I guess if it’s worth doing it’s worth overdoing 😉 Now we, the Internet, demand an explanation to why such an precision is needed. We have invested over 20 min and wants our return 😜
This is such an epic journey that the video should have been titled “The Odyssey”. Very impressive perseverance and experimentation. Thank you for sharing your work.
Your biggest problem is the small diameter threaded shaft. You went through so many iterations and never dealt with the real problem. You need to start with a larger diameter for alignment and then have a shorter threaded shaft for the insert. You have no rigidity with your setups. In the end the result is going to be dependent on the hole in the structure you are pressing the stud into. I do appreciate that you are making something functional. Almost all the other printing videos are making toys (not my thing) or trivial items that are effectively junk.
I was sitting here baffled at why he didn't just do a thick all thread until about an inch and a half up and make an adapter for thinner all thread. I'm sure most of those were nearly square and he could've designed in adjustment to dial it in further.
Hi , I must say you have good knowledge about FDM, and you know perfectly the possibilities of your printers on term of precision or clearance (mostly for threaded part for instance), But I’m using everyday threaded inserts in fdm for technical parts, and what matters the most is perpendicular diving, and heating …. Sorry to say, and I REALLY understand the pleasure and satisfaction of creating fancy 3d devices, and all this system is a bit useless…. Heating your inserts on kitchen flame is definitely no handy solution, and of course a good old soldering iron with proper thin end and temp control is way better (in term of heating,) then , for perpendicularity, I admit this soldering iron is not the best option , you can do it with perfect accuracy but it takes dexterity, or u can use a hacked column drill support holding a soldering iron if needed, we be seen that on TH-cam. All I wanna say is : I d have loved a nice 3d device with bearings and aligned rods but including a soldering iron or why not some thermistor system ( like plastic injection devices ) sometimes you just carry away with conception (and this happens to me all the time ) and forget the main purpose that we concretely expect form a device …. Hope you ll understand my comment, and beside, that’s GREAT 3d job, and I love this experimental journey, and the video with animation and ongoing process on the side, editing is dope 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏾👍🏾 I’ll add that with sla printers you ll get crazy with the precision you can get, for exemple with threading and clearance, even really really small ones … that’s way above FDM
You summed up my thoughts perfectly but in a kinder manner. I felt I watched a beautifully put together design process, which became a little futile and underwhelming by the end. I like this approach of a dedicated device with guided rods, but definitely using a soldering iron with a readily available brass tip for inserts. I hoped to see perhaps even a stopper, for very consistent depth (sometimes you need flush or slightly indented in other occasions). As you said, the manual process isn't difficult to master but a specialised jig would be a quality of life welcome addition :)
it was a problem that already had a massively easy solution. I truly do not understand what all this overdesign was for tbh. It's beautiful but from a utility standpoint there is a lot I just don't get at all. No hate to the maker, it just seems like what happens when we have an idea and get blinders on all the way to whatever solution we're envisioning without stopping to think if the solution was even necesary in teh first place.
@@MS-gn4gl some people enjoy engineering as a hobby. It may happen that someone loves designing so much that the process becomes more important than the result. It has happened to me, I overengineered lots of things, so basically a second round of "simplification" is missing here. But some just enjoy doing it and not for solving a problem, but for the sake of building something.
This is an example of engineering, when what was needed was thoughtful tool design. A mini-solder iron on a rail would have been the sensible solution. Then just make a guide that the insert fits inside to keep it straight as it is pushed into the part. All the threading introduces failure points.
I usually just heat them up with a butane torch, sink it 95% of the way in, push it the final bit with a block aluminum, hold for a couple seconds and it acts as a heat sink setting the insert in place. Always ends up flush and perpendicular to the surface. Also add a few degrees taper to the hole in design.
Ohh my god....dude, all you need is something flat to push it in the last .5mm. you are a masochist to build that in Grasshopper! Folks...this is overkill 1000x.
@@vizionthing If you have a friend with a lathe just ask him, very easy to turn something like this out of brass or some copper aloy, and you can make just the sizes you want.
Suggestion : Don't be overconfident to your additive manufacturing machine. Assembly error occurs even in the CNC machined product! Another suggestion : To secure the straightness, avoid pipe and use polished rigid rod, if you want to save your time and prevent assembly errors.
This is very cool, keep the stand and ditch the threaded rod over the stove and mount a soldering iron with threaded tips and make yourself a set of brass adapters for m2-m6 or buy the set from Amazon (little expensive for what it is). But you lose any time saved by your alignment jig by having to heat the whole thing up over the stove or other flame
Where I work people constantly talk down about 3d printing and rapid prototyping. Saying things like "very expensive toy maker" and "perfect if you only want keychains" or my favorite "YoU cAN sEe tHe LinES." I'd like to see them fork out the money to have custom molds and machine work done for this many revisions in injection molding alone. Then see thier reaction when work like this with enough free time and dedication can be completed within the amount of time of receiving your first outsourced parts.
You either have to go with 1 rail or 3 rails. Also do consider that the thinner the screw is, more likely it is not straight. Also a better option is to find the black screws witch are more tough. The normal screws can be bend easily and do not crack, the black ones if they bend most probably are going to break.
I usually just screw directly in my 3D printed part. It really rarely happens that I need inserts. But THEN your tool or tool ideas really come in handy! Also: really well made and shown! I appreciate and respect your work! Awesome!
I’ve got 20 hrs of Fusion 360 experience, I could totally make that work. Oh wait, nevermind… Super impressive dude. I love your use of plastic threads, cone mounts, quick release toggles.
You need to make your parts holes under sized then ream them to size with a jig made from machined parts like your precision bearings and use linear rails with bearing blocks that way you can add precision to your 3D printed parts
Not at all. He made problems when there were not any. All the mess about with long threaded rods inserted by hand can be solved with a fixed solder iron on a rail. And then use a round metal guide to hold the insert straight as the vertical iron pushes the insert in.
This is the most obsessively insane video I’ve ever seen. I was getting anxious the more I watched. Have you checked if the bolts were even straight? Man when I insert threaded inserts I just eyeball it. This must have taken a crazy amount of time. STL? Hahaha
Must be hard trying to get perfection out of a machine that is imperfect (3D printer). Are you implying that the artillery is more accurate than the ender 3?
Oh! Now I see this design after I bought a dremel toolstand, and modified a bracked to hold my soldering iron for heat thread inserts.. Regardless this is cool, and informative video to help guide me when troubleshooting functional 3d prints.
It's just great to watch the prototyping process and all the iterations to come up with something working at the end. Nice job filming and documenting all this! But I also can't understand why you didn't check other options for sliding bearings or rollers. Your journey would be much less rough. Those cheap linear bearings are notoriously bad and loose, they are even called "bearing with square balls", because the balls inside sometimes look like manually made with hammer. You could go with IGUS polymer bushings or brass embedded graphite sleeves... They are sometimes even cheaper than the linear bearings and work really well. Also those injection molding threaded inserts with only vertical knurling you use are the worst performing of all types. You really would like to check the other types, especially the Ruthex inserts with opposing diagonal knurling, designed specifically for 3D printed parts. Checking all available materials and technologies can make your life as engineer much easier.
The new graphics are excellent. Continue with the great job you are doing. Just let some more time for the subtitles, it is not possible to read them in time.
Well why should you even consider getting the cheapest tabletop press made from stiff metal and a soldering iron, but instead wasting humongous time and energy for a floppy and still far from precise contraption that even does require external heat that's totally uncontrolled and may burn your material while inserting ( yes there's such thing as too hot) But you sure had fun and learned alot along the way. So that kinda makes up for it. I sat thru it No rant!
Awesome video. Which 3D printer and filament you use? And do you use same 3D printer for flexible material printing and what deliver filament you use ?
Thanks for sharing the design process, i saw this device in one of your previous videos but couldn't find it anywhere else that explains why. I'm suprised to see you using Grasshopper to design somrthing like this where i would think a program like Solidworks is better suited. Do you have an architecture or industrial design background?
I have architecture background, started to use grasshopper for industrial design cause didnt know about solidworks at that time, later just got used to it
@@ussadesign you have more control over parameters with Grasshopper than SolidWorks (not that it’s always necessary). The internal representation in SolidWorks is quite influenced by the order of elements created and even though it’s parametric it isn’t necessarily cohesive. In the training for SolidWorks, Inventor, OnShape, ALibre, etc presents the notion of ordering composition for convenience in modification. But the training doesn’t explain the internal representation of parametric elements and you have to discover it by experience. Whereas in Grasshopper, well, it’s right there in front of you.
Seems like your printer isn't printing very square, make sure all your belts are tensioned well and run some calibration test to really dial everything in, if you haven't already.
I don't even get what I am looking at, the first 12 minutes look like you are just measuring the tolerance of that long center bolt as it threads through the plastic?
Use to be a metal lathe and a Bridgeport mill was all you needed to make this. It would have been made out a variety of materials. But the first thing to do before making anything is to draw it out on paper. Then you can start making the parts you need. Chances are you might be able to purchase something with all the precision you need that you can adapt to what you need to do. Time is money. My guess is that you passed away a month or two with your little toy.
Hey since it looks like you're from the 50s, the "new paper" is called 3d design which you can see him using in the video a program called Rhino. Lets you edit and change the design before you even start making something! 3d printing + 3d design is less barrier to entry than 4-20 grand on a bridgeport and a lathe. Remember when you were 5 and there was still no color television? I bet you guys got so much shit for people not understanding why you wouldn't want to just listen to the radio shows and good ole black and white tv when color tv came out.
Hm, if that insertion threaded rod is long, I would have fixed it with two mount points, one pivot and a higher construction with screws to fine tune. And make the rest as stiff as possible. The the larger the distance between the two points fixing the threaded rod the more easy it is to tune.
The thread of the plastic part is too big so steel bolt be eccentric(you should watch thread camera lens parts ).you have to print 0.1mm small lace or make it by CNC machine it with metal materials
Umm... Nice work I guess? But... You invented a press. First seen in 1440(ish... records are bit unclear). And it doesn't have a heat element? Unlike every foil stamp or heated embossing press, which also have been around for quite a while. I hope you can focus your considerable passion and talents on problems that haven't already been solved; heaven knows there are many to choose from. Best wishes.
Man... That was excruciatingly painful to watch... Despite your designs being such a joy to look at you _really_ need to learn when to cut your losses... That design is not only total overkill but absolutely counterproductive as seen by how little it does to get you a better result while being such a time sink to doing even just one thread ( _while_ tying you to an open flame nonetheless ). Just heat the darn insert up using an adjustable Soldering Iron ( I use a *MiniWare TS80P* _Smart Soldering Iron_ with a dedicated Tip for Heatset Insertion ) until you're like ¾ into the material and then finish the final ¼ with a flat piece of metal like a metal ruler, a knife, or - what I do - a large stubby Hex Driver. The flat portion of whatever you're using will not only automatically stop you from pushing it below surface level but will also immediately flatten any plastic potentially getting pushed up and to top it all of automatically align it straight ( and+ also act as a Heatsink depending in the material and thickness )
Wow while watching this, I was getting anxious with the amount of time you were spending trying to solve this problem. At the end, the result is not that great. I guess that is part of prototyping. All the work you do, may end up going to waste. This is why products are so expensive because so much design goes into getting the final product right. So much is wasted along the way.
Упёртый парень с неограниченным бюджетом денег и времени. В этом случае дешевле было бы к токарю обратиться. Выточил бы ему приблуду на веки вечные, тютелька в тютельку. Но за старание и качество видео, лайк жирнющий.
Overkill. So uneeded. Firstly, they make special tips for you solder iron that you can use to heat and push in the inserts by hand. Secondly, using regular hex nuts is way easier and better.
I guess if it’s worth doing it’s worth overdoing 😉 Now we, the Internet, demand an explanation to why such an precision is needed. We have invested over 20 min and wants our return 😜
Agreed :D. I was like, am I watching a makeshift drill press or what is this lol
This is such an epic journey that the video should have been titled “The Odyssey”. Very impressive perseverance and experimentation. Thank you for sharing your work.
Your biggest problem is the small diameter threaded shaft. You went through so many iterations and never dealt with the real problem. You need to start with a larger diameter for alignment and then have a shorter threaded shaft for the insert. You have no rigidity with your setups. In the end the result is going to be dependent on the hole in the structure you are pressing the stud into.
I do appreciate that you are making something functional. Almost all the other printing videos are making toys (not my thing) or trivial items that are effectively junk.
I was sitting here baffled at why he didn't just do a thick all thread until about an inch and a half up and make an adapter for thinner all thread. I'm sure most of those were nearly square and he could've designed in adjustment to dial it in further.
TKS lord! 🙏 Im not the only one thinking this 😅
it's great to see how a modular design can allow parts to be combined in unexpected ways
Hi , I must say you have good knowledge about FDM, and you know perfectly the possibilities of your printers on term of precision or clearance (mostly for threaded part for instance), But I’m using everyday threaded inserts in fdm for technical parts, and what matters the most is perpendicular diving, and heating …. Sorry to say, and I REALLY understand the pleasure and satisfaction of creating fancy 3d devices, and all this system is a bit useless…. Heating your inserts on kitchen flame is definitely no handy solution, and of course a good old soldering iron with proper thin end and temp control is way better (in term of heating,) then , for perpendicularity, I admit this soldering iron is not the best option , you can do it with perfect accuracy but it takes dexterity, or u can use a hacked column drill support holding a soldering iron if needed, we be seen that on TH-cam. All I wanna say is : I d have loved a nice 3d device with bearings and aligned rods but including a soldering iron or why not some thermistor system ( like plastic injection devices ) sometimes you just carry away with conception (and this happens to me all the time ) and forget the main purpose that we concretely expect form a device …. Hope you ll understand my comment, and beside, that’s GREAT 3d job, and I love this experimental journey, and the video with animation and ongoing process on the side, editing is dope 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏾👍🏾
I’ll add that with sla printers you ll get crazy with the precision you can get, for exemple with threading and clearance, even really really small ones … that’s way above FDM
You summed up my thoughts perfectly but in a kinder manner. I felt I watched a beautifully put together design process, which became a little futile and underwhelming by the end. I like this approach of a dedicated device with guided rods, but definitely using a soldering iron with a readily available brass tip for inserts. I hoped to see perhaps even a stopper, for very consistent depth (sometimes you need flush or slightly indented in other occasions).
As you said, the manual process isn't difficult to master but a specialised jig would be a quality of life welcome addition :)
it was a problem that already had a massively easy solution. I truly do not understand what all this overdesign was for tbh. It's beautiful but from a utility standpoint there is a lot I just don't get at all.
No hate to the maker, it just seems like what happens when we have an idea and get blinders on all the way to whatever solution we're envisioning without stopping to think if the solution was even necesary in teh first place.
@@MS-gn4gl spot on. I suppose we're all a little guilty of that at some point :)
@@MS-gn4gl some people enjoy engineering as a hobby. It may happen that someone loves designing so much that the process becomes more important than the result. It has happened to me, I overengineered lots of things, so basically a second round of "simplification" is missing here. But some just enjoy doing it and not for solving a problem, but for the sake of building something.
This is an example of engineering,
when what was needed was thoughtful tool design. A mini-solder iron on a rail would have been the sensible solution. Then just make a guide that the insert fits inside to keep it straight as it is pushed into the part. All the threading introduces failure points.
I usually just heat them up with a butane torch, sink it 95% of the way in, push it the final bit with a block aluminum, hold for a couple seconds and it acts as a heat sink setting the insert in place. Always ends up flush and perpendicular to the surface. Also add a few degrees taper to the hole in design.
Ohh my god....dude, all you need is something flat to push it in the last .5mm. you are a masochist to build that in Grasshopper! Folks...this is overkill 1000x.
Use your basic design and just mount a soldering iron with a special heat insert tip you can get on Amazon.
What do you search for?
@@machineenvyllc437 Heat-set insert tips. But if someone got a lathe then turning it is pretty simple and fast.
I cannot believe the price they are selling these for !
@@vizionthing If you have a friend with a lathe just ask him, very easy to turn something like this out of brass or some copper aloy, and you can make just the sizes you want.
Suggestion : Don't be overconfident to your additive manufacturing machine. Assembly error occurs even in the CNC machined product!
Another suggestion : To secure the straightness, avoid pipe and use polished rigid rod, if you want to save your time and prevent assembly errors.
This is very cool, keep the stand and ditch the threaded rod over the stove and mount a soldering iron with threaded tips and make yourself a set of brass adapters for m2-m6 or buy the set from Amazon (little expensive for what it is). But you lose any time saved by your alignment jig by having to heat the whole thing up over the stove or other flame
Where I work people constantly talk down about 3d printing and rapid prototyping. Saying things like "very expensive toy maker" and "perfect if you only want keychains" or my favorite "YoU cAN sEe tHe LinES." I'd like to see them fork out the money to have custom molds and machine work done for this many revisions in injection molding alone. Then see thier reaction when work like this with enough free time and dedication can be completed within the amount of time of receiving your first outsourced parts.
You either have to go with 1 rail or 3 rails.
Also do consider that the thinner the screw is, more likely it is not straight. Also a better option is to find the black screws witch are more tough. The normal screws can be bend easily and do not crack, the black ones if they bend most probably are going to break.
Great to see the prototyping process. Really inspires me to design and iterate more, thanks for this!
Over engineering at its finest!😃
Bravo!
I don’t really know what I’ve just watched but I watched it
that's an interesting one, I figured for myself that I can just use a vertical stand for soldering iron
I usually just screw directly in my 3D printed part. It really rarely happens that I need inserts.
But THEN your tool or tool ideas really come in handy!
Also: really well made and shown!
I appreciate and respect your work!
Awesome!
It would be great to see a bit of explination on what worked/didn't work in each iteration.
I’ve got 20 hrs of Fusion 360 experience, I could totally make that work. Oh wait, nevermind…
Super impressive dude. I love your use of plastic threads, cone mounts, quick release toggles.
This new graphics about design changes are awesome! Wow, this enhances your videos so much!
Impressive perseverance, but a waste of plastic and time when you just go and line it up by eye anyway
Rhino is the best 3d design software! Haven't messed with Grasshopper that much though looks very complicated
The end of X-axis have some Eccentric Nut that holding the position of the pom wheel, try tweak it to solve the wobble issue.
Absolutely Phenomenal Design!
As a perfectionist, i cringe when people just use a soldering iron and their hands! This is much more "my style" !
But it requires 3 axis stabilization. It's still bad.
Very impressive and exactly what I am in need of right now. Thank you for taking me on this awesome journey!
Ohhhh good! I (and I know other folks) have been asking for this video!
The production quality is great, but you should consider adding some narration to what you're doing
You need to make your parts holes under sized then ream them to size with a jig made from machined parts like your precision bearings and use linear rails with bearing blocks that way you can add precision to your 3D printed parts
I really hope you are recycling most of these part you don't need anymore? In recycling I mean back into spools of filament for reuse.
Next - dedicated insert heater using hotend parts, its time for precision temperature control!
Awesome video. Really appreciate seeing all the attempts and design modifications.
The problem is with the long threaded screw, try harden injection pins seated into a sleeve
Damn good at product designing
Not at all. He made problems when there were not any. All the mess about with long threaded rods inserted by hand can be solved with a fixed solder iron on a rail. And then use a round metal guide to hold the insert straight as the vertical iron pushes the insert in.
You fixed the sh@t out of this non problem :p
It is more convenient if the nut can be heated locally, reducing the gas furnace switch.
This is the most obsessively insane video I’ve ever seen. I was getting anxious the more I watched. Have you checked if the bolts were even straight? Man when I insert threaded inserts I just eyeball it. This must have taken a crazy amount of time. STL? Hahaha
Must be hard trying to get perfection out of a machine that is imperfect (3D printer). Are you implying that the artillery is more accurate than the ender 3?
I… I liked the video - but I will NEVER use something like this myself for brass inserts. It takes A LOT of time. I prefer doing it by hand.
Oh! Now I see this design after I bought a dremel toolstand, and modified a bracked to hold my soldering iron for heat thread inserts.. Regardless this is cool, and informative video to help guide me when troubleshooting functional 3d prints.
A built in induction heater on the base would heat the inserts in seconds right before they get pressed in.
You've got a great se of tools there. I would love to clean up your Gh for you! Gave me jitters looking at the spaghetti!
Insane perseverance and beautiful work. Very inspiring.
It's just great to watch the prototyping process and all the iterations to come up with something working at the end. Nice job filming and documenting all this! But I also can't understand why you didn't check other options for sliding bearings or rollers. Your journey would be much less rough. Those cheap linear bearings are notoriously bad and loose, they are even called "bearing with square balls", because the balls inside sometimes look like manually made with hammer. You could go with IGUS polymer bushings or brass embedded graphite sleeves... They are sometimes even cheaper than the linear bearings and work really well. Also those injection molding threaded inserts with only vertical knurling you use are the worst performing of all types. You really would like to check the other types, especially the Ruthex inserts with opposing diagonal knurling, designed specifically for 3D printed parts. Checking all available materials and technologies can make your life as engineer much easier.
The new graphics are excellent. Continue with the great job you are doing. Just let some more time for the subtitles, it is not possible to read them in time.
Well why should you even consider getting the cheapest tabletop press made from stiff metal and a soldering iron, but instead wasting humongous time and energy for a floppy and still far from precise contraption that even does require external heat that's totally uncontrolled and may burn your material while inserting ( yes there's such thing as too hot)
But you sure had fun and learned alot along the way. So that kinda makes up for it. I sat thru it
No rant!
What software were you using on right at 0:20
I think its called Grasshopper. I found that its bundled with Rhino 6.
Do you often need to put in an insert at the bottom of a deeply recessed hole without access from the opposite side?
Awesome video. Which 3D printer and filament you use? And do you use same 3D printer for flexible material printing and what deliver filament you use ?
Thanks for sharing the design process, i saw this device in one of your previous videos but couldn't find it anywhere else that explains why. I'm suprised to see you using Grasshopper to design somrthing like this where i would think a program like Solidworks is better suited. Do you have an architecture or industrial design background?
I have architecture background, started to use grasshopper for industrial design cause didnt know about solidworks at that time, later just got used to it
@@ussadesign you have more control over parameters with Grasshopper than SolidWorks (not that it’s always necessary). The internal representation in SolidWorks is quite influenced by the order of elements created and even though it’s parametric it isn’t necessarily cohesive. In the training for SolidWorks, Inventor, OnShape, ALibre, etc presents the notion of ordering composition for convenience in modification. But the training doesn’t explain the internal representation of parametric elements and you have to discover it by experience. Whereas in Grasshopper, well, it’s right there in front of you.
Seems like your printer isn't printing very square, make sure all your belts are tensioned well and run some calibration test to really dial everything in, if you haven't already.
Very cool project but seems like a solution in search of a problem.
No one noticed how complex that Grasshopper script was?
Kudos for you persistance :-)
What software are you using to design them?
Where do you get all of your metal hardware from? I assume it isn't Home Despot...
I don't even get what I am looking at, the first 12 minutes look like you are just measuring the tolerance of that long center bolt as it threads through the plastic?
when the r&d guy is paid by the hour
Use to be a metal lathe and a Bridgeport mill was all you needed to make this. It would have been made out a variety of materials. But the first thing to do before making anything is to draw it out on paper. Then you can start making the parts you need. Chances are you might be able to purchase something with all the precision you need that you can adapt to what you need to do. Time is money. My guess is that you passed away a month or two with your little toy.
Hey since it looks like you're from the 50s, the "new paper" is called 3d design which you can see him using in the video a program called Rhino. Lets you edit and change the design before you even start making something! 3d printing + 3d design is less barrier to entry than 4-20 grand on a bridgeport and a lathe.
Remember when you were 5 and there was still no color television? I bet you guys got so much shit for people not understanding why you wouldn't want to just listen to the radio shows and good ole black and white tv when color tv came out.
Hm, if that insertion threaded rod is long, I would have fixed it with two mount points, one pivot and a higher construction with screws to fine tune. And make the rest as stiff as possible. The the larger the distance between the two points fixing the threaded rod the more easy it is to tune.
And the soundtrack is good !
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Nice, but a soldering iron works well too.
Wow that was a huge investment in the unnecessary.
loved the process!
Mini drill press + soldering iron
no heat?
17:28 I use kitchen gas
Hello, is there a bill of material somewhere? I can't find it in the project folder nor in this video. Thank you
I found the file in the diagrams folder. Sorry :-)
Only need an induction heater for the inserts and all-in-one !!!!!
The thread of the plastic part is too big so steel bolt be eccentric(you should watch thread camera lens parts ).you have to print 0.1mm small lace or make it by CNC machine it with metal materials
Are these heatset inserts? If so how are you warming them up?
In 0:20 what software are you using in the right side of the picture?
I'll keep that as a good example of over engineering. When I started doing projects like that I also tend to over think things. Now I Just K.I.S
Which plugins do you use for grasshopper?
only grasshopper itself
What CAD software is this? Looks intriguing!
rhino 3d with plugin called grasshopper www.rhino3d.com/6/new/grasshopper/
How to make simple things difficult.
This is probably been asked a thousand times but I can't find the answer anywhere. What is the design tool he's using?
Rhino 3d with grasshopper plugin
pretty cool..but sadly my parts are so diffrent.. non of those would help :D
What are you doing ?
what is that flow chart program you're using?
How is the pull strength vs a heat set insert?
ill just go with my soldering iron!
Where do you source the long threaded inserts?
I want to learn how to do this.... Anyone know where to start? I have the same printer
Как же я мечтаю тоже подобным заниматься дни напролет. ) А приходится делать неинтересную работу в офисе...
What CAD software are you using?
this is what having extra money leads to
32 iterations 😳 Just leaves the question why.
Noice! 👏🏼
the one around 20:30 works best i see compact and does the job rest to bulky and complicated...
Are you pressing into playdo???
Talk about over thinking it!
So smart!
Why did you use so long rod?
brilliant.
Amazing
Umm... Nice work I guess? But... You invented a press. First seen in 1440(ish... records are bit unclear). And it doesn't have a heat element? Unlike every foil stamp or heated embossing press, which also have been around for quite a while. I hope you can focus your considerable passion and talents on problems that haven't already been solved; heaven knows there are many to choose from. Best wishes.
Man... That was excruciatingly painful to watch... Despite your designs being such a joy to look at you _really_ need to learn when to cut your losses... That design is not only total overkill but absolutely counterproductive as seen by how little it does to get you a better result while being such a time sink to doing even just one thread ( _while_ tying you to an open flame nonetheless ).
Just heat the darn insert up using an adjustable Soldering Iron ( I use a *MiniWare TS80P* _Smart Soldering Iron_ with a dedicated Tip for Heatset Insertion ) until you're like ¾ into the material and then finish the final ¼ with a flat piece of metal like a metal ruler, a knife, or - what I do - a large stubby Hex Driver. The flat portion of whatever you're using will not only automatically stop you from pushing it below surface level but will also immediately flatten any plastic potentially getting pushed up and to top it all of automatically align it straight ( and+ also act as a Heatsink depending in the material and thickness )
Wow while watching this, I was getting anxious with the amount of time you were spending trying to solve this problem. At the end, the result is not that great. I guess that is part of prototyping. All the work you do, may end up going to waste. This is why products are so expensive because so much design goes into getting the final product right. So much is wasted along the way.
Упёртый парень с неограниченным бюджетом денег и времени. В этом случае дешевле было бы к токарю обратиться.
Выточил бы ему приблуду на веки вечные, тютелька в тютельку. Но за старание и качество видео, лайк жирнющий.
Overkill. So uneeded. Firstly, they make special tips for you solder iron that you can use to heat and push in the inserts by hand. Secondly, using regular hex nuts is way easier and better.
Your printer is printing skewed parts your axes are not perpendicular with each other