Thanks for this guide Cody. Tip about using grease to mark the location was helpful!!. I also used Aerocatch 120 - 2000 hood pins on my care and they have been great.
@@baltaalex3158 If your hood is steel I would assume some corrosion could happen, since my hood is aluminum I'm not that worried about galvanic corrosion since the screws are coated.
Tungsten Carbide burr bits work well with the Dremel to finish up the cutout, then a little clear coating on the bare metal/aluminum (as you said). Looks nice. Thanks! (New Sub)
Good call on the Carbide bits. They are a bit pricey but they would take care of the steel supports super well. Not so much car content on my channel these days, but thanks for the sub and comment.
Always wondered how these get fitted and finally found out, thanks for simple explanation and you've earned another subscriber. Just a thought but if you used a hole saw that was the same diameter as the curves and then join up with the dremel it may have been easier (if that makes sense)
Thanks man! The hole saw idea isn't bad but it requires a good amount of downward force and they tend to wonder around when cutting. If this was a steel hood I'd be all about it but since it's aluminum I'd probably mess it up.
@@CodyYankey just have one question. looking into the dremel tool and I'm wondering if I could get away with just a simple one or two speed or would a variable speed dremel work better?
@@forstd09able So the good part about the variable speed is you can use it for other projects that you might need to go a bit lighter with. You will probably need to maximum speed for the cutoff disk but the drum sanding bit would remove material too quickly on some material if you only had full speed. I usually try and spring for the best tool I can afford since it's something that is going to be sticking around the garage for years to come.
Nice! Yeah a simple carbide bit would make light work to cut the radii. Thanks for the video as I'm going to use these soon and always wondered how they install
ive fitted sooo many of these to rally cars. easiest and best hassle free way to cut the hood/bonnet out is holesaw drill bits the correct size at each end and then grind cut the rest out.
A friend of mine did that and the issues he had was concentric hole saw bits. They like to wobble hard in anything other than flat stock. It was a big time saver for him considering he put 4 in his hood. It also requires a hole saw set and a good one can be quite costly. I bet for composite hoods it's probably the best method though.
Cody Yankey 100% agree its easier with a holesaw on composite or carbon panels but can be temremental on curved steel 👍🏻 they look ever so nice though. great job
If this was a show car I would have taken more time to make the bottom nice. As long as it's functional and not a hazard while doing maintenance, aesthetics take a backseat.
Doesn’t have to. He made his fit very tightly. If you look at the end of the vid plus the instructions picture online; there’s a good cm to just about/right over half an inch of space left on them screws. If he drilled straight through it would have latched but his hood also was uneven so he removed them on his own account.
This one is from a company called RZ, the M2 mask. It is mostly for wood working but works well enough for light metal grinding in an open space. I can't totally recommend them as the Velcro is sorta weak and I usually have to adjust it every couple of minuets.
why were you wearing a mask? woodworkers wear masks cause the oils in woods can be irritating and also because of the potential volume of particulate matter but every metal worker i know only wears a mask if they might be dealing with lead paint or is painting with a spray gun. they will wear a full on respirator id they are welding bronze because of the tin or galvanized metal because metal fume fever is not good
seshmarls I'm not gonna have some technical response as to why but I can tell you that when I grind or cut metal without a mask I always end up with black stuff all in my noise. Whether that is the grinding disk/stone/belt or the metal itself I don't know. I do know that it doesn't make me feel safe about the health of my lungs. So I try to wear a mask and blow my nose while in the shower.
@@seshmarls I work in deburr and the amount of alluminum and steel dust floating in the air is enough to make you worry enough to wear a mast. Anything set down will have a coatinf of dust in twenty minutes
When I did my first side mines had a little play in it. Did you find that the holes were really close to the edge ? I think I cut out a little too much
Yeah, the holes were very close to the opening. It sounds like you may have drilled oversized holes for the hardware. You might be able to fix that with tightening down the screws a bit more.
I think I would have started with appropriately sized metal hole cutting bits on the top and bottom, going all the way through the hood, then connecting them with two cut lines.
If you have the tooling then it's a decent option. Just be aware that hole saw bits tend to walk around and cause a good amount of heat. This is an aluminum hood so keeping temps low is important so you don't gum up the teeth or cook your paint. I think everyone has a Dremel and hand drill.
It wasn't really needed. I thought the lower metal support was going to be used for the support bracket so the offset was to compensate for the angle the hood rested on the pins, but the lower bracket only bolts to the upper hood skin, so you have plenty of room to make adjustments if needed.
I installed some later on a friend's EF civic 90 degrees out and it looked pretty good. 45 degrees would be cool but, difficult to replicate exactly on both sides. I would need to do a template that I could flip or something to make them match. Fun idea though and probably looks great on certain cars. I don't think you could mount it in more than a single layer. The single layer of aluminum has been good enough for me, maybe a rally car or drift car would need more rigidity for panel mounts?
LOL he said "Jazz hands". I caught the reference. You know he watched the movie Bring It On with Kirsten Dunst back in the day. Don't worry Cody, I get it. We ALL watched it. I am more partial to Eliza Dushku, however. Haha!! She's still hot.
My project car I'm on currently (not on this channel) I have a target speed of 200mph. Think these will hold up or should I go for the heavier ones for the strength... It'll be holding down an FRP hood so I don't want anything weaker than the hood material
Gaming Made Simple I'd shoot for something with more strength. I've got some friends with track cars that use 3 and sometimes 4 of these plastic ones and they see maybe 140-160mph. Hood venting will also help.
NA6 driver new hood will be vented. But FRP can't use normal hood latches so I'm limited to hood pins. And these flush ones would be ideal so I don't have old style pin flopping around in the wind
What year is your miata i just started a channel with my 1990 mazda miata im gonna turbo it and run it on the track also. Where did you get those coils i want to eliminate the single coil by the firewall
Jack of all trades King of NONE ! The coils are from a GMC truck. They are called D585 coils. I've got a video on the process but you need to run an aftermarket ECU to use them.
I mumbled "toothpaste" to myself, as I've used it to mark the back of drywall for cutting out light switches and the like. Sure enough a little bearing grease or whatever was the technique he was doing.
SI RICKO Be careful with those. They look good but I've seen people at car shows and at the racetrack press them not knowing what they are, unlock them by mistake, and people have their hood fly up and hit the windshield. I might do a trunk skin with them but never a hood.
Yeah, someone said the same thing a few comments down. Didn't even think about doing it that way. I want the largest indicator I can that my hood latches are up. Having them mounted sideways might have been better than backwards, but maybe not. I've had no issues with them so far. They did fine on track at 120+ mph.
NA6 driver nice. I read on their site if installed either the two ways they suggest they have a warranty, assuming they void it if installed incorrectly. I doubt theyd ever fail even over 120.
I wouldn't say I elimated all the safety but I choose to ignore some variables for failure, sure. You got one of those pad all the corner, nerf the world, helicopter dad vibes going on my dude.
Cody Yankey no. I just forgot my hood pins and my hood folded over on my outlap. I bought these and watched install videos for the exact reason they’re designed to prevent and you chose to purposely eliminate the benefits of these.
@@dadasracecar Sucks to hear about the pins, which is why I went with these preemptively. I've done 2 track days and 1000s of street miles since the install. It's probably pure luck at this point my pins haven't unlatched themselves in VMax at Barber and AMP. I'm sure I'll lose sleep thinking about now 🙄
Thanks for this guide Cody. Tip about using grease to mark the location was helpful!!. I also used Aerocatch 120 - 2000 hood pins on my care and they have been great.
Those Aerocatches are great, I'm putting them on my next project car. Thanks for demo-ing the whole installation!
They have been great so far. No issues with them. Hope this install helped.
Can rust appear at the edges of drilled holes?
@@baltaalex3158 If your hood is steel I would assume some corrosion could happen, since my hood is aluminum I'm not that worried about galvanic corrosion since the screws are coated.
Cody Yankey thank you!
Tungsten Carbide burr bits work well with the Dremel to finish up the cutout, then a little clear coating on the bare metal/aluminum (as you said). Looks nice. Thanks! (New Sub)
Good call on the Carbide bits. They are a bit pricey but they would take care of the steel supports super well.
Not so much car content on my channel these days, but thanks for the sub and comment.
Always wondered how these get fitted and finally found out, thanks for simple explanation and you've earned another subscriber. Just a thought but if you used a hole saw that was the same diameter as the curves and then join up with the dremel it may have been easier (if that makes sense)
Thanks man! The hole saw idea isn't bad but it requires a good amount of downward force and they tend to wonder around when cutting. If this was a steel hood I'd be all about it but since it's aluminum I'd probably mess it up.
very nice job man!!! just got my hood pins today and this makes me feel at ease about doing the work myself! thanks for the educational video!
Hell yeah. Love to hear stuff like that. You got this.
@@CodyYankey just have one question. looking into the dremel tool and I'm wondering if I could get away with just a simple one or two speed or would a variable speed dremel work better?
@@forstd09able So the good part about the variable speed is you can use it for other projects that you might need to go a bit lighter with. You will probably need to maximum speed for the cutoff disk but the drum sanding bit would remove material too quickly on some material if you only had full speed. I usually try and spring for the best tool I can afford since it's something that is going to be sticking around the garage for years to come.
At last a nice video HOW TO...
NICE
Awesome, I'll try for my Mustang 💪
Nice! Yeah a simple carbide bit would make light work to cut the radii. Thanks for the video as I'm going to use these soon and always wondered how they install
Nice video!! I will try for my Mustang
ive fitted sooo many of these to rally cars. easiest and best hassle free way to cut the hood/bonnet out is holesaw drill bits the correct size at each end and then grind cut the rest out.
A friend of mine did that and the issues he had was concentric hole saw bits. They like to wobble hard in anything other than flat stock. It was a big time saver for him considering he put 4 in his hood. It also requires a hole saw set and a good one can be quite costly. I bet for composite hoods it's probably the best method though.
Cody Yankey 100% agree its easier with a holesaw on composite or carbon panels but can be temremental on curved steel 👍🏻 they look ever so nice though. great job
Lots of help thanks!
Great video.. Keep up the good work, you have given me several ideas for my '91
Great install
Great video. Been debating going that route with one of my mustang hoods.
Great video 👌💯 just wish that underneath the hood would look alot nicer that's my ocd
If this was a show car I would have taken more time to make the bottom nice. As long as it's functional and not a hazard while doing maintenance, aesthetics take a backseat.
Getting these for the sole purpose I forgot to put my pins in and my hood flew up
Sorry to hear that man. I've seen a few people do that at the track in the past.
Best vid on these, thanks
Nice man, only thing that sucks is all the metal that has to be removed below. Great video mate! Thanks!
Doesn’t have to. He made his fit very tightly. If you look at the end of the vid plus the instructions picture online; there’s a good cm to just about/right over half an inch of space left on them screws. If he drilled straight through it would have latched but his hood also was uneven so he removed them on his own account.
Very clean install 👍
Quality video, Thumbs up to you. thank you.
I compromised with a wood router and an old bit took me a little bit longer
Like a trim router? What kind of bit did you use? That's not a bad idea given this is aluminum. It just tends to "gum up" steel bits.
Watched this through your story on IG, Glad you had good success. I'm curious what mask you're wearing is, I'm not too fond of the cheap paper ones.
This one is from a company called RZ, the M2 mask. It is mostly for wood working but works well enough for light metal grinding in an open space. I can't totally recommend them as the Velcro is sorta weak and I usually have to adjust it every couple of minuets.
Fair enough, I at least have a brand name to Google and look into, appreciate it.
why were you wearing a mask? woodworkers wear masks cause the oils in woods can be irritating and also because of the potential volume of particulate matter but every metal worker i know only wears a mask if they might be dealing with lead paint or is painting with a spray gun. they will wear a full on respirator id they are welding bronze because of the tin or galvanized metal because metal fume fever is not good
seshmarls I'm not gonna have some technical response as to why but I can tell you that when I grind or cut metal without a mask I always end up with black stuff all in my noise. Whether that is the grinding disk/stone/belt or the metal itself I don't know. I do know that it doesn't make me feel safe about the health of my lungs. So I try to wear a mask and blow my nose while in the shower.
@@seshmarls I work in deburr and the amount of alluminum and steel dust floating in the air is enough to make you worry enough to wear a mast. Anything set down will have a coatinf of dust in twenty minutes
When I did my first side mines had a little play in it. Did you find that the holes were really close to the edge ? I think I cut out a little too much
Yeah, the holes were very close to the opening. It sounds like you may have drilled oversized holes for the hardware. You might be able to fix that with tightening down the screws a bit more.
I think I would have started with appropriately sized metal hole cutting bits on the top and bottom, going all the way through the hood, then connecting them with two cut lines.
If you have the tooling then it's a decent option. Just be aware that hole saw bits tend to walk around and cause a good amount of heat. This is an aluminum hood so keeping temps low is important so you don't gum up the teeth or cook your paint. I think everyone has a Dremel and hand drill.
Hey man nice vid! @ 5:50 you said you have to “mark your centre offset a little bit” can you explain that part?
It wasn't really needed. I thought the lower metal support was going to be used for the support bracket so the offset was to compensate for the angle the hood rested on the pins, but the lower bracket only bolts to the upper hood skin, so you have plenty of room to make adjustments if needed.
Cody Yankey ok gotcha! Thanks
Rather than putting them 'backward' you could have gone 45 degrees.
Wouldn't their be benefit in keeping both layers of the hood?
I installed some later on a friend's EF civic 90 degrees out and it looked pretty good. 45 degrees would be cool but, difficult to replicate exactly on both sides. I would need to do a template that I could flip or something to make them match. Fun idea though and probably looks great on certain cars.
I don't think you could mount it in more than a single layer. The single layer of aluminum has been good enough for me, maybe a rally car or drift car would need more rigidity for panel mounts?
That was the Dope good vid yo👌
Thanks i like the video helpfull not a ton of bs.
LOL he said "Jazz hands". I caught the reference. You know he watched the movie Bring It On with Kirsten Dunst back in the day. Don't worry Cody, I get it. We ALL watched it. I am more partial to Eliza Dushku, however. Haha!! She's still hot.
Very helpful video!
My project car I'm on currently (not on this channel) I have a target speed of 200mph. Think these will hold up or should I go for the heavier ones for the strength... It'll be holding down an FRP hood so I don't want anything weaker than the hood material
Gaming Made Simple I'd shoot for something with more strength. I've got some friends with track cars that use 3 and sometimes 4 of these plastic ones and they see maybe 140-160mph. Hood venting will also help.
NA6 driver new hood will be vented. But FRP can't use normal hood latches so I'm limited to hood pins. And these flush ones would be ideal so I don't have old style pin flopping around in the wind
I CONTINUOUS OPEN THE MACHINE FOR THEFT THE BATTERY TO NISSAN MKRA K11 WHAT TO DO?
hole saws work best on the ends that's what I used to do mine
MANY HELPFULS
Nice job.
Thanks!
Great video!
Thanks brother.
What year is your miata i just started a channel with my 1990 mazda miata im gonna turbo it and run it on the track also. Where did you get those coils i want to eliminate the single coil by the firewall
Jack of all trades King of NONE ! The coils are from a GMC truck. They are called D585 coils. I've got a video on the process but you need to run an aftermarket ECU to use them.
Ok thanks i plan to turbo so i will be getting a megasquirt 2 pnp soon
Great video make this look alot less intimidating to do
"kinda drinkin beer, hangin out"
Thanks for watching until the end my man!
Did your car pass inspection with these?
Like tech inspection or road inspection? We don't have road inspections in my state.
Nice
Hey I have a question can i do this to a fiber glass hood ??
Good question and I don't know for sure. I don't see why you couldn't ans if you're really concerned then try using 3 or 4 latches.
Thank you l can put them on my car now
thats awesome I was thinking about getting those for my crx
Worth it, the cost of a crx hood opening and breaking the windshield is worth the price of these over and over again!
Hole saws are the answer
I mumbled "toothpaste" to myself, as I've used it to mark the back of drywall for cutting out light switches and the like. Sure enough a little bearing grease or whatever was the technique he was doing.
What about mounting it sideways?
HARRI55555 that's not a bad idea. I honestly didn't even think about that.
All goods mate, how do you find using them? Any additional sounds they make vs the OEM latch? Secure enough security wise?
Damn people still use these this is like back to 1990 lol get with the times my man go quick latches. Good vid though
SI RICKO Be careful with those. They look good but I've seen people at car shows and at the racetrack press them not knowing what they are, unlock them by mistake, and people have their hood fly up and hit the windshield. I might do a trunk skin with them but never a hood.
Why not just install them horizontally?
Yeah, someone said the same thing a few comments down. Didn't even think about doing it that way. I want the largest indicator I can that my hood latches are up. Having them mounted sideways might have been better than backwards, but maybe not. I've had no issues with them so far. They did fine on track at 120+ mph.
NA6 driver nice. I read on their site if installed either the two ways they suggest they have a warranty, assuming they void it if installed incorrectly. I doubt theyd ever fail even over 120.
Why is there music?
If you don't install the bottom bracket you don't make all this mess just a hole.
Yeah, those would be just regular hood pins.
Looks great except you butchered the shit out of the underside of the hood.
So much talk u sir
horror to see this with the grinder
You don't use angle grinders when cutting steel? What would you use in place?
So you understand the point of these and actually chose to install them incorrectly and eliminate the safety that they were designed to provide?!?!?!
I wouldn't say I elimated all the safety but I choose to ignore some variables for failure, sure.
You got one of those pad all the corner, nerf the world, helicopter dad vibes going on my dude.
Cody Yankey no. I just forgot my hood pins and my hood folded over on my outlap. I bought these and watched install videos for the exact reason they’re designed to prevent and you chose to purposely eliminate the benefits of these.
@@dadasracecar Sucks to hear about the pins, which is why I went with these preemptively. I've done 2 track days and 1000s of street miles since the install. It's probably pure luck at this point my pins haven't unlatched themselves in VMax at Barber and AMP. I'm sure I'll lose sleep thinking about now 🙄
Cody Yankey been driving, instructing, and racing now for 9 years before forgetting the pins. First time and my hood is ruined.
Spoiler dude