5 year old video I know but thought I'd chime in nevertheless: T1-11 also comes in a "rough-sawn plain textured face" version (no grooves). We used it on our house and added battens for a board and batten look.
Painting and protecting the exposed ends and cuts is actually very important. T1-11 can begin to have significant problems in as short as 10 years if not properly installed. Proper installation protects all exposed cuts and ends from water exposure. T1-11 can swell with water.
Thanks for this! I didn't know what kind of siding I have on my house and now I do. Next I have to figure out how to fix some rot I've discovered on my garage wall.
Very nice intro SyberPrepper and a very good video. I've used this on part of my house lately and it looks brilliant. I used Tyvek insulation sheets underneath and the T-11 ply over it for our back veranda. Looks brilliant. Great you posted this up.
The horizontal trim board at the splice point has always concerned me as a water collection point. The vertical groves 8" oc are perfect channels for water to get behind the trim even when loaded up with caulk. I suppose you could rip an angle on top of the trim board; but ... I'll assume you've got some Z-bar behind the trim too. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for a very informative video. Why isn't a housewrap required? Is the rigid foam waterproof and airtight? Also since the fasteners go through the rigid foam, do they get adequate support? I would think that the foam doesn't provide much support and it would be like installing the siding with an air gap from a structural standpoint.
sweatyfish2007, No problems putting the T1-11 over 2" foam. I think I used 3 1/2" screws. My studs were 16" on center and I put screws every 12" or so on all studs. Again, no problems. If there was a stud where the tongue and groove overlapped I would put a screw. I used lot of caulk to make sure no water could get in. It has held up very well.
I agree that T1-11 has a nice post modern vibe. However, unless it is vigorously primed, painted and maintained it will deteriorate due to the open ply grooves. I would suggest a better siding is solid siding such as James Hardie fiber cement? It has a much longer life and will not warp or delaminate. The horizontal siding and or board and batten appearance is quite nice and more worry free.
I tried to use the metal flashing, but it seemed more susceptible to water getting in. Also, if you cover the joint with a trim board, you can caulk the top of the trim board, which gives even more protection from water getting in. Water is the enemy in this case.
Ny plantings: Looks like your replies for TH-cam are turned off, so I'll reply here. I think the only way to replace part of a T1-11 board would be to use some type of trim to cover the joint and lots of caulk. I'm thinking board & batten type of thing. However, I think it would be hard to keep the water out over the long term, especially a chevron pattern. Probably better to special order the 9 ft boards and replace them. Be careful taking the old ones off and use them as a pattern to make replacing and matching easy.
Thanks. The first time I knew the siding on my house was called "T1-11" was when I got an estimate from a contractor to powerwash and paint (or stain) the house. Now I have to decide which route to go and what colors/products to use. The house was built in 1983 and despite exposure to rain, harsh Poconos winters, and (to the best of my knowledge) the original stain, the siding has held up well. Can't say the same for the 1/4" plywood soffits and pine 1X12 fascia, much of that has to be replaced as well.
Hi Eric, I think the T1-11 is a great product if you use the multi-layer plywood type like I show in the video. The key is making sure the edges are sealed well to keep out water. If so, it will last a very long time.
SyberPrepper My contractor says he has to replace four sheets which are warped from exposure. Hopefully he will know to use plywood. Do you see any potential problems in powerwashing the house first to get the old stain off? Also is stain OK for the new finish or do you think paint would be better?
erichsh58 Since power washing has such high pressure, there's a good chance some water will get into some nooks and crannys behind the siding. So, after power washing, I would want to wait a few sunny warm days before doing any additional siding to allow time for any trapped water to dry. As far as stain vs paint, it is a matter of UV and fade resistance. Both Stain and Paint have these qualities if you buy the right kind. However, for me, paint seems to last longer before having to re-paint since fading is less noticeable. Also, paint seems to fill in small cracks better.
I have plywood sheets behind my t1-11 every other 5 feet. So theres a gap that 5 feet. Rotting bottoms. So im thinkin i ll hv to fill that gap w sheets so i can properly align a z channel.
Thank you for your video. Question: How did you remove plywood siding panels? For my house, It looks like the plywood siding panels are sandwiched by two (2x4) exterior and interior. How can you take them down (I removed all the nails, but I couldn't pull it down)?
I've never seen anything like that so it is hard for me to say. Please make sure they are not structural and holding up part of the house. You could possibly leave them and cover them with 2" styrofoam insulation and then put your siding on that. Maybe seek out a contractor locally for some advice on how to proceed?
Building a tiny house on trailer, and limited to 102 inches in width. To save space, I'm thinking about doing a 3/8 plywood sheathing, and then using 1/2" T1-11 siding, as I want to put house wrap between both. Can I either put T1-11 directly on studwalls thus avoiding the 3/8 sheathing? Or can I also put both sheathing and siding up together, or would that be overkill? Thanks
Allowed without house wrap and rigid insulation in Florida? Do you use finish nails? Possible to used finish screws? You caulk between sheets before attaching? I would think an outdoor vertical baseboard like that will become a problem area as water will seep in.
I'm in the midwest so things may be different in Florida. I did not caulk the vertical joints. The paint seals those joints very nicely. It is very important to keep the water out of the top horizontal joints, so I did use caulk there. I also caulked on top of any horizontal trim. It has held up very well. No problems.
Hi. I have a contemporary home similar to yours and about 2400 sq. It's 23 yrs old and I have a few questions: 1. how long before I need to replace it (some areas look very worn with paint chipping, wood deteriorating, etc.), 2. how much might it cost me to replace all the siding? , 3. is there anything I can treat it with to prevent woodpeckers from continuing to 'dig' into the sides of the house?
Ernest, T1-11 can easily go more than 20 years, if you keep it painted or stained and keep it sealed against water. I have some on my house that is 30 years old. Sorry don't know about woodpecker prevention. As far as cost, I figure about $40 per 4x8 sheet of T1-11, if you install it yourself. You would have to add paint, caulk, and other supplies to that figure. So, if one side of your house was 16' tall and 32' long, it would take 16 panels times $40 = $640 for the T1-11 for that side. You can use this example to determine what it would cost for your whole house. One last thing. The sun is a killer on paint - even good paint. So, the sunny side of the house will need to be painted more often. Thanks.
Hi, I watched your video...because its 2021, would you do anything different today? I am a retired machinist and am undertaking replacing a 10 by 15 water damaged section of my home. This also includes a window. My first big project
No, I wouldn't do much differently today because the installation in the video is still holding up just fine. I still love plywood type of T1-11 siding. The other type of T1-11, the OSB type does NOT holdup to time and weather, so stay away from that. The key is keeping the water out. I used a lot of caulk on the joints and have not had any water infiltration. To me the biggest problem is that you have to paint it. I don't like to paint. smile. Good luck and thanks for watching.
I saw a different video that after the weather paper was installed they used furring strips on the studs to allow moisture to flow down the weather paper without getting trapped and rotted. So im not sure what video is correct, according to this video you install the siding directly over the weather paper allowing moisture to be trap in between the siding and paper. Not saying it's wrong just don't know
Hi Joe, I happened to be sitting in front of the computer and saw your comment. Thanks for the comment/question. The science of building is always improving. There are products available now that have ripples www.benjaminobdyke.com/products/hydrogap-drainable-housewrap or dimples in them that allow drainage and keep moisture from being trapped. Builders have used other types of air gap/drainage products behind cedar shake siding for years as well. There are lots of things to consider such as how you will drain any water that gets behind your siding or how much R value you are losing by letting the temperature transmit through the furring strips and 2x4s. It takes very little space to let the water/moisture out so furring strips may be overkill depending on how thick they are. Good luck on your research.
I have a question, If my house is all sealed up well already and it has really old but fiber cement shingle siding that is smooth, could I install this directly over that? if so would I still install a vapor barrier over the old fiber cement siding?
Thank you for the video. I myself have a home with what i presume is this T1-11 siding or something similar in wood. the house was built in 1977. My issue is the wood covering the seams in the siding. In your video and subsequent replies you used cedar. I live in Colorado and thought pine/redwood might be appropriate. Thoughts? In your video you mentioned caulking the top and not the bottom was this on the cedar?
Hi Eddie, Pine doesn't have the same qualities as cedar and redwood. Both cedar and redwood contain oils that resist rot and insects and therefore are good for exterior applications. Typically redwood is much more expensive than cedar and can be more difficult to glue and stain. So cedar would be my first choice but redwood would certainly work just fine. I caulked the top of the horizontal cedar trim boards so water could not infiltrate between the siding and the trim as it runs down the siding. No need to caulk the bottom of the trim boards since it's not likely that water would get in that way. Hope this helps.
The t111 siding on your house will leak for sure where the top panels meet the bottom. If you used j channel and put that board across the channel it will leak most definitely. The only way to properly install it is to first fur out the top with strips of 5/8 (make strips with scrap t111.) This way when you put the top sheets on it will overlap the bottom. No leak this way.... If you take those panels off you will see how water has got through the back side.
I was wondering the same I have a situation where I have a wall that is over 8 ft tall and I was wondering what I would do at that joint I just don't like the look of overlapping one to the other it's too bad there wasn't another solution
Hello, I also have T1-11 siding on my new house. I am wondering what you used to seal the top of your window? I also have a thick frame around my windows that have been wrapped with aluminum, but the T1-11 has grooves where water can get in. Did you seal just with a lot of caulking or is there another way?
Hi Candice, I used OSI Quad caulk and it is great for sealing the T1-11 grooves and any areas above the windows. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes.
Hello John Davis, For some reason the system wouldn't let me reply directly so I'll do it here. I'm not crazy about installing siding over other siding. However, as long as you have a flat, stable surface, you probably could. You might want to have your fiber cement shingles tested for asbestos. That may affect your decision on how to proceed.
Hi, I have this siding on my 21 year old a frame house. I'm planning on repainting it, could you please advise on what paint to use and if primer is necessary. Thank you in advance. This is very informative video.
TZakPol, Thanks for the comment. I've used Valspar Duramax (from Lowes) and have had good luck with it. The label says it is Primer + Paint so you don't need a separate primer coat. This saves money and time. Make sure your surface is clean. You may want to buy some TSP and mix a solution and clean your siding before you paint it. Also, don't forget to caulk any cracks. T1-11 breaks down quickly if water gets in. I talk about the caulk (OSI Quad) at the 2:25 in the video. If you have trim boards, caulk the top side so water can't get behind it. May sound like overkill but it will really prolong the life of the siding and the trim.
Can you talk about the caulking? You said you caulked the top, do you also caulk the sides of each 4 x 8 piece? When you said the bottom was left un-caulked how much of an opening is on the bottom?
Hi juxtn, water infiltrates and damages easily from the top of the 4x8 sheet. So, that's why I caulk the horizontal seams at the top of each panel. I don't caulk the side seams because it is a very tight joint and the paint fills any voids to keep water out. The bottom of the 4x8 sheet fits tightly against the insulation so it doesn't need any caulk. One last thing. I do caulk the top of all of the horizontal 1x8 trim. This provides another layer of protection to keep water out.
Leif, Did you use the OSB type or the laminated plywood type of T1-11? If it was the OSB type then I agree with you, but I've had good luck with the laminated plywood type. The biggest key I've found is to seal it with paint or caulk. If I keep it painted and the joints sealed, it lasts a long time. Sorry about your luck with it.
How to i hide the z flashing that separates the sheets of t-111. I'm concerned water and snow could get behind the horizontal trim. Caulk does not seem to be the correct thing. some type of flashing i guess.
You're correct. you can use a 1x but you need to use flashing under t 1 11 on top. It's a lot of work. The z flashing aint so bad. just be sure to seal the top of the bottom sheet.
I think this was answered, but can you use this product direct over framing members (no OSB sheathing) for building small outbuildings such as sheds? Good informative video, thanks.
Hi Bill, Yes, T1-11 works great directly on framing members for sheds. Just remember it needs to be painted so water doesn't get in. Thanks for watching.
I was wondering how long this actually took for you to do, what was the actual insulation that you used, and how much did THIS side of the house cost. Thanks for the info.
Hi James, It took about 2 weeks total. I got most of the siding removed and re-installed in the first week. Rented scaffolding made things easier and faster. I used 2" thick 4x8 sheets of rigid insulation from Lowe's. As far as cost: T1-11 about $540, Rigid insulation about $200. Paint about $250 to $300. Cedar trim $200 to $300. Add in screws, foil tape, brushes it probably cost about $1300 or $1400 for material.
If possible, it is better to buy the window with a nailing flange and install it before the siding. There are more opportunities to make a window weather tight if installed before the siding. However, replacement windows (without the nailing flange) are installed all the time after the siding is up (think of replacement window companies). So you will need to decide which way you will install the window before you purchase it.
I've only used linseed oil on tool handles and never on exterior surfaces. However, others have used it and it can be done. The biggest problem would be no UV protection in linseed oil so the wood siding would start turning gray after a year or so. Here's a product you might look into: exteriorcoatings.com/product/clear-tung-linseed-oil-wood-uv-stain/?attribute_pa_size=5-gallons&attribute_pa_color=clear&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqOXy3u6P2gIVA6dpCh3AKwA6EAQYBSABEgLSgvD_BwE
Laminate, I primed and painted before putting on. It warps on the on sunny side of the garage. If I was smart I would have put 1/2" plywood down for $20 or less a sheet then wrapped it. Then this year put Smartside vinyl siding down for $40 a 4'x8' sheet and done it right the first time. I let the carpenter talk me into this crap since he said I could just vinyl over it in a few years when I had some more cash saved up. Bad advice.
OK, thanks for this. For rotted bottom t1-11 plywood sheets (mine are 9ft believe it or not) but the rest of board is fine.also the pattern is as chevron so it seems a bit tough to line up. Can we just cut across the panel and add a fill in piece or is it best to just replace the whole board. Lastly, the 2" thick foam board, taped, is a great touch. T
Thanks for answering my question we’re going to be building a house soon and I’m wanting to use t 1 11 for the siding, and sheathing, did you use any caulking or glue for the foam boards to studs? And how did you fasten the t 1 11 long screws?
@@Appalachiannative Congratulations on the house build. I did not use any glue between the foam boards and the 2x4s. I just used longer screws, maybe 3 1/2", to attach. Once the foam boards were attached, I covered every penetration with tape and taped all the edges of the foam boards.
@@SyberPrepper thanks we are excited about it, ok thanks that answered the question about the foam boards but what did you use to attach the T-1-11 I’m assuming long screws for that too?
@@Appalachiannative Yes, just exterior grade screws. I'm guessing 4". I don't remember exactly. The T1-11 has held up very well for me. It is very versatile and easy to work with. I did prime front and back. Some people don't believe is priming the back, but it has worked well for me. It's like an insurance policy against moisture destroying the back of the panel.
It is commonly known as house wrap. It protects the house from wind and rain that might come through the siding, but it also allows moisture vapor to escape so the structure stays dry. Remarkable stuff.
Krystal, Yes, T1-11 is 4x8. It is used all the time for sheds and small storage barns so it would be fine for a playhouse as long as you had the proper structure/framing underneath. Insulation would be up to you. Any structure without insulation will be really hot in summer and really cold in winter. Maybe a playhouse with lots of windows could be OK without insulation. Good luck with your project.
This house built in the late 70's and the plastic vapor barrier is on the inside between the studs and the interior drywall. The exterior is 2" solid foam insulation, then the 3/4" T-111 plywood siding. We didn't use house wrap since the solid foam insulation was sealed with tape on the seams and then caulk at the top and bottom. Longer screws were used to make it through the T-111 exterior and the 2" solid foam to the studs.
@@vinceocratic So, normally you would have your studs, then OSB or some type of sheathing, then house wrap, then siding. There's really 2 products. There's a vapor barrier that is used on the inside between the studs and the drywall to keep any moisture from the inside of the house penetrating to the insulation causing mold or rot. On the exterior, the product is called house wrap. House wrap is different because it breathes. On the one hand it stops air and water coming from the outside, but it also has microscopic holes that allows vapor to escape.
Bob Ferguson Something is broke in TH-cam or Google+ so I can't reply directly. You asked whether to use 3/8 plywood underT1-11. T1-11 is plenty strong, but since you are talking about a tiny house on a trailer, I would want the extra rigidity of plywood under the T1-11 so things don't rack while you pull the tiny house down the road. Lot's of people have tiny house videos on TH-cam so they might be a better resource. Great question.
T1-11 can be as strong as plywood. BUT, you must drive the nails through the thick portion of the board, not the narrow grooves. If you want to strengthen any plywood material, you can add glue and/or add additional nails or screws to the corner 12" area (but not tighter than 3" o.c., unless you have 3x studs.)
Hi Vikki, I hide the horizontal seams with 8" wide cedar boards like you see in my video. I also caulk the top of the horizontal cedar trim so that no water can get down and into the T1-11. You could use narrower boards if that worked better for you. Narrower boards would be less noticeable if painted the same color as the T1-11. I have used z flashing in the past, but I did not this time. Instead, I'm depending on caulk like OSI Quad Advanced Formula Sealant for windows, doors, and siding. I caulk where the T1-11 butts another panel and then, as a backup, caulk on top of the horizontal seam of cedar trim as I spoke about above. Everything is still holding up well after more than a year and I've not had to touchup the caulk yet.
Hi teeduck, I actually like the look of T1-11 compared to other types of siding. That's just my opinion of course. Everyone has their own views. I haven't priced siding like cedar of redwood, but I'm guessing the cost is significantly higher than T1-11. Also, installation of 4x8 sheets of T1-11 is much faster and easier than traditional siding. Just some thoughts. Thanks for the question.
I see no problem installing these horizontally except for extra maintenance. You would need to take extra precautions to keep the water from penetrating. The seams between panels would need to be sealed so that water could not get through. You would need to spend more time maintaining them with caulk and paint but it could be done.
Okay cool cuz I purchased the 4 oc with the 5 layers and going to put new siding on the house. 1500 sq foot I was just nervous because I wasn’t to sure
Hi Steve, Good question. If the joint is tight, the primer and paint seal it pretty good. However, if the joint isn't tight or there is some kind of deflection then I caulk the joint after the T1-11 is installed. The caulk I talked about in the video can be painted so no problems there. You want to keep water out, so caulk if that's what it takes.
OK great...I would do this but hate heights..so if anyone knows the right contractor in easy Stroudsburg PA to side a 1.5 story 1600 sq ft house lets do it!
DO NOT USE THIS CRAP! You are better off slapping down plywood and waiting until you have the cash for vinyl later. I put this on one year ago and it is already coming off!! It warps, it doesn't hold on, it's cheap it's shitty! I am going to have to rip it off put playwood on and then put siding over it. To do that I have to cut the soffits and cost me way more and take way more time than to just do it right the first time!
I hate T-111. It rots all the time if it's exposed to the outside elements. I've been replacing T-111 for the past 33 years I have lived in this house in Orlando. I don't recommend T-111 as a siding option.
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
5 year old video I know but thought I'd chime in nevertheless: T1-11 also comes in a "rough-sawn plain textured face" version (no grooves). We used it on our house and added battens for a board and batten look.
Where I work at we used 5/8” x 9’ cedar t111 siding. It works great . We used it for years. Good stuff.
Painting and protecting the exposed ends and cuts is actually very important. T1-11 can begin to have significant problems in as short as 10 years if not properly installed. Proper installation protects all exposed cuts and ends from water exposure. T1-11 can swell with water.
Rent the scaffolding is a great idea, thanks for the video
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful.
Comments like this make it worthwhile. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this! I didn't know what kind of siding I have on my house and now I do. Next I have to figure out how to fix some rot I've discovered on my garage wall.
+dlhiles Glad it helped. Good luck with your project.
Those sliding glass doors look just fine.
Very nice intro SyberPrepper and a very good video. I've used this on part of my house lately and it looks brilliant. I used Tyvek insulation sheets underneath and the T-11 ply over it for our back veranda. Looks brilliant. Great you posted this up.
Glad you liked the video. T1-11 is such a versatile material and can be used in so many ways. Thanks for letting us know about your project!
Not a problem mate.
The horizontal trim board at the splice point has always concerned me as a water collection point. The vertical groves 8" oc are perfect channels for water to get behind the trim even when loaded up with caulk. I suppose you could rip an angle on top of the trim board; but ... I'll assume you've got some Z-bar behind the trim too. Thanks for the video.
Yea may look nice I say use Z bar flashing
Thanks for a very informative video. Why isn't a housewrap required? Is the rigid foam waterproof and airtight? Also since the fasteners go through the rigid foam, do they get adequate support? I would think that the foam doesn't provide much support and it would be like installing the siding with an air gap from a structural standpoint.
Great questions, hope someone can answer.
Nice piece of work.
sweatyfish2007, No problems putting the T1-11 over 2" foam. I think I used 3 1/2" screws. My studs were 16" on center and I put screws every 12" or so on all studs. Again, no problems. If there was a stud where the tongue and groove overlapped I would put a screw. I used lot of caulk to make sure no water could get in. It has held up very well.
Thank you for the intro to T1-11. I'll be using it in a couple of weeks on our new house, and didn't really know that much about it. Cheers!
I agree that T1-11 has a nice post modern vibe. However, unless it is vigorously primed, painted and maintained it will deteriorate due to the open ply grooves. I would suggest a better siding is solid siding such as James Hardie fiber cement? It has a much longer life and will not warp or delaminate. The horizontal siding and or board and batten appearance is quite nice and more worry free.
Great video 😊
Thanks, so you just butted that vertical joint. I thought I had to use metal flashing at vertical connection?
I tried to use the metal flashing, but it seemed more susceptible to water getting in. Also, if you cover the joint with a trim board, you can caulk the top of the trim board, which gives even more protection from water getting in. Water is the enemy in this case.
this was a real good video on how to install wood siding
Ny plantings: Looks like your replies for TH-cam are turned off, so I'll reply here. I think the only way to replace part of a T1-11 board would be to use some type of trim to cover the joint and lots of caulk. I'm thinking board & batten type of thing. However, I think it would be hard to keep the water out over the long term, especially a chevron pattern. Probably better to special order the 9 ft boards and replace them. Be careful taking the old ones off and use them as a pattern to make replacing and matching easy.
Thanks. The first time I knew the siding on my house was called "T1-11" was when I got an estimate from a contractor to powerwash and paint (or stain) the house. Now I have to decide which route to go and what colors/products to use. The house was built in 1983 and despite exposure to rain, harsh Poconos winters, and (to the best of my knowledge) the original stain, the siding has held up well. Can't say the same for the 1/4" plywood soffits and pine 1X12 fascia, much of that has to be replaced as well.
Hi Eric, I think the T1-11 is a great product if you use the multi-layer plywood type like I show in the video. The key is making sure the edges are sealed well to keep out water. If so, it will last a very long time.
SyberPrepper
My contractor says he has to replace four sheets which are warped from exposure. Hopefully he will know to use plywood. Do you see any potential problems in powerwashing the house first to get the old stain off? Also is stain OK for the new finish or do you think paint would be better?
erichsh58
Since power washing has such high pressure, there's a good chance some water will get into some nooks and crannys behind the siding. So, after power washing, I would want to wait a few sunny warm days before doing any additional siding to allow time for any trapped water to dry. As far as stain vs paint, it is a matter of UV and fade resistance. Both Stain and Paint have these qualities if you buy the right kind. However, for me, paint seems to last longer before having to re-paint since fading is less noticeable. Also, paint seems to fill in small cracks better.
House looks sharp 👍
levi4939 Thanks and thanks for watching.
I have plywood sheets behind my t1-11 every other 5 feet. So theres a gap that 5 feet. Rotting bottoms. So im thinkin i ll hv to fill that gap w sheets so i can properly align a z channel.
Looks great, would you by chance still have the paint and trim colors?
Thank you for your video. Question: How did you remove plywood siding panels? For my house, It looks like the plywood siding panels are sandwiched by two (2x4) exterior and interior. How can you take them down (I removed all the nails, but I couldn't pull it down)?
I've never seen anything like that so it is hard for me to say. Please make sure they are not structural and holding up part of the house. You could possibly leave them and cover them with 2" styrofoam insulation and then put your siding on that. Maybe seek out a contractor locally for some advice on how to proceed?
Hey Brian,
Great tips. Thanks for posting.
Building a tiny house on trailer, and limited to 102 inches in width. To save space, I'm thinking about doing a 3/8 plywood sheathing, and then using 1/2" T1-11 siding, as I want to put house wrap between both. Can I either put T1-11 directly on studwalls thus avoiding the 3/8 sheathing? Or can I also put both sheathing and siding up together, or would that be overkill? Thanks
Allowed without house wrap and rigid insulation in Florida? Do you use finish nails? Possible to used finish screws? You caulk between sheets before attaching?
I would think an outdoor vertical baseboard like that will become a problem area as water will seep in.
I'm in the midwest so things may be different in Florida. I did not caulk the vertical joints. The paint seals those joints very nicely. It is very important to keep the water out of the top horizontal joints, so I did use caulk there. I also caulked on top of any horizontal trim. It has held up very well. No problems.
Hi. I have a contemporary home similar to yours and about 2400 sq. It's 23 yrs old and I have a few questions: 1. how long before I need to replace it (some areas look very worn with paint chipping, wood deteriorating, etc.), 2. how much might it cost me to replace all the siding? , 3. is there anything I can treat it with to prevent woodpeckers from continuing to 'dig' into the sides of the house?
Ernest, T1-11 can easily go more than 20 years, if you keep it painted or stained and keep it sealed against water. I have some on my house that is 30 years old. Sorry don't know about woodpecker prevention. As far as cost, I figure about $40 per 4x8 sheet of T1-11, if you install it yourself. You would have to add paint, caulk, and other supplies to that figure. So, if one side of your house was 16' tall and 32' long, it would take 16 panels times $40 = $640 for the T1-11 for that side. You can use this example to determine what it would cost for your whole house. One last thing. The sun is a killer on paint - even good paint. So, the sunny side of the house will need to be painted more often. Thanks.
Thanks. You've been very helpful!
Ernest Pitti Excellent! I appreciate you letting me know.
August 2020, corona stupidity madness in the U.S of A but Still watching ..
Hi, I watched your video...because its 2021, would you do anything different today? I am a retired machinist and am undertaking replacing a 10 by 15 water damaged section of my home. This also includes a window. My first big project
No, I wouldn't do much differently today because the installation in the video is still holding up just fine. I still love plywood type of T1-11 siding. The other type of T1-11, the OSB type does NOT holdup to time and weather, so stay away from that. The key is keeping the water out. I used a lot of caulk on the joints and have not had any water infiltration. To me the biggest problem is that you have to paint it. I don't like to paint. smile. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Looks great !
I saw a different video that after the weather paper was installed they used furring strips on the studs to allow moisture to flow down the weather paper without getting trapped and rotted. So im not sure what video is correct, according to this video you install the siding directly over the weather paper allowing moisture to be trap in between the siding and paper. Not saying it's wrong just don't know
Hi Joe, I happened to be sitting in front of the computer and saw your comment. Thanks for the comment/question. The science of building is always improving. There are products available now that have ripples www.benjaminobdyke.com/products/hydrogap-drainable-housewrap or dimples in them that allow drainage and keep moisture from being trapped. Builders have used other types of air gap/drainage products behind cedar shake siding for years as well. There are lots of things to consider such as how you will drain any water that gets behind your siding or how much R value you are losing by letting the temperature transmit through the furring strips and 2x4s. It takes very little space to let the water/moisture out so furring strips may be overkill depending on how thick they are. Good luck on your research.
Hey there what is the color of your home? It’s a
Nice choice I’m thinking of the same color
What is the difference between T1-11 playwood vs LP Smart side 4×8 panels?
I have a question, If my house is all sealed up well already and it has really old but fiber cement shingle siding that is smooth, could I install this directly over that? if so would I still install a vapor barrier over the old fiber cement siding?
ty for the video. very helpful
Hi Gretchen,
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for letting me know!
keep up the good work!
Thank you for the video. I myself have a home with what i presume is this T1-11 siding or something similar in wood. the house was built in 1977. My issue is the wood covering the seams in the siding. In your video and subsequent replies you used cedar. I live in Colorado and thought pine/redwood might be appropriate. Thoughts? In your video you mentioned caulking the top and not the bottom was this on the cedar?
Hi Eddie,
Pine doesn't have the same qualities as cedar and redwood. Both cedar and redwood contain oils that resist rot and insects and therefore are good for exterior applications. Typically redwood is much more expensive than cedar and can be more difficult to glue and stain. So cedar would be my first choice but redwood would certainly work just fine. I caulked the top of the horizontal cedar trim boards so water could not infiltrate between the siding and the trim as it runs down the siding. No need to caulk the bottom of the trim boards since it's not likely that water would get in that way. Hope this helps.
The t111 siding on your house will leak for sure where the top panels meet the bottom. If you used j channel and put that board across the channel it will
leak most definitely. The only way to properly install it is to first fur out the top with strips of 5/8 (make strips with scrap t111.) This way when you put the top sheets on it will overlap the bottom. No leak this way.... If you take those panels off you will see how water has got through the back side.
I was wondering the same I have a situation where I have a wall that is over 8 ft tall and I was wondering what I would do at that joint I just don't like the look of overlapping one to the other it's too bad there wasn't another solution
Jerett H I got 9’ panels to prevent the seam. I think you can even get longer ones (but they’re pricy; my 9’ ones were 75% more than 8’)
Just put a z flashing in there where the 2 panels meet and ull be fine
Hello, I also have T1-11 siding on my new house. I am wondering what you used to seal the top of your window? I also have a thick frame around my windows that have been wrapped with aluminum, but the T1-11 has grooves where water can get in. Did you seal just with a lot of caulking or is there another way?
Hi Candice, I used OSI Quad caulk and it is great for sealing the T1-11 grooves and any areas above the windows. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes.
Hello John Davis, For some reason the system wouldn't let me reply directly so I'll do it here. I'm not crazy about installing siding over other siding. However, as long as you have a flat, stable surface, you probably could. You might want to have your fiber cement shingles tested for asbestos. That may affect your decision on how to proceed.
Looks good, Economical ! Did u use
Z bar to join top and bottoms ?
Oh and that 1x6 looks way better than the average 1x4
Hi, I have this siding on my 21 year old a frame house. I'm planning on repainting it, could you please advise on what paint to use and if primer is necessary. Thank you in advance. This is very informative video.
TZakPol,
Thanks for the comment.
I've used Valspar Duramax (from Lowes) and have had good luck with it. The label says it is Primer + Paint so you don't need a separate primer coat. This saves money and time. Make sure your surface is clean. You may want to buy some TSP and mix a solution and clean your siding before you paint it.
Also, don't forget to caulk any cracks. T1-11 breaks down quickly if water gets in. I talk about the caulk (OSI Quad) at the 2:25 in the video. If you have trim boards, caulk the top side so water can't get behind it. May sound like overkill but it will really prolong the life of the siding and the trim.
Thank you very much, I will try Valspar Duramax on my house this spring.
Thanks for posting!
Will this take an epoxy coating without swelling?
Can you talk about the caulking? You said you caulked the top, do you also caulk the sides of each 4 x 8 piece? When you said the bottom was left un-caulked how much of an opening is on the bottom?
Hi juxtn, water infiltrates and damages easily from the top of the 4x8 sheet. So, that's why I caulk the horizontal seams at the top of each panel. I don't caulk the side seams because it is a very tight joint and the paint fills any voids to keep water out. The bottom of the 4x8 sheet fits tightly against the insulation so it doesn't need any caulk. One last thing. I do caulk the top of all of the horizontal 1x8 trim. This provides another layer of protection to keep water out.
Leif,
Did you use the OSB type or the laminated plywood type of T1-11? If it was the OSB type then I agree with you, but I've had good luck with the laminated plywood type. The biggest key I've found is to seal it with paint or caulk. If I keep it painted and the joints sealed, it lasts a long time. Sorry about your luck with it.
How to i hide the z flashing that separates the sheets of t-111. I'm concerned water and snow could get behind the horizontal trim. Caulk does not seem to be the correct thing. some type of flashing i guess.
You're correct. you can use a 1x but you need to use flashing under t 1 11 on top. It's a lot of work. The z flashing aint so bad. just be sure to seal the top of the bottom sheet.
I think this was answered, but can you use this product direct over framing members (no OSB sheathing) for building small outbuildings such as sheds? Good informative video, thanks.
Hi Bill, Yes, T1-11 works great directly on framing members for sheds. Just remember it needs to be painted so water doesn't get in. Thanks for watching.
I was wondering how long this actually took for you to do, what was the actual insulation that you used, and how much did THIS side of the house cost. Thanks for the info.
Hi James,
It took about 2 weeks total. I got most of the siding removed and re-installed in the first week. Rented scaffolding made things easier and faster. I used 2" thick 4x8 sheets of rigid insulation from Lowe's. As far as cost: T1-11 about $540, Rigid insulation about $200. Paint about $250 to $300. Cedar trim $200 to $300. Add in screws, foil tape, brushes it probably cost about $1300 or $1400 for material.
I was wondering if it's best to put in Windows before or after you put up the T1-11?
If possible, it is better to buy the window with a nailing flange and install it before the siding. There are more opportunities to make a window weather tight if installed before the siding. However, replacement windows (without the nailing flange) are installed all the time after the siding is up (think of replacement window companies). So you will need to decide which way you will install the window before you purchase it.
Want to use for a cabin with the wood look. Will linseed oil work just as well as a primer?
I've only used linseed oil on tool handles and never on exterior surfaces. However, others have used it and it can be done. The biggest problem would be no UV protection in linseed oil so the wood siding would start turning gray after a year or so. Here's a product you might look into: exteriorcoatings.com/product/clear-tung-linseed-oil-wood-uv-stain/?attribute_pa_size=5-gallons&attribute_pa_color=clear&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqOXy3u6P2gIVA6dpCh3AKwA6EAQYBSABEgLSgvD_BwE
Laminate, I primed and painted before putting on. It warps on the on sunny side of the garage. If I was smart I would have put 1/2" plywood down for $20 or less a sheet then wrapped it. Then this year put Smartside vinyl siding down for $40 a 4'x8' sheet and done it right the first time. I let the carpenter talk me into this crap since he said I could just vinyl over it in a few years when I had some more cash saved up. Bad advice.
OK, thanks for this.
For rotted bottom t1-11 plywood sheets (mine are 9ft believe it or not) but the rest of board is fine.also the pattern is as chevron so it seems a bit tough to line up.
Can we just cut across the panel and add a fill in piece or is it best to just replace the whole board.
Lastly, the 2" thick foam board, taped, is a great touch.
T
Did you tape or caulk the foam to the foundation?
Caulk.
Thanks for answering my question we’re going to be building a house soon and I’m wanting to use t 1 11 for the siding, and sheathing, did you use any caulking or glue for the foam boards to studs? And how did you fasten the t 1 11 long screws?
@@Appalachiannative Congratulations on the house build. I did not use any glue between the foam boards and the 2x4s. I just used longer screws, maybe 3 1/2", to attach. Once the foam boards were attached, I covered every penetration with tape and taped all the edges of the foam boards.
@@SyberPrepper thanks we are excited about it, ok thanks that answered the question about the foam boards but what did you use to attach the T-1-11 I’m assuming long screws for that too?
@@Appalachiannative Yes, just exterior grade screws. I'm guessing 4". I don't remember exactly. The T1-11 has held up very well for me. It is very versatile and easy to work with. I did prime front and back. Some people don't believe is priming the back, but it has worked well for me. It's like an insurance policy against moisture destroying the back of the panel.
What is the name of the white paper that goes first before the sheets ?
It is commonly known as house wrap. It protects the house from wind and rain that might come through the siding, but it also allows moisture vapor to escape so the structure stays dry. Remarkable stuff.
@@SyberPrepperYour answer helps me a lot. I will keep these sheets in mind for my project. Greetings, thanks, teacher.
Is T1-11 exactly 4x8? If so..is it okay for a playhouse, no insulation?
Krystal, Yes, T1-11 is 4x8. It is used all the time for sheds and small storage barns so it would be fine for a playhouse as long as you had the proper structure/framing underneath. Insulation would be up to you. Any structure without insulation will be really hot in summer and really cold in winter. Maybe a playhouse with lots of windows could be OK without insulation. Good luck with your project.
Can someone clarify: is this configuration plywood over beams, vapor barrier then the vertical siding sheets?
This house built in the late 70's and the plastic vapor barrier is on the inside between the studs and the interior drywall. The exterior is 2" solid foam insulation, then the 3/4" T-111 plywood siding. We didn't use house wrap since the solid foam insulation was sealed with tape on the seams and then caulk at the top and bottom. Longer screws were used to make it through the T-111 exterior and the 2" solid foam to the studs.
@@SyberPrepper my question: if you removed the outside panels then you would just attach the vapor barrier to the studs?
@@vinceocratic So, normally you would have your studs, then OSB or some type of sheathing, then house wrap, then siding. There's really 2 products. There's a vapor barrier that is used on the inside between the studs and the drywall to keep any moisture from the inside of the house penetrating to the insulation causing mold or rot. On the exterior, the product is called house wrap. House wrap is different because it breathes. On the one hand it stops air and water coming from the outside, but it also has microscopic holes that allows vapor to escape.
@@SyberPrepper can I contact u personally?
Bob Ferguson
Something is broke in TH-cam or Google+ so I can't reply directly. You asked whether to use 3/8 plywood underT1-11. T1-11 is plenty strong, but since you are talking about a tiny house on a trailer, I would want the extra rigidity of plywood under the T1-11 so things don't rack while you pull the tiny house down the road. Lot's of people have tiny house videos on TH-cam so they might be a better resource. Great question.
T1-11 can be as strong as plywood. BUT, you must drive the nails through the thick portion of the board, not the narrow grooves. If you want to strengthen any plywood material, you can add glue and/or add additional nails or screws to the corner 12" area (but not tighter than 3" o.c., unless you have 3x studs.)
What did you use to nail it on
how do i run vertical band coarsing to hide the seams on the t-111 that run horizontal
Hi Vikki, I hide the horizontal seams with 8" wide cedar boards like you see in my video. I also caulk the top of the horizontal cedar trim so that no water can get down and into the T1-11. You could use narrower boards if that worked better for you. Narrower boards would be less noticeable if painted the same color as the T1-11.
I have used z flashing in the past, but I did not this time. Instead, I'm depending on caulk like OSI Quad Advanced Formula Sealant for windows, doors, and siding. I caulk where the T1-11 butts another panel and then, as a backup, caulk on top of the horizontal seam of cedar trim as I spoke about above. Everything is still holding up well after more than a year and I've not had to touchup the caulk yet.
It is structural items
It has any approved to be used for the shear
Why not use some nice siding like solid cedar or redwood?
Hi teeduck, I actually like the look of T1-11 compared to other types of siding. That's just my opinion of course. Everyone has their own views. I haven't priced siding like cedar of redwood, but I'm guessing the cost is significantly higher than T1-11. Also, installation of 4x8 sheets of T1-11 is much faster and easier than traditional siding. Just some thoughts. Thanks for the question.
Can these be installed horizontally inside of up and down?
I see no problem installing these horizontally except for extra maintenance. You would need to take extra precautions to keep the water from penetrating. The seams between panels would need to be sealed so that water could not get through. You would need to spend more time maintaining them with caulk and paint but it could be done.
yes
Can you use 4in oc? Same material
If it has the same number of layers in the wood, the 4" OC should work the same for siding.
Okay cool cuz I purchased the 4 oc with the 5 layers and going to put new siding on the house. 1500 sq foot I was just nervous because I wasn’t to sure
should i caulk the lap joints?
Hi Steve, Good question. If the joint is tight, the primer and paint seal it pretty good. However, if the joint isn't tight or there is some kind of deflection then I caulk the joint after the T1-11 is installed. The caulk I talked about in the video can be painted so no problems there. You want to keep water out, so caulk if that's what it takes.
i put T1-11 on my burn pile.
eally lol you kidding me lol
@@55tumbler nope down here in the swamp land i live in it rots so fast.
Hi Corey, Thanks for watching.
so you can use this as stand alone sideing?
Yes. In the video I show adding rigid insulation, but you could use house wrap and then install the T1-11 directly over it.
Does the exterior paint you use have a primer
Yes, the Valspar Duramax I show in the video is paint and primer in one product.
I don't think that external timber should be painted on all side because it needs to breathe
Yummy ant & squirrel food!
Cool
Wow, the price has more than doubled in the past decade.
T1 -11 now costs 55 dollars 😮
Its 43 - 44 dollars at local Home Depots where I live, still ridiculous.
Great...Thanks!
razorblade42069,
Thanks for watching.
Everything from Lowes except for the scaffolding.
The stuff soaks up paint/stain/sealer like a sponge.
Put a coat or two on.....you will be back in 2 years doing your painting again. Promise.
OK great...I would do this but hate heights..so if anyone knows the right contractor in easy Stroudsburg PA to side a 1.5 story 1600 sq ft house lets do it!
Valspar sucks! Use FLOOD with EB to get the extra bonding agent!!
I ment Z flashing
DO NOT USE THIS CRAP! You are better off slapping down plywood and waiting until you have the cash for vinyl later. I put this on one year ago and it is already coming off!! It warps, it doesn't hold on, it's cheap it's shitty! I am going to have to rip it off put playwood on and then put siding over it. To do that I have to cut the soffits and cost me way more and take way more time than to just do it right the first time!
I hate T-111. It rots all the time if it's exposed to the outside elements. I've been replacing T-111 for the past 33 years I have lived in this house in Orlando. I don't recommend T-111 as a siding option.
$
$45.00 a sheet now
3
😢
Sure wish it still was $33 a sheet. Nope, $50 in 2023!!!
33 bucks? More like 75
39$ bought some yesterday
Old, old prices..
Not a very informative video by no means