Good looking out on the 2 bolts not to remove on the pump. Problem I had was I was unable to remove the fan shroud on my 2011 HSE (Jag). removed 2 pins and 3 bolts. Seems to be 2 pieces. got the smaller one out but then got stuck. Maybe you have to remove the fan.
Excellent video, great job. Love the included mishaps, so it’s not just happening to me 😆 It might help some people to know that the fan nut on the 2.7 Diesel engine and the V8 4.4 petrol is left hand thread as shown in your video, however the V6 4.0 petrol is right hand thread. Getting this wrong and you possibly tighten the fan on for good.
I always look to see if you have new content because your stuff has really helped me. Then i remember, shiiiit Hazy's RRS broke again that's why hes making the vid. They are a pain but also awesome at the same time! Keep going man!
I like to watch your videos to look for things that are bound to come up on my LR3. That one clip you showed in this video of the glowing coolant leak on top of the plastic thermostat housing left of and down from the throttle body. I have that too. What causes it?
If you just replaced the thermostat or disconnected any of the upper hoses, coolant at that spot is likely from spillage during that process. If not, then it's possibly a leak from the thermostat or something around there like the bleed screw.
@@HazyJay Okay, thanks. Not sure of the maintenance history of the cooling system as I got the vehicle recently. Seemed odd to me that there would be coolant above a connection rather than below!
What I would do is clean it off with some water and see if it reaccumulates, if not you're probably good 👍. One time I checked under the hood and the bleed nut by the thermostat was totally broken off and leaking.
Thanks for the video, my 08 Range Rover Sport supercharged 4.2L has failed to have heat inside the vehicle. i can only see 2 bleeding screws. what is the proper bleeding procedure?
I have an LR3 with the same 4.4. The information for bleeding the air after refill is a bit obscure online, but essentially you leave the pressure cap off until the thermostat opens and purges the air? I have an intact bleed screw above the throttle body; what's its function?
It's very cryptic online. From the manual, it states loosen the bleed screw (by throttle body), loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw, fill to upper mark on expansion tank, start and run engine at 2,5000RPM (in park) for 30 seconds, then regular idle for 30 seconds, then repeat rev/idle sequence another 4 times (should take 5 minutes for all 5 cycles), you should see a steady stream of coolant running from the bleed screw, so close this, fill the cooling system keeping coolant at upper mark until steady stream of coolant seen returning to expansion tank, then close that bleed screw. Then install expansion tank cap.
Question for you: Is the Fan Nut a Right Hand thread or a Left Hand thread?? When you loosened the Nut it looks like it's a right Hand thread (I.E. lefty loosey) but when you rotated the Fan Assy, you rotated it to the right ?? That makes it a Left Hand thread. What Am I missing here? YM
Just to be clear...No additional sealant on mating surface for new water pump? Went through this for the tranny pan/filter replacement and should have followed my gut and added thin layer of sealant (like PermaTex) on both sides of the gasket. Just sayin'
It's not mentioned in the repair manual but it's a consideration. I just exchanged the gasket that comes with the coolant pump and didn't add any additional sealant.
Hi, my 2013 RRS engine fan is constantly running. It’s been to two garages, both say they don’t know what’s causing it. REALLY really don’t want to go to Landrover, do you think replacing the water pump will solve this problem?
Hi I'm debating on buying a 2005 L3 v8 se, has an overheating problem after 20 mins any idea what it could be? Purchase price would be $1200, has 187xxx miles not sure ifs it's worth it
Typically either thermostat, water pump, or radiator. The most expensive would be cracked engine or head gasket allowing leak of coolant into combustion chamber. Question is, WHY is it overheating. If the coolant level stays the same at 20 minutes but it overheats it's likely the water pump, thermostat, radiator fan, or an air lock which are relatively cheap/easy to fix and I have videos on these. If the coolant level is dropping and needing replacement at 20 minutes, question is where is it going. If it's just a leak in a hose that's easy (as opposed to a head gasket or engine block crack)
Dude I’ve got a LR3 4.4 and the cooling fan pulley is literally seized onto the bracket that it spins on behind it. I got the bolts out but the pulley is literally stuck on no matter how much pb blaster or hits with a mallet you use on it. Can’t get up behind the pulley because of it’s design and can’t use a big enough gear puller on it without removing the radiator. It would be one thing if I could get penetrating oil where the pulley meets the bracket but it’s basically impossible. Any ideas?
Brother I have a problem and what do you think may be the cause , after changing all my 8 ignition coils and 8 spark plugs plus 4 o2 sensors, I still get issues when I put my 09 in sport mode . please help me
@@HazyJay when it’s on the level 6 sport mode car slows down and engine light blinks but level 1 to 3 sport mode is fine. I wish to drive to you one day to figure it out for me I really love my car and I don’t want it to do on me
@@nicholasbrown982 Don't forget to check the basics, like the air intake filter and the mass air flow sensor, both can be replaced or cleaned for cheap.
Your red/pink antifreeze is likely an OAT (organic acid) antifreeze, but it's hard to say since many types have the same color. If you're unsure, you can either flush the system as much as possible and use the OEM antifreeze, or just use a universal antifreeze which is OK to mix with any antifreeze. I use the universal antifreeze (ethylene glycol).
The repair manual will state 10nm (7 ft lbs) for the "coolant pump bolts" and the "coolant pump pulley retaining bolts", seems light to me but we are bolting onto the engine block.
Good looking out on the 2 bolts not to remove on the pump. Problem I had was I was unable to remove the fan shroud on my 2011 HSE (Jag). removed 2 pins and 3 bolts. Seems to be 2 pieces. got the smaller one out but then got stuck. Maybe you have to remove the fan.
Excellent video, great job. Love the included mishaps, so it’s not just happening to me 😆
It might help some people to know that the fan nut on the 2.7 Diesel engine and the V8 4.4 petrol is left hand thread as shown in your video, however the V6 4.0 petrol is right hand thread. Getting this wrong and you possibly tighten the fan on for good.
I always look to see if you have new content because your stuff has really helped me. Then i remember, shiiiit Hazy's RRS broke again that's why hes making the vid. They are a pain but also awesome at the same time! Keep going man!
Glad I could assist, I went a pretty long stretch without anything major which is pretty remarkable 😅
@@HazyJay it’s not uncommon for the model you and I have “the 4.4” to go up to 275-285 on the dash before
Awesome explanation 👍
I like to watch your videos to look for things that are bound to come up on my LR3. That one clip you showed in this video of the glowing coolant leak on top of the plastic thermostat housing left of and down from the throttle body. I have that too. What causes it?
If you just replaced the thermostat or disconnected any of the upper hoses, coolant at that spot is likely from spillage during that process. If not, then it's possibly a leak from the thermostat or something around there like the bleed screw.
@@HazyJay Okay, thanks. Not sure of the maintenance history of the cooling system as I got the vehicle recently. Seemed odd to me that there would be coolant above a connection rather than below!
What I would do is clean it off with some water and see if it reaccumulates, if not you're probably good 👍. One time I checked under the hood and the bleed nut by the thermostat was totally broken off and leaking.
@@HazyJay Appreciate you, your videos, and your willingness to answer quick questions!
No prob haha, were all in this together 🤙
Never use a metal brush. Also recommend using water pump sealant as just this gasket itself will start leaking again.
What causes the water pump to make noise while the engine is on?
Thanks for the video, my 08 Range Rover Sport supercharged 4.2L has failed to have heat inside the vehicle. i can only see 2 bleeding screws. what is the proper bleeding procedure?
Here you go! file.io/Kf5aYUXKHAE7
I have an LR3 with the same 4.4. The information for bleeding the air after refill is a bit obscure online, but essentially you leave the pressure cap off until the thermostat opens and purges the air? I have an intact bleed screw above the throttle body; what's its function?
It's very cryptic online. From the manual, it states loosen the bleed screw (by throttle body), loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw, fill to upper mark on expansion tank, start and run engine at 2,5000RPM (in park) for 30 seconds, then regular idle for 30 seconds, then repeat rev/idle sequence another 4 times (should take 5 minutes for all 5 cycles), you should see a steady stream of coolant running from the bleed screw, so close this, fill the cooling system keeping coolant at upper mark until steady stream of coolant seen returning to expansion tank, then close that bleed screw. Then install expansion tank cap.
drive.google.com/file/d/1p9XCcVJpbidf_32yl7q63yvmPcvTLdIK/view?usp=sharing
@@HazyJay Thanks for the PDF! It makes sense now.
You should also talk about the part behind the water pump...if melted it will also cause a leak
Hey chief!! Do you have to torque the water pump bolts ? Thanks
Question for you: Is the Fan Nut a Right Hand thread or a Left Hand thread?? When you loosened the Nut it looks like it's a right Hand thread (I.E. lefty loosey) but when you rotated the Fan Assy, you rotated it to the right ?? That makes it a Left Hand thread. What Am I missing here? YM
It's righty-loosey, the leftward movement is me holding the bolts still so the fan doesn't spin when I'm pushing to the right.
So it threads the opposite of a typical nut
Why is their green coolant in the hose at the end of the video?
Hey can you do it with out the Pully holder
how many miles are on your Rover? I have a 2008 HSE with 178k
152K on this one, 2006 RRS HSE 4.4L
@@HazyJay damn good to know, 1 other question, could I email you sometime to bounce ideas about our vehicles?
@@flavorsavher1985 Sure my email is hazyvideo@gmail.com 👌
Just to be clear...No additional sealant on mating surface for new water pump? Went through this for the tranny pan/filter replacement and should have followed my gut
and added thin layer of sealant (like PermaTex) on both sides of the gasket. Just sayin'
It's not mentioned in the repair manual but it's a consideration. I just exchanged the gasket that comes with the coolant pump and didn't add any additional sealant.
Hi, my 2013 RRS engine fan is constantly running. It’s been to two garages, both say they don’t know what’s causing it. REALLY really don’t want to go to Landrover, do you think replacing the water pump will solve this problem?
Does the fan run loudly as soon as you start the car even if the engine is cold? If so, you likely need a new fan clutch.
Hi I'm debating on buying a 2005 L3 v8 se, has an overheating problem after 20 mins any idea what it could be? Purchase price would be $1200, has 187xxx miles not sure ifs it's worth it
Typically either thermostat, water pump, or radiator. The most expensive would be cracked engine or head gasket allowing leak of coolant into combustion chamber. Question is, WHY is it overheating. If the coolant level stays the same at 20 minutes but it overheats it's likely the water pump, thermostat, radiator fan, or an air lock which are relatively cheap/easy to fix and I have videos on these. If the coolant level is dropping and needing replacement at 20 minutes, question is where is it going. If it's just a leak in a hose that's easy (as opposed to a head gasket or engine block crack)
Check the oil filler cap for milky oil. If the oil appears milky, walk away.
Dude I’ve got a LR3 4.4 and the cooling fan pulley is literally seized onto the bracket that it spins on behind it. I got the bolts out but the pulley is literally stuck on no matter how much pb blaster or hits with a mallet you use on it. Can’t get up behind the pulley because of it’s design and can’t use a big enough gear puller on it without removing the radiator. It would be one thing if I could get penetrating oil where the pulley meets the bracket but it’s basically impossible. Any ideas?
Maybe try some heat around the edge where it connects to see if some thermal expansion will cause the rust to crack. You'll need a small blowtorch.
@@HazyJayany specific one? Butane or propane?
Brother I have a problem and what do you think may be the cause , after changing all my 8 ignition coils and 8 spark plugs plus 4 o2 sensors, I still get issues when I put my 09 in sport mode .
please help me
Is there a warning message? What is going on with the vehicle?
@@HazyJay when it’s on the level 6 sport mode car slows down and engine light blinks but level 1 to 3 sport mode is fine. I wish to drive to you one day to figure it out for me I really love my car and I don’t want it to do on me
@@nicholasbrown982 Don't forget to check the basics, like the air intake filter and the mass air flow sensor, both can be replaced or cleaned for cheap.
What coolant do you use on your vehicle? The one that is in my LR3 appears red/pink whereas yours look more yellowish..
Your red/pink antifreeze is likely an OAT (organic acid) antifreeze, but it's hard to say since many types have the same color. If you're unsure, you can either flush the system as much as possible and use the OEM antifreeze, or just use a universal antifreeze which is OK to mix with any antifreeze. I use the universal antifreeze (ethylene glycol).
Like stated universal yellow is ok to use. Works fine
Anyone no the water pump torque settings
The repair manual will state 10nm (7 ft lbs) for the "coolant pump bolts" and the "coolant pump pulley retaining bolts", seems light to me but we are bolting onto the engine block.
@@HazyJay yeh I done torque at that and just gave a little more as seemed light to me 👍
Q; what size wrench were you holding in your Left Hand to loosen the Fan Nut??
YM
36mm fan clutch wrench for the nut, but also need a bolt holder to keep it from spinning: amzn.to/3G4aVlQ
@@HazyJay what size is the bolt holder? is that included in link?
@@garybarrett7753 Yes it's included with the fan clutch wrench on the amazon link