BigTreeTech Manta M8P motherboard + CB1 Raspberry PI replacement board upgrade w/ Klipper firmware
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Affiliate link:
BigTreeTech Manta M8P + CB1 motherboard and Raspberry Pi replacement board:
shrsl.com/3tvu9
Flying Bear Reborn 2 3D Printer: Currently on sale for $470, free shipping (as of 3/17/2023)
bit.ly/fb-reborn2
00:00 Intro
03:15 Motherboard preparation
03:53 Linux image file
04:58 Using SSH clinet to config the board
05:51 Connect the new motherboard to your printer
07:17 Turn it on and work with the printer config file in Klipper
10:14 Test prints after upgrade
13:10 Conclusions
Welcome back to Aurora Tech Channel. Today, I will install the BigTreeTech Manta motherboard with the CB1 Raspberry Pi replacement board on a stock Marlin firmware 3D printer and have it run Klipper firmware.
I will install them on the Flyingbear reborn 2, as this is a CoreXY machine with linear rails, and it has a dual Z-axis controlled by 2 stepper drivers and uses 2 optical limit switches to align them automatically. The hardware of this printer is pretty good, but the one thing I don’t like is the MKS Robin nano motherboard and screen. The MKS firmware is always buggy and running Marlin has also limited the maximum printing speed of this printer. Using stock Marlin firmware, I tested it a few weeks ago and it can print up to 150mm/s with 1500 acceleration with pretty good results, so let’s see how fast we can push it after the new motherboard and Klipper are installed.
Affiliate link:
BigTreeTech Manta M8P + CB1 motherboard and Raspberry Pi replacement board:
shrsl.com/3tvu9
Flying Bear Reborn 2 3D Printer: Currently on sale for $470, free shipping (as of 3/17/2023)
bit.ly/fb-reborn2
Other resources:
BigTreeTech CB1 Github:
github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/re...
Voron2 example config file for M8P:
github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-...
My edited printer.cfg file for this M8P+CB1 on Flyingbear Reborn 2:
auroratechchannel.com/downloa...
M4P + CB1 installation example for Voron 0.1:
3dpandme.com/2022/08/14/btt-m...
Flyingbear Reborn 2 Klipper config example:
github.com/blacknet76/FlyingB...
Eryone filament (PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA as low as $10 per roll, min 10 rolls):
auroratechchannel.com/links/e... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This is the absolute best tutorial video. Straight to the point, no fluff! Thank you!! Following
Excellent video, well described and easy to understand. I was planning to update my printer with this board and had so many questions, most of them were answered here.
Cool going through all the steps needed to do the upgrade. Thanks for the great information and effort 📶💪
Great how-to video, very well orated and documented - well done and keep it up!!
Thanks again, you clued me into setting up the Manta M5P with dual Z for my LK5, and this is great practice for when I build a Voron 2.4 or what ever it is when I get to it.
Excellent how-to video for this product and process. It's a nice change from your reviews, which are always very informative, but understanding the nuts-and-bolts aspect of 3D printing is always helpful for me. I would suggest doing one about the various changes you might make in settings for Cura or other slicers and what effect they have on the printing job, e.g. tradeoffs on speed vs. quality, layer height impact on durability or looks, etc.
I was on the fence about upgrading my Makergear M2- now I'm REALLY on the fence- this was a lot of work, thanks for sharing.
Great video, I hope you going to continue with upgrading this printer!👍👍👍👍
Alle the best 👍👍👍👍
Great upgrade to the printer
Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😀
It is so nice to see a project video from you again. I have been missing them.
This is a convection I'm considering for one of my printers as well.
As always, your video is a very clear and detailed step by step guide.
Awesome work team.
Btw, iI wonder if the Voron Afterburner print head would be better fit for this printer?
This channel is going to explode, keep up the grind. As always, very straight forward, informative video.
Nice job , you helped me figure some issues out on mine and I used the same thing as I have had the arts for a bit of time the only other thing I did was also changed it to Canbus with an EBB42 as I didn't like the large extruder cable. I did get the m8P to fit where the old one was with strong Velcro. Thanks for the video !! :)
Yeah... I'l be buying this to replace the dead motherboard in my ender 3 v2. Great review!!
I'm impressed. Great Information density. Very on point and interesting
Step by step instructions anyone can follow.
So many videos I have watched just did a timelapse of the edits done to make things work, result, total failure on my part to follow the instructions.
Why did this happen? They Ass-u-me that who ever is watching is already a full fledge expert.
You focus on clear an precise instructions.
You have my admiration for your teams awesome work!
Super vidéo merci j'ai testé la mp4 avec cb1 c'est magnifique
Thank you the video was really helpful
You guys are the best! It would be really interesting to get your guide video of this printer or Two Trees SP-5 to make an optimized fast printing machine with reasonably priced upgrades.
superb video - thanks for the hard work.
Fantastic job!
Very cool video 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Thanks for the video, look forward to seeing a better cooling solution on this printer. Any plans to add ABL to the FB R2?
Seeing your build and review sold me on this printer and the Tinker part of me already ordered the same upgrades. Do you have any follow up videos?
Super cool to see the whole process. That said, I wouldnt have the confidence to pull this off without personal hand holding. The speed makes it worth the effort tho. Good stuff
You and your team are amazing. I am floored with the capability to hack successfully such a complex conversion. I hardly understood all of it and I an happy when my 10S Pro V1 sticks the first layer. But I could never attempt this. You guys take care and Thank You for sharing. Would we ever want to consider this upgrade for the 10S Pro. I liked the larger screen and heard the Klipper was faster from your Sonic video. Thanks Again such a dear. Dennis
legend ....as always .😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍🥰🥰
Your videos are awesome, may I ask do you need a pie adaptor to install the CB1 operating system?
Great video. Wonder how the setup for the accelerometer would go with this board? Looks like there something similar to a 40 pin header on the Manta, so I would assume that it would work the same as with the PI. Also would be curious how canbus setup would work with this board. Is it USB only? or is it compatible with a waveshare board? From what I see there are 2 USB ports, but their documentation says 3, where is the 3rd?
love it funny thing is i wanted tog et this printer for this exact reason
Great, easy to follow video. Copying pid and input shaper values from a file online is however not a great idea. You should run your own pid and IS tune.
Great video again! I have similar setup and I cant get 24v on Bed-out connector. Is there some jumper somewhere or do you have route 24v power to bed power connection? I think that I will take that relay control signal somewhere else.
I brought a Manta M8P, its in the printer but ive not done the computer side of things, This video will help cause i havent got a clue. lol
Thank you for the video. I have a BTT Pi TFT50 V2.0 and was wondering if the install for the screen is the same?
See...that makes sense ...a budget coreyx printer with this upgrade for basically the same price then the dud you tested before .....nice video on this project!🤘
Thank you .
As always a fantastic video! CPAP blower, Hextrudort and Goliath combo when it comes out and you'll be pushing insane speed with good cooling 😀
Nice BIG 3D printer
Flying Bear Reborn 2 seen your other video. Thought it had two heads IDEX?
I think if I had the cash I would buy one, very small budget this end
Hi, thanks for the video, did you was able to use an input shaper sensor in the board such the adxl345 or another one ? if yes how did you manage to do that in this board? my board doesn't boot with the sensor in the sp1.
Waiting for your review of Sovol SV06
I have converted my Anycubic Pro to Klipper using the PAD 7 and the stock mainboard. Thanks to your video, it was fairly easy. Would using the PAD 7 and a different mainboard, like the SKR 3 or Octopus, have made this easier?
Привет. Я тоже перевел Реборн 2 на клиппер. Это позволило печатать с большой скоростью. От 150 мм/ мин. Отличное видео! Спасибо!
I was thinking about fitting a n MP8 on my Svol sv04, could be fun
Is there a way to add an additional stepper driver to an existing board? If not which will be your budget pic for a board that supports 5 stepper drivers?
Você poderia mostrar como fez as ligações dos cabos, ssr e outros ?
I am also trying to use an M8P on my Reborn 2 but I am yet again reminded that electronics is my weak spot.
I bought a display too and only after the fact noticed that this display with a ribbon cable only seems to be working with an actual Raspberry Pi.
So now I got a Raspberry Pi but that seems to be unable to boot off the SD card because it has MMC storage.
So now I need to find a 24 V power supply to test this although I am led to believe I might be able to use a 12V one too but I cannot verify.
I so wish that there were better resources online as in actual people willing to respond to questions. It used to be like that with forums, but these days you can either ask under videos like this in the hopes that somebody cares or go on Reddit and be ignored for the most part or if someone answers, they don't read the question or just tell you to do it their way because that's better anyway.
O tempora, o mores.
I seem to be entering the "get off my lawn" age...
What do you do with all the printers you review?
I noticed that your microsteps were set at 32 and not 16, how did you set this on the board?
I can with the m8p blanket resume a print if the power goes out
Wondering any English group on the Reborn 2? Can't find much info
Hi, i didn't see you programming the manta board firmware. isn't it required?
This is an Amazing video, I am doing the same to The Flying Bear Reborn 2 at my job here at The Dinosaur Company, Im running into an ADC out of range, I may have to replace the heater sensor? did you run into the same issue? Thanks so much 😃
I got it, Had the HB and TH wires swapped, fixed it in printer.cfg
Great video, I too have had issues with the stock board and firmware. I'm think this the the best solution for the MKS issues.
I'm saw an earlier post with a question, likewise I don't wish to be rude. If anyone could provide insight it would be appreciated....
The MKS board came with two types of stepper drivers TMC2225s for four axis motors, and one 2209 for the extruder. Did you reuse the stepper drivers in this installation or is there an advantage to using the two types?
I didn't reuse any of the drivers, I want to use that MKS board on other machine, but I should just connect a classic LCD screen and recompile Marlin firmware instead of using their buggy screen firmware.
@@AuroraTech Excellent thoughts, thanks again!
Part cooling on Reborn 2 is already bad at stock firmware. Not sure what they thougth when they designed it.
can you do tutorial how to connect m8p with fly sht 36 pro with can bus
I just bought one of these controllers for my crappy TRONXY corexy...
were there any wifi issues with the CB1 ?
Any update on the cooling issue?
Hi maybe you will be able to help me. I am trying to order m8 with cb1. But on biqu it dosent mention if the board is v1 or v1.1(with canbus) and is CB1 v2.2 ?
Would you be able to upload your printer.cfg I am doing this same build and it would be extremely helpful to save me some time
I am wanting to design prototype parts quickly I have a basic ender 3 now with a few upgrades. It is painfully slow. Was wondering if it would be best to buy a core xy printer and installer klipper or just by the p1p... budget is 800$
if privacy isn't that big of a deal, then get the Bamboo lab.
did the heatsink fan die?
Hello, thank you so much for your video, it has been really helpful for me, I also have bought a Reborn v2 and followed your tutorial to install Klipper.
Almost everything is working fine, except for the hot-bed which doesn't heat :c
My printer.cfg file:
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PB7 # "BED-OUT negative terminal"
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
#sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2
sensor_pin: PA0 # THB pin
#max_power: 0.6 # Adjust Max Power so your heater doesn't warp your bed
control: pid
pid_Kp: 325.10
pid_Ki: 63.35
pid_Kd: 417.10
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 120
Edit: I managed to solve this issue by connecting the BED_power terminals to the PSU_power terminals (24V), so that the PB7 PIN could trigger the relay to heat the 220V AC bed
Hey. runnning in the same issue.
did you run both wires (+ and - from PSU) to BED_POWER?
@@hashbringer975 Yup, I've connected both
BEDpower+ with PSU+
BEDpower- with PSU-
Will you be reviewing the new P1P as well?
Yes, having it for a while and already using it. Works really well just like the X1 without the enclosure, but no time to review it yet, may post the video in Jan or Feb.
I'm planning on doing this exact upgrade for my Reborn 2; is there any way you can share the STL you used for the screen holder?
Wondering if you can share any English user groups on the reborn2? Just kind of hard to find info in English
@@quarkpix I'm trying to sharpen my Russian and Chinese, too...
Please do this for the flying bear ghost 6!!! There's nothing about that printer on klipper in English only Russian. Please Please 🙏
I have an original CR-10 that prints very well. I will be doing some mods to it, (micro swiss all metal hot end, belted Z, fang cooling duct). I would like to get a second printer, and like you, I think the bed slinger design is flawed and would prefer a box frame, and core XY. My question to you is, what core XY printer would you recommend? The flying bear reborn looks very good mechanically. But I think this upgrade you have done makes it much better. So at a price of $560 plus the cost of this upgrade, would you consider this a top value for the money? I will be printing engineering materials, and materials with carbon fiber, my parts are mechanical in nature. Would I be better off saving for the Bamboo labs X1? The Bamboo P1P seems like a good value, but I don't believe that can do the carbon filaments. The bamboo X1 probably can print quicker, but I am not as concerned with all out print speed (I still want faster printing that typical bed slinger). The flying bear also seems like it is more upgradable and modifiable. You have also done reviews on other core XY printers. What would you recommend for $500 to $700 for a core XY printer capable of high temperature materials like nylon and PC, and carbon fiber filaments?
It's too many works to do with this flyingbear reborn 2 upgrade. If I need a good Corexy, I would just go for the BambuLab X1 carbon or even the P1P would be a much better option. For the P1P, you just need to change to a hardened steel nozzle to print PA-CF which is available for around $15.
@@AuroraTech Reborn 2 is $375 right now. $390 with a flexible build plate and bed leveling probe. You can do these upgrades and still be under the bambu lab stuff.
I'm about to install this board and everything I've read says to pull the VUSB jumper before powering the board with 24V from the power supply or you'll fry the USB controller. Did you need to pull it? I ask because obviously you're using the USB for the screen.
The USB-C used to power the board is connected to a 5V 3A adapter.
I installed this on my twotrees sp5 and I am unable to heat the bed. The temp reads correct but it never heats up. Checking with multimeter there is never power going to the bed out side of the connectors. Should there be?
I had same problem. I programmed different output to heat bed. I choose next nozzle heater output and programmed that to control that solid state relay. That works great and bed is now heating.
tft35spi?
every time I start thinking about doing something with my printer, this channel either already has a video for it or one comes out in the next day or two. It's kinda creepy. Awesome, but creepy, lol.
bonsoir peux tu m'aider je veux installer une ip fixe pour la cb1 comment faire merci jm
so easy grandma can do it.
HDMI Not Support????
Aurora the wise ❤.
Will it be rude of me to ask a specific question about Klipper?
I’ll ask and please free to ignore if you are too busy - I will not consider it as being rude.
Here it is:
When using klipper, in order to achieve fast print speed, do I simply slice the model with higher printing speeds?
Or does klipper “do some magic” with my gcode?
No, it doesn't do any "Magic".. you need to setup your speeds in your slicer. However, the rest of your printer needs to be able to sustain high speed printing. Especially the cooling fans and ducts. I can tell you that a stock Ender 3, is not a good candidate for high speed printing.
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987
Thanks. And yet, I’m supposed to get “some” improvement, no?
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 With the Rails ,extra's,and the frame from 2 of them one could be made that would .Belts would be a issue .I dislike belts though .A drill press for the new holes.A few drill-out templates fo the types of frame printed before tearing apart the Enders. Sorry ,stream of a new plan . Thank you . Made me Re-Org. Sounds like a good Winter Plan...It's -16c here .just warmed up from -25 ...But my Truck will be frozen..Sorry ,drifted , Thanks for the new plan direction .
@@Jbobonline a stock ender should give about 20-30mm/s extra with no loss in quality. I got a 20mm/s upgrade just by replacing my stock motherboard with a new BTT motherboard
Actually main advantage is "input shaping", as it compensates for ringing because of resonances. Depending of the printer you can get twice to four times speed and acceleration - if the printhead can keep up with flow and part cooling.
So to say it simple: You can use max speed and acceleration your printer supports without klipper anyways - but with massivly improved prints as ringing is mostly gone. Faster with same quality.
For higher flowrate the most simple upgrade is a bondtech cht nozzle. On stock printer it wouldn't help much on common 0.4 or 0.6 mm size, as you can not make use of higher flow due to ringing. With klipper a CHT is very useful.
Still, going higher speeds you might to need better cooling if printing PLA.
Hi can you help me? I Bay this
Can I adopt Aurora?
First 😅✌️
CB1 wifi BUG BUG BUG
I don't think it is a good idea to force the printer to print with so high speed 😁🤪
Remember how the 3D printers work !!
They put layers of liquid plastic on top of each other, it's not like drawing lines with a pencil, these layers have to fit exactly on top of each other and connect very well to form a strong structure. 3D printing is not about speed, but about precision and durability of the printed material. I use the original Ender 5 Plus printer and the prints are beautiful, very smooth as velvet, and the durability is the best, comparable to layer welding. Maybe for mass production in a factory Klipper is good, but for work at home, family hobby, and project prints ... Marlin is perfect and gives beautiful results .... best regards.
Wow.. you are so wrong.. on many levels. The high end printers all use Klipper now. She has had more 3D Printers than you ever will, and this girl has forgotten more about 3D Printers than you will ever know.
Actually resonance compensation and preassure advance are the key components for more precision. So with klipper you can get higher speed on same quality or better quality on same speed. Actually you might have missed the part she simply copied resonance compensation of a pre-made profile for this printer; so resonance compensation is on. Not optimal way to do so (you should always measure the individual mashine) but already great results.
There are of course limits in speed and acceleration the printer is capable of, and limits to flow and part cooling. But mostly you do not reach theese limits without klipper (or another input shaper).
She also showed limits of the hotend due to flow and quick fix by incresing temperature. As the printed object did not realy part cooling (no overhangs) this works. But as a better solution, a Bondtech CHT-Nozzle would be a nicer solution - and also incresing cooling capacity.
Bahh, just buy a Bambu Lab and print on without all this stone age BS.
Any update on the part cooling issue?
I printed on thingiverse thing:5844058 air ducts and it help a lot. I can easily print benchy 250mm/s on 5k acceleration. These are way better than orginals.
@@jjkproduction May I ask for the Speed Profile please?
I think that I used same profile than this Aurora Tech video on that monitor support print but I use that 5k accelaration.