Perfect Bandsaw Setup! and Blade Selection.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I take you through how I set up my bandsaw to get perfect straight cuts
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*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line. See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.*
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Hi John! I really like your channel and your approach to woodworking. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
I disagree with you about where to set blade on the wheel. Remember that the wheel is not flat. It's convex, or crowned. This means that the tension on the blade is not the same from the back to the front. There is more tension on that part of the blade that sitting on the crown than on the front or the back of the tire. So when you have the teeth of the blade in front of the crown, they can actually "flap," if you will. Or perhaps a better word is fishtail. And it doesn't matter that the tension is at the wheel not at the table. Putting the gullet of the blade on the crown of the wheel means that the teeth are getting the most tension all the way around. This helps keep them from fishtailing.
Another reason for setting up your blade this way, is that if you always put the gullet on the crown then you never have to change the setup of your guide bushings when you change the blade size. The setup will be the same!
Again, I love your channel. I hope this comment is helpful.
Thank you for giving me the confidence to do mine
Very helpful video John. Thank you.
Good video John and well explained but the position of the blade on the wheel and tension does control the action of the blade in full the guide bearings should not be controlling the blade. Agree 1/2 blades and above are ok centred on the blade but for a 1/4 blade best results will be achieved by centering on the gullet of the blade from my experience.
I would have thought it would be the wider blades,or maybe bandsaws with narrow wheels,really can't see what effect is achieved moving a 1/4 blade slightly on a wide wheel. Unless the wheel has a larger camber?? I don't know I'll have to test this out.
@@JohnMcGrathManInShed the smaller blade is harder to control so bringing the peak tension point on the blade closer to the cutting teeth makes it more controllable, try it out you will be surprised the difference it makes. Hope this helps.
Just seen eire workshops comment about the thinner blades and I can see you could be getting a better grip of the blade with the gullets on the centre of the camber even if only because your practically centering it
You are correct about the tension on the top and bottom wheels. The blade is absolutely fine in the centre, I’d doesn’t need to be to the rear at all!
Bought a hobbyist bandsaw, and have been wary of setting it up and using it. Thanks for your video. I shall be watching it again before sorting mine out.
Glad it was helpful!
A very informative video. I learnt a lot about bandsaws. Well done.
Another good tip, Same as a pillar drill, if you're not using your band saw for a while its always good practice to take the tension off the blade (same as taking the tension of your pillar drill belt) to avoid shaping the blade/belt and give it wobble or vibration when you're using it. definitely extends the life of the blade too and reduces the awful blade snap mid use (I still have never got used to that when it happens and near shi**ing myself).
If you don't have dedicated wax, any car paste wax can work but I usually just leave a good layer of wd40 on it when im finished and just give it a scotchbrite with red or grey when it does get any rust starting.
Matthias wandel and Alex snodgrass have videos that would cover everything you could want with tuning/running a bandsaw. I thought I was up on my bandsaw tuning until I watched alex snodgrass' video and picked up a couple of small things from him on bearing adjustment.
Thanks John for that. Bought a similar sized bandsaw off a mate and it's been lying in the corner waiting to be set up and born again. Funny I was thinking exactly the same thing just before you threw water on the aligning of the teeth on the wheel. Not for the first time. The description of the lower tpi so the gullets clear really makes blade choice easier. Also I dont know if you ever saw it but I saw a vid from someone a good while ago, cant remember who but I think it was an American master craftsman and he was setting the tension of his blade by the pitch as in note produced when he picked it. Think he was looking for C..now that's accurate.
Nice job. Also a good help for features to look for in a new Bandsaw
Really enjoyed the bandsaw set up video.
I see your administer bandsaw has nice easy to use blade guide adjustments for the side and rear bearing adjustments compared to other bandsaw models I have seen. Happy sawing.
Good video tums up 👍
Great video, very informative. Enjoy the cold beer 🍻
Great setup guide John, we'll deserved a thumbs-up.
Much appreciated!
Fantastic tips, John! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video with clear setup directions. Hopefully takes the fear out of setting up a bandsaw for some, did for me. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Yes I agree with you.
Where the blade tracks on the wheel is not important. The important part is setting up the blade guides.
Hi John good video as usual well explained 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
I love my little elu but it is a pain to set up and change the blade. This Axminster model looks easy.
Another great view👍
Nice tips 👍
My setting method is:-
1. Set fence parallel to mitre slot.
2. Check blade to 'bandsaw buddy'.
3. If way out, then slacken table bolts and rotate table to get it close.
4. Align bandsaw buddy to fence by micro adjusting wheel tracking.
With this method, the mitre fence can be used accurately in mitre slot.
I enjoyed this lad, thats a nice saw too bud :) the out take at the end was class lad :P
Nice one John, well explained... Nice saw.
Thanks 👍
Great explanation thanks
Great work like always! Keep it up mate.
Thanks, will do!
Hi John, Thank you for a very clear and simple explanation without any mambo jumbo. I find that when I use a very narrow blade(1/4") as I turn through a rightish curve (about 20mm radius) the blade slips forward out of the side guides. How should I change the adjustments to avoid this? Mike
Great video John!!! :)
Ha! Love the outtake :)
Great video and saved should I ever get the room in my shed and the money to buy a decent one. 😢 . Probably would have made a offer on your old one had I known it was up for sale
I use the gullet centering method as taught by Alex Snodgrass I believe the explanation is that you want the gullet supported by the high point of the wheel He has a greater set up video that explains it
Great video. You checked the blade for square on the side but what about the back?
Hi John, your new bandsaw looks awesome. I own the Record Power BS350S which I think you owned previously? Can I ask if you ever managed to set up that saw to accurately resaw using the fence? I can’t get seem to get the blade and the fence in line with each other. I got a Bandsaw Buddy and that shows that when the fence is in line with the left hand mitre slot it is miles out of alignment with the blade. There doesn’t appear to be enough adjustment to get the fence and blade to align. Thanks, Paul.
Hi Paul I had the Bs300e, you will have to adjust the table if its that far off. You can undo the bolts and adjust it.
Thanks John. I tried a couple of times but today is a new day. I watched a guy on TH-cam with a new table adjustment tool, a mallet. I’ll give that a go. 😀
Hi John, Is that an oxen yoke in the corner by the door? We have just bought two in a Vide Grenier here and they look great once the rusty ironwork is cleaned up a bit. Mike
Hi John, I noticed that with your setup of the back guide it allows the blade to move back so the the gullet moves back between the side guide wheels. Won't this damage the set of the teeth? Mike
Dope video. What is that tent thing over the miter saw?
Its to help with dust extraction, something I made myself
@@JohnMcGrathManInShed looks dope bruh
Great video and lots of info. What wax are you using for the table top? I live in a very humid climate here in Florida USA and all my hand tools and table tops are showing rust. I need it to stop... Can the same wax be used on my hand plans?
Its a machine wax from Axminster it could be used on your hand planes to. I have the same problem I use Protec Tool for my hand planes I'm sure you will get something similar in the States.
If you can get it try Shane skeltons peacock 🦚wax great for wood and metals .
I'm curious about whether it is necessary to check if the miter slot/t-slot is parallel to the blade. Is there an adjustment to rotate the table slightly if the slot goes out of alignment with the blade?
There is an adjustment you can make to the mitre fence similar to the main fence
I hate changing the blade on my Record Power bandsaw. To adjust all the bearings I need THREE, yes THREE diffrent sized allen keys. I do wish the engineers would put a little bit more thought into the design sometimes.
Yes that is annoying
I think I noticed the wheels under the bandsaw
Yeah I got a wheel kit from The Carpentry Store
The bandsaw must be positionned on the edge of the wheel ! ... the teeth must not touch the wheel rubber (th-cam.com/video/16Nhq5swos8/w-d-xo.html)
Sorry, i don't know the term in english but the teeth are not flat and aligned with the band body. so putting the band in the middle of the wheel press the teeth and has tendency to flatten them
Correction.
Step 2. should be - Check FENCE to bandsaw buddy.