To answer a common question I've been getting check out my update video here th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html Yes the block has been welded (prior to my ownership) and it's has other crack repairs.
This guy is an absolutely angel. Cut right to the chase saved thousands of people money, great at what he does, helped 100s of people feel confident enough to tackle such a big job yet easy with great points.
Bro your videos probably saved me a couple thousand dollars .thank u for making such a easy too understand content u saved me and my sons bonding time. Ur great five stars.
These two videos are awesome. Long story short, I picked up a used 1986 Alpha One 140 this spring. Boat was cosmetically well cared for, but I have done a lot of work including bellows, gimbal bearing, universal joints, and more. Finally got things working, but I had this nagging feeling to check the compression (yah, I should have done that on purchase), and my #2 and #3 cylinders are far below the other two. I have no other symptoms besides some slight acceleration hesitation (presume a carb work incoming), boat doesn't overheat and I have decent power, but it looks like I have this project in my future now. Clearly the prior owner didn't maintain the boat mechanically very well.
Thanks so much for the compliment! I've been working really hard, really giving TH-cam a shot. It's pretty common for these engines do blow the head gasket in that spot. Being that you don't know the full history of the boat I'm willing to get it overheated at one time and started to hurt that gasket. How low was the compression? If it's below 80 it could be causing your acceleration issue.
@@daleofalltrades Confirmed today with a separate compression tester the #2, #3 cylinders are at 65-70, while the other two are at 130. The prior owner even told me the only time the boat left him stranded was when a thermostat went out, so I think we have the culprit. I plan to begin the teardown tomorrow.
Yeah definitely not a bad idea. Order the parts online now. Took about a week to get my parts. Ordered mostly from Amazon. I bet when you get the head off you'll see some signs of stress on the gasket. Good luck. It's not too bad. While your in there check your exhaust flapper. They can get wore out over the years... Mine were gone.
@@daleofalltrades Confirmed! I had the exact same failure as you between #2, 3 cylinders. I have to clean it up and hope it's within spec, but I've already contacted a few area machine shops that have about a 2 week lead time.
Love working on these , super simple ,reliable, So far I’ve only came across one cracked block... I can’t stress the importance of having a decent waterproof doghouse.Thats one of the biggest reasons why these motors are getting hard to find
My Four Winns engine cover splits open from the middle. Didn't think anything of it when I bought it, but boy what a dumb design, the engine gets soaked. Trying to come up with a panel I can put above the motor to keep it dry.
Thanks for the video, I have a 3.0 but it is a Volvo penta outdrive I am sure they are basically the same gm 3.0 liter engine . ...head gasket here i come !
Hi, Thanx for a very instructional video. If I suspect that I have done something wrong in this. The engine is running fine on idle and without load with no clatter. But it runs uneven and some backfiring on max throttle in the water. Could I have tightened a valve to much? How do I check that? Thanx Anders
Only way to check valve lash is to loosen all of the back up and start over. Did you move the distributor around? Sounds like it got out of timing. Or the plug wires are installed on the wrong order
Great video...i just got my 3.0 back running after 1 1/2 years...first start up it was running crappy then it blew some insulation out the exhaust on the prob and i noticed water in the oil...do you think it was from the exhaust beinh plugged?
Thank you! Sorry for your misfortune. Water in the cylinder while an engine is running is never a good thing. Take special care when inspecting the valves and push rods. If hydro lock occurred it cand bend things in there. Also while your in there check the exhaust flapper. I would figure out how water got in there. Thanks for watching. Best of luck!
I have a lot of history with automotive engines but this is my first marine engine, thanks for the tip on the exhaust flapper…there wasn’t one, ha! Found the metal rod it used to be on but I assume the rest fell apart and went out the exhaust, Hopefully it ends up being that simple.
Mine was the same. If it worried take the prop off and make sure the exhaust passage is clear. I had a metal piece of the flapper stuck sideway in mine. Worth a check for piece of mind. I'm in the same boat as you (pun intended) I'm learning as I go.
Great video. i was just going to replace my exhaust manifold and seeing this made me say what the hell, just do the head gasket while i'm already working on the boat. I'm hoping to set my valve lash today and it just hit me. How the heck did you turn the motor over to hit the timing marks properly? I tried using the alt belt to no avail.... are you using a remote starter and just tapping it until it lines up? Thanks for your help!
@@daleofalltrades I used a remote starter button and it went much smoother than I was anticipating. I have a slight valve cover leak now though that I can't seem to remedy. I'm torquing to 40 inch pounds. Is that what you are going with? I hear people saying it feels like too much and can't help but think they are going 40 foot pounds. I'd like to know what you did and are you using any sealant or just straight cork gasket? Thanks a ton!
Hello, a really good video and everything is well described, but I still have to ask you something, how can it happen that the valve flaps can become misaligned, a tappet is broken, do you have an idea?
Well if a lifter "tappet" is broken then that is why your valves are out of adjustment... You'll need to replace the bad/broken lifter's or replace all the lifter's. I'd replace the rocker as and push rods also. Lifter's can fail. Although it's not super common it does happen
Great vid. I just got my mercruiser 3.0L head machine from the shop found water in the oil. I got new head gasket. Im in the process of cleaning up the pistons and block. What did you used to clean your block and piston?
Thanks. I didn't do a full year down so I didn't clean the pistons, nor was there enough water in my oil to matter. I used acetone to clean both mating surfaces. It's actually funny you should mention all this as I will have an update video coming out on mine. My gasket blew again. But the block isn't worth rebuilding cuz it has multiple cracks that have been repaired. So I do a Band-Aid fix in the video.
I like your tight, visible framing of your procedures. However! Between acetone cleaning mating surfaces & dropping the head back down on the block, I did not actually see the new head gasket being placed...oversight? Covered somewhere else? Thanks
At 2:10 I cleaned the surfaces and at 2:19 I had put the head gasket on off camera but you can see it sitting on the block. Just didn't record placing it on. It's pretty straightforward, can't do it wrong. Make sure and check out my updated video that touches on some commeon questions I've gotten and more tips on replacement as I had some more issues a few months later. Lots of good info in this video. th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html thanks for watching!
@@donens9310 side note I did just recently purchase a used stripped block for a rebuild in the future just in case. My block is also cracked (prior to my ownership)
Hey man good video, question?...how do you move the cylinders for valve adjustment with the front motor mount in the middle?....I can't find a way to get anything down there to move the cylinders and adjust the valves? Thanks
I used an unorthodox method which is why I didn't show it on camera. That being said I can't actually remember how I turned it. This was 2 years ago now. Honestly it's easiest to adjust the valves snug and then doing the rest buy ear like I did at the end of the video
Hi Dave and thanks for a great video! How do you turn the engine around to get it to top dead centre? On my engine the engine stand is in the way and I'd rather not take that away. Thanx Anders
You have to remove it or use the starter and bump the key. But you can't do that once it's tore apart. Or you can put it all together and adjust the lifters the way I did at the end of the video
I used this kit for the manifold (keep in mind there are 3 different head styles, this is the more common however.) www.amazon.com/dp/B0001CLFHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8QKGZBSB3XY0CXFVBKD9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I used this head gasket kit (this should work no problem on any 3.0 mercruiser.) www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMGSDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HT57FDD9MPP21MT7JZ5H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If i didnt do anything but loosen and remove the rods, just like you did, in theory wouldnt i be able to just put them back in place and tighten, since i did not do anything but take them Out?
Once you loosen a rocker arm you have to adjust them regardless one re assembled. Also check out my follow up video here th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html
Hey Dale! Your videos are invaluable to me. I have the same issues. Can please help explain how you got cylinder 1 on compression stroke top dead center? What do I look for to make sure it is? Thanks man.
@@daleofalltrades yes it does. Thanks! Your videos are awesome. I am doing the exact same thing Tuesday to mine. Head gasket, water pump, and all impeller and lower unit water hoses. Got a big overheating issue. I didn’t cook the head gasket, but it seems easy enough to change as long as I’m doing all of that to it. Thoughts?
@@daleofalltrades I should add, I bought the boat after it sat dry for 15 years. All the seals and stuff got to be rough by now. I have a whole gasket set to replace… worth the trouble?
If you blew a 3 liter head gasket its because you severely overheated. Its going to have to be machined and maged. Even then it still could be scrap because the metal now has internal stresses that will re-warp it. Not to mention all the micro cracks overheating causes. In conclusion keep that impeller in good shape by replacing it often
I didn't see you use thread sealer on the head bolts. I have a Mercruiser 140 fill it's No1 cylinder with water over winter because previous owner had not used sealer when they replaced the head. I'd check your engine doesn't need the same. I used Loctite 567. Thanks for the vid
Just curious how did you rotate the motor to find TDC? I’m have a heck of a time trying to do this. I can’t get to the nut with motor mount in the way.
Been a bit since I did it..... If I remember correctly I used a pry bar on the webbing of the pulley. I'm a tag figgy how I pulled it of it's been almost 2 years now.
@@daleofalltrades thanks for the reply! So I did some more sleuthing today. Oil on dipstick looks new, no sigh of water there. I pulled the block water drain plugs and that water was clear. I drained the driveline oil and it looked good (no water as well). Is it possible that it hadn’t been run in so long there was a ton of carbon and what not to be blown out and that’s what made the exhaust water so black and smelly? I didn’t let it run long after I discovered that for fear of not knowing what it was. I’m planning on draining and changing the engine oil as well as driveline oil to see for sure. Gonna check compression and the plugs. Also gonna change the water impeller, no telling if that has ever been done. One more question, I didn’t hook up water to the driveline intake until after I got it to kick over/start. I never let it run for more that just 15-20 seconds. Could that have disintegrated the impeller and caused the black? It had been sitting for at least 2 years, maybe more, so I could see that being highly likely. I didn’t know about some of these things to do on a boat that hasn’t been running for a while till now (my first boat!), was just treating it like getting and old beater car running.
If u want my honest opinion just get them snug all on tdc (top dead center) and then run the engine and adjust like I do at the end of the video. That will give you the best results.
I believe so. But I can't be 100 percent sure. A simple Google search for you specific engine should verify. The head gasket is definitely going to be the same as the block really never changed on the top side
To answer a common question I've been getting check out my update video here th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html
Yes the block has been welded (prior to my ownership) and it's has other crack repairs.
Hey dale, did you turn the motor to adjust the valves?. Didn’t show in the video. But why the timing would change if you don’t touch the distributor?.
@sebastiangomez6929 I honestly can't remember. This was 3 years ago. But it's always a good idea to double check timing after doing that much work
This guy is an absolutely angel. Cut right to the chase saved thousands of people money, great at what he does, helped 100s of people feel confident enough to tackle such a big job yet easy with great points.
@@natanieljames1026 thanks so much for the nice comment
Bro your videos probably saved me a couple thousand dollars .thank u for making such a easy too understand content u saved me and my sons bonding time. Ur great five stars.
Thanks so much for complement. Super glad I could help. That's my goal. Don't forget to subscribe 😁 I have lots of boat content
These two videos are awesome. Long story short, I picked up a used 1986 Alpha One 140 this spring. Boat was cosmetically well cared for, but I have done a lot of work including bellows, gimbal bearing, universal joints, and more. Finally got things working, but I had this nagging feeling to check the compression (yah, I should have done that on purchase), and my #2 and #3 cylinders are far below the other two. I have no other symptoms besides some slight acceleration hesitation (presume a carb work incoming), boat doesn't overheat and I have decent power, but it looks like I have this project in my future now. Clearly the prior owner didn't maintain the boat mechanically very well.
Thanks so much for the compliment! I've been working really hard, really giving TH-cam a shot. It's pretty common for these engines do blow the head gasket in that spot. Being that you don't know the full history of the boat I'm willing to get it overheated at one time and started to hurt that gasket. How low was the compression? If it's below 80 it could be causing your acceleration issue.
@@daleofalltrades Confirmed today with a separate compression tester the #2, #3 cylinders are at 65-70, while the other two are at 130. The prior owner even told me the only time the boat left him stranded was when a thermostat went out, so I think we have the culprit. I plan to begin the teardown tomorrow.
Yeah definitely not a bad idea. Order the parts online now. Took about a week to get my parts. Ordered mostly from Amazon. I bet when you get the head off you'll see some signs of stress on the gasket. Good luck. It's not too bad. While your in there check your exhaust flapper. They can get wore out over the years... Mine were gone.
@@daleofalltrades Thanks for the flapper tip, I will definitely take a peek!
@@daleofalltrades Confirmed! I had the exact same failure as you between #2, 3 cylinders. I have to clean it up and hope it's within spec, but I've already contacted a few area machine shops that have about a 2 week lead time.
Love working on these , super simple ,reliable, So far I’ve only came across one cracked block... I can’t stress the importance of having a decent waterproof doghouse.Thats one of the biggest reasons why these motors are getting hard to find
Yea well unfortunately mine was cracked prior to my ownership. At least I'm not to blame.
My Four Winns engine cover splits open from the middle. Didn't think anything of it when I bought it, but boy what a dumb design, the engine gets soaked. Trying to come up with a panel I can put above the motor to keep it dry.
Thanks for the video, I have a 3.0 but it is a Volvo penta outdrive I am sure they are basically the same gm 3.0 liter engine . ...head gasket here i come !
The Volvo Penta is the same block, with some different bolt ons
This was AWESOME thanks man!
You got it!
Thanks for all the Videos Dale... Awesome
Thanks, it's been a fun adventure!
Great job man love the vid keep up the good work!
Thanks 👍
Terrific video!!!!! Thank you
Excelente explicacion voy a ver si puedo hacerlo.
Hi, Thanx for a very instructional video. If I suspect that I have done something wrong in this. The engine is running fine on idle and without load with no clatter. But it runs uneven and some backfiring on max throttle in the water. Could I have tightened a valve to much? How do I check that? Thanx Anders
Only way to check valve lash is to loosen all of the back up and start over. Did you move the distributor around? Sounds like it got out of timing. Or the plug wires are installed on the wrong order
Great video...i just got my 3.0 back running after 1 1/2 years...first start up it was running crappy then it blew some insulation out the exhaust on the prob and i noticed water in the oil...do you think it was from the exhaust beinh plugged?
@@danlee1904 perhaps. Sounds odd
This is great video thanks. Just starting into mine after it ran rough the other day and I found Cyl 1 full of water…
Thank you! Sorry for your misfortune. Water in the cylinder while an engine is running is never a good thing. Take special care when inspecting the valves and push rods. If hydro lock occurred it cand bend things in there. Also while your in there check the exhaust flapper. I would figure out how water got in there. Thanks for watching. Best of luck!
I have a lot of history with automotive engines but this is my first marine engine, thanks for the tip on the exhaust flapper…there wasn’t one, ha! Found the metal rod it used to be on but I assume the rest fell apart and went out the exhaust, Hopefully it ends up being that simple.
Mine was the same. If it worried take the prop off and make sure the exhaust passage is clear. I had a metal piece of the flapper stuck sideway in mine. Worth a check for piece of mind. I'm in the same boat as you (pun intended) I'm learning as I go.
Great video. i was just going to replace my exhaust manifold and seeing this made me say what the hell, just do the head gasket while i'm already working on the boat. I'm hoping to set my valve lash today and it just hit me. How the heck did you turn the motor over to hit the timing marks properly? I tried using the alt belt to no avail.... are you using a remote starter and just tapping it until it lines up? Thanks for your help!
I had my wife tap the key and used the starter. Otherwise there is a special tool you need and you have to remove the front motor mount
Thank you.
@@daleofalltrades I used a remote starter button and it went much smoother than I was anticipating. I have a slight valve cover leak now though that I can't seem to remedy. I'm torquing to 40 inch pounds. Is that what you are going with? I hear people saying it feels like too much and can't help but think they are going 40 foot pounds. I'd like to know what you did and are you using any sealant or just straight cork gasket? Thanks a ton!
@@vdubluv222 I re used the rubber/silicone gasket that was on it. No leaks and they tightened snug. No torque spec used on my end.
@@daleofalltrades thanks again
Hey Dale, loving you videos! Could you do a video on how to adjust the throttle cables?
Thanks. Good suggestion I'll try to touch on that in the future
Hello, a really good video and everything is well described, but I still have to ask you something, how can it happen that the valve flaps can become misaligned, a tappet is broken, do you have an idea?
Well if a lifter "tappet" is broken then that is why your valves are out of adjustment... You'll need to replace the bad/broken lifter's or replace all the lifter's. I'd replace the rocker as and push rods also. Lifter's can fail. Although it's not super common it does happen
Great vid. I just got my mercruiser 3.0L head machine from the shop found water in the oil. I got new head gasket. Im in the process of cleaning up the pistons and block. What did you used to clean your block and piston?
Thanks. I didn't do a full year down so I didn't clean the pistons, nor was there enough water in my oil to matter. I used acetone to clean both mating surfaces. It's actually funny you should mention all this as I will have an update video coming out on mine. My gasket blew again. But the block isn't worth rebuilding cuz it has multiple cracks that have been repaired. So I do a Band-Aid fix in the video.
I like your tight, visible framing of your procedures. However! Between acetone cleaning mating surfaces & dropping the head back down on the block, I did not actually see the new head gasket being placed...oversight? Covered somewhere else? Thanks
At 2:10 I cleaned the surfaces and at 2:19 I had put the head gasket on off camera but you can see it sitting on the block. Just didn't record placing it on. It's pretty straightforward, can't do it wrong. Make sure and check out my updated video that touches on some commeon questions I've gotten and more tips on replacement as I had some more issues a few months later. Lots of good info in this video. th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html thanks for watching!
Great video again. When your head gasket blew, did you have any water in the oil? If so, could that not cause damage to mains, crank, etc.?
I did have a tad milky oil. It can cause damage however I believe it was caught soon enough as it's been a year now with no further issues
@@daleofalltrades Thanks.
@@donens9310 side note I did just recently purchase a used stripped block for a rebuild in the future just in case. My block is also cracked (prior to my ownership)
Hey man good video, question?...how do you move the cylinders for valve adjustment with the front motor mount in the middle?....I can't find a way to get anything down there to move the cylinders and adjust the valves?
Thanks
I used an unorthodox method which is why I didn't show it on camera. That being said I can't actually remember how I turned it. This was 2 years ago now. Honestly it's easiest to adjust the valves snug and then doing the rest buy ear like I did at the end of the video
Hi Dave and thanks for a great video! How do you turn the engine around to get it to top dead centre? On my engine the engine stand is in the way and I'd rather not take that away. Thanx Anders
You have to remove it or use the starter and bump the key. But you can't do that once it's tore apart. Or you can put it all together and adjust the lifters the way I did at the end of the video
What gasket/kit did you end up purchasing? I'm about to tear mine apart. Love the video! Didn't overthink any part of the procedure.
I used this kit for the manifold (keep in mind there are 3 different head styles, this is the more common however.) www.amazon.com/dp/B0001CLFHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8QKGZBSB3XY0CXFVBKD9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I used this head gasket kit (this should work no problem on any 3.0 mercruiser.)
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMGSDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HT57FDD9MPP21MT7JZ5H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the compliment, glad I could help.
Did I see a 5 bladed Prop on that lower unit ? What kind of performance is that offering ? Thanks.
Yes, it's a pulling prop, you lose a little top speed but gain how quickly it plains out. It's a quick silver highfive
If i didnt do anything but loosen and remove the rods, just like you did, in theory wouldnt i be able to just put them back in place and tighten, since i did not do anything but take them
Out?
Once you loosen a rocker arm you have to adjust them regardless one re assembled.
Also check out my follow up video here th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html
Hey Dale! Your videos are invaluable to me. I have the same issues. Can please help explain how you got cylinder 1 on compression stroke top dead center? What do I look for to make sure it is?
Thanks man.
You want the front cylinder (cyl 1) all the way to the top with both the valve closed. That is the compression stroke.
Hope that helps
@@daleofalltrades yes it does. Thanks! Your videos are awesome. I am doing the exact same thing Tuesday to mine. Head gasket, water pump, and all impeller and lower unit water hoses. Got a big overheating issue. I didn’t cook the head gasket, but it seems easy enough to change as long as I’m doing all of that to it. Thoughts?
@@daleofalltrades I should add, I bought the boat after it sat dry for 15 years. All the seals and stuff got to be rough by now. I have a whole gasket set to replace… worth the trouble?
Worth the trouble maybe. Worth the piece of mind definitely!
8:41 that looks like 1/2 turn. does it make a big difference?
Yea it was a mistake on my part. But at the end I ended up adjusting with valve cover off and engine running. (The way I'm used to doing it)
If you blew a 3 liter head gasket its because you severely overheated. Its going to have to be machined and maged. Even then it still could be scrap because the metal now has internal stresses that will re-warp it. Not to mention all the micro cracks overheating causes. In conclusion keep that impeller in good shape by replacing it often
I didn't see you use thread sealer on the head bolts. I have a Mercruiser 140 fill it's No1 cylinder with water over winter because previous owner had not used sealer when they replaced the head. I'd check your engine doesn't need the same. I used Loctite 567. Thanks for the vid
I did off camera, probably should have mentioned that in the video My bad.
I need to do the same thing.
Just curious how did you rotate the motor to find TDC? I’m have a heck of a time trying to do this. I can’t get to the nut with motor mount in the way.
Been a bit since I did it..... If I remember correctly I used a pry bar on the webbing of the pulley. I'm a tag figgy how I pulled it of it's been almost 2 years now.
very good
Love it
Did I miss you putting aviation sealant on the head bolt threads? I learned you have to do that the hard way.
So did I. I have a follow up video doing all this over again.
I have a bayliner 185 with the 3.0 that is spewing black water out the coolant water exhaust. Is this indicative of a blown gasket?
Yes or a crack in the head or block
@@daleofalltrades thanks for the reply! So I did some more sleuthing today. Oil on dipstick looks new, no sigh of water there. I pulled the block water drain plugs and that water was clear. I drained the driveline oil and it looked good (no water as well). Is it possible that it hadn’t been run in so long there was a ton of carbon and what not to be blown out and that’s what made the exhaust water so black and smelly? I didn’t let it run long after I discovered that for fear of not knowing what it was.
I’m planning on draining and changing the engine oil as well as driveline oil to see for sure. Gonna check compression and the plugs. Also gonna change the water impeller, no telling if that has ever been done.
One more question, I didn’t hook up water to the driveline intake until after I got it to kick over/start. I never let it run for more that just 15-20 seconds. Could that have disintegrated the impeller and caused the black? It had been sitting for at least 2 years, maybe more, so I could see that being highly likely. I didn’t know about some of these things to do on a boat that hasn’t been running for a while till now (my first boat!), was just treating it like getting and old beater car running.
@@dkhallal if the boat has been sitting a long time the water will look pretty nasty Coming out of the exhaust
i cant find part one - i am dumb. question: did you have the head worked?
I don't quite understand your question, but here is part 1
th-cam.com/video/DZ9rcs1Ei-U/w-d-xo.html
Do you do that for every push rod? Tighten until no spin and then 3/4 turn, or just the first one?
All of them
@@daleofalltrades thank you!
Also, do I have to move each cylinder to TDC before doing it or just the first cylinder, leave it there and tighten?
If u want my honest opinion just get them snug all on tdc (top dead center) and then run the engine and adjust like I do at the end of the video. That will give you the best results.
Are these gasket the same for the mercruiser 3.0 alpha one gen 2 135hp 4l?
I believe so. But I can't be 100 percent sure. A simple Google search for you specific engine should verify. The head gasket is definitely going to be the same as the block really never changed on the top side
I like it
Same specs for 2.5 right?????
Pretty sure it's the same block. Can't be fore sure but I'm sure it's close
No entiendo nada de ingles pero estoy traduciendo tus palabras,
What sand grid did you use
Any fine grit sandpaper will do
has that block been welded ?????
th-cam.com/video/p5q3fEBXSQ8/w-d-xo.html
Addressed in this video
Great job now my turn wish me luck 🙂
How did you get on 2 years later
Still running great
I should really do an update video
You didn't show the head gasket?
However excellent video
Always use new head bolts
Ma le valvole devono avere un gioco di circa 0,30 mm usando il spessimetro altrimenti se chiuse troppo bruci le valvole. Assolutamente sbagliato.
8:41 - that is not 3/4, that is 2/4
It's also not 2/4 it's 1/2.... Keen eye. Yes I'm aware. Wich is why I had clatter on 1st start. Little mistake.
@@daleofalltrades 2/4 = 1/2 😂
Just being a smart A$$. All good fun.
@@daleofalltrades 6 of one half dozen of another lol