Well, it's been a long time, and I remember watching these videos 10 years ago, and they really came in handy. But now here I am recollecting important information, for my Def is back at the workshop for some maintenance. Thanks for this amazing library, Chris! You're amazing!
Fantastic video series. after watching this, I'm far less intimidated by wheel bearing, CV, basically all the rolling gear. I might actually be about to do this. I really hope you keep doing these. - thanks.
Well, I know it's been a good ten years now, but, do you think you still have the parts 6 and 11, so you can reupload it? They're somehow gone! Thanks!
did you adda sealant to the swivel ball housing to axle housing joint washer or just install it dry? any chance of leaks at the swivel housing/axle housing joint if you don't use a sealant?
It is knowing what metals you have in your tool kit that makes the difference. Copper leaves copper all over the thing your hitting but yeas good point. I do need a new one me thinks.
Hi Chris, yes to your question. it is the very next next video covering settin gup the shims. Didn't want to make this video too long as it is standing at 10 minutes already.
Good stuff, I've done this already on mine (RRC axle), but I'm findings things out that I may have done wrong or could do better - like getting new balls! they look like the grotty one. Will you be covering how many shims you'll need between the pin & housing to get the right amount of force on the housing?
Cracking stuff... :) Your braver than me with those seals... I'm less accurate with a hammer and rely on drifts or sockets! Plus I use a sizeable copper hammer on the race's etc... I've got enough damage to my ears... lol
One of my swivels on my 90 has bad pitting in lines following the gasket on full lock, I guess from being parked up for a long time. My question is how much of a prioirty is changing the swivel? I have the parts, but prefer to wait until spring as winter Sweden is not fun for working outside. Any advice please. It is leaking grease and I have been topping it up. I also notice I am getting grease in the diff as it overflows when I take the level plug out.
remember two things, if it leaks grease out it will let water in and the second. All Land Rovers leak. If it doesn't leak then it's out of oil. TBH you could tolerate the leaking but it could cause damage if it is left unchecked but you need to evaluate this and risk assess. Do you not have anyone who has a warm and dry garage that they could let you use?
@@trailerfitter2 Thanks, I will bump it up my priority list. The fuel pump packed up last week and the requlator this week. I look forward to the point of preventative maintenance. One advantage in North Sweden is the -21 temps mean not much water ingress. Cold starting is about a one hr project at these temps. Thanks for the feedback and keep up the excellent work. By the way I followed your videos for replacing pump and regulator. Mind you I did cut a hole in the floor to get to the pump, no chance to go the right way. All the Best Michael
I went with the britpart oem version for RRC with abs, there’s a copper backed pitted looking washer part no ftc124 , no idea where it goes ? I certainly didn’t remove one, any ideas ?
What are your thoughts on open axles, as in omitting the inner axle seal so that the wheel bearings and CV are lubricated by the 90W diff oil instead of bearing grease. I've been running that way for several years as many on land rover forums recommend it, but a professional opinion would be appreciated. I'm going to be putting in new swivel pin seals soon, so if open axles are discouraged, that would be a good time to go back to inner seals.
The oil levels are different firstly that is why there is a seal. EP oil is good for wheel bearings of course and i would agree to have it open to the hub from the housing. To open the swivel housing to the axle means you lower the oil level in the swivel housing. If it was workable Land Rover would have already done that.
Mark Kellgren there is a section in the workshop manuals that explains why there are seals in the axles tubes. It is recommended to ensure lubrication is correct in each of the transmission components they advice to replace the seals if they leak.
People looking at this video might also take a look at Defender 90 Keswick's video on the swivels. On each side there's a bolt with a thicker shank between ball and axle. See m.th-cam.com/video/5851kIDT8_g/w-d-xo.html Chris, your LRTV video's are a legacy that will keep o' helping LR owners for years! Thank you once again for your great work!
Well, it's been a long time, and I remember watching these videos 10 years ago, and they really came in handy. But now here I am recollecting important information, for my Def is back at the workshop for some maintenance. Thanks for this amazing library, Chris! You're amazing!
Every one of these that I’ve ever done has had the dampening bar brake plate bracket facing towards the inside not the outside
Fantastic video series. after watching this, I'm far less intimidated by wheel bearing, CV, basically all the rolling gear. I might actually be about to do this. I really hope you keep doing these. - thanks.
Well, I know it's been a good ten years now, but, do you think you still have the parts 6 and 11, so you can reupload it? They're somehow gone! Thanks!
Fantastic Video series really appreciated the help, Cheers!
did you adda sealant to the swivel ball housing to axle housing joint washer or just install it dry? any chance of leaks at the swivel housing/axle housing joint if you don't use a sealant?
It is knowing what metals you have in your tool kit that makes the difference. Copper leaves copper all over the thing your hitting but yeas good point. I do need a new one me thinks.
Yes we will be covering the whole lot
Hi Chris, yes to your question. it is the very next next video covering settin gup the shims. Didn't want to make this video too long as it is standing at 10 minutes already.
Can I do the reverse and assemble it on a table and install all together?
Good stuff, I've done this already on mine (RRC axle), but I'm findings things out that I may have done wrong or could do better - like getting new balls! they look like the grotty one.
Will you be covering how many shims you'll need between the pin & housing to get the right amount of force on the housing?
Cracking stuff... :) Your braver than me with those seals... I'm less accurate with a hammer and rely on drifts or sockets! Plus I use a sizeable copper hammer on the race's etc... I've got enough damage to my ears... lol
One of my swivels on my 90 has bad pitting in lines following the gasket on full lock, I guess from being parked up for a long time. My question is how much of a prioirty is changing the swivel? I have the parts, but prefer to wait until spring as winter Sweden is not fun for working outside. Any advice please. It is leaking grease and I have been topping it up. I also notice I am getting grease in the diff as it overflows when I take the level plug out.
remember two things, if it leaks grease out it will let water in and the second. All Land Rovers leak. If it doesn't leak then it's out of oil.
TBH you could tolerate the leaking but it could cause damage if it is left unchecked but you need to evaluate this and risk assess. Do you not have anyone who has a warm and dry garage that they could let you use?
@@trailerfitter2 Thanks, I will bump it up my priority list. The fuel pump packed up last week and the requlator this week. I look forward to the point of preventative maintenance. One advantage in North Sweden is the -21 temps mean not much water ingress. Cold starting is about a one hr project at these temps. Thanks for the feedback and keep up the excellent work. By the way I followed your videos for replacing pump and regulator. Mind you I did cut a hole in the floor to get to the pump, no chance to go the right way. All the Best Michael
Are you using Britpart? I’d like your opinion about the different brands of overhaul kit
Not sure these days. Everything is made in China.
I went with the britpart oem version for RRC with abs, there’s a copper backed pitted looking washer part no ftc124 , no idea where it goes ? I certainly didn’t remove one, any ideas ?
What are your thoughts on open axles, as in omitting the inner axle seal so that the wheel bearings and CV are lubricated by the 90W diff oil instead of bearing grease. I've been running that way for several years as many on land rover forums recommend it, but a professional opinion would be appreciated. I'm going to be putting in new swivel pin seals soon, so if open axles are discouraged, that would be a good time to go back to inner seals.
The oil levels are different firstly that is why there is a seal. EP oil is good for wheel bearings of course and i would agree to have it open to the hub from the housing. To open the swivel housing to the axle means you lower the oil level in the swivel housing. If it was workable Land Rover would have already done that.
***** So you are recommending against eliminating the inner axle seal then?
Mark Kellgren Well, put it this way, If it was mine the seal stays.
***** I trust your opinion! When I do my swivel seals, I'll go back to inner seal and grease shot! Thank you
Mark Kellgren there is a section in the workshop manuals that explains why there are seals in the axles tubes. It is recommended to ensure lubrication is correct in each of the transmission components they advice to replace the seals if they leak.
I think of them as little copper kisses... :P
Most of the metals in my toolbox are a vague rust colour through lack of use... lol
People looking at this video might also take a look at Defender 90 Keswick's video on the swivels. On each side there's a bolt with a thicker shank between ball and axle. See m.th-cam.com/video/5851kIDT8_g/w-d-xo.html
Chris, your LRTV video's are a legacy that will keep o' helping LR owners for years! Thank you once again for your great work!
I'm not able to find Part 6 of the "Swivel pin housing overhaul" series. By the way, all your videos are GREAT!
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks. Not sure why N0 6 isn't there . I'll look into it.
@@trailerfitter2 Aye, P6 and P11 have gone walkies :/
copper kisses? novelle way of looking at it.
just don't ask about the rubber mallet action...