Don't know if you are monitoring this channel still, but I'm glad these videos are here, they are an invaluable resource. I had horrible accuracy with my No1 MkIII*, was able to correct 5 things based on the advice here. Shimmed the fore-end tighter o the socket, tightened the sight protector ears, shimmed the barrel band to move handguard pressure off the rear sight, put a washer on the nosecap screw as it was loose when tightened, and shimmed the barrel tight to the nosecap as it had side pressure. I won't be able to shoot it for a coupe days, but I have every confidence it will shoot better than the 6 inch groups I was getting. Cheers.
Of the three Enfields I have owned over the past 64 years the first one I bought was a jewel. 100 yard targets were no problem to shoot bulls eyes every shot. The parkerized version I had was nice to look at, but it had a kick like a mule. The third one was okay, but if you tried real hard you could hit the broad side of a barn with it. I truly wish I had seen these vids 64 years ago or had someone that could coach me.
very good informations. but careful! that part about grinding of the high contactpoints on the bolt: i would suggest to insert a thight fittet case, that was fired out of this chamber to diagnose the contactpoints of the bolt with the receiver. otherwise its possible that any other force (canted closing with your hand, the pull of the strikerspring,....) could change the highspots and you would do a big mistake. aditionaly mark the boltface which contacts the case base to see if its square there.
When it comes to Lee Enfield, I heard accounts of how there could be a large disparity in accuracy from one gun to the next. I'm not saying that they didn't meet the factory requirements during testing. I'm saying that some were just that much better as far as accuracy on their own. There are references to the best of these rifles being hand selected for sniper rifles, or being hand selected for specific regiment duties based on accuracy. Any rifle at the factory that couldn't meet the minimum accuracy and function test was put aside and line retuned or rebuilt to attain the minimum standards. And unfortunately, some not so good rifles did escape in to service. But these are great tips on things to look for that might be from wear, or just never right from the factory, or an armory refurbishment that was not 100 percent. I hear stories of people making all kinds of bizarre discoveries when doing a full tear down and checking specs. Anybody have any firsthand stories on what they found?? Thanks for sharing the vid!
One of my no4 mk1* had oily stained canvas pieces underneath the top Hand-guards when I did a full tear down for cleaning, which I don’t think had been done in my lifetime. I took them out not realizing the purpose and shot it, couldn’t hit anything. So I carefully put them back where they were because underneath the wood they had stained into place over the years like smoke does to a picture frame on a wall and the rifle has been 1” MOA ever since.
thanx so much for this I just got my first smle 1918 bsa no1mk3* and Im going to be restoring it to arsenal from a sporter. I realy needed this info so I can make a good hunting rifle
You said that the No. 1 Mk III should be free floated from the receiver to the band, but in a different video, you said it should be floating from the band to the nosecap. Which is it? Love your videos! Very informative and helpful!
What happens if i bed the barrel all the way on a sporter style stock. Since it needs up pressure it will be fully bedded in the barrel channel. Or just bed the knox form and then a little bit forward of knoxform then free float the rest. I have a sporterized 303 no4mk1. I do need bedding as it not touching the knox form.
hi there i have an orignal short lee enfield i found at Thiepval on the Somme...theres no wood on it now,,,,but when i found it it was half cocked with three rounds in the magazine ...i can strip it to the fireing pin now iv cleaned it...it has numbers on it could you tell me anything about it from the numbers....thanks
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Don't know if you are monitoring this channel still, but I'm glad these videos are here, they are an invaluable resource. I had horrible accuracy with my No1 MkIII*, was able to correct 5 things based on the advice here. Shimmed the fore-end tighter o the socket, tightened the sight protector ears, shimmed the barrel band to move handguard pressure off the rear sight, put a washer on the nosecap screw as it was loose when tightened, and shimmed the barrel tight to the nosecap as it had side pressure. I won't be able to shoot it for a coupe days, but I have every confidence it will shoot better than the 6 inch groups I was getting. Cheers.
Of the three Enfields I have owned over the past 64 years the first one I bought was a jewel. 100 yard targets were no problem to shoot bulls eyes every shot. The parkerized version I had was nice to look at, but it had a kick like a mule. The third one was okay, but if you tried real hard you could hit the broad side of a barn with it. I truly wish I had seen these vids 64 years ago or had someone that could coach me.
very good informations. but careful! that part about grinding of the high contactpoints on the bolt: i would suggest to insert a thight fittet case, that was fired out of this chamber to diagnose the contactpoints of the bolt with the receiver. otherwise its possible that any other force (canted closing with your hand, the pull of the strikerspring,....) could change the highspots and you would do a big mistake. aditionaly mark the boltface which contacts the case base to see if its square there.
When it comes to Lee Enfield, I heard accounts of how there could be a large disparity in accuracy from one gun to the next. I'm not saying that they didn't meet the factory requirements during testing. I'm saying that some were just that much better as far as accuracy on their own. There are references to the best of these rifles being hand selected for sniper rifles, or being hand selected for specific regiment duties based on accuracy. Any rifle at the factory that couldn't meet the minimum accuracy and function test was put aside and line retuned or rebuilt to attain the minimum standards. And unfortunately, some not so good rifles did escape in to service. But these are great tips on things to look for that might be from wear, or just never right from the factory, or an armory refurbishment that was not 100 percent. I hear stories of people making all kinds of bizarre discoveries when doing a full tear down and checking specs. Anybody have any firsthand stories on what they found?? Thanks for sharing the vid!
One of my no4 mk1* had oily stained canvas pieces underneath the top Hand-guards when I did a full tear down for cleaning, which I don’t think had been done in my lifetime. I took them out not realizing the purpose and shot it, couldn’t hit anything. So I carefully put them back where they were because underneath the wood they had stained into place over the years like smoke does to a picture frame on a wall and the rifle has been 1” MOA ever since.
Fabulous video with loads of nuggets. Thank you..!!!
thanx so much for this I just got my first smle 1918 bsa no1mk3* and Im going to be restoring it to arsenal from a sporter. I realy needed this info so I can make a good hunting rifle
i looked at a 1917 bsa yesterday. vnice he wanted $175...NZdollars. that my friends is a steal
thanks a bunch mate, you've really helped my enfield!
Nice video full of information, i would like to know if you have a video for cleaning and removing rust on the Enfield rifle
your vids are fantastic! thank you
Superb.
good job well done i am putting together after 30 years i need some hard ware its 1951 RFI
I cheated. Bought an unissued and likely unfired Irish Contract No.4 Mk2. And it does indeed shoot great!
Beer Can Accuracy FTW!
You said that the No. 1 Mk III should be free floated from the receiver to the band, but in a different video, you said it should be floating from the band to the nosecap. Which is it?
Love your videos! Very informative and helpful!
Reciever to band is no1mk3 receiver to nosecap is no4mk1
What happens if i bed the barrel all the way on a sporter style stock. Since it needs up pressure it will be fully bedded in the barrel channel. Or just bed the knox form and then a little bit forward of knoxform then free float the rest. I have a sporterized 303 no4mk1. I do need bedding as it not touching the knox form.
Hey bud, where abouts it NZ are ya? Do you know the boys from Rusty Dog in Pukekohe?
hi there i have an orignal short lee enfield i found at Thiepval on the Somme...theres no wood on it now,,,,but when i found it it was half cocked with three rounds in the magazine ...i can strip it to the fireing pin now iv cleaned it...it has numbers on it could you tell me anything about it from the numbers....thanks
well that told me !! SMLE in bits and tools out ...........
nice video, but u have a dog chasing a car in your living room!
The audio s really bad.