Actually,snodgrass said in one of his videos,not to worry about the bottom bearings,once the blade stays on you're good to go! My problem is the blade at one point will move back onto the thrust bearing,so,blade doesn't run consistently without touching the thrust bearing!
5:40 and 6:50 It's neither the tip of the tooth, nor the center of the gullet. Alex Snodgrass, at 7:25 of his video that you reference, says the BOTTOM of the gullet should be in the center of the tire.
Tremendous video. I purchased a band saw about six months ago, set it up per the owner's manual and have struggled to use it effectively. I followed your recommendations and wow, my cuts are so much easier and so much more accurate. Thanks.
I just saw this video for the first time. Great video and teaching preventative maintenance. I have the same bandsaw bolted to the floor and also use the Snodgrass method of setup. It's incredible how accurate the cuts are. I have resawed 11 1/2 wide boards along the width and have the same accuracy as you do with the narrow board. Thanks for the reminder to clean my bandsaw it's definitely due.
Can't agree more. I found the Snodgrass method video a few months ago and used it to tune up my Rikon recently. Totally transformed it!!! As always, thanks for the content.
I always appreciate the quicker videos over the blah, blah ones that take foreeeevvvvvver to get to the point. Oscar Zerk gave us that cool grease fitting design - way back when. Who has construction 2x4s laying around near a nice bandsaw?
It's great to see a setup video with the bandsaw I have. I had never tried setting it up without the table, but that will make it so much easier - and give me a bit of room to clean. Great video - thanks for taking the time to make it!
Jonathan, your content has been super helpful. After buying a Jet 18" bandsaw at an online auction (buyer beware!) I called Jet to obtain an Owners Manual that just could not be found online. I soon discovered why I couldn't find it. When the super helpful Jet tech heard the actual serial number for my JWBS18 he replied "Wow! That one is the old of the old!" Uh oh. So, like I said I watched this video and bounced over to Alex Snodgrass and then to Carter. I quickly realized that a) my bandsaw could be awesome with a few upgrades, b) with your advice combined with his techniques I could start using m new tool safely and reliably, and c) my bandsaw had been modified in a few expedient ways that I needed to address. Keep up the great tune up series and joinery videos! Great stuff!
I don't even have a band saw , but still learned from this video. I followed your video on table saw set up and can't believe the difference it made in the performance. Keep up the great videos.
I saw Alex at the Atlanta Woodworking show this year, great presentation. When testing the rear bearing, he uses the back of his fingers. They're sensitive enough that you just barely push on the blade vs using your finger tip.
Johnathan, the scrap piece to check your blade square is recommended by Alex Snodgrass to be approximately the width of your band saw table, your scrap piece was a bit shorter than that. A piece that covers the whole width of your table would give a more accurate result.
Interested to see you adopting the Snodgrass method. I saw him do this at a woodshed on SW Ontario a few years ago. Worked well for my 12" bandsaw but not at all for the benchtop model I had at the time. Always entertaining to hear people complain that it won't work. It certainly can in my experience.
Also I want to thank you I have turned my Thursdays into tune-up Thursdays. It's much easier if you just plan it out that way thank you have enjoyed your videos
thank you Katz . i have a band saw like yours i put bearings on it and cut logs pear, oak and birch to boards last summer . i also resharpened the blades on the saw with a disk grinder. it did okay took about 20 mins .i have had problems with the blades from grizzly not being true or out of round , bent sigh but most have been okay.
There are so many rabbit holes you can go down with band saw tune ups, but the Snodgrass method really eliminates it all. I used to have all kinds of issues with blade drift until I realized that having the blade centered on the wheel that has a ridge in the center causes the leading edge (the teeth) of the blade to be unsupported and the blade would cut at a slight angle or worse, move side to side. Sounds like a commercial, but the Snodgrass method eliminated all that. Thanks for another great video.
MAH DUDE! Seriously. I just found your channel over the weekend and you’re already improving my life. How did you know I’m getting my bandsaw out of storage this weekend?!?! I was going to look for a good tune up vid for Sunday funday. Now I don’t have to. I have a new favorite woodworking channel. ❤️👍
Thanks a million man. It was the simplest and most instructive tuneup I have ever seen. It helped me a lot with my bandsaw (a Makita LB1200F). It is a small but very good machine. Problema was I had some difficulty for It to work properly and the customer service dos not help much. Thanks again and best wishes.
Oh my God thank you so much for this video. Me and you have the exact same band saw, I always thought it didn't cut very well because of the cheap grizzly. After watching your video and going to Alex Snograss video. I cannot believe the band Saw Now
You can actually regrease sealed bearings by peeling off the seal, pushing grease in and putting the seals back. And a lot of the manufacturers use cheap grease or not enough so it doesn't actually hurt and extends the life of your bearings considerably.
Great video, Jonathan! I just bought my first bandsaw, an old Grizzly 14" model from the early 90's. I have new tires and a couple of other parts coming in. Can't wait to use some of these tips on getting mine set up!
I've owned an older cast iron 14 inch Jet with riser block for nearly 20 years that run perfectly. That tune up is an excellent method. However I've found it the main four mount bolts that attach to the cabinet, the large neck bolt that passes through the riser block aren't re-tightened along with checking/readjusting the drive belt and motor is essential. Theses are by far the very foundation of the bandsaw. And if those are right there will be vibration.
Great video. I've watched Snodgrass video as well and it really looks like a great method. I just got a little 12 inch Craftsman and I intend to take it apart and go through it and do this very process to make sure everything's set up right
Great video, thank you for sharing I do the same set up as well, it really is night and day As maintenance is always cheaper then repair, as well it give you a chance to see if there is anything that will need to be replaced too 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Vibration? Replace the stock belt with a link belt. Makes a huge difference. Instead of bolting the saw down, put hockey pucks under the base. They act like expensive anti vibration feet but are cheap. -Jim
Appreciate this. Ive got some issues going on with the blade not tracking and drifting. I think taking off the table will definitely make it easier to get to the problem. Thanks
Can you demonstrate tuning and setting the blades on a 2 or 3 blade jointer so that they are aligned with the infeed table? That would be greatly appreciated. Really enjoy your videos so keep em coming John!
I used this method to turn a cheap bandsaw into an ok one. But I think you should turn your test piece around not over so your using the same reference face as you would when testing a square. Great video nice and clear and detailed good camera work. Not sure about the on talent though getting his words mixed up a bit.
Great tips! I saw Alex at The Woodworking Show last year; his skill and knowledge are amazing. You seemed to have trouble getting the words out. Are you sleep deprived? Babies will do that.
I'm already a subscriber so I'll comment to help out ;-) Must admit it's been awesome to have the same miter saw, planer and bandsaw so all the tune ups are the EXACT same hahahaha
Great video, but regarding that one thing you said about not worrying about the wheels being coplanar, if your wheels aren't close to coplanar it can absolutely cause problems with this method. When I received my Grizzly 14" its wheels were over 1/8" out of plane with each other which caused any blade smaller than 1/2" to slip off the wheels no matter the amount of adjustment made to the upper wheel. The wheels don't have to be perfectly coplanar, but if they're not close you'll have problems keeping the gullet aligned to the crown of the wheel or even encounter the blade slipping during a cut.
Great video and thank for reminding me to tune up mine. Video suggestion if you haven't already done so I would love a video on fixing blade wobble on a tablesaw.
Really loved your video and will help me vastly improve my bandsaw A joint for your list could be a secret/ hidden mitred dovetail with an ebony or Purple Heart spline
I have gone through the Snodgras method probably 400 times (not kidding) and I still cannot get an evenly thin cut on a wide resaw. I even bought the $200 Resaw King blade and the Carter magfence. All the tools, the best method and still no luck
Jonathan thanks for sharing a suggestion for improvement would be to show how to set the table parallel to the fence, or at least reference Michael Fortune’s FWW article and/or TH-cam on this important topic. Bill Garbus, Arcisan Studio
@@katzmosestools I really like your videos. Not everyone on TH-cam produces a good video. Not so here. I learn a lot and since I'm pretty new at this it's helping me. Thank you.
a well tuned bandsaw can cut a 0.5mm veneer 200x400.. its how i tune my bandsaw so i know it cuts straight and square everytime.. put a 123 block and its all dead square. takes time but easily doable
I see people adjust square on back and front too. I do not see a need as long side to side and the blade in tracking well Side to side gives you a straight cut. Front / back determines which end finishes its cut first. Any other reason to adjust front/ back?
Hi Jonnathan, I have almost the same bandsaw, an european brand holzprofi hbs480. I have the same process to setup the saw as you, so that’s confort me I do the setup right! After few year of use I found the this bandsaw does not really allow large saw blade as they pretend (1.25" max). With a blade like that 1.25" it’s impossible to center the gullet on the wheel. It also lack of tensionning power with this kind of blade. My thinking is a 3/4" blade is a max for a good tension. What is your thinking about that? Something is very anoying on my saw is that the moving arm with the blade guide as it go up or down does not track strait with the blade. So if I have a good guide spacing at 2 inch over the table, it totally wrong at 10 inch over the table. Any advice about that ? I never be able to do a so beautiful cut as you show in this video. It will be a dream. We don’t have blade with skip tooth here, the blade almost all the time some waves in the cut. I can not tell if I can improve something or not.
Hi Jonathan I’m curious what model Grizzly bandsaw are you using? I’m going with a Grizzly this summer . Thank you for the informative video.Just subscribed .
I paused it at 0:09 when I saw the model flash by. It's a Grizzly G0513ANV. I have a different model Grizzly I just picked up a couple months ago that I'm very happy with, as well.
@@robertmcevoy24 For the trunnion, I don't think that's a major consideration. They don't have a lot of stress on them like the column does. That said, I think you can match the rigidity of steel with cast iron up to a point. I suspect Jonathan's G0513ANV (17" steel) and my G0555XH (14" cast iron) have equally rigid columns for the capacities they offer. At some point, you're just creating excessive weight with cast iron, but I don't think we're running into that at 14" or 17", it's more likely just an engineering tradeoff vs. an obstacle.
Great video. What's your opinion on loosening the tension on the blade when you're not going to be using the bandsaw? Does it matter if you leave the blade under tension for long periods? The only reason that I ask is that I remember every now and then to loosen it but always forget to tighten it again before I use the bandsaw the next time. If it doesn't make a difference I'd rather tension it once and then leave it. Thanks.
I never leave it under tension. Well occasionally I forget but it's a good way to ruin a perfectly good blade. All that expansion and contraction is just hell on a blade
I share my shop/garage with my wife's car, so everything is mobile. I've gotten into the habit of looping the power cord around the tension handle when I put it away. It reminds me to (un)tension it every time I [un]plug it.
Yesterday i got myself a new bandsaw and sadly it was already put together wrong way, probably going to spend next week adjusting and replacing cheap and crappy parts, nowadays most of them are really cheaply made
Actually if you follow Alex's method the deepest part (inside edge) of the gullet should be dead center of the wheel, not the edge of the blade as you said.
I know this video is 8 months old so I’m doubting if I will get a response If you put the gullet in the centre of the tire does the size of blade make a difference Looks like you are using a 1/2” blade...what about a larger one ? I have an 18” bandsaw and I have some 1 1/2” blades I was going to use for resaw Do I still put the gullet of such a big blade on centre of the tire?
On my bandsaw if I center the gullets on the belt then the blade goes outside the belt. Too wide blade for the machine you might think, but it's the factory Makita blade.
I've given up hope with my bandsaw. I've spent hours watching tune up/set up videos and I've never been able to have it consistently cut straight, with no drift. Just dirty cutting which I clean up with more reliable tools.
@@katzmosestools I watched that Snodgrass video after yours and I'm excited to see if this method is the key. I'd guess TImber Wolf blades aren't available in the UK, so I'll have to make do with Tuff Saws. Cheers, Jonathan.
Gear Grease: amzn.to/2WyDmUK
Lift Off Adhesive Remover: amzn.to/2wvfUt4
Alex Snodgrass Method: th-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/w-d-xo.html
Truing A Bandsaw Wheel: th-cam.com/video/avPP_zmcvEo/w-d-xo.html
Actually,snodgrass said in one of his videos,not to worry about the bottom bearings,once the blade stays on you're good to go! My problem is the blade at one point will move back onto the thrust bearing,so,blade doesn't run consistently without touching the thrust bearing!
5:40 and 6:50 It's neither the tip of the tooth, nor the center of the gullet. Alex Snodgrass, at 7:25 of his video that you reference, says the BOTTOM of the gullet should be in the center of the tire.
Tremendous video. I purchased a band saw about six months ago, set it up per the owner's manual and have struggled to use it effectively. I followed your recommendations and wow, my cuts are so much easier and so much more accurate. Thanks.
I just saw this video for the first time. Great video and teaching preventative maintenance. I have the same bandsaw bolted to the floor and also use the Snodgrass method of setup. It's incredible how accurate the cuts are. I have resawed 11 1/2 wide boards along the width and have the same accuracy as you do with the narrow board. Thanks for the reminder to clean my bandsaw it's definitely due.
Thanks heaps mate. Will definitely try this tomorrow on my bandsaw. I was having issues tracking the blade but will try your technique. Thanks again
Can't agree more. I found the Snodgrass method video a few months ago and used it to tune up my Rikon recently. Totally transformed it!!! As always, thanks for the content.
I always appreciate the quicker videos over the blah, blah ones that take foreeeevvvvvver to get to the point. Oscar Zerk gave us that cool grease fitting design - way back when. Who has construction 2x4s laying around near a nice bandsaw?
It's great to see a setup video with the bandsaw I have. I had never tried setting it up without the table, but that will make it so much easier - and give me a bit of room to clean. Great video - thanks for taking the time to make it!
Thanks!
Jonathan, your content has been super helpful. After buying a Jet 18" bandsaw at an online auction (buyer beware!) I called Jet to obtain an Owners Manual that just could not be found online. I soon discovered why I couldn't find it. When the super helpful Jet tech heard the actual serial number for my JWBS18 he replied "Wow! That one is the old of the old!" Uh oh. So, like I said I watched this video and bounced over to Alex Snodgrass and then to Carter. I quickly realized that a) my bandsaw could be awesome with a few upgrades, b) with your advice combined with his techniques I could start using m new tool safely and reliably, and c) my bandsaw had been modified in a few expedient ways that I needed to address.
Keep up the great tune up series and joinery videos! Great stuff!
Thanks bud. Try vintagemachinery.org they have lots of good references
Dude! I did this and holy smokes what a difference!!!
I don't even have a band saw , but still learned from this video. I followed your video on table saw set up and can't believe the difference it made in the performance. Keep up the great videos.
I saw Alex at the Atlanta Woodworking show this year, great presentation. When testing the rear bearing, he uses the back of his fingers. They're sensitive enough that you just barely push on the blade vs using your finger tip.
Johnathan, the scrap piece to check your blade square is recommended by Alex Snodgrass to be approximately the width of your band saw table, your scrap piece was a bit shorter than that. A piece that covers the whole width of your table would give a more accurate result.
Filing in woodworking technique...thank you.
I continue to wear my K-M apron with pride.
loving the Tune Up Thursday series, this was excellent. keep em coming!
Interested to see you adopting the Snodgrass method. I saw him do this at a woodshed on SW Ontario a few years ago. Worked well for my 12" bandsaw but not at all for the benchtop model I had at the time. Always entertaining to hear people complain that it won't work. It certainly can in my experience.
Also I want to thank you I have turned my Thursdays into tune-up Thursdays. It's much easier if you just plan it out that way thank you have enjoyed your videos
thank you Katz . i have a band saw like yours i put bearings on it and cut logs pear, oak and birch to boards last summer . i also resharpened the blades on the saw with a disk grinder. it did okay took about 20 mins .i have had problems with the blades from grizzly not being true or out of round , bent sigh but most have been okay.
There are so many rabbit holes you can go down with band saw tune ups, but the Snodgrass method really eliminates it all. I used to have all kinds of issues with blade drift until I realized that having the blade centered on the wheel that has a ridge in the center causes the leading edge (the teeth) of the blade to be unsupported and the blade would cut at a slight angle or worse, move side to side. Sounds like a commercial, but the Snodgrass method eliminated all that. Thanks for another great video.
Great video and very helpful. Setting the gullet to the middle of the wheel helped tremendously.
Zerk fittings for the grease question. :) Nice video Jonathan. Very helpful!
or, just plain ole grease nipples. :-)
Had to watch 30 vids before someone told me not to worry about the back and forth movement of the top wheel….thanks!
I bought a bandsaw used, and it shakes like hell. So hopefully your tips will help me. Loved the video and learned a lot. I like this series!
MAH DUDE! Seriously. I just found your channel over the weekend and you’re already improving my life. How did you know I’m getting my bandsaw out of storage this weekend?!?! I was going to look for a good tune up vid for Sunday funday. Now I don’t have to. I have a new favorite woodworking channel. ❤️👍
Welcome my friend
Thanks a million man. It was the simplest and most instructive tuneup I have ever seen. It helped me a lot with my bandsaw (a Makita LB1200F). It is a small but very good machine. Problema was I had some difficulty for It to work properly and the customer service dos not help much. Thanks again and best wishes.
I love your content your Chanel just gets better and better
Oh my God thank you so much for this video. Me and you have the exact same band saw, I always thought it didn't cut very well because of the cheap grizzly. After watching your video and going to Alex Snograss video. I cannot believe the band Saw Now
Man these are my definitive intros to new tools, the stuff the actual manufacturers should be telling you!
They don't tell you anything, even with good quality tools. They come with half assed manuals.
You can actually regrease sealed bearings by peeling off the seal, pushing grease in and putting the seals back. And a lot of the manufacturers use cheap grease or not enough so it doesn't actually hurt and extends the life of your bearings considerably.
Hello Jonathan, could you talk about the importance of bandsaw blade break in procedure. Thanks for all your video instructions.
Thanks Jonathan for another great video
Now I will be working on my bandsaw this weekend. Thanks for the info Jonathan.
Great video, Jonathan! I just bought my first bandsaw, an old Grizzly 14" model from the early 90's. I have new tires and a couple of other parts coming in. Can't wait to use some of these tips on getting mine set up!
I've owned an older cast iron 14 inch Jet with riser block for nearly 20 years that run perfectly. That tune up is an excellent method. However I've found it the main four mount bolts that attach to the cabinet, the large neck bolt that passes through the riser block aren't re-tightened along with checking/readjusting the drive belt and motor is essential. Theses are by far the very foundation of the bandsaw. And if those are right there will be vibration.
Thank you so much! I have an old 13" delta and this helped immensely. :-) Got a new subscriber
Now I need to go sort my band saw!
I’ve been using the Snodgrass method as well and am getting great results. It will be interesting to see if Will takes up your challenge.
Great tune up video, I found Alex Snodgrass a couple of years ago, been listening ever since, thanks JKM.
Appreciate the tutorial!
Great video. I've watched Snodgrass video as well and it really looks like a great method. I just got a little 12 inch Craftsman and I intend to take it apart and go through it and do this very process to make sure everything's set up right
Great video, thank you for sharing
I do the same set up as well, it really is night and day
As maintenance is always cheaper then repair, as well it give you a chance to see if there is anything that will need to be replaced too
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Vibration? Replace the stock belt with a link belt. Makes a huge difference. Instead of bolting the saw down, put hockey pucks under the base. They act like expensive anti vibration feet but are cheap. -Jim
Great video ! Huge help….
Appreciate this. Ive got some issues going on with the blade not tracking and drifting. I think taking off the table will definitely make it easier to get to the problem. Thanks
Can you demonstrate tuning and setting the blades on a 2 or 3 blade jointer so that they are aligned with the infeed table? That would be greatly appreciated. Really enjoy your videos so keep em coming John!
I meant outfeed table sorry. Thanks
I used this method to turn a cheap bandsaw into an ok one. But I think you should turn your test piece around not over so your using the same reference face as you would when testing a square. Great video nice and clear and detailed good camera work. Not sure about the on talent though getting his words mixed up a bit.
Nice ZING! It's on!
Hahaha got'em
Great info thank you for sharing
Regards
Steve UK London
Great video man, also love the B roll in it! i'm a fan of that and try it in my own videos ( but i'm not as good as you)
*not as good as Marc hahaha. Little tip. Always shoot b-roll in 60p and slow it down by 60% to bring it to 24p
Great tips! I saw Alex at The Woodworking Show last year; his skill and knowledge are amazing.
You seemed to have trouble getting the words out. Are you sleep deprived? Babies will do that.
Bahahaha sometimes my brain goes faster than my tongue
I'm already a subscriber so I'll comment to help out ;-)
Must admit it's been awesome to have the same miter saw, planer and bandsaw so all the tune ups are the EXACT same hahahaha
Lucky dog hahaha
6" Grizzly Jointer with helical head next please lol
I watched with interest and I don't even have a band saw.
Great video, but regarding that one thing you said about not worrying about the wheels being coplanar, if your wheels aren't close to coplanar it can absolutely cause problems with this method. When I received my Grizzly 14" its wheels were over 1/8" out of plane with each other which caused any blade smaller than 1/2" to slip off the wheels no matter the amount of adjustment made to the upper wheel. The wheels don't have to be perfectly coplanar, but if they're not close you'll have problems keeping the gullet aligned to the crown of the wheel or even encounter the blade slipping during a cut.
Great video and thank for reminding me to tune up mine. Video suggestion if you haven't already done so I would love a video on fixing blade wobble on a tablesaw.
Blade wobble from side to side or back ward motion onto thrust bearing?
@@niallchurch2679 side to side
There's no such thing as scrap walnut. Only walnut that you haven't used yet.
Really loved your video and will help me vastly improve my bandsaw
A joint for your list could be a secret/ hidden mitred dovetail with an ebony or Purple Heart spline
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing
I have gone through the Snodgras method probably 400 times (not kidding) and I still cannot get an evenly thin cut on a wide resaw. I even bought the $200 Resaw King blade and the Carter magfence. All the tools, the best method and still no luck
Sounds like you have a bent wheel or drive shaft
Jonathan
thanks for sharing
a suggestion for improvement would be to show how to set the table parallel to the fence, or at least reference Michael Fortune’s FWW article and/or TH-cam on this important topic.
Bill Garbus, Arcisan Studio
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you Jon !
2x4?? Silly Rabbit!! My Scrap IS walnut!!! ;-p Great video as always and GREAT saw!! Same one in my shop!!
Great video. Just need to get rid of my crappy bandsaw and get a better quality one.
For joint of the week do a nejire kumi tsugi (twisted splice)
I'll put it on the list! Actually I already did them. Also known as sunrise dovetails
Another great video! You're a great illustrator.
My drill press might need a tune up... What about that?
I did a whole series on Tune ups including drill press. There's a playlist
@@katzmosestools I really like your videos. Not everyone on TH-cam produces a good video. Not so here. I learn a lot and since I'm pretty new at this it's helping me. Thank you.
a well tuned bandsaw can cut a 0.5mm veneer 200x400.. its how i tune my bandsaw so i know it cuts straight and square everytime.. put a 123 block and its all dead square. takes time but easily doable
What about aligning your table so the fence is aligned to the blade?
I see people adjust square on back and front too. I do not see a need as long side to side and the blade in tracking well Side to side gives you a straight cut. Front / back determines which end finishes its cut first. Any other reason to adjust front/ back?
What was the baking soda and acetone for after you sanded with vinegar/water?
My friend and I were literally just talking about you needing to do a bandsaw video on Wednesday... How did you know!?
Should get fence is square to the blade, too. both up and down and front to back.
Isn't the bottom of the gullet where the blade is supposed to be centered? Oh, you corrected that around 5:40. And at 6:50. :-)
What about the lower wheel.
The blade has to be in the same position than the top one.
Teeth in the middle?
Hi Jonnathan, I have almost the same bandsaw, an european brand holzprofi hbs480. I have the same process to setup the saw as you, so that’s confort me I do the setup right! After few year of use I found the this bandsaw does not really allow large saw blade as they pretend (1.25" max). With a blade like that 1.25" it’s impossible to center the gullet on the wheel. It also lack of tensionning power with this kind of blade. My thinking is a 3/4" blade is a max for a good tension. What is your thinking about that?
Something is very anoying on my saw is that the moving arm with the blade guide as it go up or down does not track strait with the blade. So if I have a good guide spacing at 2 inch over the table, it totally wrong at 10 inch over the table.
Any advice about that ?
I never be able to do a so beautiful cut as you show in this video. It will be a dream. We don’t have blade with skip tooth here, the blade almost all the time some waves in the cut. I can not tell if I can improve something or not.
Do you have this tensioned at an 8? Now I’m thinking my little blade vibration is being I’m under tensioned (4-5).
How about the double cutting band saw
Hi Jonathan I’m curious what model Grizzly bandsaw are you using? I’m going with a Grizzly this summer . Thank you for the informative video.Just subscribed .
I paused it at 0:09 when I saw the model flash by. It's a Grizzly G0513ANV. I have a different model Grizzly I just picked up a couple months ago that I'm very happy with, as well.
Mike Schienle Thanks Mike do you recommend the cast iron trunnions over the steel ?
@@robertmcevoy24 For the trunnion, I don't think that's a major consideration. They don't have a lot of stress on them like the column does. That said, I think you can match the rigidity of steel with cast iron up to a point. I suspect Jonathan's G0513ANV (17" steel) and my G0555XH (14" cast iron) have equally rigid columns for the capacities they offer. At some point, you're just creating excessive weight with cast iron, but I don't think we're running into that at 14" or 17", it's more likely just an engineering tradeoff vs. an obstacle.
Mike Schienle Thank you
Yes
I think it’s harder in my case because I have a Laguna with ceramic guides and you can’t see the slight movement of the bearing as easily
I have the same bandsaw. What are the specs on your blade...name brand, width etc. mine has factory blade still and thinking about upgrading.
Great video. What's your opinion on loosening the tension on the blade when you're not going to be using the bandsaw? Does it matter if you leave the blade under tension for long periods? The only reason that I ask is that I remember every now and then to loosen it but always forget to tighten it again before I use the bandsaw the next time. If it doesn't make a difference I'd rather tension it once and then leave it. Thanks.
I never leave it under tension. Well occasionally I forget but it's a good way to ruin a perfectly good blade. All that expansion and contraction is just hell on a blade
I share my shop/garage with my wife's car, so everything is mobile. I've gotten into the habit of looping the power cord around the tension handle when I put it away. It reminds me to (un)tension it every time I [un]plug it.
@@katzmosestools I think the problem is that it puts a flat spot in the tyre ? Cheers
What is your opinion on the Band Saw Stabilizer offered by Alex Snodgrass?
I was wondering what do you use in the spray bottle to clean the table tops when doing the tuneups.
Vinegar and water
@@katzmosestools Ratio?
Yesterday i got myself a new bandsaw and sadly it was already put together wrong way, probably going to spend next week adjusting and replacing cheap and crappy parts, nowadays most of them are really cheaply made
I note you use thin wall PVC for your vac system. Many people say "static issues". Do you like PVC for a vac as it is cost effective.
Check out my dust collection videos cheers
Will this work for a cheaper table top band saw as in the Wen table top saw?
Yep
Will this method work with a Laguna / ceramic guide system?
Yep
Jonathan Katz-Moses 👍
How do I tune up my screwdrivers?
Actually if you follow Alex's method the deepest part (inside edge) of the gullet should be dead center of the wheel, not the edge of the blade as you said.
snodgrass was on the wood whisperer's channel so if you want to hear it from the horses mouth check out his channel.
I know this video is 8 months old so I’m doubting if I will get a response
If you put the gullet in the centre of the tire does the size of blade make a difference
Looks like you are using a 1/2” blade...what about a larger one ?
I have an 18” bandsaw and I have some 1 1/2” blades I was going to use for resaw
Do I still put the gullet of such a big blade on centre of the tire?
Do you see the point in having small table top bandsaws with only about 80mm (3 and a quarter inches) of resaw capacity?
No I don't
Please could someone explain me what the hole in the front of the table is for? Many thanks.
I mean the hole which is on the right side at the end, with a pin in it.
Keeps the table solid but also allows you to remove blade
Thank you.
Must be all the poms and wallabies hearing blandsaw. Lol
Hey, what kind of rip fence is that? :)
It's a really cool one that grizzly sells. It has two positions and works really well
Do you recommend that Grizzly?
I have it and I love it!
Love it
On my bandsaw if I center the gullets on the belt then the blade goes outside the belt. Too wide blade for the machine you might think, but it's the factory Makita blade.
Can you do a drill press next time?
Honestly probably. I'm running out of tools hahaha
I've given up hope with my bandsaw. I've spent hours watching tune up/set up videos and I've never been able to have it consistently cut straight, with no drift. Just dirty cutting which I clean up with more reliable tools.
Try a timber wolf blade. They're awesome
@@katzmosestools I watched that Snodgrass video after yours and I'm excited to see if this method is the key. I'd guess TImber Wolf blades aren't available in the UK, so I'll have to make do with Tuff Saws. Cheers, Jonathan.
Great video but 1/4" deflection is WAY too much when setting tension. Probably 1/16 is closer.
Confused by talking about "adhesive" at 2:20 and 2:30 ???