really a significant overlap in terms of work with the valve cover gasket job or the cam ledge seals. Do the VC, cam ledge seals, and maybe toss in a new PCV valve if you want to be extra preventive, and plan that as one job. The OFHG, intake manifold, and oil cooler line/thermostat o-rings and seals, etc. should all be planned as a separate job. You don't want any one project to be too daunting or too drawn out or you will lose interest or time or money, and/or lose parts, etc. Doing the OFHG gasket and the rest is also a great time to also walnut blast your intake valves, but that does require: 1.) a special adapter to fit the intake ports (~$60 for the aluminum one, which is worth it. You can resell it later if desired), 2.) a media blaster; incl tank, wand, regulator, and hose (~$140 from FCP Euro) 3.) a suitable air compressor (shitty pancake compressor isn't gonna be fun--I have a 26 gallon, 4.5 SCFM (@90psi) compressor and anything less would have been really annoying) 4.) A shop vac to attach to your adapter for re-collecting walnut media as you spray it 5.) Some medium walnut media (cheapest I found was Home Depot store pickup 25 lbs for $25) and optionally, also: **A set of stainless steel dental picks for scraping big chunks off **A remote starter button to attach to the starter for turning the engine over to get valves fully closed before starting each cylinder ($10-15 at auto parts store or Amazon)
Well that depends what your plan for the vehicle is, if your just trying to get it going again cheap as possible, yes you can replace just one side, but we’ll it’s apart your so close to that other cam seal, I’d suggest replacing well it is apart
@@dirtykurty92 thanks for the answer. The insight cam trail i will replace with used cam Trail + seals. With the other output, the "good one" i will replace the cam seals only too.
If the seals are bad will This cause the car to go into limp mode right away and give codes intake camshaft installation faulty? And exhaust camshaft installation faulty ?
To me that sounds like the is an issue with the actual timing. So crank shaft relative to cam shafts . it was not properly set, or something happened to cause the engine to fall out of timing. Was there something that happened before the code turned on?
@@dirtykurty92 yeah my car was out of timming, re timed the the intake camshaft it was off checked my timing chain was not stretched. So the only thing they replaced was my Srpockets and phasers, they also checked my crank hub and said it was good they also too the cover twice to make sure it was in time and yeah but keep getting those codes
Hey bro I have a question, so long story short I have these new seals I already put them on my camshafts , I haven’t installed them yet though because I just bought another set of camshafts with ledge trays for a good deal with lower miles and better condition , now what I’m trying to do is take them back off my older cams all 4 seals and put them on the cams I just bought , that’s ok right?? Don’t wanna over stretch the seals you know .. thanks in advance man I know it’s a confusing question but since I’m already here I wanna make sure , or do I have to re order them 😢
@boost7236 honestly I’ve never tried to remove them after I installed them, if it was me, I would try to remove them, and see if they look damaged or stretched out, if they are questionable I would just buy new ones, but I would try to save them first!
@@dirtykurty92 bro thank you for the reply man , yes bro I’m literally in the process of doing my trays and cams along with timing chain crank hub all that , so I did just take one back out and it kind of looks good but kind of doesn’t really hard to tell honestly
@@dirtykurty92 bro your reply’s mean a lot !! Thanks again honestly top of my head of course that’s what I been thinking the while time but the fact that I didn’t wanna wait any longer !!! But better safe then sorry bro and I hope once I put everything back as accurate as possible the car is good
Hmmm interesting, so sounds like a vanos issue potential, start by making sure you have enough and good oil in your engine, if that is good test the vanos solenoids, maybe check your vanos oil screens. If you took your timing apart making sure your cams are in time is very important.
I removed the Crank hub by mistake I found screw head in the oil pan, I buy timing tools new vanos solenoides, ow20 i'm thinking to put 5w40 and reprogram The vanos solenoides
The music with the slow concentrated voice🤣🤣🤣
Thank you thank you
It's like ASMR haha, good video man but I'm now tired FML. 🤣
Heads up guys, the updated composite or teflon seals will still wear out the cam ledges. This happened on my clients 2011 1M with 117k miles. He was having intake VANOS faults and we found both the intake and exhaust cam ledges with deep grooves and he had the updated seals from the factory. The teflon seals do lessen the wear but it'll take some time for that to happen.
Wow! Thank you for the update
One test to do is put the seal in place with out the cam and mimic the pressure with c clamp. The seal should be snug with some pressure, if not the groove in the tray is no good.
Good idea never thought of that!
@@dirtykurty92 I tried it like 3 times on some builds and they all turned out good. Single turbo levels. Just put the new upgraded seals so it won’t dig anymore.
true i’ve read the upgrade seals are thicker and doesn’t grind up your trays like the old ones are intentionally made to do.
How many km on this engine? Am about to pull mine apart and replace a leaking valve stem seal and wondering If I should do new cams new cam caps new composite cam ledges new valve springs new lifters and rollers and retainers and retaining clips aswell while I'm at it. Mine has 150,000km on it and its unknown how much wear is all of it....
My engine has around 127,000 miles so over 204,000km. It really depends if you have wear on the cam ledges weather you should replace them or not, your looking at around 1100$ usd to replace both with new off fcp euro. 1000$ EACH for new cams.. I would say same goes for the lifters and roller rockers, inspected for damage and replace as needed. For 24 lifters your going to spend almost 300$ and for 24 rocker arms your going to spend almost 400$, for 24 springs almost another 400$... I’m a fan of if it isn’t broken don’t fix it. Between tools and bolts and seals your going to be in almost 5000$ if you replace everything with new and to me that’s not really justified if nothing is wrong with the parts now
I would replace all the valve seals, replace the cam seals with the composite ones(need 4), new cam gear bolt(need 2), intake manifold gasket, and valve cover and oil filter housing gasket if it has not been done recently. Timing chain tensioner comes out so can be replaced at this time too. New oil, filter and coolant.
@@dirtykurty92it's worth noting the oil cooler line o-rings (assuming one has an oil cooler) should be replaced when doing the OFHG, as well as the oil cooler thermostat housing gasket (all of this comes in the OFHG Kit from FCP Euro).
Also worth mentioning in case a real newbie is about to go shopping online ahead of doing this work: the intake manifold gasket is actually 6 gaskets; removing it means removing the throttle body, in which case one should replace the throttle body gasket as well.
That all said, none of this is really a significant overlap in terms of work with the valve cover gasket job or the cam ledge seals. Do the VC, cam ledge seals, and maybe toss in a new PCV valve if you want to be extra preventive, and plan that as one job.
The OFHG, intake manifold, and oil cooler line/thermostat o-rings and seals, etc. should all be planned as a separate job. You don't want any one project to be too daunting or too drawn out or you will lose interest or time or money, and/or lose parts, etc. Doing the OFHG gasket and the rest is also a great time to also walnut blast your intake valves, but that does require:
1.) a special adapter to fit the intake ports (~$60 for the aluminum one, which is worth it. You can resell it later if desired),
2.) a media blaster; incl tank, wand, regulator, and hose (~$140 from FCP Euro)
3.) a suitable air compressor (shitty pancake compressor isn't gonna be fun--I have a 26 gallon, 4.5 SCFM (@90psi) compressor and anything less would have been really annoying)
4.) A shop vac to attach to your adapter for re-collecting walnut media as you spray it
5.) Some medium walnut media (cheapest I found was Home Depot store pickup 25 lbs for $25)
and optionally, also:
**A set of stainless steel dental picks for scraping big chunks off
**A remote starter button to attach to the starter for turning the engine over to get valves fully closed before starting each cylinder ($10-15 at auto parts store or Amazon)
Is it enough when i replace only the input cam seals? Because i got only vanos failure with this side, not with the exhaust.
Well that depends what your plan for the vehicle is, if your just trying to get it going again cheap as possible, yes you can replace just one side, but we’ll it’s apart your so close to that other cam seal, I’d suggest replacing well it is apart
@@dirtykurty92 thanks for the answer. The insight cam trail i will replace with used cam Trail + seals. With the other output, the "good one" i will replace the cam seals only too.
Good luck with your repair!
hi dirtykurty. Can i use tradational rubber or silicon o ring instead teflon oring for camshaft?
Definitely not
If the seals are bad will This cause the car to go into limp mode right away and give codes intake camshaft installation faulty? And exhaust camshaft installation faulty ?
To me that sounds like the is an issue with the actual timing. So crank shaft relative to cam shafts . it was not properly set, or something happened to cause the engine to fall out of timing. Was there something that happened before the code turned on?
@@dirtykurty92 yeah my car was out of timming, re timed the the intake camshaft it was off checked my timing chain was not stretched. So the only thing they replaced was my Srpockets and phasers, they also checked my crank hub and said it was good they also too the cover twice to make sure it was in time and yeah but keep getting those codes
Hi Dirty Kurty, where can I get N54 camshaft ledge composite seals please?
Fcp euro
Where can i buy these composite cam seals?
I buy most of my oem parts from www.fcpeuro.com
Hey bro I have a question, so long story short I have these new seals I already put them on my camshafts , I haven’t installed them yet though because I just bought another set of camshafts with ledge trays for a good deal with lower miles and better condition , now what I’m trying to do is take them back off my older cams all 4 seals and put them on the cams I just bought , that’s ok right?? Don’t wanna over stretch the seals you know .. thanks in advance man I know it’s a confusing question but since I’m already here I wanna make sure , or do I have to re order them 😢
@boost7236 honestly I’ve never tried to remove them after I installed them, if it was me, I would try to remove them, and see if they look damaged or stretched out, if they are questionable I would just buy new ones, but I would try to save them first!
@@dirtykurty92 bro thank you for the reply man , yes bro I’m literally in the process of doing my trays and cams along with timing chain crank hub all that , so I did just take one back out and it kind of looks good but kind of doesn’t really hard to tell honestly
@@dirtykurty92 but just like any other seal.. these go in place as should once the car is started exposed to heat right ,
If it’s questionable I’d just buy new ones for sure they are not too expensive, and would hate to have one fail
@@dirtykurty92 bro your reply’s mean a lot !! Thanks again honestly top of my head of course that’s what I been thinking the while time but the fact that I didn’t wanna wait any longer !!! But better safe then sorry bro and I hope once I put everything back as accurate as possible the car is good
Now N54 got vanos inlet cold code
What code is it?
2009 x6 n54 I remove the and oil pan timing hut by mistake I buy tools and put everything back and now
2a7c
3100
2e97h/11927
2a7a thanks for your help
Hmmm interesting, so sounds like a vanos issue potential, start by making sure you have enough and good oil in your engine, if that is good test the vanos solenoids, maybe check your vanos oil screens. If you took your timing apart making sure your cams are in time is very important.
I removed the Crank hub by mistake I found screw head in the oil pan, I buy timing tools new vanos solenoides, ow20 i'm thinking to put 5w40 and reprogram The vanos solenoides
Any luck on figuring out your issue?
Hello
is there a part for N42/N46 engine ? :D
I’m not sure what year and model I’ll look into it for you!
@@dirtykurty92 I have found some for N42/N46 at Hemenker .
in case someone would look for the same info
@@skdenes01 good to know man! I apperception the update!
Wat yr did they upgrade the seals anyone know?
I do not know, can’t seem to find the answer