I prefer to torque the bolts on the shocks once the shock is positioned in both brackets and the axle is loaded with the weight of the vehicle, this will unload the bushing which is evident at 8:54.
Great Video. I used it to prepare for my replacing my shocks on our 2018 GMC Yukon Denali. It actually was easier than this video I think, it only took 2.5 to 3 hours taking my time. There was no need to take the spare tire out, I had plenty of room. Unfortunately, I think I need to replace the front pair. I used OEM shocks from Rock Auto, but the price difference was negligible from E-Bay and Amazon.
I just did the front video for the struts. th-cam.com/video/cgGMCgP0vZ4/w-d-xo.html I have 106k miles on mine and were leaking oil. They only last about 75k and the car was ridding so bad. Very easy install but I waited too long and messed up my tires. For the rear you can do the shocks but its easier for me for the video to remove the spare tire. Thanks
Great video. For the passenger side, you can get to the top boot from the piste if you use a knuckle on your ratchet. Thats what I did as I didn’t want to take anything else off.
Fantastic video mine is riding pretty bad I was thinking it was the tires but will take a look at this option. thanks Also loved the idea of using the bolt to line up the top of the shock 👍
I replaced the front struts and it was a lot smoother now it’s rough again now gotta go to the back I think. The bad struts messed up my tires in the front also
Hello I had no lights on even before I replaced them. I just had a really hard ride on the rear. There is a kit to bypass the computer system if I am not mistaken. I did some research and was going to do it but backed out. Here is the kit on Amazon if you want to install it and put regular shocks, Thanks amzn.to/3A9fb4G
@@ExtremDIY Ok mine rides really on the front so I want to replace the front and rear but I looked at a couple of videos some people talked about bypassing the computer when u replace the suspension
@@stephanebk2825 Mine too was riding like a wood wagon. I have to replace the front now also. They last about 65-75k max usually. You will enjoy the ride after
@@stephanebk2825 If you replace with the originals or ones that have the plug I would not bypass the system. That is not the issue its the actual shock that goes bad not the electronics. Your car has an option to make it ride smooth or sport and that is the control option. I mean the idea of the bypass is to buy a strut and shock without those options that are way cheaper but you have to spend the money on the bypass. Its up to you to make that decision if you are keeping the car for a long time and dont want to deal with the air ride in the future well maybe yes. thanks
Question regarding the electrical connector. We just finished replacing my 2016 Yukon rear shocks. When trying to put the electrical connector back on, we spent hours. We could never get it to securely clip in place. We ended up pushing it on as hard as we could and then zip tied it together. I absolutely hate having to do that but we were just stumped. We even tried to put the old shock connector back on to see if maybe the new one was slightly different, but we couldn't even get the old one to plug in properly either. We are obviously doing something incorrectly, but I am wondering if the connector wasn't making a connection, would I get warnings?
Hello I had no issue with my connector but I was first sent the incorrect shock and had to return it to get the correct ones. Are you using the after market ones or the original OEM ones? If you are using the OEM ones it should work fine. The second thing is the safety gray tab on the video is time stamp 10:38 which you have to make sure its pushed back before you plug the connectors. If the safety tab if forward you wont be able to get the connector in all the way which could be your issue. You do have to push it a bit but not too hard. Hope this helps
The ones I purchased were the Dorman 949-705. But, I also was not able to get the old shocks to plug back in either. I had the tab pulled out when we tried to plug it in and then I would push the tab in when we thought it was pushed in all the way. I am not getting any suspension warnings, so I’m thinking it is probably making connection, but that’s just an assumption.
@@bobgrove6581 I guess if you are not getting a check engine light its working but weird its not locking the plug. Also make sure the pins are not bent if you still have it apart.
Hello yes they go bad around 75k miles or so. There are options to delete them and install standard ones. Just do your research on that if you dont want to spend the crazy amount or get generic ones. I posted a few options on the link. thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I used it to change my rear shocks on our 2018 Yukon XL Denali just yesterday morning & it was a great help. I followed it step by step & it only took me about 3 hrs total from gathering tools to cleaning up. Honestly, the hardest part was lifting the 22" tire/wheels to mount them back on. Unfortunately both rear shocks & both front struts have leaked out on our Yukon. I'm replacing them two at the time because of the costs. I did find that Rock Auto has all four for around $400.00 each (will be purchasing the front struts in about a month). However, the front struts change is going to be a bit more challenging as the strut will have to be removed from the coil & the electrical terminal will have to be removed from the old strut & installed on the new strut, which looks VERY tedious & time consuming. Have you made a video for the front strut OEM replacement & if not, will you be doing so?
I did not remove terminal on mine since I used OEM part. I have seen some aftermarket ones throw a check engine light. Hope you enjoy the new ride. Thanks
Thank you for your response. In another video I also found 85 ft lbs for the Rear shocks top and bottom and 37 ft lbs for the Front shocks top and bottom.
Hello I have spent some time searching but no luck with exact torque specs. When I did the video I searched and didnt find either. I did see another video that mentioned 85 ft lbs for the bottom of the rear shock but didnt say anything about the top which I believe is less. Thank you
Yes it is I was driving mine like that for about 9 months or so and once I changed them it made such a difference. They last about 75k miles so I have to change my fronts also which I have there to do. I also did my brakes from factory installed pads to good quality ceramic pads and cut the rotors and wow the difference was awesome. Its a big SUV and brakes are mushy now it stops the way is suppose to.
I seen some complaints about that when using aftermarket shocks giving a suspension code. Make sure the plugs were connected all the way. If you got the OEM ones and still getting the code disconnect the battery for a bit or use a computer to clear the code. Hope this helps
I prefer to torque the bolts on the shocks once the shock is positioned in both brackets and the axle is loaded with the weight of the vehicle, this will unload the bushing which is evident at 8:54.
Thanks for the heads up I need to get this done for my SUV it rides harsh.
Welcome
Thank you my Tahoe is riding very harsh also I thought it was the wheels but sounds like it the shocks. Awesome thank you for your help.
You are very welcome
Super clear video thank you for the installation help.
Thank you
Great Video. I used it to prepare for my replacing my shocks on our 2018 GMC Yukon Denali. It actually was easier than this video I think, it only took 2.5 to 3 hours taking my time. There was no need to take the spare tire out, I had plenty of room. Unfortunately, I think I need to replace the front pair. I used OEM shocks from Rock Auto, but the price difference was negligible from E-Bay and Amazon.
I just did the front video for the struts. th-cam.com/video/cgGMCgP0vZ4/w-d-xo.html I have 106k miles on mine and were leaking oil. They only last about 75k and the car was ridding so bad. Very easy install but I waited too long and messed up my tires. For the rear you can do the shocks but its easier for me for the video to remove the spare tire. Thanks
Great video - lots of clear shots of the work.
Thank you I am glad it helped.
Our Escalade is doing the same thing. Thank you for the great video.
Great video. For the passenger side, you can get to the top boot from the piste if you use a knuckle on your ratchet. Thats what I did as I didn’t want to take anything else off.
Hello thanks for the idea for others to try out. I removed some stuff to make it easier for the video too.
Thank you was going crazy trying to figure this out
OK, your busted....at 8:51 we could all tell you had burritos for lunch.
Fantastic video mine is riding pretty bad I was thinking it was the tires but will take a look at this option. thanks Also loved the idea of using the bolt to line up the top of the shock 👍
Thank you
I replaced the front struts and it was a lot smoother now it’s rough again now gotta go to the back I think. The bad struts messed up my tires in the front also
I have to change my front because they are leaking at 105k miles and the ride is rough in the front. Once I replace the back it was way better.
Thanks for the info, just did mine. Funny thing though, left side bolts were 22mm, right side was 21mm🤔. 2017 Yukon XL
Hello glad it helped. Wow that is weird. Thanks
Probably someone tried to replace them already and lost a bolt lol
You didnt have no Light on (like suspension light) ?
How d you bypass the magneride
Hello I had no lights on even before I replaced them. I just had a really hard ride on the rear. There is a kit to bypass the computer system if I am not mistaken. I did some research and was going to do it but backed out. Here is the kit on Amazon if you want to install it and put regular shocks, Thanks amzn.to/3A9fb4G
@@ExtremDIY Ok mine rides really on the front so I want to replace the front and rear but I looked at a couple of videos some people talked about bypassing the computer when u replace the suspension
@@ExtremDIY I did have no light right now just that my truck rides very hard and I can feel every bump of the road. 98xxx miles
@@stephanebk2825 Mine too was riding like a wood wagon. I have to replace the front now also. They last about 65-75k max usually. You will enjoy the ride after
@@stephanebk2825 If you replace with the originals or ones that have the plug I would not bypass the system. That is not the issue its the actual shock that goes bad not the electronics. Your car has an option to make it ride smooth or sport and that is the control option. I mean the idea of the bypass is to buy a strut and shock without those options that are way cheaper but you have to spend the money on the bypass. Its up to you to make that decision if you are keeping the car for a long time and dont want to deal with the air ride in the future well maybe yes. thanks
Question regarding the electrical connector. We just finished replacing my 2016 Yukon rear shocks. When trying to put the electrical connector back on, we spent hours. We could never get it to securely clip in place. We ended up pushing it on as hard as we could and then zip tied it together. I absolutely hate having to do that but we were just stumped. We even tried to put the old shock connector back on to see if maybe the new one was slightly different, but we couldn't even get the old one to plug in properly either. We are obviously doing something incorrectly, but I am wondering if the connector wasn't making a connection, would I get warnings?
Hello I had no issue with my connector but I was first sent the incorrect shock and had to return it to get the correct ones. Are you using the after market ones or the original OEM ones? If you are using the OEM ones it should work fine. The second thing is the safety gray tab on the video is time stamp 10:38 which you have to make sure its pushed back before you plug the connectors. If the safety tab if forward you wont be able to get the connector in all the way which could be your issue. You do have to push it a bit but not too hard. Hope this helps
The ones I purchased were the Dorman 949-705. But, I also was not able to get the old shocks to plug back in either. I had the tab pulled out when we tried to plug it in and then I would push the tab in when we thought it was pushed in all the way. I am not getting any suspension warnings, so I’m thinking it is probably making connection, but that’s just an assumption.
@@bobgrove6581 I guess if you are not getting a check engine light its working but weird its not locking the plug. Also make sure the pins are not bent if you still have it apart.
So is this a common thing for these shocks to go out/bad so soon my wife has a 2017 xl denali?
Hello yes they go bad around 75k miles or so. There are options to delete them and install standard ones. Just do your research on that if you dont want to spend the crazy amount or get generic ones. I posted a few options on the link. thanks
@@ExtremDIY ok cool, thanks preciate it.
Good video with good tips.
Thank you glad it helped
Thanks so much for this video. I used it to change my rear shocks on our 2018 Yukon XL Denali just yesterday morning & it was a great help. I followed it step by step & it only took me about 3 hrs total from gathering tools to cleaning up. Honestly, the hardest part was lifting the 22" tire/wheels to mount them back on. Unfortunately both rear shocks & both front struts have leaked out on our Yukon. I'm replacing them two at the time because of the costs. I did find that Rock Auto has all four for around $400.00 each (will be purchasing the front struts in about a month). However, the front struts change is going to be a bit more challenging as the strut will have to be removed from the coil & the electrical terminal will have to be removed from the old strut & installed on the new strut, which looks VERY tedious & time consuming. Have you made a video for the front strut OEM replacement & if not, will you be doing so?
Replacing my shocks tomorrow! Did you disconnect the battery before replacing the shocks? I'm not sure why some recommend this step.
I did not remove terminal on mine since I used OEM part. I have seen some aftermarket ones throw a check engine light. Hope you enjoy the new ride. Thanks
Thank you for your response.
In another video I also found 85 ft lbs for the Rear shocks top and bottom and 37 ft lbs for the Front shocks top and bottom.
Great Video. Isn't it recommend to torque the shock bolts? If yes, do you know the torque specs for the shock bolts?
Hello I have spent some time searching but no luck with exact torque specs. When I did the video I searched and didnt find either. I did see another video that mentioned 85 ft lbs for the bottom of the rear shock but didnt say anything about the top which I believe is less. Thank you
Is it a shock absorber issue if the Escalade ESV rides like it’s porpoising down the road ?
Yes it is I was driving mine like that for about 9 months or so and once I changed them it made such a difference. They last about 75k miles so I have to change my fronts also which I have there to do. I also did my brakes from factory installed pads to good quality ceramic pads and cut the rotors and wow the difference was awesome. Its a big SUV and brakes are mushy now it stops the way is suppose to.
Where was the best place to buy them?
Hello I got mine on Amazon here is the link it helps out our channel also hope it helps. thank you amzn.to/3vtfo0x
@@ExtremDIY They are cheaper from Rock Auto, $407 each.
This video was a life saver!! Ty🎉🎉
Very welcome I am glad it helped.
Anyone had a "service suspension" come on after installing these?
I seen some complaints about that when using aftermarket shocks giving a suspension code. Make sure the plugs were connected all the way. If you got the OEM ones and still getting the code disconnect the battery for a bit or use a computer to clear the code. Hope this helps
Hello I appreciate your help. Thanks
You are welcome
Well done, thanks..
Thank you.
I send your video and I went for it.
You are very welcome
I feel your happiness. Buying it to replace now
Hello thank you I enjoy the car much better now. Let me know how it goes.