Wanted to say thank you for the video. I bought a sweet '09 Jetta last month. Mint condition, low miles and super clean, but got an incredible deal because the dealer couldn't fix the mind jarring whistle that seemed to be a cooling fan issue. I got the car home and replaced the fan then headed off for a 600 mile vaca. 10 miles down the road, the sound returned. It would only start when the engine reached a specific temp I observed. I found your video after I reached my destination, found a replacement diaphram, and had the car fixed within minutes. There was a 1/2" tear that was apparently seeping hot air, much to the effect of a pressure cooker. So simple. This also resolved the car's slightly rough idle. Know too that the codes that I received when diagnosed matched each that you mentioned. I am not one to comment or post, but I wanted to take a moment to give you a nod for helping me figure this out. Best of luck to you and your channel.
I've seen plenty of these fail; the dorman diaphram replacement isn't oem but works decent on the first one I did the owner has 20k miles and no return of the symptoms. I really enjoy your videos and how you give options to diagnose without vagcom or such. Thumbs up !
@@boomerguy9935 there is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor just behind the throttle body that gets clogged with oil when the diaphragm inside the PCV valve tears. The P0106 code says the Mass Air Flow sensor is culprit, but replacing that sensor did nothing for my engine. Found a video that said to clean or replace the MAP sensor and replace the PCV valve and that fixed it for me, but only for a few months because the cheap OReilly PCV valve failed. I replaced the PCV a second time with an OEM valve and I have not had the P0106 since. While you have the throttle body removed you will want to reach inside the intake an soak up as much oil as you can that leaked through the torn diaphragm. th-cam.com/video/S-EguzA5FHI/w-d-xo.html&feature=share
YOU THE MAN!! I've been chasing an intake leak for weeks. I had no clue that that wasn't supposed to suck air like that. I just bought the 08 beetle for my daughter. I put the p2279 code in the search and your video popped up!
Am I the only one that thinks the 2.5 inline 5 is an underrated base motor? I mean... 150 to 170 hp, and 170 ft/lbs of torque? not exactly slow... and quite a reliable engine too.
I've been driving one for 210K. Still strong.. It's a 2005.5 and had the timing chain issue at 60K but since then, tires, oil, brakes, AC blower motor. It burns a fair amount of oil (I run full high mileage synthetic) but doesn't leak or smoke. The torque eases the hassle of manual transmission in slowing/speed up highway situations because you can leave it in 5th gear all the way down to 20mph and have the power to pull back out. So, yes, I agree. The 2.5 sounds like a vacuum cleaner when you rev it but on back roads, it feels very torque-y. Plenty of sack at 70MPH without downshifting.
great engine. Audi has been using variations of it for years and it has crazy power potential. The intake track is definitely the weak link. I wish it had higher compression too. Those "features" make it a great motor to turbo-charge though.
Integrated engineering created a SRI manifold and have developed the software to remove the transmission rpm limiter to take full advantage of stage 2. It'll put out 215hp and 200 TQ. Do that with BFI engine mounts plus their intake of course and you got a borderline sleepy with spirited drive and beautiful sound. Of course a performance exhaust helps or go with the valve switch.
@@jwinslow5661 My wife's 2008 Rabbit... 115k miles and no issues. I just change the oil and spark plugs. Super reliable. My 2.5 Sportwagen - rock solid. 70k miles and still going with no issues. I've done all the work on both cars myself - has saved me a lot of money in VW service fees. I'm an Audi fanatic as well... and these 07k engines can be picked up quickly - turbo'd... and swapped into older Audis. Enjoy: th-cam.com/video/pzddfJwaseQ/w-d-xo.html
Love the videos. Question. I have an erratic idle. I blocked off the hose from the valve cover to the intake and the idle smoothed out. I verified the pcv diaphragm was ripped. I replaced the valve cover and still have erratic idle. Did I get a bad pcv valve? I did unhook the mass airflow sensor and it smoothed out. Thanks
Vid was a big help, but just love how it was made easy to remove for filming after the little tang notches were broken off so it looks like it simply pulls right off.
Just replacing the pcV diaphragm is a temporary fix if you are experiencing a code P0106. Code will return for most cars & cause your car to run bad. Best fix solution for a code P0106 is replacing the entire valve cover, cleaning out the PCV hose leading to the intake, wiping down the intake manifold free from the oil excess, cleaning your MAP sensor and cleaning your throttle body.
@@miguelpernalete hi Miguel. I did not. I am curretly using castrol 5w-40 high milage oil. Check your air filter. These engines tend to get hot....so you need to use 5w-40. Have a done a tune up yet?
@@miguelpernalete Also, check your intake manifold bolts..they are 6mm. You would need a long hex 6mm or a torx 40. Do not over tightened as it is plastic. These tend to come loose. Hope this helps Friend!
@alfredbernal8603 I don't have any issues no trouble codes no misfire. The only thing Is that on long drives 30 miles and up at 70 mph It burns oil. Yesterday I look inside the intake and it have oil traces and the hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake have oil too. I am using 5w30 motul
Thanks for mentioning how to find the REAL sponsers of the day, cause there are some pretty good fakes out there. That was a horrible experience with that b5 purge valve. Thanks for the help!
Nice video. Just buy the PCV rebuild kit on ebay. Job finished in an hour or less. Easy and cheap. Simple job, you leave the valve cover in pace. I had to clean up the flashing on the new molded diaphragm cap. Took a minute or two for that
I think the diaphragms that fail are now available aftermarket. One problem with those is that you normally need a new cover. I forget how much that is but I had one replaced on a 2006 Jetta 2.5 and at that time the part I really needed was only available as the valve cover. The worst thing about that other than the price is throwing away an otherwise good valve cover.
I was going to replace just the PCV valve until I saw this video and the DIY video on replacing the valve cover. My valve cover is "sweating" around the perimeter, so I'll replace the whole unit for complete peace of mind. DAP has a very low price on them right now with free shipping.
From one DIYer to another. If you want to save even more money go to amazon. OME Valve Cover for $105 & Aftermarket for $74 & free shipping. I own a 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 & get all my parts on Amazon & haven't had any problems. A few months ago my throttle body went out & was gonna get it locally for $400. Luckily I checked Amazon & they had some for $55. So I installed that & its worked great. Just wanted to throw it out there if you want to check it out in the future. Also Amazon's return service is great.
If VW Parts fail, Renault Parts fails three times! P.S.: We own a Pontiac and a Volvo and a VW; the Pontiac needs the most repairs, the Volks not much, the beautiful Volvo almost nothing...
Is some suction when removing the oil cap while the engine is running normal? Its not preventing me from pulling it but I can hear it sucking. Very slight pull.
The diaphragm is made of silicone right? I think the failure could be mitigated if the spring was seated on nylon, or some sort of flat washer vice directly on the silicone. I think with cycling stresses and small contact area (higher pressure point) caused this failure.
08 new beetle...cooling fan stuck on high speed. Sometimes, when stopping starting driving, fan dives to normal, then immediately goes back to sustained hi speed op. What do you think...?
Hey humble mechanic, awesome information thanks for the video! I was attempting to replace my plugs this weekend, and found the valve cover to be sweating from the sides. I also found oil in the ignition coil connector rail, and when I took the coils out they were covered in oil. Should replace the entire valve cover + coils or just the gasket )and clean the coils? Surprisingly I have no engine codes, just a bit of hesitation on full throttle though. Thanks!
Hey humblemechanic, will excess oil consumption also be a sign of something failing within the PCV valve or valve cover? I find that my Jetta burns alot of oil and read that this might be the issue.
Hi HumbleMechanic, do you know what can cause oil consumption problem on 2.5L? Currently have about 115k on my 07 rabbit and directly after my last oil change I started consuming about 1 quart per 1000 miles. Compression test came back good in all cylinders, no leaking fluids, all cylinders were clear of oil residue except one, has a newer untorn pcv diaphram kit, and when I remove the pcv diaphram with the vehicle off there looks to be a decent amount of oil in there. Could my issue be caused by the valve cover?
I've replaced the valve cover on my 2012 VW Passat 2.5 and a week later I still found oil dripping on the MAP sensor. After a month of cleaning it several times i bought a Ensun PCV Diaphragm repair kit and installed it. Now its making a whistle/squeal sound when the engine idles or when i'm at 1500 to 2000 RPMS. I am getting really frustrated with this car.
Don't buy a $5 diaphragm repair kit. In almost all cases it never works. Dutch auto parts has a video about it on how they only sell the whole valve cover with new PCV. They don't sell that $5 kit that does not work. You replaced your valve cover gasket which is a first good step. You still have oil dripping on your barometric sensor not MAF. Next step is to install an oil catch can. Look on VW Forum about installing oil catch can. I bought a small generic oil catch can for less the $20. Make sure that is has a baffle in it. I installed it my self and bought PCV/ECC hose from napa and 2 hose clamps. Reused original clip on fitting from pcv and throttle body fitting to new hoses. Most of oil and water is being captured by the catch can that I dispose of the fluid once a week. My VW 2012 Golf 2.5L is about reach 92 K. My third and final step is to remove intake plenum, clean plenum, throttle body, Barometric sensor (its like you'r MAF sensor). Blast intake runners ( intake valve's with soft Walnut Shell Blast Media). Typically dealer want's about $1k for a job like this that I can due easily for less than$100 my self. All direct injection vehicle are having carbon build up on intake runners. Most of vehicle are starting to come with catch can already from the dealer. VW does not have a fix for this. Catch can i like putting a band aid over a wound that will not stop bleeding. I hope that I explained some of this to you.
Hey Guys, when replacing the valve cover, do we need to apply a specific torque to the screws? Or should I tighten up the screws until I feel they are tight enough? Any suggestions? Many thanks for the good word.
10 newton meters on each screw - have to do it in a pattern that is provided with the valve cover. Do not tighten beyond 10 NM as this will warp the plastic cover and it will leak oil.
The ways to diagnose and possible codes are very helpful, thanks! Quick question, if I have to replace the gasket, is it to just replace the whole gasket cover or would that be spending extra money just because?
Little late to the party but I'm driving a 2009 2.5 jetta and it is running strong at 173k, only problem we've had is a known valve body issue and hard shifts, after it got fixed, runs just fine
Good info. I'm thinking about replacing my Golf 2.5L valve cover as I found some oil on the 2nd coil & top of the hole. Do I need to use a sealant when replacing the valve cover? Thanks!
@HumbleMechanic I understand that the PCV valve only works by sending air flow in only one direction, I have already changed the membrane of my PCV and it has air flow in both directions, is it normal?
How about doing a video on the 2.8 VR6 12V pcv valve, part number 7M0128101 ? This part is obsolete! I need a new part, a workaround, an improved part, or a substitute pcv valve for my '96 Passat GLX wagon. It's suffering from a rough idle, and there is a hissing noise coming from this valve. This part also appears on many other VWs of similar vintage.
I checked the diaprhragm on mine, looks good from inside. But my car is a 2012 gti and is leaking from underneath the pcv, I am going to replace the whole think and hope for the best
could a bad pcv valve cause smoking out the exhaust? my 2.5 is burning oil :( I havent had time to compression test yet was hoping this would be a fix one day on the highway it just started smoking hard and i pulled over it almost had no oil left! had to tow it home haven't looked at it since
@@craigpeate8972 i compression tested the motor and got good results, so i replaced the valve cover ordered a oem one from amazon. seems to be fine now *knock on wood* hope it doesn't come back.. I did try to open the old pcv i damaged the clips but upon opening it the diaphragm was trashed. id say get a new valve cover and hope for the best
@@craigpeate8972 no worries let me know if it fixed it, im waiting to get rabbit insured again so i can do a longer test drive but it has ran for over an hour in my driveway and i took it around the block a couple times after warming up didnt see it smoke!
@@HumbleMechanic The Intake abs pressure (MAP) sensor? My dealer said the valve cover needed to be replaced when replacing the Intake abs pressure sensor or the sensor would just fail again. Haven't picked my car back up yet to look but I was thinking the diaphragm would be the culprit and after replacing that, it should prevent the new intake abs pressure (MAP) sensor from getting coated with oil?
HumbleMechanic he’s referring to the MAF sensor or MAP sensor. Yes it can leak oil into that sensor and cause a failure code P0106! Please check your sensor and PCV valve diaphram! If any mechanic says you need to replace your throttle body or valve cover make sure that the symptoms are not something SMALLER! To replace those part (throttle body w/ gasket 450$) (valve cover w/gasket 230$) would be crazy if it’s just the pcv valve (20-35$) or your MAF/P Sensor (30-60$) *yes prices are accurate to current yr pricing* (all part quoted are from CAR ID)
QUESTION: What am I missing? I may have been searching in the wrong place, but Im having issues with rough idle and a miss in several cylinders. While trying to find the reason I realized it ran fine with the MAF disconnected and the engine running off of map, but as soon as I plugged it back in, the same thing happened again. because of the low idle I looked into the PCV and sure enough it had torn. replaced it and still have the same issue..... I did the PCV checks in the video and it looks like the PCV is working correctly now. I tryed replacing bother the MAF and the MAP with no luck. Thanks for the helpful videos! I love the content!
Andrew Sudlow I know you posted this 2 years ago but I had the exact same issue as you did and I found the problem. Maybe my post will help someone else. First of all the PCV diaphragm was torn in my valve cover. I replace the cover just like you did and it made no difference on how it would run. Unplugging the MAF helped but still not right. I could hear something like a vacuum leak still with new valve cover installed but I couldn't find the source of the noise. Unplugging the PCV hose from intake to valve cover and covering the hose would cause the car to run perfectly so I figured it had to be a defective valve cover. I removed the new valve cover to inspect it inside. I couldn't find anything wrong. I then took a flashlight to the engine to look around and that is when I saw the problem. I could see right through a hole on the end of where the cam ladder and cylinder head meet. I guess the vacuum inside the engine was so strong that it sucked the end plug right into the engine leaving a large hole. After replacing the plug and re-installing the valve cover the engine ran perfectly. And yes kotte59, this engine does have both a MAF and a MAP sensor. A lot of engines have both so you might want to look into that before you pretend to know it all.
Charles I have a 1997 Eurovan. I cannot find anything on how the pcv valve works on this thing. It has a vacuum line to it from the EGR solenoid. And just seems to allow constant flow through the PCV valve. Is the vacuum line supposed to open it? Should it just free flow when off the vehicle or should the airflow shut off. Help!!!
My dad installed the spulen brake booster delete kit and since has had a significant oil leak, upon dismantling oil is pooled on top of the transmission, but under the aluminum cover that is the oil fill neck.. the delete kit installed doesnt show signs of leaks, what is under the aluminum fill neck cover? I notice its secured with a series of torx bolts.. thinking it's that gasket leaking, ever seen that? This 06 Jetta has 275k on it..
Diaphragm of PCV valve is in very good condition (No crack,no broken) but don't know why oil going to turbo , any cause you know why pcv valve consuming oil?
Thank you for this video. I had a P0299 on my 2011 Audi A5, took it to my mechanic and he replaced the diverter valve. He took it forna spin and engine light came back on. They examined and he said the vent valve collapsed. Is this the same as the pcv valve? He is going to keep it overnight and look at it again tomorrow. Is this a cheap fix? Thank you for your help. I know this video is 3 years old but very much appreciate your feedback
I chage it but it wasnt the problem but i change diaphragm and spring , what else could be the problem ( realenty , aceleration false explotions in cilinder)
Humble youre a Life Saver !!! Just fixed my Jetta Sportswagon a few minutes ago....PCV was the issue Wife came home and told me the semtums and I knew right away what it was ! An all because of YOU 🙌 I watch you're Videos just to Learn new things even if I don't even own the cars lol✊....but I got a question...will the Check Engine Light go Off on its Own or will I Have to Reset it ?...
the factory pvc cover is better then the Dorman one. you can use a heat gun to heat the tabs up so you dont break them. then use the factory spring and cover with the Dorman valve. My Dorman cover would not seal off, so i put the factory one back on.
So, when you put your finger on the small hole, you have vaccuum or does it blow air out? On my 2.0T it blows air out. is that bad? no check engine light and car runs fine.
Recently had this go out on my wife's 2.0t Tiguan. Replacing it was easy but then this failed it also pressurized the crankcase and blew out the rear main seal .... not so easy for a dyi repair... so about $1200 later to the dealership and its good as new.
My 09 Rabbit is in right now with a check engine light and i am being told it is from a bad PVC valve. They are telling me their is oil in the manifold because of this and that is causing the sensor that is in there to fail or throw codes. I know I am able to replace the valve cover by myself but my question is they want to drain the oil or clean out the oil that leaked... Is this a necessary step? Could I do it myself. They want $700 for the whole job.
Hey Charles..I got error codes P2279 P0507 P0171 and I was so sure this is the cause..took out PCV valve and no tears..replaced it anyway but I'm still getting very rough idle. When I plug the PCV valve hose with my finger, Idle smooths out. So i'm stumped. What else could the leak be?
Hey HumbleMechanic It usually happens at least once a day but sometimes when I go to start my car it takes like ten seconds of turning over before it finally starts. I tried changing the battery, spark plugs, and sprayed some GDI cleaner through the intake. Do you think this could be causing it? I do not have any check engine lights. I'm told my valve cover gasket is leaking a little. My engine seems to be running lean based on the spark plugs. If this isn't it where should I check next? Maybe the fuel filter?
Hey! I have a 2.5l Jetta and have been doing regular service myself. I was wondering if you have a maintenance schedule that you could point me in the direction to! Great video!
Would a failed PVC Valve cause exhaust pressure? My one is built in system with the crankcase breather and it's electrically controlled. I got a few signs, code P0106 Manifold Absolute pressure/Barometric circuit/range performance, Engine heating so quick within 2-4mins of cold start, p0170 fuel trim bank1, a loud noise from under the engine when started and continues when the engine is warmed up. A hissing sound from around the throttle body when the gas pedal is pressed at higher rmp whiling driving. It struggles to reach between 45-60mph on the motorway. Rough idle, and vibration when idle. I really need help on how to go on with all these symptoms.
Good Video... do you have a video explaining Why Transmission Fail on 07 jetta? When My dashboard PRND highlight transmission starts falling! Thank you
I had this happen replaced it and still have a vacuum leak and misfire changed all spark plugs and coil packs cleaned injectors nothing seems to work kinda stuck... throttle body is good and it only runs rough at a idle wether in park or in drive at an idle.
José Mariano Díaz Duarte yes, turns out the valve cover I bought they put the rubber diafram in backwards causing a terrible vacuum leak. I took it out flipped it around and it’s smooth running and no lights took it 600 miles even after and nothing wrong with it.
My issue is the oil cap getting suck but there's no lots of pressure so I can take it out but once I take it out, it start to idle horrible and shake like crazy.
HumbleMechanic I figured this much lol thank you. I appreciate the reply. Thanks for all the videos man. They have came in “clutch” in some difficult positions.....no pun intended lol
Oh!! Also, do you have any links to some catch cans for the same vehicle? I was thinking of going in that direction. But I don’t have much experience with them. And I haven’t seen to many tutorials on the BDF
My 2.0l tsi mk6 started having a really rough idle in "D" and "R" mode....once in "P" park the idle wouldnt be as BAD but if i lift the dip stick that rough idle stops plus my car is burning very rich....so im guessing i need a new PCV vavle ??
+HumbleMechanic thanks for the reply, i also checked and i have a leak on that pipe line that goes from the PCV vavle to the intake ... do you recommend a new pcv unit plus pipe? double viewed the video and on minut 2:99 to 3:03 thats whats happening on mine, there's a vacuum leak there too
Hey Humble Mechanic, What are you thoughts on replacing just the valve and not the whole valve cover? I've seen a PCV Valve Repair Kit on a trusted VW/Audi parts site.
I have heard mixed things. From DIYer, they say it's great. From shops they say, generally not always, the valve only is not great. IF I was going to do mine, I might try the valve only, with the understanding that it may not be a long term solution.
I broke my PCV hose the other day when changing the valve cover, I went to get one at the junkyard today to get a hose and it looks like the throttle body has to come off to replace that hose, has anyone ever changed it without removing throttle body? I taped mine for now with electrical tape and it's driving normal.
Thanks for all of your insight! I am stumped here. I have a 2010 VW Jetta SE 2.5L. I changed the Pressure/Temp sensor a few times, replaced the pcv valve, and last resort, even bought and replaced the entire valve cover. Somehow, I keep getting the P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance and P2188 System too rich at Idle Bank 1. It seems to only happen when it's in the lower 40's and 30's. It seems to be completely fine when it's in the 50's and warmer. Whenever the code turns on, I take it all apart and look in the manifold where the sensor is and there is oil in there. It seems to still be coming from the PCV even after replacing the entire cover. My biggest curiosity is this. I have been using 0W40 by Mobil oil because Mobil oil claims that is the correct viscosity. Could it be possible that it is getting into the manifold when it's so cold outside because I need to be using 5W40 instead of 0W40?
+HumbleMechanic -----Hi, I am a diy'er but by no means a mechanic!-----and very confused after watching that video------why is he talking about removing the valve cover to replace the PCV?-----all i did was just remove and replace the PCV on my 2010 Beetle 2.5L engine code=BPR I have the same symptoms and the engine light on w/(bank 1 engine too lean code) but the PCV looked good and a new one did not fix the occasional going dead when stopping. The RPM's seem to me to be too low at idle.(seems like the hotter the engine gets the lower the rpm's are at idle.) I don't have a machine to be exact but the gauge looks to read them at about 500-600? But on the first cold crank of the day, it is scary loud sounding revved-up high idle!---- until it dies down. (sounds to me just like my old 79 vw engines CHOKE used to sound!) Anyway, is there a way to simply adjust the idle RPM's, or would you know what else it might be? I did just order a cheap knock off version VAG-com machine that's supposed to read all codes and allow me to perform some test on this model/year car.----Maybe i will be able to learn how to use the thing now!lol Thanks for any help at all!
Hey i just got a problem with my rabbit 2.5 and i just replace the pcv valve and and still have sams problem so do i have to replace the whole cover ? i tough my problem will be solved a soon i replaced my valve but i guess not and also i got the codes 2279 and 0171 somebody can help me any help will be appreciate thanks
Hello Humble mechanic man " Can you help " I've got a vw crafter campervan 35blue tdi 136l , 2.461cc 2011 model, Even though it went through the MOT its always been to Smokey, BLACK, it drives ok , the experts down the pub tell me it could be the Mass air flow meter sensor " or the EGR valve , Don't want to go to vw garage , as I've already got a mortgage , Can you help.
I have a 2012 Tiguan that has the 2.0 TSI that I recently replaced the PCV assembly using the newest part number from the dealer. I replaced it because I was getting an audible sound from the PCV and it was impossible to loosen the oil cap from the car while the engine was running. I don't have the audible noise any more but I still cannot loosen the oil cap and never had a check engine light. Should I ignore what appers to me to still be potentially high crankcase pressure since I didn't and still don't have a check engine light or do I still have a problem. I spoke to my service advisor and he seemed clueless about my inquiry. He thought if there was no check engine light, there's no problem. I don't want to blow a rear main seal at the most inopportune time and risk damaging my engine due to oil loss.
Hi, this seems like the same problem my Vauxhall Astra 1.6 Twinport Z16xep has, the whistling noise and vacuum. Well, I ordered a third party Diaphragm Valve and will try to replace it as I want to try that before buying the whole cam shaft cover. Did you ever replaced this thing on a Z16xep , what do you think about that idea? Also, I got one suggestion which means that if that doesn't work, I should try the following: "Another option could be to fit a pcv valve inline on the pipe that goes to the camcover diaphragm." What do you think about that? Thx, great channel!
I have a 2012 passat with this 2.5L 5 cylinder engine. I keep getting a P0106 code. I've replaced the map sensor twice now and the pcv diaphragm also but the code keeps coming back. Can anyone help me with suggestions on what the problem could be? There is oil on the map sensor everytime I replace it. Does that mean an oil leak in the intake manifold, meaning 8 have to replace the intake manifold gaskets?
Hello Again, last week changed Vacuum Pump watching your video thought it will solve the leak issue. waited a week still getting a tiny drop on the floor less than a penny size. underbody car washed, cleaned it manually , still getting that single drop on the floor. by carefully watching , i see its coming out of the main seal, do you think replacing the pcv valve cover will stop this minor leak due to inadequate pressure ? i have no check engine sign or codes ,whistles stuff like that, my car is Jetta 2009 2.5 120k miles, never replaced pvc. waiting for your response . Will go tomorrow to DAP for oil change was thinking to pick up the pvc value . Just hoping fix the issue without bothering the seal . i got a pic of the leak dont know how to paste it here.
I have a 2010 beetle with 2.5l pzev and the other day I was driving when all the sudden a sound similar to 10 cats being murdered was coming from under my hood (very loud whistling sound) and my idle was bouncing about 1000-2000 rpms. Check engine light has been on and I had it checked and it shows as a evap leak and the idle has always been a little rough but nothing like this. I pulled over into a farm store and the man working there came out and asked if that was my car making that noise, I said yes and he said he could hear me from like 6 blocks away. Do you think this could be a PCV issue? The car wasn't over heating or anything it was just showing the symptoms I previously stated. I haven't driven the car since (2 days ago). Thanks for any insight.
My cars PCV valve assembly has a 2 pin connector and a round heating element inside... Whats the purpose of the heating element ??? My car is a 2004 "6L" Seat Ibiza 1.4 lt 16v 101ps "BBZ" engine... (like VW Polo "9N" and Skoda Fabia "6Y") Yeap... never imported in US... but this/these a very common cars here in my country...
I have a 2006 Jetta 2.5 and it has recently had an issue with the engine idling roughly and revving up and down when its in park or neutral causing the check engine light to come on. The codes shows up as P0171, P2279, and P0507. I took it to a professional mechanic to do a full diagnostic and he told me that it was a vacuum leak due to the PCV valve going bad. They don't have any parts for it so I don't know how much it will cost to get the problem fixed. Is their anywhere else besides the dealership I can take it to to get it fixed or find the parts for it?
So I replaced the diaphragm last year instead of the entire valve cover unit. but I started to have an issue, p2279 intake leak, and map sensor. so I pulled the map sensor back out and boom still covered in oil again after a good cleaning 7000k miles later. so do I need to replace the entire unit you think? is there a hidden piece up in the valve cover that is failing causing these issues?
Awesome video! Can the HumbleMechanic or anyone help guide me? Here we go: 2013 2.5 SE Automatic/ 60k miles *turned it on and chuckled horribly to start *weird smell emitted *found orange substance on muffler tip and floor *later that night I checked fluid levels and all checked out fine except the oil dipstick was completely DRY. Checked it 3 times after letting it sit and cool down on level service and still DRY *took it in to VW dealer and they found not faults (vag computer)/ no leaks/ but they suggested I replace the valve cover like in this video *hesitant to do so symptoms of a failing valve cover are not present (rough idle/ whistle sound/ check engine lights) etc... *they quoted me $530+ tax to replace valve cover but does a bad valve cover cause for the original problem I took it in (rough chuckled start-organge fluid from muffler tip-low oil level in engine to a completely dry dipstick) ... thoughts guys? What approach should I take? Also is it customary to pay the diagnostic fee if they didn't find a diagnosis but think it might be the valve cover? Really need some guidance fellas :(
Hello humble Mechanic. i appreciate your video. after watch you video, i checked my diaphram and it is turn, i glued the turned part cos i cant get one to buy. i made order from ebay and its yet to arrive. my check engine light is on and i get the error code p0300, p0301 and p0608. please advice
Wanted to say thank you for the video. I bought a sweet '09 Jetta last month. Mint condition, low miles and super clean, but got an incredible deal because the dealer couldn't fix the mind jarring whistle that seemed to be a cooling fan issue. I got the car home and replaced the fan then headed off for a 600 mile vaca. 10 miles down the road, the sound returned. It would only start when the engine reached a specific temp I observed. I found your video after I reached my destination, found a replacement diaphram, and had the car fixed within minutes. There was a 1/2" tear that was apparently seeping hot air, much to the effect of a pressure cooker. So simple. This also resolved the car's slightly rough idle. Know too that the codes that I received when diagnosed matched each that you mentioned. I am not one to comment or post, but I wanted to take a moment to give you a nod for helping me figure this out. Best of luck to you and your channel.
I've seen plenty of these fail; the dorman diaphram replacement isn't oem but works decent on the first one I did the owner has 20k miles and no return of the symptoms. I really enjoy your videos and how you give options to diagnose without vagcom or such. Thumbs up !
A torn diaphragm will allow oil into the throttle body and dirty up the MAP sensor which results in a P0106 code.
Yup but the diaphragm replacement did not work. Now i will replace the valve cover.
@@Ciscorios28 did that work?
Do you mean the MAP (Mass Air Flow Sensor) instead of the MAP sensor?
@@boomerguy9935 there is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor just behind the throttle body that gets clogged with oil when the diaphragm inside the PCV valve tears. The P0106 code says the Mass Air Flow sensor is culprit, but replacing that sensor did nothing for my engine. Found a video that said to clean or replace the MAP sensor and replace the PCV valve and that fixed it for me, but only for a few months because the cheap OReilly PCV valve failed. I replaced the PCV a second time with an OEM valve and I have not had the P0106 since. While you have the throttle body removed you will want to reach inside the intake an soak up as much oil as you can that leaked through the torn diaphragm. th-cam.com/video/S-EguzA5FHI/w-d-xo.html&feature=share
@@richardbrown4816 Thanks for the extra info! Even though I'm 71 years old, I still love to learn and perform as much DIY maintenance as I can.
YOU THE MAN!! I've been chasing an intake leak for weeks. I had no clue that that wasn't supposed to suck air like that. I just bought the 08 beetle for my daughter. I put the p2279 code in the search and your video popped up!
SWEET!!!! Glad to help
Thanks! Great ideas to quick test.
THANK YOU!!!!
Am I the only one that thinks the 2.5 inline 5 is an underrated base motor? I mean... 150 to 170 hp, and 170 ft/lbs of torque? not exactly slow... and quite a reliable engine too.
I've been driving one for 210K. Still strong.. It's a 2005.5 and had the timing chain issue at 60K but since then, tires, oil, brakes, AC blower motor. It burns a fair amount of oil (I run full high mileage synthetic) but doesn't leak or smoke. The torque eases the hassle of manual transmission in slowing/speed up highway situations because you can leave it in 5th gear all the way down to 20mph and have the power to pull back out. So, yes, I agree. The 2.5 sounds like a vacuum cleaner when you rev it but on back roads, it feels very torque-y. Plenty of sack at 70MPH without downshifting.
I just picked one up 2 weeks ago. I'm very impressed with it so far. Although, I am watching this video right now hahah.
great engine. Audi has been using variations of it for years and it has crazy power potential. The intake track is definitely the weak link. I wish it had higher compression too. Those "features" make it a great motor to turbo-charge though.
Integrated engineering created a SRI manifold and have developed the software to remove the transmission rpm limiter to take full advantage of stage 2. It'll put out 215hp and 200 TQ. Do that with BFI engine mounts plus their intake of course and you got a borderline sleepy with spirited drive and beautiful sound. Of course a performance exhaust helps or go with the valve switch.
@@jwinslow5661 My wife's 2008 Rabbit... 115k miles and no issues. I just change the oil and spark plugs. Super reliable. My 2.5 Sportwagen - rock solid. 70k miles and still going with no issues. I've done all the work on both cars myself - has saved me a lot of money in VW service fees. I'm an Audi fanatic as well... and these 07k engines can be picked up quickly - turbo'd... and swapped into older Audis. Enjoy: th-cam.com/video/pzddfJwaseQ/w-d-xo.html
Love the videos. Question. I have an erratic idle. I blocked off the hose from the valve cover to the intake and the idle smoothed out. I verified the pcv diaphragm was ripped. I replaced the valve cover and still have erratic idle. Did I get a bad pcv valve? I did unhook the mass airflow sensor and it smoothed out. Thanks
Vid was a big help, but just love how it was made easy to remove for filming after the little tang notches were broken off so it looks like it simply pulls right off.
Just replacing the pcV diaphragm is a temporary fix if you are experiencing a code P0106. Code will return for most cars & cause your car to run bad. Best fix solution for a code P0106 is replacing the entire valve cover, cleaning out the PCV hose leading to the intake, wiping down the intake manifold free from the oil excess, cleaning your MAP sensor and cleaning your throttle body.
Did you have excessive burning oil?
@@miguelpernalete hi Miguel. I did not. I am curretly using castrol 5w-40 high milage oil.
Check your air filter. These engines tend to get hot....so you need to use 5w-40.
Have a done a tune up yet?
@@miguelpernalete Also, check your intake manifold bolts..they are 6mm. You would need a long hex 6mm or a torx 40. Do not over tightened as it is plastic. These tend to come loose. Hope this helps Friend!
@alfredbernal8603 I don't have any issues no trouble codes no misfire. The only thing Is that on long drives 30 miles and up at 70 mph It burns oil. Yesterday I look inside the intake and it have oil traces and the hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake have oil too. I am using 5w30 motul
@@miguelpernalete is your jetta a cylinder? If it is, you should be using 5w-40 Friend.
How much vacuum is supposed to be on the crank case? I pull the oil cap and it dies. New valve cover with PVC valve and its pulling a lot of vacume.
Thanks for mentioning how to find the REAL sponsers of the day, cause there are some pretty good fakes out there. That was a horrible experience with that b5 purge valve. Thanks for the help!
Do you have a video for 2.5 p050a cold start iac performance?
Thank you for the videos… can you tell how to remove heat control in dash … vacuum leak
Nice video. Just buy the PCV rebuild kit on ebay. Job finished in an hour or less. Easy and cheap. Simple job, you leave the valve cover in pace. I had to clean up the flashing on the new molded diaphragm cap. Took a minute or two for that
I think the diaphragms that fail are now available aftermarket. One problem with those is that you normally need a new cover. I forget how much that is but I had one replaced on a 2006 Jetta 2.5 and at that time the part I really needed was only available as the valve cover. The worst thing about that other than the price is throwing away an otherwise good valve cover.
I’ve not had any luck with those lasting
Are there any other places oil could potentially leak besides the valve cover and vacuum pump on a 2.5 engine?
I was going to replace just the PCV valve until I saw this video and the DIY video on replacing the valve cover. My valve cover is "sweating" around the perimeter, so I'll replace the whole unit for complete peace of mind. DAP has a very low price on them right now with free shipping.
From one DIYer to another. If you want to save even more money go to amazon. OME Valve Cover for $105 & Aftermarket for $74 & free shipping. I own a 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 & get all my parts on Amazon & haven't had any problems. A few months ago my throttle body went out & was gonna get it locally for $400. Luckily I checked Amazon & they had some for $55. So I installed that & its worked great. Just wanted to throw it out there if you want to check it out in the future. Also Amazon's return service is great.
Thanks for the video. I replaced the diaphragm and my check engine light has stayed off.
If VW Parts fail, Renault Parts fails three times! P.S.: We own a Pontiac and a Volvo and a VW; the Pontiac needs the most repairs, the Volks not much, the beautiful Volvo almost nothing...
Would a leak in the valve cover cause air suction though the oil dipstick tube?
Is some suction when removing the oil cap while the engine is running normal? Its not preventing me from pulling it but I can hear it sucking. Very slight pull.
The diaphragm is made of silicone right? I think the failure could be mitigated if the spring was seated on nylon, or some sort of flat washer vice directly on the silicone. I think with cycling stresses and small contact area (higher pressure point) caused this failure.
@kcotte59 thank you mister
@kcotte59 or misses
Thanks for the video, can I just replace the gasket, or I have to replace the whole thing?
08 new beetle...cooling fan stuck on high speed. Sometimes, when stopping starting driving, fan dives to normal, then immediately goes back to sustained hi speed op. What do you think...?
Hey humble mechanic, awesome information thanks for the video!
I was attempting to replace my plugs this weekend, and found the valve cover to be sweating from the sides. I also found oil in the ignition coil connector rail, and when I took the coils out they were covered in oil. Should replace the entire valve cover + coils or just the gasket )and clean the coils?
Surprisingly I have no engine codes, just a bit of hesitation on full throttle though. Thanks!
I’d do the valve cover and coils. Be sure to clean any oil out of the connectors.
Thanks and much appreciated! Looking fwd to more MK5 GTI repair video's btw :) Keep up the good work - Cheers!
Just replaced this at 180K kms after finding engine oil getting inside my ignition coils. Replaced with a Vaico brand, hope it holds up
Hey humblemechanic, will excess oil consumption also be a sign of something failing within the PCV valve or valve cover? I find that my Jetta burns alot of oil and read that this might be the issue.
Hi, I just replaced this and cleaned the maf but the car won’t start now! Could it be the maf sensor that also is bad?
Hi HumbleMechanic, do you know what can cause oil consumption problem on 2.5L? Currently have about 115k on my 07 rabbit and directly after my last oil change I started consuming about 1 quart per 1000 miles. Compression test came back good in all cylinders, no leaking fluids, all cylinders were clear of oil residue except one, has a newer untorn pcv diaphram kit, and when I remove the pcv diaphram with the vehicle off there looks to be a decent amount of oil in there. Could my issue be caused by the valve cover?
I have a 2010 vw beetle 2.5 automatic. How long does this assembly generally last?
Can you just replace the pcv diaphragm without having to swap out the valve cover w/pcv?
Wise Matic yes there's a video of it on TH-cam by rkxtech..... they also sell the pvc
I've replaced the valve cover on my 2012 VW Passat 2.5 and a week later I still found oil dripping on the MAP sensor. After a month of cleaning it several times i bought a Ensun PCV Diaphragm repair kit and installed it. Now its making a whistle/squeal sound when the engine idles or when i'm at 1500 to 2000 RPMS. I am getting really frustrated with this car.
Don't buy a $5 diaphragm repair kit. In almost all cases it never works. Dutch auto parts has a video about it on how they only sell the whole valve cover with new PCV. They don't sell that $5 kit that does not work. You replaced your valve cover gasket which is a first good step. You still have oil dripping on your barometric sensor not MAF. Next step is to install an oil catch can. Look on VW Forum about installing oil catch can. I bought a small generic oil catch can for less the $20. Make sure that is has a baffle in it. I installed it my self and bought PCV/ECC hose from napa and 2 hose clamps. Reused original clip on fitting from pcv and throttle body fitting to new hoses. Most of oil and water is being captured by the catch can that I dispose of the fluid once a week. My VW 2012 Golf 2.5L is about reach 92 K. My third and final step is to remove intake plenum, clean plenum, throttle body, Barometric sensor (its like you'r MAF sensor). Blast intake runners ( intake valve's with soft Walnut Shell Blast Media). Typically dealer want's about $1k for a job like this that I can due easily for less than$100 my self. All direct injection vehicle are having carbon build up on intake runners. Most of vehicle are starting to come with catch can already from the dealer. VW does not have a fix for this. Catch can i like putting a band aid over a wound that will not stop bleeding. I hope that I explained some of this to you.
Hey Guys, when replacing the valve cover, do we need to apply a specific torque to the screws? Or should I tighten up the screws until I feel they are tight enough?
Any suggestions? Many thanks for the good word.
10 newton meters on each screw - have to do it in a pattern that is provided with the valve cover. Do not tighten beyond 10 NM as this will warp the plastic cover and it will leak oil.
The ways to diagnose and possible codes are very helpful, thanks!
Quick question, if I have to replace the gasket, is it to just replace the whole gasket cover or would that be spending extra money just because?
Any other 2010s issues with the Jetta SE 2.5 that we should look into? Thanks for the video? Or common issues found in these engines?
Little late to the party but I'm driving a 2009 2.5 jetta and it is running strong at 173k, only problem we've had is a known valve body issue and hard shifts, after it got fixed, runs just fine
Good info. I'm thinking about replacing my Golf 2.5L valve cover as I found some oil on the 2nd coil & top of the hole. Do I need to use a sealant when replacing the valve cover? Thanks!
Can this cause a rattling noise like a rod knock when idling on the 1.8tsi. As soon as the rpm rises a little bit the noise is gone?
Will this cause a misfire on cyl 5 P0305?
Do you recommend changing the whole valve cover just the pcv valve? I've seen they sell the pcv valve on amazon not the whole piece
Change the valve cover i changed the PC diaphragm and leaked after 2 months.
@HumbleMechanic I understand that the PCV valve only works by sending air flow in only one direction, I have already changed the membrane of my PCV and it has air flow in both directions, is it normal?
How about doing a video on the 2.8 VR6 12V pcv valve, part number 7M0128101 ? This part is obsolete! I need a new part, a workaround, an improved part, or a substitute pcv valve for my '96 Passat GLX wagon. It's suffering from a rough idle, and there is a hissing noise coming from this valve. This part also appears on many other VWs of similar vintage.
I checked the diaprhragm on mine, looks good from inside. But my car is a 2012 gti and is leaking from underneath the pcv, I am going to replace the whole think and hope for the best
could a bad pcv valve cause smoking out the exhaust? my 2.5 is burning oil :( I havent had time to compression test yet was hoping this would be a fix one day on the highway it just started smoking hard and i pulled over it almost had no oil left! had to tow it home haven't looked at it since
What did you figure out? Mine just did the same thing. Runs great and then starts blowing oil out of nowhere.
@@craigpeate8972 i compression tested the motor and got good results, so i replaced the valve cover ordered a oem one from amazon. seems to be fine now *knock on wood* hope it doesn't come back.. I did try to open the old pcv i damaged the clips but upon opening it the diaphragm was trashed. id say get a new valve cover and hope for the best
@@domp1062 Thanks for the update. I replaced my diaphram tonight. Makes me wonder if it isn't something in the valve cover though. Fingers crossed.
@@craigpeate8972 no worries let me know if it fixed it, im waiting to get rabbit insured again so i can do a longer test drive but it has ran for over an hour in my driveway and i took it around the block a couple times after warming up didnt see it smoke!
Can this part leak oil in your manifold sensor ?
Which manifold sensor?
@@HumbleMechanic The Intake abs pressure (MAP) sensor? My dealer said the valve cover needed to be replaced when replacing the Intake abs pressure sensor or the sensor would just fail again. Haven't picked my car back up yet to look but I was thinking the diaphragm would be the culprit and after replacing that, it should prevent the new intake abs pressure (MAP) sensor from getting coated with oil?
HumbleMechanic he’s referring to the MAF sensor or MAP sensor. Yes it can leak oil into that sensor and cause a failure code P0106! Please check your sensor and PCV valve diaphram! If any mechanic says you need to replace your throttle body or valve cover make sure that the symptoms are not something SMALLER! To replace those part (throttle body w/ gasket 450$) (valve cover w/gasket 230$) would be crazy if it’s just the pcv valve (20-35$) or your MAF/P Sensor (30-60$) *yes prices are accurate to current yr pricing* (all part quoted are from CAR ID)
Would this maybe fix the P2450 code?
is that the oil separator
QUESTION: What am I missing?
I may have been searching in the wrong place, but Im having issues with rough idle and a miss in several cylinders. While trying to find the reason I realized it ran fine with the MAF disconnected and the engine running off of map, but as soon as I plugged it back in, the same thing happened again. because of the low idle I looked into the PCV and sure enough it had torn. replaced it and still have the same issue..... I did the PCV checks in the video and it looks like the PCV is working correctly now. I tryed replacing bother the MAF and the MAP with no luck.
Thanks for the helpful videos! I love the content!
Andrew Sudlow I know you posted this 2 years ago but I had the exact same issue as you did and I found the problem. Maybe my post will help someone else. First of all the PCV diaphragm was torn in my valve cover. I replace the cover just like you did and it made no difference on how it would run. Unplugging the MAF helped but still not right. I could hear something like a vacuum leak still with new valve cover installed but I couldn't find the source of the noise. Unplugging the PCV hose from intake to valve cover and covering the hose would cause the car to run perfectly so I figured it had to be a defective valve cover. I removed the new valve cover to inspect it inside. I couldn't find anything wrong. I then took a flashlight to the engine to look around and that is when I saw the problem. I could see right through a hole on the end of where the cam ladder and cylinder head meet. I guess the vacuum inside the engine was so strong that it sucked the end plug right into the engine leaving a large hole. After replacing the plug and re-installing the valve cover the engine ran perfectly. And yes kotte59, this engine does have both a MAF and a MAP sensor. A lot of engines have both so you might want to look into that before you pretend to know it all.
Charles I have a 1997 Eurovan. I cannot find anything on how the pcv valve works on this thing. It has a vacuum line to it from the EGR solenoid. And just seems to allow constant flow through the PCV valve. Is the vacuum line supposed to open it? Should it just free flow when off the vehicle or should the airflow shut off. Help!!!
Is the diaphragm replaceable?
Yes. It’s held on by clips and is usually a 20-35$ fix (22$ I think online! And 32$ at autozone or auto parts)
@@brettbaffa8652 15 on ebay (.co.uk).
My dad installed the spulen brake booster delete kit and since has had a significant oil leak, upon dismantling oil is pooled on top of the transmission, but under the aluminum cover that is the oil fill neck.. the delete kit installed doesnt show signs of leaks, what is under the aluminum fill neck cover? I notice its secured with a series of torx bolts.. thinking it's that gasket leaking, ever seen that? This 06 Jetta has 275k on it..
I well known problem. seal is leaking. A little trick to replace seal.
same issue 3.2 passat.. whats a good interval timing for de carbonizing the . engine?
I have a 1993 2.5 eurovan . Engine is done where can i find a rebuild kit or what would be a good swap.
Oh man I’m not sure. That’s not a widely supported platform
I changed my plugs in my 2.5 and have oil on the plugs. Should I replace entire valve cover or just the gasket
same doubt here haha
Diaphragm of PCV valve is in very good condition (No crack,no broken) but don't know why oil going to turbo , any cause you know why pcv valve consuming oil?
Thank you for this video. I had a P0299 on my 2011 Audi A5, took it to my mechanic and he replaced the diverter valve. He took it forna spin and engine light came back on. They examined and he said the vent valve collapsed. Is this the same as the pcv valve? He is going to keep it overnight and look at it again tomorrow. Is this a cheap fix? Thank you for your help. I know this video is 3 years old but very much appreciate your feedback
I chage it but it wasnt the problem but i change diaphragm and spring , what else could be the problem ( realenty , aceleration false explotions in cilinder)
Humble youre a Life Saver !!! Just fixed my Jetta Sportswagon a few minutes ago....PCV was the issue Wife came home and told me the semtums and I knew right away what it was ! An all because of YOU 🙌 I watch you're Videos just to Learn new things even if I don't even own the cars lol✊....but I got a question...will the Check Engine Light go Off on its Own or will I Have to Reset it ?...
It’s always better to reset it. But eventually it will go off.
I did seafoam treatment....and then I got the rough idle.....gonna check that vacuum line
the factory pvc cover is better then the Dorman one. you can use a heat gun to heat the tabs up so you dont break them. then use the factory spring and cover with the Dorman valve. My Dorman cover would not seal off, so i put the factory one back on.
So, when you put your finger on the small hole, you have vaccuum or does it blow air out? On my 2.0T it blows air out. is that bad? no check engine light and car runs fine.
If you install the rubber diaohram backwards, can that cause misfires?
Possible I’d guess. Never seen it installed upside down.
I have a 2012 volkswagen jetta 2.5 se and it's making a whistling noise when i open the oil cap you hear a big suction
Will that also cause a miss fire light and a vacuum light
Very possible
Ok thank you
Recently had this go out on my wife's 2.0t Tiguan. Replacing it was easy but then this failed it also pressurized the crankcase and blew out the rear main seal .... not so easy for a dyi repair... so about $1200 later to the dealership and its good as new.
And just a quick question, not sure on the mechanics of catch cans but would one prevent this kind of blow out from happening in the future?
My 09 Rabbit is in right now with a check engine light and i am being told it is from a bad PVC valve. They are telling me their is oil in the manifold because of this and that is causing the sensor that is in there to fail or throw codes. I know I am able to replace the valve cover by myself but my question is they want to drain the oil or clean out the oil that leaked... Is this a necessary step? Could I do it myself. They want $700 for the whole job.
Hey Charles..I got error codes P2279 P0507 P0171 and I was so sure this is the cause..took out PCV valve and no tears..replaced it anyway but I'm still getting very rough idle. When I plug the PCV valve hose with my finger, Idle smooths out. So i'm stumped. What else could the leak be?
Do you have a video like this that covers the same scenario for the 3.6 vr6
What if you have oil in the intake manifold? it is oiling up the MAP sensor. Anyone?
I got the same issue going on with my 3.6 liter. Would it be the same as far as replacing it?
No. Well kinda. If it’s the one that’s part of the valve cover, you need to take the upper intake manifold off
Same here. Dealer wants 1600 to fix. Think I’ll have a go myself instead 👍
great tips. and profesional info. thanks a lot for sharing your great experience.
Hey HumbleMechanic
It usually happens at least once a day but sometimes when I go to start my car it takes like ten seconds of turning over before it finally starts. I tried changing the battery, spark plugs, and sprayed some GDI cleaner through the intake. Do you think this could be causing it? I do not have any check engine lights. I'm told my valve cover gasket is leaking a little. My engine seems to be running lean based on the spark plugs. If this isn't it where should I check next? Maybe the fuel filter?
Hey! I have a 2.5l Jetta and have been doing regular service myself. I was wondering if you have a maintenance schedule that you could point me in the direction to! Great video!
+BCH37501 I can get that information. What mileage are yo u at?
Sweet! Just rolled over 60k
Would a failed PVC Valve cause exhaust pressure? My one is built in system with the crankcase breather and it's electrically controlled. I got a few signs, code P0106 Manifold Absolute pressure/Barometric circuit/range performance, Engine heating so quick within 2-4mins of cold start, p0170 fuel trim bank1, a loud noise from under the engine when started and continues when the engine is warmed up. A hissing sound from around the throttle body when the gas pedal is pressed at higher rmp whiling driving. It struggles to reach between 45-60mph on the motorway. Rough idle, and vibration when idle. I really need help on how to go on with all these symptoms.
Good Video... do you have a video explaining Why Transmission Fail on 07 jetta?
When My dashboard PRND highlight transmission starts falling! Thank you
03 passat annoying P0171 code. Does the 1.8T have the same problem?
+Joe Tristaino Similar issues on that engine, but very different parts. There are a lot of vac lines on the 1.8t that can cause that fault.
So I checked my pvc valve and it’s good no tears but my 2.5l engine has a lot of suction coming from the oil cap. Anywhere I should check ?
Ever figure this out? I have same suction from oil cap and pcv is replaced and checked out good. Please help
Could you also get a p0411 air system “A” with this unit failing?
Btw very informative thank you 👍🏼
I usually don’t say never. But the odds are very low.
I had this happen replaced it and still have a vacuum leak and misfire changed all spark plugs and coil packs cleaned injectors nothing seems to work kinda stuck... throttle body is good and it only runs rough at a idle wether in park or in drive at an idle.
have you tried checking the oxygen sensors or the maf sensor?
José Mariano Díaz Duarte yes, turns out the valve cover I bought they put the rubber diafram in backwards causing a terrible vacuum leak. I took it out flipped it around and it’s smooth running and no lights took it 600 miles even after and nothing wrong with it.
My issue is the oil cap getting suck but there's no lots of pressure so I can take it out but once I take it out, it start to idle horrible and shake like crazy.
The codes that I get are the p0106, p1187 I believe and p0507
Hey Humble Mechanic! I got a question for you. When does the PCV usually fail of mk5 engines around what milage? Thanks again for the great videos.
Mine failed at 175k miles, and now can't get a replacement because they are backordered.
What’s the part number for a pcv valve on a 2003 Jetta vr6 24v BDF? I can’t find one anywhere online.
I know most people HATE the dealer, but this is a time where a quick call can have you what you need.
HumbleMechanic I figured this much lol thank you. I appreciate the reply. Thanks for all the videos man. They have came in “clutch” in some difficult positions.....no pun intended lol
Oh!! Also, do you have any links to some catch cans for the same vehicle? I was thinking of going in that direction. But I don’t have much experience with them. And I haven’t seen to many tutorials on the BDF
First vid I watched of u, answered my question instantly. I liked and threw all my fingers on the subscribe button 🤣🤣🤣thanx broskie
My 2.0l tsi mk6 started having a really rough idle in "D" and "R" mode....once in "P" park the idle wouldnt be as BAD but if i lift the dip stick that rough idle stops plus my car is burning very rich....so im guessing i need a new PCV vavle ??
+Shimisho111 That could be an issue
+HumbleMechanic thanks for the reply, i also checked and i have a leak on that pipe line that goes from the PCV vavle to the intake ... do you recommend a new pcv unit plus pipe? double viewed the video and on minut 2:99 to 3:03 thats whats happening on mine, there's a vacuum leak there too
Hey Humble Mechanic, What are you thoughts on replacing just the valve and not the whole valve cover? I've seen a PCV Valve Repair Kit on a trusted VW/Audi parts site.
I have heard mixed things. From DIYer, they say it's great. From shops they say, generally not always, the valve only is not great.
IF I was going to do mine, I might try the valve only, with the understanding that it may not be a long term solution.
@@HumbleMechanic LOL; eff king VW does it again.
I broke my PCV hose the other day when changing the valve cover, I went to get one at the junkyard today to get a hose and it looks like the throttle body has to come off to replace that hose, has anyone ever changed it without removing throttle body? I taped mine for now with electrical tape and it's driving normal.
Thanks for all of your insight! I am stumped here. I have a 2010 VW Jetta SE 2.5L. I changed the Pressure/Temp sensor a few times, replaced the pcv valve, and last resort, even bought and replaced the entire valve cover. Somehow, I keep getting the P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance and P2188 System too rich at Idle Bank 1.
It seems to only happen when it's in the lower 40's and 30's. It seems to be completely fine when it's in the 50's and warmer. Whenever the code turns on, I take it all apart and look in the manifold where the sensor is and there is oil in there. It seems to still be coming from the PCV even after replacing the entire cover. My biggest curiosity is this. I have been using 0W40 by Mobil oil because Mobil oil claims that is the correct viscosity. Could it be possible that it is getting into the manifold when it's so cold outside because I need to be using 5W40 instead of 0W40?
You must have a bad seal somewhere.
Great video! Do you happen to have a DIY for a valve cover gasket on a 3.2 VR6?
+Lazaro Carreiro I don't. That is a pretty good sized job. If it's on a Passat, you will need to put the car in service position.
+HumbleMechanic -----Hi, I am a diy'er but by no means a mechanic!-----and very confused after watching that video------why is he talking about removing the valve cover to replace the PCV?-----all i did was just remove and replace the PCV on my 2010 Beetle 2.5L engine code=BPR
I have the same symptoms and the engine light on w/(bank 1 engine too lean code) but the PCV looked good and a new one did not fix the occasional going dead when stopping.
The RPM's seem to me to be too low at idle.(seems like the hotter the engine gets the lower the rpm's are at idle.) I don't have a machine to be exact but the gauge looks to read them at about 500-600? But on the first cold crank of the day, it is scary loud sounding revved-up high idle!---- until it dies down. (sounds to me just like my old 79 vw engines CHOKE used to sound!)
Anyway, is there a way to simply adjust the idle RPM's, or would you know what else it might be?
I did just order a cheap knock off version VAG-com machine that's supposed to read all codes and allow me to perform some test on this model/year car.----Maybe i will be able to learn how to use the thing now!lol
Thanks for any help at all!
Hey i just got a problem with my rabbit 2.5 and i just replace the pcv valve and and still have sams problem so do i have to replace the whole cover ? i tough my problem will be solved a soon i replaced my valve but i guess not and also i got the codes 2279 and 0171 somebody can help me any help will be appreciate thanks
Hello Humble mechanic man " Can you help " I've got a vw crafter campervan 35blue tdi 136l , 2.461cc 2011 model, Even though it went through the MOT its always been to Smokey, BLACK, it drives ok , the experts down the pub tell me it could be the Mass air flow meter sensor " or the EGR valve , Don't want to go to vw garage , as I've already got a mortgage , Can you help.
I have a 2012 Tiguan that has the 2.0 TSI that I recently replaced the PCV assembly using the newest part number from the dealer. I replaced it because I was getting an audible sound from the PCV and it was impossible to loosen the oil cap from the car while the engine was running. I don't have the audible noise any more but I still cannot loosen the oil cap and never had a check engine light. Should I ignore what appers to me to still be potentially high crankcase pressure since I didn't and still don't have a check engine light or do I still have a problem. I spoke to my service advisor and he seemed clueless about my inquiry. He thought if there was no check engine light, there's no problem. I don't want to blow a rear main seal at the most inopportune time and risk damaging my engine due to oil loss.
Dude... You're not suppose to remove the oil cap while it's runninf.
Hi, this seems like the same problem my Vauxhall Astra 1.6 Twinport Z16xep has, the whistling noise and vacuum. Well, I ordered a third party Diaphragm Valve and will try to replace it as I want to try that before buying the whole cam shaft cover. Did you ever replaced this thing on a Z16xep , what do you think about that idea? Also, I got one suggestion which means that if that doesn't work, I should try the following: "Another option could be to fit a pcv valve inline on the pipe that goes to the camcover diaphragm." What do you think about that? Thx, great channel!
I have a 2012 passat with this 2.5L 5 cylinder engine. I keep getting a P0106 code. I've replaced the map sensor twice now and the pcv diaphragm also but the code keeps coming back. Can anyone help me with suggestions on what the problem could be? There is oil on the map sensor everytime I replace it. Does that mean an oil leak in the intake manifold, meaning 8 have to replace the intake manifold gaskets?
Try cleaning the throttle body.
Hello Again, last week changed Vacuum Pump watching your video thought it will solve the leak issue. waited a week still getting a tiny drop on the floor less than a penny size. underbody car washed, cleaned it manually , still getting that single drop on the floor. by carefully watching , i see its coming out of the main seal, do you think replacing the pcv valve cover will stop this minor leak due to inadequate pressure ?
i have no check engine sign or codes ,whistles stuff like that, my car is Jetta 2009 2.5 120k miles, never replaced pvc. waiting for your response . Will go tomorrow to DAP for oil change was thinking to pick up the pvc value . Just hoping fix the issue without bothering the seal . i got a pic of the leak dont know how to paste it here.
TheManzoormd any updates on the leak ?
@@ShinyOwl not significant but i just sthe rear main seal wet .
I have a 2010 beetle with 2.5l pzev and the other day I was driving when all the sudden a sound similar to 10 cats being murdered was coming from under my hood (very loud whistling sound) and my idle was bouncing about 1000-2000 rpms. Check engine light has been on and I had it checked and it shows as a evap leak and the idle has always been a little rough but nothing like this. I pulled over into a farm store and the man working there came out and asked if that was my car making that noise, I said yes and he said he could hear me from like 6 blocks away. Do you think this could be a PCV issue? The car wasn't over heating or anything it was just showing the symptoms I previously stated. I haven't driven the car since (2 days ago). Thanks for any insight.
My cars PCV valve assembly has a 2 pin connector and a round heating element inside...
Whats the purpose of the heating element ???
My car is a 2004 "6L" Seat Ibiza 1.4 lt 16v 101ps "BBZ" engine... (like VW Polo "9N" and Skoda Fabia "6Y")
Yeap... never imported in US... but this/these a very common cars here in my country...
Does anyone know the torque spec for the valve cover bolts?
It has to be done in a specific pattern so Google it or buy a Haynes manual.
I have a 2006 Jetta 2.5 and it has recently had an issue with the engine idling roughly and revving up and down when its in park or neutral causing the check engine light to come on. The codes shows up as P0171, P2279, and P0507. I took it to a professional mechanic to do a full diagnostic and he told me that it was a vacuum leak due to the PCV valve going bad. They don't have any parts for it so I don't know how much it will cost to get the problem fixed. Is their anywhere else besides the dealership I can take it to to get it fixed or find the parts for it?
Ethan Smith same thing on mine..just buy a pcv valve n change it n clean mas sensor n clean maps sensor n clean throttle body carefully..easy bro
Jesus Romero thanks
So I replaced the diaphragm last year instead of the entire valve cover unit. but I started to have an issue, p2279 intake leak, and map sensor. so I pulled the map sensor back out and boom still covered in oil again after a good cleaning 7000k miles later. so do I need to replace the entire unit you think? is there a hidden piece up in the valve cover that is failing causing these issues?
It’s your purge solenoid, replace it and don’t top it off when you fill it with gas.
great tutorial!
Awesome video! Can the HumbleMechanic or anyone help guide me? Here we go: 2013 2.5 SE Automatic/ 60k miles
*turned it on and chuckled horribly to start
*weird smell emitted
*found orange substance on muffler tip and floor
*later that night I checked fluid levels and all checked out fine except the oil dipstick was completely DRY. Checked it 3 times after letting it sit and cool down on level service and still DRY
*took it in to VW dealer and they found not faults (vag computer)/ no leaks/ but they suggested I replace the valve cover like in this video
*hesitant to do so symptoms of a failing valve cover are not present (rough idle/ whistle sound/ check engine lights) etc...
*they quoted me $530+ tax to replace valve cover but does a bad valve cover cause for the original problem I took it in (rough chuckled start-organge fluid from muffler tip-low oil level in engine to a completely dry dipstick) ... thoughts guys? What approach should I take? Also is it customary to pay the diagnostic fee if they didn't find a diagnosis but think it might be the valve cover? Really need some guidance fellas :(
Does it happen after you pump gas too?
Hello humble Mechanic. i appreciate your video. after watch you video, i checked my diaphram and it is turn, i glued the turned part cos i cant get one to buy. i made order from ebay and its yet to arrive. my check engine light is on and i get the error code p0300, p0301 and p0608. please advice