Husqvarna 51 Dead Saw Salvage, Amazing how far things can go before they stop!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2016
- This one is a favor to a friend....didn't have a lot of money for a new saw and certainly not to have a shop @ shop rates get this saw up and running. AND he needs a saw for firewood season. SO I saw an opportunity to both put a smile on someone's face AND touch of the subject of repair where there are no parts available, just have to make do with the bare minimums... NOW being who I am I strayed a little into the world of a more compete shop with machining and fabrication capabilities...SO I couldn't put this under the minimalist theme....so I ended up just being yet another Dead Saw Salvage video with a few twists...
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Put wood on the truck quote - it was you!
I was given a 51 last week from à friend,claims his son in law ruined it. Now I know what to look for, Thanx for great video!!!
Hi Walt
I took my dad's old saw that didn't run from carbon build up and scored cylinder and rebuilt a 51 for a grand total of 38$ and about 3 hrs minus the video time. Great!
Another nice rebuild - thanks Walt!
They are great saws to learn on because of their simplicity. Husqvarna's in general seem to be well thought out in how easy they are to work on. Had to laugh at the amount of ring wear, you easily got my 60 thou end gap on a Husqvarna 50 that I worked on beat.
Most saw damaged to "beyond reasonable repair" is self-inflicted
Thanks Walt :) you are the man
just picked up a Husqvarna 44 White top, no spark , cannot what to get into it, thanks for all the time you put into the videos. Good Show!
have been enjoying your videos , started to buy old 90's husqvarnas up in Mich. because Ohio likes stihl chainsaw . keep videos coming thanks!
Enjoyed the video 👍
They are fabulous saws ,, like most Husqies
Tanks are actually the same as on the 254 series. I believe bob has mentioned it in of of the videos.
Even the carburettor side of the cases are so similar that even the locating pin, and 3 bolt holes line up perfectly.
in my opinion the are great long lasting saws. almost build like a pro saw. and when taken care of, the run for a long long time.
but i didnt like the impulse line, the can fail... and husky chargers around $6 for that piece of hose...
Really good video! I'm currently building a 50 for my father since he's tired of lugging hi Homelite XL12 around cutting wood for his shop.
thanks for sharing
Awesome video, Walt! How do you get those mufflers apart? They dont appear to be welded.... are the peened together where the muffler bolt "tubes" come through on the cylinder side?
What was the ring gap you set it too?
Do you know if the 51 has any interchangeable parts with the 61? Thanks for the video and thank you for your time.
No. Totally different chassis.
@@afleetcommand Thanks!
Just curious, did you reuse the partition, impulse seal, intake seal and carburetor gasket? If so, was 1184 used? Thanks, good info!!!
yes and yes
What would you recommend to get just for a project, a 51, or 350 series? Just looking for a fun back up saw project to do with my son.
350
Hey I'm working on a husky 435 with good compression no matter what I do trying tune the saw I cannot get it to run right does that mean that it has bad seals or some thing? Or what that be a carb issue?
Pretty tough to speculate as that is a pretty vague description...:) Those are newer saws, I would start at things like fuel lines/fuel filter/tank vent and spark plugs. Air leak symptom are pretty specific.
Hi Walt,
I was just rewatching this video and was curious what tool that is you used to remove the clutch?
Not trying to be a smart azz....but a Husqvarna clutch tool.
Go on eBay and search for one, and it will be obvious
hi there I'm working on a husqvarna 36 poulan lol it has lots of compression but Ive notieced the crank has end play like you can pull it in and out I can't feel any play back and forth though have you ever come across this is it bad or just common for this kind of cheap saw?
Don't know! I haven't worked on one in a long time.
okay, I got it running I ended up finding out that the little impluse gromet was completly missing and made one up with a rubber fuel line and it runs like a dream. 40 bucks for the saw 3 bucks for the hose and I have a good running saw, I have ordered new gromets but they will be in a week to get them.
What was the deal with the loose clutch at beginning of video ? Broken ? Loose ? Wore-out ? Wrong one ?
They had for some reason stuck a washer in where it didn't belong. Clutch didn't seat where it needed to leaving a space for the drum to slop around....why? I can't even guess. Can't make this stuff up.
The clutch was on backwards too which probably didn't help.
I'm looking forward to using my newly-aquired 51. What bar and chain combination do you prefer for these 51's? Mine came with an 18" 3/8" bar but I've read that when going with a 20" a. 325 works better. Any opinions on that?
Stick with the 18...:) A few tweaks will really improve the power.
Just used it this morning to cut down some sort of junk landscape tree that was too close to the foundation of the house. I noticed (especially when cold) it idles up enough to spin the chain. I'm going to adjust the idle and see if I can get that sorted out.
No other complaints. I'm going to pick up a new chain for it and give it a general cleanup.
Just teak the low speed adjustment.....the one closest to the cylinder.....add a little fuel by turning it out a bit until it idles...
I'm getting a little smoking while running your recommended 32:1 gas/oil mix. Reckon the high needle needs a little bit of leaning out? I ran it for about an hour today and really like this saw. Thanks so much for the recommendations for a smaller companion to my 372XP.
Which chain do you prefer for these saws?
little blue when its cold is fine..if ur using husqvarna xp....u wont c much when u work that saw
The decking was reduced... Is the same calculation for the face transferred to the piece that extends into the block ? The piece that picks up the impulse pressure ??? Like that "Tail?" On the cylinder? What's it's real name? And if your dropping your cylinder face by 20 or 22 mills do you shave the bottom of the ( tail ) too?
Have you ever tried on a one piece... Like in a 142 or a Stihl 025 to shave a bit and then shave a bit of the top of the Bering cap flange to reduce squish? What did you use for the tops of the Bering cap area... I was thinking my drill press with abrasive on old large bit and the jug mounted sideways... You can hit that with your mill? ...right????🤔
I just cut straight across and that included the intake area as well. with saws like the 350"s cutting the bearing cap is a perfectly good way to drop the cylinder. And how the material is removed or by what doesn't matter as long as its even and flat..:)
afleetcommand
,
do you know if a 266 or 61 top end will fit on a husqvarna 51?
no they don't
im full of question haha just one more i promise do you know if the top cover from a 51 or 55 will fit on a 50 i cant find any on ebay
Do you have a pressure-vac tester?
yes
Is That a T540xp in the back split down?
Yup its going to get bearings and seals. Prolly not going to video that though. They are a PITA for me... :)
Would like to see a mod if you end up doing one. Even a video pulling apart bud. I haven't seen the internals yet of that saw. Keep us posted ;)
Im curious if its possible to machine/mill out a piston with slightly taller cap for more squishy lol
Some times you can find pistons from other brand saws with the same bore but different pin locations...:) Stuffing Stihl 52mm pistons in Chinese 52mm Big Bore cylinders for Husqvarna 372's is a "thing" some do. I don't but some do. Might look over at the "Meteor" brand website for pistons. They do list dimensions.
Alright i will do so. In the process of rebuilding this 20 year old poulan again and come to find out that partner 350 and 351 parts will work for my saw sucks its clam shell style home owner but for 55 bucks going from 38mm piston to a 41mm brand knew crank with replaceable wrist pin needle bearing unlike the poulan 2150 2175 and soo on models, has knew bearings and seals knew cylinder and bottem engine pan pretty much everything for 55 bucks idea to try and make it a good power little old poulan for my father to run he really liked this little saw
@@rncboy2 crank
would you recommend using emery cloth on every new ring you install? im rebuilding a jonsered 630 and im wondering if i should use that method instead of buying everything new?
Lightly On the used cylinder of course to break the glaze, but not on "rings" themselves.
@@afleetcommand sorry i typed it wrong lol. i was asking about using emery cloth in every cylinder when you install a new ring? you see alot of guys dumping the older cylinder when its glazed and shinny.
wait and see how bad the vibration is
could hardly tell.....I was suprised
what is SQUISH?
Distance between the piston crown and squish band of the combustion chamber at TDC
th-cam.com/video/Lw-XVE7NAjs/w-d-xo.html
got it ,first time ive ever heard that term, be nice if you would explain, great video!
A flywheel like that eventually will damage its bearings
Maybe. Depends on the saw. Those have 6202's. Folks over analyse stuff like that. That saw was broke as u see for a decade.
Impressive. It's not often I encounter someone who truly understands what it means for an engine to break in. After I"ve installed a freshly rebuilt 520 cu. inch, 6 cylinder, air cooled airplane engine , I tell the pilot to run it hard at first so that the rings can lap in with the cylinder. We tell the pilot to push the engine hard during the first 50 hours. Full throttle as much as possible and never back the throttle off more than 80% for cruising. During this time they burn oil like crazy. We know when an engine is broken in once it stops burning oil. However, if the pilot babys it and takes it easy on his new very, very expensive engine, the rings and cylinder walls will glaze over and the only way to stop the excessive oil burning is to pull the jugs and re-hone the cylinder. We would scrape a penny down the cylinder wall. If the honing scratches are deep enough and at the proper angles the penny will have a shiny spot where it looks like someone run a file over it. When you first said you'd sanded the piston wall I wasn't following you but the idea of putting sanding scratches on a piston in order to hold more oil is brilliant. I recently traded a few rolls of hay for a 1998 Husqvarna 55 Rancher. It was in good shape and ran well but looked pretty rough. Most of the plastic had dried out on the surface and stained with oil. No matter how much you cleaned them they still looked pretty bad. I ended up sanding them down to fresh plastic and painting them with some orange hi temp engine paint I found at Autozone
Zone hoping to get close on the color and to my surprise it was and exact match. You couldn't even see overspray because it matched so well. When I pulled the top end off of this twenty year old saw I was blown away to see what looked like and almost brand new cylinder and piston. You could still see the cross hatch pattern on the cyl. wall. If I had to guess I would say this engine was just barely broken in. Later the previous owner told me he bought it new back in 98 and not long after that a back injury made him switch to oil heating. He only ever used the saw for the occasional severe storm clean up. I did a little cleanup on the ports and deleted the head gasket, modified the muffler and put it all back together. My honing approach is exactly like yours, a little crocus cloth with thatch patterns around 30 degrees. But I didn't measure the squish, but I don't think it was as bad as the 50 you are working on. The base gasket was already so thin that deleting it, I don't think, made a noticeable difference. I can tell that it has very good compression when I start it. I always use the compression relief just to extend the life of the pull start components. It has, on occasion, tried to bite back at me a little when I forget the comp. relief. I cleaned and painted everything to within an inch of its life and put on a new Oregon PowerMatch 18 inch bar with full chisel chain, a wonderful bar but a bit to heavy for my taste. It looked like a brand new saw except for the old stickers. It runs and cuts like a dream. It is by far the most powerful 50cc class saw that I have ever owned. It will idle all day without even a hint of congestion when I open the throttle. Anyway, I would like to thank you for the videos. They have been extremely helpful, especially your work with the Chinese components. My 55 Rancher had the old style snap on air filter without the screw in the middle and they are very hard find. I was able to get a complete air filter assembly from China for only a few dollars. It comes with the screw type backing plate so I can now buy local screw type air filters. Anyway, happy sawing.