Just found your channel and had to subscribe!!! I’m building my wife’s 86 Silverado and I just so happened to total my 07 Tahoe and of course I bought it back so I have the whole setup I’m planning to swap…I’m definitely tuned in…this will be my 1st LS swap…I will have tons of questions once I get started..lol
Hate to hear your Tahoe was totaled, but now you know the motor was taken care of. I will be glad to help out with anything I can. Thanks for the subscription!
Hey was wondering if I could ask how many miles you have on the build now? Wondering about burn through on the plug wires or plug boots, I notice no plug wire sleeves with the Speed Engineering headers. I've always needed heat sleeves over the plug wire boots when I use headers. Thx for any insight you can offer in advance.
The speedometer isn't hooked up, so I don't know exactly how many miles I have on the build. Guessing I would 1000 to 1500. The plug wires are not touching but are close. I check them regularly, and I have not seen any burn thru on the wires or boots. I've taken nice long trips to car shows and the exhaust has been smoking hot, but so far so good.
So I have a 85. Currently fixing to ls swap mine. With the 5.3 and 4L80E behind it. I’ll probably use the stock harness but what will I have to do to use my gauges? Will I have to change the gas tank or can I use mine and throw a electronic fuel pump?
Start looking for a 91 suburban cluster. They used electronic trans and senders. So you can modify it and use it with electric components. I've seen some write ups on it to make it work. Or your other options are mechanical like mine and scrap the cluster all together, Dakota digital or another retro fit company, or cheapest is an old tablet slapped on the dash with an obd dongle and torque app. For fuel, you can use a non baffled tank, but when you're below half tank, the fuel can slosh around and starve the pump. Holly makes a drop-in unit with a hydro mat ( like a sponge) that will keep fuel in reserve while it's sloshing so it won't starve. I opted for the 87 tank with a baffle, so I didn't have to worry about starving the pump.
been heavily researching ls swapping my 76 k20 4x4. Going to use the SM465 4 speed, the mounting plates, already have a fuel system setup., etc. But I always hit a snag when trying to narrow down what to do with the harness and ecu. What did you do with the harness and ecu? Did you just drop in the entire harness with the computer that came with the donor motor, tuned it and off it went? any thoughts/tips would be appreciated. Thanks man. Great looking and sounding truck you have there.
I took the wire harness from the escalade. Thinned out all the unnecessary stuff like rear O2, egr, etc. I did have to rework the wiring for the 4l80 trans but it was super easy. I have more time than money. The ecu was from eBay, $150 to my door, including the ecu itself. Vats off, power enrichment hits at like 50% throttle, torque management is turned off. It drives and shifts great, and I have no complaints. So if you don't mind getting dirty, running stock tune, and taking your time with the harness you can save a ton VS a terminator. If you're gonna do a cam swap, turbo, etc, then it's kinda worth it for the tuning factor. But a stock motor, stock harness/ecu was a no-brainer for me. Thanks for checking out the channel!
I used an Amazon $90 crossmember that allowed for dual exhaust. And the drive shaft was from the junkyard. It came out of a 98 suburban 4x4 rear drive shaft I believe. Once you get your power train in place, measure it out and junkyards have racks of them. Of course having one cut to fit and balanced is always best, but if you are budget minded like me, the junkyard is a great second option.
Using the billet adapters put the stock truck pan about 1 inch below the crossmember. It is not my daily driver, but if it was I would have went with a different pan or Tejas mounts to raise it up even. If you live in an area with a lot of speed bumps, pot holes, dips in the road, etc I would probably get it flush with crossmember.
No it did not. I watched the channel-ugly truck experience- wire up a dual tank system and they explained it really well. May check out their channel. Good luck with your build!
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Just found your channel and had to subscribe!!! I’m building my wife’s 86 Silverado and I just so happened to total my 07 Tahoe and of course I bought it back so I have the whole setup I’m planning to swap…I’m definitely tuned in…this will be my 1st LS swap…I will have tons of questions once I get started..lol
Hate to hear your Tahoe was totaled, but now you know the motor was taken care of. I will be glad to help out with anything I can. Thanks for the subscription!
sweet truck
Thanks. I'll be posting a lot more videos once it warms up in the spring.
Nice video!
Thanks. Once the weather goes above 40 I plan on doing an in-depth review of the build.
Hey was wondering if I could ask how many miles you have on the build now? Wondering about burn through on the plug wires or plug boots, I notice no plug wire sleeves with the Speed Engineering headers. I've always needed heat sleeves over the plug wire boots when I use headers. Thx for any insight you can offer in advance.
The speedometer isn't hooked up, so I don't know exactly how many miles I have on the build. Guessing I would 1000 to 1500. The plug wires are not touching but are close. I check them regularly, and I have not seen any burn thru on the wires or boots. I've taken nice long trips to car shows and the exhaust has been smoking hot, but so far so good.
So I have a 85. Currently fixing to ls swap mine. With the 5.3 and 4L80E behind it. I’ll probably use the stock harness but what will I have to do to use my gauges?
Will I have to change the gas tank or can I use mine and throw a electronic fuel pump?
Start looking for a 91 suburban cluster. They used electronic trans and senders. So you can modify it and use it with electric components. I've seen some write ups on it to make it work. Or your other options are mechanical like mine and scrap the cluster all together, Dakota digital or another retro fit company, or cheapest is an old tablet slapped on the dash with an obd dongle and torque app. For fuel, you can use a non baffled tank, but when you're below half tank, the fuel can slosh around and starve the pump. Holly makes a drop-in unit with a hydro mat ( like a sponge) that will keep fuel in reserve while it's sloshing so it won't starve. I opted for the 87 tank with a baffle, so I didn't have to worry about starving the pump.
been heavily researching ls swapping my 76 k20 4x4. Going to use the SM465 4 speed, the mounting plates, already have a fuel system setup., etc. But I always hit a snag when trying to narrow down what to do with the harness and ecu. What did you do with the harness and ecu? Did you just drop in the entire harness with the computer that came with the donor motor, tuned it and off it went? any thoughts/tips would be appreciated. Thanks man. Great looking and sounding truck you have there.
I took the wire harness from the escalade. Thinned out all the unnecessary stuff like rear O2, egr, etc. I did have to rework the wiring for the 4l80 trans but it was super easy. I have more time than money. The ecu was from eBay, $150 to my door, including the ecu itself. Vats off, power enrichment hits at like 50% throttle, torque management is turned off. It drives and shifts great, and I have no complaints. So if you don't mind getting dirty, running stock tune, and taking your time with the harness you can save a ton VS a terminator. If you're gonna do a cam swap, turbo, etc, then it's kinda worth it for the tuning factor. But a stock motor, stock harness/ecu was a no-brainer for me. Thanks for checking out the channel!
I been doing my Ls swap in I have question sir drive shaft do you use in what transmission cross hangers do you use thank you
I used an Amazon $90 crossmember that allowed for dual exhaust. And the drive shaft was from the junkyard. It came out of a 98 suburban 4x4 rear drive shaft I believe. Once you get your power train in place, measure it out and junkyards have racks of them. Of course having one cut to fit and balanced is always best, but if you are budget minded like me, the junkyard is a great second option.
@@macsboneyardbuilds do you have the links sir
Adjustable Transmission Crossmember Compatible with 1964-1987 Chevy / GMC C10 C20 2WD Trucks Blazer Suburban a.co/d/1HmfuCT
My truck is lowered 5/7. Did you have clearance issues with the stock truck oil pan?
Using the billet adapters put the stock truck pan about 1 inch below the crossmember. It is not my daily driver, but if it was I would have went with a different pan or Tejas mounts to raise it up even. If you live in an area with a lot of speed bumps, pot holes, dips in the road, etc I would probably get it flush with crossmember.
@@macsboneyardbuilds gotcha. I’m going to go with the Holley 302-1 pan. I’ll look into those mounts. I appreciate the replay brother!
Absolutely
did your truck have dual tanks? if so how did you deal with it?
No it did not. I watched the channel-ugly truck experience- wire up a dual tank system and they explained it really well. May check out their channel. Good luck with your build!
What motor in it 350
@@iamsamce presently has a gen 3 LQ9 6 liter.