I've been watching a few of these steam videos. I would like another. I did have a 2 cyl Mamod. The smoke stack was the exhaust from the cylinders . The steam pipe ran under the boiler through the flame and would give a little super heating. It didn't have a window just a thumb screw to remove when fill to let air out and get level. The burner was cotton wool you put methylated spirit in. Yeah love another.
You didn't lubricate the steam plate, which also is a rubbing/moving part and needs an oil coating every time it is run! Super little steam engine indeed!
Thanks for the video,I bought a D6 but does not run as fast as your one,I did notice that between the piston and the spring there seems to be steam escaping.I don’t know if this is the cause of the lack of power, I appreciate your help, thank you very much.PS it’s a new D6 right out of the box.
Hi Bernard. It is quite normal for some steam to escape around the spring and piston, which is by there is a drip tray there. The main reason for it to run slow is lack of oil on all moving parts, including both ends of the piston and both sides of the two (black) brackets which support the shaft of the wheel. Have another look at my video and you'll see that steam escapes from both the spring end of the piston and some from the pressure relief valve. Let me know if a little more oil works! Cheers
@@paddyskull Thanks John I will check that out tomorrow,let me ask you one more question I bought a Mandon steam wagon SW1 used,fire it up to day using Mandon fuel tablets,instead of meths that is recommended, that’s not the issue, it’s the leaver as it came with know instructions could you help as I am not familiar with this. Much appreciate your help,thank you.PS Is there an oil that can use that’s not made by Mandon.
@@benny4614 Hi Bernard. I'm afraid I know nothing about the Mamod wagon, so not much help there. Having said that, there should be no issues using the fuel tablets. As far as the oil, you can using any oil at all, even cooking oil would do, because it is simply for lubrication. Good luck with it!
ik this is a older video but would it be possible to disconnect the steam line going to the piston and connect it to a smaller one? im thinking of getting one and seeing if its possible to use it on a steam powered RC boat
Hi David, what a great idea! The steam line has a nut at both the boiler and piston ends, so should be easy enough to remove, so I don't see why not. The actual piston designed is simple and fabrication of a new piston would be fairly easy. Also, it does build up quite a head of steam, so you'd get plenty of running time. The only thing I'm unsure about is how you'd control the pressure up and down if you want variable speed - maybe servo controlled? Good luck and let me know how you get on.
Hi. Because of the different temperatures, I would use two part epoxy resin (Araldite is the most well-known and stocked by Screwfix. Obviously, you'll need to make sure you get a good spread, so that it doesn't leak. Clean of any excess as soon as you put the pieces in place. Let me know if it works, mate.
You can get replacements , even for the M2 screws which can break when overtightened of when very old. Clean the seating for the silicone gasket and place new glass. It's painless and the safer option.
@@FreakyFrisco Hi! That was clear and good you made a succesfull repair. I just wanted to add Wilesco sells glass replacement kits for alle boilers, which don't involve glue or resin. Just the glass, inside and outside gaskets and mentioned M2 nuts and bolts.
Thank you for your excellent video
I've been watching a few of these steam videos. I would like another.
I did have a 2 cyl Mamod.
The smoke stack was the exhaust from the cylinders . The steam pipe ran under the boiler through the flame and would give a little super heating. It didn't have a window just a thumb screw to remove when fill to let air out and get level.
The burner was cotton wool you put methylated spirit in. Yeah love another.
What an excellent video, very well done and explained. Huge thanks.
You didn't lubricate the steam plate, which also is a rubbing/moving part and needs an oil coating every time it is run!
Super little steam engine indeed!
Water goes in easier with whistle open...
I miss the old red-handled valves...
Very cool! I might have to get one!
Thanks for the video,I bought a D6 but does not run as fast as your one,I did notice that between the piston and the spring there seems to be steam escaping.I don’t know if this is the cause of the lack of power, I appreciate your help, thank you very much.PS it’s a new D6 right out of the box.
Hi Bernard. It is quite normal for some steam to escape around the spring and piston, which is by there is a drip tray there. The main reason for it to run slow is lack of oil on all moving parts, including both ends of the piston and both sides of the two (black) brackets which support the shaft of the wheel. Have another look at my video and you'll see that steam escapes from both the spring end of the piston and some from the pressure relief valve. Let me know if a little more oil works! Cheers
@@paddyskull Thanks John I will check that out tomorrow,let me ask you one more question I bought a Mandon steam wagon SW1 used,fire it up to day using Mandon fuel tablets,instead of meths that is recommended, that’s not the issue, it’s the leaver as it came with know instructions could you help as I am not familiar with this.
Much appreciate your help,thank you.PS Is there an oil that can use that’s not made by Mandon.
@@benny4614 Hi Bernard. I'm afraid I know nothing about the Mamod wagon, so not much help there. Having said that, there should be no issues using the fuel tablets. As far as the oil, you can using any oil at all, even cooking oil would do, because it is simply for lubrication. Good luck with it!
ik this is a older video but would it be possible to disconnect the steam line going to the piston and connect it to a smaller one? im thinking of getting one and seeing if its possible to use it on a steam powered RC boat
Hi David, what a great idea! The steam line has a nut at both the boiler and piston ends, so should be easy enough to remove, so I don't see why not. The actual piston designed is simple and fabrication of a new piston would be fairly easy. Also, it does build up quite a head of steam, so you'd get plenty of running time. The only thing I'm unsure about is how you'd control the pressure up and down if you want variable speed - maybe servo controlled? Good luck and let me know how you get on.
someone needs to connect a dc engine and charge a phone with this
Mine is just like that. But 50 years older.
You might not respond to this. But I have one of these and the entire front glass window came off. Do you have any advice on how to repair it?
Hi. Because of the different temperatures, I would use two part epoxy resin (Araldite is the most well-known and stocked by Screwfix. Obviously, you'll need to make sure you get a good spread, so that it doesn't leak. Clean of any excess as soon as you put the pieces in place. Let me know if it works, mate.
@@paddyskull Just tried it out. Works better than it did originally. Thanks mate!
You can get replacements , even for the M2 screws which can break when overtightened of when very old. Clean the seating for the silicone gasket and place new glass. It's painless and the safer option.
@@peytuhr It actually wasn't the screws that popped. It was the glue or epoxy holding the glass panel on
@@FreakyFrisco Hi! That was clear and good you made a succesfull repair. I just wanted to add Wilesco sells glass replacement kits for alle boilers, which don't involve glue or resin. Just the glass, inside and outside gaskets and mentioned M2 nuts and bolts.