My experience of Laminating, would be to lay the long piece first, then put the strip around the coney part. If it’s a seen part you won’t see the join that way. Also I would cut the strip at 0-90 it’s easier to work round corners, the weave should be straight not at a 45 degree angle
You need a filament dryer for your cf nylon. You won't need to sand your 3d prints anymore. Run it at 70c for 24 hours then run a ptfe tube to the printer prints will come out way nicer
great creativity in your project but a couple of suggestions, 1) use a fine hair like camel or horse hair brush as it leaves a better finish so less prep and 2) work on keeping even spray patterns for more even coats
I advise you to use non-perforated release film to prevent dry spots and pinholes in you parts. There wouldn't be a point in using perforated film without a bleeder cloth anyways. Also it's advisable to use a breather cloth over your non-perforated film to get a better vacuum.
To add to this point, pre-preg materials have a carefully controlled resin to material ratio in order to optimize strength and weight. Using perforated release film removes resin that is needed for the material to cure properly. Resin starved parts are brittle and subject ro cracking.
I make them for RC bodies, you got it down correctly, except don't use the min wax, use the automotive polyurethane clear and it's a dream when finished... 👍
You should not do the bagging like infusion but put the entire mold in a vacuum bag with absorbant material after the release film. And also keep vacuum during curing
Good job, but perforated film is used for wet lay. Unperforated film is used for prepreg as the resin to carbon ratio is correct so you don't want to remove any of it.
Ну наконец то . Я уже думал ты забыл про нас ,так сказать кинул ))) .Как всегда ,видео на высоте и предельно ясно показано поэтапно. Жду новых видео ...
Hi Philip wellcome back😉... this system is very good but in my opinion you not learn to work... i things this that too too simple. But i think it an very good system for the big industry where production times are of the essence. in any case great idea😉
What's your opinion on the prepeg dry carbon fiber then resin infusion? Is dry carbon lighter? I feel from watch your vids that carbon infusion is easier to manipulate into tight spaces than prepeg c.f. thanks!!
Should use sealed, not perforated, release film with prepreg. Otherwise, some of the "perfect ration" of resin will leak past the film and cause voids (pinholes, etc.).
Nice part, but lots of unused prepreg here. Better use tape to map out the surfaces beforehand and create a stencil with it. This way, you only use the amount of CF you actually need.
Выглядит красиво, но меня волнует крепление нейлоновых ножек. У полиамида достаточно тяжело клеиться. Вы же используете эпоксидную смолу. Я пробовал также клеить издели из полиамида, только они были армированы стекловолокном. Результат был плохой. Все выглядело хорошо, но при небольшом усилии весь клеевой слой откалывался
Ok can you explain why the first time you put item in the heater your numbers staid the same compare 2nd time your numbers were cleared out… I could only image you’re it using that small heater..
Hello, you keep getting the cooking process wrong, first of all you should build yourself a large and co-operated oven, then you don't have to put the micro-perforated blue film but the red film for high temperatures and above this the aerating cloth. If you keep getting holes or you make a mistake in laminating, you either leave the bag hanging in the corners, or you need to correct the firing.👍
![How to Simply Change your Car Parts to Real Carbon Fiber (Carbon fiber Skinning) [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zKGwHYBcs-U/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Simply Change your Car Parts to Real Carbon Fiber (Carbon fiber Skinning) [DIY]](/img/tr.png)
![How to Change your Car Interior to Real Carbon Fiber (Carbon fiber Skinning/Wrapping) [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GhG9_ptRhwg/mqdefault.jpg)
My experience of Laminating, would be to lay the long piece first, then put the strip around the coney part. If it’s a seen part you won’t see the join that way. Also I would cut the strip at 0-90 it’s easier to work round corners, the weave should be straight not at a 45 degree angle
You need a filament dryer for your cf nylon. You won't need to sand your 3d prints anymore.
Run it at 70c for 24 hours then run a ptfe tube to the printer prints will come out way nicer
great creativity in your project but a couple of suggestions, 1) use a fine hair like camel or horse hair brush as it leaves a better finish so less prep and 2) work on keeping even spray patterns for more even coats
Excellent videos! Help me a lot What kind of towels do you use for cleaning the carbon parts? Thanks
I advise you to use non-perforated release film to prevent dry spots and pinholes in you parts. There wouldn't be a point in using perforated film without a bleeder cloth anyways. Also it's advisable to use a breather cloth over your non-perforated film to get a better vacuum.
To add to this point, pre-preg materials have a carefully controlled resin to material ratio in order to optimize strength and weight. Using perforated release film removes resin that is needed for the material to cure properly. Resin starved parts are brittle and subject ro cracking.
가끔이라도 올려줘서 너무 좋습니다!
Looks amazing, well done! Loving your work as always 👍
Hello there.
I have a question
What kind of mechanism you use to remove the inside air from the bag?
would you be willing to compile a list of materials/tools to attempt this project? I want to make a carbon engine cover for my 335i lol
Gelcoat Black, Glass fibre staple, epoxy resin for the mould. Prepreg (dry Carbon + epoxy works also) release agent, release film, Vacuum bag, cotton flece.
You also need some filler, sanding material, scissors, flex / dremel whit diamond blade, knife, wooden wedges etc.
😎👍
I make them for RC bodies, you got it down correctly, except don't use the min wax, use the automotive polyurethane clear and it's a dream when finished... 👍
You should not do the bagging like infusion but put the entire mold in a vacuum bag with absorbant material after the release film. And also keep vacuum during curing
Good job, but perforated film is used for wet lay. Unperforated film is used for prepreg as the resin to carbon ratio is correct so you don't want to remove any of it.
Perfect You're still here ❤
How much would something like this cost, material wise, if i were to do it myself? Thanks.
Do you use any protection on your hands? We never work whitout gloves on prepreg. It still very hazardous
😂
Not so much the hands but breathing it in
Ну наконец то . Я уже думал ты забыл про нас ,так сказать кинул ))) .Как всегда ,видео на высоте и предельно ясно показано поэтапно. Жду новых видео ...
nice job, thanks for sharing :-)
No, this was not a good job.
Everything in this video is wrong.
와..자주보는데요.
대단하시구. 멋지세요.
Dude you are a pro
Welcome back. your content is missed. I hope you're doing well.
Fantastic work🎉
Hi Philip wellcome back😉... this system is very good but in my opinion you not learn to work... i things this that too too simple.
But i think it an very good system for the big industry where production times are of the essence.
in any case great idea😉
늘 기다리고 있습니다
Nice
포지드카본에서 드라이카본으로 새로 만드셨군요~
녹이나서 구멍이 길게 난 자동차의 하부에 가본으로 덥을 생각이 있어 정보를 찾던중에 들르게 되었습니다. 뜨거운 열을 가하지 않고 철에 잘 붙게 하는 방법은 없을까요?
기다렸어유....진짜 영상 잘봤어유^^
Great video, but please wear gloves. Epoxy is bad for your skin/health and also the pre-preg will be contaminated with grease from your hands
진짜 많이 기다렸습니다
에코님은 카카오 물티슈를 너무 좋아하심🙂
What's your opinion on the prepeg dry carbon fiber then resin infusion? Is dry carbon lighter? I feel from watch your vids that carbon infusion is easier to manipulate into tight spaces than prepeg c.f. thanks!!
Легче и крепче.
Have you ever done something much larger, like an E61 panoramic sunroof?
great job! that clear spray doesnt turn yellow\green with all the heat in the engine bay?
This legend got me into this, brilliant video as always mate.
Bravo quelle patience !
다른 만들기는 다 따라해도 이건 못따라 하겠다. 손이 진짜 많이 가는구나.ㄷㄷㄷ
Что за препрег использовался и какой плотности? И температура запекания тоже интересна
아 정말 배우고 싶은 기술입니다.
이런거 배울수 있는 국비 교육과정은 없나요?
Should use sealed, not perforated, release film with prepreg. Otherwise, some of the "perfect ration" of resin will leak past the film and cause voids (pinholes, etc.).
Exactly, also there is really no point in using perforated film if you don't use a bleeder cloth.
Nice part, but lots of unused prepreg here. Better use tape to map out the surfaces beforehand and create a stencil with it. This way, you only use the amount of CF you actually need.
Where do you buy carbon fiber like this video has
And how much for such a piece?
The best 👏🏻👏🏻
why all the creases(wavyness) on the sealant tape? wouldnt it be better to just lay it flat? nice engine cover... nice work.
The bag would bridge if enough slack is not present
Spray with the spray can at 90° so that the paint layer is even
WOOOW TOP DIY
didn't you get an ultrasonic cutter? I thought you would use that over the dremel.
I want to know what is the name of the carbon material used in it
Suché díly? Ony se daji v troubě vyrábět i mokré díly??
Very nice!
Good job as always 👍
What clear coat is that ?
Where do you buy the carbon I need to order some..???
Выглядит красиво, но меня волнует крепление нейлоновых ножек. У полиамида достаточно тяжело клеиться. Вы же используете эпоксидную смолу. Я пробовал также клеить издели из полиамида, только они были армированы стекловолокном. Результат был плохой. Все выглядело хорошо, но при небольшом усилии весь клеевой слой откалывался
오븐이 있어서 나도 하나 만들어 볼까 하고 들어 왔는데, 전문가들이 돈을 받아야 하는 이유를 알게 되는 영상!
Ok can you explain why the first time you put item in the heater your numbers staid the same compare 2nd time your numbers were cleared out… I could only image you’re it using that small heater..
Exelente como siempre amigo!
기다렸습나다
that's incredible
What's going to be made next?!
no no fajnie Ci to wyszło :)
The 3d printed mounts in a high temp environment? Hmm
Better buy a Easy Composites Oven and Pump if you want to do this right. It's too expensive to make mistakes with this material.
Agree with a decent pump, but the EC oven's base price is over £1700! A standard oven works well if you use a digital temp sensor to monitor the temp.
형 살아있었구나
awesome
Подскажите хороший современный учебный материал по изготовлению карбоновых деталей
czy piekarnik do pieczenia też się sprawdzi ?
0:46 Prepreg Carbon Fiber (Dry Carbon Fiber)
안녕하세요. 프리프레그도 드라이 카본이라고 표현을 하는 건가요?? 드라이는 레진함침이 안되어있는 상태일 때 쓰는 용어인 줄 알았는데 궁금합니다~
안녕하세요
말씀하신 것이 맞습니다
본래 레진함침이 되어있지 않은 상태의 카본섬유를 드라이카본이라 부르는 것이 맞습니다
하지만 자동차쪽에선 프리프레그로 만들어진 파츠를 드라이카본이라 부르고 있습니다
@@ECOLAPStudio 아 그렇군요 처음 알았습니다. 항상 좋은영상 감사합니다.
프리프레그카본은 레진으로 도막층이 형성되어있지 않아 드라이카본이라 부르는것 같아요
오이오이!!!! 기다렸다고!!!!!!
Can you make a motorcycle frame for me? I like your work.
바이크 카본휠도 만드실수 있을듯 합니다.
Babe, quick! Eco-lap just uploaded a new video
Is this master at work in side his house?
Can we request part. And if so would sell it back to me😅 97 lexus sc400 center console
언니 살아있을줄 알았다구!!!!!
great video,but where is my Mpower
Где купить такой карбон ?
Please, fix retracts on your ender 3...
Magnifique ❤️
Hello, you keep getting the cooking process wrong, first of all you should build yourself a large and co-operated oven, then you don't have to put the micro-perforated blue film but the red film for high temperatures and above this the aerating cloth. If you keep getting holes or you make a mistake in laminating, you either leave the bag hanging in the corners, or you need to correct the firing.👍
Why so many layers (legit question)?
Interesante, crees que se pueda poner un aislante termo acústico tipo kilmat por la parte interna, a modo de que cambie el sonido, saludos
I hope in a tennis raquet😊
Respekt !!!!!
👏🏻👏🏻🤩
With dry (not prepreg) carbon there's no need for an oven unless the part will be exposed to high temperatures
카본 섬유는 어디서 사야 하나요?
소량구매하시는거면 인터넷사이트 '화이바맨' 이나 'FRP 샵' 에서 구매하실 수 있습니다.
Its time for a vacuum pump homie...😂
8:45 에폭시를 섞은 후 진공챔버에서 degasing 과정은 필요 없나요? 부품에 칠하는 과정에서 공기 기포가 어차피 들어가게 되나요?
저정도 얇은 두께로 올릴경우에는 딱히 탈포과정이 필요해 보이지는 않네요~탈포를
하더리도 사실상 붓 사이의 공간을 통해서 기포가 발생할수는 있지만 도포 이후 오븐에
들어가면서 열에 의해 탈포가 되기도 할것같네요ㅎㅎ
Haces llanta de bicicleta r.28?
Wieviel soll so ein Bauteil real kosten? $ 500?
Trop de travail juste pour une pièce comme ça et qui en plus ne se voit même pas car elle cachée sous le capot.
And this is why carbon parts cost an absolute fortune, very labour intensive
Крутяк
마지막에 3D프린터로 만든 마운트는 오래 못버티지 싶은데요 카본으로 한번 더빵 했으면 완벽했을뜻
“You can’t eat at errybodys houuuuuse”
Thanks for showing me that, now I know to never do it.
you need a refrigerator compressor as a vacuum pump
손이 좀 탔네요 ㅋㅋ
엠포도 좀 보여줘요 ㅠㅠ