As I'm watching this I'm looking right at my carter carb. It is a bit later- right after the war- but all of the parts and practices are identical. Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Might be a 636 S carbi, they came out between 1947 & 1950, installed on CJ2A & CJ3A. Only difference is the main throttle rod linkage is physically different to the type fitted to the mb & gpw. Can still be used, but need to add an attachment for the hand throttle cable. Rest of the carbi is basically same. I have the 636 S on my gpw.
Folks without float level tool, you can set float level holding bowl lid upside down. Float must sit parrel to bowl lid. By doing this, fuel level will physically be just below half way mark in the bowl. Never had any problems with flooding or fuel starvation. If you want to do an additional confirmation check after the carbi has been installed &, engine is normal operating temperature from running, switch motor off. Remove air horn, disconnect fuel pipe attached to bowl lid. Disconnect throttle rod C clip that attaches to choke linkage on top of bowl lid. Carefully seperate rod from bowl lid, lift lid off main body. Inspect fuel level, not happy with fuel level in bowl, level adjustment can be done by removing float pin & float. Using long nose plyers, physically bend float center tab either up or down depending if you want to increase or decrease fuel level. Works same principle as toilet. Level drops/system refills tank. I'm 90% sure you won't have to a readjust. When reinstalling bowl lid, be really careful not to bend main jet metering rod, made of soft material. Metering rod must line up with center hole in the main metering jet located bottom, fuel bowl off center to venturi side of bowl. It's good practice to rub/massage engine oil on accelerator pump plunger leather skirt, this helps soften, & also inside around the top of the pump cylinder in main body. This allows for easy bowl lid installation. You can feel pump skirt rubbing sides wall of pump cylinder as you reposition bowl lid onto main body. Check this vid may be helpful. W/O CARTER JEEP WILLYS.
Excellent and useful video. I would, however, highly recommend replacing the float pin as they do tend to wear and can cause sticking. I get mine from Mike's Carburettor Parts in the US as I don't currently know of a source in the UK but they wouldn't be difficult to turn on a model lathe. Also, don't remove both of the larger blanking plugs. There are two but the repair kits only ever supply one! I also get my bodies vapour blasted in Yeovil, Somerset, by Chameleon Blasting, who do a really good job.
My WO is a '51 as is my CJ3A. My Go Devil is newer, perhaps an M38 or a DJ3A. it doesn't have a rope rear main seal, But a neoprene seal. My master WO kit does not come with a fine brass screen on the bottom tread in cap.
Causes of float level been too high in bowl from float tab set high = high bowl level, a leaking needle & seat or fracture in float, where top & bottom sections of float are soldered together allowing float to fill up, & sink down opening needle & seat to allow more fuel into bowl. Will cause carbi to flood. Can test float by placing in container of water. Push/submerge float to see if water enters the float by any bubbles out of float. Then remove float out, shake to hear any water sloshing around inside. If so, resolder or replace.
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As I'm watching this I'm looking right at my carter carb. It is a bit later- right after the war- but all of the parts and practices are identical. Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Might be a 636 S carbi, they came out between 1947 & 1950, installed on CJ2A & CJ3A. Only difference is the main throttle rod linkage is physically different to the type fitted to the mb & gpw. Can still be used, but need to add an attachment for the hand throttle cable. Rest of the carbi is basically same. I have the 636 S on my gpw.
Great video. Thanks!
Folks without float level tool, you can set float level holding bowl lid upside down. Float must sit parrel to bowl lid. By doing this, fuel level will physically be just below half way mark in the bowl. Never had any problems with flooding or fuel starvation. If you want to do an additional confirmation check after the carbi has been installed &, engine is normal operating temperature from running, switch motor off. Remove air horn, disconnect fuel pipe attached to bowl lid. Disconnect throttle rod C clip that attaches to choke linkage on top of bowl lid. Carefully seperate rod from bowl lid, lift lid off main body. Inspect fuel level, not happy with fuel level in bowl, level adjustment can be done by removing float pin & float. Using long nose plyers, physically bend float center tab either up or down depending if you want to increase or decrease fuel level. Works same principle as toilet. Level drops/system refills tank. I'm 90% sure you won't have to a readjust. When reinstalling bowl lid, be really careful not to bend main jet metering rod, made of soft material. Metering rod must line up with center hole in the main metering jet located bottom, fuel bowl off center to venturi side of bowl. It's good practice to rub/massage engine oil on accelerator pump plunger leather skirt, this helps soften, & also inside around the top of the pump cylinder in main body. This allows for easy bowl lid installation. You can feel pump skirt rubbing sides wall of pump cylinder as you reposition bowl lid onto main body.
Check this vid may be helpful.
W/O CARTER JEEP WILLYS.
I needed this, great information, you’re the Man
Excellent and useful video. I would, however, highly recommend replacing the float pin as they do tend to wear and can cause sticking. I get mine from Mike's Carburettor Parts in the US as I don't currently know of a source in the UK but they wouldn't be difficult to turn on a model lathe. Also, don't remove both of the larger blanking plugs. There are two but the repair kits only ever supply one! I also get my bodies vapour blasted in Yeovil, Somerset, by Chameleon Blasting, who do a really good job.
I’ve never fooled with one of these early Carter’s. My gosh I’ve never seen to many jets for a one barrel!!!
Very helpful, thank you!
No worries!
My float was exactly the same. No idea why.
My WO is a '51 as is my CJ3A. My Go Devil is newer, perhaps an M38 or a DJ3A. it doesn't have a rope rear main seal, But a neoprene seal.
My master WO kit does not come with a fine brass screen on the bottom tread in cap.
This series will be very useful when I rebuild my carburetor. Also, where in the world did you get that many Carburetors?!?
Pro tip: you can watch series on KaldroStream. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Romeo Zaire Yea, been using KaldroStream for since december myself =)
I wonder if that float that was set so high was a leaker or was trying to compensate for a bed needle seat???🤔
Causes of float level been too high in bowl from float tab set high = high bowl level, a leaking needle & seat or fracture in float, where top & bottom sections of float are soldered together allowing float to fill up, & sink down opening needle & seat to allow more fuel into bowl. Will cause carbi to flood. Can test float by placing in container of water. Push/submerge float to see if water enters the float by any bubbles out of float. Then remove float out, shake to hear any water sloshing around inside. If so, resolder or replace.
Installed new w/o carb on my CJ2A. Idols fine but stalls when speeded up. What could the problem be?
Y WO is from 1953. Would the rebuild be the same??
16 minutes on setting the float?
No entender