I just purchased a 2009 E93 335i BECAUSE I’m confident with his channel’s content; I’ll be able fix almost anything and avoid most of the BMW repair tax
The things I have learned from watching you for years, have put a roof over my head and food in my stomach! I truly thank you for the content and respect you as an individual! God bless you... keep doing you!
Nice, just did all of this over the past week. Nearly done with my complete disassembly and rebuild - can't wait to drive it again after 16 weeks. Love the content, you're one of my favorite channels.
2007 335i 200,000 kms i just rolled in a set of king rod bearings using your video new timing chains and guides and oil pump chains and guides your vidio was very easy to follow it helped me step by step with torque specs and vvt crank lock bolt stage 2 walbro in tank fuel pump pheonix aluminum intake with 550cc in injectors BMS WMI 7bms injectors new index12 injectors new Eldor coils NGK sparks JB4 new cam ledges and seals new hydraulic lifters new vanos valves DocRace 6266 precision singe turbo kit with 7.5 inch FMI from MAGA HKS blow off valve and charge pipe . i should be finished by spring no money left for mods but i will have to Dyno Tune in spring limited resources because i live in Toronto Canada
Glad to see I wasn't the only one without a torque wrench appropriate for the windage tray bolts! I torqued by feel with those as well and seeing you do it the same way gives me a lot more confidence in my engine. Cheers!
You're' correct... It purrs. Like when it was new. I had NO idea that the N54 had separate cam and oil pump chains. So glad this video is here. I might get brave to try this sometime after less invasive options have been exhausted (and I actually have time to work on my N54 09 E90)
Long story short, my belt got sucked into the crankshaft and of course got into the pick up tube and all over the pan. Come to find out the guides broke too. So! This guide is so helpful right now to get started with replacing everything but the oil pump. I got the timing and oil pump chain kits, new crankshaft seal, vc and pan gaskets, I think I'm ready to rock n roll on this! Thank you so much for your content!! p.s. I'm running on the N55 E90 platform
Hi, how did it go? I had to do the timing in my n55 but once I put everything together and attempt to rotate the engine it is not possible and can not complete 1 revolution on the f30 n55. Do you have any advice?
@@nahtannoJv8 It's not wanting to turn? Did you inspect the rest of the engine checking to see if the rods, pistons, etc are good while you had the valve cover and front seal off?
@@yungsaile the engine was running before I took things apart. I was doing the oil sump gasket. that's when I found a piece of plastic in the sump. and upon inspection, I saw that the oil pump tensioner was just broken. While I was there I decided to do the timing components as well . since the engine was running fine. I did not even bother to turn the engine manually(my mistake). but when using the timing tool for the n55 the camshafts did not align in place. I thought maybe the timing is off. never had a check engine light until that moment. Now that I replaced the timing chain and use the timing tool and had the crankshaft in TDC using the locking pin.The engine turns but can not complete 1 full revolution. At first, I thought the engine is not turning because I left the car in first gear So I put it in neutral later I had someone press the clutch and still can not complete the revolution. then change the TDC by a few degrees and I still can not complete 1 full revolution manually. just when I am about to make it gets stuck. pistons valves seem fine. but no way to tell unless I do a compression test or something. and rn I am just trying to gather patience to go back at it lol
@@nahtannoJv8 Oh I know the feeling of trying to regain patience to figure out the issue lol but dang even I'm left in a strut trying to figure out what it could possibly be. If I recall my oil pump tensioner/guide did indeed break too and found within the oil pan along with the shreds of the serpentine belt. As time consuming as it is, I think starting at the beginning a little to backtrack and retrace steps is what I would do (done that so many times on other projects). What happened to your car to do this project if you don't mind me asking?
Hats off to you man, this is some serious work. I'm just starting to learn my way around the n55 and watching you pull this off encourages me to work on mine.
hey man whats going on im really hoping you can help lol i have a 2007 335i 113k and im getting 002A99 and 002A98 it turns on but really rough idle i wanted to check if the time is correct but ive never for on a n54 how can i check the timing? is there a mark on the camshafts and a mark on the bottom? anything helps lol thanks!
Hey, typically you'd need the tool for that but if you put cylinder one at TDC and pop the valve cover off the camshafts would be both in a position where the square tool can fit over it. So there are two flat edges on each camshaft they'd be at 90 degrees.
Hey brother your videos are top quality I've done all my work following g your day guides I appreciate what you do and want to say thank you for teaching me so much about the amazing n54 keep it up hope all is well!
Had you inspected your Rod Bearings, you probably would have saved the engine. Are you using the BMW recommended oil? Have you looked into Redline 5w50 like Troy has suggested?
Yeah I typically frown upon using RTV on crank or rear main seals as if you install them correctly you shouldn't need any but the N54 has a bed plate and you have to use sealant anyway. With the pan dropped I had clear access to see if any excess RTV would have made it through the other side so I felt comfortable using it.
You make this 'scary as F*' repair look humanly do-able for the DIY'er. Still a bit scary but I have a step by step mentor to get me there. Your channel is amazing. Thank you always for your content.
I have my engine out of the car, and with it on a stand I dont have the ability to have the flywheel on, can I still do this properly without locking the flywheel since it isn't on the engine currently?
am i missing something? i didnt have a grip disk washer for the crank hub. or somehow lost it while taking it off. but i dont exactly see a washer in the video @ 9:38. so its hard to see what it looks like
Hey bro I have a question , so I’m at DTC with the flywheel locked and with the pin also , but I removed the hex bolt without locking the crankhub .. what should I do now?
hey just wanted to ask how would you find time if your chain comes off for the valves barcode up and use timing tool but what about finding compression stroke vs exhaust with piston 1 TDC how can i tell?? also is it necessary to replaces all guides and slides for chain? any help would be appreciated been watching you for a long time always good content.
I have a 2007 335i that keeps misfiring i changed the plugs and the coils and moved the injectors around and the misfires are still there, 😞 it keeps shooting fire balls i moved to texas 6 months ago i just want my car running again, Would you know what else can cause a misfire on the n54's ?
There is no way to know if the can ledges are using the upgraded teflon seals without removing them, right? If we're going to remove them anyway, how much out of this series of videos would you recommend doing while we're in there as preventive maintenance for cars that would need it (say, >120k mi N54 E90s)?
Hey quick question, after timing and spinning engine to ensure timing, do you hear a clicking/clunking noise as you manually spin the engine? I hear this is normal, wondering if you heard it as well.
After replacing vanos solenoids I still keep getting the code , question is you think this would solve the problem ? Turbos only work for a couple seconds after restarting car , then seconds later the car is just N/a
Hey thanks for all the vids. The same thing happened to my n54 and I used your vid to put it back together. I ran into a problem after...crank, no start. Pulled the VC off, locked the flywheel with the pin, and spun the crank manually to tdc to check timing and noticed one of the cams isn't at tdc anymore (it turned 180 degrees ) Any thoughts on how to get that cam back to tdc, without having to do the whole job again ? lol
I loose the screw by cracking, I take everything out I hear something fall off I put everything back, do you think some come apart or timing get lost? Thanks for your help
Thanks for taking the effort to record and share all of this! Ps. after torqueing the bolts that needed an additional angle of tightening.. was this done this by estimate? or does your digital torque wrench also support an angle setting? I have an analog torque wrench so am not totally sure how to do this. thanks. Regards from the Netherlands.
I've got question about the locking pin for the crankshaft. When you're tightening the crankshaft bolt, do you keep the locking pin in place when counter holding the crankshaft hub?
if anybody see this, no dont use the locking pin to hold the crank. i learned the hard wat. use pin only for holding tdc for other work that require tdc. my locking pin is bent and stuck inside the engine case after undoing the crank bolt. use the crank holder kit or buy the crank hub holder tool
Thanks, yeah considering you just need to lock the top and bottom and torque down the crank bolt it seemed really easy. You don't have to 2nd guess if you are one tooth off.
What symptoms were you having that made you change the timing chain? I have an F30 w/ an n55, its about to hit 200k miles. My car runs fine but I think I may be getting a subtle whine sound from the oil pump. Not sure. I'm a big proponent for replacing parts like this early before they fail. Not sure of the life span of the chain guides. I know the n20 guides like to fail early.
Great video thanks You have a new subscriber . I take my car to my mechanic because I he told me that my vacuum pump fail . When he was trying to replaced noticed that my chain retainers were melted and need to replaced the all thing inside . Thanks this video give an idea for what my mechanic got it go through and eh was correct on everything that he told me that he need to remove in order to get access to it ,👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video! I'm getting ready to do my oil pan gasket and decided to do my rod bearings while i'm in there. Did you reuse the bolt for the oil pump gear? I can't find that particular bolt anywhere so i'm assuming it's reused. Thanks!
Did the crank bolt have lock-tite or thread-locker on it? If so, would it help to warm it up a bit first? I know that could damage the crank seal, but its being replaced anyways, right?
I have watched so many of your videos, I feel like I know you. Thank you for making all the content you have on this platform! Anyway, quick question: How much did this repair cost you, all together?
What a great series, I subscribed right away!! Hows the car feeling and holding up since all the work?! And how many miles you got on her currently?? Thanks for all your hard work and dedication!!
That's crazy where the helix caused the oil chain to break and I heard about this happening, but never saw it first hand. I have a helix 3x overdrive which I recently installed, but I only have 50k miles on my car. I also couldn't find anything online about anyone else having this issue because of the helix. I know they since added the support bracket and plate because of the stock plates breaking due to the pivotal weight with the helix and HPFP in line. But based on that, do you think it might have caused the failure because I know you were running the helix without the additional plate and support bracket. Is it possible that without those additions, the weight and movement from driving could have flexed the gear and guides enough over time to cause damage?
Thanks! I have upgraded the diverter vales to some cheap aftermarket ones, you'll find a video on my channel for it. I have state 2+ turbos which are still doing great and the aftermarket DVs are holding 25 psi without issue.
Super robota , ale powinieneś wymienić też chlodnicę oleju . Mogły wpaść tam jakieś opiłki , a nie ma szans żeby dobrze je z tamtąd usunąć.(you oil cooler replayce )
After watching these videos, I regret selling my n54 every day. This content deserves way more subscribers than 45k.
Still a lot of work, but this guy makes it so easy. Brand new subscriber! This guy is slowly changing my views on bmw engineering.
@@indianboy0453 He makes it look easy, but none of this stuff is easy at all. :)
@@ludak83 I notice 2 things ! Patients and Never Get Annoyed ,the sign of a Great Teacher !!! Love it
I just purchased a 2009 E93 335i BECAUSE I’m confident with his channel’s content; I’ll be able fix almost anything and avoid most of the BMW repair tax
The things I have learned from watching you for years, have put a roof over my head and food in my stomach! I truly thank you for the content and respect you as an individual! God bless you... keep doing you!
Nice, just did all of this over the past week. Nearly done with my complete disassembly and rebuild - can't wait to drive it again after 16 weeks. Love the content, you're one of my favorite channels.
2007 335i 200,000 kms i just rolled in a set of king rod bearings using your video new timing chains and guides and oil pump chains and guides your vidio was very easy to follow it helped me step by step with torque specs
and vvt crank lock bolt stage 2 walbro in tank fuel pump pheonix aluminum intake with 550cc in injectors BMS WMI 7bms injectors new index12 injectors new Eldor coils NGK sparks JB4 new cam ledges and seals new hydraulic lifters new vanos valves DocRace 6266 precision singe turbo kit with 7.5 inch FMI from MAGA
HKS blow off valve and charge pipe . i should be finished by spring no money left for mods but i will have to Dyno Tune in spring limited resources because i live in Toronto Canada
Glad to see I wasn't the only one without a torque wrench appropriate for the windage tray bolts! I torqued by feel with those as well and seeing you do it the same way gives me a lot more confidence in my engine. Cheers!
Amazing work. The final result sounds like a brand new engine. Love it.
You're' correct... It purrs. Like when it was new. I had NO idea that the N54 had separate cam and oil pump chains. So glad this video is here. I might get brave to try this sometime after less invasive options have been exhausted (and I actually have time to work on my N54 09 E90)
Long story short, my belt got sucked into the crankshaft and of course got into the pick up tube and all over the pan. Come to find out the guides broke too. So! This guide is so helpful right now to get started with replacing everything but the oil pump. I got the timing and oil pump chain kits, new crankshaft seal, vc and pan gaskets, I think I'm ready to rock n roll on this! Thank you so much for your content!! p.s. I'm running on the N55 E90 platform
Hi, how did it go? I had to do the timing in my n55 but once I put everything together and attempt to rotate the engine it is not possible and can not complete 1 revolution on the f30 n55. Do you have any advice?
@@nahtannoJv8 It's not wanting to turn? Did you inspect the rest of the engine checking to see if the rods, pistons, etc are good while you had the valve cover and front seal off?
@@yungsaile the engine was running before I took things apart. I was doing the oil sump gasket. that's when I found a piece of plastic in the sump. and upon inspection, I saw that the oil pump tensioner was just broken. While I was there I decided to do the timing components as well . since the engine was running fine. I did not even bother to turn the engine manually(my mistake). but when using the timing tool for the n55 the camshafts did not align in place. I thought maybe the timing is off. never had a check engine light until that moment. Now that I replaced the timing chain and use the timing tool and had the crankshaft in TDC using the locking pin.The engine turns but can not complete 1 full revolution. At first, I thought the engine is not turning because I left the car in first gear So I put it in neutral later I had someone press the clutch and still can not complete the revolution. then change the TDC by a few degrees and I still can not complete 1 full revolution manually. just when I am about to make it gets stuck. pistons valves seem fine. but no way to tell unless I do a compression test or something. and rn I am just trying to gather patience to go back at it lol
@@nahtannoJv8 Oh I know the feeling of trying to regain patience to figure out the issue lol but dang even I'm left in a strut trying to figure out what it could possibly be. If I recall my oil pump tensioner/guide did indeed break too and found within the oil pan along with the shreds of the serpentine belt. As time consuming as it is, I think starting at the beginning a little to backtrack and retrace steps is what I would do (done that so many times on other projects). What happened to your car to do this project if you don't mind me asking?
#1 GO TO FOR N54 DIYS. APPRECIATE ALL THE INFORMATIVE VIDEOS.
Why did you need to use the crank locking tool in the front when the flywheel is already locked?
I also would like to know this
4K And camera skills make this video that much better, another sweet video without a doubt.
Love watching you and M539 restorations work lol
Hell yeah man! So glad you got out of this without internal damage!
Thanks!
Great series! Perfect camera shots and narration.
Hats off to you man, this is some serious work. I'm just starting to learn my way around the n55 and watching you pull this off encourages me to work on mine.
Like watching a master mechanic, car sounded sweet looking forward to seeing the first drive out
Nice work man. Glade to see everything went well. The best feeling is going for that first drive.
Yeah I've been driving it every day since for the last week.
hey man whats going on im really hoping you can help lol i have a 2007 335i 113k and im getting 002A99 and 002A98 it turns on but really rough idle i wanted to check if the time is correct but ive never for on a n54 how can i check the timing? is there a mark on the camshafts and a mark on the bottom? anything helps lol thanks!
Hey, typically you'd need the tool for that but if you put cylinder one at TDC and pop the valve cover off the camshafts would be both in a position where the square tool can fit over it. So there are two flat edges on each camshaft they'd be at 90 degrees.
@@VehicularDIY thank you very much and for the bottom? the crankshaft?
I'll be happy to send my car for him to do engine rebuild, his work looks top notch..
Hey brother your videos are top quality I've done all my work following g your day guides I appreciate what you do and want to say thank you for teaching me so much about the amazing n54 keep it up hope all is well!
Dude, I can forgive the gray rtv, but not those plaid pajama bottoms 🤣 awesome video as always!
Have you seen the white socks under the flip flops yet? Where are the style police when you need them... :D
I really appreciate the video you make!! its extremely helpful for n54 owners out there including me!😁 thank you so much!
Glad to help!
I did the same with my Front Main seal a couple of years ago on my 535. Used Permatex Ultra Black oil resistant and still no leaks!!
this was calming and rewarding at the same time
Your work is super awesome. I am sure these videos will help many people, including me. Thanks a lot!
Test Drive is worth waiting for ! Nice and Smooth ,well Done !
i did notice you didn't mark the vanos gears will the install affect the way the gears operate
heath
I have the same question
Had you inspected your Rod Bearings, you probably would have saved the engine. Are you using the BMW recommended oil? Have you looked into Redline 5w50 like Troy has suggested?
Great video. Where did u list the tools needed?
What is a good source of technical data for required torques and which hardware needs to be replaced?
Been wanting to know this as well, it would be really appreciated.
check out newtis.info
Thanks!
can you please do a tutorial on how to replace the starter? having trouble with removing the bolt holding the starter in place
I admire your work man! Where do you learn these things and the extra steps? You are doing awesome work for a DIYer like myself, thank you!
Thanks! I got a lot of info from newtis.info
Where’s that crank hub locking tool? I didn’t notice a link for it.
Great video. I will soon be doing my ch & rbs on my s55 once I finish sourcing tools, all similar process.
Well done. I predict your next garage will have a lift.
Silicon sealing of crank seal should be no problem since you did not gloop it on in excess.
Yeah I typically frown upon using RTV on crank or rear main seals as if you install them correctly you shouldn't need any but the N54 has a bed plate and you have to use sealant anyway. With the pan dropped I had clear access to see if any excess RTV would have made it through the other side so I felt comfortable using it.
You make this 'scary as F*' repair look humanly do-able for the DIY'er. Still a bit scary but I have a step by step mentor to get me there. Your channel is amazing. Thank you always for your content.
Godd job, what brand do you used for timing chain ?
That was a scarily long first crank. Good job.
Great video !
But you didn't show you align the phasers ?
Great. Didn't know whether this engine repair is possible without removing it from the car. Valvetronic relates to the timing chain?
I have my engine out of the car, and with it on a stand I dont have the ability to have the flywheel on, can I still do this properly without locking the flywheel since it isn't on the engine currently?
am i missing something? i didnt have a grip disk washer for the crank hub. or somehow lost it while taking it off. but i dont exactly see a washer in the video @ 9:38. so its hard to see what it looks like
No it depends what transmission you have only manuals have a the washer installed
Great vid! You should do one just showing all the tools and their uses needed for N54/5 work
Can you please advise if there is a tensioner on the oil pump chain ?
How do we get timing right if changed chain before locking underneath on 2011 535i
I can't recall if you had left the helix overdrive in or not. I'm pulling the plug on mine and just going port injection, seems alot safer.
Hey bro I have a question , so I’m at DTC with the flywheel locked and with the pin also , but I removed the hex bolt without locking the crankhub .. what should I do now?
How do I get the chance honoring my 2013 BMW 535i GT timing chain replacement?
Thanks for the helpfully video. Have been using these to do the work on my engine.
Did you use the same vanos gear bolts? Or did you get new ones? I'm thinking of using the same ones with loctite. Not sure if it's a good idea.
Any luck with the RTV, indy shop here and we always use the bmw primer and loctite sealant with the syringe.
hey just wanted to ask how would you find time if your chain comes off for the valves barcode up and use timing tool but what about finding compression stroke vs exhaust with piston 1 TDC how can i tell?? also is it necessary to replaces all guides and slides for chain? any help would be appreciated been watching you for a long time always good content.
I have a 2007 335i that keeps misfiring i changed the plugs and the coils and moved the injectors around and the misfires are still there, 😞 it keeps shooting fire balls i moved to texas 6 months ago i just want my car running again, Would you know what else can cause a misfire on the n54's ?
Update?
I like your torque wrench, can you let us know what make and model it is?
Would you recommend all of these steps on an N52 that "ate" it's serpentine belt through the crankshaft seal then popped the timing chain?
When torqueing crank hub, what breaker bar did you use? 3/4 in? How long?
There is no way to know if the can ledges are using the upgraded teflon seals without removing them, right? If we're going to remove them anyway, how much out of this series of videos would you recommend doing while we're in there as preventive maintenance for cars that would need it (say, >120k mi N54 E90s)?
Wow. Great DIY skills. Glad you were able to save your E90. Cheers.
Hey quick question, after timing and spinning engine to ensure timing, do you hear a clicking/clunking noise as you manually spin the engine? I hear this is normal, wondering if you heard it as well.
After replacing vanos solenoids I still keep getting the code , question is you think this would solve the problem ? Turbos only work for a couple seconds after restarting car , then seconds later the car is just N/a
Amazing video, really helpful ! I'm doing the timing as well on my N52 engine and its the same exact procedure.
Keep up with the good work !
Hey thanks for all the vids. The same thing happened to my n54 and I used your vid to put it back together. I ran into a problem after...crank, no start. Pulled the VC off, locked the flywheel with the pin, and spun the crank manually to tdc to check timing and noticed one of the cams isn't at tdc anymore (it turned 180 degrees ) Any thoughts on how to get that cam back to tdc, without having to do the whole job again ? lol
I loose the screw by cracking, I take everything out I hear something fall off I put everything back, do you think some come apart or timing get lost? Thanks for your help
I put everything back and now shows 2a7c vanos inlet cold start
I know the both sprockets have their intake and exhaust mark, but when you install them do you have to put them in a certain orientation?
Thanks for taking the effort to record and share all of this! Ps. after torqueing the bolts that needed an additional angle of tightening.. was this done this by estimate? or does your digital torque wrench also support an angle setting? I have an analog torque wrench so am not totally sure how to do this. thanks. Regards from the Netherlands.
What was that screw that required the effort of Zeus to torque?
Have a link to the timing chain kit?
The oil pump bolt is not correct it is missing or doesn’t have the correct bolts
I've got question about the locking pin for the crankshaft. When you're tightening the crankshaft bolt, do you keep the locking pin in place when counter holding the crankshaft hub?
if anybody see this, no dont use the locking pin to hold the crank. i learned the hard wat. use pin only for holding tdc for other work that require tdc. my locking pin is bent and stuck inside the engine case after undoing the crank bolt. use the crank holder kit or buy the crank hub holder tool
Excellent job man. Its definitely an involved job but it looks straightforward. Easier then setting up timing on a quad camed car.
Thanks, yeah considering you just need to lock the top and bottom and torque down the crank bolt it seemed really easy. You don't have to 2nd guess if you are one tooth off.
Can the oil pump chain and and guide be replaced alone?
What symptoms were you having that made you change the timing chain? I have an F30 w/ an n55, its about to hit 200k miles. My car runs fine but I think I may be getting a subtle whine sound from the oil pump. Not sure. I'm a big proponent for replacing parts like this early before they fail. Not sure of the life span of the chain guides. I know the n20 guides like to fail early.
Great video thanks
You have a new subscriber .
I take my car to my mechanic because I he told me that my vacuum pump fail . When he was trying to replaced noticed that my chain retainers were melted and need to replaced the all thing inside .
Thanks this video give an idea for what my mechanic got it go through and eh was correct on everything that he told me that he need to remove in order to get access to it ,👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video! I'm getting ready to do my oil pan gasket and decided to do my rod bearings while i'm in there.
Did you reuse the bolt for the oil pump gear? I can't find that particular bolt anywhere so i'm assuming it's reused. Thanks!
Thanks! Yes I reused it.
What do you think caused the failure, in hine sight do you think you could have done something to avoid it?
Likely the hpfp overdrive solution I had installed when I upgraded my turbos.
Did the crank bolt have lock-tite or thread-locker on it? If so, would it help to warm it up a bit first? I know that could damage the crank seal, but its being replaced anyways, right?
I didn't see any. I don't think heating it should be necessary but yeah its a good time to change the crank seal.
@@VehicularDIY Okay cool, thanks for the reply. Perhaps thread locker interferes with the torque measurement. It's obviously a critical fastener
I have watched so many of your videos, I feel like I know you. Thank you for making all the content you have on this platform! Anyway, quick question: How much did this repair cost you, all together?
Best video ever, I have a much better idea on how the timing chain removal works. Thank you!
Can you pull the head with engine still in car ?
Hi, do you use guides to do all these jobs, if so where can i get them? Great video!
Thanks! I get most of the info from newtis.info.
A whole new engine!
I have an N52 with automatic trans. Do I still need some sort of device to hold the trans or can I rely on the locking pin
The locking pin is not recommended for removing the front crank bold, you would want a flywheel locking tool that engages the teeth.
Where did you get the crank hub lock?
And I don’t think there is a way to lock my auto trans. Besides just the locking pin and crank hub tool. At least not that I can find
Hey I was wondering. What a good oil to go with when doing you oil change on an 08 335i N54? My engine has 129,300 miles
I wish I could just pay you to do mine lol, amazing work !
Another awesome content!!!
What a great series, I subscribed right away!!
Hows the car feeling and holding up since all the work?! And how many miles you got on her currently??
Thanks for all your hard work and dedication!!
Thanks! It's driving great, have put only about 1K miles.
Your hub looks different @9:40 than it does when you pulled it out. Did you swap it with the updated version?
I did yes, the latest version.
@@VehicularDIY yeah I watched your older vids after asking hah thanks
How did the engine rtv hold up around the crank seal any notable leaks after replacing or is it dry
Its completely dry.
Would this work on a N53 engine? 2008 328i
That's crazy where the helix caused the oil chain to break and I heard about this happening, but never saw it first hand. I have a helix 3x overdrive which I recently installed, but I only have 50k miles on my car. I also couldn't find anything online about anyone else having this issue because of the helix. I know they since added the support bracket and plate because of the stock plates breaking due to the pivotal weight with the helix and HPFP in line. But based on that, do you think it might have caused the failure because I know you were running the helix without the additional plate and support bracket. Is it possible that without those additions, the weight and movement from driving could have flexed the gear and guides enough over time to cause damage?
One time use parts ?
nice series! towards the end i noticed you are still using the stock DVs on your dynamic autowerx stage 3 turbos and 25psi. Hows it holding?
Thanks! I have upgraded the diverter vales to some cheap aftermarket ones, you'll find a video on my channel for it. I have state 2+ turbos which are still doing great and the aftermarket DVs are holding 25 psi without issue.
What was your original problem that led you to do the timing chain?
Super robota , ale powinieneś wymienić też chlodnicę oleju . Mogły wpaść tam jakieś opiłki , a nie ma szans żeby dobrze je z tamtąd usunąć.(you oil cooler replayce )
What’s up brotha, the chain shouldn’t have any tension correct?
awesome work as always
Did all this except i used the fly wheel pin lock and its stuck😭
Very nice! Dutch regards, Nico.
Do you loan out your tool for this job for a fee of course?
Not in Virginia by chance are you?
Did you fo the crankshaft bearings also?
No that would involve pulling the motor as you have to drop the bed plate.
@@VehicularDIY sorry, what I meant was rod bearings.