New VW owner. Installed many gauges in cars and a master electrician in my day job so install is not an issue. You gave me the information I was looking for regarding normal oil pressure at cruise speed and information about the oil cooler pressure relief valve. You can throw a gauge on anything but if you dont understand what your monitoring the information is useless. Great tip on using a gauge with proper range and matching the sending unit. I see young techs at work install improperly sized gauges on process equipment quite often. Always the same speech about desired reading being mid scale. I also own other american vintage cars and in forums there are always questions about installing a new gauge on the factory sending unit and the gauge is reading way to high or low.
Glad we agreed on so many points and welcome to my channel. I think that ounce you get familiar with the VW air cooled design you will grow to love it. Small hands and small tools and lower torque specs seem to help. I hope you get many smiles to the miles with your new hobby.
Hey man Kevin from Australia. I always come to your videos for knowledge . I'm designing gauges and a gauge pod at the moment and your video was a great help. Thankyou again for sharing. I haven't seen a video from you in a while I hope all is well . ✌ Peace man be safe.
Hey EZGZ, just wanted to drop a line & say thanks for the videos. I enjoy them & keep up the good work. I'm an old school air cooled guy like yourself. Mine have been sitting for almost 10 years & you videos give me the motivation to drag out my old 67 beetle last week. The motor was locked up it had been sitting so long. lol.. Broke it lose rocking it back & forth in 4th gear. Then, I adjusted the valves & cleaned carb & tank & the damn thing fired right up. Old VW's never die man. Just a tip on your zip ties cause I'm an electrician by trade so I have used more than my share over the years forsure. If you take a pair of plyers & just twist the tail off round & round they won't leave that shape razor blade edge. I hope to share some videos soon of my VDubs. Bug Out!
You have said many things that are true. I was using Diesel generator gauges that were in spec from the ship I was on. At a certain number of hours the gauges were replaced as a precaution as they did not want to have a problem with an older gauge possibly going bad. I would get permission in writing from the command and then take them to the gauge shop and have them checked for accuracy before I used them. If you look around you could find a tee fitting that is threaded for the proper metric thread for the block and then the other two were S A E. I think I have also found them with two metric and one S A E so that you could keep your stock senders with the American built gauges. You can also look for gauges that are metric threaded like Bosh.
I would appreciate a direct link because I have searched with know results. Even McMaster carr doesn't carry them. I don't want more joints with multiple fittings due to space and leak potential. Maybe we could get a machine shop to custom make them for sale :-)
01:30 exactly. And when I can find it so or that mid range is quite wide, I'd rather go with a digital gauge. Also, I'd suggest that a gaguge set to expected spectrum gives a much precise reading.
Very in-depth video, just done this myself, swapping a 10 Bar unit to an 80psi. Would you recommend putting an oil temperature sender in there too? I have, the idiot light, and the oil pressure sender from that location. I thought about the oil temp one as well. My sump sender never really moves off 50°C (its lowest setting)
I EzGz. My name is paulo and i am from portugal. Do you know what de the normal oil pressire at idle when the car is worm?? Thanks for all your videos. Best regards Paulo Bastos from Portugal
Always use a pair of pliers to grab the excess of the tie wrap, spin them until it tears loose. (it breaks the plastic just past the lock mechanism on the tie wrap) As an electrician I use them by the THOUSANDS throughout my job... they WILL cut you up lol... The "gel" you were thinking of is dielectric grease.
I'm adding a capillary style (mechanical) oil temperature gauge to my new 1600 build and I was planning on installing the temp probe in the block off plate used to block off the type 3 oil filler hole. Since this is a capillary style probe which uses the expansion of Diethyl ether as the pressure source, does the orientation of the probe tip matter? Some people put probes in the oil drain plug but those are generally electrical and orientation doesn't matter. Since Diethyl ether is a liquid and converts to a gas when heated, I was concerned that the liquid would capillary into the small diameter copper tube that goes to the gauge and generate a false reading. I was thinking of installing the probe horizontally in the block off plate and adding a "drip loop" in order to prevent the liquid Diethyl ether from entering the capillary tube. I know you don't use an oil temp gauge but since this engine is for a gyrocopter, it's a bit difficult to stop in mid air, get out and touch the dip stick to see if it's too hot. In flight engine monitoring is a must for safe flying. If you have any suggestions on the installation of the capillary sensor and it's orientation, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts. (This gyrocopter is being designed to be operated without any 12V source making it more reliable)
Michael you have asked me these weird questions about your gyro copter in the past. I really don't want to get involved and possibly give you some wrong advice that might turn into a disaster. I wish you all the best with your project. I post vids about how I keep the 4 cars that I have running. I'm sure I make some mistakes and give poor advice now and then but it's not life threatening. I remember that gyro from the movie and it totally awesome. I wonder where it ended up? I'd love to look it over with you and discover it's secrets. Take care.
Thanks for replying and I do understand your apprehension in giving me your opinion. When I'm unfamiliar with a particular subject I ask many questions of many people that I believe have more experience than I do. Many of them are truly experts while many of them are only experts on the surface and are basically blowhards. The answers I get usually ferret out the knowledgeable from the fakes. Being 62 and flying since I was 15, I've found that being given bad information or advice can be just as deadly as withholding vital information that would have proven useful. When I was told by my ground crew that my aircraft was in satisfactory condition but failed to mention the brake problem (because they didn't think it related to the aircraft's flying ability), it was a memorably experience. I had to tell them that landing and STOPPING was an integral part of flying! (unless it's a helicopter) Working on engines as you know is a learning experience. The key is to find people who are subject matter experts. Listen to them, evaluate what they have to say, and ultimately make up your own mind. Now that I know you have a reluctance in giving your opinion on subjects not strictly related to dune buggies or sand rails, I shall refrain from making you uneasy with strange questions. ;-) Have a great day and keep up the videos. I really do enjoy them during the lockdown!
What if your engine has no oil cooler and no over heating problems. Then higher pressure good right? My 2006 Corolla has a 1ZZ-FE engine and the car has 300,000km on it and as far as I know all original components. I want to know if the bottom end bearings are wearing out because if the oil pressure is low I'd rather replace the bearings before they damage the crank.
For crying out loud!!!!! At 300k I think it did it's job and a rebuild would be a nice thing to do. Usually the engine like that outlasted the body. I really don't know what to tell ya but thanks for watching and commenting.
Tudo bem?! Por favor, no seu VW: 1. qual a pressão do óleo na primeira partida do dia (motor frio) em marcha lenta? 2. qual a pressão do óleo do motor em marcha lenta após o motor estar quente? 3. qual a pressão do óleo do motor em velocidade de cruzeiro (50~60 mph)? 4. Estou usando 20w50 e você? Saudações do Brasil 😊
+The Open Air Garage If you every take apart and engine you will be able to see all the passages and relief holes. That's what it took for me to see the light.
+Mike Kelly Ashcroft is an industry standard. Grainger stocks them. I would choose a glycerin filled gauge for test purposes. McMaster-Carr has some nice stuff as well.
+TheEZGZ I use the Ashcroft glycerin filled gauges on the engine start stand. Being we use them on the ammonia systems I have ample supply. LOL Thanks for the McMaster-Carr tip.
Hey man ! I have a oil sending unit that looks like your new pressure unit that you put on the T . Mine has 2 connections .. 1 is hooked to my wire for the oil light . Other one is empty .. could it be that i could just hookup a pressure gauge on the empty one ? Thx
Nope, I see no need for one unless you just like to have gauges for the Kool Factor. If I build an engine I think might run hot I use one of the those engine savor oil temp dipsticks. Those are a PITA as well. Ounce I establish in my mind what condition makes that engine hot I simply avoid that situation. Then replace the stock dipstick. I don't like to drive to long on the temp limit. Heat kill's VW engines.
@@TheEZGZ Thanks for the feedback EZ. I put a cht on #3 but after reading so many posts and articles I might just start ignoring it. Everywhere from the gauges arnt accurate to there isn't anything you can do about it anyway. My oil and motor stay cool and it cools very quickly when it's powered off.
Great job and video, can you tell me what is the values on oil pressure gauge when the oil is hot and engine on idle?! I guess not the same when the oil is cold!?
Thanks for the support. I have made to many changes to my oil system to use it for a comparison. The VW factory Bendtley manual calls out that with the oil at approx. 158 temp the oil pressure should be not more than 128 PSI and if it is below 20 PSI you should look for problems or consider rebuilding. I believe that is with straight 30 weight oil. So you can take it from there. The oil warning light comes on at about 6 or 7 psi. IMHO if your engine is old and still runs good and doesn't smoke don't worry about it. On a hot day cruising at 65 MPH I am around 20psi and I am not happy about that. May go in for a peek soon.
thank you for the answer, when the oil is hot and I am cruising at 50 mph ( 3000rpms ) oil pressure is +/- 30 psi. Of course with higher revs oil pressure scale increase.
I prefer the electric gauge but the quality is a major factor..I bought what I thought was middle of the road SAAS Amp.Temp.oil pressure gauges and they work great except for the oil gauge..The first one failed and I messed with a second one (freebie) and that one has started to go weird things..I can see me getting another set but not the brand for sure but they will be electric too..
+ZIGgassedUP I hear you. You get what you pay for. This gauge was $40 and the sender was $38 so we will have to see. Not sure if they are available where you are but I was always a fan of SW www.stewartwarner.com/ Finest automotive instruments on the planet. IMHO
Your comment about the isolation by rubber mounting brackets is only partially complete. If you use regular wire to the chassis from the engine you can transmit RF interference for the electronics that you have or might have added. You should always look for the braided flat ground straps to reduce or eliminate the RF problems (like alternator or generator whine in the radio etc....).
Very informative video! I appreciate the details. I would like to see a video similar to this except for a temperature gauge, both air temperature and oil temperature along with the maximum safe operating temperature. Thanks for all your videos!
+Allan Wideman What's to show? Same vid. Different gauge? Normal will vary according to ?????? What ever any gauge reads your just looking for a change from "YOUR" normal. Learn to speak VW and your engine will talk to ou. Watching gauges is like watching paint dry IMHO. Use a infrared temp gun and get several temp measurements from various places. You will soon establish your normal. Oil temp dipstick is good for danger warning. I have a vid on that. Use the search feature. Thanks for your interest. Have G day
+TheEZGZ There is a lot to show that I would like to see. Such as: Where is the best place to put the sensor for the oil temperature, where is the best place to place the sensor for the head temperature. How do you mount the sensors (drill and tap the case, drill and tap the drain plug, etc)?? Back in 1966 I used a gauge that was controlled by a bulb and cap line and replaced the oil dip stick. It was a pain to install and a pain to check the oil (as you pointed out in your video about the Gene Berg dip stick) but it worked well. It appears these are no longer available. When pulling a trailer behind a 1600 single port on a hot day watching the temp gauge is not like watching paint dry. I like a gauge much better than the Berg system.
+TheEZGZ Thanks for the link to the video! Very informative as is the one you made. I like the fact that the dip stick temperature sensor does not require running another wire to the front. I plan to order one of these items.
Nice video . I notice the Suntune 2 tach . I have one myself , it has red blue black and green wiring. Is there anyway you can get me wiring diagram for connections? Thanks
Take it apart and repair the damage orrrr watch Mustie1 channel. He has vids up that he has brought seized engines back to life. Just realize that even if you do get it running it won't last long. Probably needed a rebuild before it finally seized
+vw64manyrd As we discussed on my visit. Always risky to make these kinds of vids. Ether someone has a prob or you forget something. At least I tried and mine works :-)
I don't put much faith in the accuracy but it will give you a base for comparison. My Toyota truck has a line with a few marks on it to help you see whats normal.
@@rickallen8158 It is a general statement as many things effect oil pressure, The viscosity of the oil, the temperature of the oil, the tolerances inside the engine, the oil relief valve, the oil pump itself. Every engine will be different and as it wears out the oil pressure will be less and less.
I'm sorry, but that 10 PSI per 1k RPM is a minimum. Its not really a bad thing to have to much oil pressure. It's much worse to have too low of oil pressure. 20 PSI at idle is good but your engine is pretty worn out at 25 PSI if you are using manufacture suggested oil weight. Usually you want between 40 to 60 PSI at cruise.
+malkucken When all is said and done, Wire, gauge, sender and connectors. Plan on a hundred bucks. Reminds me of my Harley. Those things run on hundred dollar bills.
Thanks easy GZY now I have an understanding I have the same set up of all three gauges oil temperature, Alternator gauge, and oil psi gauge .
New VW owner. Installed many gauges in cars and a master electrician in my day job so install is not an issue. You gave me the information I was looking for regarding normal oil pressure at cruise speed and information about the oil cooler pressure relief valve. You can throw a gauge on anything but if you dont understand what your monitoring the information is useless. Great tip on using a gauge with proper range and matching the sending unit. I see young techs at work install improperly sized gauges on process equipment quite often. Always the same speech about desired reading being mid scale. I also own other american vintage cars and in forums there are always questions about installing a new gauge on the factory sending unit and the gauge is reading way to high or low.
Glad we agreed on so many points and welcome to my channel. I think that ounce you get familiar with the VW air cooled design you will grow to love it. Small hands and small tools and lower torque specs seem to help. I hope you get many smiles to the miles with your new hobby.
Hey man Kevin from Australia.
I always come to your videos for knowledge . I'm designing gauges and a gauge pod at the moment and your video was a great help.
Thankyou again for sharing.
I haven't seen a video from you in a while I hope all is well .
✌ Peace man be safe.
Very good video. We appreciate the thorough process. Thank you.✌️
Hey EZGZ, just wanted to drop a line & say thanks for the videos. I enjoy them & keep up the good work. I'm an old school air cooled guy like yourself. Mine have been sitting for almost 10 years & you videos give me the motivation to drag out my old 67 beetle last week. The motor was locked up it had been sitting so long. lol.. Broke it lose rocking it back & forth in 4th gear. Then, I adjusted the valves & cleaned carb & tank & the damn thing fired right up. Old VW's never die man. Just a tip on your zip ties cause I'm an electrician by trade so I have used more than my share over the years forsure. If you take a pair of plyers & just twist the tail off round & round they won't leave that shape razor blade edge. I hope to share some videos soon of my VDubs. Bug Out!
Thanks for the zip tie trick. I will give it a try. Good luck with your project
You have said many things that are true. I was using Diesel generator gauges that were in spec from the ship I was on. At a certain number of hours the gauges were replaced as a precaution as they did not want to have a problem with an older gauge possibly going bad. I would get permission in writing from the command and then take them to the gauge shop and have them checked for accuracy before I used them.
If you look around you could find a tee fitting that is threaded for the proper metric thread for the block and then the other two were S A E. I think I have also found them with two metric and one S A E so that you could keep your stock senders with the American built gauges. You can also look for gauges that are metric threaded like Bosh.
I would appreciate a direct link because I have searched with know results. Even McMaster carr doesn't carry them. I don't want more joints with multiple fittings due to space and leak potential. Maybe we could get a machine shop to custom make them for sale :-)
Working under the dash , upside down, tight spaces . sharp metal, been there, knock on wood, LOL Thanks I learned something today. Thanks EZ.
+MrWillis5719 and just when you get comfortable the light goes out or the cell phone goes off.... Always something. Take care Steve
Thought that only happened to me.
01:30 exactly. And when I can find it so or that mid range is quite wide, I'd rather go with a digital gauge. Also, I'd suggest that a gaguge set to expected spectrum gives a much precise reading.
For example, the scale on most EGT gauges is massive. From 300°C to 1300°C 🙄
On these EGT gauges, top side (above certain temp) is simply useless and its almost impossible to know whether its working under 300°C...
And what's even more important, it's quite hard to have a quick and precise reading on those
Thanks
Great Video!!! I appreciate the time you took to describe everything!
It's called Dielectric grease.. Thanks for the video...
Very in-depth video, just done this myself, swapping a 10 Bar unit to an 80psi.
Would you recommend putting an oil temperature sender in there too? I have, the idiot light, and the oil pressure sender from that location. I thought about the oil temp one as well. My sump sender never really moves off 50°C (its lowest setting)
I EzGz. My name is paulo and i am from portugal. Do you know what de the normal oil pressire at idle when the car is worm?? Thanks for all your videos. Best regards Paulo Bastos from Portugal
Always use a pair of pliers to grab the excess of the tie wrap, spin them until it tears loose. (it breaks the plastic just past the lock mechanism on the tie wrap) As an electrician I use them by the THOUSANDS throughout my job... they WILL cut you up lol...
The "gel" you were thinking of is dielectric grease.
I will give that a try. Thanks!
I'm adding a capillary style (mechanical) oil temperature gauge to my new 1600 build and I was planning on installing the temp probe in the block off plate used to block off the type 3 oil filler hole. Since this is a capillary style probe which uses the expansion of Diethyl ether as the pressure source, does the orientation of the probe tip matter? Some people put probes in the oil drain plug but those are generally electrical and orientation doesn't matter. Since Diethyl ether is a liquid and converts to a gas when heated, I was concerned that the liquid would capillary into the small diameter copper tube that goes to the gauge and generate a false reading. I was thinking of installing the probe horizontally in the block off plate and adding a "drip loop" in order to prevent the liquid Diethyl ether from entering the capillary tube. I know you don't use an oil temp gauge but since this engine is for a gyrocopter, it's a bit difficult to stop in mid air, get out and touch the dip stick to see if it's too hot. In flight engine monitoring is a must for safe flying. If you have any suggestions on the installation of the capillary sensor and it's orientation, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts. (This gyrocopter is being designed to be operated without any 12V source making it more reliable)
Michael you have asked me these weird questions about your gyro copter in the past. I really don't want to get involved and possibly give you some wrong advice that might turn into a disaster. I wish you all the best with your project. I post vids about how I keep the 4 cars that I have running. I'm sure I make some mistakes and give poor advice now and then but it's not life threatening. I remember that gyro from the movie and it totally awesome. I wonder where it ended up? I'd love to look it over with you and discover it's secrets. Take care.
Thanks for replying and I do understand your apprehension in giving me your opinion. When I'm unfamiliar with a
particular subject I ask many questions of many people that I believe have more experience than I do. Many of them are truly experts while many of them are only experts on the surface and are basically blowhards. The answers I
get usually ferret out the knowledgeable from the fakes. Being 62 and flying since I was 15, I've found that being
given bad information or advice can be just as deadly as withholding vital information that would have proven useful.
When I was told by my ground crew that my aircraft was in satisfactory condition but failed to mention the brake problem (because they didn't think it related to the aircraft's flying ability), it was a memorably experience. I had to tell them that landing and STOPPING was an integral part of flying! (unless it's a helicopter) Working on engines as you know is a learning experience. The key is to find people who are subject matter experts. Listen to them,
evaluate what they have to say, and ultimately make up your own mind. Now that I know you have a reluctance in giving your opinion on subjects not strictly related to dune buggies or sand rails, I shall refrain from making you uneasy with strange questions. ;-)
Have a great day and keep up the videos. I really do enjoy them during the lockdown!
I think I may have unintentionally given you a new TH-cam handle. UNEZ GZ. Sorry ;-(
like your attention to detail. Suggest to twist off rather than cutting the tie wrap end, it lessens the sharp edge.
Never tried that. Thought it would weaken the lock. I'll give it a test. Thanks!
What if your engine has no oil cooler and no over heating problems. Then higher pressure good right? My 2006 Corolla has a 1ZZ-FE engine and the car has 300,000km on it and as far as I know all original components. I want to know if the bottom end bearings are wearing out because if the oil pressure is low I'd rather replace the bearings before they damage the crank.
For crying out loud!!!!! At 300k I think it did it's job and a rebuild would be a nice thing to do. Usually the engine like that outlasted the body.
I really don't know what to tell ya but thanks for watching and commenting.
Tudo bem?!
Por favor, no seu VW:
1. qual a pressão do óleo na primeira partida do dia (motor frio) em marcha lenta?
2. qual a pressão do óleo do motor em marcha lenta após o motor estar quente?
3. qual a pressão do óleo do motor em velocidade de cruzeiro (50~60 mph)?
4. Estou usando 20w50 e você?
Saudações do Brasil 😊
The book calls out 28 PSI at 2,500 RPM with warm 30w oil. Anything less than that and it's time to rebuild or have a look inside.
Amazing video, thanks! Are you able to pass on those VDO part numbers? I need oil pressure in my 1976 gold, also love the brass fitting!
Only have the NAPA part # Gauge is 701-2135 sender is 701-1827 Good Luck with your project.
Brass has Class :-)
Thank you sir it is a video full of useful info not just for VW's so very much appreciated.
+MidwestMotoRider Glad to share it. Got to get all this stuff out of my head so I can make room for some Fishing and hunting memories. hehehe
+TheEZGZ Oh I like that idea! I may need to try that also.. :)
will adding a bigger oil reserve cause problems, because of the extra 1.5 quart extra??
Nope!
Nit Pick, LOL Good info.once again. You actually helped me wrap my head around the bypass spring setup.
+The Open Air Garage If you every take apart and engine you will be able to see all the passages and relief holes. That's what it took for me to see the light.
What do you think of using Ashcroft gauges? We use them in the ammonia industry and they seem to work well and be robust. Expensive yes.
+Mike Kelly Ashcroft is an industry standard. Grainger stocks them. I would choose a glycerin filled gauge for test purposes. McMaster-Carr has some nice stuff as well.
+TheEZGZ I use the Ashcroft glycerin filled gauges on the engine start stand. Being we use them on the ammonia systems I have ample supply. LOL Thanks for the McMaster-Carr tip.
+Mike Kelly Yeah, I was just talking with your boss the other day. e He noticed that as well. LOL
+TheEZGZ
LOL!!
Hey man ! I have a oil sending unit that looks like your new pressure unit that you put on the T . Mine has 2 connections .. 1 is hooked to my wire for the oil light . Other one is empty .. could it be that i could just hookup a pressure gauge on the empty one ? Thx
carcraftstore.com/vdooilpressuresender80or150psi.aspx
@@TheEZGZ thx bud !!
Hi EZ
do you have any videos on a cylinder head temperature, CHT gauges?
Thanks for the info and videos.
Nope, I see no need for one unless you just like to have gauges for the Kool Factor. If I build an engine I think might run hot I use one of the those engine savor oil temp dipsticks. Those are a PITA as well. Ounce I establish in my mind what condition makes that engine hot I simply avoid that situation. Then replace the stock dipstick. I don't like to drive to long on the temp limit. Heat kill's VW engines.
@@TheEZGZ
Thanks for the feedback EZ.
I put a cht on #3 but after reading so many posts and articles I might just start ignoring it. Everywhere from the gauges arnt accurate to there isn't anything you can do about it anyway.
My oil and motor stay cool and it cools very quickly when it's powered off.
thanks EZ hey what would you run in the way of oil for your engine
what will heavy synthetic do
Great job and video, can you tell me what is the values on oil pressure gauge when the oil is hot and engine on idle?! I guess not the same when the oil is cold!?
Thanks for the support. I have made to many changes to my oil system to use it for a comparison. The VW factory Bendtley manual calls out that with the oil at approx. 158 temp the oil pressure should be not more than 128 PSI and if it is below 20 PSI you should look for problems or consider rebuilding. I believe that is with straight 30 weight oil. So you can take it from there. The oil warning light comes on at about 6 or 7 psi. IMHO if your engine is old and still runs good and doesn't smoke don't worry about it. On a hot day cruising at 65 MPH I am around 20psi and I am not happy about that. May go in for a peek soon.
thank you for the answer, when the oil is hot and I am cruising at 50 mph ( 3000rpms ) oil pressure is +/- 30 psi. Of course with higher revs oil pressure scale increase.
I prefer the electric gauge but the quality is a major factor..I bought what I thought was middle of the road SAAS Amp.Temp.oil pressure gauges and they work great except for the oil gauge..The first one failed and I messed with a second one (freebie) and that one has started to go weird things..I can see me getting another set but not the brand for sure but they will be electric too..
+ZIGgassedUP I hear you. You get what you pay for. This gauge was $40 and the sender was $38 so we will have to see. Not sure if they are available where you are but I was always a fan of SW www.stewartwarner.com/ Finest automotive instruments on the planet. IMHO
Your comment about the isolation by rubber mounting brackets is only partially complete. If you use regular wire to the chassis from the engine you can transmit RF interference for the electronics that you have or might have added. You should always look for the braided flat ground straps to reduce or eliminate the RF problems (like alternator or generator whine in the radio etc....).
I hadn't thought of that. Thank you. I think I have some shielded wire around here. I will have to give that a try.
Very informative video! I appreciate the details. I would like to see a video similar to this except for a temperature gauge, both air temperature and oil temperature along with the maximum safe operating temperature. Thanks for all your videos!
+Allan Wideman What's to show? Same vid. Different gauge? Normal will vary according to ?????? What ever any gauge reads your just looking for a change from "YOUR" normal. Learn to speak VW and your engine will talk to ou. Watching gauges is like watching paint dry IMHO. Use a infrared temp gun and get several temp measurements from various places. You will soon establish your normal. Oil temp dipstick is good for danger warning. I have a vid on that. Use the search feature. Thanks for your interest. Have G day
+TheEZGZ There is a lot to show that I would like to see. Such as: Where is the best place to put the sensor for the oil temperature, where is the best place to place the sensor for the head temperature. How do you mount the sensors (drill and tap the case, drill and tap the drain plug, etc)?? Back in 1966 I used a gauge that was controlled by a bulb and cap line and replaced the oil dip stick. It was a pain to install and a pain to check the oil (as you pointed out in your video about the Gene Berg dip stick) but it worked well. It appears these are no longer available. When pulling a trailer behind a 1600 single port on a hot day watching the temp gauge is not like watching paint dry. I like a gauge much better than the Berg system.
+Allan Wideman www.savemybug.com/
+TheEZGZ Thanks for the link to the video! Very informative as is the one you made. I like the fact that the dip stick temperature sensor does not require running another wire to the front. I plan to order one of these items.
Nice video . I notice the Suntune 2 tach . I have one myself , it has red blue black and green wiring. Is there anyway you can get me wiring diagram for connections? Thanks
since this vid my tach died and I threw it away. Don't miss it. Buy something new. Most tachs use the same color code
How to get a ‘69 VW beetle rolling again if the engine is seized?
Take it apart and repair the damage orrrr watch Mustie1 channel. He has vids up that he has brought seized engines back to life. Just realize that even if you do get it running it won't last long. Probably needed a rebuild before it finally seized
is that a bike inertube on the wing nuts on the breather to keep it from coming lose? nice!
yep
Great video EzGz! Looking forward to watching your trip to mt helens. Have a good'nnn
+geargriden19 I was on it but couldn't find it????
Great video. Thanks for the tips and installation!
+vw64manyrd As we discussed on my visit. Always risky to make these kinds of vids. Ether someone has a prob or you forget something. At least I tried and mine works :-)
Where would you recommend me putting a oil temperature sender in my 71 Super Beetle?
I have no idea. I don't use one. The old dipstick temp warning thing works good but is a PITA You can generally tell when your engine feels to hot
This helped me a lot. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! I appreciate the comment and support.
Would anyone know how to install a oil pressure gauge on a 2002 Toyota Camry!?
joshua pressley yeh I do if you got them green backs
Ive Got a 80 psi Guage Seems to work good
I don't put much faith in the accuracy but it will give you a base for comparison. My Toyota truck has a line with a few marks on it to help you see whats normal.
@@TheEZGZ Yeah Forshore , Toyota hey there good trucks last forever , Strange world Isn:t it LOL
Why do you say when cruising at 80 mph you don't want that hi-pressure, you only want 25--28 psi?,,,
No, You want 10 PSI for every 1k RPM of engine revolution. The VW book says if you have less than 28 psi at 2500 RPM your engine needs to be rebuilt
Is that a general rule, 10 PSI for every 1k RPM? would that apply to older cars like my '62 and '64 ford and buick v8s?,,,
@@rickallen8158 It is a general statement as many things effect oil pressure, The viscosity of the oil, the temperature of the oil, the tolerances inside the engine, the oil relief valve, the oil pump itself. Every engine will be different and as it wears out the oil pressure will be less and less.
I'm sorry, but that 10 PSI per 1k RPM is a minimum. Its not really a bad thing to have to much oil pressure. It's much worse to have too low of oil pressure. 20 PSI at idle is good but your engine is pretty worn out at 25 PSI if you are using manufacture suggested oil weight. Usually you want between 40 to 60 PSI at cruise.
Excellent video - thank you for posting! Very helpful as this is on my to do list!
+malkucken When all is said and done, Wire, gauge, sender and connectors. Plan on a hundred bucks. Reminds me of my Harley. Those things run on hundred dollar bills.
Thank dude, great info
Thank you easy
Welcome 😊
No videos for a while .Hope your doing good
computer software problems. Stay tunned
Don, t ever buy Equus brand of instruments. They are usseless
ok
Cool
+wtbm123 :-)
Thanks
Glad to help
EZGZ nice video.
Thanks, I appreciate the support!
I have followed you way before I started my own channel. Always enjoy your stories as well some of your old school tricks...😅.... thanks.
Greg,
This is the kind of stuff I was talking about when I sent you the email. Too much oil pressure and bypassing the oil cooler.
really good and true info great video my friend
+DriveShaft Drew Thank you sir. I'm trying
The pressure sensor you are using your car and gasoline
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Thanks for the good information. I never listen to stereo in the car either. I think heavy metal makes people drive as stupid as they obviously are.
Glad you found it useful