I thought you were about to test the end of the line for leaks without turning that lever to “on” I was saying noooo lol. Nice job saved yourself like 300$
Wow! Just saw this as my head was hitting the pillow, lol. Long time no talk :). I got my gen shed built and insulated, got my interlock setup with caveats and the 100520 is in the shed with identical regulator installed...and I just realized earlier I was short one male QD to fit through the wall of the shed so the NG line would be on ginormous QD at the garage wall, ginormous QD at the in point through the external side, on/off valve at the inside wall, then a five foot pigtail with Ginormous QD onto the regulator, whew! I also need to order in the 24' 3/4" blue hose, not cheap, lol. My black pipe pokes through the brick garage wall and is capped off so I will just open it back up (valve turned off in the attic), do some air cleaning and fresh taping and pressure testing then put on the first QD. All of this thanks to your trail blazing :), and I will watch this in the morning! Thumbs up, Jonathan! :)
Good video. Is your meter behind a gate? We have hooligans in town but my meter is out in the front yard area so my valve is behind a locked gate. It has a padlock options but not sure I will bother. OK, glad I clicked on the notification before I signed off! :)
All the other black iron fittings on my house have dope, so wanted to keep with that. I like tape as it is less messy, but for a permanent install (not on a hose or the generator), I felt it was appropriate to use dope. I don't think there is any codes requiring one over the other.
hey @mrrickychuck-OklahomaUSA, I was heading off to bed myself after shooting the video and uploading. :) So glad to hear that people find my videos helpful and that it has helped people - that's a big reason why I wanted to make them. Nice setup you have! Good luck finishing it all off! Thanks for your support! :)
Every Gas Company has different requirements I will speak from the one I know. This is incorrect, the tee 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" is the gas company property they need that to service the meter and keep gas in the house. The correct way shut off the gas, cut the nipple below the tee and above the ell, keep for reference when you go to the store and get another one, remove the ell and then remove the meter swivel make sure not to lose the rubber gasket, reinstall the nipple install the tee make sure to have one side pointing to the back yard, reattach the nipple from the meter, install rubber gasket and re connect the meter, sometimes those meter swivels do no want to come off, you will need a hammer to loosen them. You did a good job with he wrenches, nice and tight.
Thanks for commenting. I have Atmos and they state that "Atmos Energy does not maintain the natural gas lines on your property beyond our meter". As far as I understand, I'm responsible for everything after the meter. "Customer-owned natural gas lines include all the piping that goes from our natural gas meter to the appliances on your property." www.atmosenergy.com/safety/home-safety/
Nope. Every thing on your side of the meter is your responsibility. Same with every other utility. Only exception I can think of is the weather head for your electric drop. Edit. I forgot to criticize your praise of his use of the wrenches. If you pay attention when he's tightening the quick disconnect he's holding the Mexican speed wrench backwards.
@@fauxque5057 As I originally stated every gas company is different and the one I know we own everything from the riser/pipe, fittings meter and to the tee, since the gas company will by pass the meter while they are working on the other side or changing out the meter. Second I commended a homeowner who was doing good on wrenches, he is doing better than some I trained. It is painful to watch somebody who has no clue how to use a wrench. I love your comment Mexican Speed Wrench, oh how we love to mock each other.
Nice that yours has a full size port on it. Mine is only a 1/2" cap, the distance I need to run I need 3/4 line, so I need to have someone come out and add my output for my generator. I am going to see how much more it would be to add ~20 feet of pipe so I can use a shorter gas hose and power cable.
Yes, it was very fortunate for me. I think if I had to change the tee myself, I might not have been so adventurous. With there being just a cap with the size I needed, it really enticed me to try to do it myself. Glad I did! :) Hope your setup goes well, thanks for commenting!
I was wondering if you were going to mention the price of the hose. I don't remember the length of mine but I certainly remember the cost. $430. for a 3/4" I.D. custom length hose. It's an oddball length because I bought exactly the length I needed. The funny thing is my brother wasn't about spending that kind of money so he bought a 3/4" decent quality garden hose, cut the ends off and has been using that. There's very little pressure in a gas line so it works just fine.
Hi Fauxque5057, thanks for commenting. That definitely works in a pinch, but I couldn't ever do that as I want everything to be properly rated for the application. I definitely will give props to your brother for thinking outside of the box! My hose was a mod podge of hoses I found from a surplus supplies store. I think it ended up being about 85 ft in length for around $200. It has been a while since I purchased it, so I don't recall.
I had to temporarily relocate my 125 gallon propane tank away from my house when I did some foundation work and put a length of garden hose spliced into the feed pipe between the house and the tank. I had cut, clean ends on both ends of the garden hose and used stainless steel, screw pipe clamps to secure each end of the hose. It easily held the 11 WC with no leaks for a few weeks, but I wouldn't leave that around permanently exposed to sunlight and other weather.
If you are homestead (aka you are the homeowner), it is legal to work on your own plumbing with the state. There may be permits you still need to obtain for your local city or county, so you should still look it up. I live outside of city limits so I was in the clear.
Hi, you might want to place a shutoff valve at connection just before the quick disconnect connector for gas generator, if that connector fails with nothing hooked up, gas will be leaking uncontrolled to outside area and have an explosive condition.
Nice video. I live in Minnesota and we almost ran out of natural gas last year when it was -20F outside. Down in Texas the infrastructure isn't designed for extreme cold so it is somewhat understandable if they run out, but in Minnesota people will die if we run out. Our homes rarely have fireplaces anymore and alot of cars and generators won't run in that cold. Since then i stocked up on propane for a propane heater. I wonder if there is a buffer tank for natural gas lines like that?
Thanks for commenting. If I ever move out to a space with a few acres of land, I want to have a 250 or 500 gallon propane tank. I don't think they do buffer tanks for natural gas - it is all vapor, it isn't stored as a liquid afaik.
Hi Jonathan. Are you mainly using the 3/4 inch gas line because of the distance between your generator and the natural gas hook up? Or is it because it allows the generator to produce more power to your home? Also, did you install a soft start for your HVAC system?
@@gregm621 hi there, please watch my other video where I hook up my generator to the inlet port. I try to explain in as much detail as possible how I came up with the 3/4 inch calculations. The short summary is if I didn't have a 3/4 inch size, it wouldn't provide the maximum amount of fuel necessary to run my generator. I also installed the soft start system on my HVAC. I have a video on that too. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks for sharing that info and thanks for liking the video. When I got the pipe dope, the label said RectorSeal T Plus 2 was good for both water and natural gas. I don't think they sold this product in yellow. rectorseal.com/plumbing/pipe-joining/rectorseal-t-plus-2-group/?queryID=8f6e74e4f5692781bb1d6eab84b43151&objectID=4213&indexName=prod_us_default_products
Hello from Houston. Good video, you made it look so simple. I just got my electrician hooked up the electrical box, i now need to have the gasline ran for my trifuel Duromax. Do you do hookup homes or know anyone who does that you can recommend?
Hi, thank you - I'm glad you appreciated the video. I am just a homeowner, I am not in any of the trades. Unfortunately, I don't have anyone to recommend. Any plumber should be able to do this type of work. Hope you can find the one you need!
Do you have to have a natural gas regulator in the flexible line between the quick connect and your generator? I have seen some videos say you do and others don't mention a need for it. Thanks for doing this video.
It depends on your gas service. If you have standard 7" water column pressure, you don't need a regulator. (About 27" WC is 1 PSI) If you're running propane which is stored 100-200PSI, you definitely need a regulator. If your utility company is running "high" pressure like 2PSI, you need one. SoCalGas does 2PSIG - www.socalgas.com/business/builder-services/elevated-pressure.
Thanks for commenting @jamesmaddox7565! I can't comment on this as different jurisdictions have different rules. I live in Texas which has pretty liberal rules for homeowners to do their own work. On top of this, I am outside of the city limits, which means I am not subject to permitting rules. You'll have to check with your local county, town, or city laws. That said, if you're hiring someone else to do this, yes they definitely should be a licensed plumber. You don't want to hire someone who doesn't know what they're doing. As far as I understand, it is illegal for general contractors to do this type of work for liability reasons. If you're doing this yourself, do the research to know exactly what you're doing, then double and triple check your work. It's a relatively simple job, but you need to educate yourself on how to safely do this before going forward with this.
My meter looks almost identical to yours but I have a 1/2" plug instead of a 3/4" plug like yours. Is it worth it to use a 1/2" to 3/4" coupler and then keep everything 3/4" to the generator or should I stick with 1/2" the entire way since it is already reduced at that one spot?
This is a pretty tricky question. How far are you running the generator from the meter? How many BTU will your generator consume? I'm told that "Any nipple or other piece that is smaller in the system and then goes larger again is to be rated from the reduced piece onward. For instance, if a 1 inch pipe runs 30' then drops to 1/2" for 6" and then someone installed 3/4" pipe and ran an additional 40 feet, the 40 feet of 3/4" pipe would all be considered 1/2". You will never get more gas through the 3/4" pipe than will pass thorough the 1/2" nipple." www.uscarburetion.com/natural-gas-chart.htm So at least for calculations and ratings, you have to assume you're basically using a 1/2" pipe throughout the whole thing even if you run it at 3/4" afterwards. General rule is you get smaller from the source, you can't really get bigger and expect to get more volume or flow out of the bigger pipes after a smaller section. Another consideration is smaller diameter piping will be cheaper. If everything can run off a 1/2", you'll be saving money. If you truly need the 3/4" diameter, you're going to have to get the 1/2" replaced with a larger 3/4" tee or something like that.
Yes, I actually was pretty surprised how simple it was after doing it. I thought it might have been more involved before I started doing the research. Thanks for commenting!
It definitely could have been just an elbow. I wanted to preserve the original functionality of the service tee. Using a tee allowed me to continue having a 3/4" service port available without having to take take off my quick disconnect setup.
Hi just wondering i see you painted the pipes you installed. i want to do the same thing. did you use regular rustolium paint? does it affect the pipe sealant?
Hi John, yes, I used regular Rustolium paint (amzn.to/3Lyrqvt). It does not affect pipe sealant. Be sure to test for leaks before painting and you should be good to go.
@@ammazabeth8765 please do research for your own jurisdiction. I unfortunately will not know what your jurisdiction allows or does not allow. As for my own jurisdiction, I live in the extra-territorial jurisdiction zone, so I was not bound to city permitting laws. In Texas, there are pretty generous laws that allow you to do work on your own home if it is your homestead and you own it. According to my research, the gas line after the meter is my own responsibility. The gas line is not owned by the utility company or the city after the meter. I am not a lawyer or an expert, this is just what I found from my research when I looked into whether I can do this. Please look into this for yourself for your specific situation.
Nice installation but your viewers need also make sure the gas meter has enough flow rate to run the generator and any other appliances you may be using during an outage. Your gas company would be the best resource to check this out.
Thanks for commenting. You're absolutely right. During an outage, I'm going to have to be choosing between AC or hot water, probably can't have both on at the same time. I consider this an acceptable tradeoff for the budget on this project and the relatively small amount of outages I get. If this was something I had to run on any regular basis though, having a proper flow rate would be important. Actually, my preference would probably be my own large propane storage tank. I could see scenarios where natural gas is also low or not available during an emergency.
I also would like to add that it is easier to tighten or loosen by pulling from the ground up instead of pushing towards the ground. Better and improved body mechanics just like the correct way to use the wrench.
How about getting corrossion by 'electrolysis' (having different metals) since brass and carbon steel will corrode eventually? Any thoughts on that? Anyone?
Electrolysis requires water to be present for any corrosion to happen. The black iron pipe will be the one that will corrode, it will be pretty important for me to spray it with paint and keep the iron protected from getting water on it and leaking due to corrosion.
It was a gas service port to begin with. By putting a tee, it can continue being a gas service port and whoever needs to hook something on it doesn't have to remove my stuff. Also, the quick adapter is heavy, I prefer the connection hanging downward and not horizontal. It probably doesn't make a difference, I don't think anyone would trip on it, but it did look neater to me at the time. Thanks for commenting!
A man has to have options... and hobbies, right? :-D Honestly, the blackouts hasn't been more than an hour or two since the big outage in 2021... but when it happens, I'm going to be ready. 😂
will make a great "Dirt Catcher" and prevent the quick connect valve from properly seating at some point in time. The plug should have been put in the downward pointing section and the Quick Disconnect on the end fitting to prevent dirt from entering the internal valve. Thats my opinion anyway.
There are specific pipe thread compounds sold for gas fitting work. I know because I had to buy some once. 'Not sure if there are specific tapes for gas lines, but there definitely are for dope. I'm going to assume Jonathan used the right stuff.
This is totally bad advice, don’t do it, even If you have an emergency, people will be doing this everywhere, someone will pay with their lives somewhere. Personally, having an unlicensed dude on the Tube working with flammable explosive gas as a neighbor is very scary. Plan ahead, have a pro do it and get the paperwork to stay out of trouble. Not a word said about gas meter compatibility or local codes, simple gas detection devices, galvanic corrosion over time, or potential lightning strikes during storms. So many issues with this, don’t even know where to start⚡️🔥😳
I installed a 14-50, 240V, 50A outlet for my EV. I used a proper GFCI, 50A breaker, same QP type markings as the Siemens panel. I used a quality, industrial, Hubbell 9450 outlet because the cheaper Leviton ones were melting in long term EV service. I cut a nice hole in my drywall near the panel for the outlet box and it ran my plug-in EV charger for 2 years. BUT then our condo association and the town started freaking out about unpermitted EV work, so I ripped out my work and called an electrician. The first one was polite, but never called me back after I waited a month. The second electrician took weeks to pull the permit and do the work, after which I was left with a nasty combination of EMC and BX on my garage walls along with a messy hack of an entrance hole into the drywall near the panel. Upon inspection, the town wanted the electrician to firestop their ugly drywall hole, which they did with metal plate and a lot of equally ugly, red, high temp silicone sealant. After the final inspection, I cleaned up the entrance hole, and sanded and painted the firestop patch white so it matched the walls. I'm going back into the service panel and back of the EVSE one day soon and retorque their connections, because I've already seen the hack job the "pro" electricians did on the outside of the job. I have a torque screwdriver and want to make sure the high-current terminal screws don't loosen in the heavy, continuous-duty service EV charging subjects them to. All this cost me $1100, except that the electrician was so inept that he never billed me past the initial $149 deposit I gave them. It's now been 3 months since they all left. Ordinarily, I'd call them and offer to pay, but my condo property manager, the town, and both electricians were such a clown show compared to my very code-compliant 14-50 outlet self-install that was more than perfectly fine, I'm keeping my mouth shut. I only use "pros" when I absolutely have to. Don't even get me started about the substandard basement floor some "pros" poured in my 2nd home that ended up out of level, and, due to insufficient pour depth, didn't properly cover and seal the adjuster threads on my lally column beam supports set into said basement floor as per the IBC, etc. Bottom line: the "pros" screw up a lot too and sometimes we homeowners know better.
You should never connect to t fitting on a gas meter that is for the natural gas utility company to connect to for meter changes or other work at meter. I am a natural gas utility company technician. Also most size one meters will not support that added load of gas consumption from a generator
dudes a troll there was nothing wrong with doing this. he could have used some gas rated teflon in junction with his pipe dope but even that's personal preference.@@Kevinw4040
I’m not a natural gas guy, but it looks like you did a lot of things incorrectly at the meter and I agree with the guy saying you may need a bigger gas meter in the winter time. You may not have enough volume to run the generator, your furnace and a hot water heater etc…
You're evidently a youtube tech, not a real one simply bc you're unaware that Jon is working on the residential side of the meter, not the utility company side. Anything after the residential lockout shut off is his responsibility. The piping from the utility company before the regulator has an additional shut off valve as that is how they replace the meter in the first place.
@@no1but24Larger meter? No. There's a calculation for BTU consumption which 3/4 supply suffices for most homes. That's a 1" or more supply line from the city reducing down to 3/4 and even 1/2 in homes. They don't run bigger out of framing concerns and the cost associated with running bigger framing lumber for larger diameter lines. Residential NG can fuel dual furnaces in many homes which have two separate HVAC systems. Btw, the guy above doesn't know how to identify which side is utility and which side is residential at the meter.
Like the trained technician that left a gas leak on my stovetop that I had to fix myself? th-cam.com/users/shortsWMNHWnaXUwg I honestly have had bad experiences with "trained technicians". If you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself has unfortunately been my experience.
@@jonathanDIYs For real. You aren't tapping into a gas main here. It's a 0.5 PSI residential connection. And it's outside! It either leaks, or it doesn't. This isn't rocket science. Btw, the white Oakley dope isn't "officially" for gas (they have a blue one that is), but everything I can find suggests it works just fine (they even say gasses up to 3,000 psi). I'm about to do the same thing, but I'll spend the 8 bucks to buy the blue stuff so it'll look like a "pro" did it.
Please delete this video or put a BIG caution not to do this as DIY. It is very dangerous to mess with the gas meter. One thing wrong the whole neighborhood can explode, you can see the pipe going underground and connect to your neighbors. In a lot of jurisdictions, it is illegal to modify the gas meter without a permit and in most cases in Houston you have to call CenterPoint to pay their tech to do it. In some other areas, you can hire a licensed plumber and they may need to get a permit if they need to run pipes. But please this video as it is dangerous, you never know what mistakes people will make. People may hold you liable.
Shut up. Do you know what happens if you drive your car into a crowd of people? Do you have a BIG caution on your car not to drive it??? Don't be a silly goose.
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Man.....👍. You have got it too Easy..... Your Gas meter already got a T- Connector. Lucky you
This will work fine, plumbers just mad that they can’t charge people $1,200 for some simple connections like this.
Great work.
I thought you were about to test the end of the line for leaks without turning that lever to “on” I was saying noooo lol. Nice job saved yourself like 300$
Hi from houston hurricane beryl
😂 me 2
hi, I hope you guys set up stuff before the outage and not saying hi to me in the dark. Stay safe guys! 😅
Same
Some of us, still with out power
@@edgar.s.merino5324 sorry to hear. That is crazy especially in the Texan heat. Hope you get your power back soon.
Nice video. If I don't get a standby generator I will go this route. Thanks for the idea
Nice work very helpful! The tip on the disconnect pointed down is interesting.
Trying to do some research since going through Beryl, thanks for the video to set up the gas line QCs.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! Just saw this as my head was hitting the pillow, lol. Long time no talk :). I got my gen shed built and insulated, got my interlock setup with caveats and the 100520 is in the shed with identical regulator installed...and I just realized earlier I was short one male QD to fit through the wall of the shed so the NG line would be on ginormous QD at the garage wall, ginormous QD at the in point through the external side, on/off valve at the inside wall, then a five foot pigtail with Ginormous QD onto the regulator, whew! I also need to order in the 24' 3/4" blue hose, not cheap, lol. My black pipe pokes through the brick garage wall and is capped off so I will just open it back up (valve turned off in the attic), do some air cleaning and fresh taping and pressure testing then put on the first QD. All of this thanks to your trail blazing :), and I will watch this in the morning! Thumbs up, Jonathan! :)
What the heck only 14 minutes??? Watching it now, lol. Thought it was one of those Gone With The Wind epics, lol.
I see you switched to dope, is this code down there?
Good video. Is your meter behind a gate? We have hooligans in town but my meter is out in the front yard area so my valve is behind a locked gate. It has a padlock options but not sure I will bother. OK, glad I clicked on the notification before I signed off! :)
All the other black iron fittings on my house have dope, so wanted to keep with that. I like tape as it is less messy, but for a permanent install (not on a hose or the generator), I felt it was appropriate to use dope. I don't think there is any codes requiring one over the other.
hey @mrrickychuck-OklahomaUSA, I was heading off to bed myself after shooting the video and uploading. :) So glad to hear that people find my videos helpful and that it has helped people - that's a big reason why I wanted to make them. Nice setup you have! Good luck finishing it all off! Thanks for your support! :)
Every Gas Company has different requirements I will speak from the one I know. This is incorrect, the tee 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" is the gas company property they need that to service the meter and keep gas in the house.
The correct way shut off the gas, cut the nipple below the tee and above the ell, keep for reference when you go to the store and get another one, remove the ell and then remove the meter swivel make sure not to lose the rubber gasket, reinstall the nipple install the tee make sure to have one side pointing to the back yard, reattach the nipple from the meter, install rubber gasket and re connect the meter, sometimes those meter swivels do no want to come off, you will need a hammer to loosen them.
You did a good job with he wrenches, nice and tight.
Thanks for commenting. I have Atmos and they state that "Atmos Energy does not maintain the natural gas lines on your property beyond our meter". As far as I understand, I'm responsible for everything after the meter.
"Customer-owned natural gas lines include all the piping that goes from our natural gas meter to the appliances on your property."
www.atmosenergy.com/safety/home-safety/
B.S. as long as he leaves the service port which he did all is good.
Nope. Every thing on your side of the meter is your responsibility. Same with every other utility. Only exception I can think of is the weather head for your electric drop.
Edit. I forgot to criticize your praise of his use of the wrenches. If you pay attention when he's tightening the quick disconnect he's holding the Mexican speed wrench backwards.
They won't touch that tee
@@fauxque5057 As I originally stated every gas company is different and the one I know we own everything from the riser/pipe, fittings meter and to the tee, since the gas company will by pass the meter while they are working on the other side or changing out the meter.
Second I commended a homeowner who was doing good on wrenches, he is doing better than some I trained. It is painful to watch somebody who has no clue how to use a wrench. I love your comment Mexican Speed Wrench, oh how we love to mock each other.
Nice that yours has a full size port on it. Mine is only a 1/2" cap, the distance I need to run I need 3/4 line, so I need to have someone come out and add my output for my generator. I am going to see how much more it would be to add ~20 feet of pipe so I can use a shorter gas hose and power cable.
Yes, it was very fortunate for me. I think if I had to change the tee myself, I might not have been so adventurous. With there being just a cap with the size I needed, it really enticed me to try to do it myself. Glad I did! :) Hope your setup goes well, thanks for commenting!
My utility company states past the meter they recommend a plumber install auxiliary connections… it’s not their responsibility past the cash register
Electric company doesn't touch your panel either
what is the puddy that you are applying to the gas pipe and how do you test for no leaks?
I plan on getting a 1 inch gas line plumbed from
my meter to near wear i will be running my genny
Where did you find a 3/4 quick connect fitting?
Will using 1/2in supplies instead of 3/4in work? My generator came with a 1/2 in quick connect, so figure just keeping it all 1/2 in.
I was wondering if you were going to mention the price of the hose. I don't remember the length of mine but I certainly remember the cost. $430. for a 3/4" I.D. custom length hose. It's an oddball length because I bought exactly the length I needed. The funny thing is my brother wasn't about spending that kind of money so he bought a 3/4" decent quality garden hose, cut the ends off and has been using that. There's very little pressure in a gas line so it works just fine.
Hi Fauxque5057, thanks for commenting. That definitely works in a pinch, but I couldn't ever do that as I want everything to be properly rated for the application. I definitely will give props to your brother for thinking outside of the box! My hose was a mod podge of hoses I found from a surplus supplies store. I think it ended up being about 85 ft in length for around $200. It has been a while since I purchased it, so I don't recall.
I had to temporarily relocate my 125 gallon propane tank away from my house when I did some foundation work and put a length of garden hose spliced into the feed pipe between the house and the tank. I had cut, clean ends on both ends of the garden hose and used stainless steel, screw pipe clamps to secure each end of the hose. It easily held the 11 WC with no leaks for a few weeks, but I wouldn't leave that around permanently exposed to sunlight and other weather.
Man, i thought in Texas you had to get a plumber do this. If not, this seems pretty straight forward DIY.
If you are homestead (aka you are the homeowner), it is legal to work on your own plumbing with the state. There may be permits you still need to obtain for your local city or county, so you should still look it up. I live outside of city limits so I was in the clear.
Well it is do incorrectly, what the Gas Company calls a Bozo No No.
Hi, you might want to place a shutoff valve at connection just before the quick disconnect connector for gas generator, if that connector fails with nothing hooked up, gas will be leaking uncontrolled to outside area and have an explosive condition.
He installed a ball valve just before the new T that holds the service port plug and the quick-disconnect. Why would he need another disconnect?
@jacobrobbins6181 Exactly, no need for a second shut off valve
did you not watch the video? He placed a ball valve before the quick disconnect....
Nice video. I live in Minnesota and we almost ran out of natural gas last year when it was -20F outside. Down in Texas the infrastructure isn't designed for extreme cold so it is somewhat understandable if they run out, but in Minnesota people will die if we run out. Our homes rarely have fireplaces anymore and alot of cars and generators won't run in that cold. Since then i stocked up on propane for a propane heater. I wonder if there is a buffer tank for natural gas lines like that?
200 people Did Die in the winter storm here in Houston a couple yrs ago!
Thanks for commenting. If I ever move out to a space with a few acres of land, I want to have a 250 or 500 gallon propane tank. I don't think they do buffer tanks for natural gas - it is all vapor, it isn't stored as a liquid afaik.
great job!
I'm going to have to change my Tee to a 3/4" to do this, mine has a 1" opening at the plug where he starts his connection 😢
you can get a reducing 1" to 3/4" or just run everything 1". Hope it worked out for you!
Hi Jonathan. Are you mainly using the 3/4 inch gas line because of the distance between your generator and the natural gas hook up? Or is it because it allows the generator to produce more power to your home? Also, did you install a soft start for your HVAC system?
@@gregm621 hi there, please watch my other video where I hook up my generator to the inlet port. I try to explain in as much detail as possible how I came up with the 3/4 inch calculations. The short summary is if I didn't have a 3/4 inch size, it wouldn't provide the maximum amount of fuel necessary to run my generator.
I also installed the soft start system on my HVAC. I have a video on that too. Thanks for commenting!
@jonathan u should have used yellow dope for the pipe white dope is for water great work love your videos 🤙
Thanks for sharing that info and thanks for liking the video. When I got the pipe dope, the label said RectorSeal T Plus 2 was good for both water and natural gas. I don't think they sold this product in yellow. rectorseal.com/plumbing/pipe-joining/rectorseal-t-plus-2-group/?queryID=8f6e74e4f5692781bb1d6eab84b43151&objectID=4213&indexName=prod_us_default_products
@@jonathanDIYs you did just fine ..... either will work.
Great video and job. Keep it up
Great job, thanks much for doing the video!
Hello from Houston. Good video, you made it look so simple. I just got my electrician hooked up the electrical box, i now need to have the gasline ran for my trifuel Duromax. Do you do hookup homes or know anyone who does that you can recommend?
Hi, thank you - I'm glad you appreciated the video.
I am just a homeowner, I am not in any of the trades. Unfortunately, I don't have anyone to recommend. Any plumber should be able to do this type of work. Hope you can find the one you need!
Do you have to have a natural gas regulator in the flexible line between the quick connect and your generator? I have seen some videos say you do and others don't mention a need for it. Thanks for doing this video.
It depends on your gas service. If you have standard 7" water column pressure, you don't need a regulator. (About 27" WC is 1 PSI) If you're running propane which is stored 100-200PSI, you definitely need a regulator. If your utility company is running "high" pressure like 2PSI, you need one. SoCalGas does 2PSIG - www.socalgas.com/business/builder-services/elevated-pressure.
Very insightful video
Does this install require a permit and licensed plumber or is diy as a homeowner normal?
Thanks for commenting @jamesmaddox7565! I can't comment on this as different jurisdictions have different rules. I live in Texas which has pretty liberal rules for homeowners to do their own work. On top of this, I am outside of the city limits, which means I am not subject to permitting rules. You'll have to check with your local county, town, or city laws.
That said, if you're hiring someone else to do this, yes they definitely should be a licensed plumber. You don't want to hire someone who doesn't know what they're doing. As far as I understand, it is illegal for general contractors to do this type of work for liability reasons.
If you're doing this yourself, do the research to know exactly what you're doing, then double and triple check your work. It's a relatively simple job, but you need to educate yourself on how to safely do this before going forward with this.
My meter looks almost identical to yours but I have a 1/2" plug instead of a 3/4" plug like yours. Is it worth it to use a 1/2" to 3/4" coupler and then keep everything 3/4" to the generator or should I stick with 1/2" the entire way since it is already reduced at that one spot?
This is a pretty tricky question. How far are you running the generator from the meter? How many BTU will your generator consume?
I'm told that "Any nipple or other piece that is smaller in the system and then goes larger again is to be rated from the reduced piece onward. For instance, if a 1 inch pipe runs 30' then drops to 1/2" for 6" and then someone installed 3/4" pipe and ran an additional 40 feet, the 40 feet of 3/4" pipe would all be considered 1/2". You will never get more gas through the 3/4" pipe than will pass thorough the 1/2" nipple."
www.uscarburetion.com/natural-gas-chart.htm
So at least for calculations and ratings, you have to assume you're basically using a 1/2" pipe throughout the whole thing even if you run it at 3/4" afterwards. General rule is you get smaller from the source, you can't really get bigger and expect to get more volume or flow out of the bigger pipes after a smaller section.
Another consideration is smaller diameter piping will be cheaper. If everything can run off a 1/2", you'll be saving money. If you truly need the 3/4" diameter, you're going to have to get the 1/2" replaced with a larger 3/4" tee or something like that.
Nice!!
Looks simple enough
Yes, I actually was pretty surprised how simple it was after doing it. I thought it might have been more involved before I started doing the research. Thanks for commenting!
What was the purpose of using a T with a plug? Why didn’t you just use an elbow after the new shutoff valve?
It definitely could have been just an elbow. I wanted to preserve the original functionality of the service tee. Using a tee allowed me to continue having a 3/4" service port available without having to take take off my quick disconnect setup.
Hi just wondering i see you painted the pipes you installed. i want to do the same thing. did you use regular rustolium paint? does it affect the pipe sealant?
Hi John, yes, I used regular Rustolium paint (amzn.to/3Lyrqvt). It does not affect pipe sealant. Be sure to test for leaks before painting and you should be good to go.
Do you need a permit to connect to the gas connection since it own by the city?
@@ammazabeth8765 please do research for your own jurisdiction. I unfortunately will not know what your jurisdiction allows or does not allow.
As for my own jurisdiction, I live in the extra-territorial jurisdiction zone, so I was not bound to city permitting laws.
In Texas, there are pretty generous laws that allow you to do work on your own home if it is your homestead and you own it.
According to my research, the gas line after the meter is my own responsibility. The gas line is not owned by the utility company or the city after the meter.
I am not a lawyer or an expert, this is just what I found from my research when I looked into whether I can do this. Please look into this for yourself for your specific situation.
Nice job, well done.
Nice installation but your viewers need also make sure the gas meter has enough flow rate to run the generator and any other appliances you may be using during an outage. Your gas company would be the best resource to check this out.
Thanks for commenting. You're absolutely right. During an outage, I'm going to have to be choosing between AC or hot water, probably can't have both on at the same time. I consider this an acceptable tradeoff for the budget on this project and the relatively small amount of outages I get. If this was something I had to run on any regular basis though, having a proper flow rate would be important. Actually, my preference would probably be my own large propane storage tank. I could see scenarios where natural gas is also low or not available during an emergency.
Good video sir.
Where can i buy the quick disconnect part? Z21.41 gas quick connector for 3/4" thread??
Check the description of the video, I listed all the supplies.
Awesome video Thank you sir!
FYI, there is a right way and a wrong way to use a Crescent Wrench. Put the leverage on the fixed jaw not on the adjustable one.
Thanks for letting me know, I'll try that next time!
@@jonathanDIYs -- overall a very good video and I learned about inside parts vs outside parts!
I also would like to add that it is easier to tighten or loosen by pulling from the ground up instead of pushing towards the ground. Better and improved body mechanics just like the correct way to use the wrench.
I think this video was about how to install quick disconnect and not how to correctly use tooks.
@@maddog3768 -- we all benefit when people share their knowledge. likely no one benefited from your comment.
thank you!
Good job...
Where are you located I need help to install this fittings
I'm in Austin, Texas, but I'm not a licensed plumber, just a home owner that likes sharing info.
Great Job!
How about getting corrossion by 'electrolysis' (having different metals) since brass and carbon steel will corrode eventually? Any thoughts on that? Anyone?
Electrolysis requires water to be present for any corrosion to happen. The black iron pipe will be the one that will corrode, it will be pretty important for me to spray it with paint and keep the iron protected from getting water on it and leaking due to corrosion.
no it's fine the way it is.
Why did you place a tee in the line with a plug?
It was a gas service port to begin with. By putting a tee, it can continue being a gas service port and whoever needs to hook something on it doesn't have to remove my stuff. Also, the quick adapter is heavy, I prefer the connection hanging downward and not horizontal. It probably doesn't make a difference, I don't think anyone would trip on it, but it did look neater to me at the time. Thanks for commenting!
did you not watch the video?
Nice job
just a fyi dont go crazy with pipe putty a little bit goes a long way if you put too much this is what happens all the extra putty makes a mess.
it could plug an orifice.
Next time, burn the gas off and don't bleed it off in your home 😮
Thanks for commenting! I did burn the gas off at the stove. The flame is difficult to see on camera and the flame went out after a few seconds.
Thanks
You must be fueling up Tanker ships with that set up bro overkill but nice job
A man has to have options... and hobbies, right? :-D Honestly, the blackouts hasn't been more than an hour or two since the big outage in 2021... but when it happens, I'm going to be ready. 😂
not really as good as professionaly done.
@@jonathanDIYs I see you made this comment 2 months ago. Were you in the Beryl-affected area? If so, I bed you ran it much longer than 1 or 2 hours!
Buy an electronic gas sensor
will make a great "Dirt Catcher" and prevent the quick connect valve from properly seating at some point in time. The plug should have been put in the downward pointing section and the Quick Disconnect on the end fitting to prevent dirt from entering the internal valve. Thats my opinion anyway.
FYI don't use pipe dope on gas you need yellow Teflon tape just for gas
Not true. Please do a few googles, and watch some videos from the professionals. Geez.
There are specific pipe thread compounds sold for gas fitting work. I know because I had to buy some once. 'Not sure if there are specific tapes for gas lines, but there definitely are for dope. I'm going to assume Jonathan used the right stuff.
I don't think you used enough pipe dope 🤣
Good work. TU . would you like some hardware with your Pipe Dope ;-)
😂 Thanks - cut me some slack - Plumbing is not my day job. 😂
Way too much pipe sealant and a messy job. Slow down do it right!
Not true. What he used had worked for decades.
This is totally bad advice, don’t do it, even If you have an emergency, people will be doing this everywhere, someone will pay with their lives somewhere. Personally, having an unlicensed dude on the Tube working with flammable explosive gas as a neighbor is very scary. Plan ahead, have a pro do it and get the paperwork to stay out of trouble. Not a word said about gas meter compatibility or local codes, simple gas detection devices, galvanic corrosion over time, or potential lightning strikes during storms. So many issues with this, don’t even know where to start⚡️🔥😳
I installed a 14-50, 240V, 50A outlet for my EV. I used a proper GFCI, 50A breaker, same QP type markings as the Siemens panel. I used a quality, industrial, Hubbell 9450 outlet because the cheaper Leviton ones were melting in long term EV service. I cut a nice hole in my drywall near the panel for the outlet box and it ran my plug-in EV charger for 2 years. BUT then our condo association and the town started freaking out about unpermitted EV work, so I ripped out my work and called an electrician. The first one was polite, but never called me back after I waited a month. The second electrician took weeks to pull the permit and do the work, after which I was left with a nasty combination of EMC and BX on my garage walls along with a messy hack of an entrance hole into the drywall near the panel. Upon inspection, the town wanted the electrician to firestop their ugly drywall hole, which they did with metal plate and a lot of equally ugly, red, high temp silicone sealant. After the final inspection, I cleaned up the entrance hole, and sanded and painted the firestop patch white so it matched the walls.
I'm going back into the service panel and back of the EVSE one day soon and retorque their connections, because I've already seen the hack job the "pro" electricians did on the outside of the job. I have a torque screwdriver and want to make sure the high-current terminal screws don't loosen in the heavy, continuous-duty service EV charging subjects them to.
All this cost me $1100, except that the electrician was so inept that he never billed me past the initial $149 deposit I gave them. It's now been 3 months since they all left. Ordinarily, I'd call them and offer to pay, but my condo property manager, the town, and both electricians were such a clown show compared to my very code-compliant 14-50 outlet self-install that was more than perfectly fine, I'm keeping my mouth shut.
I only use "pros" when I absolutely have to. Don't even get me started about the substandard basement floor some "pros" poured in my 2nd home that ended up out of level, and, due to insufficient pour depth, didn't properly cover and seal the adjuster threads on my lally column beam supports set into said basement floor as per the IBC, etc.
Bottom line: the "pros" screw up a lot too and sometimes we homeowners know better.
You should never connect to t fitting on a gas meter that is for the natural gas utility company to connect to for meter changes or other work at meter. I am a natural gas utility company technician. Also most size one meters will not support that added load of gas consumption from a generator
So where do most installers connect the gas line on stand by generators that are installed next to gas meters?
dudes a troll there was nothing wrong with doing this. he could have used some gas rated teflon in junction with his pipe dope but even that's personal preference.@@Kevinw4040
I’m not a natural gas guy, but it looks like you did a lot of things incorrectly at the meter and I agree with the guy saying you may need a bigger gas meter in the winter time. You may not have enough volume to run the generator, your furnace and a hot water heater etc…
You're evidently a youtube tech, not a real one simply bc you're unaware that Jon is working on the residential side of the meter, not the utility company side. Anything after the residential lockout shut off is his responsibility. The piping from the utility company before the regulator has an additional shut off valve as that is how they replace the meter in the first place.
@@no1but24Larger meter? No. There's a calculation for BTU consumption which 3/4 supply suffices for most homes. That's a 1" or more supply line from the city reducing down to 3/4 and even 1/2 in homes. They don't run bigger out of framing concerns and the cost associated with running bigger framing lumber for larger diameter lines. Residential NG can fuel dual furnaces in many homes which have two separate HVAC systems. Btw, the guy above doesn't know how to identify which side is utility and which side is residential at the meter.
Too easy on yours
No .. permit ... would ... ever ... allow .. you .. to do this.
Where’s your regulator? That’s a potential disaster you just created.
you didnot turn on valve therefore no leak LOL
10:30 and 11:14
Your asking for trouble, leave it to a trained technician.
Like the trained technician that left a gas leak on my stovetop that I had to fix myself?
th-cam.com/users/shortsWMNHWnaXUwg
I honestly have had bad experiences with "trained technicians". If you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself has unfortunately been my experience.
@@jonathanDIYs That's one bad technician, you should have reported them. Most states have a mandated licenced or certified technician.
@@jonathanDIYs For real. You aren't tapping into a gas main here. It's a 0.5 PSI residential connection. And it's outside! It either leaks, or it doesn't. This isn't rocket science. Btw, the white Oakley dope isn't "officially" for gas (they have a blue one that is), but everything I can find suggests it works just fine (they even say gasses up to 3,000 psi). I'm about to do the same thing, but I'll spend the 8 bucks to buy the blue stuff so it'll look like a "pro" did it.
@@jacobrobbins6181 Good luck - check for leaks and stay safe!
@@jonathanDIYs So true. They wouldn't be plumbers if they were smart.
Please delete this video or put a BIG caution not to do this as DIY. It is very dangerous to mess with the gas meter. One thing wrong the whole neighborhood can explode, you can see the pipe going underground and connect to your neighbors. In a lot of jurisdictions, it is illegal to modify the gas meter without a permit and in most cases in Houston you have to call CenterPoint to pay their tech to do it. In some other areas, you can hire a licensed plumber and they may need to get a permit if they need to run pipes. But please this video as it is dangerous, you never know what mistakes people will make. People may hold you liable.
Shut up. Do you know what happens if you drive your car into a crowd of people? Do you have a BIG caution on your car not to drive it??? Don't be a silly goose.
That’s why you hire a professional.
Yeah, to screw it up. They don't give a tiny rats ass about you, they just want all your money for nothing.
suppose to use yellow pipe dope