I only wish I had your experience and skills. But sadly I don’t. I’m retired and I like tools to help me along the way so I’m willing to give it a shot since using other methods haven’t gotten me very good results. Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat Ah, OK, not very familiar with your channel and thought you were more seasoned. The only thing I dislike about this tool is its not imperial, they could easily add that as an option. Ill blue the part, use the quill with the spindle off and bring it to a touch, then back off the knee a few thou. Then with the spindle running you can gingerly raise the knee and juuust sweep the bluing off without actually taking any material.
I don't see the point for a manual machine. You could just disengage the fine feed and use the quill handle to gently touch the part, and then zero the DRO. You could also use the Zig Zag method. Zig Zag rolling paper is 1 thou thick. Lay one on the part, start the mill and slowly lower the cutter to the part. When the mill pulls the paper, you're there.
Thanks Jeremy much appreciated. Unfortunately conventional methods have not given me the results I need. I make precision tools which require a level of precision which I am unable to achieve with the conventional methods. With this tool I am able to machine exactly from ground zero. So far this has resolved my issues.
@@LetsRogerThat OK. To each his own, but I would suggest that using one of those height gauges is actually bad for precision. You are setting your zero based on a measurement on a device that reads tenths (or less) from a device that reads half thousandths and may be repeatable to half thousandths, but is probably only accurate to 1.5 or 2 thou. Don't confuse repeatability for accuracy. Two different things. You are stacking up errors. The error in the height of the part, plus the error in the measurement of the setter, plus the error in the DRO twice over because you are effectively setting a zero from a previously set zero. The Zig Zag method, or a Dykem scrape would likely be just as accurate. Use Zig Zag paper because it is much thinner than copy paper, and is therefore less compressible. It would be better to touch off to your parallel using a feeler gauge.
Hi Roger, it’s understandable that not everyone would need or want such a thing but in my case being new at this hobby, occasionally when I need to shave off a very precise amount of material from a piece, I found the touching off method to make me unable to achieve the results I want. It may not work but then again it might. I’ve seen them in real machine shops so they must be useful for something. If it turns out not to be useful I’ll chuck it up experience and have a laugh. Not a big loss. Gilles
One idea to streamline your process. Instead of zero the DRO use the direct entry feature and set it to 2.045". Zero then should be he surface.
Thank you
What is the benefit of this vs just simply coming to a touch? 35yrs in the trade, never had an issue.
I only wish I had your experience and skills. But sadly I don’t. I’m retired and I like tools to help me along the way so I’m willing to give it a shot since using other methods haven’t gotten me very good results. Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat Ah, OK, not very familiar with your channel and thought you were more seasoned. The only thing I dislike about this tool is its not imperial, they could easily add that as an option. Ill blue the part, use the quill with the spindle off and bring it to a touch, then back off the knee a few thou. Then with the spindle running you can gingerly raise the knee and juuust sweep the bluing off without actually taking any material.
@@memyself3275 thank you. Great tip 👍🏻
What dro do you have? Thank you and great video as always.
Brand is JCGS, Model# JCS900-3AE. Gilles
Where this touch off tool work is on CNC mill
I don't see the point for a manual machine. You could just disengage the fine feed and use the quill handle to gently touch the part, and then zero the DRO. You could also use the Zig Zag method. Zig Zag rolling paper is 1 thou thick. Lay one on the part, start the mill and slowly lower the cutter to the part. When the mill pulls the paper, you're there.
Thanks Jeremy much appreciated. Unfortunately conventional methods have not given me the results I need. I make precision tools which require a level of precision which I am unable to achieve with the conventional methods. With this tool I am able to machine exactly from ground zero. So far this has resolved my issues.
@@LetsRogerThat OK. To each his own, but I would suggest that using one of those height gauges is actually bad for precision. You are setting your zero based on a measurement on a device that reads tenths (or less) from a device that reads half thousandths and may be repeatable to half thousandths, but is probably only accurate to 1.5 or 2 thou. Don't confuse repeatability for accuracy. Two different things. You are stacking up errors. The error in the height of the part, plus the error in the measurement of the setter, plus the error in the DRO twice over because you are effectively setting a zero from a previously set zero. The Zig Zag method, or a Dykem scrape would likely be just as accurate. Use Zig Zag paper because it is much thinner than copy paper, and is therefore less compressible. It would be better to touch off to your parallel using a feeler gauge.
What is the advantage of that, none.
Hi Roger, it’s understandable that not everyone would need or want such a thing but in my case being new at this hobby, occasionally when I need to shave off a very precise amount of material from a piece, I found the touching off method to make me unable to achieve the results I want. It may not work but then again it might. I’ve seen them in real machine shops so they must be useful for something. If it turns out not to be useful I’ll chuck it up experience and have a laugh. Not a big loss. Gilles