I dropped mine down to 14T. In colder weather it was too high and I would stall out on take off. That and adjusted the clutch lever to have more play. Long live the KLR.
Have to say you do some excellent videos. Minor point, 16T is 6.66666% larger than 15T, so would reduce RPM by that percentage. 5000RPM at 70 comes down 333Rpm to 4666. It is a big help though as many "oil burner" KLRs do so above 5K RPM. The 16T lets it run 75MPH on western freeways without the extra oil burn.
You are an amazing and knowledgeable person, wow, I’ve owned a KLR since 2011 and you have taught more than what the dealer has explained to me and my own research as well. Thank you again, stay safe and ride on Sir !
Great information and comprehensive. I have a 2018 KLR. Have ridden it all across my home state, Alaska, both cruising the highways and some off-road. I'm 62 so I don't go to crazy like when I was a young buck. I carry a 14, 15, and 16 tooth with me and can swap out depending on circumstances. Your video is concise and to the point. Instant LIKE and SUBSCRIBE!
Thinking of doing the same if I buy a KLR. Thinking that since it's far from my house to visit one of the areas where a BDR starts that I'll either need to trailer the bike or change gearing. Run the 16T on the hiway, change to a 14T when I get to the riding area. Problem is bringing a torque wrench along for the trip or find a shop so they do it for me. X2. But would it be wise to run double master links if the chain adjuster can't compensate for a 2 tooth change. Each tooth change is supposed to be like adding 3 links so we're talking a chain adjuster that has to allow a 6 link swap. That's more than I think it can handle which is why I'm thinking double master link and a chunk of chain 6 links long or so. Would need to research before a trip. 6th gear would sure be nice. Thinking KLR until I get some offroad experience then a GSA where hiway speeds aren't an issue. Plenty of hiway time, just very little off-road time.
Hey Tim. I bought a Strongway motorcycle lift like the one you use. It is a great addition to the shop especially for us older gentlemen like ourselves. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor. Thanks for the recommend.
Thanks for uploading this video. I just did this to my '14 KLR and it went smoothly thanks to your video. One thing I'd mention is that, after removing the washer and bolt, the front sprocket for me took a bit of elbow grease to get off -a few gentle taps with a crowbar to get the proper leverage. Bike can really stretch its legs on the freeways with that extra tooth.
Great video...just changed my 2017 to a 16 tooth...I ride 80-20 so it looks like a fit...also went with a gold X chain for kicks.....what I appreciate on Tim's video is the torque settings... Very helpful during change...
Thanks for the video. When i had a KLR i did the 16 tooth and i put a taller rear tire on and dropped the RPM a little more ,, from 80 to a 90 sidewall.
Excellent! I am glad you commented to me on your other video with this link. I bought the 16 tooth a couple months ago, but haven't tried it or installed it. That is because unfortunately...it is winter here. It is good to see your thoughts on the 16 confirming what I am hoping to achieve. Thank you for sharing.
I really think it's perfect for any bike that's even been modified to even make any more power. I love the 16th tooth with my 705 Stage 2 set up, plenty of TRQ. Tim your video's are always awesome, I'm still hoping the bug bites you to show you doing an instal of an EBC front 320 mm, I really do.
I put a fmf powercore 4 with a spark arrester on my 2017 dig camo. KLR. Then put the 16 tooth front. It’s fantastic!!! It is louder but bike pulls down low like a freight train anyway if I get in really really tight stuff you can fan clutch a bit. But so far haven’t had too. Every KLR guy I ride with hasthe 16 so 70 mph is like 3600 3700 rpm. Just great. 75 mph is justcomfy 42
Hi Rodney, That sounds like a nice setup you have. The 16T drive sprocket does help. The KLR has plenty of low-end grunt, so you don't loose anything down low. 1st gear still pulls like a tractor. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Another great, informative video Tim. Here's the real test regarding the 16 tooth sprocket: Were you able to make anything out in your mirrors at 65-70 mph? Right now I'm able to ID an object, but no real detail until they're right up on me. Thanks - Jim
I tried more of a street tire than a dirt tire. Vibration changed significantly. It didn't fix all the vibration but now I can make out vehicles in my mirror
FYI, I own a 2008 KLR .Two months ago, bought a 16 T JT SUN sprocket upon installing it found out not all sprockets are created equal ! . Even though it fit perfect on shaft diameter when I tightened down the nut found out the sprocket center mass was not thick enough having only10mm. thickness vs. what it should be at 12mm. To this day have not been able to procure the right thickness sprocket for my KLR, any suggestions are welcome
Good evening friend. 4 years ago I installed in my KLR model 2008 the 16-tooth sproker, and I have enjoyed it a lot these years. This week a friend asked me about this topic, and I spent about 2 hours looking on eBay and Amazon for this same piece and I could not find it. I wrote to the eBay seller who sold it to me last time and I expect a response. If I find it, I will notify you by this means. Att Carlos Franco
I really didn't care much for the 16t, but most of my riding is on hilly two lanes in the mountains. If I knew I would be riding highway for a long distance, I would use it for sure.
don't want to nit-pick, but you really should use some molly grease when installing a new sprocket. one it protects the splines from wear, and two, if you plan on owning your bike for some time, it makes removal that much easier. wrench on!
Your videos are great, although they seem to cost me money! I just ordered the peg lowering kit, and next the Tusk panniers. Bought an '05 from a good friend who has done all the good stuff already, so just a few more details to make it mine. At 68 I should quit buying motorcycles, but been riding since I was 15, so...... Thank's again for what you do. I watch a lot of YT, and you are a stand out for me.
Thanks Tim, I will be leaving mine stock at 15 as I avoid the interstate and freeways as much as I can. I am concerned that scaling a knarly incline the bike will require too much speed to keep the RPMs where then need to be. Like most things in life, everything is a trade off. Great info though for sure.
Yeah if anything for the riding I do I would go to a 14 countershaft there's no way I'm putting this thing out on the interstate on the crappy grooved concrete, and for the off-road riding I've done 15 was too many teeth
At the end of ride or day it’s a night a day difference. Not sure why the engineers didn’t use a 16 it’s better in more ways than one. The ride becomes quieter , smoother, faster, and less fatigue and you can also pull longer in much smoother transition from gear to gear. Personally I think it’s one of the more important and 1st mod to do, it improves generally the whole ride for around 25 bucks. Hey ride is a huge improvement!!
I own a 2022 KLR, its stock. The 16 tooth sounds great! But…I live in California where I ride up hills through the forest roads. I’m 190 lbs, 6’1”, maybe carry 15 lbs of gear in tools, drinks, and stuff in my side cases and the KLR struggles a little to get up those hills. I would be concerned about loosing even more torque. Does anyone have any feedback on going up the summit on a KLR with a 16 tooth set up? Do you notice loosing torque uphill? I know we can down shift but sometimes I like to maintain the faster speed up hill so cars aren’t riding close behind me. That happens now with a 15 tooth uphill on my KLR650.
Watched a lot of videos on the subject and you addressed everything very well. I'm pulling the trigger on this and going to do it. Thank you great job on the video. Check out my video KLR why if you don't mind let me know what you think
Great video and explanation. I'm planning on doing the 16T upgrade with new chain as well. Since moving to Mississippi I'm over 90% pavement riding. Do you have any opinion on going down a tooth in the rear to say a 42 in addition to the 16 in the front?Thanks.
brentagade - Thanks for the question. I don't think a one tooth change on the rear (driven) sprocket would make much of a difference. However, the change would result in slightly higher gearing. If you are riding primarily on roads, I think it would be okay. You can always go back to a 16/43 if you don't like it. If you make the change, let me know how it works. I would be interested to know.
I have a 2016 Ducati scrambler. Stock are 15t front 46t rear. 90% freeway rides 6k rpm at 80mph. I was thinking about 16t front AND 44t rear. I was told for the 44t rear I would need a 2t reduction chain. If I did both would I need a 3t reduction or do you think the 2t chain reduced would be enough. Thanks, Mike.
Hello Tim.......... great videos you do........ did you fold down the tabs on the locking washer!??,......... you never mentioned it and it doesn't look like it was.............. if you did I stand corrected. 🙂🇨🇦👋✌️
Jerrythe coo - Yes, to remove the original nut, I did have to fold the tabs down (flatten the washer). When I installed the new Eagle Mike prevailing torque nut, it did not need the washer. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Hi, based on your description I'm guessing you are talking about the chain tension bolts at the end of the swing arm. If so, here's a link to a Rocky Mountain video on how to repair. th-cam.com/video/o0r5QzP2lJ8/w-d-xo.html They also sell the replacement adjuster bolt kits. If you are missing other parts, check the OEM parts section on www.rockymountainatvmc.com for your bike. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Good videos. Nice detail. Did you find any difference in fuel mileage? Better because of lower RPM or worse as the motor is working harder? What about upper speeds against a wind? Did the 16T still have the power to push against a strong head wind or did you find that you had the throttle maxed to maintain your speed?
On mine I obtained a 5% reduction in fuel consumption even though rpms reduced by 10%. Acceleration was definitely slower however, so if you commute around the city most of the time, keep the stock gearing. If you’re getting up to highway speeds or on a long distance tour, change the sprocket.
I never hear anybody talking about the rear sprocket change it is about a 3 to 1 ratio difference how come nobody just goes two teeth down in the back for maybe a happy in between gear
No difference in the chain length when only changing a few teeth. There is enough adjustment available to accommodate. You will be good with the chain you have. Thanks for watching.
I've got a 14 tooth and run about 4100 rpm at 55 mph. I live in the mountains and 80% of my riding is gravel and trails. If I was a flat lander city boy I'd run a 16 tooth.
Is there any difference if the sprocket is install with the logo facing to the inside?, if you compare OEM with the PD it looks like the thick side goes to the inside, we did that (even though logic says the oposite), but chain aligment is fine. You think that there going to be a future problem with this instalation ? we just installed it... TY. sory to say this, but in the video once to torque the nut you forgot to say that the washer had to be bend to secure the nut...
Did you rebend the washer onto the nut after the torque wrench? I didn't see it in the video, or at least I might have missed it. Very important step, I think.
It is not required to bend the washer over with the prevailing torque nut, but I did just as an extra precaution. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Last thing that should have been done was to bend the Washer tab back up against the Sprocket Nut . As it was before ..... Remember flattening it at 5:11 ... To remove the nut ???? Oops !
I'm thinking about getting one, i use to own a Tengaï back in France, I'm now in Canada and 7200$ for a brand new KLR is a good deal. What about 16 teeth sprocket and 40 on the wheel, do you think it could be too much for the engine?
I just got a klr650. It already has a 16 tooth sprocket conversion. Great for the street but worthless on the trail. Way to tall geared to ride slow trails. I'm going back to the 15 or maybe even a 14. I only ride on the highway to get to the woods to putt around. For that a 16 tooth is way to tall.
Like most people do they spend more time on the road these bike's arnt great on the trail;s to big to heavy etcetcetc like all dual purpose bike's therefore I would even go further and try a 40 tooth on the back as well why not I don't think a 17 tooth sprocket would even fit on the front I don't no maybe that's to much anyway I would try it if possible do they make a 17 tooth
Even if the original chain "fits", isn't the standard practice to use a fresh chain when installing a fresh sprocket, regardless of size?.. chains stretch & wear along with their sprockets
Hi Tim, great videos. Really like your stuff! I installed the rock mtn 16T front and the standard rear sprockets, as well as the 520 X ring primary drive chain they sell. After installing these, I have had significantly more noise coming from the chain. I have already done the doohickey mod and other things, so I am confident I have isolated the problem to something having to do with the "final drive." I installed it the same way you did, and following the manual for reference also.The noise sounds like the chain is slapping something as I accelerate. It's not loose and within spec.. It also sounds like a creaking slapping clicking noise when I corner and accelerate, and when I accelerate on straight-aways. Trying to figure out if I did something wrong, or if the sprocket and chain they sent me are bad.can you let me know if there is anything I should inspect or check to try and figure out what needs to be fixed or replaced on the bike?thanks!
Andrew Lackey - I would check the alignment of the sprockets and chain. It does not take much to cause a noisy ride. You can sometimes tell if the sprockets are showing unusual wear on the sides. If alignment and tension are good, there's not much left. I hope this helps. Let us know what the problem was when you find out.
Tim2Wheels I tightened the chain and the noise 96% has gone away. The problem is I can't find the harmony between too tight and just loose enough to not damage the chain, and to reduce noise to manageable levels I'll play with it some more with the small bolts on both sides that hold the brackets attaching to the drive shaft bolt Maybe it's just my bike and the chain I got but I find it difficult to get the drive chain tension just right for light off road riding
Shaine MacDonald - I have seen people go to a 14T front sprocket for more low end torque on trails, but it could also work for city riding. Just be aware you will trade off some top-end speed. Thanks for the question and for watching.
The 16 tooth will also cause the speedometer to read slower than actual speed, correct? So, the 16t should make more of a difference than you showed in the video. Thanks, Tim2Wheels, the videos are great and very helpful.
Grizzly Adams - Actually the speedometer turns on the front wheel hub, so there should be no change to the reading. thanks for the comment and for watching.
Everyone sits a bike a bit different. You may need lowering links to feel comfortable, or a different "low" seat. The KLR can feel top heavy in my opinion. If you can, I recommend you ride one, before buying, to see how it feels to you. As with any bike, it's all about personal preference. Thanks for watching.
Tony Castro - I would not say the 16 is better than the 15 in dirt. However, it works well for my type of off-road riding. In 1st gear with a 16T, the KLR still has plenty of low-end torque for me. If you feather the clutch when needed, it is not a problem. If you do a lot of climbing, then the 15T (or even a 14T) may be better. The 16T does help on the roads. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
TheCharillz23 I haven't put my 14T on yet (too skinny, need some shims) but that does not sound right. You should only be around 5K or less at 65. It's only a 7% change, a little over 300 rpm.
JustThaor - I'm guessing you mean you don't have a torque wrench? If not, Just tighten it as tight as you can. Bending the washer over the nut will lock it in place. Thanks for watching.
Wade Moulton - Hi Wade, if you are just adding one tooth on the drive (front) sprocket, you can use the stock chain. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Wade Moulton Checkout Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, they have a good selection and prices. I went with the Primary Drive brand for chain and sprockets. Their products are good quality at a fair price point.
Hi Thomas, Luckily the one extra tooth on the drive sprocket doesn't take up much chain space, so it is the same length as the stock chain. In this case it was a 520 size chain by 106 links (520x106). Thanks for the comment and for watching. -Tim
Just put on the 16 tooth and boy howdy my bikes soooo much better on the freeways here in Texas. Thinking about going up a tooth on my rear sprocket but don't know if it'll have enough oomph.
Hey thanks for the info. I've not made changes to the rear sprocket and wondered how it would do. I'll bet going down to 37 on the rear would really help the top-end speed. I'm sure this will be helpful to others here too. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
So let's do the simple math. Changing from a 15 to a 16 is a 6.66% change. So the reduction in rpms at any speed or in any gear will always be 6.66% not 10%. If you were turning 5k at 70 it will now be 4666 rpms, or a 6.66% reduction. Not 4500 rpms. Forget test rides. None are needed. The only time you will have a 5mph difference your motor would have to be spinning at 7500 rpms in fifth gear. 112 mph on a KLR? Good luck.
The 16 tooth front sprocket is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/2105/Primary-Drive-Front-Sprocket The Rear sprocket is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/2192/Primary-Drive-Rear-Steel-Sprocket And the Chain is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/958/2082/Primary-Drive-520-ORH-Gold-X-Ring-Chain
lol. i sometimes do the same. idgaf but now that i have a proper set of impact sockets and torque gun i dont find myself abusing the chrome stuff as much.
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I own a klr 650 I think anyone that does should support this channel!
Donnie Wiggs - Thanks for the comment and for watching.
i put a 14t on mine, its buzzy on the highway but off road i can pick up the front much easy to clear logs.
Yep, the 14 tooth drive gear will give you more low-end grunt. Great for off road.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Tim2Wheels
Big agree! Great info. Thank you for the content Tim.
I dropped mine down to 14T.
In colder weather it was too high and I would stall out on take off.
That and adjusted the clutch lever to have more play. Long live the KLR.
Have to say you do some excellent videos. Minor point, 16T is 6.66666% larger than 15T, so would reduce RPM by that percentage. 5000RPM at 70 comes down 333Rpm to 4666. It is a big help though as many "oil burner" KLRs do so above 5K RPM. The 16T lets it run 75MPH on western freeways without the extra oil burn.
Your videos are really structured and clear. I give your video's a 10 out of 10. Thank you!
You are an amazing and knowledgeable person, wow, I’ve owned a KLR since 2011 and you have taught more than what the dealer has explained to me and my own research as well. Thank you again, stay safe and ride on Sir !
I tried many combinations as I am riding to Tuk from Florida . 16x38 is what I settled with.
Great information and comprehensive. I have a 2018 KLR. Have ridden it all across my home state, Alaska, both cruising the highways and some off-road. I'm 62 so I don't go to crazy like when I was a young buck. I carry a 14, 15, and 16 tooth with me and can swap out depending on circumstances. Your video is concise and to the point. Instant LIKE and SUBSCRIBE!
Thinking of doing the same if I buy a KLR. Thinking that since it's far from my house to visit one of the areas where a BDR starts that I'll either need to trailer the bike or change gearing. Run the 16T on the hiway, change to a 14T when I get to the riding area. Problem is bringing a torque wrench along for the trip or find a shop so they do it for me. X2. But would it be wise to run double master links if the chain adjuster can't compensate for a 2 tooth change. Each tooth change is supposed to be like adding 3 links so we're talking a chain adjuster that has to allow a 6 link swap. That's more than I think it can handle which is why I'm thinking double master link and a chunk of chain 6 links long or so. Would need to research before a trip. 6th gear would sure be nice. Thinking KLR until I get some offroad experience then a GSA where hiway speeds aren't an issue. Plenty of hiway time, just very little off-road time.
Just installed the 16 tooth sprocket today. I'm very pleased with the results. If I had to do it again I would.
Hi Stefan - Thanks for the feedback and for watching.
Great video, Tim. Replacing my chain/sprocket and will go with the 16 tooth.
Hey Tim. I bought a Strongway motorcycle lift like the one you use. It is a great addition to the shop especially for us older gentlemen like ourselves. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor. Thanks for the recommend.
Hi Joe,
I'm glad it's working out for you. Mine continues to serve me well.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Just followed this video to change my chain and put a 16 tooth sprocket on.
It made the job easy peasy.
Thanks a lot! Subscribed!
Hey Bob, I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the sub and for watching.
Thanks for uploading this video. I just did this to my '14 KLR and it went smoothly thanks to your video.
One thing I'd mention is that, after removing the washer and bolt, the front sprocket for me took a bit of elbow grease to get off -a few gentle taps with a crowbar to get the proper leverage.
Bike can really stretch its legs on the freeways with that extra tooth.
Great video...just changed my 2017 to a 16 tooth...I ride 80-20 so it looks like a fit...also went with a gold X chain for kicks.....what I appreciate on Tim's video is the torque settings... Very helpful during change...
Perfect Caught this while deciding on this. You helped a bunch!!! thanks
Thanks for the video. When i had a KLR i did the 16 tooth and i put a taller rear tire on and dropped the RPM a little more ,, from 80 to a 90 sidewall.
Thanks Tim! Great video, I'm contemplating the 16 tooth front sprocket when I service mine this winter.
Interesting, I'll certainly consider this option when I buy my KLR.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Excellent! I am glad you commented to me on your other video with this link. I bought the 16 tooth a couple months ago, but haven't tried it or installed it. That is because unfortunately...it is winter here. It is good to see your thoughts on the 16 confirming what I am hoping to achieve. Thank you for sharing.
I really think it's perfect for any bike that's even been modified to even make any more power. I love the 16th tooth with my 705 Stage 2 set up, plenty of TRQ. Tim your video's are always awesome, I'm still hoping the bug bites you to show you doing an instal of an EBC front 320 mm, I really do.
I just got a 650 and you always get reccomended
I put a fmf powercore 4 with a spark arrester on my 2017 dig camo. KLR. Then put the 16 tooth front. It’s fantastic!!! It is louder but bike pulls down low like a freight train anyway if I get in really really tight stuff you can fan clutch a bit. But so far haven’t had too. Every KLR guy I ride with hasthe 16 so 70 mph is like 3600 3700 rpm. Just great. 75 mph is justcomfy 42
Hi Rodney,
That sounds like a nice setup you have. The 16T drive sprocket does help. The KLR has plenty of low-end grunt, so you don't loose anything down low. 1st gear still pulls like a tractor.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thanks Tim. Great insight and informative.
Thanks for the video. My 16 tooth is in the mail. I have a new 23. I think I'll name it Buzz...
thank you this helped me so much more . honestly not every person here knows what they talking about.
very informative video. I love the 16 tooth on my klr650, heck she still performs great offroad.
Dirt Hammers Dual Sport & Adventures - I agree. I'm liking the 16T. Thanks for the comment.
Another great, informative video Tim. Here's the real test regarding the 16 tooth sprocket: Were you able to make anything out in your mirrors at 65-70 mph? Right now I'm able to ID an object, but no real detail until they're right up on me. Thanks - Jim
No, the mirrors are still too jittery for that. Sometime i can find the sweet spot where they are clear. :) - Thanks for the comment and for watching.
I tried more of a street tire than a dirt tire. Vibration changed significantly. It didn't fix all the vibration but now I can make out vehicles in my mirror
Get a 17 tooth. I was shocked at how easy it was to get that get that chain on that bigger front sprocket
Thanks for the info.
FYI, I own a 2008 KLR .Two months ago, bought a 16 T JT SUN sprocket upon installing it found out not all sprockets are created equal ! . Even though it fit perfect on shaft diameter when I tightened down the nut found out the sprocket center mass was not thick enough having only10mm. thickness vs. what it should be at 12mm. To this day have not been able to procure the right thickness sprocket for my KLR, any suggestions are welcome
Good evening friend. 4 years ago I installed in my KLR model 2008 the 16-tooth sproker, and I have enjoyed it a lot these years. This week a friend asked me about this topic, and I spent about 2 hours looking on eBay and Amazon for this same piece and I could not find it. I wrote to the eBay seller who sold it to me last time and I expect a response. If I find it, I will notify you by this means. Att Carlos Franco
Like the idea of using a clamp to hold the rear brake
I really didn't care much for the 16t, but most of my riding is on hilly two lanes in the mountains. If I knew I would be riding highway for a long distance, I would use it for sure.
mickster boone - Hey thanks for the feedback. It's always good to hear of other's experience. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
don't want to nit-pick, but you really should use some molly grease when installing a new sprocket. one it protects the splines from wear, and two, if you plan on owning your bike for some time, it makes removal that much easier. wrench on!
I appreciate the feedback Sean. I'm always open to better ways to do things. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
For your testing, it would have been nice if you had in also included 0 to 60 testing to show how much difference it made in acceleration.
Thanks for the video. New sub here, just picked up a sweet deal on a 04 klr. Gonna pick up a 16t this week.
Perfect video,very helpful!
Thank you.
Been thinking about, now I'm doing it. Thank's
ron riggs - Thanks for the comment Ron. I think you'll be happy with the change.
Your videos are great, although they seem to cost me money! I just ordered the peg lowering kit, and next the Tusk panniers. Bought an '05 from a good friend who has done all the good stuff already, so just a few more details to make it mine. At 68 I should quit buying motorcycles, but been riding since I was 15, so...... Thank's again for what you do. I watch a lot of YT, and you are a stand out for me.
ron riggs - I know what you mean Ron, my videos cost me moneytoo! :)
Keep riding as long as you can. it's what keeps us young.
Thanks for all your work! I love your channel!
Loooove these videos! Miss ya Tim
Thanks Tim, I will be leaving mine stock at 15 as I avoid the interstate and freeways as much as I can. I am concerned that scaling a knarly incline the bike will require too much speed to keep the RPMs where then need to be. Like most things in life, everything is a trade off. Great info though for sure.
Yeah if anything for the riding I do I would go to a 14 countershaft there's no way I'm putting this thing out on the interstate on the crappy grooved concrete, and for the off-road riding I've done 15 was too many teeth
Do like many others-keep the 15 tooth in a case and change it if you plan on trail riding.
Another excellent how-to video!
Dr. Pinetree - Thanks for the comment and for watching.
At the end of ride or day it’s a night a day difference. Not sure why the engineers didn’t use a 16 it’s better in more ways than one. The ride becomes quieter , smoother, faster, and less fatigue and you can also pull longer in much smoother transition from gear to gear. Personally I think it’s one of the more important and 1st mod to do, it improves generally the whole ride for around 25 bucks. Hey ride is a huge improvement!!
I own a 2022 KLR, its stock. The 16 tooth sounds great! But…I live in California where I ride up hills through the forest roads. I’m 190 lbs, 6’1”, maybe carry 15 lbs of gear in tools, drinks, and stuff in my side cases and the KLR struggles a little to get up those hills. I would be concerned about loosing even more torque. Does anyone have any feedback on going up the summit on a KLR with a 16 tooth set up? Do you notice loosing torque uphill? I know we can down shift but sometimes I like to maintain the faster speed up hill so cars aren’t riding close behind me. That happens now with a 15 tooth uphill on my KLR650.
It will make a huge difference off road in first gead
Really like your video btw. Very very well done sir.
Watched a lot of videos on the subject and you addressed everything very well. I'm pulling the trigger on this and going to do it. Thank you great job on the video. Check out my video KLR why if you don't mind let me know what you think
Great video and explanation. I'm planning on doing the 16T upgrade with new chain as well. Since moving to Mississippi I'm over 90% pavement riding. Do you have any opinion on going down a tooth in the rear to say a 42 in addition to the 16 in the front?Thanks.
brentagade - Thanks for the question. I don't think a one tooth change on the rear (driven) sprocket would make much of a difference. However, the change would result in slightly higher gearing. If you are riding primarily on roads, I think it would be okay. You can always go back to a 16/43 if you don't like it. If you make the change, let me know how it works. I would be interested to know.
Great video, thinking of doing this myself. Subbed. 👍
I have a 2016 Ducati scrambler. Stock are 15t front 46t rear. 90% freeway rides 6k rpm at 80mph. I was thinking about 16t front AND 44t rear. I was told for the 44t rear I would need a 2t reduction chain. If I did both would I need a 3t reduction or do you think the 2t chain reduced would be enough. Thanks, Mike.
Tim, where is the speedo pick up on a KLR? Does changing the final drive gearing affect speedo accuracy?
Robert Cote - Good question Robert. The speedometer cable connects to the front wheel hub, so no, this doesn't affect the speedo accuracy.
Thank you.
I'm glad someone asked I was wondering about that too.
so a 16T front and 42T rear should give you some pretty good mileage on the highway right?
Yes.
Tim, youre a gangster! I love all your vids. Thanks for passing the knowledge. Hope to ride with ya someday
Thanks Bryan! I love this comment. Thank you for watching.
I have the same mileage on my 2012 KLR right now. 19931. Not for long. But weird.
Hello Tim.......... great videos you do........ did you fold down the tabs on the locking washer!??,......... you never mentioned it and it doesn't look like it was.............. if you did I stand corrected. 🙂🇨🇦👋✌️
Jerrythe coo - Yes, to remove the original nut, I did have to fold the tabs down (flatten the washer). When I installed the new Eagle Mike prevailing torque nut, it did not need the washer.
Thanks for the question and for watching.
...or you can simply add a 6th gear!!!
🤣🤣🤣
I'm convinced: other than getting 6'th, having a 16t instead is a good compromise!
Now maybe I missed it but I didn’t see you fold that washer back over the flat on the Nut A newbie might not pick that up very important
my main drive shaft doesnt have bolt at the end, just some retention ring and 2 bolt retainer (both broke and idk where to get new)
Hi, based on your description I'm guessing you are talking about the chain tension bolts at the end of the swing arm.
If so, here's a link to a Rocky Mountain video on how to repair. th-cam.com/video/o0r5QzP2lJ8/w-d-xo.html
They also sell the replacement adjuster bolt kits. If you are missing other parts, check the OEM parts section on www.rockymountainatvmc.com for your bike.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
just enough difference to be worth doing. Any noticeable difference in your fuel economy?
So do you need a longer chain? I can't believe u don't mention that
Good videos. Nice detail. Did you find any difference in fuel mileage? Better because of lower RPM or worse as the motor is working harder? What about upper speeds against a wind? Did the 16T still have the power to push against a strong head wind or did you find that you had the throttle maxed to maintain your speed?
Rigpigboy2003 - I have not noticed a difference in fuel mileage. Power is still similar, just slightly faster speeds at same RPM.
On mine I obtained a 5% reduction in fuel consumption even though rpms reduced by 10%. Acceleration was definitely slower however, so if you commute around the city most of the time, keep the stock gearing. If you’re getting up to highway speeds or on a long distance tour, change the sprocket.
I never hear anybody talking about the rear sprocket change it is about a 3 to 1 ratio difference how come nobody just goes two teeth down in the back for maybe a happy in between gear
Hey Tim quick question, if I upgrade to the 16 tooth would I need to get a different size chain? I just had my chain and sprocket replaced a week ago.
No difference in the chain length when only changing a few teeth. There is enough adjustment available to accommodate. You will be good with the chain you have.
Thanks for watching.
I've got a 14 tooth and run about 4100 rpm at 55 mph. I live in the mountains and 80% of my riding is gravel and trails. If I was a flat lander city boy I'd run a 16 tooth.
Nice! - Thanks for posting the info on the 14T. There have been some questions about that.
Is there any difference if the sprocket is install with the logo facing to the inside?, if you compare OEM with the PD it looks like the thick side goes to the inside, we did that (even though logic says the oposite), but chain aligment is fine. You think that there going to be a future problem with this instalation ? we just installed it... TY. sory to say this, but in the video once to torque the nut you forgot to say that the washer had to be bend to secure the nut...
Did you rebend the washer onto the nut after the torque wrench? I didn't see it in the video, or at least I might have missed it. Very important step, I think.
It is not required to bend the washer over with the prevailing torque nut, but I did just as an extra precaution.
Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
I wish you would have shown how to release the chain tension
loosen the back wheel slide it forward, then you get to re-align and set chain tension when your done.
Last thing that should have been done was to bend the Washer tab back up against the Sprocket Nut .
As it was before .....
Remember flattening it at 5:11 ...
To remove the nut ????
Oops !
I'm thinking about getting one, i use to own a Tengaï back in France, I'm now in Canada and 7200$ for a brand new KLR is a good deal. What about 16 teeth sprocket and 40 on the wheel, do you think it could be too much for the engine?
I'd like to see 43/15 to 40/16.
I just got a klr650. It already has a 16 tooth sprocket conversion. Great for the street but worthless on the trail. Way to tall geared to ride slow trails. I'm going back to the 15 or maybe even a 14. I only ride on the highway to get to the woods to putt around. For that a 16 tooth is way to tall.
Like most people do they spend more time on the road these bike's arnt great on the trail;s to big to heavy etcetcetc like all dual purpose bike's therefore I would even go further and try a 40 tooth on the back as well why not I don't think a 17 tooth sprocket would even fit on the front I don't no maybe that's to much anyway I would try it if possible do they make a 17 tooth
I know this is a 5-year-old video but I thought the holes on the sprocket were for the 90 and older bikes
Correct. ,but can serve dual purpose ,just check what you will be pushing against though..... not if it's the case.
Even if the original chain "fits", isn't the standard practice to use a fresh chain when installing a fresh sprocket, regardless of size?.. chains stretch & wear along with their sprockets
Yes! It's always good to replace both sprockets (drive & driven) and the chain. that is the standard practice.
@@Tim2Wheels thanks, being a KLR guy I subscribed; probably try that mod, been considering that
nice music!
16 front and drop 3 in the back. Might work better.
Thanks for the info Don. I will keep that in mind.
how does that work, because thats what im thinkin
@@WhiteManXRP recommended for highway riding , one tooth change is not enough and is hardly noticeable .
Hi Tim, great videos. Really like your stuff! I installed the rock mtn 16T front and the standard rear sprockets, as well as the 520 X ring primary drive chain they sell. After installing these, I have had significantly more noise coming from the chain. I have already done the doohickey mod and other things, so I am confident I have isolated the problem to something having to do with the "final drive." I installed it the same way you did, and following the manual for reference also.The noise sounds like the chain is slapping something as I accelerate. It's not loose and within spec.. It also sounds like a creaking slapping clicking noise when I corner and accelerate, and when I accelerate on straight-aways. Trying to figure out if I did something wrong, or if the sprocket and chain they sent me are bad.can you let me know if there is anything I should inspect or check to try and figure out what needs to be fixed or replaced on the bike?thanks!
Andrew Lackey - I would check the alignment of the sprockets and chain. It does not take much to cause a noisy ride. You can sometimes tell if the sprockets are showing unusual wear on the sides. If alignment and tension are good, there's not much left.
I hope this helps. Let us know what the problem was when you find out.
Tim2Wheels I tightened the chain and the noise 96% has gone away. The problem is I can't find the harmony between too tight and just loose enough to not damage the chain, and to reduce noise to manageable levels I'll play with it some more with the small bolts on both sides that hold the brackets attaching to the drive shaft bolt
Maybe it's just my bike and the chain I got but I find it difficult to get the drive chain tension just right for light off road riding
If we increase one tooth for the front tooth, is that supposed to increase topspeed or torque?
increasing sprocket size in front, or decreasing rear will improve the top speed. Lower in front or larger in rear will increase torque.
Any info on an increase in MPG?
What about switching the drive (front) sprocket to 14 teeth for city driving?
Shaine MacDonald - I have seen people go to a 14T front sprocket for more low end torque on trails, but it could also work for city riding. Just be aware you will trade off some top-end speed.
Thanks for the question and for watching.
MPG with 16? (just did) now eager to see MPG
What changes have you gotten in economy?
The 16 tooth will also cause the speedometer to read slower than actual speed, correct? So, the 16t should make more of a difference than you showed in the video. Thanks, Tim2Wheels, the videos are great and very helpful.
Grizzly Adams - Actually the speedometer turns on the front wheel hub, so there should be no change to the reading.
thanks for the comment and for watching.
dont forget all klrs speedos are off by 5mph 60mph =55ish
Wanting to grab a klr heard many good things !! I am 5-8 170 lbs will klr be to tall or will I need lowing links ?
Everyone sits a bike a bit different. You may need lowering links to feel comfortable, or a different "low" seat. The KLR can feel top heavy in my opinion. If you can, I recommend you ride one, before buying, to see how it feels to you. As with any bike, it's all about personal preference.
Thanks for watching.
16 is better in the dirt??? Thx Tony
Tony Castro - I would not say the 16 is better than the 15 in dirt. However, it works well for my type of off-road riding. In 1st gear with a 16T, the KLR still has plenty of low-end torque for me. If you feather the clutch when needed, it is not a problem. If you do a lot of climbing, then the 15T (or even a 14T) may be better. The 16T does help on the roads.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
a 14 will give you the torque to get the front wheel up a bit easier to clear logs ect, but you will be holding about 6k rpm doing 65 on the highway.
TheCharillz23 I haven't put my 14T on yet (too skinny, need some shims) but that does not sound right. You should only be around 5K or less at 65. It's only a 7% change, a little over 300 rpm.
No extensions when torquing- you won’t get a an accurate torque. Use a deep socket if you must
I dont have that wrench from the end that lets you know when you got to 72 pounds.... how do I do it without it?
JustThaor - I'm guessing you mean you don't have a torque wrench? If not, Just tighten it as tight as you can. Bending the washer over the nut will lock it in place.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply, luckily I did find someone who has it. Going to follow the video this weekend, wish me luck heh
Thanks for another great video. I have a new klr 650 do you know If I can squeeze a 16t sprocket in on the stock chain or will I need to add a link?
Wade Moulton - Hi Wade, if you are just adding one tooth on the drive (front) sprocket, you can use the stock chain. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Tim2Wheels thank you very much for the fast response. do you have any recommendations for which sprocket to get or who to order it from?
Wade Moulton Checkout Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, they have a good selection and prices. I went with the Primary Drive brand for chain and sprockets. Their products are good quality at a fair price point.
Tim2Wheels thank you for answering all my questions. I really appreciate you taking the time to do so.
i have 17 tooth same chain
What length chain do you recommend with the conversion? Does it differ from stock?
Hi Thomas, Luckily the one extra tooth on the drive sprocket doesn't take up much chain space, so it is the same length as the stock chain. In this case it was a 520 size chain by 106 links (520x106).
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
-Tim
Thank you for the information. Great channel. Keep up the great work and teaching about KLR650s. It helps out a lot.
Just put on the 16 tooth and boy howdy my bikes soooo much better on the freeways here in Texas. Thinking about going up a tooth on my rear sprocket but don't know if it'll have enough oomph.
Go 16 front and 37 back sprocket if you're doing a lot of pavement traveling. You're welcome.
Hey thanks for the info. I've not made changes to the rear sprocket and wondered how it would do. I'll bet going down to 37 on the rear would really help the top-end speed. I'm sure this will be helpful to others here too.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Curious what your RPMs are at highway speeds with that setup.
What do you idle at 70?
Idle is not the accurate question to ask
So let's do the simple math. Changing from a 15 to a 16 is a 6.66% change. So the reduction in rpms at any speed or in any gear will always be 6.66% not 10%. If you were turning 5k at 70 it will now be 4666 rpms, or a 6.66% reduction. Not 4500 rpms. Forget test rides. None are needed. The only time you will have a 5mph difference your motor would have to be spinning at 7500 rpms in fifth gear. 112 mph on a KLR? Good luck.
What is the link to buy the sprocket
The 16 tooth front sprocket is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/2105/Primary-Drive-Front-Sprocket
The Rear sprocket is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/2192/Primary-Drive-Rear-Steel-Sprocket
And the Chain is: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/958/2082/Primary-Drive-520-ORH-Gold-X-Ring-Chain
Thanks
Splined Shaft ....... Easy term .
That's bullshit you've clearly done something to the gearing inside the motor because at 60mph the motor is running at 4.5k rpm not 4k rpm
No, the internal gearbox is completely stock on this bike.
You need a new microphone
This guy lost all credibility when he used a chrome socket on an impact gun.
lol. i sometimes do the same. idgaf but now that i have a proper set of impact sockets and torque gun i dont find myself abusing the chrome stuff as much.
5,OOO rpm on a Single .... Dumb.