Im an xc racer. Ive tried cranks from 155mm thru 175mm. I used to have some pedal strikes with 175 so i tried 155. The pedal strikes went away but my lap times got worse. I lost a lot of acceleration out of corners which cost me precious time. Im 5'5" tall and 56 years old. Im mostly a standing rider so crank length is not all that crucial to my riding. I can see where a shorter crank would work great for certain people but it definitely didnt work for me. Just my experience.......
@@mikestivers8302 Yes. Tried them with two teeth less and two teeth more. Slower than the 175's either way. I had more leverage with the 175's. When you're standing up, the big cranks seem to deliver more power and therefore more speed. If I was a seat rider, I might like the shorter cranks better. Just my opinion...
fair enough. about a year ago i got my first set of cranks that fit my inseam. 160mm, i run 160 at most. one bike has 155's and that mtb has a 28T oval @@Team81MTB
i have a 160mm and have noticed a big difference. my inseam length is 29 and that measurement said i had to use 157.7mm but nothing from manufacturers have this. so it was between 155 and 160.
In terms of hip mobility and cornering it will be the same. An XC racer may be more aware of the leverage and gearing though. Check out the comment from @team81mtb for example.
Try 5dev's crank measurement guide. Ive tried 165 170 and 175 and was most comfortable on 170, i tried there guide and it confirmed this so it was accurate for me
Same, most measurements show that I should use 175mm cranks, tried my friends bike with 165s for a couple of days and it felt like ass, so I've decided to stay on stock 175s. Pretty sure I heard my wallet making a sigh of relief from across the room too.
yeah sure I'll just go out and buy a 155mm crankset because everyone on the internet is saying so. I am 6'3 155mm cranks will probably f*k up my body and throw me out of alignment and other things. on top of that how do you fit a bike with shorter cranks? doesn't seat height go off of the angle of the leg? and everything else gets fitted off of that? it has been about 10 years since my last in depth bike fitting so I may have forgotten some details.
@@endebtedone I’m not saying everyone must get some, just talking about my experience. I’ve never had a bike fit and I don’t think many mountain bikers do, so I can’t comment on that. You will have to slightly raise your saddle though. 👍🏻
I really thought i'd be able to leave my current bike with the factory build. First, I really want to try shorter cranks. Second, any dropper that isnt PNW blows.
This topic drives me insane. My bike came with 175mm cranks as standard. I want to give shorter cranks a try... not brave enough to drop straight down to 165mm so I'm looking for 170mm, specifically Shimano XT because the rest of my groupset is Shimano. No one seems to have stock where I'm from. Even 170mm SLX is impossible to find. Its either I wait for stock (who knows for how long) or give the 165s a shot. Everytime I see a video about crank length, I immediately look at my 175mm cranks in disgust. Lol
I tend to stomp with heel around the back/middle when technical and heavy uphills then with the toe/ball for fast cadence. Makes for a little added ankle suspension for bumps. Rough terrain downhill I tend to mix it up and make a V on both pedals when seen sideways. hope that makes sense. Sometimes flex of the shoe on flat pedals varies.@@thestrengthfactory.
ahhh I might be the only one with sloppy habbits hehe. I feel like its also a good work out on the calves when moving from front to back. thanks and ride safe!@@thestrengthfactory.
I would not swap on a muscular bike that trend comes from emtb whether they admit it or not I bought a cx gen4 emtb and to test it did 100miles 12'000ft in 3 rides 3 days (cat1 or hc climbs mostly, ones I did on my XC already to compare times) I quickly learned something not said enough, ebikes do not care nor want pedaling power they want ONLY cadence, the assistance boost is dfirectly linked to cadence, you pedal under 80rpm you're not moving motor modes change nothing under 80 but if you do 80-90-100rpm then mode changes a lot it led me to order 155 just mounted them 2hrs ago couldn't test yet I had to raise both saddle and handlebar but what I'm afraid is the horizontal offset because you pedal 10mm less far away on front and 10mm less behind which modify your knees movement I will update when i can but not before a week due to weather it's freezing now
@@Fabien-kz2dl why would it be different for either wheel size? BB height varies on different bikes regardless of wheel size. Also…. There’s no absolute rules on what length is best. It’s individual. Your statement is arbitrary.
@ I don’t think so because different rear wheel sizes required different forces to be moved and the crank lenght play a role. But yes a little bit personal
Cheers - you obviously didn't watch the video. Also..... Pink Bike tech guru Seb Stott is about 6'3" and says he loves his 155 cranks! The bottom line is that we are all different and can choose whatever we want, which is what I said in the video. Have a great weekend. Ben
Your cranks are too long ? Dude you don’t even know my cranks ! How long are your femurs ? Ever chop wood with an axe ? Cut the handle in half and see if it’s easier… Shorter cranks = less leverage. Now your stem…. Oh it’s way too short, start a campaign because this “cranks too short” bandwagon has been played-out.
haha, sorry mate. I gotta get people to click it. If you watch you will see that I am a lot more balanced in my thoughts on this subject than the title may appear. Also..... I do my own firewood thank you..... with a big, long splitting maul.
@@thestrengthfactory. Glad to hear you do your own wood.. me too. I highly recommend riding Sedona with a local, never/ rarely seen trails I’d think wood (sorry had to) spur interest and clicks. I ❤️’d & sub’d
@@msm624 riding since 1995. Spent 8 years doing bike reviews and product testing for MBUK and Wideopen here in the UK. But you’re right. I don’t have a clue. 🤷🏼♀️Have a great day. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻
There's gearing and roll out to factor in and the terrain and the goal of the rider. There's a lot to be said about good old hard training to be able to be fast and efficient with traditional cranks. Nowadays I see way too many riders on e bikes but that's another topic.
Im an xc racer. Ive tried cranks from 155mm thru 175mm. I used to have some pedal strikes with 175 so i tried 155. The pedal strikes went away but my lap times got worse. I lost a lot of acceleration out of corners which cost me precious time. Im 5'5" tall and 56 years old. Im mostly a standing rider so crank length is not all that crucial to my riding. I can see where a shorter crank would work great for certain people but it definitely didnt work for me. Just my experience.......
did you change out your gearing? ie a smaller chainring?
@@mikestivers8302 Yes. Tried them with two teeth less and two teeth more. Slower than the 175's either way. I had more leverage with the 175's. When you're standing up, the big cranks seem to deliver more power and therefore more speed. If I was a seat rider, I might like the shorter cranks better. Just my opinion...
fair enough. about a year ago i got my first set of cranks that fit my inseam. 160mm, i run 160 at most. one bike has 155's and that mtb has a 28T oval @@Team81MTB
That's really interesting. Thanks mate.
Totally agree. Shorter cranks mean more effort.
Just ordered a set (165) thanks to the video for my S-works Turbo Levo
Nice... let me know how you get on.
Informative, thank you. 🙏
i have a 160mm and have noticed a big difference. my inseam length is 29 and that measurement said i had to use 157.7mm but nothing from manufacturers have this. so it was between 155 and 160.
That's cool. Where was this formula of inseam to crank length? Can you post a link please?
measure your inseam and multiply by 5.4@@thestrengthfactory.
@@ARCHONFella ok I'll do some sums. Cheers
You're pretty much okay with 160 if you're in-between size.
I would try shorter crank but my current xtr crank cost me too much 😃
Fair one, cranks are expensive
Interesting, does this apply to xc racers too? My bike has very different geometry from a trail bike like the one you are riding
In terms of hip mobility and cornering it will be the same. An XC racer may be more aware of the leverage and gearing though. Check out the comment from @team81mtb for example.
Thanks!@@thestrengthfactory.
Try 5dev's crank measurement guide. Ive tried 165 170 and 175 and was most comfortable on 170, i tried there guide and it confirmed this so it was accurate for me
@@max-eb9vi thanks. I’ll have a look
Same, most measurements show that I should use 175mm cranks, tried my friends bike with 165s for a couple of days and it felt like ass, so I've decided to stay on stock 175s. Pretty sure I heard my wallet making a sigh of relief from across the room too.
@ fair enough mate. If the short option felt worse then listen to your legs!
yeah sure I'll just go out and buy a 155mm crankset because everyone on the internet is saying so. I am 6'3 155mm cranks will probably f*k up my body and throw me out of alignment and other things. on top of that how do you fit a bike with shorter cranks? doesn't seat height go off of the angle of the leg? and everything else gets fitted off of that? it has been about 10 years since my last in depth bike fitting so I may have forgotten some details.
@@endebtedone I’m not saying everyone must get some, just talking about my experience. I’ve never had a bike fit and I don’t think many mountain bikers do, so I can’t comment on that. You will have to slightly raise your saddle though. 👍🏻
I really thought i'd be able to leave my current bike with the factory build. First, I really want to try shorter cranks. Second, any dropper that isnt PNW blows.
This topic drives me insane.
My bike came with 175mm cranks as standard. I want to give shorter cranks a try... not brave enough to drop straight down to 165mm so I'm looking for 170mm, specifically Shimano XT because the rest of my groupset is Shimano.
No one seems to have stock where I'm from. Even 170mm SLX is impossible to find.
Its either I wait for stock (who knows for how long) or give the 165s a shot.
Everytime I see a video about crank length, I immediately look at my 175mm cranks in disgust. Lol
😂😂😂 good luck on your quest!!
I think you'll be fine with 165, it's just a 10mm difference. Unless you're someone over 6 foot with insane leg length.
foot placement difference?
Not that I am aware of or that I can feel. Still axle around my mid foot area.
I tend to stomp with heel around the back/middle when technical and heavy uphills then with the toe/ball for fast cadence. Makes for a little added ankle suspension for bumps. Rough terrain downhill I tend to mix it up and make a V on both pedals when seen sideways. hope that makes sense. Sometimes flex of the shoe on flat pedals varies.@@thestrengthfactory.
@@oiyo5124 cheers mate. Despite being on flats I keep mine in the same place the whole time.
ahhh I might be the only one with sloppy habbits hehe. I feel like its also a good work out on the calves when moving from front to back. thanks and ride safe!@@thestrengthfactory.
I'd have to raise my saddle by 15mm (I ride 170mm cranks) and stack heights are already crap for taller riders.
Ah yes - bar height might need to come up for climbing. Nothing changes in isolation does it!
Pedal strikes can also damage your motor.
I would not swap on a muscular bike that trend comes from emtb whether they admit it or not I bought a cx gen4 emtb and to test it did 100miles 12'000ft in 3 rides 3 days (cat1 or hc climbs mostly, ones I did on my XC already to compare times) I quickly learned something not said enough, ebikes do not care nor want pedaling power they want ONLY cadence, the assistance boost is dfirectly linked to cadence, you pedal under 80rpm you're not moving motor modes change nothing under 80 but if you do 80-90-100rpm then mode changes a lot it led me to order 155 just mounted them 2hrs ago couldn't test yet I had to raise both saddle and handlebar but what I'm afraid is the horizontal offset because you pedal 10mm less far away on front and 10mm less behind which modify your knees movement I will update when i can but not before a week due to weather it's freezing now
Good experiment mate. It's all about finding what you like to ride.
How tall are you?
177 cm. Or just under 5’10” 👍🏻
170cm here and changed 170mm to 152mm and it was just awesome didnt regret a single bit
@@smithgeorge6858 cool. Which brand is that?
@@thestrengthfactory. Cheap Chinese crank arm
😬@@smithgeorge6858
Your audio is too low 😵
trying to get bike fit,:crank length, frame size, saddle height or bar width is like seeking medical advice on the internet.
@@michaellevine6884 you’re probably right! 😂
170 on 29 or 165 on 27,5 not less
@@Fabien-kz2dl why would it be different for either wheel size? BB height varies on different bikes regardless of wheel size. Also…. There’s no absolute rules on what length is best. It’s individual. Your statement is arbitrary.
@ I don’t think so because different rear wheel sizes required different forces to be moved and the crank lenght play a role. But yes a little bit personal
You're wrong. If you're 6'-4", 175mm is just fine.
Cheers - you obviously didn't watch the video. Also..... Pink Bike tech guru Seb Stott is about 6'3" and says he loves his 155 cranks! The bottom line is that we are all different and can choose whatever we want, which is what I said in the video. Have a great weekend. Ben
No. Your cranks are too short.
And you can go back😅
Try them and come back to me. Its better in always :) open your mind
Your cranks are too long ?
Dude you don’t even know my cranks !
How long are your femurs ?
Ever chop wood with an axe ?
Cut the handle in half and see if it’s easier…
Shorter cranks = less leverage.
Now your stem…. Oh it’s way too short, start a campaign because this “cranks too short” bandwagon has been played-out.
haha, sorry mate. I gotta get people to click it. If you watch you will see that I am a lot more balanced in my thoughts on this subject than the title may appear.
Also..... I do my own firewood thank you..... with a big, long splitting maul.
@@thestrengthfactory.
Glad to hear you do your own wood.. me too.
I highly recommend riding Sedona with a local, never/ rarely seen trails I’d think wood (sorry had to) spur interest and clicks.
I ❤️’d & sub’d
And the chain waxing vids. I tried and stopped doing that 30 years ago😅.
@@denisrogers4358 thanks dude!
@@johndef5075
If you believe this guy, you're a fool.
@@msm624 explain? Why? Have you ridden them? Why am I still riding them a year later then? I prefer them. I think they’re faster.
@@thestrengthfactory. you can think and feel all you want, but you're not faster
And exactly what is your experience and history with mtb?
Are you an experienced racer ?
@@msm624 except my Strava and race results would say different 🫣
@@msm624 riding since 1995. Spent 8 years doing bike reviews and product testing for MBUK and Wideopen here in the UK. But you’re right. I don’t have a clue. 🤷🏼♀️Have a great day. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻
This is totally rubish
@@msm624 😂😂😂👍🏻
Check this out: www.vitalmtb.com/features/shorter-cranks-are-they-you
There's gearing and roll out to factor in and the terrain and the goal of the rider.
There's a lot to be said about good old hard training to be able to be fast and efficient with traditional cranks.
Nowadays I see way too many riders on e bikes but that's another topic.
155 is too short. Try it before you buy people. 165 is the way to go
Maybe depending on the person's height.
Vital MTB just put this interesting article out. Just thought I would share it here.... www.vitalmtb.com/features/shorter-cranks-are-they-you