I've just installed a set of your lower & upper crashbars to my 2021 Yamaha T7. All went well. No dramas or hassles. Everything lined up & fitted. Thank you. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Best looking crash guards around and fit well above my adventure spec skid plate ( if anyone was wondering). Wow the two bolts that need to be removed for the center plate are tough to get out! No wonder u skipped that part….it would have been an hour video!
This took me a little over 3 hours to install. The easy part was doing what this video says. The difficult part was tightening everything down. 2 of the C clamps stripped on me which made things interesting. I will be contacting customer service about some replacements. Other than that, they look great and feel very solid!
There have been some comments on the difficulties with the Ver.1 cash bars. Happy to see you are on top of the any problems and addressing any issues. BTW just saw the Pol Tarres T7 hill climb video with your products in play. If you are sponsoring him, my thanks. That was an awesome video of the basically stock Tenere 700
Thanks for the positive feedback! Yes, there were some issues with a batch of the first generation crash bars but we’ve made plenty of improvements to our crash bars. Indeed, Pol Tarres chose our Tenere 700 armour and he will certainly put them to test!
Finally finished! Only took me 5 hours! Lol feels strong though! Only thing is I wish I had a smaller torque wrench that also read in NM instead of just pounds per foot. Thanks guys! Amazing product! Very happy with it!!
M12 required for REMOVAL of OEM nuts for cross brace mounting ... don't strip your bolts using the M13. He missed that. Turn the wheel to the right for better access. Also, when installing the cross brace :) You need to use a M10 on the bolt head and an M13 on the lock nut. About the M12 bolts, you can use your socket to break & back them out. It's just impossible to tighten them back with the socket once the bars are in place. You also do not HAVE to use a wheel chock, hydraulic jack, etc. Kickstand alone is fine. Just make sure you do ONE SIDE at a time with the M12 bolts so the motor doesn't move. Tech recommended this approach and also said to put some grease on the new M12s before they go in. Don't feel stupid if his instructions don't work for you ... Lastly -- BE CAREFUL with the nuts and bolts from Outback Motortek!! They are very soft. Many of them stripped during installation. Go slow
@@paulhamilton9411 thanks for your detailed feedback. As for our hardware, they’re NOT soft (8.8 grade). The hex heads are just a poor design, but we’re beginning to supply better quality hardware. Sorry for the inconvenience
Some additions that would be helpful to explain if not demonstrate: We had to remove our skid plate and if you have a euro5 bike take off the sheild on the catalytic converter. Show the OEM bolts that need to be removed to install the center brace. What are your suggested tools to use to torque? A standard torque wrench with socket clearly does not fit ouver the engine bolts in the space between the bike and the crash bar
Thanks for your feedback. The cover of the Euro 5 catalytic converter does not need to be removed. We know of plenty of customers who keep them on. There are smaller, more compact torque wrenches available. Option B is to remove the plastic panels if you want easier access to tighten the M12 bolts.
@@Outbackmotortek I would like to hear from these customers because the owners we have asked have had to remove, worp, or destroy the sheild to access the c-clamp. Taking off the plastics is much more invasive than what you've outlined in this video. You should still actively show you customers how to get the job done.
@@loekzinken4954 a smaller Torque wrench and a smaller nur. I mean smaller in overall size. On the left side i had problems because even my small wrench was to big.
I had a problem on the 2023 Tenere model with the Exhaust Plate where the lower bar has to be i had to hammer it a bit so it had a slight curve for the bar that will pass beneath
the bolts I've received for the lower crash bars look nothing like that m12x60mm and m12x55mm one is fully threaded and the other is much smaller the oem bolt
Under the main bolt that goes into the engine, do you leave the stock washer underneath or no? I think you should really provide some technical guide for these in the package... Stock washer on the right side even has a special shape with some purpose, I feel like it should stay there and not be crashbars straight onto the frame. What is the correct way? From this video it seems you don't put them? thx for an info
Installed the lower and there was no way they could "stay loose" once I threaded in the two bolts top left of the bars. The bar is under tension. Also this video skips over stuff the original does like removing the coolant reservoir and if bolts need to be removed to install the upper bracket under the headlight.
A couple of tips for you: back out the bolts a bit more. 1-2 turns maximum will solve the tension problem. You can also try a different sequence of inserting bolts. Yes, the OEM bolts must be removed from the bracket under the headlight in order to mount the bracket. Removing the coolant reservoir is a simple enough task: just remove one single bolt. It’s not a necessary step though. Just how we mount T7 crash bars.
@@Outbackmotortek So you are saying you replace the bolts on the upper center bracket with all new hardware? Also seem to missing something as the holes on the bracket don't seem to line up with the bolts on the bike. And no matter how far I back out the bolts the bars are tight and I have to push/force them to line up.
Hi, great work on those crash bars. Apparently there is still some confusion/doubts concerning fitment over the oem euro5 rally skid plate as it is slightly different from the euro4 due to the new cat installed. So, will your new crash bars (v2) fit perfectly with the euro5 skid plate? Or is there some steel trimming to be done? Thanks, keep it up!
@@Outbackmotortek thank you for replying! Any plans on a v2.1 :) to overcome this small issue? Ensuring a perfect fit over the new oem skid plate could be a decisive touch for many of us. As for me, still a fan and will definitely consider your crash bars. Cheers
@@josersofia9194 just to clarify this only affects the “Rally” edition skid plate, not the standard OEM one. We’ll not make modifications to our crash bars. Thanks for your understanding.
I can't talk down the motor mount bolt due to where the crash bars are positioned. You guys may want to look at repositioning this in a future update so that the most important bolt can be torqued down to spec.
@@loekzinken4954 I did it as a final step with the torque wrench and I did not meet any issue. I used a big one, what I use normally for my car wheels.
@@Outbackmotortek Do you still use the factory washer between the frame and crash bars on the right side engine mount? It's a special washer with a lipped edge that fits in the hole on the frame.
@@RitzSamaritano There's a minor interference. If that's a problem, then you can just press the cover with your finger and it'll bend a bit to clear the tubing. The cover is extremely flimsy and thin.
Hi lads can I ask where is your company (garage) where I could go and install everything with side bags and all ???? I’m from Ireland 🇮🇪 thanks lads ( your subscriber)
@@Outbackmotortek ooohhhhh thanks lads for this information I thought you ignored me but no thanks again lads I try to contact you by email about address in Liverpool
@@Outbackmotortek yeah , but it has an other skid plate ? i my country we have an selling point for Outback motorrek . and on the website there is an line : Important note: only confirmed to be compatible with the factory equipped Yamaha skid plate. We’ll update this note as soon as we learn of other compatible aftermarket skid plates.
I've just installed a set of your lower & upper crashbars to my 2021 Yamaha T7. All went well. No dramas or hassles. Everything lined up & fitted. Thank you. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
We really appreciate your feedback and the compliments
Best looking crash guards around and fit well above my adventure spec skid plate ( if anyone was wondering). Wow the two bolts that need to be removed for the center plate are tough to get out! No wonder u skipped that part….it would have been an hour video!
This took me a little over 3 hours to install. The easy part was doing what this video says. The difficult part was tightening everything down. 2 of the C clamps stripped on me which made things interesting. I will be contacting customer service about some replacements. Other than that, they look great and feel very solid!
There have been some comments on the difficulties with the Ver.1 cash bars.
Happy to see you are on top of the any problems and addressing any issues.
BTW just saw the Pol Tarres T7 hill climb video with your products in play.
If you are sponsoring him, my thanks. That was an awesome video of the basically stock Tenere 700
Thanks for the positive feedback! Yes, there were some issues with a batch of the first generation crash bars but we’ve made plenty of improvements to our crash bars.
Indeed, Pol Tarres chose our Tenere 700 armour and he will certainly put them to test!
Still very happy with my Version 1 setup with the original blue color!
Finally finished! Only took me 5 hours! Lol feels strong though! Only thing is I wish I had a smaller torque wrench that also read in NM instead of just pounds per foot. Thanks guys! Amazing product! Very happy with it!!
Why'd it take 5 hours? I'm about to do the install and you've got me nervous.
@@curtisbrown5254 legend has it you’re still working on it to this day.
M12 required for REMOVAL of OEM nuts for cross brace mounting ... don't strip your bolts using the M13. He missed that. Turn the wheel to the right for better access.
Also, when installing the cross brace :) You need to use a M10 on the bolt head and an M13 on the lock nut.
About the M12 bolts, you can use your socket to break & back them out. It's just impossible to tighten them back with the socket once the bars are in place. You also do not HAVE to use a wheel chock, hydraulic jack, etc. Kickstand alone is fine. Just make sure you do ONE SIDE at a time with the M12 bolts so the motor doesn't move. Tech recommended this approach and also said to put some grease on the new M12s before they go in.
Don't feel stupid if his instructions don't work for you ...
Lastly -- BE CAREFUL with the nuts and bolts from Outback Motortek!! They are very soft. Many of them stripped during installation. Go slow
@@paulhamilton9411 thanks for your detailed feedback.
As for our hardware, they’re NOT soft (8.8 grade). The hex heads are just a poor design, but we’re beginning to supply better quality hardware. Sorry for the inconvenience
Some additions that would be helpful to explain if not demonstrate:
We had to remove our skid plate and if you have a euro5 bike take off the sheild on the catalytic converter.
Show the OEM bolts that need to be removed to install the center brace.
What are your suggested tools to use to torque? A standard torque wrench with socket clearly does not fit ouver the engine bolts in the space between the bike and the crash bar
Thanks for your feedback. The cover of the Euro 5 catalytic converter does not need to be removed. We know of plenty of customers who keep them on.
There are smaller, more compact torque wrenches available. Option B is to remove the plastic panels if you want easier access to tighten the M12 bolts.
@@Outbackmotortek I would like to hear from these customers because the owners we have asked have had to remove, worp, or destroy the sheild to access the c-clamp.
Taking off the plastics is much more invasive than what you've outlined in this video. You should still actively show you customers how to get the job done.
@@MadameHoot feel free to drop us an email and in exchange we’ll forward you photos of the cover being in the Euro 5 catalytic converter.
I plan on getting o set in Canada.,would like to see the fasteners colour keyed to the crashbar colour.
Bit hard getting a torque wrench on the M12 bolts, the crash bars are blocking access
How did you manage to do this?
@@loekzinken4954 honestly I can't remember... Maybe with an extension.
@@loekzinken4954 a smaller Torque wrench and a smaller nur. I mean smaller in overall size. On the left side i had problems because even my small wrench was to big.
How did you torque down the bolts with the bars obstructing access to them, especially the engine mounting bolts?
thank you for this informative video .
When removing the 12 mm engine mounting bolts I am assuming the stock washers are no longer required behind the crash bar?
I had a problem on the 2023 Tenere model with the Exhaust Plate where the lower bar has to be i had to hammer it a bit so it had a slight curve for the bar that will pass beneath
If you install their euro 5 skidplate, you can get rid of that heat shield.
the bolts I've received for the lower crash bars look nothing like that m12x60mm and m12x55mm one is fully threaded and the other is much smaller the oem bolt
@@azzam8906 we will arrange a new hardware package. Please send us an email info at outbackmotortek dot com
Under the main bolt that goes into the engine, do you leave the stock washer underneath or no? I think you should really provide some technical guide for these in the package...
Stock washer on the right side even has a special shape with some purpose, I feel like it should stay there and not be crashbars straight onto the frame. What is the correct way? From this video it seems you don't put them?
thx for an info
Installed the lower and there was no way they could "stay loose" once I threaded in the two bolts top left of the bars. The bar is under tension. Also this video skips over stuff the original does like removing the coolant reservoir and if bolts need to be removed to install the upper bracket under the headlight.
A couple of tips for you: back out the bolts a bit more. 1-2 turns maximum will solve the tension problem. You can also try a different sequence of inserting bolts.
Yes, the OEM bolts must be removed from the bracket under the headlight in order to mount the bracket.
Removing the coolant reservoir is a simple enough task: just remove one single bolt. It’s not a necessary step though. Just how we mount T7 crash bars.
@@Outbackmotortek So you are saying you replace the bolts on the upper center bracket with all new hardware? Also seem to missing something as the holes on the bracket don't seem to line up with the bolts on the bike. And no matter how far I back out the bolts the bars are tight and I have to push/force them to line up.
@@tjrenegade9807 Please share some photos of the troubles you're having via email: info@outbackmotortek.com
Hi, great work on those crash bars.
Apparently there is still some confusion/doubts concerning fitment over the oem euro5 rally skid plate as it is slightly different from the euro4 due to the new cat installed.
So, will your new crash bars (v2) fit perfectly with the euro5 skid plate?
Or is there some steel trimming to be done?
Thanks, keep it up!
It’s possible the euro 5 OEM “Rally” skid plate may need some minor mods (cutting) in order to clear the right side lower crash bars.
@@Outbackmotortek thank you for replying!
Any plans on a v2.1 :) to overcome this small issue? Ensuring a perfect fit over the new oem skid plate could be a decisive touch for many of us.
As for me, still a fan and will definitely consider your crash bars.
Cheers
@@josersofia9194 just to clarify this only affects the “Rally” edition skid plate, not the standard OEM one. We’ll not make modifications to our crash bars. Thanks for your understanding.
nice job next up. thx jss
I can't talk down the motor mount bolt due to where the crash bars are positioned. You guys may want to look at repositioning this in a future update so that the most important bolt can be torqued down to spec.
Is there a paper list somewhere of the required tools?
The tools are shown in the video.
M12 bolt : in the video you say 75 NM but at the time you wrote 70 NM. What is right value?
It's 75Nm. Sorry for the typo.
How do you get it done though? Cant seem to fit a torque wrench+socket behind the bars
@@loekzinken4954 I did it as a final step with the torque wrench and I did not meet any issue. I used a big one, what I use normally for my car wheels.
@@Outbackmotortek Do you still use the factory washer between the frame and crash bars on the right side engine mount? It's a special washer with a lipped edge that fits in the hole on the frame.
Estas defensas son las mejores. Buen trabajo. Esos vinilos son top!!! Donde los puedo conseguir?
¡Gracias! Los vinilos son de UpShift Online www.upshiftonline.com/store/yamaha-tenere-700-retro-graphics-kit
Does it work with a high front mudguard?
We have seen dozens of photos from customers of ours who also run high fenders, so it seems they’re compatible
@@Outbackmotortek thank you for the super fast answer!
Hi, when will be the euro 5 (V2) version available for purchase?
We’ll launch sales in just a few days!
@@Outbackmotortek good to hear that, thx for responce
@@Outbackmotortek you mean a v2 version which does not require to remove (or cut) the euro 5 catalytic converter plate?
@@RitzSamaritano There's a minor interference. If that's a problem, then you can just press the cover with your finger and it'll bend a bit to clear the tubing. The cover is extremely flimsy and thin.
Hi Is it compatible with sw motech skid plate? Thanks!
Apparently so. A few customers have confirmed the compatibility.
How long did this take you on average?
Hi lads can I ask where is your company (garage) where I could go and install everything with side bags and all ???? I’m from Ireland 🇮🇪 thanks lads ( your subscriber)
They are in the US.
@@Sweetw4ter ohhhhh for f…. ck sake that a little bit to far from me 😒 but thanks
@@Sweetw4ter We’re a Canadian based company but we have dealers in the US.
@@MadMax69. our closest dealer to you is Kriega and they’re located near Liverpool.
@@Outbackmotortek ooohhhhh thanks lads for this information I thought you ignored me but no thanks again lads I try to contact you by email about address in Liverpool
Is this 2022model?
2019/Euro 4
Does this fit on the rally edition ( euro5 ) ?
Of course. It’s the same bike as the non rally version with the exception of the colour scheme
@@Outbackmotortek great , ( so 100% fit on a euro5 rally model ? ) then i make an order 😅
@@KevinVerresen of course. It’s the same bike, minus the colour.
@@Outbackmotortek yeah , but it has an other skid plate ? i my country we have an selling point for Outback motorrek . and on the website there is an line : Important note: only confirmed to be compatible with the factory equipped Yamaha skid plate. We’ll update this note as soon as we learn of other compatible aftermarket skid plates.
@@KevinVerresen our crash bars are also compatible with the OEM Yamaha Euro 5 skid plate.