Thank you so much!! To anyone struggling with the fan clutch this is what worked for me. I removed one of the 10mm bolts and bolted down my bolt holder. I then put my wrench on and brought the two together using a ratchet strap. The strap got super tight but it broke it loose!
Man I wish there were more tutorials like this for Range Rovers! It would save me alot of trial and error for the more complicated tasks 😂 nothing is simple on these things
I have always used the hammer trick to remove the fan clutch nut, the impact needs to be at 90 degrees of the tool, not inwards towards the nut, it has always worked for me, looking at your video after replacing the idle pulley and water pump to obtain the belt routing diagram, thank you for posting this video, very helpful.
Thank you for your video, I just did waterpump, overflow tank, belts and thermostat. Your videos were indispensable in getting an idea before you start a job. Surprisingly, the most difficult part was routing the long belt correctly. LOL. I had to look five times at the diagram. Again, thank you. Keep up the good work.
I do like how matter of fact your videos are man, it wasn't until I heard it at the end that I realised I was missing the back ground music that accompanied your previous videos :)
@@HazyJay nah man, was a decent enough length. just missed the cheesy BG music to tie it together. if you wonna make a long video, wait till your front ARB, alternator or transfer case need changing. each of them took me about 6 hr :(
Thanks for the great video. I plan to check the tensioners and pulleys and replace if necessary. If the primary belt replacement is not necessary and only the pulleys are replaced, wouldn't it be necessary to remove the fan clutch pulley?
I could see the primary belt was cracked and needed replacement when I looked closely with a light, also my vehicle has 150K miles which is the typical replacement time.
@@HazyJay Ah okay. I just picked up a 2008 RRSC and my AC temp fades after several hours in operation(3 hours). But the next day it'll operate just fine. I am wondering if I have a belt problem or an AC clutch problem that shows up after prolonged use. Slipping or not grabbing...
@@lestoncochran6927 Something like that (cold then warm) makes me think there's water in the AC system. When it runs cold, the water will freeze near the evap valve and the refrigerant circulation is stopped (air turns back to warm), then when the car is turned off it melts again and goes back to normal the next time. You might just try flushing the AC system and refilling it with new refrigerant. Additionally, usually belt slipping causes an ungodly noise under the hood.
Hello Hazy, Thank you for making this great video. I have a Range Rover Sport 2011. Yesterday while I parking the car I noticed a rubber burning smell coming from inside the hood. When I opened it I could see it coming from the serpentine belt. Do you think that replacing the serpentine belt would fix the problem and get rid of the issue, or could it be something else taking into consideration the heavy burning smell and smoke that was coming out? Please let me know if you have a moment. I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance! Kind regards, Marcelo
Seems like something on the secondary belt is stuck or burning up. I had a similar problem and it ended up being the alternator was burning up. I'd look around while the car is idling and see if you can see anything rubbing.
If you haven't already fixed this try opening the command module on the console screen. (TH-cam: "Car type and year" DTC screen access). The video will guide you to a screen mine asks for a 3 digit code (753). In that hidden screen you can see what codes are coming up and also where your electrical power is going to (lights, headlights etc) and will also show you if your alternator is charging your battery. Hope this helps!
Ciao, ho cambiato i 3 gruppi valvola seguendo i tuoi video ma adesso la macchina non si alza del tutto, resta su standard e ad ogni buco sulla strada le sospensioni posteriori sembrano di legno, sono molto rigide, non so cosa fare, tu cosa puoi consigliare?
I have this issue to where I accelerate dint hear it but when im not I hear static and buzzing in my vehicle coming from the speaker on the right passenger side do you have any idea what it can be someone said it can be the belt
If you want, look up your fuses for your audio system, pull the fuse and try it. I found out my parking assist was giving me issues with my key fob. Once I pulled the parking assist the key fob issues stopped. These vehicles are more electrically sensitive the older they get and can sadly lead to a lot of time wasted trying to find these. I have a 2011 RR sport HSE just to let you know. Hope that helps!
Please what is the number of the belt tensioner please Someone help respond quickly , my own old belt cut. I couldn't see the number written on the belt.
@@bassnjeep6537 Yeah I would start with cleaning the throttle body, MAF, and check the air filter first. I had this issue a long time ago and it was just a dirty throttle body not letting any air through at idle.
@@bassnjeep6537 Yeah you just need some sockets and the throttle body cleaner itself. Here's a video of the process since I haven't made one: th-cam.com/video/s9hQVo9M7b0/w-d-xo.html
Hi hazy, got an off related question and wonder if you hlep me out.. Mine is a 2006 rrs hse 4.4. I added 6 litres of oil and when I checked the engine dip stick its 2cm above the max mark. I read on several service forums that the 4.4 needs approx 7.7 litres. I had it parked on even ground while it drained and replaced the oil filter too.. Looks like yours too is a 4.4 Jag motor, how many litres do you normally use on an oil change?
@@HazyJaythanks on getting back. is the oil level on the dipstick at max or above? I dont see any dents on the oil sump to cause the high reading and now wondering if the previous owner replaced the dipstick.
Thank you so much!! To anyone struggling with the fan clutch this is what worked for me. I removed one of the 10mm bolts and bolted down my bolt holder. I then put my wrench on and brought the two together using a ratchet strap. The strap got super tight but it broke it loose!
Man I wish there were more tutorials like this for Range Rovers! It would save me alot of trial and error for the more complicated tasks 😂 nothing is simple on these things
I have always used the hammer trick to remove the fan clutch nut, the impact needs to be at 90 degrees of the tool, not inwards towards the nut, it has always worked for me, looking at your video after replacing the idle pulley and water pump to obtain the belt routing diagram, thank you for posting this video, very helpful.
Thank you for your video, I just did waterpump, overflow tank, belts and thermostat. Your videos were indispensable in getting an idea before you start a job. Surprisingly, the most difficult part was routing the long belt correctly. LOL. I had to look five times at the diagram. Again, thank you. Keep up the good work.
I do like how matter of fact your videos are man, it wasn't until I heard it at the end that I realised I was missing the back ground music that accompanied your previous videos :)
Haha I'll bring the music back for the next one, this one was a bit too long unfortunately
@@HazyJay nah man, was a decent enough length. just missed the cheesy BG music to tie it together. if you wonna make a long video, wait till your front ARB, alternator or transfer case need changing. each of them took me about 6 hr :(
Great video. I’ll be replacing my fan clutch soon.
Bonjour,
Merci beaucoup pour vos tutoriels cela m'aide beaucoup !
pas de problème, je suis content que vous les trouviez utiles!
@@HazyJay Can you explain how to replace the silent blocks of the front stabilizer bar please ?
@@ssirkkriss The bushings? I have a video: th-cam.com/video/zUVetGnx7F8/w-d-xo.html
@@HazyJay Yeah Bushings ! but this video it's for the back ?
@@ssirkkriss This video is for the front 👌
Thanks for the great video.
I plan to check the tensioners and pulleys and replace if necessary.
If the primary belt replacement is not necessary and only the pulleys are replaced, wouldn't it be necessary to remove the fan clutch pulley?
Awesome video, thanks
What prompted you to do this service? AC clutch slipping? or did you anticipate having worn belts?
I could see the primary belt was cracked and needed replacement when I looked closely with a light, also my vehicle has 150K miles which is the typical replacement time.
@@HazyJay Ah okay. I just picked up a 2008 RRSC and my AC temp fades after several hours in operation(3 hours). But the next day it'll operate just fine. I am wondering if I have a belt problem or an AC clutch problem that shows up after prolonged use. Slipping or not grabbing...
@@lestoncochran6927 Something like that (cold then warm) makes me think there's water in the AC system. When it runs cold, the water will freeze near the evap valve and the refrigerant circulation is stopped (air turns back to warm), then when the car is turned off it melts again and goes back to normal the next time. You might just try flushing the AC system and refilling it with new refrigerant. Additionally, usually belt slipping causes an ungodly noise under the hood.
Thanks for the Video
Would be great if someone made a plug and play dual electric fan setup..
Is the tensioner pulley for the fan deep grooved
What runs through the bracket with the bearing? Yours seems to have oil mine was dry inside is that an issue?
Hello Hazy, Thank you for making this great video. I have a Range Rover Sport 2011. Yesterday while I parking the car I noticed a rubber burning smell coming from inside the hood. When I opened it I could see it coming from the serpentine belt. Do you think that replacing the serpentine belt would fix the problem and get rid of the issue, or could it be something else taking into consideration the heavy burning smell and smoke that was coming out? Please let me know if you have a moment. I would really appreciate your advice.
Thank you in advance!
Kind regards,
Marcelo
Seems like something on the secondary belt is stuck or burning up. I had a similar problem and it ended up being the alternator was burning up. I'd look around while the car is idling and see if you can see anything rubbing.
Would it be issue if I turned the engine backwards while changing the fan clutch belt on 2013 RRS?
Wow they made this so much harder then any other car I ever seen
Yeahhhh..... no car can make everything easy haha
2011 rrs hse, the belt design? only hv one tensioner
I changed my belts but I’m still hearing a noise like something is rubbing it has the battery like on o replaced the battery and alternator as well
If you haven't already fixed this try opening the command module on the console screen. (TH-cam: "Car type and year" DTC screen access). The video will guide you to a screen mine asks for a 3 digit code (753).
In that hidden screen you can see what codes are coming up and also where your electrical power is going to (lights, headlights etc) and will also show you if your alternator is charging your battery. Hope this helps!
How long would this job take?
Probably 2 hours if your first time as long as you have all the tools and nothing is stuck
Second time like 1 hr
@@HazyJay normally 498 hours as range rover make it really easy
@@sykcnt8012 the belt replacement will be eternal as will your suffering =(, but the shop will charge the full hour haha
Ciao, ho cambiato i 3 gruppi valvola seguendo i tuoi video ma adesso la macchina non si alza del tutto, resta su standard e ad ogni buco sulla strada le sospensioni posteriori sembrano di legno, sono molto rigide, non so cosa fare, tu cosa puoi consigliare?
I have this issue to where I accelerate dint hear it but when im not I hear static and buzzing in my vehicle coming from the speaker on the right passenger side do you have any idea what it can be someone said it can be the belt
If you want, look up your fuses for your audio system, pull the fuse and try it. I found out my parking assist was giving me issues with my key fob. Once I pulled the parking assist the key fob issues stopped. These vehicles are more electrically sensitive the older they get and can sadly lead to a lot of time wasted trying to find these. I have a 2011 RR sport HSE just to let you know. Hope that helps!
Please what is the number of the belt tensioner please Someone help respond quickly , my own old belt cut. I couldn't see the number written on the belt.
www.roverparts.com/belts-hoses/kits/PQR500330SKB/
Not belt related , but does the 4.4 sport 2009 have a idle air control valve ?
I don't think so, if you have a rough or low idle, you might want to clean the air intake system first (filter, MAF, check the throttle body, etc.)
@@HazyJay yeaa , idles up and down sometimes shutsoff at red lights , done it 2 times so far , and 2 times didnt want to start on the first try
@@bassnjeep6537 Yeah I would start with cleaning the throttle body, MAF, and check the air filter first. I had this issue a long time ago and it was just a dirty throttle body not letting any air through at idle.
@@HazyJay okk cool , pretty easy to take the throttle body off ?? Never dove into the intake system like that lol
@@bassnjeep6537 Yeah you just need some sockets and the throttle body cleaner itself. Here's a video of the process since I haven't made one: th-cam.com/video/s9hQVo9M7b0/w-d-xo.html
Hi hazy, got an off related question and wonder if you hlep me out..
Mine is a 2006 rrs hse 4.4.
I added 6 litres of oil and when I checked the engine dip stick its 2cm above the max mark. I read on several service forums that the 4.4 needs approx 7.7 litres.
I had it parked on even ground while it drained and replaced the oil filter too..
Looks like yours too is a 4.4 Jag motor, how many litres do you normally use on an oil change?
I usually use 8 liters for an oil change. You can try driving it around for 5 minutes and letting it cool down for about an hour, then check again.
@@HazyJaythanks on getting back.
is the oil level on the dipstick at max or above?
I dont see any dents on the oil sump to cause the high reading and now wondering if the previous owner replaced the dipstick.
@@H.Vishnu Yeah it's at max, covering the letters "max".
@@HazyJay Thanks
Everything made by the Bris is just tight, tight, tight!
Pop corners!
What kind of engine ?
4.4l V8 AJ8 NA
Just had my tensioner go fml😊
Oh shi
Just hit that fan clutch sideways lol 😂