Thanks this is exactly what my truck was doing and the MAP sensor fixed it. FYI you can confirm that it is the MAP sensor by just unplugging the sensor and the truck should run fine but with a check engine light.
It is a shame that a shade tree mechanic such as yourself, after untold hours going back and forth to the auto store, buying everything in stock except the EGR (lucky you) has to be the one true and honest person to help out all the rest of us F150 owners. May God bless the rest of your truck driving miles. I'm going to call the auto store for my MAP sensor and I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks man.
I’m having similar issues. Misfire cyl1. Only happens after it runs and u stop and start it again. Replaced distributor, plugs, wires, air filter, etc still having the same issues. Any help would be great!
It was over 29 years ago I learned my lesson about these trucks which leads me to say to anyone with one of these trucks with that whacko EFI crap on the motor to just remove it. My good friend Mike had a 1990 used it for construction like all of had several trucks. We ate up every beautiful sunny weekend including Fridays one May circa 1992 or 1993 I forger which... We did not work on Fridays back then due to the contractor we worked 4. But the entire month of May we spent every weekend running back & forth to Auto Zone and Advanced had just opened in our area that summer. We replaced about everything under the hood including the intake gaskets. Everything but that blasted EGR. So 3 years ago I inherited one of these trucks from a You Tube fan of mine. It was free. I don't know say no to a free truck even if it is a Ford. I went ripped off the EFI garbage and every single sensor on that 4.9L. She now has the Offenhauser intake and Holley 4BBL and man does she run good. I also used a Manley cam shaft in her. The hell with all that EFI garbage and now U can actually tell there really is an engine in my truck because U can see it without that big retarded Tarantula on top of the motor.
@@thekingsilverado3266 I just bought a 96 with an inline 6. It runs like crap and will barely idle like the video.I don't see a MAP sensor unless the changed the looks of it. Haven't figured it out yet, but still trying. There is no evap crap on it.
my very first on was a 240 in a 69 F100, will run forever and ever, GM had a 292 six. really strong motor. and pontiac had a fuel injected one in the '70s and is aluminum.
I have a 88 f 150 4.9. I looked at this today. Went out and bought the map sensor. Only $49 And replaced it. And it is 98% better no rough idle and running smother!! Thank you !!!!
That's EXACTLY what mine is doing...Thanks so much...Can't wait to try it...You're a great dude to take time out of your life to "look out" for your fellow man...Health, freedom, love and respect to you and yours...:)
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, Oxygen sensor test, and MORE! It has Code- connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it.
Thoughtful video sharing your knowledge based on your experience; no doubt you have been a big help to many older truck enthusiasts, including the author of this short text. Thank you.
I knew it was the MAP sensor when you started talking. I did an engine swap a few years back and upon start up, I had the same issues. After going crazy trying to figure it out, I found that a mud dauber wasp had built a nest in the vacuum line to the MAP while it was disassembled. I ran a piece of wire through it and a bunch of mud and larvae came out and after that it ran just fine.
This video coulda saved me so much headache if I had seen it a little sooner! Thanks so much for the advice buddy, great informational video. You are the reason my truck is running as we speak!
Thanks for the video.I'm having the same problem with sluggish response at idle and not wanting to take the gas.Pointing out all the other items you replaced and their location on the truck was helpful. Saved me a time and money not to replace them and go right to the MAP.
syngo13 Get a code tester like the Action CP9690. It does graphing and freeze frame and has a code connect to troubleshoot most likely possibility of the problem. If you get O2 sensors running rich, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. It'd be good to replace these parts now since they're old and probably causing trouble. MAP sensors go out of spec. and cause the mixture to run richer than normal. That tester reads CTS voltage. If it says the coolent temp. is 32° but it's 80° outside, replace the CTS. It checks ABS and other things. It helped me diagnose my car QUICKLY! Older cars get a Snap-on scanner and adapters and personality keys etc.
I wanted to thank you for this video. I was going to start replacing parts, but after watching this video I did the MAP sensor and my vehicle was imidiately back to normal. Thanks again Cheers
Thanks man been having this problem with rough and high idle for a long while with my 94 ! Checked and replaced everything you mentioned and more! Will be replacing the map sensor next! Thanks for sharing the info👍
Same problem with my son's 92 F-150 ............New fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor.......the idle is very low.......thanks for the idea about the MAP sensor, I'll try that next.
@@Darkmaniac What seemed to fix it was when we bought a new gas tank, since the one on it was weeping, not dripping gas, but it was always wet..........and then since they were putting on a new tank for us i had them put on a new fuel pump and replay............then it ran and started much much better after that and seems perfectly fine now........So, i think the fuel pump even though it still worked, was not working properly......so, maybe that is the problem if you have over 150 thousand miles on your truck.
I fucking love you sir with all due respect!!!!! You have no idea wait you do have exactly an idea of what I've been dealing with! Now because of you taking your time to do this video you saved me the most valuable thing we have and that is time sir. I've been working on this 95 f150 (not a mechanic) for 2 weeks! Rewired the entire fuel system (both tanks) and after a bunch headaches your video put a end to my nightmare! I wish I could buy you a beer my man I really wish I could. Thank you sir
This was a very informative video. My 5.0 just started doing this and overheating, i guess im getting a new map sensor and a thermostat! Thanks man! Such a relief and a weight off my shoulders ive been trying to get my old ford on the road for nearly two years and ill admit i cried when it came back from.the shop doing both of these things, seems like itll never be on the road but your video gave me hope! God bless
Thank you thank you thank you so much I've taken my truck to a bunch of mechanics, can't figure out what it is, same symptoms and all. Imma give it a try and see what happens! Thank you!!!
I appreciate yall driveway mechanics posting these videos cause it helps, I just acquired a 93 f150 from my mom, it needs stuff shuts off while driving down the road so we got a fuel pump and filter some permatex for the rear differential case
My 92 was running rough and I replaced the intake manifold temp sensor and the spark plugs and it's running better now. The sensor was covered in sludge.
Omg I have been trying to track down WTF was wrong with my 302 has got to be the same thing. I have spent so much money replacing shit. No mechanics could figure it out. THANKS BRO!! Such a simple fix
Take it to a real mechanic not a guy with tools. This video is a joke and most of you are clueless as to what any of these things do, just change parts until it is "fixed"...idiots.
they are not actual mechanics then. a simple multitester and about two minutes each sensor to test them is all you need to figure out which one is not working right., this is basic stuff., find an actual mechanic who actually knows that the ECM sends 5 volts to sensors. wow..
Right on..no doubt now you're ready get a job as a tech at Ford dealer. I really appreciated very much everything About you. Very " HUMBLE " and down to the point. Not like other guy's first they talk about their pets, a whole life story. I can only imagine what you went through. Trying to fix your truck. A LOT OF TIME and MONEY AND I'M SURE FRUSTRATION..!! And now in just a few minutes 5, 10 minutes You have shared everything With people whom may have the same problem. " SAVING US TIME, MONEY AND HEADACHES. " YOU'RE AWESOME 👌 👏 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR EVERYTHING.. I WISH I COULD BUY YOU A 🍺 🍺 🍺 BEER FOR ALL THE TROUBLE..!!
Thank you so much, I found that problem. I have a v8 sensor and an i6 acm which can lead to wrong readings. It could also be because it has no power either. Thank you so much. Replaced o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor. I also replaced the coil. It runs crappy still and I changed the vacuum leaks where it goes to a default state. It ran better I replaced a lot of other things and it didn’t change.
I changed in order: spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, vacuum hoses (all of them), distributor cap and rotor, throttle position sensor, idle controller, I have been looking at the egr, I have a brand new air filter, I was looking at the oxygen sensor today (found your video), I will look at the MAP sensor today and let you know what happens.
I have an 89 f150. My truck would run rough and rich on idle. But would clean up at higher rpm. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel into the vacuum system. Also the intake gasket on the throttle body was sucked in. Btw you can usually use any thin wall hard plastic tubing to get those fuel filters off. Just cut it length wise and slip it into the fittings.
96 Inline 6 for me I’ve replaced so much. Still a rough shaky idle not stalling or anything but definitely off. Noticed my harmonic balancer was moving forward and backwards slightly and this can cause rough idle because it’s not absorbing the vibration from the engine. May be something to check in yours if the map sensor doesn’t work. I’m changing both this weekend fingers crossed it fixes my idle.
Well I got tired of my Chevy's rusting out underneath me. Last 5 Chevy's I owned are now in the junkyard because of rusted out frames. Drivetrains were all great but the frames were gone.@@JesseEdwards-d1x
Sounds exactly what I am dealing with on my 1990 F150 4.9L 4WD Manual Transmission. Going to auto parts store in the morning to buy me a MAP sensor. Keeping my fingers crossed...
Thank you for making this video and showing us "how to repair". My 93 OBS 4.9l is experiencing the same symptoms. Crossing my fingers this is the issue. #teamdiy
Mine starts, runs and dies. Unplug the sensor and nothing, the same. Cannot accelerate at all and shakes, jerks and dies, sometimes i get a pop back also but not usually but just dies out after shaking and jerking, New throttle body hardware, new aic, nothing works. I am thinking maybe the crank sensor or the reluctor in the distributor or fuel pressure like a bad pumpp even though it is new with new tanks, filter. I might add i let it run out of fuel on the road so not sure if it burnt the pump some.
Dude. I've been throwing parts at this thing since replacing my fuel pumps. The last thing you'd think of would be something that doesn't appear to be in the fuel system, WTF. I can't thank you enough.
I have a 92 e150 van with a 5.0, and it's doing the exact same thing heat and all lol I was going to go thru all them sensors, but watching your vid helped hell of a lot, I've been trying to find the right vid on here for awhile that fit my symptoms, and yours fit mine to the T, so as soon as the sun come up I'm on it! Thanx bud😎🖒
Unplug the negative lead from the battery, the unplug the connector from the MAP and put dielectric grease on the ports plug it back in, plug the cable back onto the battery and start her up! Night and day difference!
@@ricochetey he doesn't know what he's talking about. The grease is to keep air off of the electrical connections, thus preventing oxidation. An important step he forgot to mention was the gentle cleaning of connecting metals
Yeah, and clean the connectors on the other sensors too, it's common for the boot to dry out and allow moisture inside, then a few thousand heat cycles and corrosion can cause trouble to the ECU. There is also a PIP (profile ignition pickup) sensor on the distributor shaft that can ruin your day as well.
Everyone needs to use electrical spray cleaner every once in a while on their vehicles connecters and what it plugs too I do and it sure does.help it makes sense yaw all no they get a little dirty so buy a can and do it don't be Lazy it best 9 dollars you ever spent
It's ironic that I knew all the component names after researching and testing and buying and replacing to no avail, and then have you run down the list and point out that part ... I called it several names when my truck stalled it traffic though. Good video
I’ve changed fuel pump & filter, water pump, thermostat, plugs & wires, distributor & rotor, o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor. Not all but mostly trying to fix the idle. It’s a little shaky and rough not stalling out but it’s noticeably off. Looked at all my pulleys cause I noticed a chirping noice with the truck running and noticed my harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley was moving back and forth slightly. Definitely replacing it tomorrow along with the map sensor and fingers crossed my idle will be fixed 🤞🏼
Terrific video!! I have a 96 302 engine and I have replaced almost everything including just recently the engine now I can’t make it run right. I am so frustrated!!!
Get a Actron CP9690 tester. It checks live, record, oxygen sensor tests, smog readiness test, code connect to troubleshoot and MORE! Warm the engine to 2000 RPM'S for 2 minutes. After each repair, retest. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve if it has one. If you get Oxygen sensor running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor if it has one. Usually it's not the EGR position sensor. Modules don't have codes.
Sounds like pretty much every regular dude that doesn't work in mechanics: I replaced like everything I could think of ... A couple hundred dollars later I finally found the culprit! Haha I love it. It's me everytime.
@ I saw the post date after I responded. I have a 1996 E150 w/2, one at the rear (easy)collector and the other up front (unbelievable! Cut the wires after you make sure your deep well will work) They switched to OBDII in 96 that might be the difference. Thanks for your response.
Yo me and my dad appreciate you tons we did the exact same thing we slowly been replacing everything. We got a 1990 f150 4.9l sat for five years we been trying to get it fired up got it fired up the idol was absolutely shit and we messed with that sensor and it idoled like a fucking champ we took the vacuum hose off.
The plastic vacuum hoses like to crack, and rubber ones often collapse inside, so be ready to replace them all, its just cheap insurance, theres enough electrical dodads to frustrate the shit out of you, at least insure the vacuum lines are good.
I'm guessing you have a 302 v8 motor? I have 4.9 6 cylinder and I'm pretty sure there would be no coolant near the throttle assembly. I found some people saying they have coolant leaking out of *freeze plugs* near the throttle on the 302 v8. These are also being called throttle body heater hoses or throttle body heater bore plugs. Good luck, that was just a guess lol.
Some Fords would preheat the throttle body with antifreeze. It was a way to help fuel atomize when the engine was cold. Think of it as an alternative to the intake snorkel found on many carb and TBI engines.
Changed ALL that shit still stuck with the same result. Even changed my CAT and coolant temperature sensor. I think the MAP is the last thing that I can change. Crossing my fingers or else this baby is getting the hanger.
Yep, MAP sensor.. Same thing happened to me on my 4.9 E150 just wouldn’t start . My buddy’s brother had a no start problem on his Ford truck.. it was the MAP. He said try that.. I did and it started right up.
I got a 1990 F150 4.9 liter. Had head rebuilt and changed all sensors and about everything else. 2 new fuel pumps. It runs good for about half an hour or so then starts trying to miss a little bit. I can't figure it out. Any idea??
How is the distributor cap, coil, and spark plugs? Recently replaced? Also maybe consider O2 sensor. That’s a tough one. I’m not really sure just spit balling some ideas to try and help.
@@JohnSmith-cf4gn also what type of transmission and can you give a little more description on what it’s doing after 30 minutes? Is it in normal operating temperature before it starts acting up?
@BeePerky Normal temperature. Just has a miss. Thinking about it, I didn't change the distributor cap. I don't know if that would be it since it runs so good before it starts acting up.
a simple multi tester and you can test these sensors for the 5 volts to 0 volts range they should have. never just blindly toss new parts at a motor.,.... just stupid..
That was very helpful...thank you. There is a vacuum driven heater motor just to the left of MAP sensor (top left corner if you're facing the firewall). I think it opends the vents inside the cabin. The vacuum hose is broken off n I dont know where it connects to. Any suggestions?
I'm guessing you changed the throttle body gasket? These are famous for distorting causing these symptoms. There was a recall on that as well as the failure of the twin tank design.
Mines also doing this except on a 460 91 f250 and it stalls under any load thank God for the low end torque on these big blocks or I would've been stuck on a hill, any ideas if this could be the same thing?
Was that bad sensor throwing a check engine light. I'm having same problem, no acceleration, especially uphill, but no check engine light? Great video, thanks
I pulled the codes on mine, OBD1, MAP and O2 were in the stored code, I replaced the MAP with no change, I've yet to replace the O2 but sense its the TPS, could be vacuum leak, I need to pull the doghouse and get a better look at them.
Thank you so much I've been having the same problem with my truck its been turning off and having the rpms fluctuate just like that ima try this and see if it works
My truck left me stranded in the winter with 2 kids 15deg after I thought it was fixed. Luckily I am good in the woods. Never drive the truck anywhere in fear it will leave me stuck. Seems like a common problem why isn’t this more known. Thanks a bunch pal
Johnny Cash it wasn’t the map sensor for me it was the distributor pickup coil it was cutting out electricity to my motor it’s 15 dollars and a quick fix I drive a 95 f150 flareside and I couldn’t find the map sensor look in owners Manuel checked online look at every possible location it could be in and couldn’t find it. I also recommend change IAC.
James Hatfield hey James sorry to hear your having problems with ur truck I have a 95 f150 flareside couldn’t find map sensor checked everywhere and ownerns manual and couldn’t find it but the issue my truck was having was the distributor pickup coil sensor it’s 15 dollar fix and easy to do. That way kept cutting out electricity to my motor if not giving very little I also recommend to do a tune up so change spark plugs, etc. and also change iac valve sensor and the piece I mentioned and your truck should be running brand new hopefully
I'm having the same issues with my 88 F-150 it will idle in park but not great shuts off in gear less I'm I'm giving it gas, runs at highway speeds with only a little throttle hesitation... I replaced everything you pointed out including the map sensor...and no change...
all the knock sensor does it listen for knocking in the motor and retards timing if there is any., if you unplug it nd the motor speeds up any then it is probly messed up. but these are not high failure part. dont just toss random new parts on withotu a multi tester to test voltages at each sensor. waste of time and $$$ and is dumb.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It comes with a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter cable. EBAY has it.
I am having the same issue! I was driving from Texas to Colorado when all of a sudden I lost all mechanical power and started running like shown in video. ROUGH idle, sluggish, complete loss of mechanical power won’t go over 15 mph and throttle response is extremely slow and sluggish sounds like it’s starving for air. I have replaced Spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor button, fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors are fine, fuel pressure is normal, new air filter , tested my Ignition Control Module, checked my idle air control, replaced my Map sensor, checked my oil, checked coolant, no smoke is coming out, it’s not out of timing. IM OUT OF ANSWERS SOMEONE PLEASE HELP if you solved your issue with this 4.9L straight 6 another way than I have described. My van is STILL running like crap and I don’t understand it. Clogged cat? I’m out of answers and the mechanics couldn’t even figure it out
Take it to a bona fide mechanic not a shop and not a dealer. They have diagnostic tools and all these parts are connected and run by the computer. Changing parts until it seems fixed will not cut it, it will fail again soon. Your vehicle went into the "limp mode" which is what they do short of stranding you. Learn about engines and get a real mechanic. they do exist. In Colorado Springs go to Al De Mark auto mechanics.
I have the same motor in my 89 bronco it will crank over and act like its going to fire then go back to just cranking do you no what this could be wrong I had the same hesitation with idle
I hate to say but I may not have anymore videos on my ford. Someone boosted in when I stopped at QT on my way to the fire station, I had all my fire gear in it. If you happen to see a white ford 1993 f150 like the one in the video with license plate DKB-4848 please alert the authorities. It’s also posted on Facebook. I loved that truck so if you would keep your eyes open for it that would mean a lot to me.
Granted, using the shotgun approach by replacing everything one piece at a time isn't the best troubleshooting technique. But, your video IS THE BEST because it shows the rest of us WHERE EVERYTHING IS and how to remove and replace them. I was wondering, though, wouldn't a code reader tell what was wrong? I think those old Fords had the OBD I connector to hook up to. If no code reader then there is another TH-cam video showing how to use a paper clip to get the codes from a flashing light on the dash. But, for the few dollars you spent replacing everything, you now have a truck that will run great and for a long time. It's nice having a no-worry vehicle. Well worth the time, effort and cost. UPDATE - I'm about to go see a guy with a 1994 F-150 4.9L but have been worried about all that tubing and wires under the hood. You showed me where everything is and what it does which eases my mind. Surely God has led me back to this video. I did see in another video where a fellow had the same truck and no one seemed able to find the cause of his problem. What it turned out to be was that very same part that went bad with your truck. But, what caused it to go bad was water inside the case. Apparently the owner had power-washed the engine and that got water inside the case. So the mechanic bought a new valve and sealed the cover on it and the truck ran good again as it did with you, too. I also just saw a Scotty Kilmer video about how to see if your catalytic converter is bad by testing the back pressure before and after the catalytic converter. I was wondering where the oxygen sensor was on the F150 to plug in the tester and you showed me - thanks.
thats why you use a multi test to test each sensor separately for proper voltages,. 5 volts and range down to almost zero volts. very easy. instead of just blindly tossing new parts on it which is very stupid and costly.
I clean the connect ers on all the wires to everything whith Electric spray cleaner regular and you be surprised how it helps my 96 XL Pickup and make sure the end of wires are in the sockets rite and alot of things you think is Bad this fixes it
![1988 F150 Hesitation Problem [FIX!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-EihJ7hghXI/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 F150 Hesitation Problem [FIX!]](/img/tr.png)
I absolutely LOVE that you took the time to show all of the parts that you replaced. Very thorough video! Thanks!
Thanks this is exactly what my truck was doing and the MAP sensor fixed it. FYI you can confirm that it is the MAP sensor by just unplugging the sensor and the truck should run fine but with a check engine light.
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for the info on unplugging it!
unplugged the map and it still does th same
It is a shame that a shade tree mechanic such as yourself, after untold hours going back and forth to the auto store, buying everything in stock except the EGR (lucky you) has to be the one true and honest person to help out all the rest of us F150 owners. May God bless the rest of your truck driving miles. I'm going to call the auto store for my MAP sensor and I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks man.
I’m having similar issues. Misfire cyl1. Only happens after it runs and u stop and start it again. Replaced distributor, plugs, wires, air filter, etc still having the same issues. Any help would be great!
What a back handed complement bud. You prolly would've done the same thing by the sound of your gratefulness to not have to do all that
@@25centsapop, **probably
It was over 29 years ago I learned my lesson about these trucks which leads me to say to anyone with one of these trucks with that whacko EFI crap on the motor to just remove it. My good friend Mike had a 1990 used it for construction like all of had several trucks. We ate up every beautiful sunny weekend including Fridays one May circa 1992 or 1993 I forger which... We did not work on Fridays back then due to the contractor we worked 4. But the entire month of May we spent every weekend running back & forth to Auto Zone and Advanced had just opened in our area that summer. We replaced about everything under the hood including the intake gaskets. Everything but that blasted EGR. So 3 years ago I inherited one of these trucks from a You Tube fan of mine. It was free. I don't know say no to a free truck even if it is a Ford. I went ripped off the EFI garbage and every single sensor on that 4.9L. She now has the Offenhauser intake and Holley 4BBL and man does she run good. I also used a Manley cam shaft in her. The hell with all that EFI garbage and now U can actually tell there really is an engine in my truck because U can see it without that big retarded Tarantula on top of the motor.
@@thekingsilverado3266 I just bought a 96 with an inline 6. It runs like crap and will barely idle like the video.I don't see a MAP sensor unless the changed the looks of it. Haven't figured it out yet, but still trying. There is no evap crap on it.
best engine ford ever made.
Jeremy Morrissette good but needs to be taken care of
Also it would appear in a top 5 list of best inline 6 engines.
my very first on was a 240 in a 69 F100, will run forever and ever, GM had a 292 six. really strong motor. and pontiac had a fuel injected one in the '70s and is aluminum.
429 boss is fords best engine.
After watching your video, I went and replaced the MAP sensor in my 92 f250, and its running much better . Thank you.
Did you reset it? After installing bc i did try doing that but still bad
I have a 88 f 150 4.9. I looked at this today. Went out and bought the map sensor. Only $49 And replaced it. And it is 98% better no rough idle and running smother!! Thank you !!!!
Did you reset it?
That's EXACTLY what mine is doing...Thanks so much...Can't wait to try it...You're a great dude to take time out of your life to "look out" for your fellow man...Health, freedom, love and respect to you and yours...:)
My truck was having the same problem, I fixed thanks to this good, video map sensor cost $49dlls auto zone
i know it's pretty off topic but does anybody know of a good place to stream newly released series online?
@Kingsley Lincoln Flixportal :P
@Korbin Jericho thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !!
@Kingsley Lincoln you are welcome xD
Same symptoms happened to my sons 1995 f 150. Found your video, replaced MAP sensor, truck fired right up, and running like new. Thanks for the video!
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, Oxygen sensor test, and MORE! It has Code- connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it.
@@hankbridges5055 or use a paper clip for free
@@hankbridges5055 does is support obd 1? The obd2 ports weren’t introduced to the f150s until 96
Thoughtful video sharing your knowledge based on your experience; no doubt you have been a big help to many older truck enthusiasts, including the author of this short text. Thank you.
Thank you for the thoughtful message!
I knew it was the MAP sensor when you started talking. I did an engine swap a few years back and upon start up, I had the same issues. After going crazy trying to figure it out, I found that a mud dauber wasp had built a nest in the vacuum line to the MAP while it was disassembled. I ran a piece of wire through it and a bunch of mud and larvae came out and after that it ran just fine.
Those vacuum lines can cause all kinds of trouble if blocked or removed. I learned that during this process too!
This video coulda saved me so much headache if I had seen it a little sooner! Thanks so much for the advice buddy, great informational video. You are the reason my truck is running as we speak!
That’s awesome! I’m so glad your truck is back running!
Thanks for the video.I'm having the same problem with sluggish response at idle and not wanting to take the gas.Pointing out all the other items you replaced and their location on the truck was helpful. Saved me a time and money not to replace them and go right to the MAP.
syngo13 Get a code tester like the Action CP9690. It does graphing and freeze frame and has a code connect to troubleshoot most likely possibility of the problem. If you get O2 sensors running rich, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. It'd be good to replace these parts now since they're old and probably causing trouble. MAP sensors go out of spec. and cause the mixture to run richer than normal. That tester reads CTS voltage. If it says the coolent temp. is 32° but it's 80° outside, replace the CTS. It checks ABS and other things. It helped me diagnose my car QUICKLY! Older cars get a Snap-on scanner and adapters and personality keys etc.
I wanted to thank you for this video. I was going to start replacing parts, but after watching this video I did the MAP sensor and my vehicle was imidiately back to normal.
Thanks again
Cheers
I’m having same issues with my 1996 f150 5.0 v8 would it be the maf sensor?
@@Jruno I think it is the same part. I looked up both vehicles on ebay and the same part number was called out.
You just saved 2 of my trucks. 93 f150 and 2001 f150.
You are a hero!
Thanks man been having this problem with rough and high idle for a long while with my 94 ! Checked and replaced everything you mentioned and more! Will be replacing the map sensor next! Thanks for sharing the info👍
I replaced a lot of parts. All I really needed was to clean the fuel injectors with high octane fuel and fuel injector cleaner.
Thanks, my 1989 F150 just started doing this. Saw your video and under $20 it fixed it. Great Video!
Same problem with my son's 92 F-150 ............New fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor.......the idle is very low.......thanks for the idea about the MAP sensor, I'll try that next.
having the same problem did it work
@@Darkmaniac What seemed to fix it was when we bought a new gas tank, since the one on it was weeping, not dripping gas, but it was always wet..........and then since they were putting on a new tank for us i had them put on a new fuel pump and replay............then it ran and started much much better after that and seems perfectly fine now........So, i think the fuel pump even though it still worked, was not working properly......so, maybe that is the problem if you have over 150 thousand miles on your truck.
I fucking love you sir with all due respect!!!!! You have no idea wait you do have exactly an idea of what I've been dealing with! Now because of you taking your time to do this video you saved me the most valuable thing we have and that is time sir. I've been working on this 95 f150 (not a mechanic) for 2 weeks! Rewired the entire fuel system (both tanks) and after a bunch headaches your video put a end to my nightmare! I wish I could buy you a beer my man I really wish I could. Thank you sir
@@jimenezisrael44 thank you for the comment!! This makes me happy. So glad I was able to help!!
You just saved me from a new engine thanks for the post you got yourself another subscriber
This was a very informative video. My 5.0 just started doing this and overheating, i guess im getting a new map sensor and a thermostat! Thanks man! Such a relief and a weight off my shoulders ive been trying to get my old ford on the road for nearly two years and ill admit i cried when it came back from.the shop doing both of these things, seems like itll never be on the road but your video gave me hope! God bless
Thank you thank you thank you so much I've taken my truck to a bunch of mechanics, can't figure out what it is, same symptoms and all. Imma give it a try and see what happens! Thank you!!!
You did a very good job explaining your troubleshooting. Thanks.
I appreciate yall driveway mechanics posting these videos cause it helps, I just acquired a 93 f150 from my mom, it needs stuff shuts off while driving down the road so we got a fuel pump and filter some permatex for the rear differential case
My 92 was running rough and I replaced the intake manifold temp sensor and the spark plugs and it's running better now. The sensor was covered in sludge.
Omg I have been trying to track down WTF was wrong with my 302 has got to be the same thing. I have spent so much money replacing shit. No mechanics could figure it out. THANKS BRO!! Such a simple fix
Take it to a real mechanic not a guy with tools. This video is a joke and most of you are clueless as to what any of these things do, just change parts until it is "fixed"...idiots.
they are not actual mechanics then. a simple multitester and about two minutes each sensor to test them is all you need to figure out which one is not working right., this is basic stuff., find an actual mechanic who actually knows that the ECM sends 5 volts to sensors. wow..
I'm having the same issues with my truck, and this information helps tremendously. Thank you. 👍
@@lagotobluesummers7553 glad I was able to help
Right on..no doubt now you're ready get a job as a tech at Ford dealer.
I really appreciated very much everything
About you. Very " HUMBLE " and down to the point. Not like other guy's first they talk about their pets, a whole life story.
I can only imagine what you went through. Trying to fix your truck. A LOT OF TIME and MONEY AND I'M SURE FRUSTRATION..!!
And now in just a few minutes 5, 10 minutes You have shared everything
With people whom may have the same problem.
" SAVING US TIME, MONEY AND HEADACHES. "
YOU'RE AWESOME 👌 👏 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR EVERYTHING..
I WISH I COULD BUY YOU A 🍺 🍺 🍺 BEER FOR ALL THE TROUBLE..!!
Thank you so much, I found that problem. I have a v8 sensor and an i6 acm which can lead to wrong readings. It could also be because it has no power either. Thank you so much. Replaced o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor. I also replaced the coil. It runs crappy still and I changed the vacuum leaks where it goes to a default state. It ran better I replaced a lot of other things and it didn’t change.
I'm glad the video helped some! Glad you got your truck back running.
@@BeePerky problem was a v8 ecm in an i6.
I hope the truck is still running great!
@@BeePerky thank you. It’s running awesome
I changed in order: spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, vacuum hoses (all of them), distributor cap and rotor, throttle position sensor, idle controller, I have been looking at the egr, I have a brand new air filter, I was looking at the oxygen sensor today (found your video), I will look at the MAP sensor today and let you know what happens.
Fucking same man I did all that shit plus fuel injectors anew throttle body a complete new distributor
I have an 89 f150. My truck would run rough and rich on idle. But would clean up at higher rpm. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel into the vacuum system. Also the intake gasket on the throttle body was sucked in. Btw you can usually use any thin wall hard plastic tubing to get those fuel filters off. Just cut it length wise and slip it into the fittings.
With the 300 i6
Where is the regulator located, did it cause rich exhaust smell ?
I replaced everything you just mentioned but map sensor! I'll give it a shot. 94 explorer
Thank you for your time and video. My 300 is running poor and powerless. I was thinking timing...but now I have a new area to look. Thanks again.
Thank you so much. I was so close to giving up on my baby. 96 about the same model but emerald green
\o
Mine is a 93 Ford F-150 .Emerald green as well.
Thank you had the same promblem with mine
I'm glad I was able to help!
Great video man! have a '93 myself and have the symptoms you had. Luckily I have not bought a bunch of parts yet thanks to you! Cheers!
96 Inline 6 for me I’ve replaced so much. Still a rough shaky idle not stalling or anything but definitely off. Noticed my harmonic balancer was moving forward and backwards slightly and this can cause rough idle because it’s not absorbing the vibration from the engine. May be something to check in yours if the map sensor doesn’t work. I’m changing both this weekend fingers crossed it fixes my idle.
I just did the exact thing. I replaced EGR and Neutral safety switch. Still idled poorly. New MAP sensor and it runs good now. Thanks
Neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the motor at all haha. fail.
Well if a man's gonna keep his ford it don't hurt to buy some parts for it that's known to die out it make him feel better
Well I got tired of my Chevy's rusting out underneath me. Last 5 Chevy's I owned are now in the junkyard because of rusted out frames. Drivetrains were all great but the frames were gone.@@JesseEdwards-d1x
Sounds exactly what I am dealing with on my 1990 F150 4.9L 4WD Manual Transmission. Going to auto parts store in the morning to buy me a MAP sensor. Keeping my fingers crossed...
I see your video, and I yes fixed my truck, right now thank you so much for sharing, your knowledge, you save me a bunch of money 💰🙂👍
Thank you for making this video and showing us "how to repair". My 93 OBS 4.9l is experiencing the same symptoms. Crossing my fingers this is the issue. #teamdiy
Good 🎥. Always the map sensor when the car starts up fine and has a rough idle issue. Good video. 95% of the time its the MAP sensor
Mine starts, runs and dies. Unplug the sensor and nothing, the same. Cannot accelerate at all and shakes, jerks and dies, sometimes i get a pop back also but not usually but just dies out after shaking and jerking, New throttle body hardware, new aic, nothing works. I am thinking maybe the crank sensor or the reluctor in the distributor or fuel pressure like a bad pumpp even though it is new with new tanks, filter. I might add i let it run out of fuel on the road so not sure if it burnt the pump some.
I have a 91, 300 straight six. Love that truck!
@@JamesLandon-yk1no thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video, really helped me out 👍👍
I repace the fuel filter and i replace one of the fuel pumps because my e150 has 2 tanks. Is a 1988 econoline. Thanks for your video.
di the fuel filter help?
Dude. I've been throwing parts at this thing since replacing my fuel pumps. The last thing you'd think of would be something that doesn't appear to be in the fuel system, WTF.
I can't thank you enough.
I have a 92 e150 van with a 5.0, and it's doing the exact same thing heat and all lol I was going to go thru all them sensors, but watching your vid helped hell of a lot, I've been trying to find the right vid on here for awhile that fit my symptoms, and yours fit mine to the T, so as soon as the sun come up I'm on it! Thanx bud😎🖒
did you fix it yet
Unplug the negative lead from the battery, the unplug the connector from the MAP and put dielectric grease on the ports plug it back in, plug the cable back onto the battery and start her up! Night and day difference!
Ill give it a try but what does this do???
@@ricochetey Over the years they get dirty and lose conductivity.The grease makes it like new.
@@ricochetey he doesn't know what he's talking about. The grease is to keep air off of the electrical connections, thus preventing oxidation. An important step he forgot to mention was the gentle cleaning of connecting metals
Yeah, and clean the connectors on the other sensors too, it's common for the boot to dry out and allow moisture inside, then a few thousand heat cycles and corrosion can cause trouble to the ECU. There is also a PIP (profile ignition pickup) sensor on the distributor shaft that can ruin your day as well.
Everyone needs to use electrical spray cleaner every once in a while on their vehicles connecters and what it plugs too I do and it sure does.help it makes sense yaw all no they get a little dirty so buy a can and do it don't be Lazy it best 9 dollars you ever spent
I have the same problem I was thinking of changing all the parts that you did but I think I’ll start with the map sensor as well
I hope this helped and you were able to fix your truck
Thank you. Having the exact same issue. Hope that's it.
I think you're an awesome mechanic 🤗
I have 90 with the 4.9 6. Mine idles great and starts good but the acceleration sux. I'm gonna try this, thanks for the do's and don'ts!
Absolutely! I hope it helps!
Did you get yours running better?
Thanks .you saved me time and money !!
Before you changed the MAP sensor would the truck shut off when you come a stop before it warmed up ?
It's ironic that I knew all the component names after researching and testing and buying and replacing to no avail, and then have you run down the list and point out that part ... I called it several names when my truck stalled it traffic though. Good video
I’ve changed fuel pump & filter, water pump, thermostat, plugs & wires, distributor & rotor, o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor. Not all but mostly trying to fix the idle. It’s a little shaky and rough not stalling out but it’s noticeably off. Looked at all my pulleys cause I noticed a chirping noice with the truck running and noticed my harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley was moving back and forth slightly. Definitely replacing it tomorrow along with the map sensor and fingers crossed my idle will be fixed 🤞🏼
You just saved my weekend thank u bro!!
Awesome job Sir
Thanks Ruben!
Thanks for the info!
Will remember that if my ‘94 ever has that issue…
Terrific video!! I have a 96 302 engine and I have replaced almost everything including just recently the engine now I can’t make it run right. I am so frustrated!!!
I finally got it running perfectly!!!
@@vandettabuilds6641 what was the issue?
Get a Actron CP9690 tester. It checks live, record, oxygen sensor tests, smog readiness test, code connect to troubleshoot and MORE! Warm the engine to 2000 RPM'S for 2 minutes. After each repair, retest. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve if it has one. If you get Oxygen sensor running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor if it has one. Usually it's not the EGR position sensor. Modules don't have codes.
Sounds like pretty much every regular dude that doesn't work in mechanics: I replaced like everything I could think of ... A couple hundred dollars later I finally found the culprit! Haha I love it. It's me everytime.
BOTH upstream o2 sensors? There are two. You have dual exhaust to the cats.
@@logoseven3365 I’m pretty sure it was just the one upstream. It was located before bifurcation of the dual exhaust.
@
I saw the post date after I responded. I have a 1996 E150 w/2, one at the rear (easy)collector and the other up front (unbelievable! Cut the wires after you make sure your deep well will work)
They switched to OBDII in 96 that might be the difference.
Thanks for your response.
@ gotcha. Yea no problem!
Thanks for taking time to comment! Have a good day and hope that ford of yours keeps on runnin.
Thank you
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Yo me and my dad appreciate you tons we did the exact same thing we slowly been replacing everything. We got a 1990 f150 4.9l sat for five years we been trying to get it fired up got it fired up the idol was absolutely shit and we messed with that sensor and it idoled like a fucking champ we took the vacuum hose off.
The plastic vacuum hoses like to crack, and rubber ones often collapse inside, so be ready to replace them all, its just cheap insurance, theres enough electrical dodads to frustrate the shit out of you, at least insure the vacuum lines are good.
thank you for sharing, my truck, is having the same problem
Something that can cause similar issues as far as throttle response is the throttle body intake gasket. Cheap and pretty easy to fix.
sir eliot left side of the throatle my f150 1994 its leaking water, what can that be?
I'm guessing you have a 302 v8 motor? I have 4.9 6 cylinder and I'm pretty sure there would be no coolant near the throttle assembly. I found some people saying they have coolant leaking out of *freeze plugs* near the throttle on the 302 v8. These are also being called throttle body heater hoses or throttle body heater bore plugs. Good luck, that was just a guess lol.
Some Fords would preheat the throttle body with antifreeze. It was a way to help fuel atomize when the engine was cold.
Think of it as an alternative to the intake snorkel found on many carb and TBI engines.
Changed ALL that shit still stuck with the same result. Even changed my CAT and coolant temperature sensor. I think the MAP is the last thing that I can change. Crossing my fingers or else this baby is getting the hanger.
you should have tested sensors with a simple voltage multi tester, very easy to do, 5 volts. simple... wow..
Some cars and trucks use a MAF sensor instead of a MAP sensor, but the symptoms can be very similar.
MAP and MAF are different things, Manifold absolute pressure and Mass air flow
they are not same sensors true,,., but they are 5 volts same though,
Thank you so sr at work for me❤️❤️❤️
thank you for this video buddy! mine was doin this exact thing!!
Thanks!!
Yep, MAP sensor..
Same thing happened to me on my 4.9 E150 just wouldn’t start .
My buddy’s brother had a no start problem on his Ford truck.. it was the MAP. He said try that.. I did and it started right up.
That MAP sensor can mess up a lot of stuff if it’s bad!
You said something about "throttle something". Were you talking about the Throttle Position Sensor?
Youre awesome thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I literally did what you have done. This is nuts.
the large style '90s ford MAP sensors are very common for this issue. many different motors and models of cars and trucks ford.
That blu Ray quality tho
I got a 1990 F150 4.9 liter. Had head rebuilt and changed all sensors and about everything else. 2 new fuel pumps. It runs good for about half an hour or so then starts trying to miss a little bit. I can't figure it out. Any idea??
How is the distributor cap, coil, and spark plugs? Recently replaced?
Also maybe consider O2 sensor.
That’s a tough one. I’m not really sure just spit balling some ideas to try and help.
@BeePerky Thanks but I have replaced all of those.
@@JohnSmith-cf4gn any error codes or lights throwing once it starts running rough after 30 minutes?
@@JohnSmith-cf4gn also what type of transmission and can you give a little more description on what it’s doing after 30 minutes? Is it in normal operating temperature before it starts acting up?
@BeePerky Normal temperature. Just has a miss. Thinking about it, I didn't change the distributor cap. I don't know if that would be it since it runs so good before it starts acting up.
Was just telling my neighbor it is probably a map sensor, he's replaced everything you did that's the last piece.
a simple multi tester and you can test these sensors for the 5 volts to 0 volts range they should have. never just blindly toss new parts at a motor.,.... just stupid..
Good job. Too bad you had to go through all the steps, but you learned in the meantime
That was very helpful...thank you. There is a vacuum driven heater motor just to the left of MAP sensor (top left corner if you're facing the firewall). I think it opends the vents inside the cabin. The vacuum hose is broken off n I dont know where it connects to. Any suggestions?
Connects to the small can that has a lever on it, it is on the far right in plain sight if it is a F150.
Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍
I'm guessing you changed the throttle body gasket? These are famous for distorting causing these symptoms. There was a recall on that as well as the failure of the twin tank design.
was the check engine light on
Mines also doing this except on a 460 91 f250 and it stalls under any load thank God for the low end torque on these big blocks or I would've been stuck on a hill, any ideas if this could be the same thing?
Was that bad sensor throwing a check engine light. I'm having same problem, no acceleration, especially uphill, but no check engine light? Great video, thanks
I pulled the codes on mine, OBD1, MAP and O2 were in the stored code, I replaced the MAP with no change, I've yet to replace the O2 but sense its the TPS, could be vacuum leak, I need to pull the doghouse and get a better look at them.
Thank you sir!
Thanks! Very helpful. Cheers
Thank you so much I've been having the same problem with my truck its been turning off and having the rpms fluctuate just like that ima try this and see if it works
hey henry. my truck keeps stalling and rpm also fluctuates .did the map sensor fix your issues??
My truck left me stranded in the winter with 2 kids 15deg after I thought it was fixed. Luckily I am good in the woods. Never drive the truck anywhere in fear it will leave me stuck. Seems like a common problem why isn’t this more known. Thanks a bunch pal
Johnny Cash it wasn’t the map sensor for me it was the distributor pickup coil it was cutting out electricity to my motor it’s 15 dollars and a quick fix I drive a 95 f150 flareside and I couldn’t find the map sensor look in owners Manuel checked online look at every possible location it could be in and couldn’t find it. I also recommend change IAC.
James Hatfield hey James sorry to hear your having problems with ur truck I have a 95 f150 flareside couldn’t find map sensor checked everywhere and ownerns manual and couldn’t find it but the issue my truck was having was the distributor pickup coil sensor it’s 15 dollar fix and easy to do. That way kept cutting out electricity to my motor if not giving very little I also recommend to do a tune up so change spark plugs, etc. and also change iac valve sensor and the piece I mentioned and your truck should be running brand new hopefully
I think you just solved my problem.
I'm having the same issues with my 88 F-150 it will idle in park but not great shuts off in gear less I'm I'm giving it gas, runs at highway speeds with only a little throttle hesitation... I replaced everything you pointed out including the map sensor...and no change...
Have u tryed the knock sensor inbetween the coil and the distributor? Unplug it see if it makes a difference.
all the knock sensor does it listen for knocking in the motor and retards timing if there is any., if you unplug it nd the motor speeds up any then it is probly messed up. but these are not high failure part. dont just toss random new parts on withotu a multi tester to test voltages at each sensor. waste of time and $$$ and is dumb.
Thank you! helped alot
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It comes with a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter cable. EBAY has it.
I am having the same issue! I was driving from Texas to Colorado when all of a sudden I lost all mechanical power and started running like shown in video. ROUGH idle, sluggish, complete loss of mechanical power won’t go over 15 mph and throttle response is extremely slow and sluggish sounds like it’s starving for air. I have replaced Spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor button, fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors are fine, fuel pressure is normal, new air filter , tested my Ignition Control Module, checked my idle air control, replaced my Map sensor, checked my oil, checked coolant, no smoke is coming out, it’s not out of timing. IM OUT OF ANSWERS SOMEONE PLEASE HELP if you solved your issue with this 4.9L straight 6 another way than I have described. My van is STILL running like crap and I don’t understand it. Clogged cat? I’m out of answers and the mechanics couldn’t even figure it out
Take it to a bona fide mechanic not a shop and not a dealer. They have diagnostic tools and all these parts are connected and run by the computer. Changing parts until it seems fixed will not cut it, it will fail again soon. Your vehicle went into the "limp mode" which is what they do short of stranding you. Learn about engines and get a real mechanic. they do exist. In Colorado Springs go to Al De Mark auto mechanics.
Check your butterfly flaps leading into your intake manifold. May be clogged and not opening up smoothly
Mine was they sold me a wrong part. I. C. M. . Check your colors for the right one
Great video 👍
Same exact symptoms but that part didn't do anything to my bronco
I have the same motor in my 89 bronco it will crank over and act like its going to fire then go back to just cranking do you no what this could be wrong I had the same hesitation with idle
I hate to say but I may not have anymore videos on my ford. Someone boosted in when I stopped at QT on my way to the fire station, I had all my fire gear in it. If you happen to see a white ford 1993 f150 like the one in the video with license plate DKB-4848 please alert the authorities. It’s also posted on Facebook.
I loved that truck so if you would keep your eyes open for it that would mean a lot to me.
Brutal man! That sucks! I ahd a 93 f150 that got rear ended and totaled. Had 342 000 miles.
Granted, using the shotgun approach by replacing everything one piece at a time isn't the best troubleshooting technique. But, your video IS THE BEST because it shows the rest of us WHERE EVERYTHING IS and how to remove and replace them. I was wondering, though, wouldn't a code reader tell what was wrong? I think those old Fords had the OBD I connector to hook up to. If no code reader then there is another TH-cam video showing how to use a paper clip to get the codes from a flashing light on the dash. But, for the few dollars you spent replacing everything, you now have a truck that will run great and for a long time. It's nice having a no-worry vehicle. Well worth the time, effort and cost.
UPDATE - I'm about to go see a guy with a 1994 F-150 4.9L but have been worried about all that tubing and wires under the hood. You showed me where everything is and what it does which eases my mind. Surely God has led me back to this video. I did see in another video where a fellow had the same truck and no one seemed able to find the cause of his problem. What it turned out to be was that very same part that went bad with your truck. But, what caused it to go bad was water inside the case. Apparently the owner had power-washed the engine and that got water inside the case. So the mechanic bought a new valve and sealed the cover on it and the truck ran good again as it did with you, too. I also just saw a Scotty Kilmer video about how to see if your catalytic converter is bad by testing the back pressure before and after the catalytic converter. I was wondering where the oxygen sensor was on the F150 to plug in the tester and you showed me - thanks.
Code reader didn't show it on my neighbor's Reader
thats why you use a multi test to test each sensor separately for proper voltages,. 5 volts and range down to almost zero volts. very easy. instead of just blindly tossing new parts on it which is very stupid and costly.
I clean the connect ers on all the wires to everything whith Electric spray cleaner regular and you be surprised how it helps my 96 XL Pickup and make sure the end of wires are in the sockets rite and alot of things you think is Bad this fixes it
Thanks for the tip!
Very good clip!!! Could u please tell where is the PCV valve? Thank you!!!
@@jima3129 no it pcv means positive crankcase ventilation
I’m having same issues with my 1996 f150 5.0 v8 would it be the maf sensor?