One of the best installation videos of anything ever I’ve watched. Repetition of critical information again and again and very specific outlining. Love it .
Hi there I just got my bike last Sunday April second and I'm 5, 7 I'm feeling so uncomfortable on this bike I'm glad that I saw your video thank you now I have to find some help to do this job. On lowering my bike
No need to adjust the center stand, you'll have a little bit more lift, but it shouldn't be a big deal. As for the side stand, the lean will be different, and our Adjustable Side Stand is the perfect option!
Once lowered, does the rear wheel go further into the bike at full bottom out? Is there and contact with the rear tyre and plastic guard at full compression?
It is possible to make contact with the rear tire even with the OEM suspension setup which is one of reasons it's important to get the bike sag correct. Lowering the bike does not change the travel of the rear shock so the risk of bottoming out is similar.
Hello After compliamenting you on the detailed the video, i would like to ask you the following. My bike is a Honda xlv 1000 and i want to lower the rear suspention 4 -5 cm. What should be the front suspention What is the reason for the ratio yoy use and is it the same for all bikes? Thanks
For our products we've found that lowering the front roughly 50-70% of what you lower the back works well for the style of motorcycles we make parts for and tends to work well for most riders with most riding styles. This may be a good starting point for you. We'd also suggest asking what other riders have done with their xlv 1000 (we don't work with that bike) or ask the manufacturer of the part you're using.
They're a great part! We don't have any distributors in South America, so shipping can be a little expensive. Often, if you email our customer service team (info -at- altrider.com) with your locations specifics and the part you want they can often offer a better shipping price then our automated check out system. These will be in stock in a few weeks.
Curious, were you rocking the stock seat here or did you have the factory lower seat on? I've ordered the lower seat and these links and believe I'll do the -30 as I have a 29" inseam.
It is possible to do a side stand pivot, our billet aluminum design is just as strong, if not stronger than the cast aluminum side stand from Yamaha. We don’t recommend doing a side stand pivot, even with the OEM side stand.
Was looking at this as a solution for converting the t7 to super moto. 17's going on and wanted to keep decent heat tube angle. Thinking a lowering link may be the solution to this. Have to messed with lowering link and super moto wheels at all?
Thanks for your inquiry - you’re correct. You increase the mechanical advantage on the initial part of the stroke so it will feel softer, but then it does ramp up quicker and becomes a firmer spring before it bottoms out. The rule of thumb is if you lower more than 1 inch you need to investigate spring rate. But we always advise to set the height you prefer and then ride in your typical riding environment to determine if you think you need to make an adjustment. if you do, we advise contacting a spring or suspension company, Progressive is a good contact out in California.
30 mm is the maximum we recommend. Going beyond that starts to have a series of implications, including considerations with ground clearance, rear wheel travel, clearance to the rear fender, and impact to the suspension.
I just installed your kit at the 30 mm setting. I learned a couple lessons: 1. The torque on the fork tubes was about half of what's called for. That, or my 30 year old torque wrench is way off; in which case i just jacked my forks. 😮 2. The seat height is good 👍. I'm 5'7" and the lowering links were definitely needed. Question: is the 22mm fork adjustment an accurate measurement based on the lowering link 30mm hole (keeping rake to the factory setting)? Or, is the 22mm fork adjustment as far as you can go, but you actually need more? I ask because I feel more weight on the bars now, than I did prior to the change. I recognize that this is ok at speed, but it will decrease turning radius and control at slower speeds - correct? If this is correct, I'll prolly readjust to the -18mm setting. Thanks in advance.
Glad you like the lowering links! We suggest a making roughly 50% of the change you made on you rear suspension to the front suspension. So if you lower the rear suspension 30mm, a 50% change in the front would be 15mm. The factory setting is likely around 7mm from the triple top of the fork tube. Add the 15mm and that brings you to the 22mm lower limit. A local suspension shop can talk with you about possible other options if you want to explore other options or a different feel.
Nice design! What about preload? If you lower the bike you should increase preload or even use a stiffer spring am I correct? I understand behaviour of the rear suspension and bike of this +12, -18 and - 30mm have been analysed somehow? Do you have or can provide the graphs of the behaviour with linear spring? I m about to buy 80 or 85 N rear spring, and if I lower the bike with these links, maybe I should go better for the 85 if I'm in between? Thanks!
Good question, I would suggest you get the lowering link and see how it, it will give you a chance to experience the OEM spring. That might help indicate whether the 80nm vs 85nm would be better. As you know each position will change how the spring reacts. Essentially 25-30mm of lowering is the time when a new spring should be considered as the rider is already exceeding the preload. So, you very well may be better with the 85NM, but testing with the links first will be helpful. Additionally, playing with the different positions on the link will help validate your feel while riding if you need more spring tension.
The best video on this subject out there. Lots of rear lowering vids with no front end info. This is the only one you need to watch. Thanks dude.
Glad you appreciate it! We try 🏍
Excellent, systematic, clearly showing and explaining TOP !! Especially the "watchouts" to avoid damaging the bike. Thank you so much !
One of the best installation videos of anything ever I’ve watched. Repetition of critical information again and again and very specific outlining. Love it .
Thanks so much - it's great to hear our efforts appreciated!
Hi there I just got my bike last Sunday April second and I'm 5, 7 I'm feeling so uncomfortable on this bike I'm glad that I saw your video thank you now I have to find some help to do this job. On lowering my bike
That's so great to hear... Its an excellent aid in building confidence or just customizing your ride!
And the install really isn't bad - you got it 👍
Where are you? Let’s help each other . Got the same issue
Excellent video with great explanations. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Any adjustments to Yamaha center stand and side stand after lowering 30mm?
No need to adjust the center stand, you'll have a little bit more lift, but it shouldn't be a big deal.
As for the side stand, the lean will be different, and our Adjustable Side Stand is the perfect option!
Once lowered, does the rear wheel go further into the bike at full bottom out? Is there and contact with the rear tyre and plastic guard at full compression?
It is possible to make contact with the rear tire even with the OEM suspension setup which is one of reasons it's important to get the bike sag correct.
Lowering the bike does not change the travel of the rear shock so the risk of bottoming out is similar.
Awesome video with great info!! 👏🏻👏🏻
Glad you liked it!!
Hello
After compliamenting you on the detailed the video, i would like to ask you the following.
My bike is a Honda xlv 1000 and i want to lower the rear suspention 4 -5 cm.
What should be the front suspention What is the reason for the ratio yoy use and is it the same for all bikes?
Thanks
For our products we've found that lowering the front roughly 50-70% of what you lower the back works well for the style of motorcycles we make parts for and tends to work well for most riders with most riding styles.
This may be a good starting point for you. We'd also suggest asking what other riders have done with their xlv 1000 (we don't work with that bike) or ask the manufacturer of the part you're using.
Great video, hopefully you'll make a similar kit for the Kove 800x 😊
We'll pass that along to the team 👍
Hello, what about the side stand ? Not too « long » and is the bike not to straight ?
✌️ from France
It seems I asked my question too soon before the end of the video ! Sorry for that 😀
Ya - the Adjustable Side Stand is an excellent companion and highly recommended!
I was looking for the links to buy these, i need them for Perú
They're a great part! We don't have any distributors in South America, so shipping can be a little expensive. Often, if you email our customer service team (info -at- altrider.com) with your locations specifics and the part you want they can often offer a better shipping price then our automated check out system.
These will be in stock in a few weeks.
Curious, were you rocking the stock seat here or did you have the factory lower seat on? I've ordered the lower seat and these links and believe I'll do the -30 as I have a 29" inseam.
It was the factory seat - you'll love the links - they can help so much and then you can easily adjust them.
Do these fit a world raid?
We have yet to confirm it, but yes they are expected to work perfectly
Hello, is it safe to pivot the bike with that kickstand?
It is possible to do a side stand pivot, our billet aluminum design is just as strong, if not stronger than the cast aluminum side stand from Yamaha. We don’t recommend doing a side stand pivot, even with the OEM side stand.
Was looking at this as a solution for converting the t7 to super moto. 17's going on and wanted to keep decent heat tube angle. Thinking a lowering link may be the solution to this. Have to messed with lowering link and super moto wheels at all?
The lowering link would be a great addition to for a super moto and is a similar setup to how it would be done otherwise!
@@AltRiderLLC I'll do some r&d for you ;)
Does this affect the spring rate in any way ? I lowered a WR450 a few years ago and it seemed to make the rear spring very soft.
Thanks for your inquiry - you’re correct. You increase the mechanical advantage on the initial part of the stroke so it will feel softer, but then it does ramp up quicker and becomes a firmer spring before it bottoms out. The rule of thumb is if you lower more than 1 inch you need to investigate spring rate. But we always advise to set the height you prefer and then ride in your typical riding environment to determine if you think you need to make an adjustment. if you do, we advise contacting a spring or suspension company, Progressive is a good contact out in California.
@@AltRiderLLC- any recommendations for suspension shop in Chicago area ?
Sorry - we don't have any we know of, but I have to imagine you've got some good services there...
Hi all! Lowering 30 mm is the maximum recommended or is it possible to lower up to 40mm? Are there any concerns to lower 40mm? Thank you for your help
30 mm is the maximum we recommend. Going beyond that starts to have a series of implications, including considerations with ground clearance, rear wheel travel, clearance to the rear fender, and impact to the suspension.
can fit in my xtz 750 ?????
Because it's an older bike the suspension is likely to be quite different
I just installed your kit at the 30 mm setting. I learned a couple lessons:
1. The torque on the fork tubes was about half of what's called for. That, or my 30 year old torque wrench is way off; in which case i just jacked my forks. 😮
2. The seat height is good 👍. I'm 5'7" and the lowering links were definitely needed.
Question: is the 22mm fork adjustment an accurate measurement based on the lowering link 30mm hole (keeping rake to the factory setting)? Or, is the 22mm fork adjustment as far as you can go, but you actually need more?
I ask because I feel more weight on the bars now, than I did prior to the change. I recognize that this is ok at speed, but it will decrease turning radius and control at slower speeds - correct?
If this is correct, I'll prolly readjust to the -18mm setting.
Thanks in advance.
Glad you like the lowering links!
We suggest a making roughly 50% of the change you made on you rear suspension to the front suspension. So if you lower the rear suspension 30mm, a 50% change in the front would be 15mm. The factory setting is likely around 7mm from the triple top of the fork tube. Add the 15mm and that brings you to the 22mm lower limit.
A local suspension shop can talk with you about possible other options if you want to explore other options or a different feel.
Nice design! What about preload? If you lower the bike you should increase preload or even use a stiffer spring am I correct? I understand behaviour of the rear suspension and bike of this +12, -18 and - 30mm have been analysed somehow? Do you have or can provide the graphs of the behaviour with linear spring? I m about to buy 80 or 85 N rear spring, and if I lower the bike with these links, maybe I should go better for the 85 if I'm in between? Thanks!
Good question, I would suggest you get the lowering link and see how it, it will give you a chance to experience the OEM spring. That might help indicate whether the 80nm vs 85nm would be better. As you know each position will change how the spring reacts. Essentially 25-30mm of lowering is the time when a new spring should be considered as the rider is already exceeding the preload. So, you very well may be better with the 85NM, but testing with the links first will be helpful. Additionally, playing with the different positions on the link will help validate your feel while riding if you need more spring tension.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Did you get it installed and get a feel for it?
@@AltRiderLLC will do it this weekend!
How tall are you??
5ft 10in
With a 30 inch inseam
I have possibility to make my links. Can you help me with distance between holes for raising setup? Thank you!
@@AltRiderLLC thank you! 🤗🤗
How tall are you??
Jeremy is about 5' 10" (178 cm)