Yes! Great to see you working on this also. Your test setup is pretty much what I came up with for a future video, but you did a much better job of it. I've been working on a variety of coating methods for comparison. In recent experiments I found that barium sulfate and calcium carbonate pigments have near equal performance if used in the snow scattering acrylic base from my earlier video, with barium only slightly pulling ahead. I hit about 4C below ambient with the coatings facing directly toward the sun. I hope my experiments past and future help you develop this into a practical diy solution for everyone.
It's great to see multiple people coming up with similar solutions independently, it tells me I'm on the right track. The next iteration for me would be to get the benefits of gravity and state change by constructing a heat pipe with something like acetone or toluene as a working fluid, put the condensing end in the dewar connected to the panel and the evaporative end in a dewar of it's own. The great thing about thermodynamics is it's just moving heat around or converting it to a different type of energy.
Would love to see this added to thermo electric modules. Yes they are inefficient, but a bunch of them at low voltage is still a cheap solid state heat pump. Cooling smaller spaces like a trailer, shed, or single room on low total power should be possible. Perhaps a ground loop to dissipate would compensate for the inefficient TEC's and bring total system efficiency up to mini split levels. Like, ebay 6 TEC water to air module in series at 14v, heating water/cooling room- hot water to ground loop- to black body radiator- back to TEC module. You'd have to come up with a way to deal with indoor condensation, but the TEC's would have their hot side being cooled well below ambient temps. With enough ground heat dissipation, one should be able to crank up the voltage/power on the TEC's during the day to get useful BTU's when necessary and when solar power is available.
Thanks for the feedback! I found that a significant improvement occurred when I blended spherical barium sulfate nanoparticles with different SIZES. I ran the formulation at four different temperatures to generate specific diameter particles. This allows for efficient densification. Minimizing the acrylic fraction helped a little more.
I’m fascinated by the potential of this. I live in a desert and during the summer months, our electricity bills skyrocket; if we could make passive cooling work for residential housing, it would be revolutionary. I’ll be studying this further, thank you so much for sharing your process and discoveries!
I agree, I also live in a desert gets hot during the summer around 120°f Although, I think while this is a great project with a lot of potential in these hotter areas it might be best as a cost saving measure as better insulation for already existing measures
I'll bet your ground temperature a few feet down is in the 60F range. Just one 50 or 100 foot loop would probably give you cold water to circulate in a radiator with a small pump to cool your house. If you do, let me know the results.
You're a good dude. As well as your son. I appreciate the quality of the presentation as well as the topic itself. A 20 minute video takes many hours to put together. I appreciate the effort.
Hey again Mr Ingredients. I've made this comment before but I feel its important so I want to say again, it is so cool that you do these projects with your son and how you nearly always say "we" instead of "I" when explaining the processes. My parents live 1100 miles away from me now, and I really miss doing projects and experiments with my dad. Keep these awesome videos coming!
He goes into detail that is obvious (unnecessary) to serious observers. Additionally… there really is no practical application for this. Radiant heat works because heat goes up.- tie in cold water and you’re just making the floor cold. Even that depends on the type of flooring you want. Also, the vast majority of homes domestic and worldwide don’t currently employ any kind of geothermal or radiant heating system. (As such installation is usually done before the house is constructed).
This is ONE OF THE BEST channel I have ever seen for CORE TECH content. I dont know what is your day job, but someone giving away such info is just amazing. I live in 38 - 48 degree area with 60-90% humidity 8 months of the year. I have been looking for passive cooling for so long. Never found such deep tech content. What a time to be alive.
I am so glad that you are back and doing videos after the accident, i find all of your videos very interesting! I hope you are fully recovered and keep up the good work!
Thank you for sharing this so far. Please remember to do the follow-up video. I very much want to learn about the daytime efficiency and the coating. I'm in Florida, and the summers are brutal here. Any improvements that I can make would be very much appreciated.
My grandfather built their house with passive solar in mind. A 4ft deep space sits under the house, with river stone as its bed. The entire front face of the house has a sun space going up over 2 stories. This allows for airflow from underneath the house to pull heat from the rest of the house forward. It’s pretty effective, though you have to work to ensure that cool nights flow into the house and then seal it up during the day, at least in heatwaves like the one we’re in now. It does have its limits, as the 100+ F temperatures we’re experiencing now mean the upper floors get quite warm, but we have been able to keep the downstairs between 68-74F throughout the day. With such a house design, even small AC input would make a large difference, minimizing energy consumption.
17:20 - Just a safety note, please wear a respirator whilst spraying paint. Those spray guns do an excellent job of atomising paint making it super easy to breath in and lungs don't deal well with paint, especially in the long term. Ear protection for the high airflow blower powering your spray gun wouldn't be a bad idea either.
well spotted. In the navy some jobs are 30 minutes kitting up and 30 seconds to perform the task but it's all Regs. Clearly in combat all this rigmarole goes over the side lol
I've been playing with infrared thermometers and thermal imaging cameras lately, so it's great to have your explanations of some of these phenomena. In particular I've noted: - the coldness of the sky (which often measures -40 to -60 degC) - the opacity of glass to IR - the transparency of certain plastics to IR - the high reflectivity of certain rocks and ceramics - the way a dull (e.g. galvanised or brushed) metal surface acts as a much clearer mirror in the infrared (presumably the longer wavelengths in IR are less affected by the surface roughness) - the way splashes of water stand out as colder than their environment, and remain colder as they evaporate, eventually leaving the surface still cooler than the surroundings
When water evaporates it takes away some heat from the environment next to it. There are some examples of passive air conditioning systems that use this (particularly ancient ones) edit: forgot to mention its called evaporative cooling
I think the sky is simply not able to be read by the camera because there's nothing close enough to bounce off of, it's not a real reading. So it defaults to the lowest measurement the camera can display. Likewise glass and reflective metals and certain plastics bounce or fail to "catch" the infared laser to be measured. Water cools as it evaporates and takes heat from everything around it.
Mate, you are truly a diamond on here. Its amazing what you do, and I am consistently blown away at the progress you are making. You are changing the world man.
@@TechIngredients Ain't something to think "Wow" about. That probably sounds dick-ish, prima facie, but it isn't. if you chew on it, you'll soon realize that it's complimentary as can be, as we who attempt outside of the box critical/practical thinking, applied to VERY real (mostly third-world) problems, often tend to lose sight of the MASSIVE implications and direct lifestyle impacting effects that efficiently shaving a penny off of modern inefficiencies (and doing so by utilizing "Low-Cap" barriers to entry priced tech, WILL, most certainly, modify the cost of living by several pennies to "We The People" ... ... specifically in those areas of the Third World where I have Operated out of (Thinking "Horn Of Africa" in my recently retired Military mind/experience) and have personally seen the day-to-day life that the folks who have almost NOTHING left to spare in order for them to actively solve major, real-time day-to-day life's problems ... this inability DIRECTLY affecting their quality-of-living and keeping them SQUARELY strapped into the socio-economic shackles (of the back-most seats of the Struggle Bus that WE (Western ,First-World types, see as a huge hurdle. That Bus is running on maybe 2 of 8 engine cylinders, and just CAN NOT quite crest the peak of Poverty Hill, then becoming able to coast downhill toward the self sufficient zone. This is akin to clean water access or suitable food security. Without these things, I see desperate conditions that foster opportunistic straight-up SHIT-bags ... (i.e. Warlord types that view these good intentioned rural folks as merely expendable cannon fodder, at best) ... to continue to exploit the weaknesses inherent in the world below the Poverty Line. (War-Lords ... Wal-Marts ... you get the idea) That's a mouthful of too many words to describe the blunt fact that efficient cooling, without the massive energetic costs (compared to the - RELATIVELY speaking - quite wealthy Western Working Class' costs ... represented as a percentage of "expendable income") that stand between THEIR lives and everyone else's refrigerated life's experiences. I think deeply about this stuff as I watch the elders in the Djiboutian and Ethiopian and Somali tribal communities cave to the "paths of least resistance" corrupt Bullies, who dangle tiny snack sized servings of basic human needs in front of them, just like a carrot on a God-dammed STICK.. I'm looking at what you, and what the other commenters that are working on these particular puzzles, as being akin to the clean water solutions being put forth. These are impoverished People not able to compete as participants in the markets without permission from these heartless power manipulators who hand out Khat to the young Men (in the West, we just call them "Boys") so that they might use that stimulant with strong appetite suppressive characteristics, to pick up a Kalashnikov and BOOM ... ... We've got another child-soldier. And I'm no good at truncating a message like this into a TL/DR version. ("Clif" disapproves of the length of my "Notes". But I'll try. TL/DR: Your word "Wow" in reply to the last poster saying that you are changing the world, would indicate that you don't see yourself as working on something profound and life changing. But if you relax your eyeballs' focus, you can see farther out. MUCH farther out. Hope you followed my ramble and understood where I am coming from. I mean what I say because I've seen what I've seen. And we, as Human Beings, can do a Helluvalot better than we are ... at present. ROCK ON!!!
The Royal Institution had a surprisingly interesting lecture here on TH-cam on the subject of air conditioning. The lecture can be found under the name "The Physics of Hot Air - with Shaun Fitzgerald". It really opened my eyes to how complicated it is to design a building with good natural air flow and how much power savings there could be had if the air would naturally flow through the structure instead of forcing it through with machinery.
A book, Architecture Without Architects by Bernard Rudofsky, mentions this principle with many examples throughout history. Uts shows great insight how civilizations survived 1000s of years with electricity or AC.
Actually it isnt and wasnt. Old houses are situated so they face the sun rise and set. They have windows placed to create even air flow. Hell the condos in California would stay cool all day if you kept the doors shut. Because of the concrete pads that had absorbed moisture. Then you leave the windows open at sunset and let the cold back in. Hmm a box with 2 holes on opposite sides what would happen if wind blew against it? The complicated parts would be how do we do this for skyscrapers or buildings with delicate instruments in it like servers? We need to control humidity and a system that free flows cant do that. Anyway cooling is simple when you have relative humidity and temps outside. Your foundation acts like a cave absorbing moisture and releasing it through the day. If humidity is too high you cant cool off. The biggest issue is heating. How do we move heat without wasting it.
It is so insanely refreshing to see a video from someone on TH-cam that not only knows what they're talking about, but can explain it in detail and doesn't shy from difficult topics. Finally a TH-camr that doesn't make me feel pandered to with no content that feels dumbed down. Overall very fantastic, this is currently my favorite channel!
@@justmengracie It's a made-up word so it matters little anyway - "Are isn't" isn't valid grammatically. If we're following the concatenation guidance of conventional English, it'd be a'in't.
I absolutely love how you explain things. Most of your topics are taught at university, but students barely understand them, if at all. Your explanations are much, much better and I've had a lot of concepts sink in properly and finally make sense after watching your videos. Please keep it up, you're doing everyone a great service in making the science fun and accessible and practical at the same time!
Be very very careful about just cooling down your floor or radiators. If you don't have the temperatures and humidities right, you're going to have water condensing in places you absolutely don't want it. If this happens under your flooring, you'll have mold and rot in no time.
I saw an article on this very topic somewhere. There's a large public building in Toronto, tons of glass, very big sun load. They use radiant cooling in the floors with a buffer tank and a mixing valve tied to zone hygrometers so the cooling loop is always a few degrees above dewpoint. They still have fan coils to catch the latent humidity and a few extra degrees of sensible, but it's waaaay smaller than it would have to be, compared to conventional.
@@bakedbeings ehhh it would be counterproductive to dehumidify and then REHUMIDIFY. I've seen some info on indirect evaporative cooling that always seems to be 5 years away from commercialization. I myself nerded up (with zero practical engineering experience) on coupling the old railroad steam ejector chillers with desiccant beds that would be recharged with solar thermal. But in the end, it ends up being a Rube Goldberg contraption that would be twice as big, three times as expensive and one-fourth as efficient, as the plain old vapor compression AC systems in common use. But I do think a sea change in how we heat and cool our spaces is coming. This high-emissivity radiant technology is one of them. Simple, low-complexity and easily replicated using common hardware store parts. DIY solar thermal panels aimed south and DIY lunar panels aimed north. Sharing a buffer tank to store heat and 'coolth' as the seasons demand. This is not far from what Messana is doing with their radiant ceiling panels, except they use a Rheem Marathon tank and a air/water heat pump.
@@bakedbeings condensing water wastes a lot of heat deficit. Granted if you evaporated it somewhere else you would be left with transport losses but still it is better not to unnecessarily condense water.
I love passive cooling experiments! Thanks for bringing this to the fore! I know you weren't able to mention every single detail, but nevertheless it should be noted that on the vast majority of nights when cooling is most needed there will also be high humidity, which means condensation. Any condensation that forms on this special coating will temporarily nullify its special properties, since the water droplets will become the new radiating surface. Therefore it is crucial to eliminate the potential for condensation to form on the coating. This can be done by completely sealing off the area between the plastic wrap and the coating, and only allowing outside air to equalize any pressure difference after entering that area through a port containing a reservoir of a strong desiccant material. The desiccant would obviously have to be maintained by periodic regeneration. All very doable things. I imagine that the special coating would be a material that has a very narrow emissivity band exactly coinciding with the transparency window of the atmosphere. I just recently read a paper about some extensive research and experimenting that was done to accomplish this. They were able to consistently achieve (when clouds were not a major issue) much colder than ambient temperatures, I want to say somewhere around 20 degrees C colder or more. In fact, they found that this passive cooling actually works best during the day (obviously due to the higher temperature difference between earth and sky during the day). Now the caveat is that these very large temperature differences below ambient can only be maintained when as much heat load as possible is eliminated from the radiator. So if you actually want to tap into that potential and use it to cool something, that sub-ambient difference will be significantly less. So there would be a sweet spot where you would achieve maximum benefit from this setup. If you radiate at near ambient temperatures, your heat dissipating capacity will be the highest because of Plank's law. But your cooling fluid would only be cooled to ambient temperatures, which would be almost useless. If you try to achieve max temperature differential, your radiator will be super chilled, meaning you will be removing very little heat. One way to ensure max efficiency of this setup would be to do it in stages. The first stage of sub-cooling could be perhaps a much larger panel set up all around the super-chill panel in the middle, and this pre-chill panel would not need tall aluminum blinders on the sides to cut out the incoming radiation from trees and buildings and such. It would take advantage of a greater percentage of the open sky, thereby dissipating more total heat, but would only go a little bit below ambient. Then the fluid would enter the center panel setup (the super-chiller) which has taller aluminum blinders, where it would do the limbo and see just how low it can go.
I was looking at using heat pipes to transfer heat which is just a evacuated tubing with refrigerant like ammonia and possibly some high surface area working area like sintered copper. But then life hit me and my lack of programming skills became apparent for data logging. I’m working on it, but if I just bought this stuff it would be $500
Just an curiosity question. Is there a gas that would expel moisture as well as provide or enhance transparency to IR? If we are sealing it would argon or others be of benefit? I've looked at the backyard geo thermal tie in on AC and that seems like it will still provide better cooling at 6' depth than the differential on this exchanger. My worry is that the heat sink of the back yard will eventually reach an uptake equilibrium with days of pumping heat into it.
@@test-sc2iy Yeah, that could definitely use a few paragraph breaks. I think it's just my mentality for comments on TH-cam; they just kind of progress in my mind as one fluid thought chain. Organizing into paragraphs is a step I would do if I were looking to write my own essay or publish my thoughts more professionally. But it might be worth a try to do it in a comment, lol.
hi there, hi agree with you that condensation would form a layer of water that overcomes the emissivity of the special coating. However, if I recon well, H2O itself has an excellent emissivity in the 9-13um IR window too, maybe 95% of a black body or so. One can thus engineer a system to constantly have a layer of condensed water, like a tiny pond, and be fairly happy with that too rather than going through the costs and hasselts of coating a "special" emissive layer.
Man, the content you guys produce here is just grade A (as in awesome) stuff. Your methods of implementation are always explained in such a pristine way.
You can never have too many clamps….❤ I’m not a technical kind of person in any way, but my dad was. That line totally reminds me of my dad. ❤️❤️ Love it!
You are an excellent lecturer. It is so easy to follow along with your lesson. It is the cadence and the tempo and the tone of voice that you use that carries so well.
@@TechIngredients Been looking at costing for a 3D gyroid infill metal printed heat exchanger for custom HVAC ait-liquid but above my price range possible
Henry Roof Coating, white, has this property. It is used on RV roofs, school buses, and other applications to reflect up to 98% of sunlight and heat. You can get it at Home Depot or any roofing supply.
@@TechIngredients We're you a teacher or professor at some point in your life? You are very good at describing a multitude of science topics and keep people engaged in your creative projects. From jet engines to rockets and air conditioning you name it, you've covered so many topics, my kind of channel indeed. Would have loved to have you as a science teacher in high school even though your much beyond high school level teaching. P.S. I'm the guy that asked you before what you thought about nitric acid as an oxidizing agent in hybrid rocket motors and you said you didn't like it because it was too caustic and I would need some way to pressurize the container, I can't remember your exact response so please forgive me. I decided to pursue it anyways and you were right, Its hard to find a container for it and the spray nozzle must be made from a plastic designed for oxidizing acids. Not cheap, and I believe a graphite rocket nozzle would erode rather quickly. I've looked into 3D printing my own rocket nozzle that can hold up to the heat and corrosiveness of such a reaction. Hard to accomplish for an amateur rocket builder. Not to mention the toxicity. I'm going to keep pursuing that or hydrogen-peroxide still while practicing all safety precautions. Also, I wish you to revisit hydrogen production via electrolysis. There have been a few papers discussing urea as an electrolyte that can reduce the required energy needed for creating hydrogen. I plan on using carbon electrodes plated in copper and then nickle using urea as an electrolyte (also some KOH) to make an effective and cheap HHO generator. So no platinum. Also placing strong magnets in reverse polarity on each side of the cell will aid in the electrolysis producing more hydrogen hopefully getting more energy output to input ratio. This is all just from documents I've read on the subject. Robert Murray-Smith has made a few videos on the subject as well as his channel is devoted to energy production mainly, you should check him out if you haven't already. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge with all of this.
"Air is actually a great insulator when it isnt moving, its the air bubbles in the foam that do the insulation not the foam itself" You unlocked a pretty deep intuition with that one in me, thank sir, may I have another.
This is why on a still cold morning, if you stand still, you will keep warm. Wind kills. And why loose clothes, like pyjamas are strangely warmer than tight fitting insulating clothes.
I wish you would do series on making a super efficient camper. Combine all your cooling / insulating / solar energy experiments into making a super efficient camper.
Very interesting, I recently got myself a Thermal Camera and while pointing it around I couldn't help but notice that the sky had between -50C to -70C. I was already wondering how that temperature came together, the more you know!
I think its a bit of a "optical illusion". because most of the air above you is colder than the surface air, it only loses energy to the air above it. so very little infrared radiation reaches the surface from the air above. because for example, the air in the stratosphere is well above -50C, but the radiation it releases can't reach you. if I'm not mistaken its also a misconception with the greenhouse effect of the planet, its not that the radiation gets reflected back, the planet just get less efficient at radiating energy up to space.
I too have used a FLIR camera at my work 20+ years ago and was surprised to see the blue sky was black and cold when the temperature of the air was over 100F.
@@MiniRockerz4ever he explains it around 2:30. The temperature of the sky is made up of the air column from the ground till space. That temperature will be lower on the south pole because it's colder at ground level.
I'm fascinated with the beginning of this project. My background is in commercial Hvac and I see what your doing so far . I work on chillers and Absorbers using lithium bromide I do think once the system is operating it has merit but I also can see some type of mass thermal storage being part of the system. Also the cylinder shaped coil heat exchanger is something that we use for waste heat off the a/c compressor reduces the electric load on an existing a/c condensing unit. If you existing unit is a heat pump there can be an added benefit with solenoid valves to divert the glycol. Thank you I'll be watching.
All stuff that a lot of people probably intuitively know, with regards a clear sky making things so much colder than an overcast sky, but explained in much more detail, and with a device that takes full advantage of it to save you money on your AC bill. Great video, looking forward to the follow-ups! (And maybe plumbing the air-conditioned PC into it for even colder subambient cooling?)
This dude seems like the most competent person on the planet. Listening to him talk and watching him work honestly makes the world around me feel a little more stable. Fascinating video and I really feel like I’m learning a lot. Good stuff.
Thanks! One perk of working in the technology field is that we've gotten to meet some very skilled and knowledgeable people. It can even be a little intimidating.
@@TechIngredients well you are a wonderful communicator, and I was even able to mostly keep up. You got yourself and the team a new subscriber for sure!
Another amazing and informative video. A scholar uses intellectual and academic pursuits to set them apart from others by applying their expertise in a specific area of study, but you my friend take it one step further. You share that knowledge with the world through well thought out explanations and demonstrations that are easy to digest. You provide inspiration. You are not only a scholar, but a gentleman.
I absolutly love this guy! By far the best 25.00 of my day. Excited to see part 2. It is so great to learn something without being made to feel stupid for not already knowing it. Thank you.
In 2002 I built a home in Henderson Nevada. At that time a company made residential AC units that had watercooled condensers. One of my units was 5 tons the other 2 tons. It was a two story home with 2300 sq. ft. These units where very economical to operate. As home owner I checked on the outdoor condensers every week to make sure they were clean. Hard water was a problem for these units. I lived in that home 12 years and units where working great. Because I kept up on maintaining the water reservoirs.
My parents have a heat pump and in-floor heating. It's functionally capable of cooling in summer, but very rarely actually does so. The reason is that the system has a shutoff to prevent any elements from going under the dew point. The last thing anyone wants is to start condensing liquid on the walls/pipes or on the floor. Not only would slick floors be a hazard, but you'd also be giving mold and open invitation. Edit: We live in Central Europe. Basically no one has residential house scale air conditioning.
@@jacob1121 While that is a good advice in general, it won't solve the ice cold floor problem - at least not for everyone: Some people have pets, and sometimes you want to sit or lay on the floor. Also, you can feel if a floor is ice cold through some slippers, depending on sole thickness.
A heat pump in cooling mode is just a standard air conditioner. In a typical install with an air handler or mini split evaporators, having the evaporator below dew point is a feature - the evaporator is used to dehumidify the air as it cools it. Dehumidifying the interior air then also lowers its dew point. A properly configured air conditioner (or heat pump in cooling mode) should help with condensation issues, not cause them.
@@davidlapierre4058 As mentioned, 99% or European residential housing do not have a standard air conditioner. They have radiators and (sometimes) in-floor heating, but that's meant to be used for heating, not cooling.
I work in HVAC and this is a pretty dang cool idea man! This would certainly improve efficiency and cooling capacity. I have my own more simple ideas for improving Subcooling of the Refrigerant, but this would definitely work. On a large scale, or like you said, with hydronic systems, this could be something manufacturers further develop in order to accomplish improved energy efficiency.
@NightHawkInLight made some similar paint/coating half a year ago. This stuff is super interesting. Thanks for taking it a step further and making a full cooler with the coating.
Actually the @NightHawkInLight video is from 6 months ago (July 9 2022) and is named: "How To Make Infrared Cooling Paint (Electricity Free Air Conditioning)"
Interesting, and I always enjoy watching you explore science applications. Having said that, there is a technology that I think is the best for cooling average sized structures that is basically ignored by most. The earth tube. By running air through a long corrugated tube buried beneath the frost line, you can tap into the natural stable temperature of the ground. In my area that's 53 degrees. Meaning you can precondition your air to 53 degrees before putting it through an air conditioning system which will raise the temperature to your desired setting. This pretreatment can make a huge difference depending on the outside temp. I really wish knowledge of this technology could be spread because its relatively cheep and effective and can be added to existing structures. You should do a video on that.
The problem is condensation and mold in air intake that can't be taken lightly with these systems. A water loop, with heat exchanger, is better in that aspect.
Since installing the earth tubes requires digging you may as well just skip the tubes and install tubing for a ground source heat pump if this is intended for a residence Much more effective really and manages humidity in the structure for increased comfort Only reason to do something like this is when you won't be trying to heat or cool the structure beyond what you get from the ground (greenhouse, maybe a garage) But as another commenter mentioned, better to make it a liquid circulating system and use a heat exchanger to keep things clean and tidy
@@TheEmbrio The big advantage of geothermal air cooling is that you don't need to worry as much about leaks as with liquid cooling. What I think would be really interesting, is making a homemade air compressor which to pressurize pipes with heatsinks around them, which to get cooled by the intake air for a windmill at the bottom of a solar tower (aka. solar chimney) which to heat the air which rises and accelerates through the tube/tower/chimney pulling more air for the heatsink and windmill. I think such a system, although it would have plenty of disadvantages (such as needing a tall chimney/pipe/tower, which to be at least a few meters/yards tall), would also have the advantage of working passively while there is sunlight, due to the only moving parts being the windmill, the drive shaft (or alternative), and the air compressor, all 3 of which would be connected (maybe even welded) together, and the bearings needed for all of them. A few cheap imperfect mirrors (i.e. tinfoil + epoxy + tarp + frame) which to focus more light onto the solar tower, in order to cause faster air speeds, which to compress more air and cool the heatsinks faster. The compressed air would likely need a "drip pipe" going to the outside of the building, which to move the condensed water towards the outside, with a shut-off valve for preventing the humidity from completely escaping from the building in really dry climates.
Yep. One of my ideas is to make essentially large "heat pipes" and dig down vertically, then insulate the copper tubing going around them (that has water going through it) towards the upper parts. The efficiency of the heat pipes would help to cut down on the area and amount of materials needed. Not everyone can afford to, or has the space to, evacuate very long trenches and lay hundreds of feet of tubing, or dig to well like depths. Using heat pipes, you only really need to dig down to where the temps are pretty stable, and then thermally insulate the rest of it.
@@TheEmbrio the DOE.gov paper on it recommends specific tubing to reduce mold growth. My plan is to install dry-well condensation traps along with appropriate tubing. I'll be installing 150ft soon to see if it works.
I had a feeling as soon as 'toughened epoxy' was mentioned, a Henkel cartridge would soon appear. I go after their composite bonding formulas quite often as it's been about the best thing to bond carbon panels to metal substrates as I've found thus far. On a more related note, I'm waiting on the weather to come around to build a modified aircrete dome I worked on formulating a mix with my graphene additive over the winter as part application test, part workshop build. With innovations in lower powered HVAC solutions and more optimized building materials, generating heat/cooling and retaining it for as long as possible should do wonders for making a modern structure perform like having 24" thick adobe walls.
Love this! I’ve been looking at passive infrared cooling as a possible method for accelerating ground cooling and cooling glacial and polar ice. Start with a wick-less heat pipe embedded vertically in the ice. This will rapidly carry subsurface heat to the surface, when the surface temp is lower than the subsurface temperature. But without a wick, the heat flow cannot be reversed, making it behave like a thermal diode. At the top of the heat pipe use a vapor chamber and passive radiator, with a tuned-emissivity coating. Now heat will flow rapidly to the surface and radiate into space whenever ambient conditions allow it. Got booking large masses like ground or ice this should result in more heat flux out of the mass during colder months, delaying and or reducing melt and runoff in warmer months. Could be useful for thermal batteries (for cooling), but also might be possible to deploy at very large scales to delay glacial melting in key spots or similar issues.
The reason I watched this is because way back in college in my Heat Transfer class on route to my engineering degree, my professor explained radiant cooling and anecdotally explained why people have been able to make ice in the desert by digging a hole and filling a vessel with water at night. The heat radiated into the often clear desert skies at night while absorbing very little heat, enough to make ice. This was a great experiment! I can see this as a way to boost existing air-conditioning and refrigeration systems to save electricity!
Its always great to nerd out watching your videos! I'm really glad your eye accident didn't turn out worse, and I'm happy you recovered well and are back to making great videos. Thank you!
I love this deep space concept. I live in an area that has more cooling days than heating days. I have a hydronic floor for heating using solar thermal collectors and an in-ground "tank" for thermal storage. I've been playing with a few cooling ideas. I'm very curious how this concept would compare in cost, size and capacity. The first idea I'm thinking about is a simple buried ground loop to expel the unwanted heat. My initial calculations indicate that I would likely need a fairly substantial sized loop, e.g. 1/4 the square footage of the house and buried at least 3 feet deep. I'm a little concerned with the absorption rate of the ground, as it does not contain a significant amount of moisture. The second idea is a "Zeer Pot" system. Essentially, prepare an area for sod, install a lawn sprinkler system, cover the area with ground loop PEX, layout the sod and run the sprinklers often enough to keep the area damp and evaporating. Now considering this high emissivity coating, I might consider building two sided, flat plate DHW collectors. One side with matte black, high absorption coating and glazing and the other side with removable rigid foam panels that would expose the high emissivity coating. During the Winter months the panels would be angled toward the Sun with the foam insulation installed on the backside thereby collecting thermal energy to heat the floors. However, during the Summer months the panels would have the foam backing removed and turned "upside down" exposing the high emissivity side to space.
I love this channel! I needed teachers like you 40 years ago... I keep telling my now adult kids that I would have breezed through high school Chem, Physics, Calculus and Functions and Relations if we had the internet way back when. At 56, I still love learning and am obsessed with knowing the hows and why stuff works. I will admit that I have shop envy though!.
Have you tried any of the popular chat bots yet? I refreshed most of what I learned in high school chemistry in just a few days of free time and I’m 28. It’s the next step in learning things quickly.
Been enjoying your efforts. Im a retired HVAC trained guy that worked in boat bilges and RV's too. Most fun to install were some residential ground loop heat pumps. They talked of grabbing extra heat to also spin a turbine using the Hot Gas part of its loop, but US Power never continued... Best heat gatherer I've met involves a copper tube, 8mmx2m long filled partially with a refrigerant... even waxes and oils boil... . The high end of the tube gathered the heated... maybe vaporized fluid and that has been inserted in a very well insulated pipe that contains flowing fluid to storage or even heating uses. Glass tube collector systems make boiling water in artic conditions. My roof array has 22 tubes, and when i had it connected to my electric water heated our power bill dropped 50% in the summer, 25% winter. San Juan Islands loose sun in the spring and fall but 10% helps. I had used a direct water loop with freeze considerations and lost the array twice from freak 15F nights. Soon i will use an oil or glycerin loop. The 12vdc 10w pump runs from a 30w solar panel so it circulates on even cloudy days. When it worked it got REALLY hot in august and cpvc pipes going up to the array stretched. I ended up cooling the hot problem by using a pump to give instant hot water by looping under the home to the baths etc and allowing it to be running at 140F using a dryer Tstat clamped to the array loop. The insulated water loop loses enough heat to the crawl space but but boy that water can be HOT. They sell Temperature Safety valves... cuts hot into the cold and i got one somewhere. I bet you could put similar tubes into a box that has one way glass and a mirror in back... not sure how my glass tube covers like hail BTW.
A great way I've found to make large, cheap, low power density heat exchangers is to use corrugated plastic. For $100 you get a 4x8 panel that is rigid, watertight, and even has channels to help guide flow evenly. To make inlet/outlets you can just cut a slit along a hose, open it up and silicone it around the exposed sides of the panel. Plastic panels work great for applications like air to air heat exchange and radiative cooling as the thermal conductivity of the plastic has very little impact on the performance of the system.
In Alabama we have some old houses that have a round thing built in the top with windows that open on the 2nd or 3rd story and its basically free AC, you just open the windows or the door and its sucks so much air through the house even in the summer its a nice cool breeze.
Fantastic stuff as always, and thanks for doing that. If you ever think you don't need a face mask when you're spraying, I suggest you wear a face mask when spraying, and then examine it afterwards.
cool stuff. I particularly liked the tie into heat pumps. I really feel like heatpumps should be integrated into a lot more in houses. We've got HRV's and tight houses now to boost efficiency, but they work even better with a heatpump integrated into them. heat pump hot water tanks as well. Dehumidfiers, heat, cooling, hot water, all of this could be integrated to run off a single compressor unit outside. It could even be complicated a bit so that when you have differing needs (say, AC in the house, but hot water for showers) the heat need not be rejected into the atmosphere, but simply moved and condensed to be used in a different way. Unfortunately, this sort of thing needs either a high level of integration within a company, or strict standards so that you can piece a system together from different brands. Oh, i forgot! cooling solar panels and dumping the heat either into the house, or into hot water. The possible combinations are endless!
Using AC condenser heat to warm up hot water in the summer is a really smart idea. Just add a water pump switched on by the blower fan and circulate that hot water to and from a normal boiler. Doing that all day long it might never even have to switch on.
@@markm0000 it's a tad more complicated >< i believe only co2 based heatpumps can bring the temp up high enough for hot water, but surely you could have a small pre-warming tank, or maybe build the entire system with co2 as a refrigerant. There's a lot of little aspects like that though. I find it disappointing that there are all these building codes to increase efficiency, but they still haven't mandated heatpumps. They are by far the most cost effective way of reducing heating energy needs. We just did a mini-split in my brothers house, and we figure the payback period is only 4-5 years, and that's in a place with cheap electricity.
It is always enjoyable to watch your videos, you have helped me with my research in automotive engine cooling and air conditioning with medium horsepower engines that doesn't cost $5000. Due to the limited room in my engine bay, I can't expand on the standard cooling system. I have a Mopar 1969 440RB in a 1968 Dodge Dart that runs great and cool with the standard radiator and fan system during the winter. Yet, during the extreme hot summers at 103 to 115, I can reach engine temperatures of 230-250. If I could just cool down the engine coolant to 180-190, the optimum temperature. By flowing the coolant out of the radiator, that is still too hot, using a air cooled finned tubing system that runs under the car. From the output of radiator to the rear and then back forward to the engine, by utilizing the air that flows under the car to help get the coolant down to 190, before it goes back into the engine. Your thoughts on the this would be helpful. This home air conditioning system of yours, not for my condo, but to help cool down the interior of my Dart somewhat during these hot summers, if even possible. Thanks for the great videos.
Looking forward to the 2nd part. Also, a respirator during spraying is good example for your viewers. Spraying techniques need a bit of improvement. Videos as always are top notch!
Maybe its an interesting idea to combine this system and the other system you guys made (titled: Revolutionary Air Conditioner!). Thanks for the interesting content.
I would think that one would naturally be more effective than this, but it also only works during the day. It would definitely make sense to add this infrared design to the chain. I wonder if there might be other passive cooling solutions that would be worth adding. A clay pot cooler might be useful during especially hot days. Its drawback is that it utilizes evaporation for cooling, so it is a waste of water. The challenge there would be finding a relatively simple way to collect and treat the waste water so that it does not waste money (and doesn't reek like hot sewage soup in the sun). Though depending where you are in the world, it could be damaging to the environment if too many people are doing evaporative cooling instead of treating their waste water and letting it continue elsewhere. Either way, I think this summer calls for a passive cooling drag race. I wanna see where they all stack up.
It'd be very interesting to know the amount of heat this device can "move" in terms of watts per square meter. Good video and thanks as always for the quality content.
Nice! I watched NightHawkInLight's video on the same topic when it came out. I'm keen to try build something for my place. What you could do is store the cold air in a big insulated tank and then flow that through radiators. I'm keen to see your follow-up, particularly on how many watts you're actually able to shed per panel in varying conditions.
This is great, and seems like it could be used in line with the split evaporative cooling system you had a couple of years ago. Gaining even 10 degrees below ambient off the AC coolant temperature from evaporative cooling before hitting the radiative cooling stage would be amazing. I have considered putting evaporative cooling around my ac condenser, but haven't done it, maybe that's something you can test this summer? Great stuff thanks for the experiment!
This is really cool. I am curious about the heat transfer rate and heat flux of this bench top experiment. You may have mentioned them. It's been years since I took Heat Transfer, and I no longer practice as a ChemE. But I believe with the DT (Tout-Tin) and a flow rate we could have the heat transfer rate (Q'). With the dimensions of the radiator, we could get the approximate heat flux (Q''). That would help in sizing for implementing this in a larger system. I am excited to see the next video. I hope you integrate this into a future, updated version of your Solar Air Conditioner from a few years ago.
As a practicing engineer I find it rather calming listening to your work. I hope my elocution will grow to be as smooth as yours. Keep up the good work, you spark joy.
I think that an inverted pyramidal shaped box would be better to avoid reflection back to the radiator. Underneath the radiator, a pyramidal shaped stand, you can vary the angles to optimize.
This was the most interesting thermodynamics video I've watched in years, the last one being the desicant system you built of course :) Could you do a proof of concept with the cascade system you described to boost the efficiency of a small window unit just to see what kind of numbers it yields? quick and dirty, its so satisfying that these combinations of technology have so many orders of power working in its favor. Heat pumps being beyond 100% efficient makes the system you suggested all the more inticing. I think innately I've always had this lingering bit of intuition in my head surrounding the power of IR transmissivity and this video really really really allowed me to wrap my brain around the potential of IR thermodynamics. I'm super excited to see more about how to leverage IR transmissivity to move BTU's around. Absolutely awesome, beaming heat into space at the speed of light... so fucking cool I cant even. I wish I knew someone I could share this with that would really appreciate how deep and fun this is.
That's a very impressive demonstration of the super coat paint, which I actually saw you make right before I watched this video (watched them in reverse order). I've known of this phenomenon for some time... in Melbourne, Australia in winter, it rarely goes below 0°C at night, yet car roofs, bonnets and boots, especially on my black car, are often covered in frost in the morning. Doors and other vertical surfaces are not. That this happens so often is down to the mild (by your standards) winter temperatures, which are just cold enough to allow the few degrees of supercooling to produce a very noticeable effect, yet not cold enough for air temperature to account for it alone. My friends asked me how it could possibly happen (I'm known for knowing "a fair bit about a fair bit"), and I worked out what was going on. I do have a large general scientific knowledge but my strength is being able to take that and work out things I don't know. I could have looked it up of course but it's way more satisfying for me to work it out, and much more impressive to my friends. Oh, "bonnets" are "hoods", and "boots" are "trunks" in this context.😂
The most gratifying part of this for me begins at 14:16 . I've paired with many people over the years and for many things, from years-long technical projects to carrying a couch up a flight of stairs. The value of a trusted and competent partner is thrice his weight in gold multiplied by the frustration you'd experience should he be incompetent. The same applies to teams but the frustration is never so great as when mano a mano. To get back on topic, increased frustration levels can also increase the amount of heat you radiate!
You guys always put out fascinating, well explained videos. This is very cool! (No pun intended.) I have always dreamed of having a workshop like you guys do, and so I got an old historical building.. but as I do work on it, one of the things I have been wondering about is when I go to install or repair some of the old heating/cooling systems, and the costs associated. I have a big flat roof, so I was wondering about solar panels, but something like this would be far more useful I think. Excited to see where this goes, do you think copper sheet's thermal conductivity would make it worth replacing aluminum? Or would the cost not be worth it?
IMHO, Aluminium is used because of two properties that it has: 1) It is silver in colour and very reflective. 2) It has a self sealing layer of oxide that makes it quite suitable for outdoor use.
Unfortunately there’s no incentive to implement any of this because landlords own the buildings but don’t care how cool they are and don’t pay for electricity, and renters can’t afford to invest in a place they may only live/work for a single year.
I made an experiment of underground tunnel, very small one on my lot and put a fan on the edge of that tunnel. The design was a pipe from my rooftop around my garden, traveling all the way underground getting sucked with the fan. Its not as cool as aircon but its cooler than an actual air fan is giving. The idea is the fresh air from my garden, cools of the air while traveling on the tunnel until its released on the fan sucking the air from my rooftop pipe. So I feel comfortable because the air comes from my garden.
I think we really need to take a book from nature, Transpiration from trees is known to cool down the area dramatically. covering roofs with living foliage likely would cause cooling inside the building. or possibly creating a inorganic material that transpires through evaporation. you'll often find that park benches are cooler when under a tree than under a roof/pavilion.
Awesome demonstration and technology. Using the abundant absence of heat present at high altitudes to passively cool air on the surface is an amazing idea. Thank you for sharing.
I installed an pre-cooler on my AC when I lived in Arizona. I was an evaporative type that provided as much as 20 degree F air temperature reduction on the condenser side. Unfortunately it only worked well when ambient relative air humidity was below 8 -10% (usually from March through mid-June). The drawback was that it caused some rust and degradation on the AC parts. I thought of experimenting with using water from the deep well because it comes out of the ground at about 45 - 50 degrees F. year around. The water would pass through a heat exchanger before it gets to the pressure tank (for use in the house or to water a garden, lawns etc.). It takes some electrical power to pump the water too.
One great way to provide clamping force in a situation like that is to use a vacuum system, even something as simple as a Space Saver for smaller projects. Pull a vacuum and the atmosphere clamps down. Add extra clamping and you're golden!
I lived in South Florida for a while, and during the summer I could feel the heat radiating down through the ceiling. My home had light grey shingles. I decided to roll on a super reflective coating over the shingles for two reasons. I believe the coating was advertised as over 80% reflective, and it was hurricane rated. It made a huge difference.. No more radiant heat from the ceiling. The attic temperature dropped from unbearable to room temperature. My electric bill was nearly cut by half, and the roof survived Hurricane Irma.
You can also make ice when the air temperature is above freezing by allowing the infrared heat to escape to outer space on a clear night. That’s why you get frost on your windshield on a clear night when it’s above freezing. Park in the shade and you won’t get frost.
Everytime I come back to this channel I get reminded just how amazing it is. I always love the science, engineering and physics exercise that these videos are. Very surprised you're not over 1mil subs yet. Sending good vibes from Florida
This is beyond excellent material that I just happened upon and I love it want to see you around doing this as long as you'd like! My only worry is that when you are spraying your super sealant is that you don't use a mask when atomizing those particles getting into your lungs 🫁.I lost a friend to silicosis and is hate to see your time come up shorter than it could have been. Looking forward to more of your content... New subscriber 🥳🥳🥳😊
I would love to see a series of videos on passive heating and cooling systems used historically like thermal sinks, shaded windows, spiral chimneys, domes, alleyways, orientation to the sun and courtyards. The ones used for thousands of years in the middle east and south east asia. Determine which ones add the most effect and comfort, and the ones that work best - Push those to the extreme to show where they hit their limit of effectiveness. We need a solid engineering/science look at these techniques that don't use fancy coatings or power, just simple low maintenance materials such as mud, brick, wood, sand and stone. This would be super helpful for lowering our footprint and power usage with ancient but forgotten techniques. Love your videos! Keep up the fantastic work!
My thanks for mentioning all the actual materials and not just the type. I live in the EU and a lot of things are just different enough that things like this might not work for example with the plastic wrap, now I can check if it is actually poly ethylene
I have a pneumatic applicator for epoxies. It’s made by 3M and it works fantastic for big projects like that. I do body work for a living, so I use it just about every day. No more cramped hands from squeezing the epoxy out.
I love your work, and thank you for education and sharing. PLEASE wear a really good, maybe a positive pressure Respirator! Especially when spraying-- anything! I want you to be around a long time, with good health.
I am a big fan of Patreon and looked at your channel briefly. I’m shocked I made such a poor decision and didn’t subscribe because I am more into computers. Your channel is fantastic and I am look forward to seeing future videos!!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes! Great to see you working on this also. Your test setup is pretty much what I came up with for a future video, but you did a much better job of it. I've been working on a variety of coating methods for comparison. In recent experiments I found that barium sulfate and calcium carbonate pigments have near equal performance if used in the snow scattering acrylic base from my earlier video, with barium only slightly pulling ahead. I hit about 4C below ambient with the coatings facing directly toward the sun. I hope my experiments past and future help you develop this into a practical diy solution for everyone.
I was just about to run over to your channel and talk about this; awesome to see more development on these coatings!
It's great to see multiple people coming up with similar solutions independently, it tells me I'm on the right track. The next iteration for me would be to get the benefits of gravity and state change by constructing a heat pipe with something like acetone or toluene as a working fluid, put the condensing end in the dewar connected to the panel and the evaporative end in a dewar of it's own. The great thing about thermodynamics is it's just moving heat around or converting it to a different type of energy.
Would love to see this added to thermo electric modules. Yes they are inefficient, but a bunch of them at low voltage is still a cheap solid state heat pump. Cooling smaller spaces like a trailer, shed, or single room on low total power should be possible. Perhaps a ground loop to dissipate would compensate for the inefficient TEC's and bring total system efficiency up to mini split levels.
Like, ebay 6 TEC water to air module in series at 14v, heating water/cooling room- hot water to ground loop- to black body radiator- back to TEC module. You'd have to come up with a way to deal with indoor condensation, but the TEC's would have their hot side being cooled well below ambient temps. With enough ground heat dissipation, one should be able to crank up the voltage/power on the TEC's during the day to get useful BTU's when necessary and when solar power is available.
Thanks for the feedback!
I found that a significant improvement occurred when I blended spherical barium sulfate nanoparticles with different SIZES. I ran the formulation at four different temperatures to generate specific diameter particles. This allows for efficient densification. Minimizing the acrylic fraction helped a little more.
Seeing two of my favorite yt channels talking about a science subject and sharing information is just beautiful :)
I’m fascinated by the potential of this. I live in a desert and during the summer months, our electricity bills skyrocket; if we could make passive cooling work for residential housing, it would be revolutionary. I’ll be studying this further, thank you so much for sharing your process and discoveries!
I agree, I also live in a desert gets hot during the summer around 120°f
Although, I think while this is a great project with a lot of potential in these hotter areas it might be best as a cost saving measure as better insulation for already existing measures
There already is passive cooling for the desert. Look up evaporative cooling. And the cooling towers in India. L
As the desert has really low humidity you can use evaporative cooling,
I'll bet your ground temperature a few feet down is in the 60F range. Just one 50 or 100 foot loop would probably give you cold water to circulate in a radiator with a small pump to cool your house. If you do, let me know the results.
@@taciusathis method allows you to save precious water though.
Your specialized coating is not the only cooling technology in this video. That Members Only jacket instantly makes you cool.
Its also a coating... Coat.
Cool coating
Damn I missed that! This guy is Freaking legend with that jacket!
You're a good dude. As well as your son. I appreciate the quality of the presentation as well as the topic itself. A 20 minute video takes many hours to put together. I appreciate the effort.
Hey again Mr Ingredients. I've made this comment before but I feel its important so I want to say again, it is so cool that you do these projects with your son and how you nearly always say "we" instead of "I" when explaining the processes. My parents live 1100 miles away from me now, and I really miss doing projects and experiments with my dad. Keep these awesome videos coming!
I'm not even 5 minutes in and I learned a ton. This guy really knows how to explain things in a clear and concise manner.
personally I think he explains too much
I thought the same thing!
@@adairjanney7109idk is there such a thing as explaining to much? Lol like saying he knows to much need to silence him a little
I think he does a bad job of explaining it!
He goes into detail that is obvious (unnecessary) to serious observers.
Additionally… there really is no practical application for this. Radiant heat works because heat goes up.- tie in cold water and you’re just making the floor cold. Even that depends on the type of flooring you want.
Also, the vast majority of homes domestic and worldwide don’t currently employ any kind of geothermal or radiant heating system. (As such installation is usually done before the house is constructed).
The way you explained this was wizardry, so clear. Genius levels I only meet in a hallucination.
This is ONE OF THE BEST channel I have ever seen for CORE TECH content. I dont know what is your day job, but someone giving away such info is just amazing.
I live in 38 - 48 degree area with 60-90% humidity 8 months of the year. I have been looking for passive cooling for so long. Never found such deep tech content.
What a time to be alive.
I am so glad that you are back and doing videos after the accident, i find all of your videos very interesting! I hope you are fully recovered and keep up the good work!
Thank you for sharing this so far. Please remember to do the follow-up video. I very much want to learn about the daytime efficiency and the coating. I'm in Florida, and the summers are brutal here. Any improvements that I can make would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
That indeed is next.
@@TechIngredients glad you'll be covering how to make this! I've been looking into making similar paints for my metal roof in Albuquerque
I am building a box truck to live in (in Florida). Anything I can do that can cool without turning on the AC is appreciated.
especially considering the electricity bill here is averaging almost $200! it's insane
Phoenix laughs at your Florida heat.
My grandfather built their house with passive solar in mind. A 4ft deep space sits under the house, with river stone as its bed. The entire front face of the house has a sun space going up over 2 stories. This allows for airflow from underneath the house to pull heat from the rest of the house forward.
It’s pretty effective, though you have to work to ensure that cool nights flow into the house and then seal it up during the day, at least in heatwaves like the one we’re in now. It does have its limits, as the 100+ F temperatures we’re experiencing now mean the upper floors get quite warm, but we have been able to keep the downstairs between 68-74F throughout the day.
With such a house design, even small AC input would make a large difference, minimizing energy consumption.
Vernacular architecture is definitely the best way to conserve energy.
You said a lot of words but I still don’t understand wtf he did to make it better
@@xx_pcgamer_xx6866 house use fancy architecture so pull heat from house.
@@jacobbaumgardner3406You might to simplify it further. Lol
uhhh like a solar chimney? passive solar cooling?
17:20 - Just a safety note, please wear a respirator whilst spraying paint. Those spray guns do an excellent job of atomising paint making it super easy to breath in and lungs don't deal well with paint, especially in the long term. Ear protection for the high airflow blower powering your spray gun wouldn't be a bad idea either.
No.
If he was doing it on a daily basis, I would concur. But for intermittent exposure - it's honestly just more hassle than it's actually worth.
well spotted. In the navy some jobs are 30 minutes kitting up and 30 seconds to perform the task but it's all Regs. Clearly in combat all this rigmarole goes over the side lol
I assume he ventilated the room afterwards? or it was big enough to dissipate the aerosol ~ that is why he didn’t mask himself 🤨
Honestly looks like he was just holding his breath.
I've been playing with infrared thermometers and thermal imaging cameras lately, so it's great to have your explanations of some of these phenomena. In particular I've noted:
- the coldness of the sky (which often measures -40 to -60 degC)
- the opacity of glass to IR
- the transparency of certain plastics to IR
- the high reflectivity of certain rocks and ceramics
- the way a dull (e.g. galvanised or brushed) metal surface acts as a much clearer mirror in the infrared (presumably the longer wavelengths in IR are less affected by the surface roughness)
- the way splashes of water stand out as colder than their environment, and remain colder as they evaporate, eventually leaving the surface still cooler than the surroundings
Thanks, interesting stuff to think about.
That's some good food for thought, cool stuff
(pun not intended 😅)
When water evaporates it takes away some heat from the environment next to it. There are some examples of passive air conditioning systems that use this (particularly ancient ones) edit: forgot to mention its called evaporative cooling
I think the sky is simply not able to be read by the camera because there's nothing close enough to bounce off of, it's not a real reading. So it defaults to the lowest measurement the camera can display.
Likewise glass and reflective metals and certain plastics bounce or fail to "catch" the infared laser to be measured.
Water cools as it evaporates and takes heat from everything around it.
Mate, you are truly a diamond on here. Its amazing what you do, and I am consistently blown away at the progress you are making. You are changing the world man.
Wow, thank you!
@@TechIngredients Ain't something to think "Wow" about.
That probably sounds dick-ish, prima facie, but it isn't.
if you chew on it, you'll soon realize that it's complimentary as can be, as we who attempt outside of the box critical/practical thinking, applied to VERY real (mostly third-world) problems, often tend to lose sight of the MASSIVE implications and direct lifestyle impacting effects that efficiently shaving a penny off of modern inefficiencies (and doing so by utilizing "Low-Cap" barriers to entry priced tech, WILL, most certainly, modify the cost of living by several pennies to "We The People" ...
... specifically in those areas of the Third World where I have Operated out of (Thinking "Horn Of Africa" in my recently retired Military mind/experience) and have personally seen the day-to-day life that the folks who have almost NOTHING left to spare in order for them to actively solve major, real-time day-to-day life's problems ... this inability DIRECTLY affecting their quality-of-living and keeping them SQUARELY strapped into the socio-economic shackles (of the back-most seats of the Struggle Bus that WE (Western ,First-World types, see as a huge hurdle.
That Bus is running on maybe 2 of 8 engine cylinders, and just CAN NOT quite crest the peak of Poverty Hill, then becoming able to coast downhill toward the self sufficient zone.
This is akin to clean water access or suitable food security.
Without these things, I see desperate conditions that foster opportunistic straight-up SHIT-bags ... (i.e. Warlord types that view these good intentioned rural folks as merely expendable cannon fodder, at best) ... to continue to exploit the weaknesses inherent in the world below the Poverty Line.
(War-Lords ... Wal-Marts ... you get the idea)
That's a mouthful of too many words to describe the blunt fact that efficient cooling, without the massive energetic costs (compared to the - RELATIVELY speaking - quite wealthy Western Working Class' costs ... represented as a percentage of "expendable income") that stand between THEIR lives and everyone else's refrigerated life's experiences.
I think deeply about this stuff as I watch the elders in the Djiboutian and Ethiopian and Somali tribal communities cave to the "paths of least resistance" corrupt Bullies, who dangle tiny snack sized servings of basic human needs in front of them, just like a carrot on a God-dammed STICK..
I'm looking at what you, and what the other commenters that are working on these particular puzzles, as being akin to the clean water solutions being put forth.
These are impoverished People not able to compete as participants in the markets without permission from these heartless power manipulators who hand out Khat to the young Men (in the West, we just call them "Boys") so that they might use that stimulant with strong appetite suppressive characteristics, to pick up a Kalashnikov and BOOM ...
... We've got another child-soldier.
And I'm no good at truncating a message like this into a TL/DR version. ("Clif" disapproves of the length of my "Notes".
But I'll try.
TL/DR:
Your word "Wow" in reply to the last poster saying that you are changing the world, would indicate that you don't see yourself as working on something profound and life changing.
But if you relax your eyeballs' focus, you can see farther out.
MUCH farther out.
Hope you followed my ramble and understood where I am coming from. I mean what I say because I've seen what I've seen.
And we, as Human Beings, can do a Helluvalot better than we are ... at present.
ROCK ON!!!
He is not kiding, this is important information.
Speaking of diamond, I wonder what using industrial diamond powder in the mix would do in regards to efficiency?
Want to buy some magic beans?
Planted trees ALL around my house in '87. Now I have shade ALL day.
thief can use them it's unsafe
@@vjdas6 Also, reduced roof life will probably cost more than energy savings.
@@vjdas6freedom> safety
Shade all day long 😏
@@jmodified Actually shingles do better in shade. So its increased roof life if you can bother to trim your trees.
The Royal Institution had a surprisingly interesting lecture here on TH-cam on the subject of air conditioning. The lecture can be found under the name "The Physics of Hot Air - with Shaun Fitzgerald". It really opened my eyes to how complicated it is to design a building with good natural air flow and how much power savings there could be had if the air would naturally flow through the structure instead of forcing it through with machinery.
interestingly, the architect of the Minoan Palace at Knossos, Crete, had a good practical grasp of natural air con - c.1400BC, rather impressive
@@MyMy-tv7fd tons of ancient muslim and persian buildings did the same. it was almost a necessity back then.
A book, Architecture Without Architects by Bernard Rudofsky, mentions this principle with many examples throughout history. Uts shows great insight how civilizations survived 1000s of years with electricity or AC.
*Without* electricity....
Actually it isnt and wasnt. Old houses are situated so they face the sun rise and set. They have windows placed to create even air flow. Hell the condos in California would stay cool all day if you kept the doors shut. Because of the concrete pads that had absorbed moisture. Then you leave the windows open at sunset and let the cold back in. Hmm a box with 2 holes on opposite sides what would happen if wind blew against it? The complicated parts would be how do we do this for skyscrapers or buildings with delicate instruments in it like servers? We need to control humidity and a system that free flows cant do that. Anyway cooling is simple when you have relative humidity and temps outside. Your foundation acts like a cave absorbing moisture and releasing it through the day. If humidity is too high you cant cool off. The biggest issue is heating. How do we move heat without wasting it.
It is so insanely refreshing to see a video from someone on TH-cam that not only knows what they're talking about, but can explain it in detail and doesn't shy from difficult topics. Finally a TH-camr that doesn't make me feel pandered to with no content that feels dumbed down. Overall very fantastic, this is currently my favorite channel!
Wow, thank you!
but can't spell "ain't correctly.........
@@justmengracie It's a made-up word so it matters little anyway - "Are isn't" isn't valid grammatically. If we're following the concatenation guidance of conventional English, it'd be a'in't.
@@bluephreakr Surely ain't just means isn't or aren't. Where'd the 'are is' come from?
@@bluephreakr ...Are there words that aren't made up?
I absolutely love how you explain things. Most of your topics are taught at university, but students barely understand them, if at all. Your explanations are much, much better and I've had a lot of concepts sink in properly and finally make sense after watching your videos. Please keep it up, you're doing everyone a great service in making the science fun and accessible and practical at the same time!
Wow, thank you!
@@TechIngredientsCare to demonstrate Iodine from kelp?
Be very very careful about just cooling down your floor or radiators. If you don't have the temperatures and humidities right, you're going to have water condensing in places you absolutely don't want it. If this happens under your flooring, you'll have mold and rot in no time.
I saw an article on this very topic somewhere. There's a large public building in Toronto, tons of glass, very big sun load. They use radiant cooling in the floors with a buffer tank and a mixing valve tied to zone hygrometers so the cooling loop is always a few degrees above dewpoint. They still have fan coils to catch the latent humidity and a few extra degrees of sensible, but it's waaaay smaller than it would have to be, compared to conventional.
Could they redirect/wick condensed water to somewhere it could evaporate, adding more cooling?
@@bakedbeings ehhh it would be counterproductive to dehumidify and then REHUMIDIFY. I've seen some info on indirect evaporative cooling that always seems to be 5 years away from commercialization. I myself nerded up (with zero practical engineering experience) on coupling the old railroad steam ejector chillers with desiccant beds that would be recharged with solar thermal. But in the end, it ends up being a Rube Goldberg contraption that would be twice as big, three times as expensive and one-fourth as efficient, as the plain old vapor compression AC systems in common use.
But I do think a sea change in how we heat and cool our spaces is coming. This high-emissivity radiant technology is one of them. Simple, low-complexity and easily replicated using common hardware store parts. DIY solar thermal panels aimed south and DIY lunar panels aimed north. Sharing a buffer tank to store heat and 'coolth' as the seasons demand.
This is not far from what Messana is doing with their radiant ceiling panels, except they use a Rheem Marathon tank and a air/water heat pump.
@@bakedbeings Not really. The problem is that it would often condense in the carpets or under the laminate floors.
@@bakedbeings condensing water wastes a lot of heat deficit. Granted if you evaporated it somewhere else you would be left with transport losses but still it is better not to unnecessarily condense water.
I love passive cooling experiments! Thanks for bringing this to the fore! I know you weren't able to mention every single detail, but nevertheless it should be noted that on the vast majority of nights when cooling is most needed there will also be high humidity, which means condensation. Any condensation that forms on this special coating will temporarily nullify its special properties, since the water droplets will become the new radiating surface. Therefore it is crucial to eliminate the potential for condensation to form on the coating. This can be done by completely sealing off the area between the plastic wrap and the coating, and only allowing outside air to equalize any pressure difference after entering that area through a port containing a reservoir of a strong desiccant material. The desiccant would obviously have to be maintained by periodic regeneration. All very doable things. I imagine that the special coating would be a material that has a very narrow emissivity band exactly coinciding with the transparency window of the atmosphere. I just recently read a paper about some extensive research and experimenting that was done to accomplish this. They were able to consistently achieve (when clouds were not a major issue) much colder than ambient temperatures, I want to say somewhere around 20 degrees C colder or more. In fact, they found that this passive cooling actually works best during the day (obviously due to the higher temperature difference between earth and sky during the day). Now the caveat is that these very large temperature differences below ambient can only be maintained when as much heat load as possible is eliminated from the radiator. So if you actually want to tap into that potential and use it to cool something, that sub-ambient difference will be significantly less. So there would be a sweet spot where you would achieve maximum benefit from this setup. If you radiate at near ambient temperatures, your heat dissipating capacity will be the highest because of Plank's law. But your cooling fluid would only be cooled to ambient temperatures, which would be almost useless. If you try to achieve max temperature differential, your radiator will be super chilled, meaning you will be removing very little heat. One way to ensure max efficiency of this setup would be to do it in stages. The first stage of sub-cooling could be perhaps a much larger panel set up all around the super-chill panel in the middle, and this pre-chill panel would not need tall aluminum blinders on the sides to cut out the incoming radiation from trees and buildings and such. It would take advantage of a greater percentage of the open sky, thereby dissipating more total heat, but would only go a little bit below ambient. Then the fluid would enter the center panel setup (the super-chiller) which has taller aluminum blinders, where it would do the limbo and see just how low it can go.
I was looking at using heat pipes to transfer heat which is just a evacuated tubing with refrigerant like ammonia and possibly some high surface area working area like sintered copper. But then life hit me and my lack of programming skills became apparent for data logging. I’m working on it, but if I just bought this stuff it would be $500
Just an curiosity question. Is there a gas that would expel moisture as well as provide or enhance transparency to IR? If we are sealing it would argon or others be of benefit? I've looked at the backyard geo thermal tie in on AC and that seems like it will still provide better cooling at 6' depth than the differential on this exchanger. My worry is that the heat sink of the back yard will eventually reach an uptake equilibrium with days of pumping heat into it.
My brother in christ how are you so learned but have never heard of a paragraph break. Thank you nonetheless for your comment.
@@test-sc2iy Yeah, that could definitely use a few paragraph breaks. I think it's just my mentality for comments on TH-cam; they just kind of progress in my mind as one fluid thought chain. Organizing into paragraphs is a step I would do if I were looking to write my own essay or publish my thoughts more professionally.
But it might be worth a try to do it in a comment, lol.
hi there, hi agree with you that condensation would form a layer of water that overcomes the emissivity of the special coating. However, if I recon well, H2O itself has an excellent emissivity in the 9-13um IR window too, maybe 95% of a black body or so. One can thus engineer a system to constantly have a layer of condensed water, like a tiny pond, and be fairly happy with that too rather than going through the costs and hasselts of coating a "special" emissive layer.
This video has helped me tremendously! I’m out like a light after turning this on at night.
Glad it helped!
Man, the content you guys produce here is just grade A (as in awesome) stuff. Your methods of implementation are always explained in such a pristine way.
You can never have too many clamps….❤
I’m not a technical kind of person in any way, but my dad was. That line totally reminds me of my dad. ❤️❤️ Love it!
You are an excellent lecturer. It is so easy to follow along with your lesson. It is the cadence and the tempo and the tone of voice that you use that carries so well.
Love the idea of barium sulfate ultra reflective paint just wish they would hurry up and mass produce the paint to reduce the cost. Love your videos
Thanks!
No worries, in our next video, we'll show you how to make it...cheap.
@@TechIngredients Been looking at costing for a 3D gyroid infill metal printed heat exchanger for custom HVAC ait-liquid but above my price range possible
Why not use calcium carbonate? Isn't that lime wash which people have been applying to the outside of buildings for a long time?
Henry Roof Coating, white, has this property. It is used on RV roofs, school buses, and other applications to reflect up to 98% of sunlight and heat. You can get it at Home Depot or any roofing supply.
Here I was thinking this was using the hafnium dioxide coating.
I've learned so much from this channel. This is amazing, and it's applicable to a project I'm working on. thank you; love this!
Wonderful!
@@TechIngredients We're you a teacher or professor at some point in your life? You are very good at describing a multitude of science topics and keep people engaged in your creative projects. From jet engines to rockets and air conditioning you name it, you've covered so many topics, my kind of channel indeed. Would have loved to have you as a science teacher in high school even though your much beyond high school level teaching.
P.S. I'm the guy that asked you before what you thought about nitric acid as an oxidizing agent in hybrid rocket motors and you said you didn't like it because it was too caustic and I would need some way to pressurize the container, I can't remember your exact response so please forgive me. I decided to pursue it anyways and you were right, Its hard to find a container for it and the spray nozzle must be made from a plastic designed for oxidizing acids. Not cheap, and I believe a graphite rocket nozzle would erode rather quickly. I've looked into 3D printing my own rocket nozzle that can hold up to the heat and corrosiveness of such a reaction. Hard to accomplish for an amateur rocket builder. Not to mention the toxicity. I'm going to keep pursuing that or hydrogen-peroxide still while practicing all safety precautions. Also, I wish you to revisit hydrogen production via electrolysis. There have been a few papers discussing urea as an electrolyte that can reduce the required energy needed for creating hydrogen. I plan on using carbon electrodes plated in copper and then nickle using urea as an electrolyte (also some KOH) to make an effective and cheap HHO generator. So no platinum. Also placing strong magnets in reverse polarity on each side of the cell will aid in the electrolysis producing more hydrogen hopefully getting more energy output to input ratio. This is all just from documents I've read on the subject. Robert Murray-Smith has made a few videos on the subject as well as his channel is devoted to energy production mainly, you should check him out if you haven't already. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge with all of this.
"Air is actually a great insulator when it isnt moving, its the air bubbles in the foam that do the insulation not the foam itself"
You unlocked a pretty deep intuition with that one in me, thank sir, may I have another.
It's also the reason aerogel is simply the best insulator out there
Polyurethane foam is not filled with air. It traps the blowing agent and achieves an R-value about 50% higher than air.
This is why on a still cold morning, if you stand still, you will keep warm.
Wind kills.
And why loose clothes, like pyjamas are strangely warmer than tight fitting insulating clothes.
Yep - that’s right, and that is because there are less molecules bundled together unlike water - which is tightly bundled, and conducts heats fast.
I wish you would do series on making a super efficient camper. Combine all your cooling / insulating / solar energy experiments into making a super efficient camper.
Very interesting, I recently got myself a Thermal Camera and while pointing it around I couldn't help but notice that the sky had between -50C to -70C. I was already wondering how that temperature came together, the more you know!
I am now wondering what makes south pole get colder than that?
I think its a bit of a "optical illusion". because most of the air above you is colder than the surface air, it only loses energy to the air above it. so very little infrared radiation reaches the surface from the air above. because for example, the air in the stratosphere is well above -50C, but the radiation it releases can't reach you. if I'm not mistaken its also a misconception with the greenhouse effect of the planet, its not that the radiation gets reflected back, the planet just get less efficient at radiating energy up to space.
@@MiniRockerz4ever That may have to do with airflow.
I too have used a FLIR camera at my work 20+ years ago and was surprised to see the blue sky was black and cold when the temperature of the air was over 100F.
@@MiniRockerz4ever he explains it around 2:30. The temperature of the sky is made up of the air column from the ground till space. That temperature will be lower on the south pole because it's colder at ground level.
I'm fascinated with the beginning of this project.
My background is in commercial Hvac and I see what your doing so far . I work on chillers and Absorbers using lithium bromide I do think once the system is operating it has merit but I also can see some type of mass thermal storage being part of the system.
Also the cylinder shaped coil heat exchanger is something that we use for waste heat off the a/c compressor reduces the electric load on an existing a/c condensing unit. If you existing unit is a heat pump there can be an added benefit with solenoid valves to divert the glycol.
Thank you I'll be watching.
All stuff that a lot of people probably intuitively know, with regards a clear sky making things so much colder than an overcast sky, but explained in much more detail, and with a device that takes full advantage of it to save you money on your AC bill.
Great video, looking forward to the follow-ups!
(And maybe plumbing the air-conditioned PC into it for even colder subambient cooling?)
No wasted words in explanations, straight to the point. As if my brain woke up from all the fluff trash I have been watching.
This dude seems like the most competent person on the planet. Listening to him talk and watching him work honestly makes the world around me feel a little more stable. Fascinating video and I really feel like I’m learning a lot. Good stuff.
Thanks!
One perk of working in the technology field is that we've gotten to meet some very skilled and knowledgeable people.
It can even be a little intimidating.
@@TechIngredients well you are a wonderful communicator, and I was even able to mostly keep up. You got yourself and the team a new subscriber for sure!
Another amazing and informative video. A scholar uses intellectual and academic pursuits to set them apart from others by applying their expertise in a specific area of study, but you my friend take it one step further. You share that knowledge with the world through well thought out explanations and demonstrations that are easy to digest. You provide inspiration. You are not only a scholar, but a gentleman.
I absolutly love this guy! By far the best 25.00 of my day. Excited to see part 2. It is so great to learn something without being made to feel stupid for not already knowing it. Thank you.
In 2002 I built a home in Henderson Nevada. At that time a company made residential AC units that had watercooled condensers. One of my units was 5 tons the other 2 tons. It was a two story home with 2300 sq. ft. These units where very economical to operate. As home owner I checked on the outdoor condensers every week to make sure they were clean. Hard water was a problem for these units. I lived in that home 12 years and units where working great. Because I kept up on maintaining the water reservoirs.
I believe people like you are a blessing to this nation. Thank you, sir!
Not just to your nation. :)
@@cygnusx7 Others usually aren't very grateful
@@HadzabadZa I'm British and very grateful
@@cygnusx7 right. Think bigger!
My parents have a heat pump and in-floor heating. It's functionally capable of cooling in summer, but very rarely actually does so. The reason is that the system has a shutoff to prevent any elements from going under the dew point. The last thing anyone wants is to start condensing liquid on the walls/pipes or on the floor. Not only would slick floors be a hazard, but you'd also be giving mold and open invitation.
Edit: We live in Central Europe. Basically no one has residential house scale air conditioning.
You also wouldn't want to walk over freezing cold floors, even in summer. I guess 15°C or so would be what you'd want to aim for.
@@Pystro People should wear open toe slippers in the summer, save a bunch of money on socks and save your heels walking on hardwood floor.
@@jacob1121 While that is a good advice in general, it won't solve the ice cold floor problem - at least not for everyone: Some people have pets, and sometimes you want to sit or lay on the floor. Also, you can feel if a floor is ice cold through some slippers, depending on sole thickness.
A heat pump in cooling mode is just a standard air conditioner. In a typical install with an air handler or mini split evaporators, having the evaporator below dew point is a feature - the evaporator is used to dehumidify the air as it cools it. Dehumidifying the interior air then also lowers its dew point. A properly configured air conditioner (or heat pump in cooling mode) should help with condensation issues, not cause them.
@@davidlapierre4058 As mentioned, 99% or European residential housing do not have a standard air conditioner.
They have radiators and (sometimes) in-floor heating, but that's meant to be used for heating, not cooling.
I work in HVAC and this is a pretty dang cool idea man! This would certainly improve efficiency and cooling capacity. I have my own more simple ideas for improving Subcooling of the Refrigerant, but this would definitely work. On a large scale, or like you said, with hydronic systems, this could be something manufacturers further develop in order to accomplish improved energy efficiency.
We will have no jobs soon
@NightHawkInLight made some similar paint/coating half a year ago.
This stuff is super interesting.
Thanks for taking it a step further and making a full cooler with the coating.
Next, we'll show you how to make the coating.
Actually the @NightHawkInLight video is from 6 months ago (July 9 2022) and is named:
"How To Make Infrared Cooling Paint (Electricity Free Air Conditioning)"
Interesting, and I always enjoy watching you explore science applications. Having said that, there is a technology that I think is the best for cooling average sized structures that is basically ignored by most. The earth tube. By running air through a long corrugated tube buried beneath the frost line, you can tap into the natural stable temperature of the ground. In my area that's 53 degrees. Meaning you can precondition your air to 53 degrees before putting it through an air conditioning system which will raise the temperature to your desired setting. This pretreatment can make a huge difference depending on the outside temp. I really wish knowledge of this technology could be spread because its relatively cheep and effective and can be added to existing structures. You should do a video on that.
The problem is condensation and mold in air intake that can't be taken lightly with these systems. A water loop, with heat exchanger, is better in that aspect.
Since installing the earth tubes requires digging you may as well just skip the tubes and install tubing for a ground source heat pump if this is intended for a residence
Much more effective really and manages humidity in the structure for increased comfort
Only reason to do something like this is when you won't be trying to heat or cool the structure beyond what you get from the ground (greenhouse, maybe a garage)
But as another commenter mentioned, better to make it a liquid circulating system and use a heat exchanger to keep things clean and tidy
@@TheEmbrio The big advantage of geothermal air cooling is that you don't need to worry as much about leaks as with liquid cooling. What I think would be really interesting, is making a homemade air compressor which to pressurize pipes with heatsinks around them, which to get cooled by the intake air for a windmill at the bottom of a solar tower (aka. solar chimney) which to heat the air which rises and accelerates through the tube/tower/chimney pulling more air for the heatsink and windmill.
I think such a system, although it would have plenty of disadvantages (such as needing a tall chimney/pipe/tower, which to be at least a few meters/yards tall), would also have the advantage of working passively while there is sunlight, due to the only moving parts being the windmill, the drive shaft (or alternative), and the air compressor, all 3 of which would be connected (maybe even welded) together, and the bearings needed for all of them. A few cheap imperfect mirrors (i.e. tinfoil + epoxy + tarp + frame) which to focus more light onto the solar tower, in order to cause faster air speeds, which to compress more air and cool the heatsinks faster. The compressed air would likely need a "drip pipe" going to the outside of the building, which to move the condensed water towards the outside, with a shut-off valve for preventing the humidity from completely escaping from the building in really dry climates.
Yep. One of my ideas is to make essentially large "heat pipes" and dig down vertically, then insulate the copper tubing going around them (that has water going through it) towards the upper parts.
The efficiency of the heat pipes would help to cut down on the area and amount of materials needed. Not everyone can afford to, or has the space to, evacuate very long trenches and lay hundreds of feet of tubing, or dig to well like depths. Using heat pipes, you only really need to dig down to where the temps are pretty stable, and then thermally insulate the rest of it.
@@TheEmbrio the DOE.gov paper on it recommends specific tubing to reduce mold growth.
My plan is to install dry-well condensation traps along with appropriate tubing. I'll be installing 150ft soon to see if it works.
Your outfits are awesome. the simplicity, the solid colors. That's my jam.
I had a feeling as soon as 'toughened epoxy' was mentioned, a Henkel cartridge would soon appear. I go after their composite bonding formulas quite often as it's been about the best thing to bond carbon panels to metal substrates as I've found thus far.
On a more related note, I'm waiting on the weather to come around to build a modified aircrete dome I worked on formulating a mix with my graphene additive over the winter as part application test, part workshop build. With innovations in lower powered HVAC solutions and more optimized building materials, generating heat/cooling and retaining it for as long as possible should do wonders for making a modern structure perform like having 24" thick adobe walls.
Love this! I’ve been looking at passive infrared cooling as a possible method for accelerating ground cooling and cooling glacial and polar ice. Start with a wick-less heat pipe embedded vertically in the ice. This will rapidly carry subsurface heat to the surface, when the surface temp is lower than the subsurface temperature. But without a wick, the heat flow cannot be reversed, making it behave like a thermal diode. At the top of the heat pipe use a vapor chamber and passive radiator, with a tuned-emissivity coating. Now heat will flow rapidly to the surface and radiate into space whenever ambient conditions allow it. Got booking large masses like ground or ice this should result in more heat flux out of the mass during colder months, delaying and or reducing melt and runoff in warmer months. Could be useful for thermal batteries (for cooling), but also might be possible to deploy at very large scales to delay glacial melting in key spots or similar issues.
The reason I watched this is because way back in college in my Heat Transfer class on route to my engineering degree, my professor explained radiant cooling and anecdotally explained why people have been able to make ice in the desert by digging a hole and filling a vessel with water at night. The heat radiated into the often clear desert skies at night while absorbing very little heat, enough to make ice.
This was a great experiment! I can see this as a way to boost existing air-conditioning and refrigeration systems to save electricity!
Its always great to nerd out watching your videos! I'm really glad your eye accident didn't turn out worse, and I'm happy you recovered well and are back to making great videos. Thank you!
I love this deep space concept. I live in an area that has more cooling days than heating days. I have a hydronic floor for heating using solar thermal collectors and an in-ground "tank" for thermal storage. I've been playing with a few cooling ideas. I'm very curious how this concept would compare in cost, size and capacity.
The first idea I'm thinking about is a simple buried ground loop to expel the unwanted heat. My initial calculations indicate that I would likely need a fairly substantial sized loop, e.g. 1/4 the square footage of the house and buried at least 3 feet deep. I'm a little concerned with the absorption rate of the ground, as it does not contain a significant amount of moisture.
The second idea is a "Zeer Pot" system. Essentially, prepare an area for sod, install a lawn sprinkler system, cover the area with ground loop PEX, layout the sod and run the sprinklers often enough to keep the area damp and evaporating.
Now considering this high emissivity coating, I might consider building two sided, flat plate DHW collectors. One side with matte black, high absorption coating and glazing and the other side with removable rigid foam panels that would expose the high emissivity coating. During the Winter months the panels would be angled toward the Sun with the foam insulation installed on the backside thereby collecting thermal energy to heat the floors. However, during the Summer months the panels would have the foam backing removed and turned "upside down" exposing the high emissivity side to space.
"Honey, did you remember to flip our outdoor radiators?"
I love this channel! I needed teachers like you 40 years ago... I keep telling my now adult kids that I would have breezed through high school Chem, Physics, Calculus and Functions and Relations if we had the internet way back when. At 56, I still love learning and am obsessed with knowing the hows and why stuff works. I will admit that I have shop envy though!.
Have you tried any of the popular chat bots yet? I refreshed most of what I learned in high school chemistry in just a few days of free time and I’m 28. It’s the next step in learning things quickly.
@@PinkFZeppelin which exactly name a few
@@namo6504 Chatgpt, bing chat, and bard are some examples.
@@PinkFZeppelin ohh thanks 👍
Been enjoying your efforts. Im a retired HVAC trained guy that worked in boat bilges and RV's too. Most fun to install were some residential ground loop heat pumps. They talked of grabbing extra heat to also spin a turbine using the Hot Gas part of its loop, but US Power never continued...
Best heat gatherer I've met involves a copper tube, 8mmx2m long filled partially with a refrigerant... even waxes and oils boil... . The high end of the tube gathered the heated... maybe vaporized fluid and that has been inserted in a very well insulated pipe that contains flowing fluid to storage or even heating uses. Glass tube collector systems make boiling water in artic conditions.
My roof array has 22 tubes, and when i had it connected to my electric water heated our power bill dropped 50% in the summer, 25% winter. San Juan Islands loose sun in the spring and fall but 10% helps. I had used a direct water loop with freeze considerations and lost the array twice from freak 15F nights. Soon i will use an oil or glycerin loop. The 12vdc 10w pump runs from a 30w solar panel so it circulates on even cloudy days.
When it worked it got REALLY hot in august and cpvc pipes going up to the array stretched. I ended up cooling the hot problem by using a pump to give instant hot water by looping under the home to the baths etc and allowing it to be running at 140F using a dryer Tstat clamped to the array loop. The insulated water loop loses enough heat to the crawl space but but boy that water can be HOT.
They sell Temperature Safety valves... cuts hot into the cold and i got one somewhere. I bet you could put similar tubes into a box that has one way glass and a mirror in back... not sure how my glass tube covers like hail BTW.
I'm pretty sure he already made a solar water heater. Those are very effective.
A great way I've found to make large, cheap, low power density heat exchangers is to use corrugated plastic. For $100 you get a 4x8 panel that is rigid, watertight, and even has channels to help guide flow evenly. To make inlet/outlets you can just cut a slit along a hose, open it up and silicone it around the exposed sides of the panel. Plastic panels work great for applications like air to air heat exchange and radiative cooling as the thermal conductivity of the plastic has very little impact on the performance of the system.
it's not a heat exchangre its just a cooler, or basically a Single Panel (Type 10) radiator
In Alabama we have some old houses that have a round thing built in the top with windows that open on the 2nd or 3rd story and its basically free AC, you just open the windows or the door and its sucks so much air through the house even in the summer its a nice cool breeze.
Fantastic stuff as always, and thanks for doing that.
If you ever think you don't need a face mask when you're spraying, I suggest you wear a face mask when spraying, and then examine it afterwards.
Always always always wear a respirator when spraying.
cool stuff. I particularly liked the tie into heat pumps.
I really feel like heatpumps should be integrated into a lot more in houses. We've got HRV's and tight houses now to boost efficiency, but they work even better with a heatpump integrated into them. heat pump hot water tanks as well. Dehumidfiers, heat, cooling, hot water, all of this could be integrated to run off a single compressor unit outside. It could even be complicated a bit so that when you have differing needs (say, AC in the house, but hot water for showers) the heat need not be rejected into the atmosphere, but simply moved and condensed to be used in a different way.
Unfortunately, this sort of thing needs either a high level of integration within a company, or strict standards so that you can piece a system together from different brands.
Oh, i forgot! cooling solar panels and dumping the heat either into the house, or into hot water. The possible combinations are endless!
Using AC condenser heat to warm up hot water in the summer is a really smart idea. Just add a water pump switched on by the blower fan and circulate that hot water to and from a normal boiler. Doing that all day long it might never even have to switch on.
@@markm0000 it's a tad more complicated >< i believe only co2 based heatpumps can bring the temp up high enough for hot water, but surely you could have a small pre-warming tank, or maybe build the entire system with co2 as a refrigerant. There's a lot of little aspects like that though. I find it disappointing that there are all these building codes to increase efficiency, but they still haven't mandated heatpumps. They are by far the most cost effective way of reducing heating energy needs.
We just did a mini-split in my brothers house, and we figure the payback period is only 4-5 years, and that's in a place with cheap electricity.
Tesla uses this approach in its EVs. The enabling device is called the “Octo-valve”.
It is always enjoyable to watch your videos, you have helped me with my research in automotive engine cooling and air conditioning with medium horsepower engines that doesn't cost $5000. Due to the limited room in my engine bay, I can't expand on the standard cooling system. I have a Mopar 1969 440RB in a 1968 Dodge Dart that runs great and cool with the standard radiator and fan system during the winter. Yet, during the extreme hot summers at 103 to 115, I can reach engine temperatures of 230-250. If I could just cool down the engine coolant to 180-190, the optimum temperature. By flowing the coolant out of the radiator, that is still too hot, using a air cooled finned tubing system that runs under the car. From the output of radiator to the rear and then back forward to the engine, by utilizing the air that flows under the car to help get the coolant down to 190, before it goes back into the engine. Your thoughts on the this would be helpful. This home air conditioning system of yours, not for my condo, but to help cool down the interior of my Dart somewhat during these hot summers, if even possible. Thanks for the great videos.
Looking forward to the 2nd part. Also, a respirator during spraying is good example for your viewers. Spraying techniques need a bit of improvement. Videos as always are top notch!
Maybe its an interesting idea to combine this system and the other system you guys made (titled: Revolutionary Air Conditioner!).
Thanks for the interesting content.
Per sure to include the robotic voice reading the script.
I was thinking about that too
Exactly
I would think that one would naturally be more effective than this, but it also only works during the day. It would definitely make sense to add this infrared design to the chain.
I wonder if there might be other passive cooling solutions that would be worth adding. A clay pot cooler might be useful during especially hot days. Its drawback is that it utilizes evaporation for cooling, so it is a waste of water. The challenge there would be finding a relatively simple way to collect and treat the waste water so that it does not waste money (and doesn't reek like hot sewage soup in the sun). Though depending where you are in the world, it could be damaging to the environment if too many people are doing evaporative cooling instead of treating their waste water and letting it continue elsewhere.
Either way, I think this summer calls for a passive cooling drag race. I wanna see where they all stack up.
Absolutely!
The detail you put into preparing the viewer for this topic is fantastic. Thanks for the quality video.
It'd be very interesting to know the amount of heat this device can "move" in terms of watts per square meter. Good video and thanks as always for the quality content.
Nice! I watched NightHawkInLight's video on the same topic when it came out. I'm keen to try build something for my place. What you could do is store the cold air in a big insulated tank and then flow that through radiators. I'm keen to see your follow-up, particularly on how many watts you're actually able to shed per panel in varying conditions.
I need the opposite of this.
Well done may Allah bless you and guide you and give you the best in this world and hereafter.
This is great, and seems like it could be used in line with the split evaporative cooling system you had a couple of years ago. Gaining even 10 degrees below ambient off the AC coolant temperature from evaporative cooling before hitting the radiative cooling stage would be amazing. I have considered putting evaporative cooling around my ac condenser, but haven't done it, maybe that's something you can test this summer? Great stuff thanks for the experiment!
This is really cool. I am curious about the heat transfer rate and heat flux of this bench top experiment. You may have mentioned them. It's been years since I took Heat Transfer, and I no longer practice as a ChemE. But I believe with the DT (Tout-Tin) and a flow rate we could have the heat transfer rate (Q'). With the dimensions of the radiator, we could get the approximate heat flux (Q''). That would help in sizing for implementing this in a larger system.
I am excited to see the next video. I hope you integrate this into a future, updated version of your Solar Air Conditioner from a few years ago.
As a practicing engineer I find it rather calming listening to your work. I hope my elocution will grow to be as smooth as yours. Keep up the good work, you spark joy.
Thank you.
Like anything, practice and if possible, film yourself.
I think that an inverted pyramidal shaped box would be better to avoid reflection back to the radiator. Underneath the radiator, a pyramidal shaped stand, you can vary the angles to optimize.
This was the most interesting thermodynamics video I've watched in years, the last one being the desicant system you built of course :)
Could you do a proof of concept with the cascade system you described to boost the efficiency of a small window unit just to see what kind of numbers it yields? quick and dirty, its so satisfying that these combinations of technology have so many orders of power working in its favor. Heat pumps being beyond 100% efficient makes the system you suggested all the more inticing.
I think innately I've always had this lingering bit of intuition in my head surrounding the power of IR transmissivity and this video really really really allowed me to wrap my brain around the potential of IR thermodynamics. I'm super excited to see more about how to leverage IR transmissivity to move BTU's around. Absolutely awesome, beaming heat into space at the speed of light... so fucking cool I cant even. I wish I knew someone I could share this with that would really appreciate how deep and fun this is.
So good to see an American using metric. 😊 I'm very impressed.
Looking forward to part 2!
I haven't seen a "Members Only" jacket in 40 years. This entire solution would be much cooler if you added parachute pants.
@TechIngredients
Your inventiveness is only exceeded by your industriousness. Thank you for these projects.
A bit off topic but I'd love to see you get into wood/coal Gasifiers. Lots of them are basic Rigs but I bet you could make the best one
I'm just honored that youtube thinks I'm smart enough to be recommended this. 😌
That's a very impressive demonstration of the super coat paint, which I actually saw you make right before I watched this video (watched them in reverse order).
I've known of this phenomenon for some time... in Melbourne, Australia in winter, it rarely goes below 0°C at night, yet car roofs, bonnets and boots, especially on my black car, are often covered in frost in the morning. Doors and other vertical surfaces are not. That this happens so often is down to the mild (by your standards) winter temperatures, which are just cold enough to allow the few degrees of supercooling to produce a very noticeable effect, yet not cold enough for air temperature to account for it alone.
My friends asked me how it could possibly happen (I'm known for knowing "a fair bit about a fair bit"), and I worked out what was going on. I do have a large general scientific knowledge but my strength is being able to take that and work out things I don't know. I could have looked it up of course but it's way more satisfying for me to work it out, and much more impressive to my friends.
Oh, "bonnets" are "hoods", and "boots" are "trunks" in this context.😂
The most gratifying part of this for me begins at 14:16 . I've paired with many people over the years and for many things, from years-long technical projects to carrying a couch up a flight of stairs. The value of a trusted and competent partner is thrice his weight in gold multiplied by the frustration you'd experience should he be incompetent. The same applies to teams but the frustration is never so great as when mano a mano. To get back on topic, increased frustration levels can also increase the amount of heat you radiate!
this guy gives me walter white vibes
That's scientist pr engineer vibes I think you're getting
You mean Heisenberg
More like a nerdy Robin Williams/Mork to me, and I love it!
Say you’re gen z without saying your gen z
@@bhavishankarHeisenberg is the drug criminal, Walter White was still the straight chemistry teacher
I love the idea and method of action. The attention to detail is amazing too. Completion of this singular plan will yield lots of knowledge.
You guys always put out fascinating, well explained videos.
This is very cool! (No pun intended.) I have always dreamed of having a workshop like you guys do, and so I got an old historical building.. but as I do work on it, one of the things I have been wondering about is when I go to install or repair some of the old heating/cooling systems, and the costs associated. I have a big flat roof, so I was wondering about solar panels, but something like this would be far more useful I think. Excited to see where this goes, do you think copper sheet's thermal conductivity would make it worth replacing aluminum? Or would the cost not be worth it?
IMHO, Aluminium is used because of two properties that it has:
1) It is silver in colour and very reflective.
2) It has a self sealing layer of oxide that makes it quite suitable for outdoor use.
I'm used to hanging out with idiots, and its concerning at times. This comment section is comforting because I may be the dumbest one here.
Oh no way I am the dumbest here. After this I'll probably watch YTP. 😂
I will watch it.
when painting at 18:10 you need to wear a mask
Unfortunately there’s no incentive to implement any of this because landlords own the buildings but don’t care how cool they are and don’t pay for electricity, and renters can’t afford to invest in a place they may only live/work for a single year.
I made an experiment of underground tunnel, very small one on my lot and put a fan on the edge of that tunnel. The design was a pipe from my rooftop around my garden, traveling all the way underground getting sucked with the fan. Its not as cool as aircon but its cooler than an actual air fan is giving. The idea is the fresh air from my garden, cools of the air while traveling on the tunnel until its released on the fan sucking the air from my rooftop pipe. So I feel comfortable because the air comes from my garden.
I think we really need to take a book from nature, Transpiration from trees is known to cool down the area dramatically.
covering roofs with living foliage likely would cause cooling inside the building. or possibly creating a inorganic material that transpires through evaporation.
you'll often find that park benches are cooler when under a tree than under a roof/pavilion.
Love this so much. Science, engineering, construction, and informed, soothing narration.
Thanks!
Imagine combining that with one of your previous project where you made that complex air conditioning device
The clarity of this explanation is remarkable…. Oh thanks you and your team… 🙏
Awesome demonstration and technology. Using the abundant absence of heat present at high altitudes to passively cool air on the surface is an amazing idea. Thank you for sharing.
I installed an pre-cooler on my AC when I lived in Arizona. I was an evaporative type that provided as much as 20 degree F air temperature reduction on the condenser side. Unfortunately it only worked well when ambient relative air humidity was below 8 -10% (usually from March through mid-June). The drawback was that it caused some rust and degradation on the AC parts.
I thought of experimenting with using water from the deep well because it comes out of the ground at about 45 - 50 degrees F. year around. The water would pass through a heat exchanger before it gets to the pressure tank (for use in the house or to water a garden, lawns etc.). It takes some electrical power to pump the water too.
One great way to provide clamping force in a situation like that is to use a vacuum system, even something as simple as a Space Saver for smaller projects. Pull a vacuum and the atmosphere clamps down. Add extra clamping and you're golden!
I lived in South Florida for a while, and during the summer I could feel the heat radiating down through the ceiling. My home had light grey shingles. I decided to roll on a super reflective coating over the shingles for two reasons. I believe the coating was advertised as over 80% reflective, and it was hurricane rated.
It made a huge difference.. No more radiant heat from the ceiling. The attic temperature dropped from unbearable to room temperature. My electric bill was nearly cut by half, and the roof survived Hurricane Irma.
I was thinking about this sort of thing a few years ago. The opposite of a solar thermal collector. Good to see someone build one.
You can also make ice when the air temperature is above freezing by allowing the infrared heat to escape to outer space on a clear night. That’s why you get frost on your windshield on a clear night when it’s above freezing. Park in the shade and you won’t get frost.
This got to be one of the best teachers I have seen in my entire life.
Thanks!
Everytime I come back to this channel I get reminded just how amazing it is. I always love the science, engineering and physics exercise that these videos are. Very surprised you're not over 1mil subs yet. Sending good vibes from Florida
Quite a fascinating project sir! I've used plastic wrap over windows on mobile homes my whole life. Works great.
Great job. I will implement a model I already have in mind to cool my house in semi desert in Argentina. Thank you!
This is beyond excellent material that I just happened upon and I love it want to see you around doing this as long as you'd like! My only worry is that when you are spraying your super sealant is that you don't use a mask when atomizing those particles getting into your lungs 🫁.I lost a friend to silicosis and is hate to see your time come up shorter than it could have been. Looking forward to more of your content... New subscriber 🥳🥳🥳😊
I would love to see a series of videos on passive heating and cooling systems used historically like thermal sinks, shaded windows, spiral chimneys, domes, alleyways, orientation to the sun and courtyards. The ones used for thousands of years in the middle east and south east asia.
Determine which ones add the most effect and comfort, and the ones that work best - Push those to the extreme to show where they hit their limit of effectiveness.
We need a solid engineering/science look at these techniques that don't use fancy coatings or power, just simple low maintenance materials such as mud, brick, wood, sand and stone. This would be super helpful for lowering our footprint and power usage with ancient but forgotten techniques.
Love your videos! Keep up the fantastic work!
cc
My thanks for mentioning all the actual materials and not just the type. I live in the EU and a lot of things are just different enough that things like this might not work for example with the plastic wrap, now I can check if it is actually poly ethylene
I have a pneumatic applicator for epoxies. It’s made by 3M and it works fantastic for big projects like that. I do body work for a living, so I use it just about every day. No more cramped hands from squeezing the epoxy out.
I love your work, and thank you for education and sharing. PLEASE wear a really good, maybe a positive pressure Respirator! Especially when spraying-- anything! I want you to be around a long time, with good health.
I am a big fan of Patreon and looked at your channel briefly. I’m shocked I made such a poor decision and didn’t subscribe because I am more into computers. Your channel is fantastic and I am look forward to seeing future videos!!