Another HVAC system not cooling from sensor issues.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Temperature sensor failures are becoming more common with HVAC systems.
#hvac #hvaclife #airconditioning #ac #airconditioner #coolingsystem #cooling #heatpump #hvactech #hvacservice #hvacrepair
I like how your installers affix the paperwork to the side of the unit. Nice job. I mostly install an SS2 to the secondary condensate plug to shut the unit down when the primary clogs as it sure beats having to vacuum out the pan when things back up. Thanks for video!
Our inspectors prefer adding the easy trap switch on the primary to accomplish that and add the secondary overflow in case the primary switch fails.
If you want a cheap system with a high price. Get a trane lol.
The older TAM's with the two thermistors do a fudged computation for evap sat temp on the orange wired sensor actual temp reading down by approximately 6 degs F to account for flow pressure drop across evaporator coil. The TAM X added a mid-evaporator thermistor in attempt to get a more direct saturation temp near mid coil. Problem is that middle placed optimum thermistor position for evap saturation temp changes location depending on evap heat loading.
I believe the orange leaded sensor fudge is -5.5 degs F to -6.5 degs F for saturation temp with nominal of -6 degs F based on EEV opening amount correlating to more or less refrigerant flow and evap coil resistance pressure drop.
I believe the new thermistor part number is due to the plastic added to thermistor which makes them less dependent on thermal insulating wrap which techs often leave off or it falls off on its own.
Neither method is perfect and deviates when abnormal conditions occur like a rainstorm drastically bringing down refrigerant pressure in outside condenser causing starvation to EEV input or being a little low on refrigerant charge. On TAM's with CDM monitors, check out EEV position when a heavy rainstorm happens. EEV often goes to fully open position, particularly if system is just a little low on refrigerant.
Would be much better if Trane sprung the extra few dollars for suction line pressure transducer to do a proper superheat measurement. Thermocouples are more reliable than thermistors, but again, costs a few cents more for the thermocouple reading circuitry.
A suggestion why don't you buy foam gasket and put it around the areas that leak air, and buy split rubber grommets around the line set opening? That's what I did for my Trane blower. You can make a template and cut them ahead of time and give to install crew to put on. I've done it on old, new equipment. Works good. These manufacturers are going over board with All these gadgets, sell sell sell, lolol. Great video as always Charles thank you for your time n education.
My only issue with foam in a can is it's a mixture of open and closed cell stuff so I don't like it grommets are awsome but I think silicone is much better and maybe some polyiso board of needed. Problem is taking your time with the silicone.
@@gabrielstern4992 Not spray foam in a can. Foam rolled gasket it comes in different sizes and widths. Sticky on one side smooth on other. Rubber grommets ya can get at HF, or anywhere. Looks better. But you can use silicone like ya said ya gotta take ya time. Using the mentioned items would work and wouldn't take time to do.
I'm honestly really disappointed to hear that trane, or any company for that matter, would actively try to make it harder for a technician to work on their equipment. What a shame! This new world has such a bad outlook on everything.
I'm so glad the company I work for stopped selling these pieces of junk
amen
I only like Rheem, Goodman. Might be cheap but works Great.
Agree. I’ll take a bare bones basic system that I can work on without a tablet and, you can bet it’s coming, software that we’ll have to pay a monthly subscription to have.
Right to repair.
Sent here by Ted. I also subscribed. Good luck!
The inspector always knows what is "best" don't they?
Thanks! Ted is a good guy, keeps it real and simple. Too many people make this work appear more complicated than it is, trying to re-invent the wheel. Yes there are difficult issues that arise, but having a good base with the basics will always be a techs best tool.
Looks like you have a HAM radio habit! My dad has been in that since the 70"s, a lot of radios and a big antenna in the back yard. His call sign is AC4FZ, Lillington NC. He is 73 and still gets on, but not as much as he use to. Last week he spoke to someone over seas, he always enjoys that and collecting QSL cards
99% of my warranty work last year was trane. Compressors, indoor coils, caps all less than 5 years. Some 1-3 years
Use a SS2 switch and it eliminates you having to vacuum a pan full of water much much easier to unclog a drain and dump the lil bit of water in the SS2
Until the SS2 sensor fails and the unit floods everywhere. I've had that happen.
We use Easy traps and switch on the primary as seen To accomplish that same goal and run the overflow to the pan with a pan switch to prevent the equipment from flooding if that switch were to fail.
@@myHVAClife This is the way. It's also nice that more and more units/thermostats are starting to have a separate wiring hookup for these safety switches, so they can handle a drain switch more gracefully. After the first SS2 switch failed on my unit, the installers had wired it to disable the unit totally instead of using the aux sensor connections. I replaced it and changed the plumbing to allow for water to drain off from the secondary into a controlled location while the backed up primary could still trip the new SS2 switch, and then wired the SS2 into the aux hookup and now the unit will disable the cooling side but keep the blower fan running to help draw off the moisture faster and the thermostat sends an alert code saying water sensor tripped. The unit stops producing more water, continues to circulate cooler air and sends an alert so the problem can be addressed quickly and any potential water damage can be minimized/mitigated as well.
The secondary is the emergency plan, so many installs put the float switches on the secondary circuit and rely on the switch to just work. Well by the time the switch works in that regard the problem is already pretty bad, and if it doesnt work the problem is likely even worse. Switch should go on the primary line.
TAM4 air handlers just suck from all the videos I have seen of them with all the issues they have.
It's working too well, so let's change this.
Where to connect emergency pan float switch? 1. As external sensor to J5 of control board or 2. Break Y1 circuit? Thanks
We break R to the tstat to shut it down. Do not trust the units external switch settings due to so many other things that do not seem reliable with systems these days.
Great video to explain how lousy new stuff is. Full of cheap sensors, poor workmanship from the factory, poor cabinet design regarding air leakage and all of the things that need to be done to get them to pass any inspection, most of them unnecessary and usually lower grade quality due to field techs having to get themt to work correctly.
Just like a new vehicle, full of cheap electronics and no one to fix them right the first time. Next thing we will see are specialized "scanners" that techs will need to get pointed into the right direction in repairs that will likely take longer to diagnose, just like on vehicles. No thank you...I'll take a Goodman single stage 80% any day.
And this most expensive unit you can buy 😂😂😂
I do not understand the need for a trap on a positive pressure drain
Did you miss the part where he said the inspector will fail them if he feels any air leakage?
RTFM
@@Austin23191 How would you feel air leakage without a trap unless you go outside where the drain terminates
Good video Charles I still don't get it with trane, Lennox, carrier why can't they just do a, simple micro inverter system with a side discharge condenser like the gree flex and pioneer. I mean come on trane in Canada even sells the trane resolute which is a rebadged gree flex.
And Charles I hate diakin who bought Goodman too.
Come on American companies buy and study the gree flex and figure out how to make it better so we can kick china's butt tired of everything bieng made in China and them doing it better than us that needs to change. Now south Korea Japan okay but enough with Chinese everything and the overcomplicated propritiary communicating stuff with American companies just for inverter technology you don't need to do that for energy efficiency and for the condenser to ramp up and down.
You know the old adage keep it simple stubid while it's possible to have state of the art technology and still keep it pretty simple.
Just my thoughts charles.
They "Trane" actually do make a side discharge version of the XV variable speed unit, we just do not use them. I agree, They are an overcomplicated headache. And for the price, I see no way for the homeowner to ever see savings long term, especially when you add in the warranty repairs that they all have at some point.
@@myHVAClife I think I saw what you are mentioning awhile ago but I think trane had issues with the side discharge version I really wish trane would strike a deal to bring thier rebadged gree flex to the US instead of just bieng in Canada and yes the trane rebadged gree flex might be more expensive in Canada but trane at least has a much better warranty VS gree and the bebadged Mr cool universal so Charles if you encounter a mr cool universal unit know it's a rebadged gree flex so if you need to get parts just look up parts for a, gree flex unit. Considering how Mr cool is. As for their mini splits chances are it's made by gree or midea. But put it this way for a mini split I would rather get a pioneer because they don't push those junky quick connect no vac linesets if you look at the Cooper pipe it looks like stove pipe. But Charles you are right even if you buy a diy call a pro. Or at least know what you are buying first.
Ahh the Mr cool universal VS gree flex it's like toyota corrola VS geo prism except the Mr cool universal has exactly all the same parts and colors with no diference except the ahra ratings is not on the Mr cool but it's on the gree flex.
junk