I agree, about $400 here in the US it is very expensive. Luckily I bought one before the price hike, and it is a great knife. Just getting into LionSteel knives though, seem to be a much better value. What do you use to mirror polish the edge? I am a novice sharpener and would love to become more skilled, starting suggestions? Thanks, you guys have very interesting videos.
The price in Australia now is AUD479.95 av. I bought a Cudeman MT-5 for AUD129.95 instead. 5mm blade, 95mm blade, Bohler N695 steel with an HRC of 60. The Fallkniven is nice, but not $500 nice :).
Watching this video it’s clear how serious and professional you guys took building up your channel. I somehow only discovered you guys a few weeks ago and have been binging on all the content.
I used to only use American made knives until I finally got the A1 and I love my A1. Now its been almost 2 years since, and I can't wait until Christmas morning to open up my F1D. (I'm like a 100% positive that Santa is bringing it for me.)😁
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives yea I agree you guys deserve way more subscribers. Every share and like and subscribe to there channel. Just sharing it on Facebook or where lever may go a long way and add some for them.
I thinks it’s an amazing piece of hardware... never had a fallkniven in my life, but I think I’ll spend that money for sure...! Really impressive knife and really good video (as always)..!
The COS steel stropps back an edge so fast its amazing. it doesnt have the edge retention of crew wear but the way it comes right back on a strop is amazing. its a fantastic knife
thats a great looking blade i made a knife out of crap steel hardend and tempered it and made a convex edge and the wood just blasts apart like that too i think the convex edge on the thick blade makes it like a hatchet i can imagine how nice the s1 is with its quality steel probably holds its edge like a champ
Its not as pretty ... but i built most of a shelter with it, with some help from my Bahco Laplander saw which everyone should have in there backpack. Fits in your pocket too. I also purchased a nice kydex sheath from www.godspeedtactical.com/. Great knife.
Hey while were on the subject. Another great bushcraft knife brand is Esse. I have the Esse 4.. my wife uses it. The only problem it has is its carbon steel and it does rust over time. Its probably sharper than the benchmade and it has the thumb choiles which i like, and the benchmade although it does not have that is still a tank.
Hey Jay, I had the esee 4. to be honest.. it's the worst knife I ever had. The 55-57 HRC on the 1095 steel is way to soft for a knife that small. It didn't hold an edge in a good edge angle. The angle esee gives the knife from the factory is about 45-50c which is unusable for bushcrafting. here in the netherlands the esee 4 with sheath is about $170,-. no $170,- knife should have 1095 in it. 1095 is a budget steel. However I do have good experiences with 1095-Crro-van from the becker bk2. It was not amazing but it was very decent for the price. I do love the robust feel from esee and the kydex sheath which is very excellent. Hope you don't mind my opinion about the esee haha. I bet I would love the Benchmade a lot though.
it's very hard to watch others do knife reviews after being exposed to this channel... very entertaining and informative gents! I think I may get this one
Hey DBK (and viewers)! I'm Ryan Little. Super honored to have my music in this video. Be sure to subscribe to my channel here on TH-cam for more music and new releases.
Ja, ik ben er ook wel weg van tot nu toe! :) Heb er nog niet heel veel mee gedaan maar alles wat ik er mee heb gedaan doet 'ie lachend. Voor zo'n dikzak van een mes verwacht je niet dat je er zo secuur mee kan werken. Geld meer dan waard!
Nice review of a great blade. I have the laminated CoS steel on my V1L Volcano. I reckon that the S1 marks the "sweet spot" in between the F1 and the A1!👍
Hey Micky B. Vette review man! Morgenavond komt als het goed is de bezorger met mijn nieuwe S1 Pro. Ben erg benieuwd en heb hoge verwachtingen van het mes. Helemaal na deze aflevering van DBK haha. Keep the content coming. I realy enjoy it!
GREAT videos! Whoever does your editing is phenomenal. AWESOME review - as are all of your reviews. I was looking at the Fallkniven A1 and was comparing it to the First Edge 5050 and 5150 models. Still undecided but... the Fallkniven is one ELEGANT blade! Not sure if there's any relevant differences between Elmax and VG10 laminate. I do prefer the convex grind so maybe I'll make a decision to opt for the Fallkniven. Thanks, guys!
You guys are so bloody good iv been subscribed since 20000 subs i think, and you guys only get better. you dont even need to be into knives to enjoy your content!
Hello from San Diego. May 2022. I wanted to buy your knife, but i buy thru Blade HQ on layaway. I don't have the 400 to buy yours up front. I will get your knife when i save up. I think it's too late to be one of the 1st 300. Im sad about that. Thank you guys for your reviews and your great friendship. It's nice to watch. ✌🏼🦁
In the end bark river would be our favourite because it is semi customisable and they have so many different models. Also bark river uses quite some hand work which earns my respect. In terms of build quality and performance both are great.
I have just spent 3 hours reprofiling my ambush tundra to full convex. 3v is a pain to get a mirror finish. lately I will trade toughness for sharpenability .
Geweldige video mannen!! :-) Bedankt voor de tijd en moeite die jullie hierin gestoken hebben. Top!! Thumbs up. ;-) Ik heb jullie kanaal net ontdekt dus ik ga nu de rest bekijken. Groeten, Jos
Factory Fallkniven sheaths are a noisey, loose, POS... What's your favorite "aftermarket" sheath for the Fallkniven F1, S1, A1, standard, pro, and x series? Anyone you would personally recommend for a good bush crafting sheath?
Is there any durability advantage in buying a Pro model over the standard fjallkniven line? I've got the standard F1 and am looking to buy the S1 or A1 but wonder if it's worth the money if all I'm gaining is weight. When battoning with the pro models do you notice that the extra metal at the start of the tang makes it sturdier?
@@DutchBushcraftKnives you could now make a comparison with the s1x because It Is more similar about the price too... And i am undecided on which One to take
@@DutchBushcraftKnives if you Want you could Just tell me here in the comments which One Is Better at doing the things you've done in the video( batoning, chopping, fire making) in your opinion
A saw is great in combination with a batonning knife. I enjoy batonning a lot more than splitting wood with an axe axtually. I love batonning wood next to the fire place. I wouldn't want to be chopping wood in the dark with an axe.
Haha - well I can certainly sympathize with the love part, no argument. Well-being after all is instrumental to survival. I am not sure I am completely on board with the darkness thing. It's very rarely completely dark and if it is I don't know why a knife would be much safer granted you possess muscle memory axe proficiency. Personally I tend to combine a stock classic stock wood handle mora with an indonesian parang I bough ages ago. Not even the jungle kind this one has more of a turnip chopper vibe going. But it's great. The thing is I hardly ever chop or cleave wood. I just find the right sizes and break them into the desired lengths roughly. once the fire is going I'll just gradually burn trunks and big blocks and save the sweat. And if my goal was producing a lot of nice similar size pieces of varying thickness I'd just bring an axe instead of my parang and save the energy and the knife blade.
We made a sharpening video about two weeks ago! The key is just go to a very very high grit and sharpen consistently. Otherwise you can also use a dremel to polish up everything but the edge. Use fine compound! Cheers man
You cannot see it with the naked eye, but when batoning, when the baton makes contact with the knife spine a laser beam activates and splits the wood. It is solar powered, so no batteries needed. How else could you explain how well it batons? Another great job guys! Thanks.
We both use Naniwa Chosera stones. Basic set up is 400 grit, 1000 grit, 3000 grit and 5000 grit. If need be we also have a 120 grit, 8k and 12k stone. Both chosera and Shapton ha-no-kuromaku are excellent!
The quality of the knife is insane, but the price is also pretty damn insane. Many people could not justify spending that much on it. I wonder though how many years under constant or even often use it would hold up. You should post an update sometime maybe in the next 5 months and show us if it is still a reliable tool in a survival situation.
Great video's on the pro series! If you had to choose one to take with you on a trekking for building fires, process food etc, which one would you take?
Probably the S1, because it's so versatile. Where as the A1 or the F1 make it difficult either to beton or do fine jobs. The s1 is capable of doing both. Stay sharp sir
Is het die 200euro extra waard tov de normale serie? Ik snap dat het beter is maar de s1 is al een duurzaam gereedschap dus hoeveel beter is die 200euro die je extra uitgeeft?
I wonder of this would be a good companion knife for a large Chopper. I'm looking at an extrema ratio parang(Kreios) to get real soon and a pair it up with a knife like this... the S1 Pro!
it's definitely a step up. it's well balanced as VG-10 but just overall better. The price just doesn't justify the increase in performance. I think this is also because accessories that come with it. If money doesn't matter it is definitely worth it. Pro's: - Gets sharper more easy - Holds a better edge - stainless fingerguard prevents damaging the handle when batonning - thicker knife makes it a better batonner Cons; - Thicker knife makes it harder to do finer tasks - The price
it's mostly looks but it also enhances the way it slices trough wood and other materials (less friction). this isn't a game changer though. A well polished bevel should also keep a better edge on paper but we can't really tell the difference as edge retention is bound to so many factors.
+Ryan Caiazza hey Ryan we sharpen our knives on Sharon ha no kuromaku and naniwa Chosera stones. These are great and hard stones that really suit these harder steels.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives hahaha I hear ya. it's an expensive hobby and you guys have a lot of nice knives I would love to have a collection like that. what kind of whetstone should I use from my 1095 blades my esee and tips knives and my lt wright's 01 and a2 steel what do u think?
thanks a lot zerao! Water stones and strops is the best option in our opinion. It might be one of the hardest to learn but if you master it the possibilities are endless where as you are limited with complete systems like the edge pro etc.
I read a science paper on edge sharpness in swords (which I have an interest in) and apparently the actual thickness of the blade doesnt really have much to do with how sharp or how good at cutting a sword is - you would probably think that a thicker blade wouldnt cut aswell etc and I would think that too but actually it turns out that its all about the edge angle of the metal at a near microscopic level and practically speaking about how well it retains that edge. Overall blade thickness only really comes into it for things like slicing in food prep where a thicker blade (over 2mm say) would more likely split a vegetable than slice it... although... who cares right? Many swords are significantly thicker than knives incidentally.
thanks a lot for the comment! The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be. I think that should also translate to the cutting abilities. I agree on what you say though. These CoS blades seem to get a real thin apex. I think it also depends on the steel. One steel molecules might break off more easily than other stronger bonded steels on the out most microscopic apex. I believe that thickness of a sword also helps to increase weight which is needed for penetration but you would know this best haha. thanks!
hate youtubes new reply system - it says you replied twice but can only see one sorry. Yeah sword weight (and point of balance) are really important for making sure the edge gets into the target. More so for cutting, less so for thrusting and stabbing. Blade weight is important for parrying too, if its a light sword you'll struggle to knock aside a heavier blade. "The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be" - so the studies etc that I've seen show that (damn, itd be a lot easier if I could show you a diagram) the edge on what you would think are quite thin and sharp looking blades often have - under a microscope - really quite rounded edges (and I don't mean secondary bevels or something - that is way too big a scale - we're talking molecular level here) now they still actually do cut so when I say "rounded" I'm not talking about a blunt edge or something, I'm basically talking about how small a scale you can get to, zooming in on the edge under a microscope, before the edge starts to look rounded... and the difference can be unbelievable really, very sharp knives you can basically keep zooming in on the tip and then zoom in again and you keep seeing that edge - on a knife that seems blunt this edge disappears as soon as you start using it (it collapses immediately upon contact basically) and on a knife that seems sharp its all about its ability to retain that edge. When I talk about edge retention again the scale is tiny, we're not talking like over an afternoon we're talking like over a split second. All I'm saying really is that way more emphasis is placed on the visible macro geometry of a blade than it really deserves - the paper I read made it clear that the primary factor is the micro geometry at the edge and the overall thickness of the blade made almost no real difference. For an example of this in swords - if you look at Katana and other similar japanese swords they're generally really thick blades when compared with most other swords and the edge geometry is really quite steep - they're not acute at all - but they're really really sharp - some of the sharpest swords around - because they hold their edge really well. That isn't entirely why they cut so well but it is a big part of it. A german medieval longsword in comparison is basically blunt - you can run your hand over the edge (despite their thinner blades and sharper visible edge angle) but they still cut quite well when swung with a lot of force. Anyway, hope thats interesting!
you're welcome. I should also mention that - and I'm sure you know this really - that the thickness and macrogeometry of the blade is very important for other reasons like strength and weight and how good at splitting wood and making feather sticks it is etc but in particular its important to how you strop or re-sharpen the blade (and also how they sharpened it at the factory) - so for example a scandi ground blade or flat ground blade with no secondary bevel is significantly easier to strop and resharpen than a blade with a secondary bevel and the result of that is that your scandi or flat ground (like a lot of Bark River blades) seem to be much sharper knives. Typically on knives with secondary bevels (or micro bevels) you strop them all day and you've never actually touched the edge at all, you just polish the bevel line and it looks and feels like you've sharpened it but you havent. Knife makers often put secondary bevels on what they feel to be low quality steel - which is most knives really - even some high end knives have secondary bevels on and the manufacturer does this because they think the steel chips or rolls easily - or more easily than on their better steel knives - and this makes the knifes edge last a little longer. The sad thing with this is that they're just ruining their knives really, they'd be better of without a secondary bevel, modern steel doesnt require microbevels, so when you pay all that extra money for a good steel quality actually what you're paying for is for a knife that doesnt have a micro-bevel - this is why Mora are so damn good, because they just leave off the microbevel and then they laminate cheap steel and it holds up. Even Bark River put microbevels on their high end super 3V steel blades, its crazy.
hotsteamypudding the blade thickness is important for edc tasks like cutting through an apple. When you have something with a 6mm thick spine like a Medford Praetorion you cannot slice the apple up. You need to split it apart. For a sword or a bushcraft knife the thickness isn't important, because you swing the knife/sword most of the time. When you want a good EDC Slicer get one with a thin blade
You had 412 likes before me and that's my Zip code!!! Lol... Sick knife and collection my Dutch brothers!!! Great vid! I have a ok collection but I doubt if I'll ever be able to try one of those knives. I bought a F1. Awhile back and it was a fake so I still haven't even got to try a regular F1 😢 Cheers and ATB Mates!!!
I want my knife to look that great. How to you get the mirror polish that high on the grind? I just sharpened my Bark River Bravo 1.5 and it's super sharp but the mirror polish is only on the very edge. Maybe another sharpening tutorial!??? Love the vids guys. Have a great new year!
The factory edge was sharpened in quite a big angle, probably around 30+ degrees. It could easily featherstick and baton but I couldnt help myself giving it a mirror edge haha, I sharpened it to around 25 degrees for my personal likings.
Great Videos! Man I think you just sold me on this knife. I'm also interested in the Bark River bushcraft with CPM 3V. I already have the Mora bushcraft which takes care of having a smaller blade. Which would you recommend between the Fallkniven and Bark River?
+Robob23678 Hi man! Thanks for your comment! We would recommend the bark river in 3v! The problem with this fallkniven is that the bolster gets a bit loose after a while... im sending mine back to fallkniven to let it get fixed. Shouldnt happen on a 350$ knife. Cheers man!
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Ah that's too bad! I really like the look of the CoS steel. Seemed that the heat treat was excellent on it. Well keep making awesome videos and thanks for the advise on the knives!
Hey DBK! Maybe for a future review take a look at White River Knives Firecraft FC4 or FC5. A little bit funky looking knife, but it looks like it might be surprisingly good!
besides the looks it makes cutting trough flesh or other foods very smooth. It is also more easy to clean and should rust a bit less easy because the water glides of more easily.
Hi guys, I want to purchase either the A1 Pro or the S1 Pro from Fallkniven of the knives and tools website but am torn between the two. I am after the best all round knife for all bushcraft tasks. As you have done excellent video reviews of both, I would like to know your thoughts on which one you you go for if you could only have one. Cheers fellas
What a knife! I am curious about the steel: how does it compare to the CPM 3V or Elmax? (as comparison e.g. to your Bark River Bushcrafter besides the length) - is it worth the extra charge?
It acts totally different to cpm 3v but is quite comparable with Elmax. Although Elmax is a powdered steel and it has a high amount of Vanadium and The COS has a high amount of cobalt in the steel. But I find it quite comparable especially when sharpening the knife. I think elmax holds an edge longer but Cos is the Tougher steel and outshines other steels with sharpness. This knife is by far the best chopper and batonner in our collection (together with it's bigger brother the Fallkniven A1 ofcourse). What I really like about the S1 is that it is still a bushcrafting knife aswell. Hope to have answered your question man, Cheers!
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry Ladies & Gents, Fallkniven has raised it's price way to high at this point in time. We do not support this!
I agree, about $400 here in the US it is very expensive. Luckily I bought one before the price hike, and it is a great knife. Just getting into LionSteel knives though, seem to be a much better value. What do you use to mirror polish the edge? I am a novice sharpener and would love to become more skilled, starting suggestions?
Thanks, you guys have very interesting videos.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives I bought S1 Pro here in Sweden for 2900kr (290 dollars) on www.outnorth.se
Standard price was 462$, then it was on sale for 416$, then with coupon i got it for 290$.
Amazon has it for $300 for here in the USA
The price in Australia now is AUD479.95 av. I bought a Cudeman MT-5 for AUD129.95 instead. 5mm blade, 95mm blade, Bohler N695 steel with an HRC of 60. The Fallkniven is nice, but not $500 nice :).
A rare video of Mickey actually being a normal human being vs a hyperactive lunatic with a knife lmao!
knife. is a hell of a drug
Watching this video it’s clear how serious and professional you guys took building up your channel.
I somehow only discovered you guys a few weeks ago and have been binging on all the content.
Mickey is the new Luke Skywalker :D
love the backround tracks you guys put in your vids there always relaxing n fun
thanks billy!
I used to only use American made knives until I finally got the A1 and I love my A1. Now its been almost 2 years since, and I can't wait until Christmas morning to open up my F1D. (I'm like a 100% positive that Santa is bringing it for me.)😁
mike oehlke did you get it!?
Great video! I love mine! The wife and kids got out for father's day this year. Probably my favorite in my small collection.
+Erik Jensen that must be the best fathersday present ever haha
You guys deserve many more subscribers , love the videos !
Thanks! we do our best
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives yea I agree you guys deserve way more subscribers. Every share and like and subscribe to there channel. Just sharing it on Facebook or where lever may go a long way and add some for them.
thanks a lot Ryan. It is highly appreciated!
Best to you!
reading this comment 8 months after and you guys have 130k subs!!!!!!
Well they have
I thinks it’s an amazing piece of hardware... never had a fallkniven in my life, but I think I’ll spend that money for sure...! Really impressive knife and really good video (as always)..!
The COS steel stropps back an edge so fast its amazing. it doesnt have the edge retention of crew wear but the way it comes right back on a strop is amazing. its a fantastic knife
thats a great looking blade i made a knife out of crap steel hardend and tempered it and made a convex edge and the wood just blasts apart like that too i think the convex edge on the thick blade makes it like a hatchet i can imagine how nice the s1 is with its quality steel probably holds its edge like a champ
Martin in the back looking at this like his A1 just gave birth to a baby hahaha
this video needs to be seen by more people... Is great!!! I want this knife!!!
Just bought the S1 Pro!! Can't wait for it to arrive. You guys make GREAT videos! Thank you
thanks a lot! good purchase!
Falkniven makes great stuff.
I still love my benchmade "bushcrafter".
We have our eyes set on the benchmade bushcraft for the future! so i'm very curious!
Its not as pretty ... but i built most of a shelter with it, with some help from my Bahco Laplander saw which everyone should have in there backpack. Fits in your pocket too. I also purchased a nice kydex sheath from www.godspeedtactical.com/. Great knife.
Hey while were on the subject. Another great bushcraft knife brand is Esse. I have the Esse 4.. my wife uses it. The only problem it has is its carbon steel and it does rust over time. Its probably sharper than the benchmade and it has the thumb choiles which i like, and the benchmade although it does not have that is still a tank.
Hey Jay, I had the esee 4. to be honest.. it's the worst knife I ever had. The 55-57 HRC on the 1095 steel is way to soft for a knife that small. It didn't hold an edge in a good edge angle. The angle esee gives the knife from the factory is about 45-50c which is unusable for bushcrafting. here in the netherlands the esee 4 with sheath is about $170,-. no $170,- knife should have 1095 in it. 1095 is a budget steel. However I do have good experiences with 1095-Crro-van from the becker bk2. It was not amazing but it was very decent for the price.
I do love the robust feel from esee and the kydex sheath which is very excellent.
Hope you don't mind my opinion about the esee haha. I bet I would love the Benchmade a lot though.
Yes your correct. I think that the steel is compromised with Esse knives. I do like the grip on it with the finger choil.
Excellent video. Very helpful. I originally had my eyes on the A1, now they're moving towards this one.
thanks a lot Alex!
it's very hard to watch others do knife reviews after being exposed to this channel... very entertaining and informative gents! I think I may get this one
thanks a lot James! we appreciate it!
Hmmm....4 garbergs or 1 S1Pro....I think I will go with the Mora.
Ive gone through like 15 mora 2000s since you wrote that comment :D
You guys are great, undoubtedly the best knife review channel on the tube.
Thanks a lot! We really appreciate the kind words!
All the best to you!
Hey DBK (and viewers)! I'm Ryan Little. Super honored to have my music in this video. Be sure to subscribe to my channel here on TH-cam for more music and new releases.
Ja, ik ben er ook wel weg van tot nu toe! :) Heb er nog niet heel veel mee gedaan maar alles wat ik er mee heb gedaan doet 'ie lachend. Voor zo'n dikzak van een mes verwacht je niet dat je er zo secuur mee kan werken. Geld meer dan waard!
Impressive knife and mirror finish you put on it. You might want to wear safety glasses when batoning, a wood splinter in the eye would suck.
Nice review of a great blade. I have the laminated CoS steel on my V1L Volcano. I reckon that the S1 marks the "sweet spot" in between the F1 and the A1!👍
It sure does! the V1L is a unique looking blade but with the CoS there is no doubt it's awesome.
thanks for the comment mate!
-stay sharp
You guys are funny, even your slow mo are funny! And the knife is great of course! Subbed! Take care, Irène.
thanks a lot mate!
you guys have so many good reviews and I just ordered mine at Amazo. can't wait to receive it. great works guys. AWESOME!!!
thanks a lot mate and congrats on the great purchase! I hope it will bring you a lot of joy!
Hey Micky B. Vette review man! Morgenavond komt als het goed is de bezorger met mijn nieuwe S1 Pro. Ben erg benieuwd en heb hoge verwachtingen van het mes. Helemaal na deze aflevering van DBK haha. Keep the content coming. I realy enjoy it!
Very enjoyable review, as always! Keep em coming 👍🏻
thanks a lot! we sure will!
the bicep twins, good video.
Lol Martin hugging the tree in the back. Ever get that feeling when climbing a rope? When I was a lot younger it happened to me. So random. Lol
It's the year 2020 & I LOVE this video !!!!!
I've started adding links to your videos to my amazon reviews to hopefully draw more people to you guys!
wow thanks a lot! we really appreciate that mate! cheers!
Just ordered this knife from knivesandtools. Thanks for the quality review lads, entertaining and informative.
+Mick Walker thanks a lot! You are very welcome!
Hey my man, did you leather strop it? I can't seem to achieve a mirror edge for my knives :(
God I really want one of these, what an insane blade!
GREAT videos! Whoever does your editing is phenomenal.
AWESOME review - as are all of your reviews.
I was looking at the Fallkniven A1 and was comparing it to the First Edge 5050 and 5150 models.
Still undecided but... the Fallkniven is one ELEGANT blade! Not sure if there's any relevant differences between Elmax and VG10 laminate. I do prefer the convex grind so maybe I'll make a decision to opt for the Fallkniven.
Thanks, guys!
Thanks! We do the editing ourselves. Sometimes Mikkie B, sometimes Maarten.
Cheers!! and thank you for your kind words!
You guys are so bloody good iv been subscribed since 20000 subs i think, and you guys only get better. you dont even need to be into knives to enjoy your content!
Very good video!!
Congratulations!
Beautiful place!
I hope that you guys continuous with yours videos!!
thanks a lot mate! we plan to continue for a long time!
Could you do a review of the cold steel srk san may III??
Hello from San Diego. May 2022. I wanted to buy your knife, but i buy thru Blade HQ on layaway.
I don't have the 400 to buy yours up front. I will get your knife when i save up. I think it's too late to be one of the 1st 300.
Im sad about that.
Thank you guys for your reviews and your great friendship. It's nice to watch.
✌🏼🦁
Another great video! How can anybody dislike any of your videos?
thanks a lot mate!
great review as usual on a great knife :)
Thank you very much sir
Great videos guys! This is how a video should be when you want to know moore about the knife itself!
Falkeniven vs Bark River? which is better
In the end bark river would be our favourite because it is semi customisable and they have so many different models. Also bark river uses quite some hand work which earns my respect. In terms of build quality and performance both are great.
Cheers! Love the vids. I picked up the F1 Pro last year. Awsome!!
One of our favorites!
I have just spent 3 hours reprofiling my ambush tundra to full convex. 3v is a pain to get a mirror finish. lately I will trade toughness for sharpenability .
It reallly is man, but 3v is worth it though. But because of the high amount of vanadium in the steel it is much harder to sharpen than COS steel.
Geweldige video mannen!! :-) Bedankt voor de tijd en moeite die jullie hierin gestoken hebben. Top!! Thumbs up. ;-) Ik heb jullie kanaal net ontdekt dus ik ga nu de rest bekijken. Groeten, Jos
bedankt Jos!
Dude has incredible speed! 😄
Factory Fallkniven sheaths are a noisey, loose, POS... What's your favorite "aftermarket" sheath for the Fallkniven F1, S1, A1, standard, pro, and x series? Anyone you would personally recommend for a good bush crafting sheath?
Is there any durability advantage in buying a Pro model over the standard fjallkniven line? I've got the standard F1 and am looking to buy the S1 or A1 but wonder if it's worth the money if all I'm gaining is weight. When battoning with the pro models do you notice that the extra metal at the start of the tang makes it sturdier?
Cool editing. Very professional all round
thanks a lot mate!
I would love to see a head to head between Bravo 1 3v and S1 PRO. Edge retention, sharpening, batoning and what not. Keep it up guys, great vids!
it would make a great video for sure! we'll keep it in mind!
@@DutchBushcraftKnives you could now make a comparison with the s1x because It Is more similar about the price too...
And i am undecided on which One to take
@@DutchBushcraftKnives if you Want you could Just tell me here in the comments which One Is Better at doing the things you've done in the video( batoning, chopping, fire making) in your opinion
Is this blade concave or flat? I was wondering how you got that amazing mirror finish on a concave blade and what stone you used to do it?
It’s a convex edge
If the thing you do most with your knives is batoning - maybe what you want is an axe or a saw?
A saw is great in combination with a batonning knife. I enjoy batonning a lot more than splitting wood with an axe axtually. I love batonning wood next to the fire place. I wouldn't want to be chopping wood in the dark with an axe.
Haha - well I can certainly sympathize with the love part, no argument.
Well-being after all is instrumental to survival. I am not sure I am
completely on board with the darkness thing. It's very rarely completely
dark and if it is I don't know why a knife would be much safer granted
you possess muscle memory axe proficiency. Personally I tend to combine a
stock classic stock wood handle mora with an indonesian parang I bough
ages ago. Not even the jungle kind this one has more of a turnip chopper
vibe going. But it's great. The thing is I hardly ever chop or cleave
wood. I just find the right sizes and break them into the desired
lengths roughly. once the fire is going I'll just gradually burn trunks
and big blocks and save the sweat. And if my goal was producing a lot of
nice similar size pieces of varying thickness I'd just bring an axe
instead of my parang and save the energy and the knife blade.
thanks for your explanation! I can understand completely! The love part is my biggest reason!
YEah. Knives are great ;D
So legit this episode, for sure my next knife
My god, it's beautiful with that mirror edge! :O Still waiting impatiently for the sharpening video ;) Keep up the great work, love it.
We made a sharpening video about two weeks ago! The key is just go to a very very high grit and sharpen consistently. Otherwise you can also use a dremel to polish up everything but the edge. Use fine compound!
Cheers man
Duh, I completely missed that! Thanks :)
I would love to see how you got the mirror finish , have you done any tutorials?
Great vid by the way , I'm going to buy one
You cannot see it with the naked eye, but when batoning, when the baton makes contact with the knife spine a laser beam activates and splits the wood. It is solar powered, so no batteries needed. How else could you explain how well it batons? Another great job guys! Thanks.
This is incredible! you have found out the secret. Better be calling Stephen Hawking soon because you are on to something mate!
As always, another damn good video guys! What sharpening stone set up do you use?
We both use Naniwa Chosera stones. Basic set up is 400 grit, 1000 grit, 3000 grit and 5000 grit. If need be we also have a 120 grit, 8k and 12k stone. Both chosera and Shapton ha-no-kuromaku are excellent!
Great video! How fast is the sharpening?... since is a stainless steel and not a carbon
The quality of the knife is insane, but the price is also pretty damn insane. Many people could not justify spending that much on it. I wonder though how many years under constant or even often use it would hold up. You should post an update sometime maybe in the next 5 months and show us if it is still a reliable tool in a survival situation.
Great video's on the pro series! If you had to choose one to take with you on a trekking for building fires, process food etc, which one would you take?
Probably the S1, because it's so versatile. Where as the A1 or the F1 make it difficult either to beton or do fine jobs. The s1 is capable of doing both.
Stay sharp sir
I see many play buttons in your future. Great videos!
+Will Sweet thanks a lot will!
Thanks for sharing this video.
You are very welcome!
For you the s1 pro is better than s1x ?
just discovered this channel, little gem! keep up! love your style!
thanks a lot jager!
Ok, guys, you sold me this knife!
Thank you for the great review. Your knowledge is help shape my next knife purchase decision.
Great to hear so. We if you ever have questions, dont hesitate to ask
Thank you, Micky and Martin.
You guys are very helpful.
Another awesome test, of an awesome knife. Thanks :)
thanks man!
Do you guys have any videos on mirror polishing and sharpening.
Thanks
Is het die 200euro extra waard tov de normale serie? Ik snap dat het beter is maar de s1 is al een duurzaam gereedschap dus hoeveel beter is die 200euro die je extra uitgeeft?
Nice video guys! The knife looks absolutely amazing. I think I'm in love
thanks a lot mate!
I just honestly want you to be honest 😂😂 Great video!
I wonder of this would be a good companion knife for a large Chopper. I'm looking at an extrema ratio parang(Kreios) to get real soon and a pair it up with a knife like this... the S1 Pro!
well, it sure is a good knife so I think it'll make a great pair! You could even go with the F1 for the finer tasks as you have a parang with you.
Say Heah Dutch, Is the Pro Series that much better, What's your take onbit. Pro's and Con's Thanx You in advance. ,, .
it's definitely a step up. it's well balanced as VG-10 but just overall better. The price just doesn't justify the increase in performance. I think this is also because accessories that come with it. If money doesn't matter it is definitely worth it.
Pro's:
- Gets sharper more easy
- Holds a better edge
- stainless fingerguard prevents damaging the handle when batonning
- thicker knife makes it a better batonner
Cons;
- Thicker knife makes it harder to do finer tasks
- The price
You sold me, Cheer's. ,, .
Excellent analysis!
thanks a lot mate!
Yo you guys rock. keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. I think this is a knife I really like. But can you really, really recommend it?
Greets Manuel
Definitely but that of course also depends on your needs in a knife
Thanks very good
is there any practicality to the mirror polish or is it for looks very nice either way
it's mostly looks but it also enhances the way it slices trough wood and other materials (less friction). this isn't a game changer though. A well polished bevel should also keep a better edge on paper but we can't really tell the difference as edge retention is bound to so many factors.
Very good review and test. I am looking for the S1 pro. Good luck with your DBK.
thanks a lot mate we appreciate it.
Maak zelf een mes en test welke beter is de falkniven of de zelfgemaakte
Great knife and video. Thanks guys.
thanks a lot!
-stay sharp
Love all your videos and the info you give. What kind of stones do you use?
+Ryan Caiazza hey Ryan we sharpen our knives on Sharon ha no kuromaku and naniwa Chosera stones. These are great and hard stones that really suit these harder steels.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives hahaha I hear ya. it's an expensive hobby and you guys have a lot of nice knives I would love to have a collection like that. what kind of whetstone should I use from my 1095 blades my esee and tips knives and my lt wright's 01 and a2 steel what do u think?
Your channel is getting better day by day.
One question: ¿What do you think is the better sharpening sistem? ¿High quality water stones and strop?.
thanks a lot zerao! Water stones and strops is the best option in our opinion. It might be one of the hardest to learn but if you master it the possibilities are endless where as you are limited with complete systems like the edge pro etc.
Thanks!!!! Keep going with the channel, I love it!
I read a science paper on edge sharpness in swords (which I have an interest in) and apparently the actual thickness of the blade doesnt really have much to do with how sharp or how good at cutting a sword is - you would probably think that a thicker blade wouldnt cut aswell etc and I would think that too but actually it turns out that its all about the edge angle of the metal at a near microscopic level and practically speaking about how well it retains that edge. Overall blade thickness only really comes into it for things like slicing in food prep where a thicker blade (over 2mm say) would more likely split a vegetable than slice it... although... who cares right?
Many swords are significantly thicker than knives incidentally.
thanks a lot for the comment! The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be. I think that should also translate to the cutting abilities. I agree on what you say though. These CoS blades seem to get a real thin apex. I think it also depends on the steel. One steel molecules might break off more easily than other stronger bonded steels on the out most microscopic apex.
I believe that thickness of a sword also helps to increase weight which is needed for penetration but you would know this best haha.
thanks!
hate youtubes new reply system - it says you replied twice but can only
see one sorry.
Yeah sword weight (and point of balance) are really important for making
sure the edge gets into the target. More so for cutting, less so for
thrusting and stabbing. Blade weight is important for parrying too, if
its a light sword you'll struggle to knock aside a heavier blade.
"The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a
factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be"
- so the studies etc that I've seen show that (damn, itd be a lot easier
if I could show you a diagram) the edge on what you would think are
quite thin and sharp looking blades often have - under a microscope -
really quite rounded edges (and I don't mean secondary bevels or
something - that is way too big a scale - we're talking molecular level
here) now they still actually do cut so when I say "rounded" I'm not
talking about a blunt edge or something, I'm basically talking about how
small a scale you can get to, zooming in on the edge under a
microscope, before the edge starts to look rounded... and the difference
can be unbelievable really, very sharp knives you can basically keep
zooming in on the tip and then zoom in again and you keep seeing that
edge - on a knife that seems blunt this edge disappears as soon as you
start using it (it collapses immediately upon contact basically) and on a
knife that seems sharp its all about its ability to retain that edge.
When I talk about edge retention again the scale is tiny, we're not
talking like over an afternoon we're talking like over a split second.
All I'm saying really is that way more emphasis is placed on the visible
macro geometry of a blade than it really deserves - the paper I read
made it clear that the primary factor is the micro geometry at the edge
and the overall thickness of the blade made almost no real difference.
For an example of this in swords - if you look at Katana and other similar japanese swords they're generally really thick blades when compared with most other swords and the edge geometry is really quite steep - they're not acute at all - but they're really really sharp - some of the sharpest swords around - because they hold their edge really well. That isn't entirely why they cut so well but it is a big part of it. A german medieval longsword in comparison is basically blunt - you can run your hand over the edge (despite their thinner blades and sharper visible edge angle) but they still cut quite well when swung with a lot of force.
Anyway, hope thats interesting!
thanks a lot for the explanation ! this sure is interesting to read for sure! thanks a lot for sharing I really appreciate it!
you're welcome.
I should also mention that - and I'm sure you know this really - that the thickness and macrogeometry of the blade is very important for other reasons like strength and weight and how good at splitting wood and making feather sticks it is etc but in particular its important to how you strop or re-sharpen the blade (and also how they sharpened it at the factory) - so for example a scandi ground blade or flat ground blade with no secondary bevel is significantly easier to strop and resharpen than a blade with a secondary bevel and the result of that is that your scandi or flat ground (like a lot of Bark River blades) seem to be much sharper knives. Typically on knives with secondary bevels (or micro bevels) you strop them all day and you've never actually touched the edge at all, you just polish the bevel line and it looks and feels like you've sharpened it but you havent.
Knife makers often put secondary bevels on what they feel to be low quality steel - which is most knives really - even some high end knives have secondary bevels on and the manufacturer does this because they think the steel chips or rolls easily - or more easily than on their better steel knives - and this makes the knifes edge last a little longer. The sad thing with this is that they're just ruining their knives really, they'd be better of without a secondary bevel, modern steel doesnt require microbevels, so when you pay all that extra money for a good steel quality actually what you're paying for is for a knife that doesnt have a micro-bevel - this is why Mora are so damn good, because they just leave off the microbevel and then they laminate cheap steel and it holds up. Even Bark River put microbevels on their high end super 3V steel blades, its crazy.
hotsteamypudding the blade thickness is important for edc tasks like cutting through an apple. When you have something with a 6mm thick spine like a Medford Praetorion you cannot slice the apple up. You need to split it apart.
For a sword or a bushcraft knife the thickness isn't important, because you swing the knife/sword most of the time.
When you want a good EDC Slicer get one with a thin blade
man that knife is a beast man o man
Fantastic performance
You had 412 likes before me and that's my Zip code!!!
Lol...
Sick knife and collection my Dutch brothers!!!
Great vid!
I have a ok collection but I doubt if I'll ever be able to try one of those knives.
I bought a F1. Awhile back and it was a fake so I still haven't even got to try a regular F1 😢
Cheers and ATB Mates!!!
+Bigfoot Bushcraft thanks mate! Sorry to hear that you got scammed. Hope you'll get to try the real thing!
Cheers!
I want my knife to look that great. How to you get the mirror polish that high on the grind? I just sharpened my Bark River Bravo 1.5 and it's super sharp but the mirror polish is only on the very edge.
Maybe another sharpening tutorial!???
Love the vids guys. Have a great new year!
Another great video, would love to see what the factory edge was like before you refined it
The factory edge was sharpened in quite a big angle, probably around 30+ degrees. It could easily featherstick and baton but I couldnt help myself giving it a mirror edge haha, I sharpened it to around 25 degrees for my personal likings.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives cant say i disagree, with the mirror polish its a runway model haha
What we're the grits of your stones that you used? Thanks
At 9:43 you said that there was a edge problem on the belly of the knife and was it a chip? What happened to the belly of the knife? Thank you.
Great Videos! Man I think you just sold me on this knife. I'm also interested in the Bark River bushcraft with CPM 3V. I already have the Mora bushcraft which takes care of having a smaller blade. Which would you recommend between the Fallkniven and Bark River?
+Robob23678 Hi man! Thanks for your comment!
We would recommend the bark river in 3v! The problem with this fallkniven is that the bolster gets a bit loose after a while... im sending mine back to fallkniven to let it get fixed.
Shouldnt happen on a 350$ knife.
Cheers man!
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Ah that's too bad! I really like the look of the CoS steel. Seemed that the heat treat was excellent on it.
Well keep making awesome videos and thanks for the advise on the knives!
Thanks a lot! it sure is a bummer. We really love the knife and the steel but the bolster is really an annoying problem.
What do you use to give your knives a mirror edge? I'd like to do the same for mine
Hey DBK!
Maybe for a future review take a look at White River Knives Firecraft FC4 or FC5. A little bit funky looking knife, but it looks like it might be surprisingly good!
If you had to choose between the fallkniven nl5 and the s1 pro what would you take??
Nl5 if you are a hunter.
S1 is very nice for an all around knife
Is there some reason other than it looks good, you guys polish your knives as mirror?
besides the looks it makes cutting trough flesh or other foods very smooth. It is also more easy to clean and should rust a bit less easy because the water glides of more easily.
Can you chop yew logs or magic logs or would you recommend a dragon hatchet still?
skip training your woodcutting and go do some herblore. Much more rewarding and you might gain a few levels fighting.
Hi guys, I want to purchase either the A1 Pro or the S1 Pro from Fallkniven of the knives and tools website but am torn between the two. I am after the best all round knife for all bushcraft tasks. As you have done excellent video reviews of both, I would like to know your thoughts on which one you you go for if you could only have one. Cheers fellas
The a1 pro combines best with a smaller blade. Maybe a cheap Mora for carving. The S1 Pro is the choice if you want a one knife option
Just ordered a s1pro and i would like a mirror finish as yours! Plz do a "How to" video! DBK rules!!!!
found it!
Thanks a lot mate! we really appreciate it! congrats on your great purchase!
What a knife! I am curious about the steel: how does it compare to the CPM 3V or Elmax? (as comparison e.g. to your Bark River Bushcrafter besides the length) - is it worth the extra charge?
It acts totally different to cpm 3v but is quite comparable with Elmax. Although Elmax is a powdered steel and it has a high amount of Vanadium and The COS has a high amount of cobalt in the steel.
But I find it quite comparable especially when sharpening the knife. I think elmax holds an edge longer but Cos is the Tougher steel and outshines other steels with sharpness.
This knife is by far the best chopper and batonner in our collection (together with it's bigger brother the Fallkniven A1 ofcourse). What I really like about the S1 is that it is still a bushcrafting knife aswell.
Hope to have answered your question man,
Cheers!
Thanks a lot! So this seems really to be a high end steel and at least worth to think about the higher price.