I done all this, but realized the pinned off bottom part had rubber washers, I filled the roll pin area with high temp silicon before repinning, works perfect, this dude is a hero to squrebody's .
there ya go, didn't know if you were going to do my idea or not, I just took and welded upper and lower areas of my shifting collar --I call it on the 465 lever and then you eliminate the damn roll pin crap!! I found two exact sized key-ways, like on a pulley and motor shaft stuck them through the two holes on the tower and welded them solid also. Then you've got a square pin in a square bore!!Bingo no slop at all. Haven't watched anymore of your 465 videos but believe you and I are on same track to rebuild!!!! Jim.
HEY GEB I JUST GOT A 84 AND MY SON A 79. WE BOTH HAVE THE TRANS. THEM THINGS ARE TANKS. I LOVE EM GOING UP THAT'S THE FIRST TRUCK I LEARNED ON. WE JUST PUT A NEW CLUTCH KIT IN MY SONS TRUCK. I'M GOING TO DO THIS TO BOTH OF OUR TRUCKS. THANKS MAN - I'M 55 AND STILL LOVE WRENCHING
"How to turn a bullet proof trans. Into the hulk"! just found your videos last night and have already gotten myself prepped to get a kit to tackle my 80 k10 build (full project) cab swap down! thank you for all your shared knowledge and I love the "farm machining" bits, used many at work in a pinch myself! keep the vids coming and may God bless you as well
Good video. I have 3 vehicles right now with sm465. And a spare. With your videos, i will be rebuilding each one and swapping out as needed. And on 2 of them i will do twin stick on the np205
Hey buddy i love the videos keep them coming, i have a 1984 gmc jimmy and i recently did a cool American flag head liner and i think itd be awesome in your truck and its a big satisfaction to do it yourself, just bought a sm465/np205 to throw behind my 6.2 in my jimmy and your videos help alot love the diy
Good video. I had a '71 3/4 ton with a SM465, and what I found out (a couple times) is if you power shift (or just speed shift) a SM465, sometimes the forks lock up, one partially in one gear, and the other partially in another. What happens is you only have neutral all the way across, no gears. Both times I had to pull the shift lever off, take a long screwdriver and pop both forks back into neutral. Not sure if the slop contributed to it, but then....these transmissions were never made for drag racing. :D Eventually I snapped the input shaft right at the clutch disc, replaced the input shaft, and never raced it again. Keep up the good videos!!
im assuming that what iv bin dealing with for some time. i dont power shift just relax an normal shif but recently a few days ago i developed alot of sloppy play an it become a nuisance to shift into any gear for a hot minute XD
iI have also experienced this issue. I found that if i shake the shifter left to right (like you are looking for neutral); as fast as possible it will vibrate things inside the case enough to fall out of the jammed position back into neutral.
Just a little tip when tig welding after you let off the petal and the arc stops let the gas flow for a few seconds after while the puddle cools its called post flow. Ps thank you for your videos they helped me rebuild and twin stick my 205 im waiting for the chrome molly support shaft. And as always God bless
Yeah I almost gave up on building my truck to a manual transmission, but checking out and finding out that automatics have more problems than the sm465, on my kitchen table tonight I was able to.get the reverse idler gear into my clean case, the compound shaft is done and inserted into the case . Now to order the rebuild kit. So did you change all your shifting forks, my reverse fork has no coating, and the others have a little peeling, I just think it's better to change out any suspect part. My reverse idler gear was haberdasher so I replaced it, I replaced all the parts for 3 gear fix. You have great videos , and lots of videos on you tube have foul language and your always clean, and the way you treat your boys, like a good dad does. Thanks again.
willaim winchell thank you for the kind words and I’m glad you like my vids! I ended up selling the whole project before I rebuilt the top cover but I agree with you that any suspect parts should be replaced 👍🏼. I appreciate your comments and question! God bless!
Semper Fi. I have a '68 C/10 Stepside with a 292 L6 and SM465 Tranny. Sometimes, when I'm cruising a sidestreet in Third, the whole shifter will pop out, and then I'm cruising in Neutral. I only notice it when I add accelerator. What gives? If I keep a hand on the shiftstick, it stays. Always stays in Second and Fourth. I do occasionally use First to get out of deep dirt in my back driveway.
I just found your videos, you should produce those shifter bolts for us guys who don't have such a nice shop. We could set the depth by using thin shims.
I watched this video and my shifter came out so smooth, thank you so much for posting this video. When I put my truck back together, the shifter went back in just as smooth. My only problem is now is, its stuck, the lever only moves side to side and can't go into any gear. Is there some trick I'm missing when I reinstall the shifter. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I've had this happen too. Removing it and reinstalling it takes care of it in my experience as long as the mods were performed correctly. I haven't visited my video recently but I think I mention that it is possible for the pivots in the top cover to become too stiff after the mod and a bit of relief might be necessary. Hope that helps out, God bless!
i admire your dedication, i would have thrown that t shirt out a long time ago haha just messing with you :) good video..........i am trying to decide whether to do a sm465 or an Nv4500........ive only driven an sm465 once and it was horrible, but if i could make it more drive able its certainly a more affordable option.
Haha thanks for noticing! I'm really glad you like the vid! I think the choice between SM465 and NV4500 depends on the use of the truck. If it were to hit the highway at all I would prefer an NV4500, but then I feel like the SM465 will handle higher torque and HP. It is a tough decision for sure! Thank you for commenting, God bless!
Yea good point, Im building my K20 to be a daily driver/tow rig. My plan has always been to use an Nv4500 behind my 6.0L Lq9 engine. But the price always has me looking for other options. Ill just be patient and save the money for nv4500. Thanks again, what part of the country are you in?
The bottom piece that you welded the pin does it need to have forwards/backwards motion or it doesn’t matter ? Like could it just be a solid piece with absolutely no movement ?
Hey Geb, you ran a steel Lakewood bellbousing on your 4x4, right? Did that workout well? Just asking because the aluminum seem prone to breaking & the Lakewood seems prone to flexing. Thanks again!
Logan's Hot Rod & 4X4 I think steel is the way to go but be sure to brace it. They all need to be braced from the transfer case to the bell housing. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. God bless!
Any idea why the lowest part of the shifter, the piece that touches the forks, is originally made so that it has slop? I would not remove the slop without knowing why it is there. I have a small 2nd/3rd gear pop-out problem. My shifter was fine (not worn out), so I tried removing that said slop to see if there was any difference. I was thinking maybe the forks are worn so I would get just a little more movement out of them. Didn't seem to do anything so I put it back like it was
That is a great question and I contemplated that myself. I am under the impression that it was originally assembled in that manner because the lower pieces are hardened and it is not necessary for the shifter stem to be hardened, so they were built separately then assembled. I don't believe they were ever designed to be sloppy but with wear they develop some play. I did some research and I am not the first one to do this modification so there are many other folks out there running this modification with no issues- that helped with my decision to do the mod as well... To address your comment about it popping out of gear, take a look at my SM 465 rebuild series if you have not already. the kit I installed in those videos is designed to eliminate the pop out issues. The "popping out of gear" problem has nothing to do with the shifter or the forks- it has to do with some ever so slight flexing of a snap ring that holds 3rd gear- the kit that I installed eliminates the flex of the snap ring with the addition of a steel collar. I hope this helps! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!! God Bless!!
This is true, i noticed the o'rings seemed to be made of urethane type material, Im wondering if using new simular or even rubber o'rings will give the shifter a firm but shock absorbing feel
Awesome amazing info! Thanks! Mm so I think you were saying tighten them to where the flat spots are vertical to the top cover? Noticed you were a bit tongue tied there great job though!
Bozo Scooter haha thank you, I will have to watch it to see what you’re talking about. I wouldn’t doubt it, I’m not always very articulate. Thank you for watching!
+GebBuilt i did the shifter slop decrease other than the new roll pins for the top cover as mine were fine. But it does not like shifting into 3rd. Any ideas?? Im assuming the shifter slop helped my worn 3rd gear shift smoother before.
+GebBuilt hey sorry for asking multiple questions, i really have no experience in this field and you are pretty much an expert in my eyes. The truck shifts fine into 2nd/4th/ and reverse and does not like going into 1/3 i removed the pins that made my shifter slop go away in the hopes i could bandaid fix the truck but that didnt work. Do you believe i would be well off taking off my top shifter housing and replacing the forks/whatever they ride on, and reinstalling?? I dont really want to drop the time/money into rebuilding the full transmission as it is in pretty good shape from what i can tell. It does not go into first like at all, and i can get it to shift into 3rd but it takes alot of finaggeling and sometimes it wont go no matter how hard i try. Thanks for the help thus far.
+chris lessner Yes I think you would benefit from rebuilding the top cover- forks etc. I still need to re build my top cover to finish out my SM465 series. I have the parts, but just haven't had the time to do it and post a vid.
my shifter went out a few days ago, already had it rebuild but never replaced the shifter components, now theirs alot of slop, would this cure it after replacing the bearing?
i noticed you started to touch base on the later models with the aluminum top cover, does anyone know if its possible to preform the same modifications to an aluminum top cover compared to the cast.?
I believe you can make the exact same mods, the only differences are the look of the top cover, the material of the top cover, and location of the vent hole. Thank you much for watching and commenting! God bless
Just be damn sure you remember aluminum is SOFT !!! I would suggest to swap out that alum. cover for a cast cover. Your mods will hold up better if you are a HARD driver like me with my '69 3/4 ton Chevy 4x4 with 475hp.
@GebBuilt those grooves in the part of the shifter were you took that little roll pin out from were designed in to have rubber O rings in them or some sore of rubber the cushion the shifting, on your shifter those rubber 0 rings AWOL.
I haven't spent a ton of time studying the top cover, but with all the slop for the shifter, and no seal, what is the point of the vent tube in the first place? Those grooves are for rubber(?) type o-rings. That's why they get so darn sloppy. Once those fail, it gets very sloppy.
Great question! I do see where some pressure could vent out the shifter opening but it would never be a constant, proper, reliable opening to vent the specified amount of pressure that the gear box could create, plus I’m sure the tolerance was closer straight out of the factory. Thank you for the input! God bless!
They make a "Double Roll-Pin" that is a roll-pin inside another pin. You are on the right track!
I done all this, but realized the pinned off bottom part had rubber washers, I filled the roll pin area with high temp silicon before repinning, works perfect, this dude is a hero to squrebody's .
there ya go, didn't know if you were going to do my idea or not, I just took and welded upper and lower areas of my shifting collar --I call it on the 465 lever and then you eliminate the damn roll pin crap!! I found two exact sized key-ways, like on a pulley and motor shaft stuck them through the two holes on the tower and welded them solid also. Then you've got a square pin in a square bore!!Bingo no slop at all. Haven't watched anymore of your 465 videos but believe you and I are on same track to rebuild!!!! Jim.
HEY GEB I JUST GOT A 84 AND MY SON A 79. WE BOTH HAVE THE TRANS. THEM THINGS ARE TANKS. I LOVE EM GOING UP THAT'S THE FIRST TRUCK I LEARNED ON. WE JUST PUT A NEW CLUTCH KIT IN MY SONS TRUCK. I'M GOING TO DO THIS TO BOTH OF OUR TRUCKS. THANKS MAN - I'M 55 AND STILL LOVE WRENCHING
Dave Palmatier awesome! Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
Keep up the good work on these vids, I can't wait to see your truck all done and built up man!
"How to turn a bullet proof trans. Into the hulk"! just found your videos last night and have already gotten myself prepped to get a kit to tackle my 80 k10 build (full project) cab swap down! thank you for all your shared knowledge and I love the "farm machining" bits, used many at work in a pinch myself! keep the vids coming and may God bless you as well
Thank you Sir!! I'm so glad my stuff helps and motivates!! God bless Brother!
Great video. Can't wait to try this on my daughter's 68 K10. Very informative, thanks for sharing.
I'm so glad you enjoyed! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave the kind words! God bless!
Sweet fix! Doing mine today. I'm no safety nazi but you're a brave man holding that bolt with your fingers while grinding it!
Oh man that's a stupid laziness habit not bravery haha! I'm so glad you enjoyed the vid! Thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
Good video. I have 3 vehicles right now with sm465. And a spare. With your videos, i will be rebuilding each one and swapping out as needed. And on 2 of them i will do twin stick on the np205
I like the roll pin inside a roll pin, works fine , much more enjoyable to drive my truck now
Hey buddy i love the videos keep them coming, i have a 1984 gmc jimmy and i recently did a cool American flag head liner and i think itd be awesome in your truck and its a big satisfaction to do it yourself, just bought a sm465/np205 to throw behind my 6.2 in my jimmy and your videos help alot love the diy
ohthatdudekyle Excellent headliner idea! I'm an old 6.2 guy myself too! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks Josh Campbell! I can't wait either, it's been slow going.
You could have just used rubber orings in the groves of the shifter paw
Those groves in that end piece are for o rings in each grove!!
J.J. Clingman thank you! I am in Newton by the way. So cool you have a bunch of these in a shed!👍🏼
Good video. I had a '71 3/4 ton with a SM465, and what I found out (a couple times) is if you power shift (or just speed shift) a SM465, sometimes the forks lock up, one partially in one gear, and the other partially in another. What happens is you only have neutral all the way across, no gears. Both times I had to pull the shift lever off, take a long screwdriver and pop both forks back into neutral. Not sure if the slop contributed to it, but then....these transmissions were never made for drag racing. :D Eventually I snapped the input shaft right at the clutch disc, replaced the input shaft, and never raced it again. Keep up the good videos!!
Thanks for watching! Thanks for the input! God bless
im assuming that what iv bin dealing with for some time. i dont power shift just relax an normal shif but recently a few days ago i developed alot of sloppy play an it become a nuisance to shift into any gear for a hot minute XD
iI have also experienced this issue. I found that if i shake the shifter left to right (like you are looking for neutral); as fast as possible it will vibrate things inside the case enough to fall out of the jammed position back into neutral.
Where can I get new shifter forks and rebuild kit for Muncie sm465 3-speed transmission
Just a little tip when tig welding after you let off the petal and the arc stops let the gas flow for a few seconds after while the puddle cools its called post flow. Ps thank you for your videos they helped me rebuild and twin stick my 205 im waiting for the chrome molly support shaft. And as always God bless
jarren gabaldon thanks again!! I get a little anxious sometimes- especially welding and I overlook the basics! Thanks for the reminder! God bless!!
GebBuilt No problem. sm465 isnt slopy but its loud the shifter vibrates alot any tips?
Yeah I almost gave up on building my truck to a manual transmission, but checking out and finding out that automatics have more problems than the sm465, on my kitchen table tonight I was able to.get the reverse idler gear into my clean case, the compound shaft is done and inserted into the case . Now to order the rebuild kit. So did you change all your shifting forks, my reverse fork has no coating, and the others have a little peeling, I just think it's better to change out any suspect part. My reverse idler gear was haberdasher so I replaced it, I replaced all the parts for 3 gear fix. You have great videos , and lots of videos on you tube have foul language and your always clean, and the way you treat your boys, like a good dad does. Thanks again.
willaim winchell thank you for the kind words and I’m glad you like my vids! I ended up selling the whole project before I rebuilt the top cover but I agree with you that any suspect parts should be replaced 👍🏼. I appreciate your comments and question! God bless!
Semper Fi. I have a '68 C/10 Stepside with a 292 L6 and SM465 Tranny. Sometimes, when I'm cruising a sidestreet in Third, the whole shifter will pop out, and then I'm cruising in Neutral. I only notice it when I add accelerator. What gives? If I keep a hand on the shiftstick, it stays. Always stays in Second and Fourth. I do occasionally use First to get out of deep dirt in my back driveway.
I just found your videos, you should produce those shifter bolts for us guys who don't have such a nice shop. We could set the depth by using thin shims.
Almon Jacob that sounds like a great idea, thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
Is there a bushing I need to do I've done this and still have slop
I watched this video and my shifter came out so smooth, thank you so much for posting this video. When I put my truck back together, the shifter went back in just as smooth. My only problem is now is, its stuck, the lever only moves side to side and can't go into any gear. Is there some trick I'm missing when I reinstall the shifter. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I've had this happen too. Removing it and reinstalling it takes care of it in my experience as long as the mods were performed correctly. I haven't visited my video recently but I think I mention that it is possible for the pivots in the top cover to become too stiff after the mod and a bit of relief might be necessary. Hope that helps out, God bless!
i admire your dedication, i would have thrown that t shirt out a long time ago haha just messing with you :) good video..........i am trying to decide whether to do a sm465 or an Nv4500........ive only driven an sm465 once and it was horrible, but if i could make it more drive able its certainly a more affordable option.
Haha thanks for noticing! I'm really glad you like the vid! I think the choice between SM465 and NV4500 depends on the use of the truck. If it were to hit the highway at all I would prefer an NV4500, but then I feel like the SM465 will handle higher torque and HP. It is a tough decision for sure! Thank you for commenting, God bless!
Yea good point, Im building my K20 to be a daily driver/tow rig. My plan has always been to use an Nv4500 behind my 6.0L Lq9 engine. But the price always has me looking for other options. Ill just be patient and save the money for nv4500. Thanks again, what part of the country are you in?
Yes I'd definitely save up for the NV4500. I'm in the Midwest.
The bottom piece that you welded the pin does it need to have forwards/backwards motion or it doesn’t matter ? Like could it just be a solid piece with absolutely no movement ?
It works either way. I like it welded. The whole transmission feels tighter
Hey Geb, you ran a steel Lakewood bellbousing on your 4x4, right? Did that workout well? Just asking because the aluminum seem prone to breaking & the Lakewood seems prone to flexing. Thanks again!
Logan's Hot Rod & 4X4 I think steel is the way to go but be sure to brace it. They all need to be braced from the transfer case to the bell housing. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. God bless!
GebBuilt: got it, no problem, thanks again for all the excellent videos!
Any idea why the lowest part of the shifter, the piece that touches the forks, is originally made so that it has slop? I would not remove the slop without knowing why it is there. I have a small 2nd/3rd gear pop-out problem. My shifter was fine (not worn out), so I tried removing that said slop to see if there was any difference. I was thinking maybe the forks are worn so I would get just a little more movement out of them. Didn't seem to do anything so I put it back like it was
That is a great question and I contemplated that myself. I am under the impression that it was originally assembled in that manner because the lower pieces are hardened and it is not necessary for the shifter stem to be hardened, so they were built separately then assembled. I don't believe they were ever designed to be sloppy but with wear they develop some play. I did some research and I am not the first one to do this modification so there are many other folks out there running this modification with no issues- that helped with my decision to do the mod as well... To address your comment about it popping out of gear, take a look at my SM 465 rebuild series if you have not already. the kit I installed in those videos is designed to eliminate the pop out issues. The "popping out of gear" problem has nothing to do with the shifter or the forks- it has to do with some ever so slight flexing of a snap ring that holds 3rd gear- the kit that I installed eliminates the flex of the snap ring with the addition of a steel collar. I hope this helps! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!! God Bless!!
the groves in the tip piece i think are for o-rings to get less slop..
This is true, i noticed the o'rings seemed to be made of urethane type material, Im wondering if using new simular or even rubber o'rings will give the shifter a firm but shock absorbing feel
Semper Fi
A flat sided pin fitting snug in in a grove,and then locking the pins (bolts) down.How does it pivot ?
Great question, it is not so snug that it will not pivot, but snug enough to remove some of the slop. Hope that helps, God bless!
Was thinking the same thing
Awesome amazing info! Thanks! Mm so I think you were saying tighten them to where the flat spots are vertical to the top cover? Noticed you were a bit tongue tied there great job though!
Bozo Scooter haha thank you, I will have to watch it to see what you’re talking about. I wouldn’t doubt it, I’m not always very articulate. Thank you for watching!
The bottom piece you were going to put a 3/16" roll pin in, could you have just welded that? Just wondering thought it might be a good idea.
I would suggest the roll pin as a safety measure. Great question, God bless!
GebBuilt For sure but you can weld that piece to take out the slop?
Yes I welded that too.
+GebBuilt i did the shifter slop decrease other than the new roll pins for the top cover as mine were fine. But it does not like shifting into 3rd. Any ideas?? Im assuming the shifter slop helped my worn 3rd gear shift smoother before.
Could be a couple of things including worn or bent shift forks, detents, shift collar. I would suggest a rebuild. Thank you and God bless.
+GebBuilt hey sorry for asking multiple questions, i really have no experience in this field and you are pretty much an expert in my eyes. The truck shifts fine into 2nd/4th/ and reverse and does not like going into 1/3 i removed the pins that made my shifter slop go away in the hopes i could bandaid fix the truck but that didnt work. Do you believe i would be well off taking off my top shifter housing and replacing the forks/whatever they ride on, and reinstalling?? I dont really want to drop the time/money into rebuilding the full transmission as it is in pretty good shape from what i can tell. It does not go into first like at all, and i can get it to shift into 3rd but it takes alot of finaggeling and sometimes it wont go no matter how hard i try. Thanks for the help thus far.
+chris lessner Yes I think you would benefit from rebuilding the top cover- forks etc. I still need to re build my top cover to finish out my SM465 series. I have the parts, but just haven't had the time to do it and post a vid.
my shifter went out a few days ago, already had it rebuild but never replaced the shifter components, now theirs alot of slop, would this cure it after replacing the bearing?
I would say yes it will cure your sloppy shifter! Thank you! God bless!!
Does anyone know who makes a slave cylinder that will work on this trans when using headers on the 90 suburban?
Man you got me on that one, hopefully another viewer can help you out! Otherwise I'd scour the internet. Thank you for your tough question! God bless!
i noticed you started to touch base on the later models with the aluminum top cover, does anyone know if its possible to preform the same modifications to an aluminum top cover compared to the cast.?
I believe you can make the exact same mods, the only differences are the look of the top cover, the material of the top cover, and location of the vent hole. Thank you much for watching and commenting! God bless
Thanks again geb, always have and will continue to. Dido!
Just be damn sure you remember aluminum is SOFT !!! I would suggest to swap out that alum. cover for a cast cover. Your mods will hold up better if you are a HARD driver like me with my '69 3/4 ton Chevy 4x4 with 475hp.
I need to do the same thing haha
@GebBuilt those grooves in the part of the shifter were you took that little roll pin out from were designed in to have rubber O rings in them or some sore of rubber the cushion the shifting, on your shifter those rubber 0 rings AWOL.
I haven't spent a ton of time studying the top cover, but with all the slop for the shifter, and no seal, what is the point of the vent tube in the first place?
Those grooves are for rubber(?) type o-rings. That's why they get so darn sloppy. Once those fail, it gets very sloppy.
Great question! I do see where some pressure could vent out the shifter opening but it would never be a constant, proper, reliable opening to vent the specified amount of pressure that the gear box could create, plus I’m sure the tolerance was closer straight out of the factory. Thank you for the input! God bless!