RC - glad to see your content. The first rifle I recall spending my wages on, was a custom, single shot, 7.62 Nato - 4800psi. The barrel was a standard contour. Over that barrel and a 1.25 Inch - OD steel sleeve. At the breech - there was a little lead weep, like car body done in the 40's and 50's. The bottom of the action, was brazed 2 nuts, one just at the back of the magazine and the other at the front of the magazine. The front lug of the action was there, so you had 3 bolts holding the stock to the action, in 6 inches from the face of the rear stock plate. It was fibre glass bedded for just a couple of inches at the front stock mount. It was floated - all the way to a similar style of your enforcer. At the 12 o clock position at the muzzle was a single weld, like an arc weld. The target sight was a PH - 5A. Front was a rugged ears a real thin Brass bead. It weighed in at 12 maybe 14 #. The recoil of this was a gentle push. At the time IVI ammo would turn up and I used some of it. It was scary how well this worked. 3 IVI rounds in under an inch at 100yds. At 400 yd - 5 shots were covered by one playing deck. Out of the few rifles I sold -over time - that is the one I would want back. Cheers to you and the rest of the crew. Cheers
The rifles can be had but the RSAF or Sterling 7.62 magazines are super duper rare. If you see one in operable condition buy it and ask questions later.
I did something a little different on my No 4 Mk1*FTR Long Branch rifle. I inletted a small amount of wood from the the inside of the fore-stock around the receiver and trigger guard/ magazine well subframe in order to lay up a 2 layers of kevlar and kevlar fiber reinforced resin from the rear stock screw to in front of the chamber.
Thank you for this excellent video RC as no one else has taken the time to disassemble 4 rifles at once to be able to compare their bedding methods. Everyone knows how important bedding is to Lee Enfield accuracy! I've been lucky in being able to acquire good to excellent accuracy out of my numerous Lee Enfield rifles by manipulating handloads, not the rifles' bedding. Good is 2 MOA excellent is 1 MOA but I know the time will come when I need to ensure a rifle has proper bedding.
Recently bought a #4 that had been made in 43 an was rebarreled with an extremely tight bore .307 vs .311... Wood has shrunk (Colorado) so I bedded it... an free floated the bbl.. no luck, too much barrel whip... so I bedded it in the center, I got 2 moa... so I bedded the center and front end temporarily with wood compound and it shot .5 MOA UNTIL I got down to TX the compound came undone... so I used epoxy and I'm in the process of fine tuning the channel... hopefully I can get it back on track... once the temperature drops a bit.
Hi RC, here is a little tip to help with the nut on the cross bolt on the rifle. Grind out the center of a driver bit that fits the slot with a Dremel tool to make clearance for the bolt. You can buy them at TSC or Princess Auto pretty cheap, get a couple just incase.
nice video, currently in the process of un sporterizing my No4 Mk1, I managed to find an original length barrel for it. I have all the parts now I'm just waiting for the final one which is the stock. Ordered it a couple weeks ago so hopefully soon I'll have mine finished.
Question about the play at the muzzle end of things. I have a 1944 Savage No4 and I can nudge the barrel horizontally to the left with slight pressure, but the barrel is bearing against the forestock at the right. I cannot move the barrel from center to the right at all. What's the method to remedy this? I haven't removed the wood to see what's actually going on yet. I'm assuming some light sanding on the inside right of the forestock followed by some raw linseed oil to seal. Not touching the vertical bearing surface. How much gap do I need? I read online about .01" but this doesn't seem like very much at all. Thank you in advance for your reply!!!
Hi Nicholas. I struggle with these requests because I can’t personally examine the rifle. From your description it is possible that the fore-stock to your rifle is not original to the barreled action. 1. It could be that your receiver is not bearing dead centre in the stock and that the draws are seating slightly to one side 2. It could be that your forestock is slightly bent / warped to one side 3. It could be that the stock is making firm contact on one side at the receiver ring and pushing the stock out of alignment. You should be able to put a feeler guage between the receiver ring and forestock with very little or no contact. Remove the stock and look for compression contact on one side. Use a file to gently lower the high spot (if any) Again - I’m just guessing here. Goodluck and Maple Leaf Up
I recently picked up a sporterized 2a1 and am attempting to restore it as close to original as I can using the furniture set from a DP no.1 mk3. The DP stock is well worn and was an awkward fit. And since it's not the original furniture anyways, I'd like to strip the paint off of the wood,refinish it with linseed oil, and bed the action into the stock. Being a no.1 pattern and being chambered in 7.62 I was wondering if these bedding principals apply to 2a1 rifles and if not can you explain the differences?
Interesting that you mention raw linseed oil, I have been trying to find it here in the US, no luck, even at lumber yards. Raw linseed oil used to be used on old wooden rain gutters on houses, also on cedar shake roofs. It soaks into wood better than boiled linseed oil, doesn't polymerize as quickly. I've Googled it, the returns are always for boiled oil.
@@Riflechair Thanks! I was looking for it by the quart/liter, something to stabilize wood that is starting to rot. It would be an online thing, my area is too rural for those high toned establishments.
I have a p14 and m17 and both have grey epoxy , full action bedded. Im thinking of freefloating the barrels as they both are bedded an inch past the reciever. Free float for better harmonics i hope. Have you had one and did you ever bed one?
I have a norinco jw 105 and the recoil lug has the the screw hole at the bottom so itl l be hard to do a recoil lug bedding and the rifle is free floated already. Maybe i can add a middle block of epoxy like a 3rd node for the harmon ics. Or just 2 inches in front of the recoil lu g so the rifle doesnt move side to side anymore.
@@Riflechair I know it’s Enfield minutia and I remember reading somewhere about this arrangement. Anyway, a quick look through Skennerton’s The Lee Enfield A Century of Lee-Medford . . . book shows the screw heads on many instances. It you have the book, look on pages 190, 193, 407, 419, 495 and 526. In the whole world of things it doesn’t matter a hoot. However, your rear trigger guard screw and front sight protector screw have the head on the left hand side of the rifle. I believe it’s the same for most, if not all, of the earlier Enfields too. Thanks for making these videos - I really enjoy them.
ROF Fazakerley was a Royal Ordnance Factory plant in Fazakerley, Liverpool, which manufactured small arms such as the Sten and Sterling submachine guns and Lee-Enfield rifle during and after World War II.
Depends on year of manufacturing, maker, and if it's been arsenal reworked later. Some were blued, some were a black paint finish called suncorite. Some started out as blued and got painted later.
Just pressing the bottom of the barrel where it comes out the wood is usually enough.. it should lift against the top wood and return to centre bottom when release. If your are seriously anal, then you could use a spring balance and a loop of string to check the pull as the barrel is pulled off the bottom wood...!
Someone has done a real job on that 4T! Not only have they used entirely the wrong wood finish, the bedding is completely shot.. there should be intimate contact at the front of the receiver and the knox form.. looks like someone has rasped out the wood. there should also be contact either halfway down the fore end or at the end. Under no circumstances should the barrel be touching the upper guard. All the 7.62 versions of the No4 such as the L39, L42 and enforcer used a shortened stock and free float. Lateral adjustment of the barrel is made by working on the "draws" which are at the angled faces on the back end of the stock.. Finally a small point with your description of the Enforcer having been owned by the "Scottish National Police". There is no such beast (although nationalist elements within Scotland might wish for one).. the current Scottish Police is known as "Police Scotland" and before that there were several Constabularies that served Scotland. I would imagine the Enforcer would have belonged to one of these Forces.
Thank you good sir there aint enough videos out there for this subject. Shout out from Australia
Go to Riflechair.com and contact me
RC - glad to see your content. The first rifle I recall spending my wages on, was a custom, single shot, 7.62 Nato - 4800psi. The barrel was a standard contour. Over that barrel and a 1.25 Inch - OD steel sleeve. At the breech - there was a little lead weep, like car body done in the 40's and 50's. The bottom of the action, was brazed 2 nuts, one just at the back of the magazine and the other at the front of the magazine. The front lug of the action was there, so you had 3 bolts holding the stock to the action, in 6 inches from the face of the rear stock plate. It was fibre glass bedded for just a couple of inches at the front stock mount. It was floated - all the way to a similar style of your enforcer. At the 12 o clock position at the muzzle was a single weld, like an arc weld. The target sight was a PH - 5A. Front was a rugged ears a real thin Brass bead. It weighed in at 12 maybe 14 #. The recoil of this was a gentle push. At the time IVI ammo would turn up and I used some of it. It was scary how well this worked. 3 IVI rounds in under an inch at 100yds. At 400 yd - 5 shots were covered by one playing deck. Out of the few rifles I sold -over time - that is the one I would want back. Cheers to you and the rest of the crew. Cheers
been looking for a enfield in 7.62 for ages ... well done video thank you again cheers times three
The rifles can be had but the RSAF or Sterling 7.62 magazines are super duper rare. If you see one in operable condition buy it and ask questions later.
Like all the other posts, Thanks for the educational video.
Thanks so much for this video sir! Please do a No1 Mk3 bedding style(s) for your next video!
Great video Riflechair! I now feel confident in the disassembly of my Enfield and what to look for in regards to bedding issues. Thanks for making it.
Just make sure you always start with the action screw and you shouldn’t need to over tighten it when you’re done
@@Riflechair Rumour about a recent shipment including some Enfield Jungle Carbines:
th-cam.com/video/We3iE8o9zhk/w-d-xo.htmlm45s
Hi RC! I always learn something new here. Thanks so much.
I did something a little different on my No 4 Mk1*FTR Long Branch rifle. I inletted a small amount of wood from the the inside of the fore-stock around the receiver and trigger guard/ magazine well subframe in order to lay up a 2 layers of kevlar and kevlar fiber reinforced resin from the rear stock screw to in front of the chamber.
Thank you for this excellent video RC as no one else has taken the time to disassemble 4 rifles at once to be able to compare their bedding methods. Everyone knows how important bedding is to Lee Enfield accuracy! I've been lucky in being able to acquire good to excellent accuracy out of my numerous Lee Enfield rifles by manipulating handloads, not the rifles' bedding. Good is 2 MOA excellent is 1 MOA but I know the time will come when I need to ensure a rifle has proper bedding.
That was a lot of assembly and disassembly for one video. I don't think I'll do that again. The opportunities for losing screws it too great!
Love em!
Recently bought a #4 that had been made in 43 an was rebarreled with an extremely tight bore .307 vs .311...
Wood has shrunk (Colorado) so I bedded it... an free floated the bbl.. no luck, too much barrel whip... so I bedded it in the center, I got 2 moa... so I bedded the center and front end temporarily with wood compound and it shot .5 MOA UNTIL I got down to TX the compound came undone... so I used epoxy and I'm in the process of fine tuning the channel... hopefully I can get it back on track... once the temperature drops a bit.
What an amazing video, Thanks.
Hi RC, here is a little tip to help with the nut on the cross bolt on the rifle. Grind out the center of a driver bit that fits the slot with a Dremel tool to make clearance for the bolt. You can buy them at TSC or Princess Auto pretty cheap, get a couple just incase.
Great video, thanks for the info.
nice video, currently in the process of un sporterizing my No4 Mk1, I managed to find an original length barrel for it. I have all the parts now I'm just waiting for the final one which is the stock. Ordered it a couple weeks ago so hopefully soon I'll have mine finished.
Question about the play at the muzzle end of things. I have a 1944 Savage No4 and I can nudge the barrel horizontally to the left with slight pressure, but the barrel is bearing against the forestock at the right. I cannot move the barrel from center to the right at all. What's the method to remedy this? I haven't removed the wood to see what's actually going on yet. I'm assuming some light sanding on the inside right of the forestock followed by some raw linseed oil to seal. Not touching the vertical bearing surface. How much gap do I need? I read online about .01" but this doesn't seem like very much at all. Thank you in advance for your reply!!!
Hi Nicholas. I struggle with these requests because I can’t personally examine the rifle. From your description it is possible that the fore-stock to your rifle is not original to the barreled action.
1. It could be that your receiver is not bearing dead centre in the stock and that the draws are seating slightly to one side
2. It could be that your forestock is slightly bent / warped to one side
3. It could be that the stock is making firm contact on one side at the receiver ring and pushing the stock out of alignment. You should be able to put a feeler guage between the receiver ring and forestock with very little or no contact. Remove the stock and look for compression contact on one side. Use a file to gently lower the high spot (if any)
Again - I’m just guessing here. Goodluck and Maple Leaf Up
I recently picked up a sporterized 2a1 and am attempting to restore it as close to original as I can using the furniture set from a DP no.1 mk3. The DP stock is well worn and was an awkward fit. And since it's not the original furniture anyways, I'd like to strip the paint off of the wood,refinish it with linseed oil, and bed the action into the stock.
Being a no.1 pattern and being chambered in 7.62 I was wondering if these bedding principals apply to 2a1 rifles and if not can you explain the differences?
Interesting that you mention raw linseed oil, I have been trying to find it here in the US, no luck, even at lumber yards. Raw linseed oil used to be used on old wooden rain gutters on houses, also on cedar shake roofs. It soaks into wood better than boiled linseed oil, doesn't polymerize as quickly. I've Googled it, the returns are always for boiled oil.
You can find it arts and crafts stores. Usually in the oil paints section
@@Riflechair Thanks! I was looking for it by the quart/liter, something to stabilize wood that is starting to rot. It would be an online thing, my area is too rural for those high toned establishments.
Great stuff!
I have a p14 and m17 and both have grey epoxy , full action bedded. Im thinking of freefloating the barrels as they both are bedded an inch past the reciever. Free float for better harmonics i hope. Have you had one and did you ever bed one?
Thank you for the insite I have a 4 mk 1 * S mint but I am in USA my one gun to run with love it
Just got a lovely mark four long branch Fulton regulated loving the rifle
How much torque should you apply to the bedding screw
It should be under firm pressure but not too tight. Every rifle is different
I have a norinco jw 105 and the recoil lug has the the screw hole at the bottom so itl l be hard to do a recoil lug bedding and the rifle is free floated already. Maybe i can add a middle block of epoxy like a 3rd node for the harmon ics. Or just 2 inches in front of the recoil lu g so the rifle doesnt move side to side anymore.
The bands on this rifle are on backwards. The screw heads should be on the left hand side.
Where are you getting this? I prefer ithe screw heads on yhe same side as the bolt.
@@Riflechair I know it’s Enfield minutia and I remember reading somewhere about this arrangement. Anyway, a quick look through Skennerton’s The Lee Enfield A Century of Lee-Medford . . . book shows the screw heads on many instances. It you have the book, look on pages 190, 193, 407, 419, 495 and 526. In the whole world of things it doesn’t matter a hoot. However, your rear trigger guard screw and front sight protector screw have the head on the left hand side of the rifle. I believe it’s the same for most, if not all, of the earlier Enfields too. Thanks for making these videos - I really enjoy them.
Riflechair do you have and shoot any sporterized Lee Enfields? Are the sporterized ones less accurate? How much less ?
My No4 Mk1 doesn't have the upward pressure at the fore end and it shoots like crap. What would be the best way to adress the problem and fix it?
Adjust the draws...
Riflechair, what manufacturer made that No4 Mk2 (the 2nd rifle disassembled)?
ROF Fazakerley was a Royal Ordnance Factory plant in Fazakerley, Liverpool, which manufactured small arms such as the Sten and Sterling submachine guns and Lee-Enfield rifle during and after World War II.
@@Riflechair thank you sir
Would it be the same idea with a 308 NO4 MK1?
Any possibility of a video like this for the No. 1 Mk. 3?
Research SMLE barrel string tension and barrel harmonic node
Are the metal pieces blued or painted? What would you recomend?
Depends on year of manufacturing, maker, and if it's been arsenal reworked later. Some were blued, some were a black paint finish called suncorite. Some started out as blued and got painted later.
ARE ALL OF THOSE CHANNELS MILLED OUT INTHE INTERIOR OF THE STOCK UNDER THE BARREL JUST TO LIGHTEN THE RIFLE OR WHAT WAS THE REASON FOR THAT?
To lighten the stock and put the point of balance just forward of the magazine
How do you determine the 4-5 lbs of pressure at the end of the for end?
Just pressing the bottom of the barrel where it comes out the wood is usually enough.. it should lift against the top wood and return to centre bottom when release. If your are seriously anal, then you could use a spring balance and a loop of string to check the pull as the barrel is pulled off the bottom wood...!
I recently inherited 2 Enfield’s and am having a hard time figuring out exactly what they are. Could you possibly get in contact with me
Checkout his website at riflechair.com/ it has a section where you can get in contact
better editing , but otherwise decent video , thx for doing these ..
Someone has done a real job on that 4T! Not only have they used entirely the wrong wood finish, the bedding is completely shot.. there should be intimate contact at the front of the receiver and the knox form.. looks like someone has rasped out the wood. there should also be contact either halfway down the fore end or at the end. Under no circumstances should the barrel be touching the upper guard.
All the 7.62 versions of the No4 such as the L39, L42 and enforcer used a shortened stock and free float.
Lateral adjustment of the barrel is made by working on the "draws" which are at the angled faces on the back end of the stock..
Finally a small point with your description of the Enforcer having been owned by the "Scottish National Police". There is no such beast (although nationalist elements within Scotland might wish for one).. the current Scottish Police is known as "Police Scotland" and before that there were several Constabularies that served Scotland. I would imagine the Enforcer would have belonged to one of these Forces.
Nothing is more heartbreaking than varnish or polyurethane used on a milsurp stock.
Denatured alcohol is great for cleaning mung off and exposing wood without sandpaper - especially valuable collectors
@@Riflechair Excellent! thank you!
Why raw linseed oil and not boiled linseed oil?
Raw linseed to penetrate deep into the wood. BLO to dry and procure a protective shell on the exterior.
@@Riflechair good to know. Thankyou for the reply!
@@Riflechair Do you apply the raw linseed oil to inner channel of the stock or only exterior?
@@craigstanley3680 mostly the outside as this is where it tends to wash out. But yes the inside perhaps annually.
@@Riflechair Thanks
You talked too much