I have done dozens of oil changes over the years (that is putting it mildly), for myself and for many other people. I also own a 2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature (purchased new in 2019). I have changed the oil, myself, in the CX-5 many times now. I always use ramps. They are really convenient, and make changing the oil so much easier (and safer) than using a jack and jack stands. I actually had a friend that was killed when a jack stand broke, and he was crushed by the car, so be careful folks. I always warm up the vehicle before changing the oil, and also open the oil fill cap, to break the vacuum and make the oil drain quicker and more thoroughly. This really makes the oil drain better, and removes more crud out of the bottom of the oil pan. I use the original (Japanese made) Mazda oil filter (Part#: PY8W-14-302), which includes a new crush-washer in the box, so it is also convenient to change the washer every time. It is debatable whether the washer needs to be changed at every oil change, but Mazda recommends that you do so. The OEM Mazda oil filters, and the correct 67.5 mm fluted oil filter wrench, are available at any Mazda dealership. Just remember that there are 2 OEM Mazda oil filter part numbers for the CX-5's (and most other Mazda Vehicle's) 2.5 liter turbo and non-turbo engines, as the turbo engine oil filter has a backflow check valve built into it, in order to keep the turbocharger from starving for oil and burning up. Mazda recommends using their own Moly based synthetic oil in all of their vehicles (of course), and the other brand approved by Mazda, for all Mazda vehicles, is Castrol Edge full synthetic oil (which I use). A lot of mechanics also recommend filling the new oil filter with oil, before installing it, to prevent the engine from "dry-starting" the first time, after the oil change. However, that is also up for debate. Also, those little plastic rivets that hold the bottom shield on tend to break easily, if not removed correctly. However, you can purchase a box of different sized plastic rivets, and the correct removal tool, at Harbor Freight for about $10. Everyone complains about the plastic shield being in the way. However, the shield is more than just "cosmetic," and it serves 2 purposes. The shield is there to make the vehicle more aerodynamic, by allowing for smoother airflow under the vehicle. The shield also prevents rocks and road trash from kicking up and hitting the bottom of the engine and its components, therefore preventing damage to the engine. I have never "torqued" the oil drain plug bolt on any vehicle, even though it is recommended, and I have never had a leak. I just snug the bolt up with a socket wrench, until it feels tight, and then give it another quarter turn or so (just be careful not to overtighten the bolt). The same goes for the oil filter. Just snug it up hand-tight, and then give the filter another quarter turn with a filter wrench. Also, remember to lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil before installing it. This will keep the rubber gasket from binding on the metal filter housing, as the filter is tightening, preventing the filter from leaking. Also, make sure the vehicle is level when checking the oil, and never overfill the oil, as this is just as bad as running an engine with low or no oil. Overfilling the engine with oil will cause foaming, due to the crankshaft churning the oil. This will cause the oil to fill with air and make it ineffective for lubricating the engine. A visual inspection and test-run, after the oil change, is always a good idea, just to makes sure that there are no leaks, and you didn't forget to reinstall the oil drain plug (oops!). Overall, this is a good video for changing the oil on a Mazda CX-5. However, I just wanted to give some useful pointers to other Mazda CX-5 owners, so that they can keep their great Mazdas running in tip-top shape for many years to come. They are great vehicles!
I just changed my oil and I see you have a part number and my part number is not the same! Is the same size as a club car golf cart filter 😢PE01 - 14 - 302A - MV made in Mexico, on the other side it says Mazda P5518 value product by Mazda, mine also did not come in a box or have the washer I’m going to call the dealer and see if your part number is a genuine Mazda Japanese part! Also I saw a video a while ago where a guy took an old plastic cup, and put it over the old oil filter to remove it and all the oil would go into the cup, I’ve done it five or six times now really works well, I’ve been using mobile 0W 20 ! Added 5 quarts and it showed 1 quart low, so I added a half a quart of Moto craft semi synthetic 5W 20 still showing a half a quart low but I left it at that. Every time I try to do anything you have to watch a video to do some thing on this car! It’s been a nightmare for me, I see Mazda dealer charge the guy In the comments above, $1000 or more to fix his emergency brake and it still didn’t work😢I always pull the drain plug and let it drain for hours,and go do something else! This car scares me to keep it, it reminds me of a Mercedes Benz the worst used car you could ever buy.
@Jon Telliard One of the most popular and reliable sources for purchasing "Genuine Mazda Parts" is Med Center Mazda in Pelham, Alabama. Mazda Parts from Med Center Mazda can be purchased either in-person or online. The oil filter part number I listed in my original post is the genuine (made in Hiroshima, Japan) oil filter for the 2.5 L turbocharged engine. The box has the actual manufacturer's location printed on it, and the box contains an oil filter and a crush washer. The oil filter you purchased is the "made in Mexico" version of the oil filter. I am not sure if that is considered a "genuine" Mazda oil filter or not, but if it works correctly, then it should be fine. Mazdas are actually one of the easier cars to work on, and I have been working on them since the RX-7 was prevalent in the 80's. One of the reasons that Mazdas are easy to work on and find part numbers for is the limited engine models available for all of their vehicles. This helps keep things simple. Good luck with your Mazda, and keep up the good work! 👍
@TheGuitarman Thank you so much for the detail comment. Can you tell if the castrol edge 5w 30 full synthetic is good for mazda 2019 cx5 touring reserve (which i assume turbo)?
I have changed oil in over 100 cars and trucks. I would like to shake the hand of the Mazda engineer that designed this. From the access panel to the vertical oil filter right next to the drain plug. It is beautifully simple and easy.
For real, I traded in a GMC Acadia for the CX-5, I dreaded doing the oil filter on the GMC because it was horizontal and at a 15 degree angle and almost impossible to access. One of my concessions when buying a new SUV was how easily the oil change was and the Mazda looked the simplest. Loving it so far!
@@rrm80916I did an oil change on a friend’s Chevy Traverse. I’m thinking it’s the same setup as your Acadia. What the engineers at GM were thinking with that oil filter location…they obviously don’t have to service their own vehicles. What a PITA!! 🤬 Thank God I have a Honda Civic where everything is right there by the oil pan and accessible.
My only complaint is the cheap portable jack they give to change a flat tire. Your car will roll back, you must read to put emergency brake on and proper jack positioning.
With a filter mounted vertically like yours, it is always a good opportunity for me to pre-fill the filter. It takes less than a second to build oil pressure that way vs about 5 seconds otherwise.
Loosen the oil filter by turning it COUNTER clockwise, not clockwise. Don't forget to check that the old filter gasket came off with the filter, and that the surface left is clean. Last, put some oil (don't really have to fill it) in the oil filter before installation.
Thanks for listing the socket sizes and torque specs. Super helpful :) If you use a small extension in the 17mm socket when you loosen it, you end up with cleaner hands. Opening the oil filler cap (but leaving it resting on top to prevent just getting in) allows the oil to drain faster and gets rid of that drip at the front. Personal preference - the K&N Hp1008 oil filter has a 1" nut on the end that makes getting the oil filter on and off super easy. I use the same tightening method as this video and being able to do the 3/4 turn with a ratchet is both easier to do and to see that turn radius. Both the K&N and Mobil1 filters meet and probably exceed manufacturers recommendation. Stop the mess on the floor - use a metal drip drain pan. They cost about $20 and are much easier to clean afterwards than your garage floor or the side of the road. Plus the less oil stains on the garage floor or road, the easier it is to spot if your car is leaking.
Thanks for posting this what to expect, how to video. It was very helpful. I'm as old as dirt and have done many oil changes on my own cars. I'm about to do my CX-5's first oil change. It does have the turbo engine so I bought a turbo specific oem filter, #1WPY-14-302 (filters are so small - lol) and will add full synthetic 5w-30. Besides oiling the rubber gasket, the vertical design of the filter location makes it easy to pour oil into the filter before installing. Can't hurt. I will also use the new crush washer for the drain plug. I would also recommend ramps and wheel chocks. Leave the jack stands for tire rotation or brake work. Good idea to leave the plastic off when inspecting leaks.
Well done. Thank you. Note that oil filter is REMOVED by screwing COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, as is standard with just about all threaded fittings. I believe your audio recording indicates to remove it CLOCK-WISE, which is NOT correct. I may have misheard you but played it twice. Thank you again.
Great video; it's helped me immensely. Only thing to add: make absolutely certain that the old oil filter doesn't leave its rubber gasket stuck to the oil filter housing. It's unlikely to do so, but it's possible--and if it stays there and the new oil filter gets double-gasketed, it will leak. Catastrophically. That could easily destroy the engine. Also, Rainman Ray has a great argument against filling the oil filter prior to installation.
Two things that I do...first, punch a hole in the filter with an ice pick, old phillips screwdriver, etc, to drain it before removal. Not as messy. Second, install a Fumoto F-106 drain valve. Very slick; makes draining your pan tool-less from then on. Despite what the Fumoto site suggests, the ADP-106 is not needed. There is adequate clearance for the valve. Just my two cents.
I use bare hands and stay clean. I reach under car, only need to jack a few inches on passenger side. 1) I Replaced drain plug with Fumoto valve. Easy to attach tube and drain oil into old Tide jug. No mess. 2) I use a gallon ziplok baggie up around filter, carefully turn, whole filter (with oil) stays inside baggie. 3) I Loosen filter with a three-finger filter wrench that tightens around filter as you ratchet. 4) Mobil 1 has great online rebates. 5) I change oil every 5,000 miles, not taking any chance on sludge buildup or gas dilution. 6) I use 0w20, as directed in owners manual. Factory filter, online. Save receipts and keep a log.
Man, this is really helpful. You definitely don't have hollywood level production, you are just a dad trying to change his oil like me. Thanks for the video! Definitely subscribing and thanks for taking the time to make this!
Be sure to check the oil after the car is off the jacks, so the car is level. Otherwise, you'll think you didn't add enough oil, and then you'll overfill it. You definitely don't want to overfill the oil. I did that mistake today, when I had the front tires sitting on 1 1/2" boards. I had to raise the vehicle again to remove a little oil. Just those boards knocked the oil reading off.
Great video, thank you so much. One thing I want to bring your attention to is that the jack point that you're using seemed to be off just bit. I think the correct sopt is where all the dimples are not where the lump is that you're using. Please check.
Yeah, Had an Acura just before the CX and had those plastic rivet plug thingy's. I broke down and bought the pliers to remove them. They deteriorate over time with heat and the elements so they are easy to break.
The filter gasket is a black ring that’s on the filter and when you screw the filter on, it creates the seal. When removing the filter, you just want to make sure that the black ring stays on the filter and not up against the mating surface on the engine. What happens is you can then screw a new filter on with the old gasket up on the engine and have a double gasket problem which one willcreate a leak.
Two quick things - for the torque wrench or any other non-ratcheting tool (breaker bar, etc), if you remove the socket and turn it 90* you can generally get what you need, as the socket is 6 sided and the square drive is, obviously, 4 sided. Your contact + half turn (ish) is correct for most vehicles, but the easiest way I've found to think about it is that you should be able to remove a filter by hand after 5-10k and it will be harder to remove than it is to tighten, so a bit more than "snug" is good enough. Too tight is more likely to leak.
Nice video. One important thing you that you missed was to replace the oil plug crush washer when doing an oil change. Aluminum and/or fiber crush washers are one-use-only and should never be reused. Copper crush washers, on the other hand, can be annealed by heating them to cherry red with a propane torch and reused several times. I hope this information is useful.👍🏻
It is the factory drain plug in the 2019 model year cx5, 17mm. I think the 2017 and 2018 have a different plug which requires a hex key to remove rather than a regular socket
Many manufactures advise against adding oil to the oil filter before installing it as it is one way you can introduce contaminates to the post filter circuit of the lubrication system.
@@gulfcoastbeemer CYA for manufacturers . If done carefully, with a good brand of oil, no harm ever reported. I've done this for horizontally mounted filters as well.
Car manufacturers generally provide specifications for oil capacity with and without a filter change. No need to add oil to the filter ... just follow the manual's directions for oil quantity based on what you're doing.
If you use an oversize filter, you don't have to mess around with fill, check, add, re-check, etc... the Fram UG7317 fits fine and is a way better filter.
Not really I just get what is available at Walmart, avoiding the bargain/low end ones. Some have expressed preference for one brand over another though.
I can't do this car without jacking it up? Equinox and Rogue I did not have to jack up. I figured this would be the same. Also, I have an small cordless impact with a swivel and a couple of extensions. Do you think this will work here? I hate having to use ratchets to loosen bolts. I use the ratchet to only tighten.
I think some people said they can d9 the cx5 without lifting but the front is quite long and low to ground i find it hard to believe, you can always try! I was able to change my honda pilot without lifting. For the impact, you might have trouble getting it on the drain bolt because its kinda tight also need to try and see!
@@CarsForNoobs, no jack and about 30 minutes it took me. I have a 5 foot piece of cardboard and I lay on that so no creeper. I will say that it was the lowest SUV I have been under so far. I have a cheap and very small impact. I only use it for oil changes and to remove 8-10mm belly pan bolts. I removed the little door and then the oil filter. Then removed the drain bolt with the impact. It did look like it might be tight in your video for the impact, but it worked out easy. I did a 2010 E550 yesterday. 3 belly pans that have to interlock and like 20, 8mm bolts. Car has air suspension so I disconnected the battery and jacked it up. Did not want to jack it up and possibly cause a fault with the system.
Great video. Thank you. OBTW ,Mazda doesn't change the washer/gasket unless it needs to be changed. 30yrs and thousands dollars later of loyal servitude to Mazda service technichians ...... Just sayin.
It's funny how some people state that you should only use the recommended oil by the manufacturer. No, you don't need to do that - the manufacturer typically sponsors a specific brand, in this case Castor Oil. Again, not necessary. Mobil 1 full synthetic is perfectly fine. I use Amzoil OE, as I get a deal on the oil and it's supposed to be better than all the other brands. I change my oil at around 6k-7k, what the manufacturer states (even though you can probably go about 10k miles on full synthetic like most Europeans do). I changed my oil for the 1st time, pretty easy but quite messy. Now I have to find a way to clean up the driveway oil spill splashes. Ugh. Probably use an oil catch pan then next time. Also, I didn't use the torque wrench as I just got it and I don't have the correct size set of sockets - maybe next time. In your case, you could have removed the filter and then torqued the drain plug on though.
I changed the oil in my 2021 CX-5 Carbon Edition today. The 19" wheels gave extra ground clearance, and I placed a 1 1/2" board under each front tire. It gave me about 9" of ground clearance to do the job, and I'm not a skinny young guy (about 185 lbs at 5' 8"... and I'm 64 yrs old). The only mistake I did was checking the oil level while the CX-5 was still sitting on the boards. It made me think I needed more oil, so I added oil, and it was a little too much. I had to drain a little back out.
With no jack or ramps I think it's too tight but a few people claimed they could do it. Some people said they just get a few pieces of wood to drive over with the front tires and that gave enough clearance
There is a crush washer and I didnt change it. There is a debate on how often you should change it. I dont think changing it every time is a bad idea, but since I basically never change it and have never had an issue I dont change it every time. For what its worth I had my honda civic for 11 years, 114k miles did most of the oil changes and never changed the crush washer once.
I got some nevers never tigten oik filter with your hands never take oil plug out first never do oil change when engine is warm figure out these nevers
Why not go to harbor freight and get yourself some ramps. They are like $30. It would take you a lot less time and it is easier than th3 way you are doing it
Makes sense,, The jack and stands are just more versatile for tire and brake stuff, the ramps would take up limited space in the garage and ultimately only need them once or twice a year. I also don't love driving up the ramps by myself the few times I've done it by that might just be me. I have thought about it though
For me my drive way slopes just enough to almost level in the downward side of driveway with ramps. No issues. Easy. Worth the investment and safer as well
I have done dozens of oil changes over the years (that is putting it mildly), for myself and for many other people. I also own a 2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature (purchased new in 2019). I have changed the oil, myself, in the CX-5 many times now. I always use ramps. They are really convenient, and make changing the oil so much easier (and safer) than using a jack and jack stands. I actually had a friend that was killed when a jack stand broke, and he was crushed by the car, so be careful folks. I always warm up the vehicle before changing the oil, and also open the oil fill cap, to break the vacuum and make the oil drain quicker and more thoroughly. This really makes the oil drain better, and removes more crud out of the bottom of the oil pan. I use the original (Japanese made) Mazda oil filter (Part#: PY8W-14-302), which includes a new crush-washer in the box, so it is also convenient to change the washer every time. It is debatable whether the washer needs to be changed at every oil change, but Mazda recommends that you do so. The OEM Mazda oil filters, and the correct 67.5 mm fluted oil filter wrench, are available at any Mazda dealership. Just remember that there are 2 OEM Mazda oil filter part numbers for the CX-5's (and most other Mazda Vehicle's) 2.5 liter turbo and non-turbo engines, as the turbo engine oil filter has a backflow check valve built into it, in order to keep the turbocharger from starving for oil and burning up. Mazda recommends using their own Moly based synthetic oil in all of their vehicles (of course), and the other brand approved by Mazda, for all Mazda vehicles, is Castrol Edge full synthetic oil (which I use). A lot of mechanics also recommend filling the new oil filter with oil, before installing it, to prevent the engine from "dry-starting" the first time, after the oil change. However, that is also up for debate. Also, those little plastic rivets that hold the bottom shield on tend to break easily, if not removed correctly. However, you can purchase a box of different sized plastic rivets, and the correct removal tool, at Harbor Freight for about $10. Everyone complains about the plastic shield being in the way. However, the shield is more than just "cosmetic," and it serves 2 purposes. The shield is there to make the vehicle more aerodynamic, by allowing for smoother airflow under the vehicle. The shield also prevents rocks and road trash from kicking up and hitting the bottom of the engine and its components, therefore preventing damage to the engine. I have never "torqued" the oil drain plug bolt on any vehicle, even though it is recommended, and I have never had a leak. I just snug the bolt up with a socket wrench, until it feels tight, and then give it another quarter turn or so (just be careful not to overtighten the bolt). The same goes for the oil filter. Just snug it up hand-tight, and then give the filter another quarter turn with a filter wrench. Also, remember to lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil before installing it. This will keep the rubber gasket from binding on the metal filter housing, as the filter is tightening, preventing the filter from leaking. Also, make sure the vehicle is level when checking the oil, and never overfill the oil, as this is just as bad as running an engine with low or no oil. Overfilling the engine with oil will cause foaming, due to the crankshaft churning the oil. This will cause the oil to fill with air and make it ineffective for lubricating the engine. A visual inspection and test-run, after the oil change, is always a good idea, just to makes sure that there are no leaks, and you didn't forget to reinstall the oil drain plug (oops!). Overall, this is a good video for changing the oil on a Mazda CX-5. However, I just wanted to give some useful pointers to other Mazda CX-5 owners, so that they can keep their great Mazdas running in tip-top shape for many years to come. They are great vehicles!
I just changed my oil and I see you have a part number and my part number is not the same! Is the same size as a club car golf cart filter 😢PE01 - 14 - 302A - MV made in Mexico, on the other side it says Mazda P5518 value product by Mazda, mine also did not come in a box or have the washer I’m going to call the dealer and see if your part number is a genuine Mazda Japanese part! Also I saw a video a while ago where a guy took an old plastic cup, and put it over the old oil filter to remove it and all the oil would go into the cup, I’ve done it five or six times now really works well, I’ve been using mobile 0W 20 ! Added 5 quarts and it showed 1 quart low, so I added a half a quart of Moto craft semi synthetic 5W 20 still showing a half a quart low but I left it at that. Every time I try to do anything you have to watch a video to do some thing on this car! It’s been a nightmare for me, I see Mazda dealer charge the guy In the comments above, $1000 or more to fix his emergency brake and it still didn’t work😢I always pull the drain plug and let it drain for hours,and go do something else! This car scares me to keep it, it reminds me of a Mercedes Benz the worst used car you could ever buy.
@Jon Telliard One of the most popular and reliable sources for purchasing "Genuine Mazda Parts" is Med Center Mazda in Pelham, Alabama. Mazda Parts from Med Center Mazda can be purchased either in-person or online. The oil filter part number I listed in my original post is the genuine (made in Hiroshima, Japan) oil filter for the 2.5 L turbocharged engine. The box has the actual manufacturer's location printed on it, and the box contains an oil filter and a crush washer. The oil filter you purchased is the "made in Mexico" version of the oil filter. I am not sure if that is considered a "genuine" Mazda oil filter or not, but if it works correctly, then it should be fine. Mazdas are actually one of the easier cars to work on, and I have been working on them since the RX-7 was prevalent in the 80's. One of the reasons that Mazdas are easy to work on and find part numbers for is the limited engine models available for all of their vehicles. This helps keep things simple. Good luck with your Mazda, and keep up the good work! 👍
@@TheGuitarman1968 Thank you for all of that info, very much appreciated.
@@xLatch You are very welcome. I hope the information helps.
@TheGuitarman
Thank you so much for the detail comment. Can you tell if the castrol edge 5w 30 full synthetic is good for mazda 2019 cx5 touring reserve (which i assume turbo)?
I have changed oil in over 100 cars and trucks. I would like to shake the hand of the Mazda engineer that designed this. From the access panel to the vertical oil filter right next to the drain plug. It is beautifully simple and easy.
Thanks for sharing
For real, I traded in a GMC Acadia for the CX-5, I dreaded doing the oil filter on the GMC because it was horizontal and at a 15 degree angle and almost impossible to access. One of my concessions when buying a new SUV was how easily the oil change was and the Mazda looked the simplest. Loving it so far!
@@rrm80916I did an oil change on a friend’s Chevy Traverse. I’m thinking it’s the same setup as your Acadia. What the engineers at GM were thinking with that oil filter location…they obviously don’t have to service their own vehicles. What a PITA!! 🤬 Thank God I have a Honda Civic where everything is right there by the oil pan and accessible.
My only complaint is the cheap portable jack they give to change a flat tire. Your car will roll back, you must read to put emergency brake on and proper jack positioning.
With a filter mounted vertically like yours, it is always a good opportunity for me to pre-fill the filter. It takes less than a second to build oil pressure that way vs about 5 seconds otherwise.
My thought as well.
8:30 use a cup over the old filter, after loosening , to catch the oil, works well.
Thank You, ! Lmfao. Me and my doubled up walmart bags.
Loosen the oil filter by turning it COUNTER clockwise, not clockwise. Don't forget to check that the old filter gasket came off with the filter, and that the surface left is clean. Last, put some oil (don't really have to fill it) in the oil filter before installation.
Lefty Loosey Righty Tighty
thank you for pointing out the front jacking point clearly.😊
I have a 22 cx5 and doing an oil change on these things is super easy. I use ramps and jack stands for a back up.
Thanks for listing the socket sizes and torque specs. Super helpful :)
If you use a small extension in the 17mm socket when you loosen it, you end up with cleaner hands.
Opening the oil filler cap (but leaving it resting on top to prevent just getting in) allows the oil to drain faster and gets rid of that drip at the front.
Personal preference - the K&N Hp1008 oil filter has a 1" nut on the end that makes getting the oil filter on and off super easy. I use the same tightening method as this video and being able to do the 3/4 turn with a ratchet is both easier to do and to see that turn radius. Both the K&N and Mobil1 filters meet and probably exceed manufacturers recommendation.
Stop the mess on the floor - use a metal drip drain pan. They cost about $20 and are much easier to clean afterwards than your garage floor or the side of the road. Plus the less oil stains on the garage floor or road, the easier it is to spot if your car is leaking.
Thanks for posting this what to expect, how to video. It was very helpful. I'm as old as dirt and have done many oil changes on my own cars. I'm about to do my CX-5's first oil change. It does have the turbo engine so I bought a turbo specific oem filter, #1WPY-14-302 (filters are so small - lol) and will add full synthetic 5w-30. Besides oiling the rubber gasket, the vertical design of the filter location makes it easy to pour oil into the filter before installing. Can't hurt. I will also use the new crush washer for the drain plug. I would also recommend ramps and wheel chocks. Leave the jack stands for tire rotation or brake work. Good idea to leave the plastic off when inspecting leaks.
Jacks and jack stands make me nervous. I use solid oak ramps I made 30 years ago.
Well done. Thank you. Note that oil filter is REMOVED by screwing COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, as is standard with just about all threaded fittings. I believe your audio recording indicates to remove it CLOCK-WISE, which is NOT correct. I may have misheard you but played it twice. Thank you again.
Oops yes appears I misspoke, it is counterclockwise!
Lefty loosely ?? Righty tighty??
Video is well done - nice work. Oil change is very well done - nice and clean without any oil mess.
Great video; it's helped me immensely. Only thing to add: make absolutely certain that the old oil filter doesn't leave its rubber gasket stuck to the oil filter housing. It's unlikely to do so, but it's possible--and if it stays there and the new oil filter gets double-gasketed, it will leak. Catastrophically. That could easily destroy the engine.
Also, Rainman Ray has a great argument against filling the oil filter prior to installation.
Two things that I do...first, punch a hole in the filter with an ice pick, old phillips screwdriver, etc, to drain it before removal. Not as messy. Second, install a Fumoto F-106 drain valve. Very slick; makes draining your pan tool-less from then on. Despite what the Fumoto site suggests, the ADP-106 is not needed. There is adequate clearance for the valve. Just my two cents.
Get suggestion for removing the filter
I use bare hands and stay clean. I reach under car, only need to jack a few inches on passenger side. 1) I Replaced drain plug with Fumoto valve. Easy to attach tube and drain oil into old Tide jug. No mess. 2) I use a gallon ziplok baggie up around filter, carefully turn, whole filter (with oil) stays inside baggie. 3) I Loosen filter with a three-finger filter wrench that tightens around filter as you ratchet. 4) Mobil 1 has great online rebates. 5) I change oil every 5,000 miles, not taking any chance on sludge buildup or gas dilution. 6) I use 0w20, as directed in owners manual. Factory filter, online. Save receipts and keep a log.
Good tips
What a great idea using a bag around the filter. That is what I will do tomorrow. Thank you.
Man, this is really helpful. You definitely don't have hollywood level production, you are just a dad trying to change his oil like me. Thanks for the video! Definitely subscribing and thanks for taking the time to make this!
Excellent video - very thorough and concise. Thanks!
Some good comments here. Those plastic covers also prevent road salt from getting everywhere and eating the bolts.
Be sure to check the oil after the car is off the jacks, so the car is level. Otherwise, you'll think you didn't add enough oil, and then you'll overfill it. You definitely don't want to overfill the oil. I did that mistake today, when I had the front tires sitting on 1 1/2" boards. I had to raise the vehicle again to remove a little oil. Just those boards knocked the oil reading off.
Great video, thank you so much. One thing I want to bring your attention to is that the jack point that you're using seemed to be off just bit. I think the correct sopt is where all the dimples are not where the lump is that you're using. Please check.
Yeah, Had an Acura just before the CX and had those plastic rivet plug thingy's. I broke down and bought the pliers to remove them. They deteriorate over time with heat and the elements so they are easy to break.
Thank you very much. I will be doing my oil change tomorrow with a bit more confidence.
Hey, thank you so much! Informative and cautionary !
Also when jacking up, always put your emergency hand brake on. If you dont, your back tires might roll back when jacking up.
Thanks man, I'm about to change mine later today. SUBD Appreciate you bro, props from San Diego, Cali Cheeeh Happy Wkn people!!
Excellent content & presentation! Thank You.
Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated!
Thanks, a very clear and informative video.
Very good explanation. Nice job
where does the filter gasket sit?
The filter gasket is a black ring that’s on the filter and when you screw the filter on, it creates the seal. When removing the filter, you just want to make sure that the black ring stays on the filter and not up against the mating surface on the engine. What happens is you can then screw a new filter on with the old gasket up on the engine and have a double gasket problem which one willcreate a leak.
a very useful review, though am unimpressed by Mazda design for DIY jacking and oil change port... Tighten the oil drain bolt!!
Very informative video, thank you so much.
May I ask what brand floor jack you have?
Extremely helpful. Thank you very much.
good video thanks for making it
Two quick things - for the torque wrench or any other non-ratcheting tool (breaker bar, etc), if you remove the socket and turn it 90* you can generally get what you need, as the socket is 6 sided and the square drive is, obviously, 4 sided. Your contact + half turn (ish) is correct for most vehicles, but the easiest way I've found to think about it is that you should be able to remove a filter by hand after 5-10k and it will be harder to remove than it is to tighten, so a bit more than "snug" is good enough. Too tight is more likely to leak.
Makes sense, thanks for the tips!
bad camera on jack stand positioning, great info on front jack point
Nice video. One important thing you that you missed was to replace the oil plug crush washer when doing an oil change. Aluminum and/or fiber crush washers are one-use-only and should never be reused. Copper crush washers, on the other hand, can be annealed by heating them to cherry red with a propane torch and reused several times. I hope this information is useful.👍🏻
Have u thought changing your drain valve into fumoto drain valve.? Less messy and tool free in the future. That’s my next project on my cx5.
Nice video. Is that an aftermarket oil drain plug? Size?
It is the factory drain plug in the 2019 model year cx5, 17mm. I think the 2017 and 2018 have a different plug which requires a hex key to remove rather than a regular socket
Did you replace the crush washer on the drain plug?
Thanks for the step by step saved me 80bucks alsome video 😅
Could you please list the filter model number...i think you used mobile 1 right?
I always wipe off the metal facing that the oil filter gasket contacts. Don't want any debris on that facing.
What’s the point of the cover?
My Honda has none.
Cosmetic?
It tends to hold oil unless you are really good at cleaning it well
Aerodynamics / protection from road debris
I dont have the cover on EU CX5.
Ive heard it could also prevent fires should the car be driven onto a field with tall grass.
Some recommend adding oil to the filter, at least part way full. This applies to filters that mount vertically.
Many manufactures advise against adding oil to the oil filter before installing it as it is one way you can introduce contaminates to the post filter circuit of the lubrication system.
@@gulfcoastbeemer CYA for manufacturers . If done carefully, with a good brand of oil, no harm ever reported. I've done this for horizontally mounted filters as well.
Car manufacturers generally provide specifications for oil capacity with and without a filter change. No need to add oil to the filter ... just follow the manual's directions for oil quantity based on what you're doing.
Why didn't you clean the base plate to the oil filter? Other then at....pretty good.
If you use an oversize filter, you don't have to mess around with fill, check, add, re-check, etc... the Fram UG7317 fits fine and is a way better filter.
Where does say in the manual for cx5 2024 how much oil the suv holds?
You should ALWAYS use a new washer on the drain plug because the old one will be compressed and can leak
Wrong, not always, infact most of the time it don't need to be changed, only if it looks bad or if the oil filter comes with washer.
😂 that’s not true but ok 👍
I’ve owned about 10 or so cars and 10 or so motorcycles. Always did my own oil never once did I ever change a washer on a drain plug. Never had a leak
I’ve had a washer fail on me once out of 100s oil changes. If the washer looks bad then swap it.
Same here.
What about the crush washer?
Thanks, Nice video! Just curious: it appears you used a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter previously but now are using Mobil 1 filter, any specific reason?
Not really I just get what is available at Walmart, avoiding the bargain/low end ones. Some have expressed preference for one brand over another though.
Thanks, I've been doing too much research on the filter... At this point I'm going to go with either the Fram Ultra or the OEM filter.
Thank you.
I can't do this car without jacking it up? Equinox and Rogue I did not have to jack up. I figured this would be the same. Also, I have an small cordless impact with a swivel and a couple of extensions. Do you think this will work here? I hate having to use ratchets to loosen bolts. I use the ratchet to only tighten.
I think some people said they can d9 the cx5 without lifting but the front is quite long and low to ground i find it hard to believe, you can always try! I was able to change my honda pilot without lifting. For the impact, you might have trouble getting it on the drain bolt because its kinda tight also need to try and see!
@@CarsForNoobs, no jack and about 30 minutes it took me. I have a 5 foot piece of cardboard and I lay on that so no creeper. I will say that it was the lowest SUV I have been under so far. I have a cheap and very small impact. I only use it for oil changes and to remove 8-10mm belly pan bolts. I removed the little door and then the oil filter. Then removed the drain bolt with the impact. It did look like it might be tight in your video for the impact, but it worked out easy. I did a 2010 E550 yesterday. 3 belly pans that have to interlock and like 20, 8mm bolts. Car has air suspension so I disconnected the battery and jacked it up. Did not want to jack it up and possibly cause a fault with the system.
I was able to get it without a jack but it’s very tight. Everything was easy except the oil filter was a huge pain to loosen
Great video.
Thank you. OBTW ,Mazda doesn't change the washer/gasket unless it needs to be changed. 30yrs and thousands dollars later of loyal servitude to Mazda service technichians ...... Just sayin.
It's funny how some people state that you should only use the recommended oil by the manufacturer. No, you don't need to do that - the manufacturer typically sponsors a specific brand, in this case Castor Oil. Again, not necessary. Mobil 1 full synthetic is perfectly fine. I use Amzoil OE, as I get a deal on the oil and it's supposed to be better than all the other brands. I change my oil at around 6k-7k, what the manufacturer states (even though you can probably go about 10k miles on full synthetic like most Europeans do). I changed my oil for the 1st time, pretty easy but quite messy. Now I have to find a way to clean up the driveway oil spill splashes. Ugh. Probably use an oil catch pan then next time. Also, I didn't use the torque wrench as I just got it and I don't have the correct size set of sockets - maybe next time. In your case, you could have removed the filter and then torqued the drain plug on though.
Great video thank you for the clarification.
Do you recommend putting in 5Q or 4.8Q
I've always put 5 and it always goes to just below the full marker on the dipstick
Should we jack a car metal on metal?
Yes but not just anywhere on the cars metal, some places on the unibody are thin and cannot hold the weight of the car
After how many miles is recommended to change the oil?
7500
So even though the Fram one was smaller than the Mobil 1 one you can use them interchangeably?
If they are the right part number should be good!
can u do this w/o lifting the car?
I think it's too tight but I didn't try it myself
I changed the oil in my 2021 CX-5 Carbon Edition today. The 19" wheels gave extra ground clearance, and I placed a 1 1/2" board under each front tire. It gave me about 9" of ground clearance to do the job, and I'm not a skinny young guy (about 185 lbs at 5' 8"... and I'm 64 yrs old). The only mistake I did was checking the oil level while the CX-5 was still sitting on the boards. It made me think I needed more oil, so I added oil, and it was a little too much. I had to drain a little back out.
@@quagmirewarrior4202 bro can I message you regarding your oil change on your car
Is there something other than a socket wrench I can you to get that bolt loose?
Yes, that's what I do. You could also just drive the front passenger tire onto a small piece of 2x10 if you want an extra 1.5"
Oil-filter installation instructions are literally on the new filter box, and usually on the filter itself.
Well done 👍🏼
Thank you 😁
Write what head sizes you used?
Can you do this without a jack ?
With no jack or ramps I think it's too tight but a few people claimed they could do it. Some people said they just get a few pieces of wood to drive over with the front tires and that gave enough clearance
Well done thanks
you should not put jack stands on the pinch weld without some kind of adapter.
You don't change the crush washer (is there one?)
There is a crush washer and I didnt change it. There is a debate on how often you should change it. I dont think changing it every time is a bad idea, but since I basically never change it and have never had an issue I dont change it every time. For what its worth I had my honda civic for 11 years, 114k miles did most of the oil changes and never changed the crush washer once.
It’s the kids screaming in the back ground for me🤣🤣👍🏽
NEVER PUT THE DRAIN PLUG BACK IN UNLESS YOU TIGHTEN IT COMPLETELY. Too easy to forget.
Crush washer?
I personally rarely/never change it but some recommend changing it every oil change - up to you to decide what is best
Than you.
Meant to say Thank you.
liked and subbed.
Thanks!
I don't use jack not ramp. It's a SUV so there is enough clearance already.
Nice job. Thanks for posting this video.
I got some nevers never tigten oik filter with your hands never take oil plug out first never do oil change when engine is warm figure out these nevers
Leaving the oil change bolt untightened is a REALLY bad idea, as if one forgets to tighten it would be a very serious mistake...
Great info on oil change cover, shows the terrible design. Plastic push pins and two bolts, geez, could it be worse?? Much easier on a modern BMW
Thank God, I have a car lift
Your jack point is off, a little to your left where those dimples are is the jack point
That's what I've found out.
Well your clockwise is wrong
depend on which angle you are looking at it.
@@Eric_Lin577 No, those are right handed threads.
The 2018 actually takes the 17mm socket not 8mm hex👍
Do the filter first. Dropping a oil filter in a drain pan full of oil makes a mess.
Is this a joke?
Why not go to harbor freight and get yourself some ramps. They are like $30. It would take you a lot less time and it is easier than th3 way you are doing it
Makes sense,, The jack and stands are just more versatile for tire and brake stuff, the ramps would take up limited space in the garage and ultimately only need them once or twice a year. I also don't love driving up the ramps by myself the few times I've done it by that might just be me. I have thought about it though
For me my drive way slopes just enough to almost level in the downward side of driveway with ramps. No issues. Easy. Worth the investment and safer as well
I made ramps from old 4 by 12 stair treads. They nullify my driveway slope so the bonus is a level car.
If you keep doing 10k oil changes you will turn that engine into an oil burner. That oil was dirty stick with 5k intervals.
The car seems like it's barely off the ground
FYI. Based on Mobile’s website, the oil you used is not the recommended motor oil
Cut your finger nails boi
I really appreciate the explanation and the support points on the car, very good explanation, clear and precise.🫡🫡 Thank you
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